How to improve TPU print quality on Bambu Lab X1 Carbon
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- Опубліковано 26 чер 2024
- This video is about the bumpy start with my new Bambu Lab X1 Carbon. More specifically, poor printing results with TPU 95A HF from Bambu. After a period of research and some tests, I was able to solve the problem satisfactorily.
00:00 Intro
00:54 About my previous 3D printer
01:52 My new Bambu Lab X1C
03:20 Frustration with the first project
07:19 Solution
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Bambu Lab Wiki - Manual Bed Leveling / Manual Bed Tramming
wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/manual-bed-leveling
Print Profile for TPU from printables.com
www.printables.com/de/@floriangreco
Dimensional Calibration Tool v9
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1982686
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GAME CHANGING! I was having stringy mess issues with Bambu TPU 95A HF. I even dried it, no luck. Until I watched your video. Thank you!
Your .3mf template worked perfectly. Thanks for saving me dozens of hours!
Tpu needs to print slow and at a temp about 215 to 220 i find 215 the best, all so if using a smooth build plate use glue stick if a textured build plate is used just make sure its clean with ipa and retractions should be .5 to .8 and cooling should be 30% to 40% not 100% and im telling you this because i print about 5 rolls of TPU a week and i use Sain Smart TPU its by far the best.
thanks for the tips getting my p1s soon and im new to 3d printing so im absorbing as much info as i can until it arrives and i can start tinkering! Finding the 3d print community is probably one of the most helpful ive ever encountered!
Thanks for the advices, i definitly will try these settings the next time 👍
Dude this seems to have been the solution to my TPU issues! So happy the print is finally looking as it should. Thanks for the awesome content.
got my sub, thank you for all your hard work!
Great video. Printing TPU is (was?) always a hassle, so you video helps to look at the right parameters. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, I just discovered your channel after researching tpu printing. I was really starting to despair, all my tests were horrible. I'm just starting a test with your profile and I don't know what to say, except thank you very much !!!!
I'm only at the beginning of my printing but the rendering is simply incredible compared to before.
You've earned a nice like and a new subscriber!
Thanks again
You don't need a profile from printables. "Generic-TPU" is part of Bambu Studio, you can activate it in the general filament section. It all depends on the volumetric speed, which is set to 3,2 for the Generic TPU profile. This setting overrides the values of the printing speeds, so there is no need to adjust the speed settings seperately. I use this profile all the time for my TPU 95 from 3D-Jake.
Thanks for the hint. I almost thought that it works like this, since a corresponding notice is displayed in Bamboo Studio when setting the maximum volumetric speed. But I wasn't sure.
Thanks for the great episode. I'm about to try TPU on my P1S. I already had a lot of trouble printing abs on my printer using the stock settings. I'm new to 3D printing so this is a great help! Subcribed!
I'm glad to hear that the content helped you =)
I printed tpu on your printer with zero issues, stock unit and settings
Thanks a lot, this really helped me out. Making a very simple gasket 0.6mm thickness, from 26 min to just 18 min blowed my mind, with slower settings... ?? Cheers from Sweden
Excellent, tried it on my P1S and it gave amazing result. :) Printed some tires for my sons toy.
I'm glad to hear - thanks!
great vid and info . Thank you for sharing
You're welcome 😊
Danke für die Erklärung. Habe gerade genau das gleich Probleme. Ich werde das mal testen.
TPU has been the biggest problem i have had with 3D printing. I'm new to it and have a good concept now with most filaments, But TPU was still not working with me. Thank you for this video it has helped me understand TPU and get it to work on my Bambu X1 Carbon. Thank you thank you thank you.
Thank you very much for your feedback. I'm extremely happy to hear if the video helped you =)
Enjoyed the video. I actually started out with quite good TPU prints, and wondered why everyone else had issues. But I had downloaded a profile and was using that. It was fairly fast, with 140mm/s outer walls and I was using the 12mm/s3 profile. However, I had also almost immediately installed the aftermarket high flow head from aliexpress. At some point, I took that off, and my TPU prints started under extruding and failing. In search of a middle ground, I did the flow rate testing and played with higher temps. I found I could do a flow rate of 8mm/s3 if I upped the temp to 260. The head can still flow much more than that, but I believe the issue with TPU becomes cooling on overhangs.
You probably have higher expectations than me, but I think you could go just a little higher on your speeds and still get good results. I've been so impressed that I can print TPU at the speeds my old bed slinger would print PLA. And the time is soo much shorter because of the travel speed.
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience. I definitely will try to increase the speed settings by using your suggested values!
@@creativemakerat Just an update. I've settled my settings a tad bit lower. Quality vs speed, my settings are 240 degrees and 7mm/s3. Also, I've found that if you run too slow with higher heat, you will get bubbles. That's why I started coming down from 260. It was fine for faster stuff, but if the model was small and it slowed down to keep the layer time above 8 seconds, it got too slow. Upping the minimum speed from 10 to 15mm/s helped that, but then I started seeing just how low temp I could go and still achieve a good speed. 240 and 7 are those settings.
@@rcrdps8144 many thanks for the infos!
Best advice for TPU is to print it slow. I've done a lot of TPU prints for various projects and never got it to print very fast.
I could not get the TPU to work at all for a couple of months. I did a firmware update about a week ago and tried again with the TPU and got a great result. I guess they may have fixed something.
That's good to know. Due to time constraints, I haven't had my printer in use for several weeks. Let's see what the next firmware update can do 😉
I'm using a P1 and a combination that works pretty well for me is Sunlu TPU with the Generic TPU profile - combined with the drying that you've already mentioned in your video. In general I can say that the Sunlu / Jayo brand works pretty well with the general profiles
Thanks for the tip, I'll get a roll to test too.
Thank you for the video! The profile you mention on Printables eliminated my stringing problems so it's worth the extra print time. Have you tried to successfully print tpu 85A?
Unfortunately I have no experience with this.
Somehow bambu lab printers bring back old hearsay about tpu… It does not need to be printed slow or with slow volumetric values. Bambu lab printers can print tpu fast but you need to lower the tension on the extruder which needs to be modded for it to be easy. I printed well over 100kg tpu and print it at 25mm3/s. You also need to have as little friction as you can for the extruder when pulling the filament. Also tpu likes to build up an over pressure in the nozzle so one needs to usually run really high values to compensate that. I have not bothered with tpu on the bambu printer cause I have bigger printers printing tpu faster. So can’t say for sure how fast the bambu printer can print tpu. All I’m saying is that I know it should be able to do it way faster.
Gutes Video, gerne mehr davon :)!
TPU muss man wirklich sehr langsam drucken, das ist wie Honig.
Danke fürs Feedback!
I forgot print with the door open or the glass lid off just like PLA Filament.
Seems like you had used the TPU HF profile for normal TPU? Because in Bambu Studio the normal profile is also set up to less than 4mm^3/s for the standard TPU 95A and the 12mm^3/s are for the modified TPU HF. I had 0 problems with the TPU HF I had recently gotten and the default profile.
At least "TPU 95A HF" is printed on the filament roll (and it's also the only roll of TPU I own). If Bambu didn't wind up the wrong filament, then it should actually be a "high flow" TPU 😉
Thank you for sharing. I have been experiencing problems with my new X1C and I am going crazy. I can find good settings for it. Could you please share your settings for PETG? Thank you.
Sorry, i never used PETG on my X1 so far
I was getting some stringing when printing with Overture High Speed TPU. I turned off the part fan and no more stringing.
I would not have expected this. I would have thought that there would be more stringing since the material remains soft. Thank you for the info!
No way your first use case is exactly the same as mine haha! I am making a multimaterial plug that fixes the sewer smell in my boiler room. Good stuff :)
Im experimenting with print in place seal ring at the moment and im testing the bonding of ASA and TPU when printed together. Sad the AMS wont run TPU. I dont even want to try and the clog it.
Haha, what a coincidence. On the other hand, nobody likes a bad smell ;-). But im curious whether you managed to combine ASA and TPU directly in one print? This would be super helpful for further projects.
I read somewhere that you can apparently also load the TPU 95A HF in the AMS, as it is not quite as soft as "standard" TPU. But I don't know the source anymore. In any case, I would be interested in your experiences! Many thanks in advance =)
@@creativemakerat I just made a test print a couple of days ago and the adhesion is surprisingly strong and good!
I made an assembly in solidworks of two 20mm high and 20mm diameter cylinders and placed a 2mm sandwich piece of TPU in between (also D=20mm). Defined all materials In orca slicer ASA/TPU/ASA.
You will get an error message when mixing TPU and ASA.
You can get around that Error by setting filament type of the TPU to ASA aswell. Since the actual TPU sandwich part is not affected by bed temperature (in my example) i set that to the same values as my ASA filament, so i dont have to cool or heat the bed at the switching points (Which would hurt the ASA's bed adhesion). Nozzle temperature switched over automatically like in any normal multi material print.
Actually printing with these settings was VERY VERY VERY annoying tho!
So for anyone actually wanting to try this method here is a quickl rundown of what you need to do. (Bambulab X1C in my example)
You have to disable the AMS, pause the print in the slicer at the exact material switch, use the touch controls to drive the tool had to a comfortable place or the poop chute. Actuate the cutting lever on the print head by hand, use the controls of the extruder to unfeed the ASA until you can pull it out, switch the spool and refeed the TPU all manually. Heads up, I even had to do a manual flush with pla and 290°C first. Otherwise my 95A TPU wasnt stiff enought to force out the remaining ASA residue in the nozzle. Give it a try with a simple part like i did, it works and might be a start to a really cool specialised technique :) At this moment while not having TPU AMS capability i only recomment "sandwich" like prints where there is a solid ASA and then a solid layer of TPU and so forth, like my test print. Having to switch like this over and over again because of a complex contour on a part (printing an O-ring only on the circumference on a part for example) would be a total nightmare since it took me a good 5-10 min of labour until everything was clean and done per material switch.
I hope some AMS compatible TPU material comes out or the community comes up with a better AMS feeder that doesnt bind up with TPU.
@@Asynchronous- thank you so much for sharing your experiences and the detailed explanations.
Hi, do you got any Problems with TPU getting clogged in the Extruder? I'm currently running overture 95A TPU (the most basic TPU I know ;D) on my P1S and it seems to work fine. But bigger prints stopped working after a bit, because the Extruder got clogged.
As for my research the problem should be retraction settings. For example, if you use Z-Hop (often more problematic, even for firm Filaments) the TPU is too often retracted and is going to get clogged very likely.
Using non crossing Infill patterns such as Gyroid shall also help.
Also you're right with speed for quality. Slower is better for TPU. Currently I'm at 1,5 - 2mm Cubic Vol. Flow and the print quality is alright.
Knowing this, I'll tweak my settings in the slicer and I'll report if that helped.
Otherwise great Video, thank you.
Grüße, Keks.
Hi! Till now i never had any problems with clogging. But on the other hand, i never printed "something big" with TPU.
In any case, thank you very much for the tip and your experiences.
I'm curious to see wether you can optimize the settings.
Thank you also for the nice feedback 🙂
@@creativemakerat I got some results now:
I actually had a clogged Extruder again. As I found out the main problem for me is actually heatcreep. Because I dislike the chamber fan turning the printer in to a Jet, I turned the fan off with the Custom GCode. Back to our topic: I do print with the door open, with 1,8 cubic milimeter vol. flow, Gyroid infill and WITHOUT Z-hop. The results are pretty good so far, without any problems with my printer.
However my parts had some strange artefacts, looking a lot like underextrusion, mostly on sharp edges. For that problem I turned off "slow down for overhangs" and the problem is gone.
Gruß, Keks.
I have been using the Bambu A95 HF TPU for several months and I have never needed to lower the speed of the stock TPU HF profile.. I only have to adjust the retraction..
Are you sure you have TPU HF? and Buy a PEI sheet..
Thanks for the information. Yes, it is definitely a 95HF filament. Maybe just changing the retraction is enough. What value do you recommend here? I haven't used a PEI plate yet - with or without glue? Thank you!
PEI sheet , clean with hot water and dish soaps , set retraction to 2 or 2.2 if you have P1S , 1.8 for x1c , volumetric speed at 8 , default is 12 but too fast for some object
I printed a bracelet for a smartwatch, made of TPU. At the first attempt, perfect....
But wrong color....
Bought new TPU.
Same model, same settings, same hardness.... other color....
But it is much much harder.
TPU is simply strange. 🙄
Thanks! I'm awaiting my x1 right now and have been searching for anything regarding flexible printing on this machine. I have a full roll of 85A NinjaTek ninjaflex I truly hope to be successful with.
TLDR: Print slower. Set volumetric speed to 2.5 mm3 (instead of the default 12mm3).
I also had to figure this out by myself. Though, im still able to print TPU on 150$ Ender 3 with 10$ direct drive upgrade ~7mm3/s with far better quality than in Bambu with 2.5mm3/s. That printer is just not for TPU.
I too am new to 3D printing and have a P1S. I can not seem to dial in printing ASA or PC. Any suggestions?
To be honest, I haven't used ASA filament yet. But I have a new role at home that I'm going to try out now. I put the roll in the dryer. According to the recommendation, it should be dried at 65° for at least 4 hours. I will start printing this evening. My filament is not from Bambu, it is from ERYONE - but I will use the default settings for the first try. I will then let you know my results.
What exactly are the problems you are having? Poor quality (stringing, ozzing) or poor dimensional accuracy? Have you checked out the guide from Bambu: wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/common-print-quality-problem
use polymer asa. I've been using it for months now and prints come out super clean. Now they have a preset for polymaker, comes out better. Just dry it first and get an air scrubber.
The strange of it all is I've been able to print with these filaments on my AnkerMakr M5C with an enclosure with no problems.
It seems no matter how much I tweak the settings it will lay down the first layer fine and then turn into spaghetti. also no matter what I set the temps for the nozzle and the bed it always show on the device screen a lower temp and no matter how much I try to change it, it reverts back to a lower temp.
@@mitchellbernstein42 which build plate are you using? Bambu offers a special high temperature plate: eu.store.bambulab.com/en-at/products/bambu-high-temperature-plate?variant=43719748157659
Their textured PEI plate is also recommended, and should offer better adhesion than the engineering plate.
Bambu support tickets are the worst. My x1 I think was damaged in transport because it can’t print on parts of the plate without the belts failing. I’ve now been trying to talk to support for a return for two weeks. They are the least helpful people of all time and I’ve just been manually fixing it every way I can but it still can’t print fast and can’t print PAHT at all which is what I freakin bought it for
To be honest, the answer came in an acceptable time and was also very comprehensive and friendly. Unfortunately, I still couldn't solve the problem at the time 😅
Ah yes, the "wbdvfdaslfgaldgh" setting. I know exactly which one that is.
If you're gonna present a video in English, make it ALL English ffs