I am beginning to think that people from Czechia, Slovakia and Poland are capable of modeling perfection straight out of the womb! This is a magnificent build. Thank you for displaying your brilliance in such an entertaining video presentation.
Oh, thank you for your support. I truly appreciate it. 😊🍻 I believe there are great modelers in every country, even better than me. 😅 I’m just a small fish compared to them…🫡😂
Excellent build and video. I have two 1/32 Tamiya A6M2b kits, one 30 percent completed that aid in correcting/improving a 1/24 Trumpeter build. All have added stressed skin effects, dents and uneven surfaces that were common on Zeros. IJN Hemp colour is historically accurate. I'm using Vallejo 71.023 (FS34201)
Thank you, buddy. Your builds are amazing; hats off to you.🙂↕️ I was also considering adding stressed skin effects to my Zero. But, at 1/48 scale, it might not look as impressive as it does on larger models.
@@Model_Addict Thank You. The colour /tone modulation in your painting gives the impression of a stressed skin surface. My intension is to build the 1/24 kit to resemble the restored aircraft from the, Texas Flying Legends Museum. It will be posed in flight with a pilot figure. I returned to the hobby in 2018. Retired from my business designing/fabricating/building custom motorcycles. The site is no longer but a couple of F/book pages and image searches of, Special Effects Chopperworks in Burlington, Ontario, Canada are still online. The skill sets and required discipline from that crossed over to help with model building. Since finding your channel and watching the Spitfire build, an official RAF training film on the practices/procedure for painting, 'High Speed', aircraft is posted on my channel that you may find interesting.
Thank you for sharing this wonderful film. Such attention to detail and captured so well with good narration. The model completed was such a great piece of artwork and real craftsmanship. I look forward to further builds and films. Best wishes to you. 😊
Thank you so much. The Wildcat is already waiting in the stash for its moment. It's even a dual combo set. I’m not sure how I’ll present it in the video yet, but I’ll figure it out. 😅🤙
I have a question about the Mr Surfacer 1500 's. I can never get mine to spray out of my airbrushes properly. I have them thinned to what I believe is 70/30 (Primer- levelling thinner). Anyways, this is GORGEOUS! Absolutely museum quality, no doubt.
Oh, thanks, mate! 👋 I also used to have trouble spraying paints, especially Surfacer. It's thick and heavy. I kept getting a gritty texture on the models, especially in areas where parts met at a 90-degree angle or more. I solved it by thinning the paints even more. It depends on the specific paint, but I always try to keep the consistency around that of milk and apply it in thin layers. It takes longer, but it works well for me.🤝
Wonderful, thank you! I'll thin it a bit more, because I was getting that grit as well. I've been using the Mr Surfacer 1000 in the rattle cans in the mean time, which works wonders as well! No sense in having different primers if you don't use them though!
Very nice job But I always think that companies like Vallejo are earning big money on products that we are only using 10 drops a year on. but you have to buy 30ml, enough for 10 years. I think we have to made it ourselves. Respect for your video and maybe sponsores.
Oh, thanks for the support. Like everything else, this segment is also about money. In the past, I tried to replace most products with whatever I had on hand or mixed things myself. But now, I’m more inclined to just open, use, close, and not worry about it.👍
Thanks, mate! There won't be any files available for this engine. It's part of the add-on set from Eduard, Cat.No. 648763. The only options are to buy the set or model your own engine.
Beautiful build indeed. I just disagree with that dirty look. The planes flown by 12th Kokutai in combat testing in China were basically brand new. Paint fading/bleaching on outside wing sections and rear fuselage (since the standard tarps covered only the engine, cockpit and wing center section) was prominent though and you missed that. Please correct the video title to IJNAF (Imperial Japanese NAVY Air Force), it's also misspelled somewhere in the video subtitles. I don't think Zero looks good without the cowling.
Thank you for the advice! 😁The aircraft will be part of a diorama, that is why the panels are opened. If I were building a standalone model, I would keep them closed. As for the weathering, I like to present models that look more used. This is because such a model tends to attract more attention. Of course, it doesn't always have to match the historical reference 100%, just like in this case. Cheers.🤝
@@Model_Addict No problem, and glad you fixed that IJNAF nomenclature. If intended for diorama then it makes sense. I understand "attraction" factor but very much prefer historic accuracy. It seems you're located in Slovakia? I'm from there. I liked your Slovak AF Mig-29 build, I'm planning to build the same. After I finish Slovak L-29 and L-39!
Unfortunately a lot of modellers have fallen into the trap of weathering a plane until it looks like a death trap, the one that annoys me the most is where they weather to death the landing gear bay/weapons bay and present a pool of fluid on the ceiling part of those bays…implying that the plane was stored upside down so all the leaking fluid accumulated on the ceiling rather than dripping down on to the inner side of bay doors….like they would in reality….because of a thing called….gravity. But I doubt that will stop them from making a brand new state of the art stealth fighter looking like it’s 120 years old and emptied its entire hydraulic fluid tank into its wheel/weapons bays 😂🤭
Good point about the potential source of mistakes. Still, I think that layering has its value. Each paint manufacturer has a formula that works in a certain way. It’s about finding methods that make the most of their products. Time isn’t a factor for me. The most important thing for me is how well I can control the flow of paint from the airbrush. Based on that, I chose the paint. If your priority is to cover the model in one layer as quickly and affordably as possible, and Humbrol or Revell works for you, no problem. 🤙
@@Model_Addict Think I understand: there are so many products and ists youst fun and curiosity to try and find the fafourite of all the different stuff to get your bestliked result. Thanh you for charing
Hi, I find them easy to work with. The only issue I see is that, when viewed up close, the printing pattern might be visible. However, this mainly applies to large, solid-colored areas. These can still be painted using masks. 🫡
I'm happy Eduard finally gave away the formula for IJN Hemp Grey.
I am beginning to think that people from Czechia, Slovakia and Poland are capable of modeling perfection straight out of the womb! This is a magnificent build. Thank you for displaying your brilliance in such an entertaining video presentation.
Oh, thank you for your support. I truly appreciate it. 😊🍻 I believe there are great modelers in every country, even better than me. 😅 I’m just a small fish compared to them…🫡😂
Best 1/48 Zero I have seen, super realistic, no over the top weathering.
Thank you, I appreciate it. ❤️🍻🫡
Excellent build and video. I have two 1/32 Tamiya A6M2b kits, one 30 percent completed that aid in correcting/improving a 1/24 Trumpeter build. All have added stressed skin effects, dents and uneven surfaces that were common on Zeros. IJN Hemp colour is historically accurate. I'm using Vallejo 71.023 (FS34201)
Thank you, buddy. Your builds are amazing; hats off to you.🙂↕️ I was also considering adding stressed skin effects to my Zero. But, at 1/48 scale, it might not look as impressive as it does on larger models.
@@Model_Addict Thank You. The colour /tone modulation in your painting gives the impression of a stressed skin surface. My intension is to build the 1/24 kit to resemble the restored aircraft from the, Texas Flying Legends Museum. It will be posed in flight with a pilot figure.
I returned to the hobby in 2018. Retired from my business designing/fabricating/building custom motorcycles. The site is no longer but a couple of F/book pages and image searches of, Special Effects Chopperworks in Burlington, Ontario, Canada are still online. The skill sets and required discipline from that crossed over to help with model building.
Since finding your channel and watching the Spitfire build, an official RAF training film on the practices/procedure for painting, 'High Speed', aircraft is posted on my channel that you may find interesting.
Compelling, extraordinary work - beautiful to behold!!
Thank you, I really appreciate it. 😁👋
@@Model_Addict Not at all a problem!!
Really enjoyed watching you build a stunning model.
Thanks, buddy. 🫡😁👍
Thank you for sharing this wonderful film. Such attention to detail and captured so well with good narration. The model completed was such a great piece of artwork and real craftsmanship. I look forward to further builds and films. Best wishes to you. 😊
I appreciate your support. I'm already working on the next project and hope you'll like it. 😊
a lot of control here! well done
Thanks!
Superb! How about an Eduard Wildcat to go with it! Amazing work!
Thank you so much. The Wildcat is already waiting in the stash for its moment. It's even a dual combo set. I’m not sure how I’ll present it in the video yet, but I’ll figure it out. 😅🤙
First of yours I've watched. Absolutely amazing. You have a new subscriber!!
Thank you for your support. I appreciate it a lot. 🫡
Love it
Thanks!
Nice video... stunning build my friend...! Cheers from Argentina
Thanks mate! Cheers👍🫡
Extremely impressive!
😊🫡 thank you very much 😊
Amazing job!
Thank you! 🫡
Really well done!
Thanks! 😊👋
beautiful
Thank you. 😁😊
Outstanding! Subbed.
Thank you for your support😁👍
Very nice.
Good Job !!!! Congrats . 🙂
Thanks, mate!☺️
amazing build well talented like Plasmo ;)
Plasmo is the king. 💪I'm not even close to his level.🤧
Beautiful❤️
Thanks❤️
I have a question about the Mr Surfacer 1500 's. I can never get mine to spray out of my airbrushes properly. I have them thinned to what I believe is 70/30 (Primer- levelling thinner). Anyways, this is GORGEOUS! Absolutely museum quality, no doubt.
Oh, thanks, mate! 👋 I also used to have trouble spraying paints, especially Surfacer. It's thick and heavy. I kept getting a gritty texture on the models, especially in areas where parts met at a 90-degree angle or more. I solved it by thinning the paints even more. It depends on the specific paint, but I always try to keep the consistency around that of milk and apply it in thin layers. It takes longer, but it works well for me.🤝
Wonderful, thank you! I'll thin it a bit more, because I was getting that grit as well. I've been using the Mr Surfacer 1000 in the rattle cans in the mean time, which works wonders as well! No sense in having different primers if you don't use them though!
Very nice job
But I always think that companies like Vallejo are earning big money on products that we are only using 10 drops a year on. but you have to buy 30ml, enough for 10 years. I think we have to made it ourselves. Respect for your video and maybe sponsores.
Oh, thanks for the support. Like everything else, this segment is also about money. In the past, I tried to replace most products with whatever I had on hand or mixed things myself. But now, I’m more inclined to just open, use, close, and not worry about it.👍
Uncle Nighshift´s cousin? Very nice work BTW
The cousin from Aliexpress. What you ordered vs. what you got.😂
Excellent build! Are you using 0.2mm nozzle for primer or it's different size?
Hi, in this case, I used a 0.2mm nozzle. Sometimes, however, I use a 0.3mm one. I feel I have more control over the spray with a smaller nozzle.👍
Your weathering and tonal variations are beyond exceptional!!
Thank you. I'm really glad to hear that.😊
Wowww Mükemmel👌👌👌
Thanks!🤩
Hello, congratulations on your work. Could you tell me where I can get the files for 3D printing, such as the engine you used? Thank you.
Thanks, mate! There won't be any files available for this engine. It's part of the add-on set from Eduard, Cat.No. 648763. The only options are to buy the set or model your own engine.
🙂👍
Beautiful build indeed. I just disagree with that dirty look. The planes flown by 12th Kokutai in combat testing in China were basically brand new. Paint fading/bleaching on outside wing sections and rear fuselage (since the standard tarps covered only the engine, cockpit and wing center section) was prominent though and you missed that. Please correct the video title to IJNAF (Imperial Japanese NAVY Air Force), it's also misspelled somewhere in the video subtitles. I don't think Zero looks good without the cowling.
Thank you for the advice! 😁The aircraft will be part of a diorama, that is why the panels are opened. If I were building a standalone model, I would keep them closed. As for the weathering, I like to present models that look more used. This is because such a model tends to attract more attention. Of course, it doesn't always have to match the historical reference 100%, just like in this case. Cheers.🤝
@@Model_Addict No problem, and glad you fixed that IJNAF nomenclature. If intended for diorama then it makes sense. I understand "attraction" factor but very much prefer historic accuracy. It seems you're located in Slovakia? I'm from there. I liked your Slovak AF Mig-29 build, I'm planning to build the same. After I finish Slovak L-29 and L-39!
Unfortunately a lot of modellers have fallen into the trap of weathering a plane until it looks like a death trap, the one that annoys me the most is where they weather to death the landing gear bay/weapons bay and present a pool of fluid on the ceiling part of those bays…implying that the plane was stored upside down so all the leaking fluid accumulated on the ceiling rather than dripping down on to the inner side of bay doors….like they would in reality….because of a thing called….gravity. But I doubt that will stop them from making a brand new state of the art stealth fighter looking like it’s 120 years old and emptied its entire hydraulic fluid tank into its wheel/weapons bays 😂🤭
If you use Revell or Humbrol coulors, no priming is necessary- every layer of paint cost time& money and is a source of possible mistakes.
Good point about the potential source of mistakes. Still, I think that layering has its value. Each paint manufacturer has a formula that works in a certain way. It’s about finding methods that make the most of their products. Time isn’t a factor for me. The most important thing for me is how well I can control the flow of paint from the airbrush. Based on that, I chose the paint. If your priority is to cover the model in one layer as quickly and affordably as possible, and Humbrol or Revell works for you, no problem. 🤙
@@Model_Addict Think I understand: there are so many products and ists youst fun and curiosity to try and find the fafourite of all the different stuff to get your bestliked result. Thanh you for charing
😊🎉🎉😀😁☺️🤩🤩⭐⭐😇👍🤗💯
🫡
Campions league.
Thanks!
Eduard decals are horrible.
Hi, I find them easy to work with. The only issue I see is that, when viewed up close, the printing pattern might be visible. However, this mainly applies to large, solid-colored areas. These can still be painted using masks. 🫡
No they ain't, if used right they're brilliant. I've built 4 Eduard kits this year and I've not had any issues with the decals.
Amazing job!
Thank you 👋🍻
Great work!
Thanks! 🫡