Saturn Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- Saturn S-series Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
Disclaimer:
This video is not meant to be a definitive how to.Always consult a professional repair manual before starting your repair.I am not responsible for any problems that you might incur by watching or following this video.Follow at your own risk.
I appreciate you so much you have provided invaluable information on these cars. As an s series owner in 2023, your content have saved me many expensive trips to a mechanic. Thank you SO much!
Took apart my in laws car thinking the bushing was bad. noisy when braking.Found the threaded end of the sway bar loose in the bar.going to attempt to weld it. Got Duralast bushings too. Had more than few stronger words than stinker for a stiff bushing though. I'm glad i watched your video. You are truly a quality mechanic. Thanks Richpin
They do come in handy.
Saturn master
That is a great idea.It is very difficult to loosen a bolt in a few minutes that has been in one place for 8-10 years.
I've learned a lot about my SC2 from your videos so again thanks a bunch.
Smashing tutorial :-)
Really like the winch to take the pressure off, nice touch :-)
I noticed you re-greased the control arm bolt, but didn't mention it. I have a friend who's wife is on her 3rd Saturn. He drives the second one, and they gave the 1st one to their daughter. The 1st one was t-boned by a transit bus, and repaired years ago and is now over 600,000km and still runs great.
Great video Rich! I like that "Craftsman" cheater bar!!
Great Video as usual Rich. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Richpin! Have a little problem maybe you can help me with!?
I replaced my R/F lower control arm last week, and was pretty sure I tightened the nut to the sway bar bushing!!? Anyway, driving today, coming up the street to the house, as started over the first of 4 speed humps before the house, started hearing a slight knocking, light thump or loud click noise, each time I hit the brakes!
Took the wheel of when I got home, and found that the nut came off the end of the sway bar!!😱 I know it's a 24mm, socket to remove, but do you happen to know the actual nut size for replacement!??? Still appreciate all your videos!! Always helpful on my 96 SL2!! Thanks!
I am not sure what the size of that nut is.
Thanks for the video. My daughter just smacked a concrete barrier and the sway bar washer got yanked through the control arm. Your video showed me how it was all supposed to be. Thanks!
Great video , Can I ask name for buying the bushing only ?
Or If Amazon or other big stores sales online , answer is highly apreciated
I hope I never have to do that job.
Bought an air chisel last week. Already found a few fun ways to use it. My air compressor is small... so I was hesitant to try air tools with only 2.5 gallons. But in short bursts my $15 air chisel works great.
My car stays on the road cause this guy
Richpin,
How closely can I follow your directions to replace the sway bar bushings on my 2006 Saturn Vue?
The big problem there is to try to prevent the nuts in the subframe from breaking loose when you remove the bolts.Lots of penetrating oil weeks before the job and the impact wrench set on low to brake the rust will help.
So a clunking sound indicates a bad ball joint, which I don't have. I do have a moderate to bad shake at 65 mph, but no noises or problems from the steering. I am going to replace the right inner and outer tie rods and also have the front brake rotors turned. These rotors were installed about one year ago and were the best quality and most expensive ($35.00 each ) from Autozone.
Do you need to do alignments once taking out the control arm?
They still are a nice little car.
What are the symptoms of bad bushings? I have a 1996 Saturn SL2 that I have never been able to get rid of the vibration at 65 mph. Even after many wheel balances, new tires and new brake jobs it still will shake at around 65 mph. Do Saturns have ball joints?
I have almost 170K on my 96 Saturn SL2, it still runs like a new car, has a few battles scars on the bodywork from Los Angeles commuting, AC still blows nice and cold with no problems since new, and I get 36 mpg on the highway. I do need to check the oil level every week, I always keep it topped off to the full line. The SL2 has not dripped one drop of oil in the driveway since new. (the first car I have ever owned that did not drip oil!)
Nice vid, I hate to see you using Duralast parts but thanks for the Info. Any special trick to the frame bushings? I have to do them soon.
Hey Richpin, you read my mind. I have a '98 SC2 which has a different setup but close enough! Thanks for the video. Any suggestions on replacing the power window regulator on the driver's side? Same vehicle.
Hi I have saturn sc2 coupe and problem is every I hit a bump or small holes its making a crucking I wonder? Whitch one should I fix ?
richpin, I love all your videos that have been very very helpful,,, however I do have a strange situation regarding mr car overheating. by that I mean when I start my car and idles for about 10 mins. or so,then the antifreeze continues to come out of the resevoir. everytime? why would that be? I changed the radiator and the water pump.
Goood
I heard people complaining about the wide gaps between the panels......please.
Frame bushing.....which one is that.
RichPin - I've got a '99 Saturn S with a bad Right Front wheel bearing. I have so far got knuckle off the car, but it has the spindle and bearing still installed. *** How can I press out the spindle AND the bearing out? *** I bought just a new bearing, but not a new spindle. I was planning on pressing in the new bearing, re-using the spindle. Thoughts ?
You need a press and assorted receivers to do this job wish i had a video for you.
Ok - I have a 12 Ton shop press, what shape or form do Receivers come in? Is there a kit of Receivers? Or something like a Lisle Tool, or specialty tool? I'm thinking maybe various diameters of steel round bar could work, too?
What i use are various size round stock to drive and i have a good selection of old bearings that make good receivers.
So what are the symptoms that suggest you need to replace the control arm bushings?
i have a 96 saturn sl2. could the other bushing on the control arm that you didn't replace , if worn, cause the front end of your car to make squeaky noises when it goes up and down or you go over speed bumps. I'm trying to isolate the problem and I think that's where it's coming from I've already lubricated the sway bar bushings and the noise isn't coming from there. its only coming from the driver side.
+Neil Manning It is possible for the rubber to be so dry that it might squeak.
I have not replaced one but i know you have to drill out the rivets that hold them in.
The only way to tell is get under there and check things out.
is it 100 percent necessary to use a winch on the stabalizer bar? or can I get the control arm off without needing to use a winch?
Can't say as i only have done it this way.
+richpin06a been workin on it since 11am almost finished with both sides! thanks for all of your helpful videos
how long did it take for both sides? how bad were the big bolts on the frame? what year is your car?
Although this is dated - no, you don't *have* to use a winch but it does make the job considerably easier. I've taken both bolts out of the control arm and pulled very hard until it can clear the box on the frame that the control arm sits in. Taking it out is easier than putting it back in using that method, so if you are struggling getting it out, do yourself a favor and start winching.
My 99 SL front driver's side tire moves backward in the wheel well when braking and can be pulled all the way back into the rear of the well with my hands. Does this indicate a sway bar issue since the sway bar prevents this type of movement? I think it can be the lower control arm moving as well.
I found the issue is from the bolt coming out of the hollow stabilizer bar. the bolt was still screwed onto the other side of the control arm, but the bolt came out of the stabilizer bar. The tire was freely moving back when I brake.
Every time I have the wheels off, or do an oil change, I give the control arm mounts a good dose of spray lube. If and when I have to have them off they should come out like yours. I hope!
I don't think it was complaints that killed Saturn cars, it was bad management. They changed their philosophy and tried to make regular cars like other manufacturers and they got lost. They should have stuck to reliable, cheap and polymer plastic bodied vehicles made in America.
I bought some frame bushings for my sway bar on ebay b/c they were so cheap, you'd have to do this to both sides b/f you replaced those frame bushings (under/behind the radiator area in front/middle).
Just did control arm again after 160, my OEMS lasted 60K at which time I also did the tie rod inner and outers. Its funny b/c after the first 60K change the second set made it to 160K mi (another 100K) and some of that 100K was on unimproved roads 3 days a week, the first 60K was all pavement driving!!! Go figure. The 160K change had less wear/play in the ball joints than the 60K change, actually could'a went further.
generatrix999 Well that would be the idea do all of them and you also get what you pay for on ebay, there probably rejects from the factory and some idiot bought them so he can make money from suckers. You have 1 dead cylinder in your car you just dont rebuild that one cylinder, you do them all, alot of funny cheap skates in this world, and they wonder why the parts they put in hasnt improved anything?
Sure the Saturn SL2 is not a perfect car, as no car is. The gaps between the body panels are necessary, the polymer plastic panels contract and expand more than sheet metal body panels. Road and wind noise are common to the SL2. I would describe the brakes as only adequate. There is no spring on the rear trunk lid so your trunk will slam down if you are not careful. I have owned my 96 SL2 since new and the only parts I have replaced are the alternator, coolant temp sensor and exhaust system.
Yes i put fresh grease on the bolt before i put it back on.
Over rough ground you can hear a clunk.
How lomg did it take you do do it?
The support bushings that hold the bar to the subframe.
It could be the cap on the expansion tank is not sealing.
What i heard was a slight clunking over rough roads and dirt driveway.
if you like it quick and dirty, you could burn the bushing out with a torch
Who were these people that complained about it so they stop manufacturing.
I'm trying to do my 95 sl1 my trailing arm broke on my driver rear
Mine are still find after 170,000 miles.
I replace the whole control arm every 60-70K since the ball joints start to wear in and around that milage.
The control arm looks just like a Ford design
Yeah, I realized that from the regulator I pulled out of another one
Could you do a video on driving up those car ramps? When I drive my car onto those things it's like a comedy act.
Great idea i will do one.
Alternatively use the vice and a socket of similar size to outside diameter of bushing to press bushing in.
$19 WOW that is a bargain.
Not a quality repair, do so much work and change only one rubber. To change it was necessary all lever on new, and to forget problems with its removal for a long time