Get your next venus Sarracenia, Venus Flytrap or other carnivorous plant from the most experienced and knowledgeable carnivorous plant nursery around, California Carnivores. You can get 10% off when you use CPHUB at checkout. They have an amazing selection of incredible venus flytrap cultivars and other amazing carnivorous plants. Go check out their collections now, Sarracenia - www.californiacarnivores.com/collections/sarracenia-species?aff=7 Carnivorous Plant Collections - www.californiacarnivores.com/collections?aff=7
I recently acquired one of these and kept him under my lights indoors for a few days. I saw a lot of people online that said that these where perfect outdoor plants in my climate so I put them outside my window. It was pretty warm that day with a few hours of direct sunlight and I saw at the end of the day that they were kind of dried out even though I made sure they had enough water. I looked up where the plant was natuve to and saw that all thoses places had a really high humidity and that they were a kind of sarracenia that was more likely to grow in a slightly more shadowy place than most other sarracenias. My point being that it can definitely grow outside I think but the humidity is also really important.
Hey Benoit, I'm sure they would benefit from a little bit more humidity. Honestly though, mine is doing really well outside and I have almost no humidity where I live. It's usually down in the 10-20% range. I do however have to keep it in a tray of water, if I don't, it dries out really quickly. Most sarracenia like to sit in a constant tray of water. I do notice the plant dries up quickly if I don't stay on top of the water. Make sure to keep it sitting in a tray of water, it should be okay even in low humidity. I actually did an update on this one that you can check out! ua-cam.com/video/ZKlmdMCt86M/v-deo.html
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I keep all my plants in a tray of water aswell so I did'nt think that was the problem but maybe it was because their roots weren't as developed as yours so they couldn't absorb that much water from all the way down. I can't see what else could have been the problem. Thanks for the quick reply and the tips!
@@benoitritzen3852 Make sure the water is deep enough. There has to be enough for the water to wick up to at least where the root tips are located. If you keep the water at a fairly constant depth in the tray and at least the root growing tips are moist, the roots will grow deeper until they find the moisture level they desire. Often, if the plant is overgrowing the pot - or the pot is too shallow - roots will actually grow out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Those root ends sitting in pure water does not seem to harm them at all. Like Carnivorous Plant Hub, my local humidity is often in the 10% to 20% range. It does not seem to bother the plants at all. One thing you do need to do, if you are moving a plant from a high humidity location to low humidity - or from somewhat dim light to bright sunlight - is to acclimatize them over a period of a week or two. The plants need time to adjust to the new growing conditions.
Like you, I live in the PNW - in my case Mid Willamette Valley. In the approximately 15 years that I have been growing the American carnivorous plants, I have NEVER protected them from the cold - even when the temperature has dropped to -10 degrees F or colder for a week or so when one of the Arctic cold cells settles into the valley. I don't think I have ever lost a plant due to the cold. But if it were to drop below about 20 degrees F for an extended spell with a wind, I would cover them. The risk there is that the wind could dehydrate the rhizome by sucking the moisture out of the pitchers. The few times such cold/wind has occurred, there has always been a deep blanket of snow that protected the plants.
I usually keep mine in the garage but the problem with that is it keeps the wind off them but they also never get the layer of snow to insulate them. So I also have to be diligent about making sure I cover them when it gets that cold outside. We do run into streaks where we have that kind of cold and not much snow on the ground even outside. At least in the garage I'm able to keep them out of the wind. If I knew 100% that they would have a nice layer of snow during those cold times, it would make me more likely to keep them outside. Thank you for sharing your experience! Oregon is such a beautiful state, I've never had the opportunity to visit the Willamette Valley yet but I've heard it's beautiful!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub The problem does not seem to be the cold, but the risk of a stiff wind dehydrating the old pitchers and thus the rhizomes. Your plants should be fine in the garage, even without any insulating layer.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I don't know how many plants you have but, if you have a few you can risk, I would suggest leaving them outdoors over the winter and see how they do. I don't get around to doing so, but you could trim off all the dormant pitchers before the really cold weather starts. My suggestion only applies if you are in USDA zone 8 or warmer - possibly zone 7. I think you will find the plants are a lot hardier than even the plant experts believe.
S. purpurea purpurea or Sarracenia purpurea ssp. venosa: Tray watering is great, but these species use rain water, in the wild, to keep water in the pitchers. Growers need to be sure each pitcher has water inside. These plants do not have hoods, as many other species do. This allows rain water to accumulate in the pitchers. In these species, the insect falls into the rain water and drowns, then the plant begins the digestion process. The fluid in the pitchers is not digestive fluid produced by the plant. It’s rain water or in captivity, distilled water. Don’t let the inside of the pitchers dry out. Frequently, when your plant arrives, the inside of the pitchers are devoid of water. This is also the case if grown inside. S. purpurea purpurea can tolerate very cold conditions. S. purpurea venosa can also tolerate freezing, but to a much less degree, as it is a southeastern species/variant. Any plant just purchased would need to gradually acclimate to temperature, sun or any changes in its environment. I enjoy watching your videos. Please keep them coming. Thanks!!
Miss K Fountain, great additional call outs, this was an extremely helpful comment. Thank you for adding a ton of value. I agree with everything you said, I'll remember to include these details in future Purpurea videos. It is important to keep water in the pitchers!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I believe that the digestion is actually done by bacteria that grows in the pitchers. As Miss K stated, they do not produce their own digestive juices. I never worry about the water levels in the pitchers and they seem to do fine. However, they might be a bit more vigorous if I did ensure there was water in them at all times. I think that, here in the Willamette Valley, they get plenty of nutrition in the spring before the dry summer season starts.
Most/all the species are inter-fertile, so hybrids are common in nature as well. Very dedicated breeders can spend decades working to get a hybrid with the characteristics they desire.
thanks for the info! i found one of these while out fishing, didnt even know that any carnivorous plants were native to Maine... found out its one of these guys, cant wait to keep one now! :)
It's hard to say for sure without testing it. You want to grab a TDS meter, they are only like 10-15 bucks on Amazon. You want to look for water that is under 50 PPM. If it's any higher than that it can harm your plant long term. Some natural water is okay but most of the time you will need distilled, rain or water from a reverse osmosis system.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub thanks! ill look into it. the one i found in the wild is growing on a floating island in a pond, thats why i was curious about ponds, but ill test my water sources to be sure before attempting to keep one anyway
The most difficult carnivorous plant at least which I'm aware of is the cobra lily. Need to keep there roots cool. Don't think I can grow them well in sunny Florida.
I always chuckle when I come across Sarracenia NW description. I think it echoes what your saying exactly. Lol. www.growcarnivorousplants.com/darlingtonia-californica/
You might be able to, but it would be difficult. It is hard enough here in the Pacific Northwest, where we are close to where they are native. Darlingtonia usually grows in seeps, where there is a continuous flow of water over the roots. The high sun and high air temperatures are not going to hurt the plant - many of them see such conditions in nature. The biggest problem, according the Jeff at SNW, is that the plants in artificial environments are prone to catching a virus that kills them. "Cobra Lily" is not original to SNW. The term was used from about the time the plant was first discovered.
These things are so funky looking lol. Just a death hole on top of a huge tube. Very cool looking, just got one today, super exited to find one as they are not common where I live in stores
Hahaha! "Death hole on top of a huge tube" someone put that in the dictionary as the official definition of a Sarracenia Purpurea! I was excited to see them at mine too, I've never seen them again!
I have a couple of these I brought home from work at a garden center. I bought one of them just about a week ago, and we had it overwinter in the unheated back half of the shop. The other one I have, I brought home in August or so, and I had it in my house for the winter, so it never went dormant. Is the older one just a goner at this point, or is it okay to miss a winter dormancy?
I like how you say that this would be your goto carnivorous plant for an outside plant if you have cold winters. I would have to agree. thas species is found natrurally growing as far north as minnissota and central canada. I know that in Minnissota it can get as cold as -20f for weeks at a time in the winter.
I have done a more recent update, ua-cam.com/video/2LhbPl27oVQ/v-deo.html However, I want to do another as it doesn't even look like this anymore it has grown so much! I'll do an update again soon! It's such a cool plant!
Hi thanks for your video. I just got mine and I’m in a cold zone 6a. Right now I have it under grow lights in a tray of water. How do I help it go into dormancy while inside? If I put it gradually into a cold windowless garage will that be ok for them? I don’t have another area in my house that stays cool
I don't have a ton of experience propagating purps, however I think the only way to do this is with divisions. You can wait until it grows a bit then divide the rhizome up. That's usually the best way to propagate. Not as exciting, but still a way to make lots of plants!
They do require winter dormancy. So, they need to stay below 50 degrees F. It's important that the plant is protected during this time, especially if temps go below freezing. They are super hardy and can survive pretty cold temps, but you can definitely help them out by overwintering them. Putting pineneeds, bark or like a landscaping cloth over the soil can help insulate the plant during winter. If it gets snowed on, leave the snow on top, this also helps insulate. Dormancy should be around 3 months which usually works pretty well with normal winter months. The ideal space is an unheated building where you can overwinter it and keep it out of the elements. Hopefully that helps!
How would I wash the peat moss? On the package says no nutrients but the the tds meter says 260ppm. I have to use like 2 gallons of clean water to wash that away for a single pot.
That's pretty high for no additives. When I buy mine it's typically around 90 then I soak it down to around 30 or so. Then the next few times I water, I flush. 260 is going to take a lot more water to rinse. I might try finding some peat that has less TDS out of the bag.
You would need to overwinter the plant. You can use winter cloth to cover then add pine needles or whatever else on top to insulate it. Once it gets that cold, they go full dormant and light is not needed.
So.... Everyone says it -has- to be outside, but... can I have it inside and have it survive? Because our winters get very very cold, suck as below degrees...... and its not at all very bright here since its dark most hours of the day in the winter time.......
Ya, it does help to have maybe a third of it filled up with water. It's okay to fill them up, but not necessary. If you imagine them out in the rain, they definitely get filled up occasionally.
Hello, I need help with how to water this plant. I bought a teracota pot (it’s small) and I put the media as described by you, but I’m unsure of watering. I put the pot inside my bowl and filled with distilled water, is this okay for my plant?
I would try to avoid teracotta as it can leach minerals into the soil. For water, I like to tray water. I try to keep the tray pretty wet with these guys. They really seem to suck up a lot of water!
plastic pots are the best to use for to many reasons to list. I live in NYC. I grow mine most of the year on a south facing windowsill so they get a ton of light. and for watering I bottom water by use of a deep tray filled to the level that's about a smidge above halfway on the plants pots. so if the pot is 5 inches tall, the water is about 2.5-3 inches deep. the pro's grow the new world carnivorous plant species grow them in tall, deep pots. it would seem pointless since these plants have relatively no roots. this is done so that the actual potted up plant, when put into the water tray, isn't submerged in the water. their shallow root systems primarily keep to the top most layers of medium. since sphagnum moss and pearlite hold water but allow good drainage and air circulation, the roots and other underground plant parts, fly trap corms, the central growth point on American pitcher plants, etc. have little risk of rotting. keep in mind that the level of water in the tray should be high enough to allow good capillary action and wick the water up to keep the whole of the potting medium sufficiently wet, about halfway up the side of the pot usually is enough and at the very least should be at least 3 inches. always a bit over halfway at the very least. any less impleads the capillary action you want and on a hot day outside in full sun the water could fully evaporate to quickly. drying out the plant and the medium is a sure fire way too kill these plants fast. when choosing pots and such remember to figure in enough space above the water line so the plant isn't growing submersed in mud. using this kind of set up, with a potting medium consisting of 2 parts peat moss (DON'T USE ANY BRAND THAT ADDS FERTALIZER! SHOULD SAY ON BAG THAT IT'S GOOD TO USE WITH CARNIVORUS PLANTS) 2 parts pearlite, 1 part chopped long fiber sphagnum moss, 1-1.5 parts activated charcoal, and 1 part course grade horticultural sand. with tall enough plastic pots and a deep enough water tray. placed in full sun for most of the day (after the plants are acclimated of course) and these plants will pretty much take care of themselves. all I do is keep the water tray filled to the right height and provide protection to the whole setup for the plants winter rest and that's it. they are the easiest plants to grow. they evolved to be bad asses. i mean a plant that hunts and eats it's pray raw and while it's still moving. they can handle a lot. all you need to do is provide the basics and that's it.
I got a purpurea (I think anyways) from lowes and it was kinda knocked over in the box and it had dirt in the pitcher. Do I need to do anything about that or should he be okay?
It will probably be okay. If you can easily get it out, I probably would. if you really have to dig and possibly harm the plant, I wouldn't worry about it. The new pitchers will catch insects.
I love this sarracenia the most, and really love your video, could you please make more videos to purpurea venosa, like feedind, digesting and like them grow? :)
Tray watering is great, but remember this species uses rain, water in the wild, to keep water in its pitchers. You need to be sure each pitcher has water inside. They do not have hoods as many pitchers do , allowing rain water to accumulate in the pitchers. In this species, the insect falls into the rain water and drowns, then the plant begins its digestion. The fluid in this species is not digestive fluid produced by the plant. It’s rain water or in captivity, distilled water. Don’t let the inside of the pitchers be empty.
What are the tiny narrow leaves at the bottom for? I got mine from a reptile convention and it made me think it was some sort of hybrid but I guess it's not.I noticed that these ones don't grow and are also hollow like the typical leaves
I think what you're referring to are the small starts. Some of them mature into bigger pitchers but some of them just stop growing small. I'm not sure how the plant decides which to keep small and which to grow big. But I don't think they are anything other than just small pitchers.
I got some bareroot plants and planted them up about 4-5 weeks ago, like you repotted yours here. Now I have two stems, well, one stem with a ball on the end, like a flower bud. The other looked at first like a grass leaf, but now has some twists in it and seems to be developing into a leaf out from one side of a stem, the tip almost looks like it has another leaf forming on the end. It's my first time growing these, so not real sure what I should expect. Could one of these be a flower stem and is the other the way the pitchers form? Your plants in the video have small pitchers and look like that's how they form, and just get bigger as they grow. If that's how they grow, any ideas on what might be growing on my plants?
Hey Stephen, it's kind of hard to know for sure without seeing pictures. But it definitely sounds like you are describing new pitchers. I'd have to see a photo of the flower to know for sure however.
Really good video great plants they look pretty healthy for coming from Lowe’s! You can definitely tell that they needed a repot sphagnum moss gets really brown when it’s just about done. Loving your videos and I really hope your dream comes true!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHubsince I collected mine from the wilds of the pine Barrens where it's on fire as I type right now I don't know the age but I consider it a plant rescue they looked sad because of the ghost Forrest around them. They look so much better just can't wait for the day they bloom. Also rescued by accident a dozen sun dews which did bloom for me and made me very proud nice little white flowers which repotted themselves in 2 other pots holding Venus fly traps.
I would do a diluted Maxsea 16-16-16 mixture. Usually people put 1/2 tsp of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Maxsea - amzn.to/3xL2cBs Fill the pitchers up half way with the diluted mixture. I've seen people have really good results
Most of my plants I've unboxed and showed where they come from. But, all over. Big box stores, nurseries, personal sellers. Little bit of everything. Any plant in particular you were curious about?
They like full sun and a lot of light. I'm guessing they just didn't get enough light. Acclimate them slowly to the full sun, but once they are acclimated, they can take about as much sun as you can give them.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub You made a comment about the size of the sand grains. I think 10 mesh through about 16 mesh is ideal - preferably a mix of the sizes.
Hey I have a question, do you continue to water during the winter? If I were to have a water tray in the winter it would turn into a huge ice block overnight. Also, do they need light when in dormancy? Can I just put it in a unheated garage for the worst parts of the winter. I have leucophyll so it’s not the exact same plant FYI. Also should I still mist the soil if I have a water tray or will the water soak through the soil from the bottom
Yes, they definitely still need water in the winter. Its close to the same rules, you will just notice they use much less water and don't dry out as often. It's okay for them to freeze from time to time but if you know they are going to be frozen for an extended period bringing them into an unheated garage might be best. They are pretty cold hardy and can probably survive the freezing, but if it gets really bad, might want to bring them in. It also depends on snow, if you have them covered in snow, the snow will actually insulate them. IT really just depends on how cold it is and how long the freeze will last. I do try to keep them with light, even when moved into the garage, if they could be close to a window, that would be best. Put them back outside as soon as the temps become regular again. I try to top water my plants during dormancy since they don't need nearly as much water. But, if you need to you can tray water them, they can be more susceptible to root rot during winter time since the water doesn't dry out as often.
If you are in USDA zone 7 or colder, the plants can be left outdoors if they are sprayed with a fungicide and then well covered with a thick layer of mulch. But if you only have a few plants, it is far easier to move all of them into an unheated garage or shed. The main purpose of doing so is to protect the dormant plants from dehydration by wind.
Is that really fine sand or coarse? And are you going to make a video when you “winterize” these? I also live in the PNW and just got some of these! I’m curious what I should do to prepare for this weather.
It's pretty coarse. The bigger the grade the better. If it's too fine it clumps and doesn't help much. They need to be in the cold for a few months, probably from now until March or so. But, they should be kept between 30 and 50. They can freeze a few times just not all winter. The best solution is an unheated room or building like a garage. If they stay below 40 degrees they really don't need light due to the suspended state they are in. It's tricky in the PNW to keep them around 30, but you can overwinter and insulate them to help.
Yes! I do keep a little bit of water in the pitchers. Usually the rain takes care of that but if they dry out I'll add a bit to the pitchers. About 25% full.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub The pitchers of these open topped varieties have evolved to have a drainage hole at the proper level inside the pitcher. If you overfill it, the excess will drain out.
I would like to ask you one question, idk if you know the solution or what, few month ago I bought 2 difference plants of sarracenias and the fly trap one and I transplanted the 3 in a big recipient with no holes like a little swap I could say,one week later or so, they start growing mealybug (idk if this is the real name in English (in Spanish is cochinilla algodonosa) and I went crazy..I take them off there, and clean them just with water, taking all of this bugs out and transplanted again with new mix of peatmoss into singles pot, but days later they keep growing this bugs and they died 😭😭😭 the fly trap was the only survivor, so my question is if you know why this bug appear in the plant or at least how can I kill this bugs without damaging the plant, thanks.
Hello John, without seeing photos and being able to diagnose it's hard to for sure give great advice. However, if you are sure it's mealybugs, you can check out this article from the ICPS on how to get rid of and manage mealybugs! www.carnivorousplants.org/grow/pests/Mealybugs
This is a bit late but I see you never received a thorough reply. One of the big mistakes that people make is that they think these are swamp plants. They are not, they grow in bogs where they have a continuous flow of low mineral water at all times. You do not want stagnant water in the bottom of the pot. Make sure your pot has a decent drainage hole in the bottom, you can partly plug it with some loose long fiber sphagnum moss if you wish but I never bother to do that. Either top water and let the excess run away or put them in a tray that will not get the level more than half way up the pot and water the tray, making sure that some of the water runs off. By using low mineral water, the runoff will ensure that the mineral content will not build up too much. I suspect the mealy bugs were due to the stagnant water in your pot. You didn't say whether you were growing the plants outdoors or on a window sill - but these plants need to be grown outdoors in full sun for best growth. In the outdoors, there are natural predators that help keep pests in check. You can kill the mealy bugs using neem oil. It the infestation is not too bad, you can remove them one at a time using a cotton swab moistened with hydrogen peroxide. I seem to recall that pyrethrin is also safe if used as directed. The treatment may require repeating one or more times.
Hmm, that's unusual. Seems like maybe there is some kind of deficiency. Maybe wrong soil, not enough water or maybe even not enough light? Also, are the pitchers squished close together? Sometimes when they grow too close, they kind of pinch each other off.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I keep about 2 - 3 inches of water in my trays, depending on how tall the pot is. I am slowly migrating to taller pots only. You are probably OK if you don't have the water level more than half way up the pot. Of course, if you are using a pot only 2" to 3" tall, the water level will have to be lower.
@@monke1919 Reverse osmosis and rain water are also fine. But if you are using roof runoff, make sure no chemicals are being leached out of the roofing. Buy a cheap TDS meter - they cost less that $25 shipped. Make sure the dissolved solids are less than 50 ppm.
Probably not. If the window was open and they were getting 8-10 hours of sun a day, it would probably be fine. They might do okay in a window but the glass does filter out a lot of the important UV that the plant needs. I'd recommend a light or keeping outside in full sun. Also, they do need a cold winter dormancy period for longevity.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub ok, because when I watched a sarracenia northwest video about them it said that they grow well on windowsills. And how long would it survive without dormancy?
@@monke1919 Probably two or three years. The SNW video probably mentioned that the plants should be allowed the cold winter dormancy - otherwise they slowly decline and then die. The purpurea and rosea species are slow growing and remain rather small, so if you must grow a Sarracenia indoors then they are the best choices. Put the plant in a south or west facing window where it gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight - the more the better.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub You shouldn't use aluminum or other metal tray for your plants. The metal can leach into the water and harm the plants over time.
Mine attracts ants, they swarm it but never seem to get caught, they walk in and straight back out of the tubes again.. it's quite disappointing, I think my Sarracenia needs to become a man and grow more hairs lol
Lol, it's strange how some of these plants have evolved to capture certain insects. They seem to do better with flying insects than crawling. I've seen insects crawling out of them before too. But they do a really good job catching wasps and yellow jackets. I see a lot of them in mine, flies too. Not many crawling bugs though.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Is it possible for Sarracenia to over feed? I was wondering how much energy it takes to "digest" bugs, or even what counts as too much.
I don't think so, mine get pretty full. I noticed when it rains, sometimes the dead bugs will come out the top kind of flushing them out. I think as long as they are outside, they should be fine!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub just a thought, no need to explain things like you mounting your phone on the tripod, just do it, we don't care lol You'll get used to the video, talking, all that, it takes time. It's just a suggestion, it's pointless filler, we are here to learn how to care for our carnivorous plants. But thank you for the content, it is really helpful and I've learned a lot.
Get your next venus Sarracenia, Venus Flytrap or other carnivorous plant from the most experienced and knowledgeable carnivorous plant nursery around, California Carnivores.
You can get 10% off when you use CPHUB at checkout. They have an amazing selection of incredible venus flytrap cultivars and other
amazing carnivorous plants.
Go check out their collections now,
Sarracenia - www.californiacarnivores.com/collections/sarracenia-species?aff=7
Carnivorous Plant Collections - www.californiacarnivores.com/collections?aff=7
I recently acquired one of these and kept him under my lights indoors for a few days. I saw a lot of people online that said that these where perfect outdoor plants in my climate so I put them outside my window. It was pretty warm that day with a few hours of direct sunlight and I saw at the end of the day that they were kind of dried out even though I made sure they had enough water. I looked up where the plant was natuve to and saw that all thoses places had a really high humidity and that they were a kind of sarracenia that was more likely to grow in a slightly more shadowy place than most other sarracenias. My point being that it can definitely grow outside I think but the humidity is also really important.
Hey Benoit, I'm sure they would benefit from a little bit more humidity. Honestly though, mine is doing really well outside and I have almost no humidity where I live. It's usually down in the 10-20% range. I do however have to keep it in a tray of water, if I don't, it dries out really quickly. Most sarracenia like to sit in a constant tray of water. I do notice the plant dries up quickly if I don't stay on top of the water. Make sure to keep it sitting in a tray of water, it should be okay even in low humidity. I actually did an update on this one that you can check out! ua-cam.com/video/ZKlmdMCt86M/v-deo.html
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I keep all my plants in a tray of water aswell so I did'nt think that was the problem but maybe it was because their roots weren't as developed as yours so they couldn't absorb that much water from all the way down. I can't see what else could have been the problem. Thanks for the quick reply and the tips!
@@benoitritzen3852 Make sure the water is deep enough. There has to be enough for the water to wick up to at least where the root tips are located. If you keep the water at a fairly constant depth in the tray and at least the root growing tips are moist, the roots will grow deeper until they find the moisture level they desire.
Often, if the plant is overgrowing the pot - or the pot is too shallow - roots will actually grow out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Those root ends sitting in pure water does not seem to harm them at all.
Like Carnivorous Plant Hub, my local humidity is often in the 10% to 20% range. It does not seem to bother the plants at all.
One thing you do need to do, if you are moving a plant from a high humidity location to low humidity - or from somewhat dim light to bright sunlight - is to acclimatize them over a period of a week or two. The plants need time to adjust to the new growing conditions.
It also depends from where u grow the plant, because a lot of plants are grown in greenhouses and they never get direct light
They grow naturally in newfoundland, canada where I visit quite often!! They can definitely withstand temperatures reaching down to -30’s
Incredible! I would love to see some in the wild!
Apparently they grow quite widely in Canada if you know where to look, I’ve heard -40 C is possible maybe even beyond. One tough plant.
Ive seen them wild in northern Saskatchewan where it gets over -40!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Newfoundland’s provincial flower is actually the flower for the pitchers!!
Like you, I live in the PNW - in my case Mid Willamette Valley.
In the approximately 15 years that I have been growing the American carnivorous plants, I have NEVER protected them from the cold - even when the temperature has dropped to -10 degrees F or colder for a week or so when one of the Arctic cold cells settles into the valley. I don't think I have ever lost a plant due to the cold.
But if it were to drop below about 20 degrees F for an extended spell with a wind, I would cover them. The risk there is that the wind could dehydrate the rhizome by sucking the moisture out of the pitchers. The few times such cold/wind has occurred, there has always been a deep blanket of snow that protected the plants.
I usually keep mine in the garage but the problem with that is it keeps the wind off them but they also never get the layer of snow to insulate them. So I also have to be diligent about making sure I cover them when it gets that cold outside. We do run into streaks where we have that kind of cold and not much snow on the ground even outside. At least in the garage I'm able to keep them out of the wind. If I knew 100% that they would have a nice layer of snow during those cold times, it would make me more likely to keep them outside. Thank you for sharing your experience! Oregon is such a beautiful state, I've never had the opportunity to visit the Willamette Valley yet but I've heard it's beautiful!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub The problem does not seem to be the cold, but the risk of a stiff wind dehydrating the old pitchers and thus the rhizomes. Your plants should be fine in the garage, even without any insulating layer.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I don't know how many plants you have but, if you have a few you can risk, I would suggest leaving them outdoors over the winter and see how they do. I don't get around to doing so, but you could trim off all the dormant pitchers before the really cold weather starts.
My suggestion only applies if you are in USDA zone 8 or warmer - possibly zone 7. I think you will find the plants are a lot hardier than even the plant experts believe.
S. purpurea purpurea or Sarracenia purpurea ssp. venosa: Tray watering is great, but these species use rain water, in the wild, to keep water in the pitchers. Growers need to be sure each pitcher has water inside. These plants do not have hoods, as many other species do. This allows rain water to accumulate in the pitchers. In these species, the insect falls into the rain water and drowns, then the plant begins the digestion process. The fluid in the pitchers is not digestive fluid produced by the plant. It’s rain water or in captivity, distilled water. Don’t let the inside of the pitchers dry out. Frequently, when your plant arrives, the inside of the pitchers are devoid of water. This is also the case if grown inside.
S. purpurea purpurea can tolerate very cold conditions. S. purpurea venosa can also tolerate freezing, but to a much less degree, as it is a southeastern species/variant. Any plant just purchased would need to gradually acclimate to temperature, sun or any changes in its environment.
I enjoy watching your videos. Please keep them coming. Thanks!!
Miss K Fountain, great additional call outs, this was an extremely helpful comment. Thank you for adding a ton of value. I agree with everything you said, I'll remember to include these details in future Purpurea videos. It is important to keep water in the pitchers!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I believe that the digestion is actually done by bacteria that grows in the pitchers. As Miss K stated, they do not produce their own digestive juices.
I never worry about the water levels in the pitchers and they seem to do fine. However, they might be a bit more vigorous if I did ensure there was water in them at all times. I think that, here in the Willamette Valley, they get plenty of nutrition in the spring before the dry summer season starts.
i love seeing your lowe’s hauls! good luck with opening your nursery one day!! :D
also you might still not have a purpurea 😂 this lowkey looks like a rosea to me? but they’re pretty much the same, rosea just has pink flowers!
Andrew, thank you! I'm eager to see the flower, you may be right!
There's a LOT of hybrids of Sarracenia. Many of the hybrids are beautiful.
Yes! I plan on starting a bog at some point, staring sarracenia!
Most/all the species are inter-fertile, so hybrids are common in nature as well. Very dedicated breeders can spend decades working to get a hybrid with the characteristics they desire.
thanks for the info! i found one of these while out fishing, didnt even know that any carnivorous plants were native to Maine... found out its one of these guys, cant wait to keep one now! :)
just curious about the water, anyone know if water from a well or pond would be alright?
It's hard to say for sure without testing it. You want to grab a TDS meter, they are only like 10-15 bucks on Amazon. You want to look for water that is under 50 PPM. If it's any higher than that it can harm your plant long term. Some natural water is okay but most of the time you will need distilled, rain or water from a reverse osmosis system.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub thanks! ill look into it. the one i found in the wild is growing on a floating island in a pond, thats why i was curious about ponds, but ill test my water sources to be sure before attempting to keep one anyway
Please try not to take from wild.......
@@tinapitts6222❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊
The most difficult carnivorous plant at least which I'm aware of is the cobra lily. Need to keep there roots cool. Don't think I can grow them well in sunny Florida.
I always chuckle when I come across Sarracenia NW description. I think it echoes what your saying exactly. Lol.
www.growcarnivorousplants.com/darlingtonia-californica/
You might be able to, but it would be difficult. It is hard enough here in the Pacific Northwest, where we are close to where they are native. Darlingtonia usually grows in seeps, where there is a continuous flow of water over the roots. The high sun and high air temperatures are not going to hurt the plant - many of them see such conditions in nature.
The biggest problem, according the Jeff at SNW, is that the plants in artificial environments are prone to catching a virus that kills them.
"Cobra Lily" is not original to SNW. The term was used from about the time the plant was first discovered.
These things are so funky looking lol. Just a death hole on top of a huge tube. Very cool looking, just got one today, super exited to find one as they are not common where I live in stores
Hahaha! "Death hole on top of a huge tube" someone put that in the dictionary as the official definition of a Sarracenia Purpurea! I was excited to see them at mine too, I've never seen them again!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub haha!
I have a couple of these I brought home from work at a garden center. I bought one of them just about a week ago, and we had it overwinter in the unheated back half of the shop. The other one I have, I brought home in August or so, and I had it in my house for the winter, so it never went dormant. Is the older one just a goner at this point, or is it okay to miss a winter dormancy?
It will probably be okay. Missing one dormancy period might deter growth a bit but it should be okay.
Don't panic
I like how you say that this would be your goto carnivorous plant for an outside plant if you have cold winters. I would have to agree. thas species is found natrurally growing as far north as minnissota and central canada. I know that in Minnissota it can get as cold as -20f for weeks at a time in the winter.
They definitely seem to be the most resilient to cold weather. Really cool plants!
Thanks for the tip. I really need this
Of course Ruthcel! Glad I could help!!
One of my plants like this is growing a long flower stalk and I’m trying to figure out what to do about it. Can you help me?
I wouldn't do anything. Just let it grow and enjoy! NO need to cut or anything.
can you also show an update on this sarracenia purpurea repotting? Thanks
I have done a more recent update, ua-cam.com/video/2LhbPl27oVQ/v-deo.html However, I want to do another as it doesn't even look like this anymore it has grown so much! I'll do an update again soon! It's such a cool plant!
Hi thanks for your video. I just got mine and I’m in a cold zone 6a. Right now I have it under grow lights in a tray of water. How do I help it go into dormancy while inside? If I put it gradually into a cold windowless garage will that be ok for them? I don’t have another area in my house that stays cool
Hey, so if i buy plants in winter that aren't dormant, is it better to skip dormancy this year? Or can i gradually acclimatise them into dormancy?
I usually skip if I buy them in middle of winter and they seem to he actively growing.
Love this video, thank you. How about taking clones/cuttings from them to make more of them? Can you do that with these?
I don't have a ton of experience propagating purps, however I think the only way to do this is with divisions. You can wait until it grows a bit then divide the rhizome up. That's usually the best way to propagate. Not as exciting, but still a way to make lots of plants!
Can you talk about how to care for them in the winter months?
They do require winter dormancy. So, they need to stay below 50 degrees F. It's important that the plant is protected during this time, especially if temps go below freezing. They are super hardy and can survive pretty cold temps, but you can definitely help them out by overwintering them. Putting pineneeds, bark or like a landscaping cloth over the soil can help insulate the plant during winter. If it gets snowed on, leave the snow on top, this also helps insulate. Dormancy should be around 3 months which usually works pretty well with normal winter months. The ideal space is an unheated building where you can overwinter it and keep it out of the elements. Hopefully that helps!
How would I wash the peat moss? On the package says no nutrients but the the tds meter says 260ppm. I have to use like 2 gallons of clean water to wash that away for a single pot.
That's pretty high for no additives. When I buy mine it's typically around 90 then I soak it down to around 30 or so. Then the next few times I water, I flush. 260 is going to take a lot more water to rinse. I might try finding some peat that has less TDS out of the bag.
Im in southeast mi. Definitely gets below freezing here. Could i keep it outside and let it do natural cold dormancy or will i kill it?.
You would need to overwinter the plant. You can use winter cloth to cover then add pine needles or whatever else on top to insulate it. Once it gets that cold, they go full dormant and light is not needed.
So.... Everyone says it -has- to be outside, but... can I have it inside and have it survive? Because our winters get very very cold, suck as below degrees...... and its not at all very bright here since its dark most hours of the day in the winter time.......
I am growing mine inside. Should I keep water inside my pitchers?
Ya, it does help to have maybe a third of it filled up with water. It's okay to fill them up, but not necessary. If you imagine them out in the rain, they definitely get filled up occasionally.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub The pitchers have evolved with a natural drainage. If you overfill them, the excess just runs out.
I’ve started collecting rain water to rinse out the medium
Rainwater is perfect!
Hello, I need help with how to water this plant. I bought a teracota pot (it’s small) and I put the media as described by you, but I’m unsure of watering. I put the pot inside my bowl and filled with distilled water, is this okay for my plant?
I would try to avoid teracotta as it can leach minerals into the soil. For water, I like to tray water. I try to keep the tray pretty wet with these guys. They really seem to suck up a lot of water!
plastic pots are the best to use for to many reasons to list. I live in NYC. I grow mine most of the year on a south facing windowsill so they get a ton of light. and for watering I bottom water by use of a deep tray filled to the level that's about a smidge above halfway on the plants pots. so if the pot is 5 inches tall, the water is about 2.5-3 inches deep. the pro's grow the new world carnivorous plant species grow them in tall, deep pots. it would seem pointless since these plants have relatively no roots. this is done so that the actual potted up plant, when put into the water tray, isn't submerged in the water. their shallow root systems primarily keep to the top most layers of medium. since sphagnum moss and pearlite hold water but allow good drainage and air circulation, the roots and other underground plant parts, fly trap corms, the central growth point on American pitcher plants, etc. have little risk of rotting. keep in mind that the level of water in the tray should be high enough to allow good capillary action and wick the water up to keep the whole of the potting medium sufficiently wet, about halfway up the side of the pot usually is enough and at the very least should be at least 3 inches. always a bit over halfway at the very least. any less impleads the capillary action you want and on a hot day outside in full sun the water could fully evaporate to quickly. drying out the plant and the medium is a sure fire way too kill these plants fast. when choosing pots and such remember to figure in enough space above the water line so the plant isn't growing submersed in mud. using this kind of set up, with a potting medium consisting of 2 parts peat moss (DON'T USE ANY BRAND THAT ADDS FERTALIZER! SHOULD SAY ON BAG THAT IT'S GOOD TO USE WITH CARNIVORUS PLANTS) 2 parts pearlite, 1 part chopped long fiber sphagnum moss, 1-1.5 parts activated charcoal, and 1 part course grade horticultural sand. with tall enough plastic pots and a deep enough water tray. placed in full sun for most of the day (after the plants are acclimated of course) and these plants will pretty much take care of themselves. all I do is keep the water tray filled to the right height and provide protection to the whole setup for the plants winter rest and that's it. they are the easiest plants to grow. they evolved to be bad asses. i mean a plant that hunts and eats it's pray raw and while it's still moving. they can handle a lot. all you need to do is provide the basics and that's it.
I use plastic pots I feel it's better for water control of your plants
What size pot is that and where did you get it from? I'm looking into getting some Sarracenia but I don't know what size pot to get
This was actually just a plastic bowl at Walmart. Works great! I just had to drill some homes in the bottom. Was able to fit 3 small purpurea in it!
I got a purpurea (I think anyways) from lowes and it was kinda knocked over in the box and it had dirt in the pitcher. Do I need to do anything about that or should he be okay?
It will probably be okay. If you can easily get it out, I probably would. if you really have to dig and possibly harm the plant, I wouldn't worry about it. The new pitchers will catch insects.
I love this sarracenia the most, and really love your video, could you please make more videos to purpurea venosa, like feedind, digesting and like them grow? :)
I'm due for an update on my purpurea, I'll do one before it goes into dormancy for sure!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub nice :)
Tray watering is great, but remember this species uses rain, water in the wild, to keep water in its pitchers. You need to be sure each pitcher has water inside. They do not have hoods as many pitchers do , allowing rain water to accumulate in the pitchers. In this species, the insect falls into the rain water and drowns, then the plant begins its digestion. The fluid in this species is not digestive fluid produced by the plant. It’s rain water or in captivity, distilled water. Don’t let the inside of the pitchers be empty.
What are the tiny narrow leaves at the bottom for? I got mine from a reptile convention and it made me think it was some sort of hybrid but I guess it's not.I noticed that these ones don't grow and are also hollow like the typical leaves
I think what you're referring to are the small starts. Some of them mature into bigger pitchers but some of them just stop growing small. I'm not sure how the plant decides which to keep small and which to grow big. But I don't think they are anything other than just small pitchers.
I got some bareroot plants and planted them up about 4-5 weeks ago, like you repotted yours here. Now I have two stems, well, one stem with a ball on the end, like a flower bud.
The other looked at first like a grass leaf, but now has some twists in it and seems to be developing into a leaf out from one side of a stem, the tip almost looks like it has another leaf forming on the end.
It's my first time growing these, so not real sure what I should expect. Could one of these be a flower stem and is the other the way the pitchers form? Your plants in the video have small pitchers and look like that's how they form, and just get bigger as they grow. If that's how they grow, any ideas on what might be growing on my plants?
Hey Stephen, it's kind of hard to know for sure without seeing pictures. But it definitely sounds like you are describing new pitchers. I'd have to see a photo of the flower to know for sure however.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Since I asked about this, bot stems have turned brown and died back. I sure hope these will grow back again.
Really good video great plants they look pretty healthy for coming from Lowe’s! You can definitely tell that they needed a repot sphagnum moss gets really brown when it’s just about done. Loving your videos and I really hope your dream comes true!
Thank you my friend. I was pretty surprised at how healthy they were too. They must had just arrived.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub right cause we all now how well Lowe’s takes care of there plants especially carnivorous ones.
Ya. In their little side attraction box where they get neglected...
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I know!! Poor babies I just I’ve carnivorous plants so much I can’t imagine someone miss treating them 😢
You might have mentioned in the video but when is the best time to repot your plants. I see someone mentioned when the sphagnum moss goes brown.
Best time to repot is at the end of.dormancy or beginning of growing season. Usually February, March ish.
When they are dormant 👍👍
Do we add water inside the plant jar
You definitely can and probably should. A little bit of water (1/3rd of pitcher) can really help the digestive enzymes do their magic!
i wounder what type of purparea ssp or sp
To be honest, I'm really not sure.
Hello way my sarracenia has Brown on the tip of its leaves Please help me
It's not uncommon for some of the pitchers to turn brown and die over time. Sometimes, brown tips can be a sign of too much sun/light.
When you mean hardy like -15 degrees are you talking in farenheit or Celsius?
I'm sorry, should have clarified that. I always use Fahrenheit.
I found mine out in New Jersey I've never heard of anybody having their plant flower I know they do in the wild ...let me kno
They definitely flower! Not until they reach a mature age, but definitely do flower.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHubsince I collected mine from the wilds of the pine Barrens where it's on fire as I type right now I don't know the age but I consider it a plant rescue they looked sad because of the ghost Forrest around them. They look so much better just can't wait for the day they bloom. Also rescued by accident a dozen sun dews which did bloom for me and made me very proud nice little white flowers which repotted themselves in 2 other pots holding Venus fly traps.
Look good in that bowl.
Hi. How can I fertilize my sarracenia smoorii in a flat where there are no insects?
I would do a diluted Maxsea 16-16-16 mixture. Usually people put 1/2 tsp of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Maxsea - amzn.to/3xL2cBs Fill the pitchers up half way with the diluted mixture. I've seen people have really good results
Where did you get your plants?
Most of my plants I've unboxed and showed where they come from. But, all over. Big box stores, nurseries, personal sellers. Little bit of everything. Any plant in particular you were curious about?
in the woods
Mine's dying ,How do I save it?
It's so hard to diagnose a dying plant with no information. If you could provide care details and what the plant is doing, I might be able to assist!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I had it in a shady place catching bugs and it turned brown and dried out.
They like full sun and a lot of light. I'm guessing they just didn't get enough light. Acclimate them slowly to the full sun, but once they are acclimated, they can take about as much sun as you can give them.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Thanks I will.
What is the pot mix you are using
Same as my flytraps, peatmoss, perlite and silica sand.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub You made a comment about the size of the sand grains. I think 10 mesh through about 16 mesh is ideal - preferably a mix of the sizes.
Hey I have a question, do you continue to water during the winter? If I were to have a water tray in the winter it would turn into a huge ice block overnight. Also, do they need light when in dormancy? Can I just put it in a unheated garage for the worst parts of the winter. I have leucophyll so it’s not the exact same plant FYI. Also should I still mist the soil if I have a water tray or will the water soak through the soil from the bottom
Yes, they definitely still need water in the winter. Its close to the same rules, you will just notice they use much less water and don't dry out as often. It's okay for them to freeze from time to time but if you know they are going to be frozen for an extended period bringing them into an unheated garage might be best. They are pretty cold hardy and can probably survive the freezing, but if it gets really bad, might want to bring them in. It also depends on snow, if you have them covered in snow, the snow will actually insulate them. IT really just depends on how cold it is and how long the freeze will last. I do try to keep them with light, even when moved into the garage, if they could be close to a window, that would be best. Put them back outside as soon as the temps become regular again. I try to top water my plants during dormancy since they don't need nearly as much water. But, if you need to you can tray water them, they can be more susceptible to root rot during winter time since the water doesn't dry out as often.
If you are in USDA zone 7 or colder, the plants can be left outdoors if they are sprayed with a fungicide and then well covered with a thick layer of mulch. But if you only have a few plants, it is far easier to move all of them into an unheated garage or shed. The main purpose of doing so is to protect the dormant plants from dehydration by wind.
It's best not to even tray water in the winter
They don't need any light as mine don't and they are healthy
Is that really fine sand or coarse? And are you going to make a video when you “winterize” these? I also live in the PNW and just got some of these! I’m curious what I should do to prepare for this weather.
It's pretty coarse. The bigger the grade the better. If it's too fine it clumps and doesn't help much. They need to be in the cold for a few months, probably from now until March or so. But, they should be kept between 30 and 50. They can freeze a few times just not all winter. The best solution is an unheated room or building like a garage. If they stay below 40 degrees they really don't need light due to the suspended state they are in. It's tricky in the PNW to keep them around 30, but you can overwinter and insulate them to help.
Awesome! Should I also water the flytraps?
Hey Jordy! What do you mean when you say water the flytraps? Do you mean put water in the pitchers?
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Yes, that is exactly what I mean!
Yes! I do keep a little bit of water in the pitchers. Usually the rain takes care of that but if they dry out I'll add a bit to the pitchers. About 25% full.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub The pitchers of these open topped varieties have evolved to have a drainage hole at the proper level inside the pitcher. If you overfill it, the excess will drain out.
I would like to ask you one question, idk if you know the solution or what, few month ago I bought 2 difference plants of sarracenias and the fly trap one and I transplanted the 3 in a big recipient with no holes like a little swap I could say,one week later or so, they start growing mealybug (idk if this is the real name in English (in Spanish is cochinilla algodonosa) and I went crazy..I take them off there, and clean them just with water, taking all of this bugs out and transplanted again with new mix of peatmoss into singles pot, but days later they keep growing this bugs and they died 😭😭😭 the fly trap was the only survivor, so my question is if you know why this bug appear in the plant or at least how can I kill this bugs without damaging the plant, thanks.
Hello John, without seeing photos and being able to diagnose it's hard to for sure give great advice. However, if you are sure it's mealybugs, you can check out this article from the ICPS on how to get rid of and manage mealybugs! www.carnivorousplants.org/grow/pests/Mealybugs
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub yes I'm 100 porcent was mealybugs I will check it thanks!
This is a bit late but I see you never received a thorough reply. One of the big mistakes that people make is that they think these are swamp plants. They are not, they grow in bogs where they have a continuous flow of low mineral water at all times. You do not want stagnant water in the bottom of the pot.
Make sure your pot has a decent drainage hole in the bottom, you can partly plug it with some loose long fiber sphagnum moss if you wish but I never bother to do that. Either top water and let the excess run away or put them in a tray that will not get the level more than half way up the pot and water the tray, making sure that some of the water runs off. By using low mineral water, the runoff will ensure that the mineral content will not build up too much.
I suspect the mealy bugs were due to the stagnant water in your pot. You didn't say whether you were growing the plants outdoors or on a window sill - but these plants need to be grown outdoors in full sun for best growth. In the outdoors, there are natural predators that help keep pests in check.
You can kill the mealy bugs using neem oil. It the infestation is not too bad, you can remove them one at a time using a cotton swab moistened with hydrogen peroxide. I seem to recall that pyrethrin is also safe if used as directed. The treatment may require repeating one or more times.
@@buggsy5 thanks for answer ^^
what do i do if there leaves are closed but not all the way like the front leaves arnt opening but there a hole in the top
Hmm, that's unusual. Seems like maybe there is some kind of deficiency. Maybe wrong soil, not enough water or maybe even not enough light? Also, are the pitchers squished close together? Sometimes when they grow too close, they kind of pinch each other off.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I think its because I repoted it while it wasn't in dormancy will it die?
How many times do I water these plants
I tray water them. When the tray goes dry I fill it up with 1 inch of water. They like to stay pretty wet.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I keep about 2 - 3 inches of water in my trays, depending on how tall the pot is. I am slowly migrating to taller pots only. You are probably OK if you don't have the water level more than half way up the pot. Of course, if you are using a pot only 2" to 3" tall, the water level will have to be lower.
Keep it in a tray of DISTILLED water 1-3 inches high. In winter water every week or 2
@@monke1919 Reverse osmosis and rain water are also fine. But if you are using roof runoff, make sure no chemicals are being leached out of the roofing.
Buy a cheap TDS meter - they cost less that $25 shipped. Make sure the dissolved solids are less than 50 ppm.
@@buggsy5 I use zero water which is really good for my plant watering and humidifier
Can a sarracenia purpera venosa live on a windowsill?
Probably not. If the window was open and they were getting 8-10 hours of sun a day, it would probably be fine. They might do okay in a window but the glass does filter out a lot of the important UV that the plant needs. I'd recommend a light or keeping outside in full sun. Also, they do need a cold winter dormancy period for longevity.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub ok, because when I watched a sarracenia northwest video about them it said that they grow well on windowsills. And how long would it survive without dormancy?
@@monke1919 Probably two or three years. The SNW video probably mentioned that the plants should be allowed the cold winter dormancy - otherwise they slowly decline and then die. The purpurea and rosea species are slow growing and remain rather small, so if you must grow a Sarracenia indoors then they are the best choices.
Put the plant in a south or west facing window where it gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight - the more the better.
Guess you'll be standing the bowl in a few inches of water or otherwise wetting the medium?
Yep! Its sitting in an aluminum disposable dish with about an inch of water.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub You shouldn't use aluminum or other metal tray for your plants. The metal can leach into the water and harm the plants over time.
It does not have digested juices
This is a widely debated topic. However, the most recent research suggests that there is.
Why not just plant the ball?
Mine attracts ants, they swarm it but never seem to get caught, they walk in and straight back out of the tubes again.. it's quite disappointing, I think my Sarracenia needs to become a man and grow more hairs lol
Lol, it's strange how some of these plants have evolved to capture certain insects. They seem to do better with flying insects than crawling. I've seen insects crawling out of them before too. But they do a really good job catching wasps and yellow jackets. I see a lot of them in mine, flies too. Not many crawling bugs though.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Is it possible for Sarracenia to over feed? I was wondering how much energy it takes to "digest" bugs, or even what counts as too much.
I don't think so, mine get pretty full. I noticed when it rains, sometimes the dead bugs will come out the top kind of flushing them out. I think as long as they are outside, they should be fine!
I love how every other word was “uhhh” and “umm”
Yeah, I've really had to work on that. Appreciate the constructive criticism...
Way too long and repetitive.
Fair enough, I appreciate the feedback. Been working on getting the video times down a bit.
The repetition might well be useful for beginners, at whom this video is aimed.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub just a thought, no need to explain things like you mounting your phone on the tripod, just do it, we don't care lol
You'll get used to the video, talking, all that, it takes time. It's just a suggestion, it's pointless filler, we are here to learn how to care for our carnivorous plants. But thank you for the content, it is really helpful and I've learned a lot.