Replacing Valve Cover Gasket 1993-1997 Toyota Corolla/Celica
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- Опубліковано 30 бер 2023
- This video is made as a guideline to show you how to replace the valve cover gasket and grommets, as well as the spark plug tube seals, on a 1993-1997 Toyota Corolla.
This also applies to the 1993-1999 Toyota Celica.
I hope it was helpful!
Parts used in this video:
- Valve Cover Gasket: www.1aauto.com/toyota-celica-...
- Spark Plug Wires - NGK 8128: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/t...
Tools used in this video:
- ¼ Inch Socket & Ratchet Set: amzn.to/316vN9s
- Pry Bar Set: amzn.to/3G4d56e
- 2lb Hammer: amzn.to/3KHf5B8
Other related videos:
- 7th Gen Corolla Oil Pan Re-Seal: • Oil Pan Re-Seal 1993-1...
- 7th Gen Corolla Radiator Replacement: • How to Replace Radiato...
- 7th Gen Corolla Oil Change: • Engine Oil Change '91 ...
- 7th Gen Corolla Playlist: • 1995 Toyota Corolla St...
Please note that I am not a professional mechanic, nor am I saying that you have to do exactly what I say in this video. Perform these repairs at your own risk! Safety first ;) - Авто та транспорт
I just did the valve cover gasket on my rolla wagon on Saturday and repeatedly visited your channel to look for a walkthrough I figured it out but I'm glad others will have this high quality video as reference
Hahaha looks like I should have posted this a week ago. But at least now you can reference this to make sure it was done right!
Your videos make life so much easier. Great work man!
Thank you!
There's a therapeutic quality to this video. Everything comes apart as it should, and the issue is fixed.
Glad you enjoyed it, and that it was helpful!
@@AutoFixYT i would definitely recommend removing, cleaning off, then resealing the half moon next time.
I neglected mine on my V6 camry and notice the leak continued. Had to go back in and replace the half moons. NOT fun to do on the rear valve cover of a 1MZ-FE.
luckily your car is a 4 banger and easy to access and monitor.
Yeah I worked on a 1MZ, annoying to get to anything on the rear bank lol
Except for the super tight cyd1 sprk plug
Worked exactly like you said in the video. Thanks for the video! Probably saved me a few hundred dollars at the repair shop.
Awesome!
This is a great video. Very detailed. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
Glad it helped!
I had to do this for my 03 Corolla CE, which has the 1ZZ-FE engine.
I also had to replace the rubber gasket in oil cap.
It seems that rubber gets very hard and brittle.
I've heard that silicon gaskets have better heat resistance, but I prefer OEM gaskets.
Nice! Yeah that happens sometimes with oil filler cap gaskets. And yes silicone does but the OEM one is good too so no reason to choose one over the other.
i was waiting for you to make a video on Valve cover gasket i have the same issue on my 96 corolla. i need to change mine. Thank you.!
Perfect timing!
Man so glad I found this channel ❤ I have a ae100 that I'm trying do a alot of maintenance on it as it's been sitting for 2 years. So I've decided to do a full over haul and your videos are perfect mate 👌
Thank you! I have some good ones coming soon, so stay tuned!
Hey man after doing my valve cover I noticed my manifold is cracked. It's a 5afe engine and was wondering do u know if 4afe manifolds are compatible 😅
I don't know anything about the 5A-FE because it never made it in the USA. Try searching on forums and see if it will work. Maybe someone has done the swap before
I have a question, but first, THANK YOU for these outstanding videos.
I have exactly that station wagon. Same year, same color. Mine is a DX. I bought it used in 2000 and have been driving it as my one-and-only vehicle. 198,000 miles now, which is only half-way for these older models. Toyotas are like the old Timex watch, "Takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'." =D
I bought a blue FEL-PRO gasket set (VS 50440 R) almost a year ago, and have been putting off doing the work because 1) it's my only vehicle so I'm fearful of botching the job, and 2) the videos I've seen up 'til now were for other model years, or were lacking in one respect or another. Yours is dead-on in terms of the vehicle AND your teaching method. My good luck! Tomorrow the temperature will be a mild 60 degrees F, so tomorrow's The Day.
QUESTION: In your "Oil Pan Re-Seal" video you used RTV instead of a new gasket. In that instance, you let the RTV set up for about ten minutes. *For this valve cover replacement, should I let the RTV set up, or is it better to 'mold' the RTV by putting the valve cover in place immediately?*
Thanks
Thank you, and good question!
You don't have to wait for the RTV to set, you can go right ahead and put the valve cover back on. However, do wait a few minutes before tightening it down.
eversince we have the corolla, it is also the easiest to replace it. so happy with our corolla ae101. more power to your videos bro good job
Thank you!
Fantastic video, I need to do the same job,for my 97 rolla, it is a lot easier than I thought. Please more videos from the rolla. Regards from Costa Rica
I'll try to keep them coming! Thanks!
7th gen best gen!
Good & thorough & with the positioning of the plug seals. Well done & thank you from Perth Western Australia
Glad it was helpful!
Great comprehensive video. Just what i was looking for. Saved $$ on doing this , many thanks, keep up the great work! Subscribing!
Awesome, glad it helped out!
Thankyou, this was exactly the video that I have been searching for
Awesome!
Great job 👍
I had to do this last December (6 months ago), so I don't know whose video I watched for guidance. Had oil in Cylinder #1, also. After gasket set, plugs, wires, cap and rotor it finally ran right again. A flashing check engine light was a scary sight and it suddenly ran really rough. All sorted out now and at 334,600 miles. In three months I've only driven 1,000 miles and it was about a quarter low. So a little bit of burning oil going on. But no dripping leaks anywhere.
Best regards 👍
Nice! Glad it worked out! And yeah these old Corollas always burn oil. Mine burns a quart every 1000 miles
To clean out oil of tube, put paper towels into tube soaking up as much as you can. Spray break clean and force air into tube to wash out, before removing the spark plug. Less oil going onto cylinder.
Good idea, thank you! My car burns a lot of oil so to be honest I was not very concerned lol
Nice video it is really very clear and specific. Thanks from Puerto Rico.
Thank you!
Just about to do this job & searched this video. So much easier than doing this on a 1FZ-FE Land Cruiser. Thank you for the detail. Wish me luck! 255k miles on my 96 5 speed manual DX & still going strong. Mine just has oil in cylinder #2. Unfortunately mine burns about 2 quarts every 1000 miles but it's been like that since I bought it 65k miles ago. Seems all these engines burn a certain amount of oil.
Yes these cars are super easy to work on! Definitely easier than those Land Cruisers. Those are really cool though! My brother that lives in Europe has a 99 LC with the 1HD-FTE engine, 5 speed manual, amazing vehicle.
As for the Corolla, yeah mine burns just over a quart every 1000 miles. It always has. It does foul out spark plugs prematurely but it runs very happily. I recommend switching to thicker oil if you haven't already. I run 10w-40 in mine all year round. My climate doesn't usually get too cold for it. The manual says you can run 10 weight until 0⁰F. It helped mine burn less and ran a little quieter too!
DONE! Your video is exactly like looking at my own vehicle. =D My '95 Corolla wagon and I THANK YOU, for this project and future forays. My gasket kit is a FEL-PRO blue silicon rubber kit. The parts are surprisingly soft and I had to do a lot of "tightening down again" after my first drive. I have two follow-up questions if you'll indulge me:
Q1. The four FEL-PRO grommets for the acorn nuts that retain the valve cover do NOT have metal caps (the originals did, but weren't reusable). Each acorn nut has a wide bottom, like a small washer. Is that enough? I'm a little concerned considering the softnesss of those grommets and the amount of tightening/squashing required after my first drive.
Q2. Had trouble installing the first two spark-plug-tube rings into the valve cover recesses. Largest socket on hand was 1-1/4". Not quite big enough, and it tore the INNER lip (soft blue silicon plastic) on the first two rings, exposing the bottom edge of what appears to be a thin inner metal tensioning ring. *The damage is limited to the inner/bottom silicon surface of the ring and I don't see any way for oil to escape beyond it... Do you have an opinion?*
I took your advice and OILED rings 3 and 4. They drove in just fine. Thank you, and Duh.
Hi,
I'm glad the video was helpful!
For your first question, it sounds like you may need to replace those metal caps. You can use some washers instead, they'll do the job just fine, just make sure they fit as tight as the metal caps did.
For your second question, I recommend replacing those two spark plug tube seals. Unfortunately, I don't think you can get just those so unless you can find them, you may need a whole new valve cover gasket kit.
I did this job but still have a bad leak in my spark plug tubes. Number 1,3 and 4. I’m going to retry it and make sure I seat the tube seal all the way in, I remember being unsure if it had to be flush with the inside of the valve cover but I’m glad you showed what the seals need to be lined up with. Also gonna do plugs and wires at the same time will update thanks for the vid
You ever done the upper oil pan seal on one of these before? I gotta do mine 😮💨
Yeah make sure everything is well seated and sealed, it can be tricky and annoying on those.
As for the oil pan, no, I've never had to reseal mine. Just the lower.
it shifts into gear, but it often feels like it's rubbing off the gear knob when shifting. No cracking or sound can be felt from the hand.2. it does it in gear. is it from gearbox oil? Yellow ring (synchroniser) malfunction
Could be that but it could also be bad engine mounts. I had such bad engine mounts a long time ago that I actually caused the transmission to pop out if gear because as the engine was rocking, it was maxing out the shifter cables. I therefore ruined that transmission and had to put another one in my car.
Super video
Thank you very much
👍🏻
Can you take the valve cover off again if you but new grommets and stuff if you want to paint the valve cover?
Yes! Just make sure all the gaskets and grommets are still in good condition before you reinstall.
@@AutoFixYT thanks brother..
@@relax9086what type of paint are you looking to use? I wanted to do the same on my '96
@@efil4kizum high temp paint, blue or red actually... I can't decide yet.
How to replace startor motor .
It will be very helpful for corolla owners
I already have a video on that. Not the best, but gets the point across.
My master has a 95 model 1.6 injection corollam. The gear knob seems to get stuck while the vehicle is shifting from 1st gear to 2nd gear. I've done pressure pad tests and it doesn't seem to be finished. So it doesn't miss. It only happens when putting on 2nd gear, why do you think? If you enlighten me, I wish you a good day. It doesn't do it all the time. If we throw it 10 times, it does it in 3 or 4 times. There is no hang-up when it's idle, it's in motion.
Stuck you mean it wont go into gear ?
What about this vid? ua-cam.com/video/6qKrcbAcN7Q/v-deo.html
Amazing video! Was wondering what the two hoses on the back are called? Mine are starting to crack and I was going to replace them at the same time. Thank you so much!
One is the PCV hose, the other is just a vacuum hose. Replace them if you want, I actually just deleted mine completely. The PCV is routed to a catch can and vented to atmosphere, and the other smaller hose is capped off on both ends.
@@AutoFixYT Thank you sm!!!
Is it necessary to replace the valve cover gasket and RTV, if I'm only replacing the spark plug tube gaskets? And do you have to wait a few hours for the RTV to dry a little before starting the car? ty
Great question! The spark plug tube seals usually come in the same package as the valve cover gaskets. If for some reason you bought them separate, then I would strongly recommend replacing the main valve cover gasket as well. As for the RTV, yes. Always clean and re-apply new RTV even if you do end up reusing the old gasket. And no, you don’t need to wait a very long time. Well… technically yes, if you follow the instructions. But I’ve resealed oil pans and the drive. The car 30 min later and so does everyone at any repair shop lol nobody has time to wait. So will it be fine right away? Yes. Should you wait a little? Yeah I’d give it 30 min or 1h at most
maybe a silly question but did u have to drain the oil before u took the valve cover off i have to replace the VCG but i need to do a oil change as well is it best to drain the oil first before doing the VCG then do my oil pan gasket as well then put the new oil in
Great question! You do not have to drain it first. Actually it would be a good idea to run the engine for a little bit after you're done, with the old oil, so it can collect any debris that may have gotten in there. After 5-10 min or so, shut it off, and change the oil and filter.
Great video. Does that RTV have to be high-temperature RTV or just regular RTV?
Depends what kind of high temp you’re talking about. Doesn’t have to be the extreme high temp like the one for exhaust pipes. But I recommend using black RTV which is meant for oil and is heat resistant at regular engine operating temps.
great! I hope you can show us how to replace timing belt and water pump, oil seal, drive belt on 4A engine. Because most popular toyota corolla
It's interesting that you say that because I am currently filming that video! So it will be out soon!
@@AutoFixYT hooray!! I keep an eye on this!!
Thank you for the great videos. I have 1997 Toyota Corolla with 130k the problem is When I drive, it shakes whenever I'm going over 60-80 or under 60 whenever I step off from the accelerator. On high speed whenever I step off from the gas pedal feels like my passenger side will is bumping. I feel that the shake is from my passenger side wheel. My all four tire is new and balanced. I installed New front suspension still the shake is there am thinking of changing the CV axle. do you have any solution for me It will be really helpful for me.
Yes check the CV axle and replace it if necessary. Also check all other suspension components such as ball joints, control arms, tie rods, wheels bearings.
Is this a 7afe or 4afe engine? if so I need to try this on my Corolla Alltrac with a 4afe tomorrow as I have the gasket kit.
This is a 7A-FE but the 4A is the same.
Do you have an exhaust on that Corrola? Sounds pretty nice
I do 😏🤫
Might make a video about it in the future.
Do I need to replace the spark plug tubes also or just the valve cover gaskets n seals
Spark plug tube seals come with the valve cover gasket kit and I strongly recommend replacing them as well
That's a sick freakin wagon
Thank you!
Nice! Your videos are great and full of info!
I'm about to buy a 2000 Corolla with the same 4afe engine with just under 100k, i't looks pretty well kept all around but a couple of things made me rethink, i touched the inside of the exhaust pipe and it was a little oily so i guess it might burn some oil, is this something i should be concerned about? (Mostly worried about bad piston rings or valve seals)
It's also leaking from the 4 valve cover bolts but that would be an easy fix
Thanks!
Most of these engines will burn oil. If it's that bad to where it's dumping oil in the exhaust then there's a serious issue. Mine burns 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles and I don't have oil in my exhaust lol.
4AFE? If you’re in the US the 2000 MY has the 1ZZ-FE. Last year for 4/7AFE was 1997.
@@davidwitmer7251 it's actually a 1999.. i'm located in Italy
@@AutoFixYT thanks! I did end up buying it and so far it doesn't seem like it's burning hardly any.
have you ever had to replace the O-ring on the distributer? i think mine has a small weep in the O-ring and I need to figure how to replace it (as well as the cam seal) at the same time I am redoing the VCG
have you ever replaced the cam seal with the VCG off?
one interesting thing... i bot some new spark plug tube seals from Toyota online discount dealer, and they came packaged as made in China, not Japan, Mexico, or USA! that was a first for me in buying genuine OEM parts LOL
Maybe it's not an OEM part then?
And no I've never replaced my distributor O-ring but I have to, mine is leaking too.
@@AutoFixYT the tube seals came from an actual Toyota dealer in Iowa from their online parts department with the Toyota sticker on the bag. I thought the Toyota dealers can only sell parts sourced from their warehouse?
Oh weird. I have no idea then
i have a 95 celica with this engine and i think i need to replacee the cam seal did u ever do it and do u have a video u can recommend
How long can you wait before driving car again for the silicone to dry?
Technically 24 hours. Realistically, 30 min.
@@AutoFixYT thank you. I thought I was leaking oil from front. White smoke from tail pipe when sitting at lights for a while. I know it’s completely irrelevant 😂 but I might have a bad head gasket.
Also I do not have cats, straight pipe to the muffler. I do have to replace Coolant but the consumptions seems normal since it’s slightly leaking through where you switch from cool to heat (can’t remember that parts name rn) but I want to buy sealant just to be sure. Im in market for an engine. Mine is 4AFE. Just examined this issue today. It also sometimes hesitates to accelerate.
Alright
Which me luck, I’m about to do this on my 90 dx. Mine is the G1 version of this engine but should be same
You got this, it's not that bad of a job.
@@AutoFixYT my spark plug seal on the bottom ripped on just about every single one. Think it was sitting on a shelf for awhile 🙃
But overall wasn’t too bad of a job. Just a old car with mystery service records
How long did the process take you?
Without recording I can do it in 35-40 min
356k miles is a lot! how many of those are your miles? My '96 has 137k miles currently (mostly heavy city stop and go) and the carfax maintenance/garage report indicated that i got it with 21k in late 1996 (i couldn't remember that far back haha)
Wow that's awesome! City miles are the hardest miles on vehicles.
I put almost 100k miles on mine in the past 8 years. I bought it from my mother in law with 263k. She had it for a few years and put probably about 40k miles on it. I'm the 5th owner haha it's been through a lot. But... I'm the last owner too. It's never going.
@@AutoFixYT especially in the winter when it's below zero out haha.. at least the heater works well. The '79 Corolla I had before this one had no working heater or defrost but was a 500$ used car in the early '90s ... Where are those deals these days on 12 year old decent condition cars?
That's rough!
Lol 12 year old cars these days go for like $10k on the cheap end
I have a 7afe got at 112k 2 years ago and now its at 135k.
1990 dx. 4a-fe. 3rd odometer. Assumed 400k ish miles but dont know for sure
Di-electric grease is an insulator, might not be such a good idea to put so much where the spark plug meets the wire, might cause a miss fire
As long as you make sure it doesn't prefect the plug from touching the spring inside the wire you're good. It's mainly to coat the sides so the wire comes off easier next time.
I need a celica as an example G
The Celica will have the same engine. It's gonna be either this one or the 5S-FE from the Camry.