The pedal that you did not know what it does is a differential lock. If you get stuck it locks both back tires together and they spin at the same speed so you can get unstuck.
I've spent a lot of time on this style of Ford tractor. My dad had a couple when I was a kid, a 5000 being the one we used the most. The first tractor I ever bought was just like yours. They're reliable and fairly easy to work on. My favorite thing about them is how easy it is to add a hydraulic remote.
I have a lot of memories driving tractors with my grandpa. He never had a big tractor but he always had something. I have seen how easy it is to add remotes. Hope to be adding one this summer. Thanks for the comment.
Just a note of caution here. I noticed here in the U.K. we would need to have a metal plate between the mud guards and foot plates to prevent you getting your foot or long coat caught in the wheels. Just be aware.
Great choice of tractors, I’ve got one of these that sat in a field for years, I put a new battery and fuel in it and it fired right up, great work horse!
Good tractor choice. Manuals and parts are available. I go online for my parts now. I have a 1973 Ford 2000 with FEL that I bought used in 1986. It is a great tractor and generally easy to repair. I've gotten a bunch of attachments from Craigs list. Its often cheaper to buy a dead tractor with a bunch of attachments, than it is to buy the attachments individually. I then fixed the tractor and sold it for a profit while keeping the attachments(harrow, cultivator, and frozen tiller). Other handy attachments are a 3 ph boom, counterweight, and a double plow. Good Luck, Rick
Worse thing you can do is run a bush hog below its rated 540 rpm. There is a mark on your tach for engine rpm that matches the pto 540 rpm. Run at that speed. If your tach doesn't work bring throttle to max governor speed then back off about 1/2". That will be close.
@@johnsadler8637 It's marked on the tach. Look for the PTO icon and it will have 540 printed right below it. Go up from that to the corresponding RPM mark.
@@amossnowdaharleyman9179 Interesting. I remember our 4000 was 1800, but don’t remember how I found that out. Older Fords had a line on the tach, but I don’t remember seeing it on the 4000 back in the day or on my current 3000. I’d run out and look, but there’s 1,000 miles of running involved right now. Thanks.
I had one of those and it was a gas burner. Good tractor but I sold it and kept my Ford 3600 diesel with power steering, because I did not need 2 tractors and needed the cash more. Both are good tractors. I still have the 3600.
That is the(differential lock). If you get stuck, you then step on that with the heel of your foot, and it will lock together the rear wheels and the wheel that was not spinning will then receive power and now with both rear wheels receiving power you will get out of your stuck situation in most cases. Again you only step on it when one of the rear wheels is spinning and you are stuck.
That looks like my 72 Ford 3000. To make sure, check the ID plate located under the hood (where the battery is). It is located to the right of the rear hinge attach point. It is a small almost foil like plate about 2" X 3". It may be covered by paint, use some solvent or paint remover to make it visible. Those are good tractor, just a couple of areas to address when it comes up. The injector pumps like to leak at the lever shafts enter the pump at the top, an easy cheap fix usually involves removing the pump, but can be done with pump in place if you are REAL CLEAN while you do it, just watch out for the "tombstone" setting of the pump. Also, those Lucas generators will quit after a while, it is best to change it over to an alternator at that time, there are kits for cheap to do this. Nice tractor.
Those are serial numbers. There are 2 sets there. 1 set on the engine block and one set on the transmission. I have used them to look up all the information. I was able to find a copy of the original build sheet.
Make sure you're high enough on RPM's for running implements such as a bush hog. It sounded like you weren't high enough RPM when you were bush hogging in the end of the video.
Good Tractor But check serial numbers...It may not be what you were told it is...Year wise or model...Looks like a highway tractor repaint.. Rops will have to be a universal add on or a custom build....but find out for sure what you got first and hope you didn't get burnt....
One of the best tractors ever built. Do not put a loader on that tractor. Front axle is not heavy enough. You will snap it in the center. Possibly the only weak point of the tractor. I saw an overrun clutch on the back, you don’t need that, take it off. That tractor has a live PTO. When you mash the clutch pedal it will stop power to the PTO
Saw the overrun clutch too. Unless something is wrong with pto, that hand clutch below the left hand side will be all you need. However, if it is working, that is independent pto, meaning the foot clutch won’t stop the pto. Our 4000 was like this one. My 3000 has transmission pto and the rotor momentum will run me another 10-20’. I have and really appreciate the overrun clutch.
Great first tractor. Front end loaders are hard to find original. I bought one from Westendorf they may make one to fit a Ford 3000 they also make nice canopies. Having rear remotes is handy, Steiner has dual remotes set up for about $600. $400 for single.
Just about everything you operate with the PTO will operate at 540 pto rpms. I don't think you were at 540 rpms cutting brush. I don't know what the engine rpms would be on that model Ford.
Hay muchos lugares en línea. No sé si envían a México, pero vale la pena mirar. Aquí hay un par que uso. Amazon tiene repuestos para los tractores Ford. Aquí hay otro, antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/search?isort=globalpop&lbc=steinertractor&method=and&p=Q&ts=parametric&uid=881458277&w=*&af=model%3a3000%20br1%3aford
That's not a 1969 3000. It's a later model, probably a 1972 or later. There are numbers stamped into the transmission housing behind the starter that can tell you when it was made plus the serial number. Find those numbers and I can tell you exactly when it was made.
@29:11 Homestead it has the wrong injection pump and tin work to be a 1969 model. If it was a 69 model it should have an inline pump and not the later rotary pump.
The pedal that you did not know what it does is a differential lock. If you get stuck it locks both back tires together and they spin at the same speed so you can get unstuck.
Thanks for the comment!
You won’t be able to turn w diff. locked. To unlock it, hit the brakes.
@@2911Homestead Don't press it down while tire is spinning.
I've spent a lot of time on this style of Ford tractor. My dad had a couple when I was a kid, a 5000 being the one we used the most. The first tractor I ever bought was just like yours. They're reliable and fairly easy to work on. My favorite thing about them is how easy it is to add a hydraulic remote.
I have a lot of memories driving tractors with my grandpa. He never had a big tractor but he always had something. I have seen how easy it is to add remotes. Hope to be adding one this summer. Thanks for the comment.
Just a note of caution here. I noticed here in the U.K. we would need to have a metal plate between the mud guards and foot plates to prevent you getting your foot or long coat caught in the wheels. Just be aware.
Thanks
I was with my Grandfather when he bought his 73’ Ford 3000. I still use it. Just changed out the original tires!
Nice!
Great choice of tractors, I’ve got one of these that sat in a field for years, I put a new battery and fuel in it and it fired right up, great work horse!
Nice 👍. We love it.
I like these little tractors back in day
They are a workhorse for sure
The one lever you were pointing at doesn't raise and lower the 3 point hitch, it was the draft/position control.
Thanks
This is nice when you are using the brush hog as it keeps the cutting height the same when you go down into uneven fields.
Good tractor choice. Manuals and parts are available. I go online for my parts now. I have a 1973 Ford 2000 with FEL that I bought used in 1986. It is a great tractor and generally easy to repair. I've gotten a bunch of attachments from Craigs list. Its often cheaper to buy a dead tractor with a bunch of attachments, than it is to buy the attachments individually. I then fixed the tractor and sold it for a profit while keeping the attachments(harrow, cultivator, and frozen tiller). Other handy attachments are a 3 ph boom, counterweight, and a double plow. Good Luck, Rick
Thanks Rick. I appreciate the comment. We are loving the tractor so far. We are looking for FEL now. Not easy to come by even with a tractor.
It’s a differential lock to give it possi traction
Thanks for the comment
That pedal behind your right foot locks the rear end like posi traction
Really good choice of tractor. Very versatile. They make parts for them also. Really that one is in great condition.
Thanks! It is in great condition.
Worse thing you can do is run a bush hog below its rated 540 rpm. There is a mark on your tach for engine rpm that matches the pto 540 rpm. Run at that speed. If your tach doesn't work bring throttle to max governor speed then back off about 1/2". That will be close.
Thanks for the tip
@@2911Homestead very welcome
I understand the 3000 would be 1900 rpm for engine to make 540 pto rpm.
@@johnsadler8637 It's marked on the tach. Look for the PTO icon and it will have 540 printed right below it. Go up from that to the corresponding RPM mark.
@@amossnowdaharleyman9179 Interesting. I remember our 4000 was 1800, but don’t remember how I found that out. Older Fords had a line on the tach, but I don’t remember seeing it on the 4000 back in the day or on my current 3000. I’d run out and look, but there’s 1,000 miles of running involved right now. Thanks.
That little lever on the right side it's the differential lock
Thanks
@@2911Homestead you're welcome
I had one of those and it was a gas burner. Good tractor but I sold it and kept my Ford 3600 diesel with power steering, because
I did not need 2 tractors and needed the cash more. Both are good tractors. I still have the 3600.
We love ours
That is the(differential lock). If you get stuck, you then step on that with the heel of your foot, and it will lock together the rear wheels and the wheel that was not spinning will then receive power and now with both rear wheels receiving power you will get out of your stuck situation in most cases. Again you only step on it when one of the rear wheels is spinning and you are stuck.
That makes sense. Thanks for information
Thanks for the information
Very nice tractor.
Thanks 👍
That looks like my 72 Ford 3000. To make sure, check the ID plate located under the hood (where the battery is). It is located to the right of the rear hinge attach point. It is a small almost foil like plate about 2" X 3". It may be covered by paint, use some solvent or paint remover to make it visible.
Those are good tractor, just a couple of areas to address when it comes up. The injector pumps like to leak at the lever shafts enter the pump at the top, an easy cheap fix usually involves removing the pump, but can be done with pump in place if you are REAL CLEAN while you do it, just watch out for the "tombstone" setting of the pump.
Also, those Lucas generators will quit after a while, it is best to change it over to an alternator at that time, there are kits for cheap to do this.
Nice tractor.
Nevermind about the Lucas generator, I see yours has already been converted.
Thanks for commenting and the tips.
Very good tractor ford 3000.
We agree!
Pedal is the Dif. Lock.
Thankd
It's beautiful
Thanks! She’s a good old machine.
Those numbers on the engine block are the part numbers not the serial numbers they will be on a small metal tag
Those are serial numbers. There are 2 sets there. 1 set on the engine block and one set on the transmission. I have used them to look up all the information. I was able to find a copy of the original build sheet.
Make sure you're high enough on RPM's for running implements such as a bush hog. It sounded like you weren't high enough RPM when you were bush hogging in the end of the video.
Thanks. I don’t think I was. But I have been since this video was done.
@2911Homestead Good deal, just trying to help. Good luck in your endeavors. God bless.
That is the diff lock gear
Thanks. A couple others have commented that also.
Dip lock
That pedled is for locking in the posted traction
Thanks!
Good Tractor But check serial numbers...It may not be what you were told it is...Year wise or model...Looks like a highway tractor repaint.. Rops will have to be a universal add on or a custom build....but find out for sure what you got first and hope you didn't get burnt....
It is definitely a 3000 series , but it probably is a different year. We know the whole history of the tractor. We are only the third owners.
@@2911Homestead Yes i agree a 3000 series, but most likely in the early 70's. I should serve you well just be careful
The serial number can be decoded for model, year/month, factory of origin etc.
One of the best tractors ever built. Do not put a loader on that tractor. Front axle is not heavy enough. You will snap it in the center. Possibly the only weak point of the tractor. I saw an overrun clutch on the back, you don’t need that, take it off. That tractor has a live PTO. When you mash the clutch pedal it will stop power to the PTO
Thanks for the tip. I do think we are just going to buy a new tractor for FEL capability
Saw the overrun clutch too. Unless something is wrong with pto, that hand clutch below the left hand side will be all you need. However, if it is working, that is independent pto, meaning the foot clutch won’t stop the pto. Our 4000 was like this one. My 3000 has transmission pto and the rotor momentum will run me another 10-20’. I have and really appreciate the overrun clutch.
Can u post a vid of u brush hogging?
We do have a video of us brush hogging some.
ua-cam.com/video/sdKM0i_5A0k/v-deo.html
Great first tractor. Front end loaders are hard to find original. I bought one from Westendorf they may make one to fit a Ford 3000 they also make nice canopies. Having rear remotes is handy, Steiner has dual remotes set up for about $600. $400 for single.
Westendorf does have them but they are 10K. Probably just going to get another tractor to complement this one.
Just about everything you operate with the PTO will operate at 540 pto rpms. I don't think you were at 540 rpms cutting brush. I don't know what the engine rpms would be on that model Ford.
I wasn’t. I was probably about 3/4 open
540 pto for your tractor should be at 1800 RPMs on your motor. Those diesel motors will last forever.
Dónde puedo encontrar piezas para ese tractor tengo uno acá en México me interesa saberlo por favor gracias
Hay muchos lugares en línea. No sé si envían a México, pero vale la pena mirar. Aquí hay un par que uso. Amazon tiene repuestos para los tractores Ford. Aquí hay otro, antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/search?isort=globalpop&lbc=steinertractor&method=and&p=Q&ts=parametric&uid=881458277&w=*&af=model%3a3000%20br1%3aford
That's not a 69 it's a 72 or later 69 Had A two stage clutch
Thanks for the information.
nice tractor . you need a better mike !
Thanks
mic
Your bush hog is set to low
That's not a 1969 3000. It's a later model, probably a 1972 or later. There are numbers stamped into the transmission housing behind the starter that can tell you when it was made plus the serial number. Find those numbers and I can tell you exactly when it was made.
The serial number indicated to me it was a ‘69 but I will look again.
@29:11 Homestead it has the wrong injection pump and tin work to be a 1969 model. If it was a 69 model it should have an inline pump and not the later rotary pump.