Now that’s a terrace . Yep saw pasture land put back in production though it would be deep loam but it was not . Came over here to set up my chisel plow . Thanks for sharing!
I did the same thing last year. Made a massive oat/sweet clover greenfeed crop after fall spray, spring chiseling with 1 inch used seed opener spikes 6 inches deep and scraping with well worn rounded cultivator shovels. A lot of water was stored in those fractures and there was little to no ponding after a big rain.
This chisel has become my preferred primary tillage tool. It gives maximum flexibility, dry or wet soil. My video --Blue River 43C2 Soybeans (Certified Organic), shows this same field this year and the soybean crop which has done very well even though we have had a very dry year.
Oh to have that nice stone free soil .Do you ever use buckwheat in your rotation . I double crop buckwheat/ green manure the first year when clearing new land , manure the following spring then plant oats early underseeded with various long term grasses and legumes taking the oats in the milk stage for hay and back up bedding.then work into rotational grazing where possible I hate to work the soil to much as we have stoney / sandy soil . enjoy your videos p.s I have a 66 allcrop I'm hoping to get back to the field soon to harvest clover seed . enjoy the nice weather still waiting for spring here in Ontario .
Thanks for the feedback. Yes we are blessed with relatively stone free soils. Our fields with stones we leave in permanent pasture!! We have friends in Ohio that use buckwheat. We just have not used it here on our farm. We do use oats for grain and hay. So, a big point, and perhaps I will make a video of it, is that our neighbors spend a lot of money planting a cover crop and then spray to kill it. NATURE HAS GIVEN ME A COVER CROP FOR FREE (RELATIVELY). In the field that I was tilling, there was a diversity of winter annuals, a mix of cool season grasses, and two legumes! In addition, the cows had grazed (manure) it extensively late last summer. In most farming procedures, we have done an enterprise analysis which includes goals of reduced cost, positive environmental impact, ROI, and maximum environmental (weather) flexibility.
I am going to have 30-60 acres this year that will be organic. It is rich bottom ground that has been let go for years. What do you recommend for field prep? Are there subsidies available for organic? I am buying this land and will need to make a profit to make the payment. My initial thought was to plow it and put it half in soybeans this spring and the other half in alf alfa this fall. Then I can go to corn in the soybean half next year. Thanks
Organic standards require a rotation...The residue will determine the field prep. If the land has been idle, the plow is an OK option. The last video in the tillage series will be the modern/heavy field cultivator working in my chiseled ground (my preferred approach). There is cost share for organic certification and some assistance available at the FSA. There is also crop insurance available after certification. Good luck.
Which part of the chisel?? The "rigid" shanks (like above) never wear out. Spring loaded shanks can wear on the pivots so that they walk around. The points/teeth last about 250 acres in my clay hill ground before I have to reverse them (they have two points). The rolling cutters on the front will run for quite awhile 2000+ acres. The rolling cutters can break if you hit an obstruction.
Oby-1 Sandy clay gravel is very hard on teeth! Most likely the soft teeth might only make 100ac. There are harder/tempered teeth, but they are much more expensive...hard to tell if worth it 🙁
20 hp is a good generalization. For years I pulled 9 with 120 hp 😉, but our soils have good tilth, AND as a generality I run shallow as in max 8”. My newer setup is 180 hp on 9 shanks 🙂. The new sunflower is substantially heavier and allows a slightly higher speed. Here is a video of it running ua-cam.com/users/shortsS3vyCHaalYQ
It's interesting all the no till guys say you can't build organic matter with tillage, I always thought farming "the old way", diverse crop rotations, livestock manure, grazing, etc would still be better for the soil than just notill corn and beans.
There was an article in Successful Farming this winter to that effect. No-till alone was no better in building soil health than conventional till with diverse crop-rotation.
I've seen strict No-till alone not do so hot, but i've seen no-till with lots of covers in rotation build that soil health very well. Biomimicry and keeping a living root in the soil year round is a major key to excellent soil health, no-till or not.
Now that’s a terrace . Yep saw pasture land put back in production though it would be deep loam but it was not . Came over here to set up my chisel plow . Thanks for sharing!
Man that chisel plow did a nice job! 👍
Thank you. It definitely has a place. The plow will work soil a little bit wetter...without damage. But in drier ground, the chisel is superior!
I did the same thing last year. Made a massive oat/sweet clover greenfeed crop after fall spray, spring chiseling with 1 inch used seed opener spikes 6 inches deep and scraping with well worn rounded cultivator shovels. A lot of water was stored in those fractures and there was little to no ponding after a big rain.
This chisel has become my preferred primary tillage tool. It gives maximum flexibility, dry or wet soil. My video --Blue River 43C2 Soybeans (Certified Organic), shows this same field this year and the soybean crop which has done very well even though we have had a very dry year.
Oh to have that nice stone free soil .Do you ever use buckwheat in your rotation . I double crop buckwheat/ green manure the first year when clearing new land , manure the following spring then plant oats early underseeded with various long term grasses and legumes taking the oats in the milk stage for hay and back up bedding.then work into rotational grazing where possible I hate to work the soil to much as we have stoney / sandy soil . enjoy your videos p.s I have a 66 allcrop I'm hoping to get back to the field soon to harvest clover seed . enjoy the nice weather still waiting for spring here in Ontario .
Thanks for the feedback. Yes we are blessed with relatively stone free soils. Our fields with stones we leave in permanent pasture!! We have friends in Ohio that use buckwheat. We just have not used it here on our farm. We do use oats for grain and hay. So, a big point, and perhaps I will make a video of it, is that our neighbors spend a lot of money planting a cover crop and then spray to kill it. NATURE HAS GIVEN ME A COVER CROP FOR FREE (RELATIVELY). In the field that I was tilling, there was a diversity of winter annuals, a mix of cool season grasses, and two legumes! In addition, the cows had grazed (manure) it extensively late last summer. In most farming procedures, we have done an enterprise analysis which includes goals of reduced cost, positive environmental impact, ROI, and maximum environmental (weather) flexibility.
I am going to have 30-60 acres this year that will be organic. It is rich bottom ground that has been let go for years. What do you recommend for field prep? Are there subsidies available for organic? I am buying this land and will need to make a profit to make the payment. My initial thought was to plow it and put it half in soybeans this spring and the other half in alf alfa this fall. Then I can go to corn in the soybean half next year. Thanks
Organic standards require a rotation...The residue will determine the field prep. If the land has been idle, the plow is an OK option. The last video in the tillage series will be the modern/heavy field cultivator working in my chiseled ground (my preferred approach). There is cost share for organic certification and some assistance available at the FSA. There is also crop insurance available after certification. Good luck.
How long is the wear life of the chisels? I am looking at one of these to help eliminate compaction.
Which part of the chisel?? The "rigid" shanks (like above) never wear out. Spring loaded shanks can wear on the pivots so that they walk around. The points/teeth last about 250 acres in my clay hill ground before I have to reverse them (they have two points). The rolling cutters on the front will run for quite awhile 2000+ acres. The rolling cutters can break if you hit an obstruction.
@@GeigerFarm You answered my question. The wear teeth. Where I am at, there is a lot of rock, mainly gravel below the topsoil. Thanks.
Oby-1 Sandy clay gravel is very hard on teeth! Most likely the soft teeth might only make 100ac. There are harder/tempered teeth, but they are much more expensive...hard to tell if worth it 🙁
Your voice gives me a vibe sorta like you don't want a pickle. You'd rather ride your motorsickle
🙂😂
I didn’t catch what hp you had pulling those 9 shanks? Is it 20 hp per shank as a generalization?
20 hp is a good generalization. For years I pulled 9 with 120 hp 😉, but our soils have good tilth, AND as a generality I run shallow as in max 8”. My newer setup is 180 hp on 9 shanks 🙂. The new sunflower is substantially heavier and allows a slightly higher speed. Here is a video of it running ua-cam.com/users/shortsS3vyCHaalYQ
It's interesting all the no till guys say you can't build organic matter with tillage, I always thought farming "the old way", diverse crop rotations, livestock manure, grazing, etc would still be better for the soil than just notill corn and beans.
There was an article in Successful Farming this winter to that effect. No-till alone was no better in building soil health than conventional till with diverse crop-rotation.
I've seen strict No-till alone not do so hot, but i've seen no-till with lots of covers in rotation build that soil health very well. Biomimicry and keeping a living root in the soil year round is a major key to excellent soil health, no-till or not.
P
*How many HP is that tractor?* #WorldsOkayestFarmer
Tractor rates at 115 pto hp and 100 on the ground.