Man, I never leave reviews nor subscribe to any UA-cam channels. But you’re the first. I love your videos man. Straight to the point, clear as day instructions. Love it! Good Job!
You want to back fill the ditch before putting the tracer wire in the ditch. The wire is not suppose to come in contact with the poly gas pipe. And don't wrap the tracer wire around the gas riser. Have seen in the past where the copper tracer wire was energized and burned a hole in the Poly gas pipe.
Well, that's scary! Home-flex's install directions and videos show them wrapping the trace wire around the risers and laying it next to and on top of the poly pipe. I found other documents that said don't tape and one saying tape it every five feet. But having the tracer wire burn a hole in the poly pipe is not good! Thanks for the comment and insight.
How/why would the tracer wire become energized…? It’s not a grounding wire it would be impossible to become energized. I would strap it directly to the pipe.
I’m in the middle of a similar project. My system will hold 15 PSI for 15-20 minutes no problem, but if I leave the gage on overnight, there’s no pressure the next day. This scares me. I put leak detector on all the connections too, don’t see any bubbles.
@anthonysgarage I would say there is still a leak somewhere. How does it hold pressure for 4-5 hours? Keep applying the leak detector to all the connections including the pressure gauge (I've had leaks at the gage) and any valves. You may want to create a test leak by loosening an end cap to determine that your leak detector is working well. My understanding is you should try to do longer test over the day where the air temp is staying more consistent, large temp changes will affect pressure, especially with longer Poly pipe. Good luck leak hunting.
@@BruBuilds Yes. I totally agree. I’m redoing everything right now. Just sucks cause I’m working in a wet, sandy trench with melting snow all around. It’s difficult to keep everything clean between disassembly and assembly. Just gonna go slow and be extra careful this time. I’m certain it’s none of my black pipe fittings. Those are easy enough to check. They’re above ground, exposed, clean and dry. I think it’s gotta be a small seep between the plastic tubing and an o-ring.
I just repaired my poly gas line with electrofusion couplings. There was business locally that rented the machine to me and had the fittings in stock. Very slick. I was hesitant about using the o rings fittings because the od of the pipe was beat up from being buried. Machine cost $140 for a day rental Fittings were $7-10 a piece.
Does the riser come up from the front of (like my garage) then goes in sideways through the wall? Or could the riser come up through the foundation in between the framing hidden? Thanks for any help Dave
I've only seen them external for transitioning from underground to above ground, then go into a wall. (example) A gas company would use a riser from underground, attach to the gas meter then go into the walls of a house.
Not sure what I would recommend, but it sounds like it would be good to protect it. Can you dig the trench big enough to bury it in sand? I would contact the manufacturer and see what they suggest to protect it.
Meter risers are used to transition from below ground polyethylene pipe to above ground metallic pipe. Home-flex calls this piece a meter riser, probably because that is its most common use, to connect a gas service line to a gas meter. I used them for the BBQ to transition from the house black pipe gas line to the below ground poly pipe, then back to black gas pipe where the BBQ and fireplace will be located. Yes, this is in the backyard, my meter is in the front of the house. If you do this be sure to pull a building permit. Hope this helps. @Amir Nakhai
Where we live a permit is required from the city for just about anything you do to a house. The inspector comes because you pulled a permit, to check your work and make sure it meets the building code. I figure it's a good safety check as well as there won't be an issue when it comes to selling the house because the work was done with a permit.
@josep2807 There are code requirements when both are in the same trench dealing with how close the lines can be to each other. If I recall the trench would need to be rather large, which is why I dug two separate trenches. I would check with your local building department.
Thanks for watching so closely. I had to go re-watch it to see what you were referring to. if I remember correctly that was the only connection I needed a wrench to get it tight. I couldn’t get a good bite around the nut because the pliers weren’t big enough. I found using them in the “wrong direction” worked to get the nut tight to the flange.
My understanding is when it comes to DIY projects; your homeowners insurance covers repairs even if the work was done by you instead of a contractor. Most homeowner’s insurance policies have poor workmanship exclusions that apply whether the work was done by the homeowner or a licensed contractor. If the insurance company feels that the damage was caused by faulty workmanship and wasn’t an accidental occurrence, the repairs won’t be covered by your policy. I feel if you get a permit, follow the building code and have your work inspected, you should be covered. Always a good idea to check your homeowner's policy.
Paul I really enjoy your videos. You do the work correctly and that is great. God has given you an awesome talent. God Bless you and your family.
Thanks Larry, that is a big complement coming from a master craftsman as yourself.
YES!
Stop filling up your dump bodies and 1 Ton trucks with broken concrete!
Break it up and reuse it!
Excellent video!
Thank you.
This video was great. I really enjoyed your subtle sense of humor too.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for the advice, expertise and visuals!
Thanks
Man, I never leave reviews nor subscribe to any UA-cam channels. But you’re the first. I love your videos man. Straight to the point, clear as day instructions. Love it! Good Job!
Thanks, I appreciate that.
Great videos! I love your organization and set up for your tutorials. Thank you!
Thabks
Thank you very much. Best explanation .
You are welcome!
You want to back fill the ditch before putting the tracer wire in the ditch. The wire is not suppose to come in contact with the poly gas pipe. And don't wrap the tracer wire around the gas riser. Have seen in the past where the copper tracer wire was energized and burned a hole in the Poly gas pipe.
Well, that's scary! Home-flex's install directions and videos show them wrapping the trace wire around the risers and laying it next to and on top of the poly pipe. I found other documents that said don't tape and one saying tape it every five feet. But having the tracer wire burn a hole in the poly pipe is not good! Thanks for the comment and insight.
How/why would the tracer wire become energized…? It’s not a grounding wire it would be impossible to become energized.
I would strap it directly to the pipe.
use a piple cutter, micro plastics are a nightmare right now
I’m in the middle of a similar project. My system will hold 15 PSI for 15-20 minutes no problem, but if I leave the gage on overnight, there’s no pressure the next day. This scares me. I put leak detector on all the connections too, don’t see any bubbles.
@anthonysgarage I would say there is still a leak somewhere. How does it hold pressure for 4-5 hours?
Keep applying the leak detector to all the connections including the pressure gauge (I've had leaks at the gage) and any valves. You may want to create a test leak by loosening an end cap to determine that your leak detector is working well.
My understanding is you should try to do longer test over the day where the air temp is staying more consistent, large temp changes will affect pressure, especially with longer Poly pipe.
Good luck leak hunting.
@@BruBuilds Yes. I totally agree. I’m redoing everything right now. Just sucks cause I’m working in a wet, sandy trench with melting snow all around.
It’s difficult to keep everything clean between disassembly and assembly. Just gonna go slow and be extra careful this time. I’m certain it’s none of my black pipe fittings. Those are easy enough to check. They’re above ground, exposed, clean and dry. I think it’s gotta be a small seep between the plastic tubing and an o-ring.
I just repaired my poly gas line with electrofusion couplings. There was business locally that rented the machine to me and had the fittings in stock. Very slick. I was hesitant about using the o rings fittings because the od of the pipe was beat up from being buried.
Machine cost $140 for a day rental
Fittings were $7-10 a piece.
Does the riser come up from the front of (like my garage) then goes in sideways through the wall? Or could the riser come up through the foundation in between the framing hidden? Thanks for any help Dave
I've only seen them external for transitioning from underground to above ground, then go into a wall. (example) A gas company would use a riser from underground, attach to the gas meter then go into the walls of a house.
Im running a gas line through an area with rocks and gravel, do you recommend putting it inside some 3" weeping tile drain tube?
Not sure what I would recommend, but it sounds like it would be good to protect it. Can you dig the trench big enough to bury it in sand? I would contact the manufacturer and see what they suggest to protect it.
The gas line meter riser is where the gas company meter is connected to? It's in the person backyard not front of house?
Meter risers are used to transition from below ground polyethylene pipe to above ground metallic pipe. Home-flex calls this piece a meter riser, probably because that is its most common use, to connect a gas service line to a gas meter. I used them for the BBQ to transition from the house black pipe gas line to the below ground poly pipe, then back to black gas pipe where the BBQ and fireplace will be located. Yes, this is in the backyard, my meter is in the front of the house. If you do this be sure to pull a building permit. Hope this helps. @Amir Nakhai
Do I need always a inspector to check if is not any leaks?
Where we live a permit is required from the city for just about anything you do to a house. The inspector comes because you pulled a permit, to check your work and make sure it meets the building code. I figure it's a good safety check as well as there won't be an issue when it comes to selling the house because the work was done with a permit.
Hello... can the gas line and water lines be in the same trench?
@josep2807 There are code requirements when both are in the same trench dealing with how close the lines can be to each other. If I recall the trench would need to be rather large, which is why I dug two separate trenches. I would check with your local building department.
I would NEVER trust anyone who holds the pliers/wrench in the wrong direction./10:55
Thanks for watching so closely. I had to go re-watch it to see what you were referring to. if I remember correctly that was the only connection I needed a wrench to get it tight. I couldn’t get a good bite around the nut because the pliers weren’t big enough. I found using them in the “wrong direction” worked to get the nut tight to the flange.
Where do you buy the leak test gauge
I picked up all my stuff at Home Depot. Here is an amazon link to one amzn.to/3ZERPMA
Gas is not a dyi. If it blows up your insurance will not cover it unless a licensed gas fitter or plumber does it. So good luck
My understanding is when it comes to DIY projects; your homeowners insurance covers repairs even if the work was done by you instead of a contractor. Most homeowner’s insurance policies have poor workmanship exclusions that apply whether the work was done by the homeowner or a licensed contractor. If the insurance company feels that the damage was caused by faulty workmanship and wasn’t an accidental occurrence, the repairs won’t be covered by your policy.
I feel if you get a permit, follow the building code and have your work inspected, you should be covered. Always a good idea to check your homeowner's policy.