BRONCO BADLANDS GETS INTERIOR REMOVED IN THE NAME OF SCIENCE & DYNAMAT
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2024
- Dynamat reached out to us some time ago, asking if we would be interested in trying out their precut sound deadening for the bronco. Of course we said yes. However, I got sick, then we went to Moab, and life happens.
That being said, we are now finally able to get it installed! Our sincerest apologies to Dynamat for taking so long to do these videos. Today's video we will do the cargo area first.
The videos will be broken down like this: 1 video to show you how to REMOVE the panels and 1 video of INSTALLING the Dynamat.
As always, we hope you enjoyed the video. Please like, Subscribe (we have a 3K Subscriber Giveaway coming up!), drop a comment, and hit the notification bells and make sure notifications are one.
See you on the next one! Bye!
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I wore my out several of dads records on my little portable. Found memories.
Between you guys and Ragnor.Kon I feel like a pro!
Finally getting around to watching this one as I am finally replacing that crappy B&O sub and amp. When I did a search for removing the panels in the cargo area you two were the first to come up. Glad to see your channel doing so well and growing bigger and bigger.
Glad I could help
Your videos are the single best source of guidance as I go through the process of upgrading my High package 7 speaker SDARS sound system, staying basic and staying with factory location for amp/sub. My question…is there a step by step guide (video or written) that walks through removing the panel to get to the sub and amp? It seems like some steps weren’t covered here. Thanks for your amazing work and being fun to watch. You guys cracked the code!
ua-cam.com/video/yH5kxqOnWTo/v-deo.html
This should show the panel removal. It was for our Dynamat install
We have removed the entire interior of Jill’s Bronco to install soundeadening.
Much-appreciated you two!
No problem at all
So I had been thinking about Dynamat-ing the Bronco when I receive it... The fact that they now make a kit for it -- with instructions and everything?! -- just pushed me a large step towards wanting to do it even more. I will definitely be watching this series so I can see what kind of trouble y'all run into (or not) with this kit. I'm really excited to see the results!
We just removed the door panels and next the seats and carpet.
I was about to say the 8track. Our Gremlin had one. 🤣 I want to install my 10" sub, is there a remote wire in the right panel and enough room to install an amp, since I have a base model? I'm actually looking at the tail gate box. I'm trying to keep it as family luggage friendly and open space as possible.
We didn’t look too far into it. The B&O system is already in it. When we tear apart the Black Diamond, we will get more in-depth with a stereo install.
I really want to do this to mine. $910 for the full set might have to wait for my next big project.
Great video! I will definitely follow along and go back to these when I finally pull the trigger.
I will be doing this to the Black Diamond for sure A custom stereo will be going in that one as well.
We will be rewebbing all the seat belts as well. Custom color. Watch out for that one too.
@@1Five1Garage yeah I definitely want to upgrade my sound system. I changed out all of the factory speakers, but I haven't added any bass or an amp yet.
I can't see what you do with that!
Hello 1five1, love your vid’s, great detail. I have a ‘23 Wildtrak with the dummy sub/amp and will be installing a Kicker HS10 hopefully in that spot. By chance did you take notice of how much room is in that area (where the B&O sub would be)?
Eek we didn’t measure that - didn’t even think about that tbh :(
Awesome vid. Thanks guys
Our pleasure!
Hey guys! Love your channel and spend a good bit of time on it. Really great content! I have a MY23 Badlands with the sub/amp delete so I added a Focus Amp and a Kicker 6.75" sub. My question is re-installing the rear passenger side panel. Is there a certain way to put it back on? Do I start in the front or the back and work my way in the other direction? This is the part of the process that is making me really nervous. I appreciate any feedback you guys have. Best of luck!
Starting from front and work ur way back is probably your best bet. Take your time with it. It will make some horrible noises when the clips come out n release. That is normal. We do have a trim panel removal set on our Amazon. But here is link just in case GOOACC 19Pcs Trim Removal Tool Set Panel Fastener Clips Removal Automotive Plastic Upholstery Pliers Removal Install Pry Car Tool with Storage Bag for Trim Panel Door Audio Clip Pliers Terminal a.co/d/g55DstU
@@1Five1Garage yeah I had no problem actually removing the panel. I was nervous as hell putting it back on. I actually re-installed it last weekend. Everything is back on the Bronco nice and secure! I appreciate your reply. Cheers guys!
Hi thanks for the video it is very informative. I wanna do the dyno at because the sub in my bronco rattle lots and I also wanna put dynomat around the sub enclosure. So here is my question those clips that don't come out or split you just change them with new ones or you can put them back together. Thanks ahead
If they don’t break you can reuse them. A couple of ours broke and we replaced them with new.
Hey guys, I really like the ditch lights for the Bronco Sport. Do you think you guys could show how the wiring was done? I really don’t want do any cutting or anything crazy on my Bronco Sport.
we will film it soon. :)
Great video
Thanks!
Jill and a bronco! Lucky man!
Yes I am. I count my blessings every day.
I enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work! Thanks for taking the time to do them.
Hi... great video. I’m thinking to replace the B&O sub and you showed me how to get to it. Seems our sub can’t handle some bass tones and really sounds terrible. Some songs it can handle and some not. Not sure if it’s the sub itself or vibration of the plastic parts. Have you experienced this with yours? I replaced the rear 4 inch speakers with 2way jbl and seems much better. Seemed ford put very low quality speakers there. It was like cardboard cones. The sub looks the same. Let me know your thoughts if possible. Thanks again.
Good question?
When we plan on changing out the sub we will be lining the box with dynamate like the ones in the Big Bend speaker pods. We will also be looking into the subs as well. That will be a little more research in what subs are out there. And if we want to put an amp on it.
@@1Five1Garage Thanks for the reply. The sound can be terrible. Looking at your video the way the sub sits behind that plastic wall it could just be bad vibration against the plastic.... not sure. Once I remove the wall I will test to see if it makes the same sound. Thanks again.
Hello. Bronco Family. So I took apart the cargo area of my 2 door following your instructions.... it came apart perfectly (thank you). My goal was to replace the subwoofer. The B&O sub was so thin and cheep I could not believe my eyes. I purchased a kicker shallow mount sub but it did not fit. The B&O plastic housing was custom fit to the B&O sub.. A regular 8 inch sub will not fit it seems. I did learn that although the sub is very cheap it was not causing the problem. It’s the plastic housing itself vibrating. When I held the sub in my hand it was clear. When I attached it to the housing the vibration noise started. When I applied pressure to the plastic it stopped. So thinking now to try the dyno-mat to deaden the vibration. Interestingly I disconnected the sub and the music sounded great without without it. I put everything back together without the sub and now I’ll go back to the drawing board and figure out how to fix. Bad job Ford bad job B&O.
Vintage vinyl 👍
Does this knock down street/wind noise on the metal panels really well? My 20’ Ranger was not good as far as interior noise compared to my 19’ Colorado.
I know from the past we have had great results with Dynamat. Currently we still have the interior out for other modifications.
Great video, Quick question putting in a Ford Factory Trailer hitch, where I need to run the power line from the battery, I was wondering if you have taken out the Driver LH Lower B-pillar trim panel followed by the LH lower cowl trim panel. These are the only 2 areas I am not sure I may BREAK Something before I run the positive lead through the LH side bulkhead grommet service port boot. in the engine bay.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
On the right side there should have been a capped off wire the runs to under the hood as part of a wiring harness for upfitting. Did you happen to notice it?
We did on our Big Bend. :) we haven’t done much with the Badlands as far as exterior items.
Great video. By any chance did you document the part number for the right rear plastic quarter panel?
the removal of the right rear interior quarter panel??
@@1Five1Garage yes sir. Trying to decide if I want to cut out the pocket or buy the B&O qtr panel. Planning on mounting an aftermarket amp there.
Did it help with making the cabin more quiet?
We still have the Dynamat on the floor to install. Then we will be putting the interior back in.
I'm going hopefully 🙏 I'll meet you....
We’ll be there. Somewhere.
Awesome thing about these new broncos is the engine is able to remove there own valves. Good ole Ford for ya
Did you know chevy built in additional aerodynamic downforce for the Corvette when it approaches 80+ MPH? By opening the hood.
You kind of sound like Seth McFarland.
thanks?
Sean… you might have out kicked your coverage 😂
It won’t void warranty if that is what you are asking about
So many tabs and so few screws it’s as if the bronco is a snap together model that requires no tools or glue.
lol it's not just the bronco that is that way, but EVERY car regardless of the maker - does the same thing. It's just how the car world is now. Being in the bodyshop business you see a lot of how cars are put together.
It's not just the Bronco -- every modern car is like this. Screws simply cost more than plastic tabs molded into the panels -- plus it requires more time and labor to insert and tighten screws into holes than it does to snap plastic tabs together. And the tabs will *almost* always last the 10-year lifespan that most manufacturers expect out of their vehicles. So from their perspective, it's win-win.
Usually by the time a tab breaks, the original owner is long gone, and the manufacturer has made their profit and moved on to newer sales. Planned obsolescence.