Pole Barn - DIY Natural Gas Line Install
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- In this video Shelby and I install the underground natural gas line from my house out to the shop. This video includes the outdoor portion of the line, and the pressure test/inspection. Hooking up under the house and installing a furnace in the shop will be a separate video. I struggled with these lines for a full week... hopefully someone can learn from my mistakes. As usual, this is my DIY project, but not intended to be a how-to video.
Thanks for sharing the fails. Most only share their wins. The fails are the real teacher.
Haha, no problem. I agree.
This is a really great example of why it’s important to use pipe dope and not teflon tape. Lots of DIY guys wouldn’t bother doing so thinking they put on teflon tape assumed it did it’s job and sealed, but this is exactly why it’s imperative to use the right kind of sealant.
Good description. Very helpful, with none of the random sound tracks that are on most DIY videos nowadays. Thanks.
Terrence Rooney thank you!
Great how-to video and I also like the fact you did this without feeling the need to entertain us with a useless music background. Great job!
Proper job man. I’m a certified gas fitter from Canada. Wish all “do it yourself” guys did it like this
Wow, thanks for the praise. Means a lot coming from a pro!
@@ShawnFerret Im curious, from where im from, usually the inspector wants a 15 psi test for 15 mins. 10 psi seems kind of low. Is that code where you're from? I usually pressure test around 30 psi for a day so the inspectors dont bother me as much lol
@@blueg3027 I just did what the inspector told me she wanted. I have heard all kinds of pressures and test timing around the U.S. from people on here. They wanted 10 psi for 24 hours. The odd thing was the inspector just looked at the gauge and passed it. She didn’t wait and check it again. I could have set it to 10 psi right before she got there and she would never have known if it leaked down.
I almost never comment on videos... But thank you. This video was awesome.. i never get plumbing right the 1st time and thanks for showing the fixes. Great job and congrats
Thank you!!! DIY doesn’t always go smooth but at least you learn.
This is a really great example of why it’s important to pressurize the pipe and test it before moving forward. Lots of DIY guys wouldn’t bother doing so thinking they put sealant on then assumed it did it’s job and sealed, but this is exactly why it’s imperative.
For sure! Luckily the permit required this test, so I had no choice.
It doesn't take a genius to understand pressurization. Much less a fucking permit . Not down south anyways. You got low water pressure in your shower you gonna call a licensed professional? Down here we do it ourselves. You call a licensed pro to bleed your brake lines on your vehicle also?
Nice video. I appreciate the fact that you showed your leaks
Thanks! Just keeping it real.
23 years ago I installed black gas pipe to my unattached garage for a gas furnace. I had the gas company install a new meter about a year ago and noticed leaks after he tested the new meter. He traced them in line to where my black pipes lay in the yard. I put a shut off at the meter going to the garage. Now I have to dig and run a new plastic line like you did. I was unsure how the plastic hooked to the existing pipe in the garage. Thanks for the video.
Good thing you have that shutoff. Good luck on the repair!
I'm a big believer in pipe dope over teflon tape for threaded connections
Geoff Rundlett yep I learned the hard way. Not using tape again anytime soon.
@@ShawnFerret i use the yellow tape AND pipe dope so far no leaks
@@ShawnFerret i also use con stab fittings. the compression fittings can leak and fail over time stab fittings a particular brand from continental called Con Stab fittings are very reliable in fact the gas companies use them. The creme de la creme and never leak method is hot fusion but the equipment is expensive and hard to find to rent. in case u never seen it. you shave the ends of the pipes till they are smooth then put your two pipes in this jig put a hot plate in between the two ends close the jig where the two ends are touching the hot plate. Once the PE pipe ends are melted you then remove the hot plate mesh the two ends together and there should be a bead formed at the joint you take a tool and measure the bead to make sure it is in required spec. if everything is done correctly the joint will be stronger than the pipe itself.
The stab fitting are the next best thing very reliable and very simple you chamfer the ends of the pipe with a chamfer tool. then you stab the pipe into the fitting to a marked depth. the fitting has a shark bite on the inside that grips the pipe permanently and the pipe will never ever pull out. Con stab is a particular brand i like of the stab fittings cause the o ring seals seal on the INSIDE of the pipe area protected from damage that's what makes them soo reliable.
The compression fittings have to be done perfectly. the ends have to be flush and the compression tight enough so the gripper will hold the pipe and push the pipe against the o ring. they are harder to use than the stab fittings but r lesser in cost.. a home flex compression fitting is $25 a con stab fitting is around $35 or more the chamfer tool is around $31. The compression fitting if you mess up you can redo your fitting. the stab fitting is a one shot deal once you put the pipe in the fitting and you did it wrong you have to buy a new fitting and start over once the pipe is in the fitting the fitting will never let go. each type has it's pros and cons but if you consider reliability. stab fittings are the way to go save Hot fusion
@@luv2uallday1 wow thanks for this info. I have never heard of or seen the stab fittings. Sounds like a better way to go. I wasn't very impressed with the Home-Flex. I will definitely look into stab fittings the next time I bury PE pipe.
@@luv2uallday1 I prefer Permasert over Constab. And using the chamfer tool. But Fusion over anything else when done properly.
I install poly gas pipes for pool plumbing. I'm Required to wrap the gas riser with 10 mil tape. I heat fuse the riser to the pipe, that coupler will leak with time. I like how you showed every step and leak and fix. Great job and video. I recommend a union, and a valve on your riser going into the building for future repairs etc.
Thanks for the feedback! A few others have mentioned heat fusing as the best way to go, so I definitely have that in mind for next time. I did end up putting a valve in under the house so I can shut off the underground line, and then a valve just inside the shop (where the gauge was) to shut the building down. I probably should have put them outside but I didn’t know how they would hold up to the elements. Unions would have been smart.
I believe Continental Pipe risers are much better and they have the couplings already molded on to the riser.
Good video, I'm going to be running gas to my shed this weekend. Thank you
Good job, bud.
Good to see a guy just get the job done without a lot of talk and build up.
Thx
kip carroll thanks!
Shelby is clearly running the project here. Great job! Hopefully there was a treat for a job well done
Haha she is the boss.
I've seen that yellow line used a few times and all the out comes I know is literally yours! We had always been instructed to use poly steel. Glad it worked, I think I may use it in my own shop! Great video!
Thank you! Hope you have an easier time than I did!
25 years ago me and the crew I was on installed that yellow line using an electrofusion machine in hundreds of homes and businesses for new and also replacing the old pvc. That line will outlast the others.
Never have a leak again...
I'm a 74 year old guy who was raised around the "Trades" since I was a kid. A trick I was taught by and "Old Plumber" when I was about 30 years old. "Make sure all your steel materials are clean and dry. For all gas connections you wrap the male threads with the gas approved Teflon tape making sure that the tapes is stretched until it is touching the bottom of the male threads. When you wrap the male thread start at the tip of the pipe as you tightly wrap the threads. Make 2 or 3 wraps even with the end of the pipe and the tape is applied in clockwise direction: then travel 1 thread at a time until you have covered all the threads making suire the tape is stretched so it reaches the bottom of each thread valley. Keep this area clean and dry as you move to the female portion of the connection. Use your finger to apply a "Gas approved non-drying pipe" dope and work work it into the female threads until the pipe dope is in contact with every thread and every thread valley is covered with the pipe dope. Carefully join the fittings by hand and make sure you are not cross threading the pipe; I thread the fitting until the resistance stops me. Away keep tightening until you can see 3 thread showing on the male pipe. Using this method i have never had a leads.... and I have done many. this also works when plumbing water (tape and dope approved for potable water) and it also works well when plumbing air.
Sounds like a great method. Thanks for taking the time to share!!
Excellent tips, I alway use Dope and Teflon tape on all threaded connections for water and gas , never have leaks
Thanks for this great video. To the point and informative. I have a detached garage that is only about 6 ft from the house that I want to get a gas line out to.
The secret to not having a leak to a threaded gas pipe connection is to tighten it hand tight plus 1/2 turn, in addition to your pipe dope. I have used the yellow thread tape, but prefer the pipe dope. Gas piping is tested for 15 minutes as 10 psi.
This is a different procedure than what you would do with water piping, which basically as tight as you can get it. Water pressure can be as low as 40 psi, and it’s not supposed to be above 80psi, or requires a pressure regulator.
-Carl P.
Contractor for 22 years
Former ICBO and ICC inspector.
Former home inspector.
Not with gas with explosive gas you do not fuck around with the "half a turn" bs lol
Always love advice 😉 from a guy who had a leak on both ends of his plastic pipe work, the only places he had control of…failed. Good thing you tested it! I’ve seen leaks happen in areas where guys overtightened it, but It looks like you didn’t like my advice of “hand tight + half turn” comment from 3 years ago. You should still test it, as nobody is perfect, and natural gas is too dangerous not to. I have also never had 2 leaks on the same job. 🤷🏼♂️😅
I’m a plumber in Houston couldn’t help but notice the way you were holding the channel locks to tighten up the coupling …. Also i would recommend a valve coming up from the underground real nice job tho I bet it was hell digging lol
Thanks Javier!
a much watch video. not because of the project at hand but all the issues you went through and what you had to deal with regarding inspector. well done
Thanks!!
Great video man you showed mistakes and the fixes nice job 👍
Thank you!!
Pipe dope is colored for the product used. Hard pipe has cut threads and pipe dope is best practices in Midwest. NPT is cut and tapered, therefore it has tiny jagged edges on the threads. While Teflon tape is thin and white, it’s also sold in yellow that’s thicker for gas. Machines fitting can be cut on a lathe or cutting tool, to custom lengths on the job site. Commercial fitting and bolts have smooth thread because they are rolled between two flat dies. Hydraulic hoses can be tapered or straight, but tape is used unless a sealing washer or o-ring is required. Manufactures engineers have tested fitting at pressure, so using their recommended products or procedure is best.
Great job - used your video as a good guide for install. Rectorseal is the ticket to seal pipe threads.
Glad it helped you!
I found that the Blue Block pipe dope on all my gas threads and Teflon tape. Blue Block works great but no matter how neat you apply it to threads you always seem to make a mess with it. And it's difficult to remove from your hands or from your tools. We use it on gas and oil refineries and it's great .
Great job,i will be installing LP line with tee at 57ft and continue to garage +home has to be hand dug10/16/20 next fri i will dig dig i will follow how you installed your line and testing so thanks for your video and your time it will help me Gary
Gary Trent thanks, good luck with your project!
Great video...very informative 👍 and well explained. 👏 thanks 😁
Thanks, Juan!
Like the video. I want to run gass to my garage (detached). If you ever use pipe sealer like the plumbers tape you want to go around at least 3 times. 1 time around never does it.
Cool - Congrats on a job well done - Working on something similar for gas to a generator located away from the building
Thanks! Good luck with yours.
Thanks for the video though! Very straight forward.
Next time use Teflon and dope, never had a leak because of it, btw where I live it’s a 3psi test for 10 minutes but that could be local to you but that’s what we do at work
Good advice, thank you!
Dope on teflon or teflon on dope?
In Ontario Canada you must put a shut off valve where the pipe leaves a building and before it enters a building. You would fail the inspection and could have your gas locked out.
My friend u did a great job!!! But....never, never use again teflon for NG or Propane....Please use pipe dope...its a law in north american....your friend gas tech. I'm worked 30 years in the hvacr industry as a technician . Good luck mate, all the best.
Edinaldo Manuel thanks! Glad to hear from those with experience.
Can you use both? Or is it not as good of a seal that way?
@@nhlninetyfour never both. stick with the dope. totally agree. the yellow tape can work but the dope is best and acts as lube as well for tightening. dont be afraid to tighten those connections.
great leak inspection
I couldn't tell but you need 4 or 5 wraps when using the teflon tape.
Thanks for the video Just what I was looking for man !
No problem!!
Permits?! I may have forgot those... FREEDOM!
just to let you know missdig is only a notification service for local utility companies, and utility companies dont have too mark your line if they dont want too becuz its a private line and not owned by the companies.
It's handy to use a union on the upright so you can orient your black pipe elbow at the torque that makes you happy. Right now its where you have it or one full revolution more or less. Some times one...more...full ...turn...and TINK...damn it... crack on the casting seam. Maybe it's just me, but I've never had to crank the bejesus out of gas lines and haven't had trouble with leaks. Do the underground transitions (sweeps) have less of a taper to the thread, or the quality of threaded fittings isn't what it used to be. Dunno. Oh yeah, I use some can of goop intended for gas and name brand yellow teflon tape, not the generic chinesium stuff. Than you for the video, I'm still digging.
Brian, just saw this, that’s a great idea with the union! I really didn’t like the torque being determined by the direction the pipe had to face. You are totally right.
I knew that joint wasn't going to seal when I saw how little tape you put on the threads lol
I learned the hard way 😅
I am also in Michigan. I am surprised a swing joint isnt required.
Lol " leak detector " just use soapy water in a spray bottle man save $$
Edit: I did love your video. Thank you.
Good call! Thanks for the kind words.
Michigan ? I heard miss dig and was like I know those folks lol
Yep! Southeast MI
Never used tape on gas piping. Pipe “dope”/ sealant only. For some reason some tape breaks down over time and causes leaks. Master licensed plumber info.
Should have valves on both risers and insulated unions, and most importantly swing joints for movement, pipe wrap or sleeve where it goes through the wall and the pressure test should be 50 psi for underground piping. Most jurisdictions won’t allow this work to be done by home owners.
Looks like you do some beautiful work up there in Canada. People should watch your videos instead of mine.
When I saw you tightening the fittings the first time with just 1 pipe wrench and just a hand securing the other pipe, I was expecting it to leak. I always use 2 wrenches, with one propped against a concrete floor when I can, and put my full weight on the wrench. But not nice leaving jaw marks on that purty steel pipe. I was also thinking you needed bigger wrenches to grab the large plastic nuts on the couplers. But, you got it all working, so no leaking methane to threaten Mother Earth's climate.
of you look closely, his pipe wrench teeth were on the open end of the fitting, not on the hub being threaded
likely deformed it (round to oval), hence the leak
@@walterbrunswick the fitting is a 3/4” black Schedule 40 cast steel 90 elbow, first the leak occurred between the threads of the gas riser and the elbow, not the open end. Second cast fittings do not distort to oval, they crack or break. This design is intensional so that distorted fittings do not occur. His mistake was not using two wrenches, one to tighten the fitting and one back wrench on the riser to allow tighten at least one more turn. You are correct in do not have the wrench on the open end but that is not what caused his leaks.
@@wirefeed3419 my friend, you are confused
Steel aka malleable steel aka black steel is what is specified for gas, and this carbon steel DOES indeed deform
You are thinking about cast iron, which has 2% carbon content, which does NOT deform, it cracks/shatters, due to its hardness and brittleness
Those I see in old houses from early 1900's used for radiant and steam heating .... we would smash the fittings apart using a small sledge hammer when doing renovations
You CANNOT use cast fittings for gas(!!)
interesting enough we are both in error. I forgot this is UA-cam where every word can be scrutinized. I incorrectly used “ Cast “ Steel without including “Malleable” allowing perception by some that I meant “Cast Iron” in the identifier, you will see I said “steel” Not Iron.
where I am not in error is black steel gas fittings as you have said are “Malleable iron fittings” that are “cast in a Mold”.
I do not know your experience but I have cut, threaded, and fitting miles worth of gas pipe and gas fittings and a gas fitting does not deform under normal tightening “forces applied by man power” . A poorly cast/ molded fitting can and do have flaws in the casting which allow the fitting to crack , leak or have a section break away. You are correct that Carbon Cast Iron fittings , typically used in Drain can and is fairly easily broken with hammer forces applied. You can beat a gas fitting with a hammer all day and it will not break apart, it will deform and at point crack . You may wish to disagree with my claim, my suggestion then would be that you try and deform or break a gas fitting through tightening using wrenches as hard as you can, I can assure you will power out long before the fitting will deform even on the open ended shoulder. Again as I said you are correct, it is poor fitting practice to fit the wrench to the open end of a fitting, always fit the wrench to the end being tightened to another.
@@walterbrunswick good advice all around. Thank you.
Wrap the teflon around first then do pipedope ontop, tighten to some good ugga duggas, you'll never have a problem.
YEP !!!!!
Uggs duggas,. Thanks for the laugh today. We just say couple grunts.
Anyone know where I can get gas pipes, 90’s and couplings ?
@@humbertoguillen6036 I do
I see this connection every place on you tube but I also see a barb fitting often used to connect to black pipe. IF it is ok to use barb on connection why is it not ok to use on a splice ? Also if the main lines are heated and pushed together to bond would that not be better?
Maybe a pro can chime in here!
The tracer wire should not come in contact with the yellow poly line. Back fill the hole to cover the poly a few inches then lay the tracer wire on top. I have seen lighting strike the wire and since it was touching the poly it burnt a whole in the poly.
Wow, crazy. My inspector instructed me to zip tie the tracer wire to the PE pipe. It seems like the code leaves this somewhat open to interpretation. IFGC 404.17.3 states “tracer wire or other approved conductor, or a product specifically designed for that purpose, shall be installed adjacent to underground nonmetallic piping.” You are the second person to bring this up. I would love to hear what others are doing.
@@ShawnFerret the gas company I work for covers the ploy with dirt before we run the tracer wire. My boss told us a story about how they taped the tracer wire to the poly ever 5ft and lightning struck it and burnt a hole at every place it was taped.
@@ht-xo3mg yikes.
Hi there Can I adding a T before the dryer valve and taking another 1/2” line to the stove and adding another valve for the stove my concern is having enough gas pressure for both units running at the same time
Hi, there are some calculations you have to make based on the BTU of the appliance and the length of run to it. I am not an expert I just used Google.
One thing I am wondering is: the steel J shaped pipe and the elbow fitting seem like they usually want to end up all in line going opposite directions (like a Z), but what if when you tighten the elbow it faces off in some wonky direction? Then, if the elbow goes square into the building, the bottom of the J would be aimed some weird direction (hopefully not back toward the elbow!)
I was worried about this too, but with pipe thread it seems easier to keep turning until it lines up, even if it gets pretty tight/hard.
@@ShawnFerret or re tape or add or or a touch... less tape to time it right. But yea keep it tight
A union would allow for misalignment.
Just want to let the comment experts know, we use yellow gas tape because the normal white tape is petroleum based. Aka an ignition source.
Tape and double dope
Was always told not to attach tracer wire as a lightening strike can cause wire to pure through plastic line
Burn
It’s required by code here... hope it doesn’t burn!
Are the risers the same inch pipe as the gas line? Because I would have just used regular yellow couplings to connect the riser to the gas line and make sure you move the heat torch and get an even melt before bonding them and make sure you hold it for 8 to 10 seconds or more so it sets as tight as it should
They were the same size. At the time I wasn't aware there was another option for connect PE pipes together. Thanks for sharing!
Oh yeah and I use Kevlar tape and pipe dope at the same time
Does the riser come up from the front of (like my garage) then goes in sideways through the wall? Or could the riser come up through the foundation in between the framing hidden? Thanks for any help Dave
Hi Dave, my local building codes required me to run this through the wall instead of the foundation. I have seen other buildings elsewhere where it comes through the foundation, but have no knowledge of whether that is right or wrong.
Shawn thanks for posting this video, good job! Couple of questions 1) Did you have to ground that underground pipe? 2) With regards to the 14g burial wire - what does that connect to? Thanks!
Hi Paul. The yellow underground pipe is plastic, so it isn’t grounded. Inside the house I used metal CSST to connect to the existing gas pipes, and the CSST had to be grounded. The 14g wire just sticks out of the ground and doesn’t connect anywhere. In the event that someone needs to trace the location of the buried plastic pipe in the future, they can hook their tracing equipment to that wire.
Watch Roger Wakefield gas line repair ... that’s how a real gas line is done
haha - good ol brake clean!!
I had to do That. But the Line was not straight. So I had to go back and dig it wider to one side. The sides still had the grass. So I did it like an assembly line. I dug in thrown the dirt back over the Line and Dug back downwards to wear I needed to be. The line was recovered but with broken dirt. I had to stop and do something. I was going to Dig the broken dirt over the Line up, The Boss shows up and goes. What the he'll you covered up the Line. If I was to take the shovel full of dirt and put it in a pile. I would Have been there even longer. This way I simply dig up the broken dirt around the Line. But you know the boss don't care. 😟
By zip tying the tracer wire to the poly if it were to ever by struck by lightning a hole would be burned in the poly. The poly is supposed to be dirt between the poly and tracer wire.
Good advice.
What are those underground union connectors that were used?
We use either Fusion or stab fittings. Never seen twist fittings.
They are made by HomeFlex and they sell them at big box stores. I think they are meant for DIYers as most professionals seem to have better methods.
Always use a back up.
So the reason I am even on this video is because I might buy a house in my neighborhood but I know that most of the houses have electric stoves and water heaters when we moved it 35 years ago the neighborhood was being built so we were given the option so we chose gas and some other people have gas too but most don't so if I buy a house that doesn't is it possible to add a gas line to a house that has none? The house is on a slab I would imagine it could be done but at what cost like would they have to drill through the slab could it mess up the foundation?
Hi, Jayden. You would need a pro to chime in here. I think getting gas from the street to the house is a lot different than what I’ve done here. I’m pretty sure it’s higher pressure up until it gets to the regulator at the house, so the materials I’ve used here aren’t applicable. The point of entry to your home would be dictated by your local codes, so a local pro or building official would know best. Around here in Michigan, they come in through a rim joist or just through the wall on a slab house, not under the slab from what I have seen.
I wondered if using that yellow plastic type tubing for gas is allowed here in Ontario...i think all gas lines in the ground are the steel ones
I don’t remember if I said it, but I’m in Michigan.
What kind of instrument can trace the gas line from above the ground? Is it available to buy from hardware store?
www.engineersupply.com/underground-utility-location-equipment-explained.aspx
I was gonna do this myself. Now I'm seeing all the leaks I think I'll not bother. Guess I could do the trenching at least.
It was definitely harder than I thought it would be.
I ran about 180 feet of gas line to my barn. I set the pressure test to 10 psi and let it sit for about 30 hours. When I came back it was much cooler out and had lost less than 1/2 psi of pressure.
Is this within spec? I am having trouble finding the code for my area.
Maybe a pro will chime in on the national standard here.
@@ShawnFerret it has been holding pressure for about 48 hours and increased to about 10 psi. So I think it was just from the temperature drop. I plan to let it sit for a little longer and see what happens. Thanks again!
30 hours is way to long. Do 10-15 mins test. If it's going to leak you'll know it in that time frame. Yes hot & cold temperature plans a big part, so just test on a normal day. As for asking for specs, not sure how to answer that. I'm in Florida and I know a lot of States have different laws and regulations. It would be easier to just stop by your local plumber and ask them. To ease your mind, you don't have a leak. Your gauge would be a zero way before 30 hours.
Clean the yellow plastic with pure alcohol just before placing it in the coupling and make sure there are no dents, burrs, scrapes, or short long cuts, even shallow ones.
Nice. What size diameter is that gas line?
anotherbri it’s 3/4 inch
Not sure why you didn't run a continuous line into the building without valves/couplings underground.
Hi Jim. The codes here didn’t allow me to come up through the floor of the building, I had to go through the wall. The PE isn’t rated for UV or impact, so the pipe had to be metal where it exits the ground, thus the need for fittings to convert from PE to metal.
Yeah Jim I was thinking the same thing. But once he mentioned permit and inspector, I knew right away he had to do it this way.
I'm going through this now actually, I'm going to be building a new garage with new concrete and I want to run this kind of line. I called the company and they said that I could use PVC for electric in the footing of the floor and then run the Flexline threw it up into the garage. It just can't come into contact with the concrete. OR, I use the adapter that goes from Flexline to hard pipe and run that into the garage. Then it's only one connection.
I'm not really worried about getting the other end into the house to attach it to the gas line, my only concern has been trying to figure out how to get the Flexline through the new cement into the garage. 🙄
Kinda new to this and catching up. However, I didn't realize you could run flex that far. I thought I read sth where the max length of the run allowed was 6' and only for appliances. I was thinking I would need to use black iron since I need a line to go to the opposite side of the house built on a slab. Still trying to work out the best way.
The line I buried was polyethylene (PE) tubing and it really wasn’t that flexible! Wide sweeping bends is about all I could get out of it. You may be thinking of CSST which is commonly referred to as “flex”. You can’t bury CSST since it has steel in it and can degrade over time, but I do have some longer CSST runs in my crawl space where it’s allowed.
Its not flex. It is bendable but not flexible. That yellow polyethylene plastic is the same plastic as the larger newer main gas lines running throughout the cities. The old plastic lines were PVC which are corroding in the ground. Flex gasline looks like aluminum flex electrical lines.
You can use pipe dope and Teflon, you’re probably only running .25 pound so it’s not so bad.
Far as zip ties go, I’d have used electrical tape.
What did you use to trench under the concrete sidewalk to the house? I need to do the same to my detached shop but have a slab to travel under.
I dug it out by hand with a shovel and a spade. When I did the electrical I punched through by hammering a piece of conduit through.
What you spray on there riser head?
Brake clean.
If you must do a joint a second time- something is wrong and it's that teflon tape junk. Use Pipe dope! If you have to really bear down on a fitting- something is wrong- threads are no good- buy quality fittings.
Definitely using pipe dope from now on! Good tip about the fittings. I bought them from Home Depot and I had to crank down really hard on the Home-Flex risers.
Shawn Ferret what do you spread the pipe thread with before you wrap the Teflon on, and what is the reason for doing that?
Wisconsin Street I was just using Brake Clean (automotive degreaser) to get the oil off the pipe. Maybe I should have left it on there? On cars we clean things before we seal them! The tape didn’t end up working and I went back and used pipe dope.
Where's the second stage regulator at the house and the shutoff? Is this for heat, hot water and cooking?
The shutoff for this leg is accessible under the house, and there is another shutoff now installed inside the shop where I had the gauge. I am not familiar with 2nd stage regulators for natural gas - I thought that was for propane. I was not required by my local code to add another regulator. This runs a furnace.
@@ShawnFerret Nevermind realize now it's a NG install.
How much did all materials cost?
This was a while ago, but at the time I think about $300.
I had a leak ,over tighted ball vale(cracked brass China ball valve )
No fun!
I would have put a union between the riser and the piping going into the shop. That way if you ever need to open it up you don't have to take everything apart.
Good point!
Ask me how I know...LOL...
@@cleansebob1 haha!
I’m a Tennant connecting a gas line for a furnace. My apartments main gas line is 1/2” all I have is 3/8 pvc, my buddy says it’s better to use steel and pvc is not compatible for gas. I don’t see the difference 🙄
My question is the 3/8 is too small to fit the nipple. Is it acceptable using the pipe tape to build up the smaller plastic pipe and thread it on the larger steel gas pipe? It gas checks with no leaks and plastic won’t spark. So far the heater has been phenomenal. If you want a recommendation for a wall heater pm me. Peace.
Hi James, I won’t comment right/wrong about what you’ve done other than to say you should absolutely be getting it inspected by a professional to verify what you’ve done is safe. I pulled a permit and had the local inspector come out to verify my work.
@@ShawnFerret I don’t need an inspector as all I want to know is if it’s OK using different size pipe to use the Teflon tape as to make the fitting work. It seems tight and leak free. That’s it. Not getting an inspector. Ludicrous for a small job of this nature
@@jamesdewer PVC doesn’t meet code. I’m not sure what standards you are attempting to meet. NFPA and IFGC are two applicable standards in the U.S. Any DIYer should still be holding themselves to applicable local standards, whether or not they choose to get an inspection. Gas is not worth being unsure about. Just because it doesn’t leak now doesn’t mean it won’t, if you haven’t used the correct materials and fittings.
@@ShawnFerret Excellent advice to follow correct procedure that you have used. By obtaining a permit and working With the area inspector you will know your job is installed in accordance with gas code and applicable standards. You will know your installation is correct, your system will work and last as the manufacture requires and most importantly you know your home and family is safe. Very well Done installation and the same for providing good direction to the other individual that has absolutely no clue what he is doing, has no respect for gas safety and even less care for his family’s safety. I am sure the property owner and the insurer for the property he is renting will in fact find it very ludicrous that he chose to do unauthorized gas work as a tenant. The lawsuit will be the same if the property only burns or fully explodes into toothpicks. That is If he doesn’t kill him self or others in the process. Has No clue what he is doing but doesn’t need inspection. Perfect.
Does the owner pull the permit and inspection for a gas job like this?
This is my house, so I pulled my own permit, and called for the inspection myself (it’s allowed here in MI but not everywhere). Typically a contractor would pull the permit if you are paying a professional to do the work. That provides you a measure of protection as a consumer.
How do you connect the end of that 1" gas line to an outlet that allows the appliances to hook into?
Flex connector and a shutoff
I will have another video soon of the furnace install!
How’d you figure out the pipe size?
Im going out about 105’ to the garage and the heater is a 80,000 BTU’s
Check out Section 402 of the IFGC (International Fuel Gas Code) for info on calculating pipe size.
codes.iccsafe.org/content/IFGC2018/chapter-4-gas-piping-installations
Hey Shawn use pipe dope and Teflon tape it always worked for me .question where is your vale and union at?
Marty Woodrow I put a valve under the house so I can shut off the leg that is buried, and there is another valve inside the building where it enters. There is a union at the furnace installed in the shop. I used CSST under the house.
Where did you get the pressure gauge for testing?
I got it right off the shelf at Home Depot. They stock them in the plumbing isle.
Here power has to be 10 feet from the regulator.
do aN AS built show all your buried connections
do you have a video on how you connected the supply gas to the outside line?
I just posted a video about installing the garage furnace, and it shows how I connected under the house using CSST.
ua-cam.com/video/yn9NQPKMoZ0/v-deo.html
@@ShawnFerret thanks so much! my BF and i are going to do this ourselves in the spring! Your video has been really helpful!!
@@donnarasmussen9937 glad it helps! Good luck with your project!
I know they are replacing old steel with new poly and using the old steel as a casing
How much do you pay for it?
Fang Feng about $200 in materials and $100 for the permit. I didn’t pay for the trench, one of my friends did it.
15 psi for 24 hrs, then ya solid, peace yall
Cannon Plumbing and Drain, LLC thanks!!
some people put yellow tape over gas line, so if someone digging they see the yellow tape before they hit the line.
edmundo oliver great idea!
That’s local code in some places
Isnt installing gas lines without a license/permit incredibly illegal?
Yes. I had a permit. In my town I don’t have to be licensed to perform work on my own house.
@@ShawnFerret oh okay. Carry on then lol.
All the comments about “you should be licensed”…. lol people can learn too without the certification
should of have a valve on both ends and a swing joint
Where did you buy this?
Menards carries this
Home Depot
Standards where I live you cannot have the tracer wire touching the gas pipe at any time. Should have been a qualified person from the utility company. I'm pretty sure this is standard practice anywhere?
This install met the standards in my location. Here a homeowner can do their own work as long as they pull a permit and pass inspections.
@@ShawnFerret Thank you for replying. I was a chief gas mechanic for National Grid in NY and the reason that tracer wire cannot touch the pipe is the tracer wire will carry lightning strikes and I have personally seen the damage to the pipe. But I get the standards are different all over. Just explaining why I wrote you. Love the videos!
What did you use for your gas line. I haven't found any rated for direct burial. Looking at doing this myself and don't want to run it in conduit if I don't have too.
ZXSwift I used a polyethylene gas pipe made by Home-Flex that they sell at Home Depot. The other big box stores carry other brands of poly gas pipe. It’s only for burial so you have to convert it to pipe where it comes out of the ground, or CSST when you enter a building.
Revival Amen I used 3/4” but I have seen up to 1” available. The size will depend on what BTU appliance you are running and how far the distance is.
Shawn Ferret may I ask how far you did run your poly, and how many btu you plan to use? I hope to do the same thing but only have 3/4 inch main gas line.
Thanks, and nice video
Bret Forfar I ran 80’ from the house to the shop. I teed off my 1 inch main line very close to the meter. I’m running a 80,000 btu furnace. From what I found it seems like 3/4” was okay for up to 100’ at 80,000 btu... but I will admit I didn’t do any calculations based off pressure I just estimated from google searching.
Shawn Ferret thanks for info.
Make a vid abt shel
Please folks .. hire a Licensed Plumber