Although I'm reviewing the top-end X1C, Bambu has two other printers that are significantly less expensive. The P1S and P1P are just as fast and easy to use as the X1C, but with a few corners cut to save price. Many hobbyists--especially those who don't print more exotic filaments like ABS and carbon nylon--won't notice the difference. These are affiliate links.... Shop the Bambu X1C: shrsl.com/45i1o Shop the Bambu P1S: shrsl.com/45i1z Shop the Bambu P1P: shrsl.com/45i28 If you're at the $300-ish price point on a printer, the Bambu printers are simply out of reach. But bear in mind that by the time you finish upgrading that $300 printer, you might have afforded a P1P, which will unquestionably give faster, easier, better results. If you're in the $500 and up price point, there is a good chance this is the printer you should buy.
Keep in mind that in all practical reality, you're probably not gonna upgrade a $300 printer much anymore unless it's a passion project. The upgrade project printers are now $100-150. You can get a Creality Ender 3 V2 for $100 from Microcenter or say a Voxelab Aquila X2 on sale for $150. At $250ish the Sovol SV06 and the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro have almost all the common upgrades people would do to the upgrade project printer - all metal hot end, PEI build plates, auto-bed leveling, better part cooling, direct drive extruder. If you upgrade these, it's gonna be to add Octoprint or go to klipper, and you're talking usually adding an SBC of some kind, more part cooling, and maybe a higher flow hot end to go faster. You're still nowhere near $600 probably doing that. $300-350ish gets you the same kind of printer but tricked out with Klipper out of the box with high flow hot end and stronger part cooling for faster speeds that while they won't meet the speeds of Corexy printers like the Bambu, they're faster than without Klipper. Models like this would be the Sovol Sv07 and the Elegoo Neptune 4. Let's be honest... if you're buying one of those four printers, you're probably not going to try "upgrading it" to be comparable to a bambu because it's not practical to convert it cost and time effectively to corexy. Buyers who want corexy are virtually all going to be buying a printer that already is corexy or they're building something like a voron. One other note: almost no one IMO should consider a P1P with the P1S available. There's well more than $100 in value in the P1S over the P1P between the enclosure, the added auxilary part cooling fan that's $30, plus filtration in the enclosure. I dunno... maybe if you're buying a fleet of them for a farm, but normal consumers? Just get the P1S over the P1P.
I just bought a P1P - it is hands down the best filament based 3D printer I've used to date. Other than changing what filament to use via the bambu slicer, I've made zero changes to any other setting, and I haven't had a failed print yet. That also includes TPU! Completely blown away. No doubt that Bambu has come the closest I've seen to a true press a button and it works type printer. Very satisfied with the purchase! I've also ordered the 4 color AMS and the $150 P1P->P1S upgrade kit. If anyone out there is on the fence about the brand in general or whether to get a P1S or P1P, I wholeheartedly recommend the P1S.
This is one of the best videos on the X1C I have seen. I learned more from you than any previous videos I’ve watched. I’m looking to get an X1C probably this summer. Thank you and greetings from Farragut!
I got the x1c in February... I've printed so much stuff for friends and friends of friends for "give me whatever you feel it's worth" payment... My x1c paid itself by now!!! Even friends with printers of their own ask me to print stuff for them cause the quality is so good!!! I mostly print petg... I'm about to get into TPU now...
i got one x1C too and it prints ultra amazing with TPU. Just set the limiter in the to 2mm^3 and your print will be crisp and super precise. TPU is not a filament that likes to be printed fast
Great video - I wanted to note one thing that might be a consideration for FPV people - that AMS can't do TPU (at least as per Bambu) so you are limited to single filament for that. If you only print TPU, save the cost of the AMS.
id avoid it in general unless you have a serious need for it. swapping filaments is quick and easy with this printer anyways and the AMS causes more issues than the printer itself.
@@drkastenbrot That is a very interesting take. I have the X1C and almost at a year of use with the AMS. I have gone through thousands of filament loads, retractions and swaps and it has been fine with general maintenance. So I would look at a printer without an AMS a downgrade. The AMS has a bunch of other features other than multicolor though. There is a TPU alternative that works fine with the AMS if you dry it right then it absorbs moisture and softens.(you can dunk in in water too speed up the process) It's called sttpu. Prints like PLA (80D hardness pla is typically 83D) and softens into a TPU consistency(65A). As with anything YMMV.
@@drkastenbrot my ams has messed up probably oh… 10 times in a year, the overwhelming majority of those issues were filaments breaking, being malformed and clogging in PTFE tubes or in the feeder, or filament reals that were too light at the end of the roll. The overwhelming majority of the time the AMS been perfectly reliable.
Slight correction. The ams can be upgraded to 16 filaments. It has many many other features. Getting the basic stuff out of the way multi color, multi materials with similar filaments, It can be used for breakaway or soluble supports It's great for pla to petg print/supports It can be used in run out mode. That means it will switch to the next roll if you are running out of filament so you can use up nearly spend rolls. You can use 4KG of filament at a time The AMS doubles as a (non heated) drybox with desiccant it has a humidity sensor so you have a rough idea how saturated the AMS is. (green, yellow red) You dont have to touch filament at all which makes printing seamless from printing locally or remotely. Downsides Do not use abrasives or softer materials like tpu but sttpu is an alternative to general tpu.
[4:30] In my experience of ~5000 hours of printing with the X1C those 1st layer failures are a result of a dirty plate resulting in poor bed adhesion. Maybe an idea to give your plates a good clean. Additionally, the lidar doesn't always catch 1st layer failures, adjusting the detection sensitivity can help here also. All in all, I'm super happy with the X1C and really appreciate your content!
Thanks to Julian Onde from www.noozle3d.com/ for participating in this video! His years of experience with 3D printing and the Prusa Mk3 specifically were really valuable in giving perspective on the Bambu printers!
Been running 15 Prusa i3Mk3s in a school lab for almost 4 years now. Seriously considering replacing them with Bambu's. I definitely do feel some affinity for Prusa and their open source machines, but the speed on the Bambu's is excellent. It is also a bit of a pain to order internationally with my school. I will say that some of my Prusa's have over 900 days of print time on them and 15km of filament printed so we've certainly gotten our money out of them. Thanks for the video.
@@muddymaker3721 Yeah I hear you on that. I'm going through and basically rebuilding all of them right now. The nice thing is that I actually *can* rebuild them, can easily get parts, etc. I'm reprinting a lot of the parts around the X axis carriage in higher temperature plastics and am hoping that will help with some melting issues we've had when large blobs form due to print detachment. The other big question is that I sometimes have over 100 students all with 24/7 access to the printers, and as you can imagine they take a fair amount of (unintentional) abuse. I'm actually a bit worried about all the features on the Bambus since in my situation that is more points of failure. I suppose in the end, it is great as a user that the technology continues to improve. Really that's a win for all of us regardless of what printer we choose.
I'm 3 years into my Prusa MK3S+ and it's a serious workhorse. It is easy to use and RELIABLE. At this point, wild unicorns could not drag me away from it.
Great video. Should have my X1C in a few days. Can't wait. I currently have the Prusa MK3 with the MMU, and it has always been hit or miss with the MMU, But it is a pretty awesome printer. Prusa Is really really great for a beginner, especially if they get the kit so you have to build the printer. It's a valuable experience for sure. And I won't even talk about the PITA Ender 3 S1 Plus. Thanks for the review.
I've got the P1P and it came with the Bambu Dual Sided Textured PEI Plate and I get excellent first layer bed adhesion! Also i noticed if you print on Ludacris mode on the thin tight areas the print comes out better looking. I also noticed that if a print kinda messes up a little then the next time you print the same print it comes out better as if the printer knows what it did wrong the first time! I love this P1P! Thanks JB Cheers!
25:38 what are those thick rectangles under bambu P1Ps on the shelf? Are they concrete blocks? Is there anything else between the printers and these blocks?
Been running a few X1C's from the day one preorders, two of which are fully insulated and dedicated to PA6-CF no issues aside from normal things you run into with any printer. they are amazing machines but not a fan of how it handles multimaterial prints, these will remain my primary printers for most orders but got a 5 extruder Prusia XL shipping soon that i'm excited to get my hands on! they have been a total game changer though, one X1C will replace the output of 3 bed slingers and if space is a issue then clearly 4 printers is better then 12. the speed makes it much more viable to do rapid prototyping when you can litterlly get a test part off the unit in a 1/3 of the time.
For multimaterial, a mutlti-head printer is really best. Then you don't have to do purge towers and waste a ton of filament. But they're out of the price range of most hobbyists.
The one I got from a "pro" friend, he asked me not to share bc it's the basis for his business. My Bambu contact says he's working on a new TPU profile and I'll share it when it's ready.
This could be just me, in the UK, but the Ender 3 S1 currently retails on amazon for £186 ($235) (that's what I paid for it) and so far I cannot fault it. Print quality is great, the print time (with a little bit of tinkering) is quite acceptable, and if you're not dead set on printing ABS, there's no need for an enclosure. Sure - it wont be as fast, but if you're doing this as more of a business, then getting 5 of them + 5 Raspberry Pi 4's + nearly 15kgs of filament, and investing just a bit of time into the setup seems like the better deal to get started mass printing.
Thank you for this. I am a noon at looking at printers and have been learning towards this X1C but the price is right up there but then most if not all are saying this is the printer to buy. So I am saving hard to get one. lol
Josua, just little correction ... P1P is working with AMS without any issues, there is also now P1S that is upgraded version with side panels and other stuff, like fans ... and it is also working with AMS. P1P is basically budjet frendly Bambu lab printer that can be upgraded to some way ( I think that upgrade kit from P1P to P1S is about 160$ or something like that). What you can maybe also try to show in other YT videos is how carbon filled filaments are maybe ok for printing some parts for drone ? And welcome to Bambu lab printer owner club :D happy printing with it.
Great review, can I print ASA and Carbon in this? I build automotive parts and I am having a huge PITA time printing ASA, it warps on every printer I try. Also, the P1P isn't smaller, it's the same exact size, it just doesn't have the enclosure or the screen. :)
I know I’m a bit late to this party - have a quick question. I’m good printing off existing models, from Thingyverse….. but how do you go about designing your own parts? What is a good piece of software? Is a 3D scanner required, and any other info along those lines - would be most appreciated. Thanks
A tip for using glue stick - after applying wipe it with a damp cloth - it'll dilute, thin and evenly spread the glue improving adhesion and bottom surface quality. It'll look like the glue has gone leaving the build plate wet, but it'll soon dry leaving a really thin residue of glue.
One mistake, the Bambu P1P does support the ANS system. I am running both right now! Great value, love it. It is my seventh 3D printer. By far the best of all (one was a Prusa).
WOW! I am quite shocked with the overhang at 13:21, WOW just WOW! My ghetto printer can't do that, it always sag. Impressive! Plus 20mins benchy! Really impressive!
At 7 mins you can see the outer wall speed set to 200 mm/s. That's fast. My Creality CR-10S Pro is maxed at (I think) 180. Never tried it though. Plus the rest goes well over 300 and 400 mm/s.
Regarding the print bed, its funny Ive got a CEL Robox from like 2016 that I'm still using, its got maybe 1200Hrs of printing time on it and I have NEVER had a single print detach from the print bed during printing. I don't use any sort of adhesive, I just clean it with IPA from time to time. When the print finishes and the bed cools down, the part detaches by itself. It looks like a sort brown fiberglass like what old PCBs used to look like. I'm convinced now its the ideal build plate material. Anyway great review Joshua, I want this printer!
I ordered the k1 over the p1p since bambu required a network connection to run. Waiting for its arrival, complete new world for me and still debating on what slicer and if fusion360 is still the popular choice, possible updated video from your 3d printing playlist coming? 👍
Great video and thanks for all the info. I'm a newbee at this 3D printing stuff and trying to decide what brand to go with. I'm a hobbyist and hate to tinker. I'm looking to print some external signage that can be illuminated with LED lights strips and use multiple materials. I'm aware that I'll need to learn to cut my objects into several "pieces" and assemble them after they're printed since the bed size is "small'ish". I also want to be able to print in multiple types of filaments to produce many types of prints for household products, etc... Is this the printer for me?
Bambu labs are good but requiring a cloud connection (and not local network) is really a downer for me.. bit shaky on the open source stuff too.. the flow analysis and input shaping and all that is really cool though and i hope it kicks prusa in the butt to get some of that stuff in
The dual colour screw gauge is easy to do with a single extruder printer, even a basic ender 3. The text is above the rest of the print so just insert a filament change at the layer the text starts so when it prints it, it will stop at that layer and let you change colours and then print the text. This works with any print that needs different colours for different layers but it is very limited because you will need to have at least the whole layer that colour, so it works best for big block changes.
I'm printing TPU very nicely on my p1p using the generic TPU profile. I am using Giantarm transparent TPU. My solid lilac TPU from a different company has tons of stringing.
26:39 - I am that person. Or rather, i was. I bought the OG ender 3 a couple years ago and basically practiced the grandfathers axe principle with it. Had a chimera 2-nozzle hotend on it at one point, BL Touch and what not. When the X1C came out i thought to myself that i do NOT want a tool that "just" works, but that i want a machine i can tinker with. And that spending 1500€ for a printer is ridiculous... Then i had some down time on my printer. I then needed it for a project where i had to print quite a few parts and after turning it on after a couple weeks it didn't work properly. I had to sit down for a while, rebuild half of it, troubleshoot for hours and hours until it worked again... When it then worked like a tool again, reliably.. i realized i don't want to tinker anymore. I've built a few 3D printers, i modified the heck out of them. I did everything i wanted and i know how these machines work. And now i am at a point where i just want a tool that works reliable. I now orded the X1C combo a few days ago and i am super excited!
Have an A1 mini thats exclusively for tpu quad prints and X1 for everything else. If your wanting to get into FDM printing for FPV accessories, save your money and get the A1 mini. It's so quiet
Hey JB, I use a mixture of wood glue and water.... 1 part and one part..... Since using this mixture I have NEVER had bed adhesion issues.. Never, not once, I apply 2 layers of glue with a brush, first one, then let it dry at 45c and then the next and fully heat, been printing for quite some time...... Yes, wood glue washes off after the print. no issues a rag and cold water deals with it no probs. The only thing I would say is watch out for those "Cloud" applications...... I have heard some bad things when it comes to cloud services..... Speed is not a selling point for me, so this does not hold water, if you have a business, totally different story though.
As an owner and early adopter of the E3D ToolChanger printers, the Bambu is very impressive simply because of the sheer amount of automation in the thing. There are ways to replicate quite a lot of the feature set with DIY and open source parts, but that featureset as a kit alone would run significantly more expensive than the X1C. So the business model seems to be to lock you into their walled garden to a degree and make the money there. However, I am not impressed by their selection of printing surfaces. Gluestick is really not something that should be necessary in this day and age, I love my custom machined PEI printbeds, no prepwork whatsoever and the prints pop right off after cooldown or you use some isopropane and let it seep between the part and the bed. Dry off, start another print. Price vs performance on the Bambu printers is completely insane though, especially when for professional use. When you compare the price of the things with what you usually pay for a pro level printer, they cost several times more than this, it is a real no brainer, so it is no surprise that these sell as well as they do, despite their shortcomings and imperfections.
5:15 😂❤ " THIS THING IS FAST AS 💩 " Love it. Man with all the upgrades I'm doing to my ender 5 plus I could just bought one of these and did nothing 😮💨 (📍3D printer hell)
Is a printer like the Snapmaker J1 with two direct-drive extruders not the better choice for us fpv enthusiasts printing primarily TPU? Would love to here your thoughts.
I have an p1p with some tweaks (you can buy them in the p1s pack). It's a great machine, I don't need the lidar sensor. But I need to correct something you say', the p1p CAN run with Ams. Also Bambu says don't print TPU from ams.
I had most of my issues when I first bought the printer. Most of them have worked themselves out. If you let that torture test go longer there is a possibility it would have stopped it. I have woke up in the morning to prints that were perfectly fine and it asked me if it should continue. I have also had ones that failed and it ended up stopping. Only issues I have now that I haven't messed with too much are wall adhesion with TPU and overhangs with TPU
@@conorstewart2214 I'd have to rewatch it. I thought he was just excited because he pulled up the cam right when it started happening and was able to stop it
Great review JB! Reminds me of my college days when i used an ultimaker. Bambu X1C is such a step up. Jeez this model is priced double in India. Moments i wish i was in the States😂.
Sounds like Prusa has it dialed in better with better plug and play settings for the widest variety of filaments. Also, what about those people that don't want the loudest printer on the block which is what the Bambu X1C is. In addition, with Prusa implementing Input Shaper for the mk4 it's a much faster printer than it was before. Furthermore, Prusa customer service is same day fast. Perhaps Bambu will get it right over time, but I still think Prusa is the better way to go for most people who can look past the shiny bells and whistles of the Bambu X1C.
I’ve been using hatchbox filament with my x1c flawlessly with the default profiles including the hatchbox TPU but making sure to use a small filament drier for 5+ hours before printing specifically with TPU but it also helps other filaments too
Hi Joshua, Again, and as always, thanks for the great content! Quick question: would the affiliate link work if I switch store? I am EU based and need to redirect myself to the related store…
For PLA, I use a third party textured PEI at 65°C without anything else and is pretty fantastic with zero cleanup. I hated the standard Bambu plate with glue stick... how archaic!
I donated my PRUSAs running Bambi now. So tired of all the fails that came with that printer. PRUSA was great years ago. To bad they didn’t adjust and upgrade through the years.
While printing that fast is pretty amazing, the layers below the 'water line' on your benchy looks kinda sketch. I'm guessing it's using variable layer height which is great for speed, not so much for quality unless you are doing some post processing.
it's not because of that. It's a known issue with benchies because the top deck completes which radically reduces the layer time, and this changes how much cooling above and below that line get. That changes the sheen of the filament. This video kind of explains it pretty well. ua-cam.com/video/J_pxk7HP3RE/v-deo.html
Although I'm reviewing the top-end X1C, Bambu has two other printers that are significantly less expensive. The P1S and P1P are just as fast and easy to use as the X1C, but with a few corners cut to save price. Many hobbyists--especially those who don't print more exotic filaments like ABS and carbon nylon--won't notice the difference.
These are affiliate links....
Shop the Bambu X1C: shrsl.com/45i1o
Shop the Bambu P1S: shrsl.com/45i1z
Shop the Bambu P1P: shrsl.com/45i28
If you're at the $300-ish price point on a printer, the Bambu printers are simply out of reach. But bear in mind that by the time you finish upgrading that $300 printer, you might have afforded a P1P, which will unquestionably give faster, easier, better results. If you're in the $500 and up price point, there is a good chance this is the printer you should buy.
28:38 correction: the P1P absolutely does work with the AMS.
Keep in mind that in all practical reality, you're probably not gonna upgrade a $300 printer much anymore unless it's a passion project. The upgrade project printers are now $100-150. You can get a Creality Ender 3 V2 for $100 from Microcenter or say a Voxelab Aquila X2 on sale for $150. At $250ish the Sovol SV06 and the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro have almost all the common upgrades people would do to the upgrade project printer - all metal hot end, PEI build plates, auto-bed leveling, better part cooling, direct drive extruder. If you upgrade these, it's gonna be to add Octoprint or go to klipper, and you're talking usually adding an SBC of some kind, more part cooling, and maybe a higher flow hot end to go faster. You're still nowhere near $600 probably doing that. $300-350ish gets you the same kind of printer but tricked out with Klipper out of the box with high flow hot end and stronger part cooling for faster speeds that while they won't meet the speeds of Corexy printers like the Bambu, they're faster than without Klipper. Models like this would be the Sovol Sv07 and the Elegoo Neptune 4.
Let's be honest... if you're buying one of those four printers, you're probably not going to try "upgrading it" to be comparable to a bambu because it's not practical to convert it cost and time effectively to corexy. Buyers who want corexy are virtually all going to be buying a printer that already is corexy or they're building something like a voron.
One other note: almost no one IMO should consider a P1P with the P1S available. There's well more than $100 in value in the P1S over the P1P between the enclosure, the added auxilary part cooling fan that's $30, plus filtration in the enclosure. I dunno... maybe if you're buying a fleet of them for a farm, but normal consumers? Just get the P1S over the P1P.
@@heroflying100% p1s over p1p, they definitely gonna stop production of the p1p soon
@@anishnattamai8801 I've not seen any reliable source that the P1P production will stop soon.
@heroflying Just my prediction, I doubt anyone would buy the p1p over the p1s, and bambu lab knows that
I just bought a P1P - it is hands down the best filament based 3D printer I've used to date. Other than changing what filament to use via the bambu slicer, I've made zero changes to any other setting, and I haven't had a failed print yet. That also includes TPU! Completely blown away. No doubt that Bambu has come the closest I've seen to a true press a button and it works type printer. Very satisfied with the purchase! I've also ordered the 4 color AMS and the $150 P1P->P1S upgrade kit. If anyone out there is on the fence about the brand in general or whether to get a P1S or P1P, I wholeheartedly recommend the P1S.
This is one of the best videos on the X1C I have seen. I learned more from you than any previous videos I’ve watched. I’m looking to get an X1C probably this summer. Thank you and greetings from Farragut!
Can we get the custom TPU profile please?
I got the x1c in February... I've printed so much stuff for friends and friends of friends for "give me whatever you feel it's worth" payment... My x1c paid itself by now!!! Even friends with printers of their own ask me to print stuff for them cause the quality is so good!!! I mostly print petg... I'm about to get into TPU now...
Bought an A1 Mini. Used your links. Thanks for all the learning stuff!
i got one x1C too and it prints ultra amazing with TPU. Just set the limiter in the to 2mm^3 and your print will be crisp and super precise. TPU is not a filament that likes to be printed fast
Great video - I wanted to note one thing that might be a consideration for FPV people - that AMS can't do TPU (at least as per Bambu) so you are limited to single filament for that. If you only print TPU, save the cost of the AMS.
id avoid it in general unless you have a serious need for it. swapping filaments is quick and easy with this printer anyways and the AMS causes more issues than the printer itself.
@@drkastenbrot That is a very interesting take. I have the X1C and almost at a year of use with the AMS. I have gone through thousands of filament loads, retractions and swaps and it has been fine with general maintenance. So I would look at a printer without an AMS a downgrade. The AMS has a bunch of other features other than multicolor though.
There is a TPU alternative that works fine with the AMS if you dry it right then it absorbs moisture and softens.(you can dunk in in water too speed up the process)
It's called sttpu. Prints like PLA (80D hardness pla is typically 83D) and softens into a TPU consistency(65A). As with anything YMMV.
@@drkastenbrot my ams has messed up probably oh… 10 times in a year, the overwhelming majority of those issues were filaments breaking, being malformed and clogging in PTFE tubes or in the feeder, or filament reals that were too light at the end of the roll. The overwhelming majority of the time the AMS been perfectly reliable.
Slight correction. The ams can be upgraded to 16 filaments. It has many many other features.
Getting the basic stuff out of the way multi color, multi materials with similar filaments,
It can be used for breakaway or soluble supports It's great for pla to petg print/supports
It can be used in run out mode. That means it will switch to the next roll if you are running out of filament so you can use up nearly spend rolls.
You can use 4KG of filament at a time
The AMS doubles as a (non heated) drybox with desiccant
it has a humidity sensor so you have a rough idea how saturated the AMS is. (green, yellow red)
You dont have to touch filament at all which makes printing seamless from printing locally or remotely.
Downsides
Do not use abrasives or softer materials like tpu but sttpu is an alternative to general tpu.
What the hell is STTPU?
oh how can one not up it to 16 materials... you just spent a bunch of my $$ damn u
WOW this is my first video from this guy....looks like hell be my new fave 3d printing Chanel 😊
Until you realize it’s not a 3d printing channel
If FPV is what is lead you to 3D printing, I highly recommend the P1P - It will print TPU just as well as the X1C.
That was true until the P1S was released. Just pony up the $100 more to get the P1S. Absolutely worth it.
Can we get the TPU printing profile and rhe brand of tpu you are using please so we can replicate your results?
@charlesmcguire9711 the tpu he mentioned was Sainsmart, I would also like that profile though.
[4:30] In my experience of ~5000 hours of printing with the X1C those 1st layer failures are a result of a dirty plate resulting in poor bed adhesion. Maybe an idea to give your plates a good clean. Additionally, the lidar doesn't always catch 1st layer failures, adjusting the detection sensitivity can help here also. All in all, I'm super happy with the X1C and really appreciate your content!
Curious if you’d buy X1C of P1S today?
X1C all the way@@KeithStrang
Thanks man! @@raiuno90
Thanks to Julian Onde from www.noozle3d.com/ for participating in this video! His years of experience with 3D printing and the Prusa Mk3 specifically were really valuable in giving perspective on the Bambu printers!
Would you mind sharing that tpu profile? I've been having alot of issues printing tpu with my x1c lately
Would totally appreciate it if you were to share the tpu profile, that is if you are allowed to
Thank you for your review! You helped me decide on the Bambu X1C, I currently have an Ender 3 V2.
Hi could you share your setting for tpu? thank you
Been running 15 Prusa i3Mk3s in a school lab for almost 4 years now. Seriously considering replacing them with Bambu's. I definitely do feel some affinity for Prusa and their open source machines, but the speed on the Bambu's is excellent. It is also a bit of a pain to order internationally with my school. I will say that some of my Prusa's have over 900 days of print time on them and 15km of filament printed so we've certainly gotten our money out of them. Thanks for the video.
Sometimes you are better off knowing the devil you know! The grass is not as green as it is being advertised.
@@muddymaker3721 Yeah I hear you on that. I'm going through and basically rebuilding all of them right now. The nice thing is that I actually *can* rebuild them, can easily get parts, etc. I'm reprinting a lot of the parts around the X axis carriage in higher temperature plastics and am hoping that will help with some melting issues we've had when large blobs form due to print detachment.
The other big question is that I sometimes have over 100 students all with 24/7 access to the printers, and as you can imagine they take a fair amount of (unintentional) abuse. I'm actually a bit worried about all the features on the Bambus since in my situation that is more points of failure.
I suppose in the end, it is great as a user that the technology continues to improve. Really that's a win for all of us regardless of what printer we choose.
I'm 3 years into my Prusa MK3S+ and it's a serious workhorse. It is easy to use and RELIABLE. At this point, wild unicorns could not drag me away from it.
@@allysoncheynes1216 What about wild horses?
Prusa just came out with a frimware that suppose to make their printers print faster.
Great video. Should have my X1C in a few days. Can't wait. I currently have the Prusa MK3 with the MMU, and it has always been hit or miss with the MMU, But it is a pretty awesome printer. Prusa Is really really great for a beginner, especially if they get the kit so you have to build the printer. It's a valuable experience for sure.
And I won't even talk about the PITA Ender 3 S1 Plus. Thanks for the review.
I've got the P1P and it came with the Bambu Dual Sided Textured PEI Plate and I get excellent first layer bed adhesion! Also i noticed if you print on Ludacris mode on the thin tight areas the print comes out better looking. I also noticed that if a print kinda messes up a little then the next time you print the same print it comes out better as if the printer knows what it did wrong the first time! I love this P1P! Thanks JB Cheers!
25:38 what are those thick rectangles under bambu P1Ps on the shelf? Are they concrete blocks? Is there anything else between the printers and these blocks?
Paver stones probably to give a flat full surface for the printer to sit on since he’s using wire shelving.
Dag !!!!!
You are so lucky to get that free !!!!!
That's so sweet !!!!!
Can't wait to see what you can do with it !!!!!
Been running a few X1C's from the day one preorders, two of which are fully insulated and dedicated to PA6-CF no issues aside from normal things you run into with any printer. they are amazing machines but not a fan of how it handles multimaterial prints, these will remain my primary printers for most orders but got a 5 extruder Prusia XL shipping soon that i'm excited to get my hands on! they have been a total game changer though, one X1C will replace the output of 3 bed slingers and if space is a issue then clearly 4 printers is better then 12. the speed makes it much more viable to do rapid prototyping when you can litterlly get a test part off the unit in a 1/3 of the time.
For multimaterial, a mutlti-head printer is really best. Then you don't have to do purge towers and waste a ton of filament. But they're out of the price range of most hobbyists.
@@JoshuaBardwell IDEX isn't. You can get a SOVOL SV04 for
You can hook up 4 AMS! That's 16 colours!
And p1p can also work with the AMS!
When people ask me why I don’t have a 3D printer, I always tell them, “I already have too many hobbies”. This could change that.
Is there a link to the TPU settings?
Love my x1c and the tpu printing is awesome now it dialled in it’s that good I’ve bought another
Can we have the TPU custom profiles?
Is there any way you could share the custom tuned profile for TPU?
The one I got from a "pro" friend, he asked me not to share bc it's the basis for his business. My Bambu contact says he's working on a new TPU profile and I'll share it when it's ready.
Can I run a Bambu printer on Wi-Fi without connecting to the cloud?
This could be just me, in the UK, but the Ender 3 S1 currently retails on amazon for £186 ($235) (that's what I paid for it) and so far I cannot fault it. Print quality is great, the print time (with a little bit of tinkering) is quite acceptable, and if you're not dead set on printing ABS, there's no need for an enclosure.
Sure - it wont be as fast, but if you're doing this as more of a business, then getting 5 of them + 5 Raspberry Pi 4's + nearly 15kgs of filament, and investing just a bit of time into the setup seems like the better deal to get started mass printing.
JB nice analogies at the beginning! Thank you for this
Check out the Orcaslicer for the Bambu it provides a lot more fine tuning as well filament calibration!
What print settings did you actually use?
20:08 On the website, TPU says it's not compatible with AMS. Is that possibly what caused you the trouble?
No I wasn't using the AMS.
Thank you for this. I am a noon at looking at printers and have been learning towards this X1C but the price is right up there but then most if not all are saying this is the printer to buy. So I am saving hard to get one. lol
Yess! I aslo print with SainSmart Filament with my P1P and it comes out amazing!
Think it would be worth looking at Orca Slicer as well as a good alternative to the bambu slicer.
Bambu does finally offer a textured PEI build sheet which has really good adhesion without the need for adhesives.
Just got P1S and I’m pumped!
Just ordered my X1C today. Looking forward to it for sure! I suspect Bambu is going to replace my Prusa Printers eventually.
What's the smallest I can get to just print tpu arm guards and antenna mounts?
P1P
Josua, just little correction ... P1P is working with AMS without any issues, there is also now P1S that is upgraded version with side panels and other stuff, like fans ... and it is also working with AMS. P1P is basically budjet frendly Bambu lab printer that can be upgraded to some way ( I think that upgrade kit from P1P to P1S is about 160$ or something like that).
What you can maybe also try to show in other YT videos is how carbon filled filaments are maybe ok for printing some parts for drone ?
And welcome to Bambu lab printer owner club :D happy printing with it.
Great review, can I print ASA and Carbon in this? I build automotive parts and I am having a huge PITA time printing ASA, it warps on every printer I try. Also, the P1P isn't smaller, it's the same exact size, it just doesn't have the enclosure or the screen. :)
I know I’m a bit late to this party - have a quick question.
I’m good printing off existing models, from Thingyverse….. but how do you go about designing your own parts? What is a good piece of software? Is a 3D scanner required, and any other info along those lines - would be most appreciated. Thanks
A tip for using glue stick - after applying wipe it with a damp cloth - it'll dilute, thin and evenly spread the glue improving adhesion and bottom surface quality. It'll look like the glue has gone leaving the build plate wet, but it'll soon dry leaving a really thin residue of glue.
One mistake, the Bambu P1P does support the ANS system. I am running both right now! Great value, love it. It is my seventh 3D printer. By far the best of all (one was a Prusa).
Can you post the tpu profile?
WOW! I am quite shocked with the overhang at 13:21, WOW just WOW! My ghetto printer can't do that, it always sag. Impressive! Plus 20mins benchy! Really impressive!
At 7 mins you can see the outer wall speed set to 200 mm/s. That's fast. My Creality CR-10S Pro is maxed at (I think) 180. Never tried it though. Plus the rest goes well over 300 and 400 mm/s.
@@Fukkeduck I see mine is at 40ms. This could be the culprit.
Regarding the print bed, its funny Ive got a CEL Robox from like 2016 that I'm still using, its got maybe 1200Hrs of printing time on it and I have NEVER had a single print detach from the print bed during printing. I don't use any sort of adhesive, I just clean it with IPA from time to time. When the print finishes and the bed cools down, the part detaches by itself. It looks like a sort brown fiberglass like what old PCBs used to look like. I'm convinced now its the ideal build plate material. Anyway great review Joshua, I want this printer!
Good morning, in your opinion, what is the best 3D printer, with an approximate area of 300x300x300mm and that prints ABS and ASA filaments?
Thanks
Bambu x1c?
Thanks
Gotta order the textured build plate. It’s a game changer.
I ordered the k1 over the p1p since bambu required a network connection to run. Waiting for its arrival, complete new world for me and still debating on what slicer and if fusion360 is still the popular choice, possible updated video from your 3d printing playlist coming? 👍
Would you mind sharing that tpu profile?😃
just got mine today. Cant wait to use it
Technically you can have 4 AMS's so tops out at 16 colors. Great review. And The p1p can run the AMS also.
Great video and thanks for all the info. I'm a newbee at this 3D printing stuff and trying to decide what brand to go with. I'm a hobbyist and hate to tinker. I'm looking to print some external signage that can be illuminated with LED lights strips and use multiple materials. I'm aware that I'll need to learn to cut my objects into several "pieces" and assemble them after they're printed since the bed size is "small'ish". I also want to be able to print in multiple types of filaments to produce many types of prints for household products, etc... Is this the printer for me?
Bambu labs are good but requiring a cloud connection (and not local network) is really a downer for me.. bit shaky on the open source stuff too.. the flow analysis and input shaping and all that is really cool though and i hope it kicks prusa in the butt to get some of that stuff in
The dual colour screw gauge is easy to do with a single extruder printer, even a basic ender 3. The text is above the rest of the print so just insert a filament change at the layer the text starts so when it prints it, it will stop at that layer and let you change colours and then print the text.
This works with any print that needs different colours for different layers but it is very limited because you will need to have at least the whole layer that colour, so it works best for big block changes.
I'm printing TPU very nicely on my p1p using the generic TPU profile. I am using Giantarm transparent TPU. My solid lilac TPU from a different company has tons of stringing.
26:39 - I am that person. Or rather, i was. I bought the OG ender 3 a couple years ago and basically practiced the grandfathers axe principle with it. Had a chimera 2-nozzle hotend on it at one point, BL Touch and what not.
When the X1C came out i thought to myself that i do NOT want a tool that "just" works, but that i want a machine i can tinker with. And that spending 1500€ for a printer is ridiculous... Then i had some down time on my printer. I then needed it for a project where i had to print quite a few parts and after turning it on after a couple weeks it didn't work properly. I had to sit down for a while, rebuild half of it, troubleshoot for hours and hours until it worked again... When it then worked like a tool again, reliably.. i realized i don't want to tinker anymore.
I've built a few 3D printers, i modified the heck out of them. I did everything i wanted and i know how these machines work. And now i am at a point where i just want a tool that works reliable. I now orded the X1C combo a few days ago and i am super excited!
Textured build place is a must.
I need to try his TPU profile.
Did you print the Tpu in the ams?
Can it print the carbon fiber ^ nylon filaments without falling apart? I was looking at Elegoo.
Yes it can. A friend of mine who prints professionally, and who mostly runs CF nylon, has bought two X1C and is loving them.
You need to thermal soak the chamber for awhile in my experience but yes, absolutely.
Have you printed lots of tpu on it?
I print mostly tpu stuff for drones
Also I don’t want to just use bamboo filament
Love mine, I got one for my home and one for office
What was the STL file you used for that green test print?
first
With that said, good rundown and an honest review. Thanks for always being reliable JB.
second
I used black eSun TPU with standard profile which was fine - although my print was just a frame with some overhang and not a case or something.
Have an A1 mini thats exclusively for tpu quad prints and X1 for everything else. If your wanting to get into FDM printing for FPV accessories, save your money and get the A1 mini. It's so quiet
Hey JB, I use a mixture of wood glue and water.... 1 part and one part..... Since using this mixture I have NEVER had bed adhesion issues.. Never, not once, I apply 2 layers of glue with a brush, first one, then let it dry at 45c and then the next and fully heat, been printing for quite some time...... Yes, wood glue washes off after the print. no issues a rag and cold water deals with it no probs. The only thing I would say is watch out for those "Cloud" applications...... I have heard some bad things when it comes to cloud services..... Speed is not a selling point for me, so this does not hold water, if you have a business, totally different story though.
Or jettison the stupid cool plate and get a smooth PEI for PLA and such. I love my X1 Carbon, but the cool plate was a stupid idea.
As an owner and early adopter of the E3D ToolChanger printers, the Bambu is very impressive simply because of the sheer amount of automation in the thing. There are ways to replicate quite a lot of the feature set with DIY and open source parts, but that featureset as a kit alone would run significantly more expensive than the X1C. So the business model seems to be to lock you into their walled garden to a degree and make the money there.
However, I am not impressed by their selection of printing surfaces. Gluestick is really not something that should be necessary in this day and age, I love my custom machined PEI printbeds, no prepwork whatsoever and the prints pop right off after cooldown or you use some isopropane and let it seep between the part and the bed. Dry off, start another print.
Price vs performance on the Bambu printers is completely insane though, especially when for professional use. When you compare the price of the things with what you usually pay for a pro level printer, they cost several times more than this, it is a real no brainer, so it is no surprise that these sell as well as they do, despite their shortcomings and imperfections.
5:15 😂❤ " THIS THING IS FAST AS 💩 " Love it. Man with all the upgrades I'm doing to my ender 5 plus I could just bought one of these and did nothing 😮💨 (📍3D printer hell)
can confiirm!
Happy with my X1C more than half a year!
Btw: Looks like you don't use orca-slicer yet.
Can absolutely recommend.
P1p absolutely works with the ams sir.
Is a printer like the Snapmaker J1 with two direct-drive extruders not the better choice for us fpv enthusiasts printing primarily TPU? Would love to here your thoughts.
I have an p1p with some tweaks (you can buy them in the p1s pack). It's a great machine, I don't need the lidar sensor.
But I need to correct something you say', the p1p CAN run with Ams. Also Bambu says don't print TPU from ams.
P1P (and now the new P1S) does work with the AMS
I had most of my issues when I first bought the printer. Most of them have worked themselves out. If you let that torture test go longer there is a possibility it would have stopped it. I have woke up in the morning to prints that were perfectly fine and it asked me if it should continue. I have also had ones that failed and it ended up stopping. Only issues I have now that I haven't messed with too much are wall adhesion with TPU and overhangs with TPU
I thought in the video whilst he was watching the printer did automatically stop the print.
@@conorstewart2214 I'd have to rewatch it. I thought he was just excited because he pulled up the cam right when it started happening and was able to stop it
just got my x1c. the build plate is textured
Great review JB! Reminds me of my college days when i used an ultimaker. Bambu X1C is such a step up. Jeez this model is priced double in India. Moments i wish i was in the States😂.
Great video! Way to go Noozle3d!!!
This is kinda confusing for my bc I was able to get amazing prints with my p1p first try with tpu and I have done a lot of tpu now
I love to print FPV frames
Sounds like Prusa has it dialed in better with better plug and play settings for the widest variety of filaments. Also, what about those people that don't want the loudest printer on the block which is what the Bambu X1C is. In addition, with Prusa implementing Input Shaper for the mk4 it's a much faster printer than it was before. Furthermore, Prusa customer service is same day fast. Perhaps Bambu will get it right over time, but I still think Prusa is the better way to go for most people who can look past the shiny bells and whistles of the Bambu X1C.
those two spools NE are my favorite
Holup.........You got sainsmart pink?
It works.. some of the time. Ron is that you.
I’ve been using hatchbox filament with my x1c flawlessly with the default profiles including the hatchbox TPU but making sure to use a small filament drier for 5+ hours before printing specifically with TPU but it also helps other filaments too
Hi Joshua,
Again, and as always, thanks for the great content!
Quick question: would the affiliate link work if I switch store? I am EU based and need to redirect myself to the related store…
We have an $8500 one at work that's basically about twice as tall and it's insane
For PLA, I use a third party textured PEI at 65°C without anything else and is pretty fantastic with zero cleanup.
I hated the standard Bambu plate with glue stick... how archaic!
I preordered a Q1 Pro and i will probably get a A1 or a P1P next
im a hobbyist, and I am getting X1C #2 soon! because 1 is not enough! lol
I donated my PRUSAs running Bambi now. So tired of all the fails that came with that printer. PRUSA was great years ago. To bad they didn’t adjust and upgrade through the years.
This one is definitely n my list.
While printing that fast is pretty amazing, the layers below the 'water line' on your benchy looks kinda sketch. I'm guessing it's using variable layer height which is great for speed, not so much for quality unless you are doing some post processing.
Could be. Bambu slicer does support variable layer height. And that would increase the speed.
it's not because of that. It's a known issue with benchies because the top deck completes which radically reduces the layer time, and this changes how much cooling above and below that line get. That changes the sheen of the filament. This video kind of explains it pretty well. ua-cam.com/video/J_pxk7HP3RE/v-deo.html
Just ordered the P1S with AMS :)
So how about some building 3D printed drone video?
I also bought such a printer, only I have 4 ams. they say he has problems with printing TPU and pva