This video saved me a ton of money and headache. I thought I had horribly broken my truck when I just swapped the battery in my 2013 F150 5.0L and tried to drive off with no power steering and most of my accessories disabled and every warning light illuminated. The "flip the high beams on and off 5 times and press the brake three times" method did not work. But, when I tried again and this time left the vehicle untouched overnight, I came back to a fully functional truck with no errors. Definitely learned a lesson in making sure to read the damn manual as all of this is spelled out right there. I figured that I've changed plenty of car batteries before so I had no need to check. Won't be making that mistake again.
I have had many Ford trucks and never did any type after changing batteries. Interesting. I just changed out the battery on my 2011 F 150 tonight. I'm not a professional mechanic though. I never did on my other Ford trucks either. 2003, 2005,2008,2011.. Wow. Nothing in the manual either. Dang.
so I have a 2014, and i dont have one of those battery scanner things. So i should put the new battery in and just leave it 8 hours? Dont even start the truck up at all? thanks for the video by the way
Important to note on BMS/BOC systems on these vehicles - if you charge the battery, your connection to negative needs to be behind the sensor... so, for earlier ones, 2011, 2012, 14, 15 - that's on the body/engine. Newer ones it has a special terminal that sits where the sensor is connected, but not direct on the negative terminal. These trucks can pull a decent load, while not running at all... think stop/start, brakes, etc., so if you are just running to the store and back, less than 45 minutes of driving, they are not going to charge up very well. A trickle charger or charger needs to be connected correctly, or the BOC is not going to show that you charged the battery at all, which gives you that shut down message on the Infotainment system, right after you turn the key off.
@@leonglassglow3854 Glad it helped someone. I had put one of those newer batteries in my truck a few years ago and the computer never liked it. I ended up putting in a new regular battery, resetting the BMS, and its been friendly again, ever since. New batteries are not cheap anymore... whew
Most auto parts stores will swap your battery free of charge and on most cars. BMW's and a lot of European cars we just wouldn't touch because you could brick the ECU and it would have to be hauled off on a wrecker. When I was doing it I would have cleaned up those terminal connections before I put the new one in just so I'd have a little more room to work and I wouldn't get battery cleaner spray and goop onto the new unit. As for the battery insulators, I would toss them most times when they were trashed but if they were still in good shape or if the customer was instant, I would reuse them. After all, the factory didn't install them just for looks.
Oh yeah all the German cars can be quite finicky with battery replacement. You have to have a really fancy pants scanner to make that work. The insulators were crumbling into nothing. You can buy replacements I believe. But I wouldn't put them on my truck, I've never have seen a big use for them. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros yeah I just had to do that driver side blower actuator whatever it is, on the same day. I went and got like this folding bench so I can lay down and had my shoulders sticking into the floorboard.
I have a 2012 F150 and I understand from previous owner that the Motorcraft battery is about 8 years old. I am planning on replacing it very soon but my question is , will I receive a warning on the display that the battery is about to shut down or will it just die instantly.
It shouldn't just die unless you have a serious problem. If the battery is questionable, it will start giving warnings that it is shutting down lights and radio, etc. when you turn off the vehicle instead of waiting for you to open the door. Mine has been doing that often (my truck sets for days at a time) and I have no idea how old the battery is. It still starts, runs and stops giving me those messages so out of curiosity I've just kept driving it. Also my charge rate is showing pretty much what it should. I checked this video out because I am considering replacing the battery or at least testing my existing battery and cleaning the terminals. Batteries haven't changed a lot, but all the computer monitoring makes me reluctant to just jump in and yank it or even disconnect it for testing. On mine, I am pretty sure it's just normal parasitic drain triggering the warnings.
So here's something interesting; I've the 2013 5.0 and just replaced the battery. I wasn't aware of this system deal and just drove as usual. However, I noticed my voltmeter was reading 12.9 when under load, while driving, and then would go to 14.0 or higher when I let off the throttle. I took to Orielys abs they said the alternator was showing "failed". Now, today, after of course sitting overnight, it seems fine. Voltmeter while driving under all conditions shows 13.9-14.1. Thoughts? Did I mess something up?
I was wondering the same after just paying $140 for the EverStart Maxx at Walmart. So I looked it up. Turns out it's a bit more than $100. In my area it's $120, but I still could have saved $20 for the same charging power and the same 36 mo warranty.
Waiting the 8 hours will reset the BMS no matter what. Just when you drove it without doing that there is a chance your new battery was being overfed charge. Thanks for watching!
That's correct. But a mechanic will charge you at least 100 bucks to do it. You do it 5 times and you have paid for the scanner. So I'd say it's worth it. Not to mention most places wont even do it if they didn't put the battery in costing even more.
This video saved me a ton of money and headache. I thought I had horribly broken my truck when I just swapped the battery in my 2013 F150 5.0L and tried to drive off with no power steering and most of my accessories disabled and every warning light illuminated.
The "flip the high beams on and off 5 times and press the brake three times" method did not work. But, when I tried again and this time left the vehicle untouched overnight, I came back to a fully functional truck with no errors. Definitely learned a lesson in making sure to read the damn manual as all of this is spelled out right there. I figured that I've changed plenty of car batteries before so I had no need to check. Won't be making that mistake again.
Yep. Thanks for watching!
Did you unplug thee battery after thee high beams and brake didn't work?
Really good video! Great edits and perfect camera angles for seeing what you're doing. Thank you.
Much appreciated!
I did the 8-hour reset in 2019. No problems at all. Just pop the hood, lock the car then do the battery swap. Drop the hood, then leave for 8 hours.
Back in my day you just put the battery in job done. Now you gotta program the computer to verify that you did the thing!
Yep, it was easier back then. Not so bad though. Thanks for watching!
AFTER donning a full hazmat suit.....
Now what if you never knew about a bms and drove it right after? Do I still leave it alone for 8 hours now or am I screwed at this point
I have had many Ford trucks and never did any type after changing batteries. Interesting. I just changed out the battery on my 2011 F 150 tonight. I'm not a professional mechanic though. I never did on my other Ford trucks either. 2003, 2005,2008,2011.. Wow. Nothing in the manual either. Dang.
Hi I have 2004 F-150 Ford
Do you know How to rests for after replace battery?
You don't need to on that old of a truck. Thanks for watching!
Great video as usual
Thank you so much for watching Joseph!
so I have a 2014, and i dont have one of those battery scanner things. So i should put the new battery in and just leave it 8 hours? Dont even start the truck up at all? thanks for the video by the way
Can you explain the "runaway battery" part a little more? Why would it spark, and is it safe that it's sparking, and do I need PPE or something?
Can you explain to us how to change the new Taurus battery, models 22 and 23?
Important to note on BMS/BOC systems on these vehicles - if you charge the battery, your connection to negative needs to be behind the sensor... so, for earlier ones, 2011, 2012, 14, 15 - that's on the body/engine. Newer ones it has a special terminal that sits where the sensor is connected, but not direct on the negative terminal. These trucks can pull a decent load, while not running at all... think stop/start, brakes, etc., so if you are just running to the store and back, less than 45 minutes of driving, they are not going to charge up very well. A trickle charger or charger needs to be connected correctly, or the BOC is not going to show that you charged the battery at all, which gives you that shut down message on the Infotainment system, right after you turn the key off.
@@leonglassglow3854 Glad it helped someone. I had put one of those newer batteries in my truck a few years ago and the computer never liked it. I ended up putting in a new regular battery, resetting the BMS, and its been friendly again, ever since. New batteries are not cheap anymore... whew
Most auto parts stores will swap your battery free of charge and on most cars. BMW's and a lot of European cars we just wouldn't touch because you could brick the ECU and it would have to be hauled off on a wrecker. When I was doing it I would have cleaned up those terminal connections before I put the new one in just so I'd have a little more room to work and I wouldn't get battery cleaner spray and goop onto the new unit. As for the battery insulators, I would toss them most times when they were trashed but if they were still in good shape or if the customer was instant, I would reuse them. After all, the factory didn't install them just for looks.
Oh yeah all the German cars can be quite finicky with battery replacement. You have to have a really fancy pants scanner to make that work.
The insulators were crumbling into nothing. You can buy replacements I believe. But I wouldn't put them on my truck, I've never have seen a big use for them. Thanks for watching!
If you hook up a memory saver do you still have to reset the BMS?
Yep. Because you want the computer to not make the alternator to work as hard with a new battery. Thanks for watching!
I have never seen an older Ford need any computer reset for a battery. Wow. What are the complications of not doing it or waiting 8 hours?
Nope, this started in 2011. Over charging your new battery and potentially damaging it. Thanks for watching!
My car is a 2014 F150 Lack of battery charge, even though the car's electric dynamo is new, so what is the solution, please?
Wheres the link for the cleaner tool?
Gently drop the battery in... wham!!! JK, thanks for the help!! Awesome video!!
I'm on the short side so it is a bit of an awkward angle lol Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros yeah I just had to do that driver side blower actuator whatever it is, on the same day. I went and got like this folding bench so I can lay down and had my shoulders sticking into the floorboard.
I have a 2012 F150 and I understand from previous owner that the Motorcraft battery is about 8 years old. I am planning on replacing it very soon but my question is , will I receive a warning on the display that the battery is about to shut down or will it just die instantly.
It shouldn't just die unless you have a serious problem. If the battery is questionable, it will start giving warnings that it is shutting down lights and radio, etc. when you turn off the vehicle instead of waiting for you to open the door. Mine has been doing that often (my truck sets for days at a time) and I have no idea how old the battery is. It still starts, runs and stops giving me those messages so out of curiosity I've just kept driving it. Also my charge rate is showing pretty much what it should. I checked this video out because I am considering replacing the battery or at least testing my existing battery and cleaning the terminals. Batteries haven't changed a lot, but all the computer monitoring makes me reluctant to just jump in and yank it or even disconnect it for testing. On mine, I am pretty sure it's just normal parasitic drain triggering the warnings.
So here's something interesting; I've the 2013 5.0 and just replaced the battery. I wasn't aware of this system deal and just drove as usual. However, I noticed my voltmeter was reading 12.9 when under load, while driving, and then would go to 14.0 or higher when I let off the throttle. I took to Orielys abs they said the alternator was showing "failed". Now, today, after of course sitting overnight, it seems fine. Voltmeter while driving under all conditions shows 13.9-14.1. Thoughts? Did I mess something up?
I'm also wondering if I have tested again if the alternator will still show a fail status...?
Did you ever figure this out? I just replaced my alternator and battery and it’s doing exactly what yours is.
Old comment but I’m curious if y’all found a solution to this problem
How much is that scanner youbused
Like 500 bucks, hence why I went over the free way. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros can local shops offer this service
Is that a catch can by the battery????
It is. Part of a custom catch the owner installed. Thanks for watching!
Why if you disturb it.? .will it reset after 8 hour
That's just the way it is programmed. Thanks for watching!
So what do you need to do if you did turn the truck on
I would just take the negative off wait a minute then plug it back in and wait the 8 hours or clear it with a scanner. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever reset the BMS with the 8 hour method.
No I haven’t, I have the tool and no time so I use it. But where I got the info on the 8 hour is from Ford so it’s good. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Tried it. It didn't work. I guess I will invest several hundred dollars to put in a new battery. I think the Amish may be on to something
@@terrydunlap8441 or was there something else wrong with your truck? just wondering because I am going to be replacing my battery soon
Soaked my pos terminal for months, still doesn't tighten up, putting on a $35 dorman, there's a trick to it, these new connections suck!
Bruh I’m homeless I can wait 8 hours in the parking lot for a BMS😂😂
I find it hard to believe that you got that battery at Costco for 100 bucks!! You cant hardly get a lawnmower battery for 100 bucks anymore.
I was wondering the same after just paying $140 for the EverStart Maxx at Walmart. So I looked it up. Turns out it's a bit more than $100. In my area it's $120, but I still could have saved $20 for the same charging power and the same 36 mo warranty.
Just purchased an Interstate Group 65 standard 850 CCA from Costco for 119.99@@davidnettleton3375
They wait 8 hours didn't help. UGH. So sick of new vehicles. Can't work on them any more.
How did you know it didn’t work? I’m gonna try the 8 hour thing, so I have no reference to see if it works or not. Thanks in advance.
Yooo did it work for you?
It seems that the BMS resets every 8 hours.
Yep. If left totally alone. Thanks for watching!
Like aaronkerkau3996 said if we drove ot after installing the new battery, are we screwed at this point or will waiting the 8hrs still rest the BMS?
Waiting the 8 hours will reset the BMS no matter what. Just when you drove it without doing that there is a chance your new battery was being overfed charge. Thanks for watching!
OK, perfect, I'll change my battery after work, cuz i work 10hrs so should be all good after that!!
Sorry ,I got to say BMS stands for
Bullshit Motocraft System 😊, I own ford pick BTW.
Good one! lol Thanks for watching!
Have to raise the BS flag on the so called savings when the BMS scanner cost close to $500.00.
That's correct. But a mechanic will charge you at least 100 bucks to do it. You do it 5 times and you have paid for the scanner. So I'd say it's worth it. Not to mention most places wont even do it if they didn't put the battery in costing even more.
Are you teaching 4 year olds to work on their truck? Talk like an adult.