My input and opinion on the CRplus that I wrote to another commentor, that Think is worth mentioning. So I'll copy past it here. Its my opinion bases on my experiences with the CRplus brushes. "I can give you an advice from some one that bought a CRplus as my first airbrush, and stopped using it for various reasons, that will be too long to explain, but the short version I'll mention 2 things I REALLY dont like, there is a very slight triggerlag in the CRplu's that I don't like, its probably not something you really notice unless you have tried other high qualify brushes, but when you know its there, it WILL annoy you for fine detail work. You are always thinking, why the F is there not coming any paint out if you cant trust the brush, to push paint at the same trigger pull length every time, and that you have to pull the trigger a fair bit means you cant consistently trust when the brush starts pushing paint, only way to solve this problem partially is very thin and diluted paints. Though to solve the triggerlag 100% you have to do a modification to the trigger mechanics to overcome this issue completely. Second issue, out of a few, that I'll mention, is how the o-ring and Teflon seals are a problem. The nozzle cap has an O-ring, thats gets deformed over time and you will loose the air seal, and you have to tighten the air nozzle VERY tight to avoid air leaks, and with that, putting too much lateral torque on a O-ring, something O-rings are not designed to deal with, You will deform it over time. This is a design flaw, and you have to change it regularly. I think this is a design flaw, OR its something they have done on purpose so you are forced to buy stupidly expensive replacement O-rings. A thicker O-ring wont solve it, as the flat teflon seal on the inner nozzle head has to be flush against the wall in the nozzle well on the brush. Also, there are 3 teflon seals inside the trigger mechanism. The way the seals are mounted in a small well/tube in the trigger mechanism is also not ideal, the seals gets deformed over time if you leave the needle in brush all the time, I never leave my needles in my HS CRplus brush. And again, you have to pay an obscene amount of of money for 3 seals. AND you have to buy an expensive tool to disassemble the brush. And I'll tell you something most reviewers wont ever tell you. The first question is, what are you modelling? If you are doing amor and planes, you DONT need anything under 0.2mm. Anything under is for fine work and will cause you nothing but troubles and headache. the 0.18 and 0.15 airbrushes are for fine art airbrush artists and miniatures painters. The finer tip you get, the more difficult it becomes to use it, you get tip dry WAY faster, you get clogs WAY easier, takes for ever to do any large area covering, and you have to dilute the paint so much to prevent clogging that you have do do many more passes. then if you use a larger needle with slightly thicker paint, The 0.18, and the 0.15 needles in particular, is for filters, glazing and such where you need to do several passes to get the desired effect, or ultra thin hairline thing lines, like on portraits. I bought a Creos procon boy PS-270 with a 0.2 needle for fine work, a PS-289 with a 0.3 for more general work, and PS-290 with a 0.5 with a fan cap. I have Never ever EVER had any issues with them, build like a tank, made in the same factory as Iwata's. Never changed a seal in them, easy to clean. Only 2 drawbacks, and thats they are a bit heavy, but I actually like that, and the Procon is a nickel/chrome plating, as far as I know, not a pure chrome plating, that might be an issue for those that have nickel allergies. And to be fair, I think only HS top of the line brushes are pure chrome plating. My advice to you, if you do armor and planes, buy a quality 0.2 brush for detail work, and a cheaper 0.3-0.4 brush for priming, big coverage and such. You will get tired of the whole, I'll just swap needles, no problem. Trust me on that one."
These airbrushes are overengineered. Too many teflon seals, O rings, connections and parts. Cleaning made needlesly harder. The maintenance I have had to do on my Infinity is a big headache. Iwatas, MrHobbys or Badgers are way less problematic. So, yes, I agree completely with the post above. Surprisingly barely no reviews about these obvious design flaws anywhere and man, they are expensive to be that prone to fail.
Im completely new to airbrushes and just started modelling again in my 40s and last time i did i was 15 and used the old testors air can airbrush. I dont like to buy beginner tools cause I catch on pretty quick and i think its a waste of money if Im only going to be satisfied with a pro model lol Is this a good airbrush for all airbrush applications? I know some seem to be better for certain uses but looking to buy my first brush and compressor. Nice Video Thank YOU!
The Evolution CRplus or ALplus is a good general airbrush link here www.everythingairbrush.com/?pkey=BPA7DRGDFY this kyiv can do general airbrushing but is more for getting up close. Having both is better :-)
@@hardwaterhiker2657 you'll find most have separate airbrush for different needles, for general and another for details. Basically the 0.4 for the primers and general coatings. And 0.2/0.15 for the extreme details. Because taking apart the airbrush, cleaning, then switching out the tip and needles becomes fraught with potential damage issues and stripping the threads on the tips etc etc. Far better to have separate brushes over time. Also, the trigger feel for the fine detailing, well, everyone has their particular choices😜. For more general coats, you don't need as refined of a paint let-off as the detailing does. Any well experienced modellers workbench you look at will have 3-5 airbrushes on them (another for clear coat usually, nasty to clean up after). Not that modellers ever get addicted to buying more tools and airbrushes 🤔. Generally, it's easier to keep painting flow going when you don't have to constantly break down a single airbrush to change a single color or highlight. Make sure you get a compressor with an air tank for more consistent pressure and not just pulsing from the actual compressor. Quality air dryers can't be understated. And quick connects for the airbrushes are life savers. Hope that helps.
If I can give you an advice from some one that bought a CRplus as my first airbrush, and stopped using it for various reasons, that will be too long to explain, but the short version I'll mention 2 things I REALLY dont like, there is a very slight triggerlag in the CRplu's that I don't like, its probably not something you really notice unless you have tried other high qualify brushes, but when you know its there, it WILL annoy you for fine detail work. You are always thinking, why the F is there not coming any paint out if you cant trust the brush, to push paint at the same trigger pull length every time, and that you have to pull the trigger a fair bit means you cant consistently trust when the brush starts pushing paint, only way to solve this problem partially is very thin and diluted paints. Though to solve the triggerlag 100% you have to do a modification to the trigger mechanics to overcome this issue completely. Second issue, out of a few, that I'll mention, is how the o-ring and Teflon seals are a problem. The nozzle cap has an o-ring, thats gets deformed over time and you will loose the air seal, and you have to tighten the air nozzle VERY hard to avoid air leaks, and with that put too much lateral torque on a O-ring, something O-rings are not designed to deal with, you will deform it over time. This is a design flaw, and you have to change it regularly. I think this is a design flaw, OR its something they have done on purpose so you are forced to but stupidly expensive replacement O-rings. A thicker O-ring wont solve it, as the flat teflon seal on the inner nozzle head has to be flush against the wall in the nozzle well on the brush. Also, there are 3 teflon seals inside the trigger mechanism. The way the seals are mounted in a small well in the trigger mechanism is also not ideal, the seals gets deformed over time if you leave the needle in brush all the time, I never leave my needles in my HS CRplus brush. And again, you have to pay an obscene amount of amount of money for 3 seals. AND you have to buy an expensive tool to disassemble the brush with. And I'll tell you something most reviewers wont ever tell you. The first question is, what are you modelling? If you are doing amor and planes, you DONT need anything under 0.2mm. Anything under is for fine work and will cause you nothing but troubles and headache. the 0.18 and 0.15 airbrushes are for fine art airbrush artists and miniatures painters. The finer tip you get, the more difficult it becomes to use it, you get tip dry WAY faster, you get clogs WAY easier, takes for ever to do any large area covering, and you have to dilute the paint so much to prevent clogging that you have do do many more passes then if you use a larger needle. the 0.18, and the 0.15 needles in particular, is for filters, glazing and such where you need to do several passes to get the desired effect, or ultra thin hairline thing lines, like on portraits. I bought a Creos procon boy PS-270 with a 0.2 needle for fine work, a PS-289 with a 0.3 for more general work, and PS-290 with a 0.5 with a fan cap. I have Never ever EVER had any issues with them, build like a tank, made in the same factory as Iwata's. Never changed a seal in them, easy to clean. Only 2 drawbacks, and thats they are a bit heavy, but I actually like that, and the Procon is a nickel/chrome plating, as far as I know, not a pure chrome plating, that might be an issue for those that have nickel allergies. And to be fair, I think only HS top of the line brushes are pure chrome plating. My advice to you, if you do armor and planes, buy a quality 0.2 brush for detail work, and a cheaper 0.3-0.4 brush for priming, big coverage and such. You will get tired of the whole, I'll just swap needles, no problem. Trust me on that one.
The girl designing this painted the walls of a childs hospital . And the money they mane wirh this is going to get sent to this exact childs hospital where they also treat reconstruction for war - disfigured children amongst cancer patients etc.
they are far more nazis in the russian army than in Ukraine. There are only 2 far right member in the rada (ukrainian parliament), in France there are 90 far right member in our parliament. F U
Best airbrush I’ve owned!!!
My input and opinion on the CRplus that I wrote to another commentor, that Think is worth mentioning. So I'll copy past it here. Its my opinion bases on my experiences with the CRplus brushes.
"I can give you an advice from some one that bought a CRplus as my first airbrush, and stopped using it for various reasons, that will be too long to explain, but the short version I'll mention 2 things I REALLY dont like, there is a very slight triggerlag in the CRplu's that I don't like, its probably not something you really notice unless you have tried other high qualify brushes, but when you know its there, it WILL annoy you for fine detail work. You are always thinking, why the F is there not coming any paint out if you cant trust the brush, to push paint at the same trigger pull length every time, and that you have to pull the trigger a fair bit means you cant consistently trust when the brush starts pushing paint, only way to solve this problem partially is very thin and diluted paints. Though to solve the triggerlag 100% you have to do a modification to the trigger mechanics to overcome this issue completely.
Second issue, out of a few, that I'll mention, is how the o-ring and Teflon seals are a problem. The nozzle cap has an O-ring, thats gets deformed over time and you will loose the air seal, and you have to tighten the air nozzle VERY tight to avoid air leaks, and with that, putting too much lateral torque on a O-ring, something O-rings are not designed to deal with, You will deform it over time. This is a design flaw, and you have to change it regularly. I think this is a design flaw, OR its something they have done on purpose so you are forced to buy stupidly expensive replacement O-rings. A thicker O-ring wont solve it, as the flat teflon seal on the inner nozzle head has to be flush against the wall in the nozzle well on the brush.
Also, there are 3 teflon seals inside the trigger mechanism. The way the seals are mounted in a small well/tube in the trigger mechanism is also not ideal, the seals gets deformed over time if you leave the needle in brush all the time, I never leave my needles in my HS CRplus brush. And again, you have to pay an obscene amount of of money for 3 seals. AND you have to buy an expensive tool to disassemble the brush.
And I'll tell you something most reviewers wont ever tell you. The first question is, what are you modelling? If you are doing amor and planes, you DONT need anything under 0.2mm. Anything under is for fine work and will cause you nothing but troubles and headache. the 0.18 and 0.15 airbrushes are for fine art airbrush artists and miniatures painters.
The finer tip you get, the more difficult it becomes to use it, you get tip dry WAY faster, you get clogs WAY easier, takes for ever to do any large area covering, and you have to dilute the paint so much to prevent clogging that you have do do many more passes. then if you use a larger needle with slightly thicker paint, The 0.18, and the 0.15 needles in particular, is for filters, glazing and such where you need to do several passes to get the desired effect, or ultra thin hairline thing lines, like on portraits.
I bought a Creos procon boy PS-270 with a 0.2 needle for fine work, a PS-289 with a 0.3 for more general work, and PS-290 with a 0.5 with a fan cap. I have Never ever EVER had any issues with them, build like a tank, made in the same factory as Iwata's. Never changed a seal in them, easy to clean. Only 2 drawbacks, and thats they are a bit heavy, but I actually like that, and the Procon is a nickel/chrome plating, as far as I know, not a pure chrome plating, that might be an issue for those that have nickel allergies. And to be fair, I think only HS top of the line brushes are pure chrome plating.
My advice to you, if you do armor and planes, buy a quality 0.2 brush for detail work, and a cheaper 0.3-0.4 brush for priming, big coverage and such. You will get tired of the whole, I'll just swap needles, no problem. Trust me on that one."
These airbrushes are overengineered. Too many teflon seals, O rings, connections and parts. Cleaning made needlesly harder. The maintenance I have had to do on my Infinity is a big headache. Iwatas, MrHobbys or Badgers are way less problematic. So, yes, I agree completely with the post above. Surprisingly barely no reviews about these obvious design flaws anywhere and man, they are expensive to be that prone to fail.
Im completely new to airbrushes and just started modelling again in my 40s and last time i did i was 15 and used the old testors air can airbrush. I dont like to buy beginner tools cause I catch on pretty quick and i think its a waste of money if Im only going to be satisfied with a pro model lol Is this a good airbrush for all airbrush applications? I know some seem to be better for certain uses but looking to buy my first brush and compressor. Nice Video Thank YOU!
The Evolution CRplus or ALplus is a good general airbrush link here www.everythingairbrush.com/?pkey=BPA7DRGDFY this kyiv can do general airbrushing but is more for getting up close.
Having both is better :-)
@@genessismodels So it either way we end up with atleast a couple? lol Thanks for the Info and appreciate your channel!
@@hardwaterhiker2657 you'll find most have separate airbrush for different needles, for general and another for details. Basically the 0.4 for the primers and general coatings. And 0.2/0.15 for the extreme details. Because taking apart the airbrush, cleaning, then switching out the tip and needles becomes fraught with potential damage issues and stripping the threads on the tips etc etc. Far better to have separate brushes over time. Also, the trigger feel for the fine detailing, well, everyone has their particular choices😜. For more general coats, you don't need as refined of a paint let-off as the detailing does. Any well experienced modellers workbench you look at will have 3-5 airbrushes on them (another for clear coat usually, nasty to clean up after). Not that modellers ever get addicted to buying more tools and airbrushes 🤔. Generally, it's easier to keep painting flow going when you don't have to constantly break down a single airbrush to change a single color or highlight.
Make sure you get a compressor with an air tank for more consistent pressure and not just pulsing from the actual compressor. Quality air dryers can't be understated. And quick connects for the airbrushes are life savers.
Hope that helps.
If I can give you an advice from some one that bought a CRplus as my first airbrush, and stopped using it for various reasons, that will be too long to explain, but the short version I'll mention 2 things I REALLY dont like, there is a very slight triggerlag in the CRplu's that I don't like, its probably not something you really notice unless you have tried other high qualify brushes, but when you know its there, it WILL annoy you for fine detail work. You are always thinking, why the F is there not coming any paint out if you cant trust the brush, to push paint at the same trigger pull length every time, and that you have to pull the trigger a fair bit means you cant consistently trust when the brush starts pushing paint, only way to solve this problem partially is very thin and diluted paints. Though to solve the triggerlag 100% you have to do a modification to the trigger mechanics to overcome this issue completely.
Second issue, out of a few, that I'll mention, is how the o-ring and Teflon seals are a problem. The nozzle cap has an o-ring, thats gets deformed over time and you will loose the air seal, and you have to tighten the air nozzle VERY hard to avoid air leaks, and with that put too much lateral torque on a O-ring, something O-rings are not designed to deal with, you will deform it over time. This is a design flaw, and you have to change it regularly. I think this is a design flaw, OR its something they have done on purpose so you are forced to but stupidly expensive replacement O-rings. A thicker O-ring wont solve it, as the flat teflon seal on the inner nozzle head has to be flush against the wall in the nozzle well on the brush.
Also, there are 3 teflon seals inside the trigger mechanism. The way the seals are mounted in a small well in the trigger mechanism is also not ideal, the seals gets deformed over time if you leave the needle in brush all the time, I never leave my needles in my HS CRplus brush. And again, you have to pay an obscene amount of amount of money for 3 seals. AND you have to buy an expensive tool to disassemble the brush with.
And I'll tell you something most reviewers wont ever tell you. The first question is, what are you modelling? If you are doing amor and planes, you DONT need anything under 0.2mm. Anything under is for fine work and will cause you nothing but troubles and headache. the 0.18 and 0.15 airbrushes are for fine art airbrush artists and miniatures painters.
The finer tip you get, the more difficult it becomes to use it, you get tip dry WAY faster, you get clogs WAY easier, takes for ever to do any large area covering, and you have to dilute the paint so much to prevent clogging that you have do do many more passes then if you use a larger needle. the 0.18, and the 0.15 needles in particular, is for filters, glazing and such where you need to do several passes to get the desired effect, or ultra thin hairline thing lines, like on portraits.
I bought a Creos procon boy PS-270 with a 0.2 needle for fine work, a PS-289 with a 0.3 for more general work, and PS-290 with a 0.5 with a fan cap. I have Never ever EVER had any issues with them, build like a tank, made in the same factory as Iwata's. Never changed a seal in them, easy to clean. Only 2 drawbacks, and thats they are a bit heavy, but I actually like that, and the Procon is a nickel/chrome plating, as far as I know, not a pure chrome plating, that might be an issue for those that have nickel allergies. And to be fair, I think only HS top of the line brushes are pure chrome plating.
My advice to you, if you do armor and planes, buy a quality 0.2 brush for detail work, and a cheaper 0.3-0.4 brush for priming, big coverage and such. You will get tired of the whole, I'll just swap needles, no problem. Trust me on that one.
How does this compare to the Giraldez edition?
Its the normal cr plus edition
nice
Kyiv Why not BANDERA or SS Galizia? It would fit better.
The girl designing this painted the walls of a childs hospital . And the money they mane wirh this is going to get sent to this exact childs hospital where they also treat reconstruction for war - disfigured children amongst cancer patients etc.
they are far more nazis in the russian army than in Ukraine. There are only 2 far right member in the rada (ukrainian parliament), in France there are 90 far right member in our parliament. F U