All CO2 guns require lubrication to seal and function properly. You can use Pellgun oil or automotive clutch/brake fluid. Put a drop or two on the top of the powerlet before inserting it into the gas chamber.This will when the powerlet is pierced lube the seals, which run dry due to the nature of CO2. Sometimes you need to work the action(dry fire) in order to ensure the lubricant works its way onto the seals. Nice video
Thanks Marc. This rifle is slightly different in that there are no capsule seals. Once pierced, all the co2 is released into the retaining tube, it doesn't stay in the capsules, so seals are unnecessary. 🙂👍
Hi Jeff, over time I have dismantled and repaired many Umarex Pistols (not rifles) and have always been amazed at the complexity of the mechanical workings with many moving parts. I am surprised, with the rifle, that you did not get the “boing” point when separating the 2 halves. This almost always happens with the pistols and bits can fly all over and you spend the next half day working out what goes where and if anything is missing. Glad you got it sorted, while lubricating is essential for CO2 guns I would highly recommend that while you have it in pieces you replace the “O” rings as I am sure you are aware that over time, they become hard and depressed so hopefully your rifle will not start leaking again when the lub starts to wear thin. Also replace the seal where the first capsule seats as this is a common leak point. Adding a drop of silicone oil to the head of the capsule when you change it will keep things in good order. Oh, and don’t leave the gun with capsules fitted as the seal will wear out quicker. It’s a good thing about Umarex that all the spares are readily available. Cheers 🙂
Hi Peter, one thing that's different with this rifle is that there are no capsule seals like in a pistol where the co2 stays in the capsule. In the rifle all the co2 is released into the tube that contains the capsules. The only seals are in the firing valve and on the screw-in activator, which is an o-ring. In effect, once the capsules are pierced it's just like a PCP. 🙂👍
Great video mate, thank you for taking the time to create it and share. You may already know this tip but for others watching when you loaded fresh co2 capsules to test for air leaks use one fresh co2 and one that’s already been pierced, that way you only potentially waste one capsule. I’m gonna fix my leak now I have your excellent guide. All the best and thanks again.
go on then john wayne 🤣🤣🤣 for a minute i thought you were going to one handed spin that rifle to load it 🤣🤣🤣🤣 glad you got it fixed mate they are great fun
you trying nick my job 🤣🤣 nice vid 👍👍
It wasn't planned. It was supposed to be a quick 5 minute fix segment for another video, but nobody told the rifle! 😅
All CO2 guns require lubrication to seal and function properly. You can use Pellgun oil or automotive clutch/brake fluid. Put a drop or two on the top of the powerlet before inserting it into the gas chamber.This will when the powerlet is pierced lube the seals, which run dry due to the nature of CO2. Sometimes you need to work the action(dry fire) in order to ensure the lubricant works its way onto the seals.
Nice video
Thanks Marc. This rifle is slightly different in that there are no capsule seals. Once pierced, all the co2 is released into the retaining tube, it doesn't stay in the capsules, so seals are unnecessary. 🙂👍
Hi Jeff, over time I have dismantled and repaired many Umarex Pistols (not rifles) and have always been amazed at the complexity of the mechanical workings with many moving parts. I am surprised, with the rifle, that you did not get the “boing” point when separating the 2 halves. This almost always happens with the pistols and bits can fly all over and you spend the next half day working out what goes where and if anything is missing.
Glad you got it sorted, while lubricating is essential for CO2 guns I would highly recommend that while you have it in pieces you replace the “O” rings as I am sure you are aware that over time, they become hard and depressed so hopefully your rifle will not start leaking again when the lub starts to wear thin. Also replace the seal where the first capsule seats as this is a common leak point. Adding a drop of silicone oil to the head of the capsule when you change it will keep things in good order. Oh, and don’t leave the gun with capsules fitted as the seal will wear out quicker. It’s a good thing about Umarex that all the spares are readily available. Cheers 🙂
Hi Peter, one thing that's different with this rifle is that there are no capsule seals like in a pistol where the co2 stays in the capsule. In the rifle all the co2 is released into the tube that contains the capsules. The only seals are in the firing valve and on the screw-in activator, which is an o-ring. In effect, once the capsules are pierced it's just like a PCP. 🙂👍
@@hftshooter Hi Jeff, That's good to know, was wondering how it worked with the second capsule. Now I understand. Great video, Many thanks. 🙂
Great video mate, thank you for taking the time to create it and share. You may already know this tip but for others watching when you loaded fresh co2 capsules to test for air leaks use one fresh co2 and one that’s already been pierced, that way you only potentially waste one capsule. I’m gonna fix my leak now I have your excellent guide. All the best and thanks again.
Thanks for the tip! Yes, that's what I did in this case. 🙂👍
go on then john wayne 🤣🤣🤣 for a minute i thought you were going to one handed spin that rifle to load it 🤣🤣🤣🤣 glad you got it fixed mate they are great fun
I always thought it looked a little fragile to do that. 😂
Excellent video 👍
Thank you very much! 🙂👍
Martin Bryce, Mole Valley Valves - look it up
I look nothing like Richard Bryers! 😉😄
@@hftshooter but you do sound like Mr Bryce 😂