Copper Plating FIXED This Melting RTX 3080. 25 Degree Drop In Mem Temps!
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- Опубліковано 25 бер 2022
- Just because it can be hot, doesn't mean it has to be. Such is the case with GDDR6X memory on RTX 3000 Series GPUs, which are notorious for overheating. But what is one to do? I think the answer lies in copper, one of the most thermally-conductive metals known to mankind. That being said, copper modding can be difficult, but these simple copper plates could make the process a whole lot easier. So join me as I explore just how effective the CoolMyGPU plates are, and whether or not I can save this RTX 3080 GPU from melty-hot-hot temps.
CoolMyGPU Copper Plates: www.coolmygpu.com/
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Questions and Answers:
Q: How much greater is the risk of shorting components?
A: If done correctly? None.
Q: What about galvanic corrosion?
A: There is no risk of long-term galvanic corrosion because there is no electrolyte present between the copper and aluminum heatsink.
Q: If my heatsink is already made of copper, will a copper plate improve temps?
A: Most likely not.
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Ok, I did this a couple of weeks ago with the shims. I used 2mm shims with MX4 on both sides of the shims and taped off the adjacent areas. I went from throttling at 110C to now maxing out at around 72C under load. Insane results. And this was after trying the upgraded pad replacement, which didn't work more that dropping temps about 10C. Thank you so much!
I Did this Copper Mod on my RTX 3090 Zotac Holo.
I Used the Same Copper Plate like in the Video, with ~1,7mm
Fits Perfectly, MX4 applyed all over the GPU.
Before Mod: I got 110° V-Ram after 2 Minutes.
With CopperMod: It reaches 110° after 3 Minutes.
Fans All time 100%
WTF
@@liebezentrisch5620 I don't want to presume anything, so, how is your case airflow? How are you cooling that beast? That may be more telling than just the mod. I mean I have an AIO with 2 fans and 4 case fans plus the 3 on the Ventus. The time delay to me signifies a heat build up, which speaks to airflow, from my experience.
I don't know if it's a fluke, but I had the same temps as you, but then i enabled resizable bar in my BIOs and my temps have dropped. Have you tried that?
@liebezentrisch5620 does it still make contact with the gpu chip? Seems like it would be a few mms to high.
"they cant overclock for shi-" "the grill" "overheat edition" LMAO i absolutely love the narrating on this video, funny and very informational
I am happy to see this guy is bringing solid content 😁
Keep the momentum going dude.
I've only seen a couple of your videos so far but I love your channel already. Keep it up!
This was humorous, informative, and well-paced throughout. You'll go far with this kind of content, I think.
hey man, just stumbled across this channel today, just want to say that I appreciate you risking your hardware like this to review mods for our cards.
It's awesome seeing well-thought-out video on gpus🔥
Just got recommended your channel today and I'm impressed. You've gained a subscriber :)
It's sad that a pair of GPU's that (together) cost as much as a 5-year-old car should be so poorly designed.
There's something about your narrating and editing skills that make your videos very enjoyable...
Another great video dude! Very cool this machined option of the copper interface.. After the warranty is gone, I will surely do this to mine. Right now, I only have gpus with a metal backplate, and I use, (per gpu), two 100x100x20mm aluminum heatsinks with thermal pads + 2 100mm fans blowing air into them; it works great on lowering the temps substantially but it's not a solution to have inside a PC case, only for a mining rig.
200% better and comfy than the old mega thin screwdriver(pain for hand) used on the 3070ti.
also got more of my attention than the 3070ti version, would like to see more GPU things like this. 👍
I did the small square ones on my ftw3 ultra and first tried with 1.8mm ones, core was going nuts in game so with help of those grinding machines (don't know the name in english) I reduced the thickness to 1.5mm and smoothed them with 400 grit sand paper. now core stays cool around 73-75c while gaming and memories are at 85c while mining. Gonna do this on all of my cards and save the thermal pads in case I need to send the card for warranty.
makes sense. these full shim plates are 1.57mm.
“hospital wine” 🤣 I have to steal this.
Thank you so much to these videos. Ordering my plate now.
Cool man. I followed your videos for this copper plate mod, especially for the kapton tape. Cheers!
Great video, no bs or rambling. Good job. Subscribed!
I miss the old zalman copper coolers.
Thank you for the video! I have been wondering about these.
I love your sense of humor! keep up the good work
This is so rad! dude, love the vids. Keep it up and I def want to try this with my 3080 gaming x trio now.
Never change your review style !
I think you have a bright future; the setup is excellent, just the shade in the back, but i know you are starting and will succeed in this business. Thank you for your time.
Glad your channel was on my recommended.
I had the same problem with my Ventus and got the temps to drop by replacing the pads and balling up some of the excess pad material and shoving it into the gaps between the heat pad and the heat pipe, giving that metal plate some actual contact with the rest of the cooler.
Nice idea and great video. I wonder if there is a way to bend the GPU back to where it should be. Or if the copper shim is a little bit taller than it should be an you need to sand it down. Anyway I think that even a console could se an improvement with this technique
Nice work Dandy. I just stumbled on your channel and it prompted me to order some copper shims. I have a 3070 FE I’m going to copper mod! I might just make a video to show the results 🤔. Anyway nice content!
This is a worrying trend where the pros and cons are not comprehensively discussed. One of which is the actual pressure exerted by the copper plate on the VRAMs as the gap is only 0.1 mm (1.6mm gpu die to vram level less 1.5mm plate thickness). This is the gap for thermal grease application. Any thermal expansion of copper (which is about 0.02mm) would bear much pressure on VRAMS and being incompressible, might break/chip it or even slowly degrade the VRAM solder points (fatigue stress - daily turning off/on the PC which causes drastic changes in VRAM temps that causes expansion and contraction of copper metal). All GPU transistor solders are not done exactly the same. If you did it right on the installation but with just one protruding transistor solder anomaly (higher than VRAM levels) and do not know what short circuit means, your GPU will be dead even before powering up your computer. Thermal pads on the other hand equalizes too much pressure on VRAMS as they compress depending on the amount of pressure bore down by the cooling plate. Copper plates such as this one is still risky and your card might not last long even if done "right" - whatever that means.
so what you are saying is that we should sand the plate with ultra fine grit sandpaper and make up for the 0.02 mm deficit using thermal paste right?
On a 1.5mm gap i would use a 1.0mm copper shim and fill the gaps equally on both sides with a bit of U6 Pro thermal putty instead of thermal paste.
The copper comes in different sizes, problem solved
@@goingrey9529 You make me laugh. As long as you know gap width, purchasing the right thermal pads thickness, paste and copper shims would do the trick. I have used this for my 3080 ti for two years now and still get temps at max 75C temp on full load.
@@goingrey952930 years?
Dude you are great at this job. Well done. Greetings from Turkey 🙋♂️
EPIC Fam
Great Work!
Was about to construct one for myself, this saved me a bounce off trouble!
Спасибо тебе за видео, интересно было смотреть видео и понимать, что есть всё таки возможность опустить температуру горячих типов памяти.
I like to use (red) nail polish instead of the Kapton tape. Cheap, easy to get and easy to apply.
This do look interesting, I saw the first video with the small shims that you had to sandpaper etc and was like "nah that's too much effort", but with this plate that you just place on I might actually do this :D
I had no idea this existed until today, thanks man !
2:32 Overheat Edition :D This came so unexpected I spat coffee over my whole desk. dayum
awesome video, thanks for the mod idea.
Watched your 3070Ti video, after my buddy just got a 3070Ti, and today just picked up a MSI Ventus 3080, when I saw it for $770 on Newegg. Really glad you made a video for the 3080, and the particular card I just got as well, so a badass walk through video for sure. Time to get me a copper plate and break out the K5!
New sub here...Thanks for the video! Just ordered plates for my 3080 & 3090 from these guys after watching your video. I think they will be a much better solution than the copper shims.
I hope i get mine soon, thx for this tuto :)
So no more kapton tape needed ? (just this little bit you put in ? )
Overheat edition. Lol!
Thanks for the video. I had no idea these plates exist but it makes me happy that they do.
“But muh temps are safe”… yeah, until time, temp, and voltage does its thing and degrades the ram and you start getting crashes. Lower temps= reliability over time. And can one really rely on being able to buy the gpu one wants when their old gpu takes a dump or starts degrading?
Could that copper shim be combined with the EKWB front and backplates for liquid cooling to further reduce temps or after a certain point is there just no more significant drop in temp?
@DandyWorks - Fantastic video, and loving the copper mod, i do have some questions regarding the mod...
1. Is it worth it that it might be more expensive than the copper shims as per previous video with the 3070?
2. What is the thickness on the copper mod in the video as you mentioned before getting a 1.8mm - 2mm is a really good option for modding your GPU?
It would be great to see if you can perhaps show a 3080ti copper mod (With shims or Copper plate) that is for the Palit Gamerock series as that is what I am using for mining at the moment, i have not ordered the copper shims yet as I am still not sure about the Gamerock GPU yet.
The more i watch this the more i just want to get started with the modding 😁
God guy, You have make a very informative and excellent video. That I can tolerate.
Great video. Love your sense of humor. I hope you get a commission on these because I am getting 5 of these things because of your work.
Did you end up putting these copper plates on? How were the results?
This was great bro thanks for the information.
Hi there ! First time on this channel and certainly not last since your content is top notch.
Im very far from being knowledgable in cooling solutions so i have a few questions.
From my understanding the best cooling is obtained through liquid cooling, but when i look at waterblocks installation for gpus most of them use thermal pads for the memory chips between the waterblock and the pcb.
So in theory you get the best cooling with a watercooled gpu mounted with one of these copper plate ? is it even possible ?
Or maybe the cooling of the memory chips is not that important in comparison to the die ?
This is great, I just ordered a plate for my 3070ti. In long gaming sessions I was seeing temps creep up to 100C+, I don't mine but I love these kinds of mods. Ordered some kapton tape from your link too!
But the 3070ti can handle memory temps up to 110c and given it’s at 100% load I have never seen one hit that barrier. This does not improve performance. So unless your running it at 120 degrees f ambient I don’t see the the point ?
@@bryjb10 yeah and the stock Intel and AMD cooler work just fine too but look at the market. 🙄
Besides that, these cards run with a set power target. Hotter temps requires more power to hit the same clock speed, eating up valuable power target. The cooler it runs the higher it boosts even without manual overclock. This is just basics since the days of Fermi.
Thanks for the vid. The copper pads on your previous video seemed a bit sketchy to me. I'm afraid to attempt that mod, as I'm afraid they will keep moving around. CoolMyGPU have removed this worry, so I think I will try this mod. My 3070ti GPU runs the new 100% unlock T-REX at well over 100 degrees C even with the clock rate turned down. Hope my MSI board isn't warped.
@DandyWorks
I hope you have some cool idea's for cooling the backside of the memories.
Btw very informative build I came from your 3070Ti video because we have the same GPU. I'm defenitely getting these for my 3070Ti after the warranty expires (I just got it)
The amount of thermal paste that came off the heatsink alone is the amount I use, KEKW.
Cool video. I like that you're using a little scraper to really get that 100% coverage. Still didn't do it on the upper side of the copper REEEEE
Thank you so much! Very informative
very interesting vidz, well done & informative. have you heard about kriticalpads ? classic pads but 20w/mk and precut for specific models. I bet copper is more effective but wonder at what extent these Kriticalpads solution are good. keep up the good work. waiting for the next video
Kriticalpads is currently out of stock as US Customs has the shipments on hold ..... Kinda Sucks as I have have alot of kits ordered
Kritical pads underperformed from my testing. GPURisers pads are better a d Gelid Ultimatws outperform GPURizers pads.
The MOST effective pads for GDDR6X are the 3D Graphite pads, although they are single use so would end to be replaced each time you open the card.
For the ultimate performance go woth Aluminum/Copper Shims and TH949-1 Thermal Putty
I like this channel. Finding new good ideas here.
amazing video, dude, which could be a realistic way to make that heatsink by my own ( i mean diy ) without a CNC machine? its possible to make like homemade manner?
Important note: Everyone is talking about copper modding their vrms but it seems not one mentions the very obvious. The heat pipes to the main cooler!!
This also has a thermal pad which connects the memory vrms to the main cooler. If you miss this, or cheap skate on changing this thermal pad, you will find your temps remain high, if not increase with the newly laid copper.
Also when you have changed the thermal pads and have screwed everything together, do a sight test. Peer in from the side and check to see if there is 'day light' between the thermal pads and the heat pipes. If you can a gap then you have used the 'wrong size thermal pads', and should add another layer. This is key! In fact this is 'more important than copper modding your Vrms'.
or when someone does the copper plate mod wrong and northwestrepair drops a video "NEVER DO A COPPER MOD!" 🤣 , its not for everyone to mod their gpu vrm's with copper thats for sure 🙂
Bro iam subbing just because you are do8ng something different from the million sub channels
Hi! I did a similar copper mod... but with aluminum, with very similar results...
I like the idea on that copper plate... Thanks for the review!
copper is more thermaly conductive tho
Never said anything different than that... Just said that get similar results using only aluminum...
Never forget that even the best thermal paste, are around 15 w/mk, copper is around 400, and aluminum is around 200...
Great video on a great mod that makes perfect sense. Long live the inventors
A pair of small ("needle-nose" style) channel locks goes a very long way toward pulling out stuck connectors like your fan connectors. Use the screw to set the lock width, snap it gently onto the connector, and then carefully wiggle it out of the socket. Done it a hundred times if I've done it once; works a treat!
Thank you for this tip. I hope it can save me in the future from suffering through removing these annoying JST connectors.
@@dandyworks Hehe, you're welcome! Nice video by the way! I discovered you from the buzz your previous copper shim video got; looking forward to your future content!
@@dandyworks
This is the list of thermal compounds you could try for next videos :
Dow Corning 340 heat sink compound
Heat sink compound RS 554-311 20ml
WLPK 10
RS PRO Aluminium Oxide Thermal Paste
LEITPASTE WP235
LEITPASTE 50ML Metal oxide thermal compound
122 Series Thermal Joint Compound
CHEMTRONICS CT40-5
WAKEFIELD THERMAL 120-5
GC ELECTRONICS 10-8109
So, i'm on CoolMyGPU in the 3090 section but its not clear at all which plates work with the FE. Are there not any? This site should really make this more clear.
That's Really Amazing!!
love ur channel
man, love this! could you also coopermod laptop? espesially some old 2015 laptop?
Well done... greeting from cuba.
GOOP IT! lol love your vids homie
Great info. Thanks
I just wanted to learn what you can achieve with your method. I don't even have 3080 and i'm not in to this kind of videos but man you are really impressive and funny. I like it.
FYI for anyone having trouble with alcohol (and a tip in general). The higher the concentration of alcohol (for example 99% vs 70%) the less water it will have which means two things: 1) Stronger, yet still safe cleaning power and 2) less chance of leftover water and/or condensation should you choose to blow air on it to help dry it faster.
Amen!
The pins around the GPU are not impossible to clean, just use more IPA to melt the paste. I use a little brush soaked in IPA and it is quite fast to remove it.
The silly thing is that many cards already have protrusions on the heat sink to close some of the gap towards the VRAM. It seems the only reason to not go all the way, is that the board makers are not confident in their tolerances allowing all components to contact simultaneously without anything getting crushed. Thermal pads allows the board to be bent without getting destroyed, and I guess NVIDIAs engineers though pads were enough to keep temps in spec.
I've been doing like this for years. Together with thermal paste it is much more effective than pads. I use fins from old copper coolers that I cut to size.
I'm a fan. Cool content.
You should have spread the thermal paste all over the top of the copper plate too so that the entire unit will contact the heatsink properly. In places where there is no paste the contact won’t be good and this conductivity is low.
It spreads to where the contact is and kicks the excess off to the sides. The contact of the heatsink to the copper is what pushed the excess, therefor there is no issues with contact. Just watch the video again, I completely understood what he did.
The most important question here is whether these copper plates can be stretched from time, and the second question is How will I know the measurement of the cooling pads before I open my device and buy anything is there a site that shows that
What plate is this? When I look on the website it shows a plate for the FE 80 80TI and 90 it doesn't say or show it fits other brands and I didn't see anything else on the website. Am I missing something here?
How thick is that plate? I am making a full cover waterblock for my mining cards and plan on soldering copper shims to the base plate to make paste level contact with the SMD's like memory and VRM.
I ordered a couple to try out thanks
Hi Dandyworks thanks for the great video. Can the copper shims can directly be used on GPU core itself with thermal plates to reduce temperature of the core & not just memories?
The GPU die already makes direct contact with the heatsink. A copper shim on the gpu die would elevate the heatsink.
how were the statistics obtained: what 3rd party app. to read performance of the GPU ?
That's a very messy application of thermal compound, presumably from factory. I'd keep working at it with that toothbrush until it's gone from between all of the passives on the chip. I'd also clean up those unpopulated memory pads, and frankly, I'd prefer to get those memory chips cleaner. I don't like the copper shim covering the unpopulated memory pads, I would apply kapton tape over those two unpopulated memory positions, so it wouldn't short them out in the future.
You can just put the kapton tape on the underside of the copper shim :)
That thermal pad looks ripped, bro
Great video! I checked their website to grab one for myself, but as it turns out they don't make ones compatible with the 3070ti FE. Life never is just that simple, is it?
I love how people just gave away their 400+ usd for free in to someone's pocket on top of the gpu price to get gpu instead of waiting 6-8 months to get it now at 400-500usd lower pricing.
@@1sonyzz I am fully aware of the mistake I made. Quite moronic indeed
This is awesome I am going to order one too!!!
Ahh yes the bricklayers technique for thermal paste. Nice to see someone other than me using it.
what thickness di dyou use ? I have a 3080 gainward pheonix gs and i want to buy a cooper plate cause memory reach 105/106C" and core 80C
Where do you get these shims and tape at? I’ve got a 3080ti, our the box with fans on 90% the vram temps stay at 88-90c
Why not put copper on the core as well to see the result ?
Any pump out issues with that thermal paste? Most people say you should use K5 pro with memory and VRMs.
I'm curious if I can use my EKWB active plates W/ the copper mod. my 3080 Ti has been experiencing weird and random game crashes and I can't tell if it is attributed to Vram temps or not. When performing tests with a +100 core OC the temps never run over 52 C but idk what's going on.
Could one use this under waterblock?
I see that there are multiple thickness of those copper plates available.
How would one determine the correct thick ness without trial and error?
This metode works good for air cooler right? Have you tried it with full cover gpu water block?
hello, i saw you do the video with the copper squares and you taped the whole thing in between memory with non conductive tape, however now you are placing a huge conductive copper block all around....so why did you use tape before i dont get it, regards
Thanks for the great video Dandy! I'm curious if adding thermal paste all the way around on top of the copper would lower temps even more? This way, it would have a complete connection to the heatsink at every point of the copper. Maybe this would give you even better heat transfer to the heatsink.
I read Dandy as Daddy, I need help
10:20 i was so ready for you to say "if you didn't, you're screwed" but you screwed it up 😅
I thought about it, not sure why I didn't do that. Darn!
JFYI lighter gasoline dissolves thermal grease so use it as first cleaner. Than use isopropyl alcohol to remove layer of naphthalene that is left by the gasoline. Cleaning it like that gives you perfectly clean parts. Or by one of those two solution cleaners that are same thing but with better smell.
Just got my 3070 TI and you are right thank you so much for your vid will give it a shot oh and I liked your funny little sarcastic remarks lol
Will there be a upcoming coppermod for the tuf 4090 available? the thick thermalpads a a mockery. Thanks
They seem to only be selling aluminum versions of the shim now instead of copper ones on the linked site