Problem turned out to be broken wires between door and pillar. Schematics show switches as normally open when they are normally closed. Fast forward to 6:25 for the cause of the problem.
Just fixed this issue. So satisfying to fix an annoying problem like this yourself. I saw a different video about this issue but thanks for posting nonetheless. Good on ya.
Great video. Been dealing with this for months. Tried everything else. Didnt have to time or money to take it to the dealer. Fortunately for me I was able to buy a 3 dollar butt connector pack and not have to get a new wire assembly yet. Thanks again for a great video.
@@commercialelectrician133 yes the harness is pretty reasonable and difficult to fix properly where it breaks. Save the old harness in case you need to fix a broken wire in one of the other doors in the future since you could depin the terminals and transfer to another harness in the future. Good luck.
I'm thinking this might be my issue as well... I used to be able to wiggle the housing and the issue would go away and now it's back and nothing is working to fix it now. I'll be ordering a new wire harness now. Thanks for the video!
Has anyone made repairs on the Fron doors wiring harness due to the door ajar / dome lights and door lock issues? If you do; Could you give me some advice, how to REMOVE the CLIP from the Driver's door? (I would not like to damage it) My truck is a 2012 F-150. Thank you.
Just a heads up, the new wiring harness will do the exact same thing. I’m about to install another new harness for the fourth time on my 2013. It’s only the rear, driver side door wiring harness that I’ve had an issue with.
I'm sure it will since the design is crap. I've had it on the front driver door as well. Depends how many times you open and close the doors and aggravated by cold weather.
If you have a late model 2010 or later, the fault is not in the switch. Check the wire in the boot between the B-pillar and the door. Strip back the boot and the tape. Bet you have broken wires.
You are correct it was broken wires replaced the door harness. What threw me off was the schematic shows the switch normally closed and its not. Thanks for the comment..
Is there any good videos on taking the door panel harness out and installing the new one step by step? I’m sure I can do it! But it would make it a lot easier
@@PhillipBailey Part number is correct.About $80.Give them your vin.If truck was built in Dearborn you can get back half.If it wasn't the whole harness to dash is only option $400! According to Ford 6/1/20
thanks for the info real good info I also replaced the rear left latch and my harness was also torn i replaced it . but still shows i have a broken ground my harness in my front door was good none broke?? there is a broken ground in the left kick panel can u please give me a lil info on that last piece thanks
I’m having this problem on my 2012 Ford F-150. except it’s for the 2 front doors and it keeps running my battery dead because the lights kick on and of constantly!
Does the dash indicate which front door is ajar? Check for broken wires in the same location but at the front door connections. If I remember it's a pain in the ass to unplug them. Good luck.
Yes the only problem was it indicating the door open when it was not but there are several wires in this harness and depending on which one or more fail it could cause the power window or door lock to stop working. Its easy enough to inspect the harness yourself.
@@PhillipBailey I replaced the whole harness.For months I have been having a drain of battery.It would start 5 days in a row and then not start on new battery.I could jump it and drive all over then it would start for two days.This was actually before the door ajar warning light ever came on.I am hoping this was the power drain and just was not setting of the light early on. .
was the harness wires broken at the connector? If not then this was not the same problem. You may have a problem with the switch internal in the latch. Need to do some testing on the circuit before just changing parts based on case histories.
@@eldingo21 so what is it doing? Indicating the door is open when it's not or not open when it is? Probably the switch in the latch has failed. Need to test it with an ohm meter.
Just fixed this issue. So satisfying to fix an annoying problem like this yourself. I saw a different video about this issue but thanks for posting nonetheless. Good on ya.
My 2010 F150 has this same issue, looks like a common problem, Thanks for the video.
Great video. Been dealing with this for months. Tried everything else. Didnt have to time or money to take it to the dealer. Fortunately for me I was able to buy a 3 dollar butt connector pack and not have to get a new wire assembly yet. Thanks again for a great video.
Yes, finally someone speaking my language. Very helpful. I would like to know where he gets his wire diagrams.
I use Identifix website which is a subscription service. Try Alldatadiy.com they offer information access for personal use for a reasonable fee.
Excellent video👍 same issue 11' f150 supercrew. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video awesome content 👍
Your video just save me $$100+ on a new door latch I was going to buy.
Thank you
I'm glad it helped you.
Same issue, thanks for posting.
Great Video ! Thank You 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Fast Forward to 6:25 for the cause of the problem.
I really appreciate that video bud
Had a 2013 with a broken speaker wire in tge same place yesterday...
Just got mine fixed 🙌🏼
Glad I discovered this video, I just replaced the wiring harness and the door latch and still having the same issue. Any ideas what to look at next??
What exactly is the problem with the truck. What year and model?
Great video very helpful I'm having the same problem
Check for broken wires.
I just did going to do a temporary fix but will order new harness
@@commercialelectrician133 yes the harness is pretty reasonable and difficult to fix properly where it breaks. Save the old harness in case you need to fix a broken wire in one of the other doors in the future since you could depin the terminals and transfer to another harness in the future. Good luck.
I'm thinking this might be my issue as well... I used to be able to wiggle the housing and the issue would go away and now it's back and nothing is working to fix it now. I'll be ordering a new wire harness now. Thanks for the video!
Open the door a pull the rubber boot off the connector going into the body. The wires break right there.
@@PhillipBailey when I wiggle the housing the heated seat indicators go off and on as well... So yep I got a short
Sounds like it for sure
Has anyone made repairs on the Fron doors wiring harness due to the door ajar / dome lights and door lock issues? If you do; Could you give me some advice, how to REMOVE the CLIP from the Driver's door? (I would not like to damage it) My truck is a 2012 F-150.
Thank you.
Thank you sir
Just a heads up, the new wiring harness will do the exact same thing. I’m about to install another new harness for the fourth time on my 2013. It’s only the rear, driver side door wiring harness that I’ve had an issue with.
I'm sure it will since the design is crap. I've had it on the front driver door as well. Depends how many times you open and close the doors and aggravated by cold weather.
If you have a late model 2010 or later, the fault is not in the switch. Check the wire in the boot between the B-pillar and the door. Strip back the boot and the tape. Bet you have broken wires.
You are correct it was broken wires replaced the door harness. What threw me off was the schematic shows the switch normally closed and its not. Thanks for the comment..
Is there any good videos on taking the door panel harness out and installing the new one step by step? I’m sure I can do it! But it would make it a lot easier
Sorry I didn't do that. It's not that difficult to do though.
Do you have the part number for the harness? Thanks
9L3Z-14631-CAA is the Ford number but I would confirm that with the dealer. Not sure if it's the same for the right rear door either. Good luck
@@PhillipBailey Part number is correct.About $80.Give them your vin.If truck was built in Dearborn you can get back half.If it wasn't the whole harness to dash is only option $400! According to Ford 6/1/20
thanks for the info real good info I also replaced the rear left latch and my harness was also torn i replaced it . but still shows i have a broken ground my harness in my front door was good none broke?? there is a broken ground in the left kick panel can u please give me a lil info on that last piece thanks
Sorry i just saw this message not sure what you're asking for
I’m having this problem on my 2012 Ford F-150. except it’s for the 2 front doors and it keeps running my battery dead because the lights kick on and of constantly!
Does the dash indicate which front door is ajar? Check for broken wires in the same location but at the front door connections. If I remember it's a pain in the ass to unplug them. Good luck.
Having the same issue......
Mine don’t have that harness
Did the window and door locks work when the warning light was on?
Yes the only problem was it indicating the door open when it was not but there are several wires in this harness and depending on which one or more fail it could cause the power window or door lock to stop working. Its easy enough to inspect the harness yourself.
Check the video at 6:30
@@PhillipBailey I replaced the whole harness.For months I have been having a drain of battery.It would start 5 days in a row and then not start on new battery.I could jump it and drive all over then it would start for two days.This was actually before the door ajar warning light ever came on.I am hoping this was the power drain and just was not setting of the light early on.
.
Where can I buy a new door harness
From the dealer or used.
I replaced my harness and still didn't work any other ideas?
was the harness wires broken at the connector? If not then this was not the same problem. You may have a problem with the switch internal in the latch. Need to do some testing on the circuit before just changing parts based on case histories.
@@PhillipBailey yes they were broken as it showed in your video, so I just replaced the harness
@@eldingo21 so what is it doing? Indicating the door is open when it's not or not open when it is? Probably the switch in the latch has failed. Need to test it with an ohm meter.
@@PhillipBailey yea its indicating its open when it is not.
@@eldingo21 ground the green wire which is in pin 2 of the connector at the door. The message should go out. If so replace the latch assembly.
Yup poor design maybe that’s why the OEM parts are reasonable.
When I see a loss of power or ground in a door I always think of the bendable wires in door
Jesus - you take all day to explain.
That's why there's a fast forward.
What is the name for that cable part?
Door Harness?