Another beautiful build. I personally enjoy the longer videos. From my experience scale model builders don’t mind them, we tend to not suffer from short attention spans. 😂😂😂. If anything we spend too much time on things 😊
Awesome work Brett. Don't apologise for longer videos when the quality is this level. Beautiful Zero. Looking forward to building one myself one day. Inspirational work my friend.
It is a beautiful model, and your work on it has done it justice. Great build well narrated. I've only got back into modelling over the last couple of years and I'm enjoying more than I ever did. With added videos like yours and others has made my time spent on mine a real pleasure
I would say that you nailed it. I see many modelers who weather the snot out of these Zeros. Like you mentioned, they were well maintained and not heavily weathered. If you like the Zero, I would recommend the Combat Colors by Nicholas Millman. I got it and was blown away by the level of research into the Zero colors. You might want to check out the Weekend Edition A6M3 Type 32 (kit # 84191). There are some cool marking options in that one. I originally had the dual kit that you have and didn't really like it. As you mentioned, there are a lot of tiny parts and the instructions can be kind of vague as to where everything goes. I eventually got the weekend edition that I mentioned and tried again. You have to pay attention and be careful but I had better luck. I would say that they definitely require some skill and experience to get right.
Hey bud! So for that big hole on the rear canopy, I just stick a piece of foam in there. A small stick of it, and it hung outside the framing throughout the painting. Just pulled it after all was said and done. Easy peasy.
Like you, long time modeler. With all the tubes i finally ran across a easy understood ,informative chanel...YOU !!!!..very well done, a great learning video
I really enjoyed it, I think many people consider it to fall into the category of "over engineered", but I found it to be just the right amount of detail.
I just used their new decals for the first time and after you've let them set for a day or two you can come back and flood it with white spirits. The carrier film can then just be gently rubbed off and for the most part the decals will stay there, even the stencils. You just have to make sure that they have sucked down to the model or else it will pull the ink with it. This worked surprisingly well and was relieved with how easy it was.
I’m in the middle of my build of this kit, and I have to agree. The fit and engineering of this is amazing. The cockpit using the PE has turned into one of the best of my builds. And the way the upper fuselage in front of the cockpit is designed and fit is as good or better than anything Tamiya has designed. I am now proceeding to the engine for which I purchased Eduards Brassin kit and am really looking forward to that.
Regarding video lengths I would say don't fix something that isn't broken. Absorbing the detail and patience you put into all your builds can take all night as far as I'm concerned. Bravo sir. Superb again.
If you hadn't said this was a long video I wouldn't have noticed. Well done! I have a zero from Eduard on order technically its a Christmas present from my wife but I'm sure your build will be helpful in my own. Keep up the good work.
Just getting back in to scale modeling. Just wanted to clarify the paint type/order. Looks like you started with an enamel primer followed by the acrylic color. After the color coat go with laquer clear coat then decals and another coat of lacquer clear. After the second clear to blend in decals then do the weathering and oil staining. Finally ending with an acrylic dull coat. Guessing the key is to alternate the paint types to prevent subsequent coats from dissolving? Hope I was seeing it correctly
Yeah, I use a wide range of paint types, not necessarily because thats the way it has to be done, but this just happens to work with the products I use. But, you could get away with doing your priming and all your painting in one type (All acrylic or all lacquer for example. Typically you want a good barrier between your paint and weathering that wont react, thats why I use the Alclad Aqua Gloss (which is an acrylic btw). Really, testing out which products go well with each other is the key. Watch my video on the A-36 and you'll see what happens when I substitute out one product for a new one in my process with out testing. Spoiler: it doesn't go well! I've seen other modelers who can get great results using nothing but one brand of products. So, your mileage may vary, but this is the order of operations that I have become accustomed with. hope this helps, feel free to ask any follow ups if it's not clear! -Brett
You are right about the cockpit detail. I’ve built entire kits quicker than it took just to do that. But it does end up looking good. I’m hoping that Eduard bring out Weekend editions of this so that more people can enjoy it without forking over the extra for the pe etc.
Hi, fantastic model, good job. There is a thin film on the eduard decals that can be removed after application, then they look as if they were painted.
Hi buddy fantastic work I've just bought this kit after watching your video build.the kit looks awesome loads of detail straight out of the box. did you after re revit anywhere on the kit at all. your zero looks awesome mate. cheers Gary from the UK 🇬🇧.
Awesome build. I have just started the Hamp, but two things I would like to clarify. It seemed that when you were airbrushing, that you had removed the front nozzle. Is there a reason for this? Also, when you were glueing the clear parts, it looked like you were using Tamiya liquid cement. I always thought that this would cloud the clear parts.
Thanks for watching. Yes, I removed the nozzle shroud on my airbrush, I find that it helps avoid tip dry and I have to clean it less often, the part I removed is there simply to protect the nozzle, so its removal doesn't impact how it sprays. As for the Tamiya cement on the clear parts, so long as you are careful where and how much is applied, it won't damage the clear parts. If, for example, you were to get too much on, and it wicked up on to a non mating surface, it could cause issues. Superglue (CA glue) on the other hand can cause clouding on clear parts and I avoid using CA glue as much as possible on clear parts.
Amazing work. A question on the figure....what brand n where did u get it. I'm trying to decide on getting the tamiya zero kit that comes with 5 pilots or the eduard single zero 21 profi pack n buyer a figure separately....your thoughs on which to go with??? Again beautiful build
Thank you for watching. The Pilot figure is from a brand called ABK Models, I got it off Ebay. Thats a tough questions, Japanese pilot figures are not common and I would imagine that the Tamiya set that comes with 5 would be quite useful. I've not built their Zero, so I cannot comment on that kit, but based on my experience with other Tamiya kits, you probably would have a good experience with it, but it wouldn't be as detailed as the Eduard kit. Not sure if that is helpful at all.
@@HammerheadModelMaking very helpful. The raised rivets on the eduard makes me lean towards that kit but the pilots in the Tamiya kit....hhmm decisions decisions. Your video n diorama is what made me want to build a zero...the base itself is a work of art...the wooden deck and the differing boards...wow impressive. A video on making just the base wld be very interesting. Thanks again mate 👌🏼👍🏼
@@MG-we9np Thank you for the kind words, and good luck with your decision. I do plan to release a video detailing how I made the base at some point, so stay tuned for that!
I'm afraid not. But, I've had many requests for a video on how I make the flight decks for my displays, so I am planning on a separate video for that process!
A very good video build I've never built a Japanese ww2 plane this looks awesome and the length of the vid was just fine I really enjoyed it and look forward to the next one this kit is definitely on my to get list 😉 cheers kutgw 👍👍👍
Only just watched this video, brilliant work & i wouldn't apologise for doing longer videos. As a matter of interest, what ratio did you use to mix the clear blue & green paints? I've got a Zero to build and was looking to mix my own colour rather than buy paint for a possible one off build. Keep up the good work. Chris from England
Hi Chris, thanks for watching. I did the mixing by look, so I don't 100% remember the ratios, but if I had to guess it would be 60/40 blue/green. Then, thinned that mixture about 50/50. Hope that helps!
I do agree with you, the decals look much better with the carrier film removed. My issue is that I haven't quite figured out the correct way of doing that without ruining the underlying decal. Every time I try to remove the carrier film, I end up tearing the decal which ends up looking worse than leaving the carrier film on.
i love your build but just to be clear about painting the canape first layer of color should be interior green for the frame on the glass even you dont really see it it is just a detail but it add some realistic in your build aswell
Yes the engine cowl was a blue-black..and you did a great job..the only thing I'd like to know is.. what colors did you use to paint the fuselage gray,green, brown..which is the true color of the IJN ZERO ATTACK FIGHTER..??? BECAUSE YOU DIDN'T SAY THE EXACT COLOR OF THE PAINT YOU USED OR TELL US THE BRAND OF Paints you we're using and there number..what you did show was to brief ..???
I dont like the new eduard decals either. I always seem to chip one or more of the decals pulling the carrier film off no matter what kind of setting solution I use. So, I just install the decals the usual way and the carrier film disappears under the clear flat coat. That's my experience with them anyway.
Hey Brett! Obviously this is one of your older videos, but still the same quality as what you do now! Great build video, especially as I love this longer, showing everything format, just makes you see the whole build process! Anyways, from what I know, Eduard’s Zero Zero Zero dual set seems to be the same tool, right? If it is, I will definitely pick it up. Maybe you should redo a zero or some other Japanese aircraft a year later. Maybe you would do it differentely :)
As far as I know the Zero Zero Zero is mostly identical to the Tora Tora Tora set, I think just the markings are different. But regardless, I would recommend any of the Eduard Zero boxings. I still have the second zero from the Tora Tora Tora set I need to do and it would be good to revisit. As far as doing anything different, it would be how I deal with the decals. I have a much better grasp on how to use the Eduard Decals and I feel I could get a better result, or, barring that, get some paint masks made and paint the markings. But, that would be about it.
Hi, just to echo everyone else comments, fantastic build and throughly enjoyed it, it could have been longer. The base was a great finish and so too the pilot. Where was he from if you don’t mind me asking. I’ve just subscribed Jase 🇬🇧
The Type 11s were still early war, and I wasn't able to find any good reference images, so I imagine it would still be in relatively good condition, maybe some chipping along the leading edges of the wings and on the wingroots where the pilot would climb aboard.
i just purchased one of these kits, I have built around 20 models so I'm not that experienced does anyone have any tips for this kit such as chipping, etc?
If you're looking to build one of the Pearl Harbor attackers, they were in pretty good condition and wouldn't have had a lot of chipping, if any. If you're building a later war zero, then there are a few options for chipping, you can use the sponge method for applying chipping air hairspray/chipping fluid method.
So, photo etch is a component that is made out of really thin brass or steel. It is able to replicate very fine details and is stronger than a comparable part in plastic. You can see an example of that metal part being applied here: ua-cam.com/video/wjg4GuZBiWo/v-deo.html Most photo etch is supplied unpainted and you paint it along with the rest of your build, however, Eduard has really perfected "Pre-painted" photo etch. Hope this helps.
Beautiful deck but the plane looks boring posed against the grain of the wood floor. Nice work tho. I'm doing a fleet of 1/48 Japanese WW2 now and wonder what about all the chipping and paint failures I see on period movies. Thanks, Thailand Paul PS The painting job is really nice and realistic but you didn't fill the humongus joint between the fuselage and wing. I am doing a Zero on floats and my joints are even bigger. I'll just fill with Tamiya stuff. Thanks for the vids, I'm eager to see more and learn more about how they attacked my father's ship, USS Indianapolis. He shot down something but I'll probably never know which type. Paul
Great work Hammerhead... I have a Zeke kit about 85% complete and just ordered the tie-downs. Is there a tip for what stain you used on the balsa wood deck? A short tutorial about the deck build would be awesome... Thank you for this build. I am subscribed BTW.... 👍
Thanks for watching, I will be putting out a dedicated video on how I do my carrier deck bases. As for the staining used on this one, I believe I primed the wood with a black primer, painted it with Tamiya Deck Tan, then used a wash from AMMO Mig called Dark brown wash for Green vehicles. This was followed by a gloss coat of Alclad aqua gloss mixed with a little bit of Tamiya clear yellow and a drop of clear red.
Eduard make some great kits but IMHO, I shy away from them because they are a bit too detailed for my taste. Just my two cents. But for you, great job!
Nice build. But. Drop tank was droped before fight. That´s why it´s called drop tank. ;) So when your plane is after attack on Pearl Harbor, it´s don´t have drop tank.
Another beautiful build. I personally enjoy the longer videos. From my experience scale model builders don’t mind them, we tend to not suffer from short attention spans. 😂😂😂. If anything we spend too much time on things 😊
Thanks Joe!
I don't mind longer videos. The longer an more detailed the video, the better I like it.
Good to know!
Really enjoying the commentary on these videos. Great modelling, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Another fantastic build. Never apologize for a longer video. 😉
Thank you!
Awesome work Brett. Don't apologise for longer videos when the quality is this level. Beautiful Zero. Looking forward to building one myself one day. Inspirational work my friend.
Much appreciated, thanks for watching!
It is a beautiful model, and your work on it has done it justice. Great build well narrated. I've only got back into modelling over the last couple of years and I'm enjoying more than I ever did. With added videos like yours and others has made my time spent on mine a real pleasure
I'm glad you're enjoying your return to modeling! Thanks for watching!
I would say that you nailed it. I see many modelers who weather the snot out of these Zeros. Like you mentioned, they were well maintained and not heavily weathered. If you like the Zero, I would recommend the Combat Colors by Nicholas Millman. I got it and was blown away by the level of research into the Zero colors. You might want to check out the Weekend Edition A6M3 Type 32 (kit # 84191). There are some cool marking options in that one. I originally had the dual kit that you have and didn't really like it. As you mentioned, there are a lot of tiny parts and the instructions can be kind of vague as to where everything goes. I eventually got the weekend edition that I mentioned and tried again. You have to pay attention and be careful but I had better luck. I would say that they definitely require some skill and experience to get right.
Thank you, I'll look up that book, thanks for the recommendation!
Hey bud! So for that big hole on the rear canopy, I just stick a piece of foam in there. A small stick of it, and it hung outside the framing throughout the painting. Just pulled it after all was said and done. Easy peasy.
Well now I feel dumb that I didn't think of that! Lol.
Like you, long time modeler. With all the tubes i finally ran across a easy understood ,informative chanel...YOU !!!!..very well done, a great learning video
I appreciate the kind words, glad to meet a kindred spirit, thanks for watching!
I just picked up this kit and heard some mixed reviews. Your video is fantastic! I really appreciate your commentary and thoughts on the build process
I really enjoyed it, I think many people consider it to fall into the category of "over engineered", but I found it to be just the right amount of detail.
I just used their new decals for the first time and after you've let them set for a day or two you can come back and flood it with white spirits. The carrier film can then just be gently rubbed off and for the most part the decals will stay there, even the stencils. You just have to make sure that they have sucked down to the model or else it will pull the ink with it. This worked surprisingly well and was relieved with how easy it was.
Interesting, I hadn't heard that technique before, I'll have to test it out, thanks!
For the most part? That scares me!
Very ncejob on zero. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Your videos could be 2 hours long and I would still watch every second. I like to listen in my ear bud while I work on my own kits.
Mind boggling. So enjoyable to watch, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’m in the middle of my build of this kit, and I have to agree. The fit and engineering of this is amazing. The cockpit using the PE has turned into one of the best of my builds. And the way the upper fuselage in front of the cockpit is designed and fit is as good or better than anything Tamiya has designed. I am now proceeding to the engine for which I purchased Eduards Brassin kit and am really looking forward to that.
Very cool my friend, I think I would like to try my hand at a Brassin engine set for my next build. Good luck with the rest of your build!
Excellent build. You really pulled off the color modulation.
Thank you very much!
No worries about the video being to long. I liked all the explanations. Great kit and a great build!
Glad you liked it!
Came from the Insta! Super excited to check out this build!
Thanks! Cheers!
Great video. You made the build look so easy please take that as a compliment. Regards from U.K.
Thanks for watching, I think in reality, it wasn't a difficult build, Eduard sure did a great job with this kit!
Magnificent, very beautiful build. Really hope Eduard scale their Zero down to 1/72.
Thank you, I agree, it would be nice to see this in 72nd scale.
As much as I like the short reviews, I really like the longer buil format. beautiful model.
Thanks for watching!
woow quel montage et quel maîtrise que tu a 10/10 pour le model un vrais bonheur a regarder
Merci mon ami!
As always FANTASTIC video. I do like the longer videos.
Awesome, thank you!
Regarding video lengths I would say don't fix something that isn't broken. Absorbing the detail and patience you put into all your builds can take all night as far as I'm concerned. Bravo sir. Superb again.
Thats very kind of you to say, thank you so much!
Perfect video, length included! Your talking helps a lot. 👏
Awesome, thank you!
If you hadn't said this was a long video I wouldn't have noticed. Well done! I have a zero from Eduard on order technically its a Christmas present from my wife but I'm sure your build will be helpful in my own. Keep up the good work.
Well, I can confidently say that you will enjoy your Christmas gift! Thanks for watching!
Great job! I love the longer format!
Glad to hear it!
Awesome build as usual. Love the Zero.
Glad you enjoy it!
I really like your videos and content man..please keep the good stuff coming
Thanks for watching, I'm glad you are enjoying the content. I don't plan on stopping anytime soon and have some great projects coming up!
@@HammerheadModelMaking awesome!
Awesome build, the length of the video was fine.
Glad you liked it!
Fantastic 👏👏💯%
Thanks a lot 😊
Nice job.
Thank you!
I have every intentions of using some of what I see here with the Airfix zero... been putting it off but now I need to get it done!
Well, I hope the video is helpful, use as much as you want!
Nice work. I'm have this limited edition, your reference is good for me
Thank you, hopefully you can find the video helpful!
Just getting back in to scale modeling. Just wanted to clarify the paint type/order. Looks like you started with an enamel primer followed by the acrylic color. After the color coat go with laquer clear coat then decals and another coat of lacquer clear. After the second clear to blend in decals then do the weathering and oil staining. Finally ending with an acrylic dull coat. Guessing the key is to alternate the paint types to prevent subsequent coats from dissolving? Hope I was seeing it correctly
Yeah, I use a wide range of paint types, not necessarily because thats the way it has to be done, but this just happens to work with the products I use. But, you could get away with doing your priming and all your painting in one type (All acrylic or all lacquer for example. Typically you want a good barrier between your paint and weathering that wont react, thats why I use the Alclad Aqua Gloss (which is an acrylic btw). Really, testing out which products go well with each other is the key. Watch my video on the A-36 and you'll see what happens when I substitute out one product for a new one in my process with out testing. Spoiler: it doesn't go well!
I've seen other modelers who can get great results using nothing but one brand of products. So, your mileage may vary, but this is the order of operations that I have become accustomed with. hope this helps, feel free to ask any follow ups if it's not clear!
-Brett
Fantastic work, my friend! I really like the way you work! I like this plane so much, I also have this kit and soon you will see it on my bench ;)
Thanks mate! Look forward to seeing it on your bench!
You are right about the cockpit detail. I’ve built entire kits quicker than it took just to do that. But it does end up looking good.
I’m hoping that Eduard bring out Weekend editions of this so that more people can enjoy it without forking over the extra for the pe etc.
I wouldn't be surprised if they don't release a weekend version. I think it would look great even without the PE!
Really good video no keep them this longing I have fore of these to do nice paint job 👍👍
Thanks, will do!
Hi, fantastic model, good job. There is a thin film on the eduard decals that can be removed after application, then they look as if they were painted.
Thank you, yeah, I've tried removing the film on other projects and I end up just tearing the decal.
Much has been written about the Zero fighter. Nice work on Zero fighter.
Thank you!
Nice! Would love to see more 1/72 jets!
You're in luck, my next full build video should be a 72nd jet!
Hi buddy fantastic work I've just bought this kit after watching your video build.the kit looks awesome loads of detail straight out of the box. did you after re revit anywhere on the kit at all. your zero looks awesome mate. cheers Gary from the UK 🇬🇧.
Thanks Gary, I didn't add any rivets, all out of the box!
Thanks and dont apologize, more content is always welcome !
I appreciate it!
Awesome build. I have just started the Hamp, but two things I would like to clarify. It seemed that when you were airbrushing, that you had removed the front nozzle. Is there a reason for this? Also, when you were glueing the clear parts, it looked like you were using Tamiya liquid cement. I always thought that this would cloud the clear parts.
Thanks for watching.
Yes, I removed the nozzle shroud on my airbrush, I find that it helps avoid tip dry and I have to clean it less often, the part I removed is there simply to protect the nozzle, so its removal doesn't impact how it sprays.
As for the Tamiya cement on the clear parts, so long as you are careful where and how much is applied, it won't damage the clear parts. If, for example, you were to get too much on, and it wicked up on to a non mating surface, it could cause issues.
Superglue (CA glue) on the other hand can cause clouding on clear parts and I avoid using CA glue as much as possible on clear parts.
Amazing work. A question on the figure....what brand n where did u get it. I'm trying to decide on getting the tamiya zero kit that comes with 5 pilots or the eduard single zero 21 profi pack n buyer a figure separately....your thoughs on which to go with??? Again beautiful build
Thank you for watching. The Pilot figure is from a brand called ABK Models, I got it off Ebay. Thats a tough questions, Japanese pilot figures are not common and I would imagine that the Tamiya set that comes with 5 would be quite useful. I've not built their Zero, so I cannot comment on that kit, but based on my experience with other Tamiya kits, you probably would have a good experience with it, but it wouldn't be as detailed as the Eduard kit. Not sure if that is helpful at all.
@@HammerheadModelMaking very helpful. The raised rivets on the eduard makes me lean towards that kit but the pilots in the Tamiya kit....hhmm decisions decisions. Your video n diorama is what made me want to build a zero...the base itself is a work of art...the wooden deck and the differing boards...wow impressive. A video on making just the base wld be very interesting. Thanks again mate 👌🏼👍🏼
@@MG-we9np Thank you for the kind words, and good luck with your decision. I do plan to release a video detailing how I made the base at some point, so stay tuned for that!
Hey ! Nice work, do you have actually a video doing that flight deck ???
I'm afraid not. But, I've had many requests for a video on how I make the flight decks for my displays, so I am planning on a separate video for that process!
A very good video build I've never built a Japanese ww2 plane this looks awesome and the length of the vid was just fine I really enjoyed it and look forward to the next one this kit is definitely on my to get list 😉 cheers kutgw 👍👍👍
Thanks man, this was my first Japanese aircraft, I really enjoyed it though!
Only just watched this video, brilliant work & i wouldn't apologise for doing longer videos.
As a matter of interest, what ratio did you use to mix the clear blue & green paints? I've got a Zero to build and was looking to mix my own colour rather than buy paint for a possible one off build.
Keep up the good work.
Chris from England
Hi Chris, thanks for watching. I did the mixing by look, so I don't 100% remember the ratios, but if I had to guess it would be 60/40 blue/green. Then, thinned that mixture about 50/50. Hope that helps!
@@HammerheadModelMaking many thanks
Another great build Brett 😃. Would the drop tank still be attached? Didn't they tend to use them first and then ditch them before combat?
Thats actually a great observation and one that I didn't really research (rule of cool on this one I guess).
Thanx for the great build/video.
IMO, even if it's an option to
leave on the carrier film, the best results aestheticaly are
obtained by its removal.
I do agree with you, the decals look much better with the carrier film removed. My issue is that I haven't quite figured out the correct way of doing that without ruining the underlying decal. Every time I try to remove the carrier film, I end up tearing the decal which ends up looking worse than leaving the carrier film on.
i love your build but just to be clear about painting the canape first layer of color should be interior green for the frame on the glass even you dont really see it it is just a detail but it add some realistic in your build aswell
Thanks for the clarification!
Yes the engine cowl was a blue-black..and you did a great job..the only thing I'd like to know is.. what colors did you use to paint the fuselage gray,green, brown..which is the true color of the IJN ZERO ATTACK FIGHTER..???
BECAUSE YOU DIDN'T SAY THE EXACT COLOR OF THE PAINT YOU USED OR
TELL US THE BRAND OF Paints you we're using and there number..what you did show was to brief ..???
Thanks for the comments. For the main fuselage color I used Vallejo's IJA Light Grey Green 71.321 (FS34424) Hope that helps! Thanks for watching.
I dont like the new eduard decals either. I always seem to chip one or more of the decals pulling the carrier film off no matter what kind of setting solution I use. So, I just install the decals the usual way and the carrier film disappears under the clear flat coat. That's my experience with them anyway.
Glad to know I'm not the only one!
Hey Brett! Obviously this is one of your older videos, but still the same quality as what you do now! Great build video, especially as I love this longer, showing everything format, just makes you see the whole build process! Anyways, from what I know, Eduard’s Zero Zero Zero dual set seems to be the same tool, right? If it is, I will definitely pick it up. Maybe you should redo a zero or some other Japanese aircraft a year later. Maybe you would do it differentely :)
As far as I know the Zero Zero Zero is mostly identical to the Tora Tora Tora set, I think just the markings are different. But regardless, I would recommend any of the Eduard Zero boxings. I still have the second zero from the Tora Tora Tora set I need to do and it would be good to revisit. As far as doing anything different, it would be how I deal with the decals. I have a much better grasp on how to use the Eduard Decals and I feel I could get a better result, or, barring that, get some paint masks made and paint the markings. But, that would be about it.
Just as I thought! Thanks for the info! I guess I will pick P the first zero I see in my local hobby store, and I hope I won’t have any issue with it.
Hi, just to echo everyone else comments, fantastic build and throughly enjoyed it, it could have been longer.
The base was a great finish and so too the pilot. Where was he from if you don’t mind me asking.
I’ve just subscribed
Jase 🇬🇧
Thank you for the sub and for watching the video, the figure is from a company called A.B.&K. Models, I ordered it off Ebay.
Thanks 👍🏻
Turns out the hobby store I purchased the kit from sent me the type 11 zero not the type 21, what was the chipping like on the type 11?
The Type 11s were still early war, and I wasn't able to find any good reference images, so I imagine it would still be in relatively good condition, maybe some chipping along the leading edges of the wings and on the wingroots where the pilot would climb aboard.
keep those videos as long(est) as you want no(real) model builder will complain
Thanks!!
Great job, longer or shorter, doesn't really matter just a pleasure, thnx. Subbed 👍
Awesome, thank you for subscribing!
i just purchased one of these kits, I have built around 20 models so I'm not that experienced does anyone have any tips for this kit such as chipping, etc?
If you're looking to build one of the Pearl Harbor attackers, they were in pretty good condition and wouldn't have had a lot of chipping, if any. If you're building a later war zero, then there are a few options for chipping, you can use the sponge method for applying chipping air hairspray/chipping fluid method.
I’m building the A6M2 Zero Type 21 and I’m going to do option D
@@HammerheadModelMakingthanks for the tips
one thing i found out with removing the cover film on the decals is by putting a bit of painters masking tape on them and peeling it off
Oh, I can so relate to the struggles of video editing 🤣
the struggle is real!
Hi, at what psi do you spary vallejo varnish?
Hi, I usually spray the Varnish at around 20 psi.
@@HammerheadModelMaking thank you
What do you mean by "photo etched"?
So, photo etch is a component that is made out of really thin brass or steel. It is able to replicate very fine details and is stronger than a comparable part in plastic.
You can see an example of that metal part being applied here:
ua-cam.com/video/wjg4GuZBiWo/v-deo.html
Most photo etch is supplied unpainted and you paint it along with the rest of your build, however, Eduard has really perfected "Pre-painted" photo etch.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for the explanation! Amazing!
@@marklalone3091 You're welcome!
Beautiful deck but the plane looks boring posed against the grain of the wood floor. Nice work tho. I'm doing a fleet of 1/48 Japanese WW2 now and wonder what about all the chipping and paint failures I see on period movies. Thanks, Thailand Paul PS The painting job is really nice and realistic but you didn't fill the humongus joint between the fuselage and wing. I am doing a Zero on floats and my joints are even bigger. I'll just fill with Tamiya stuff. Thanks for the vids, I'm eager to see more and learn more about how they attacked my father's ship, USS Indianapolis. He shot down something but I'll probably never know which type. Paul
Thank you for the feedback! Be sure to check out my video on the USS Indianapolis!
Great work Hammerhead... I have a Zeke kit about 85% complete and just ordered the tie-downs. Is there a tip for what stain you used on the balsa wood deck? A short tutorial about the deck build would be awesome... Thank you for this build. I am subscribed BTW.... 👍
Thanks for watching, I will be putting out a dedicated video on how I do my carrier deck bases. As for the staining used on this one, I believe I primed the wood with a black primer, painted it with Tamiya Deck Tan, then used a wash from AMMO Mig called Dark brown wash for Green vehicles. This was followed by a gloss coat of Alclad aqua gloss mixed with a little bit of Tamiya clear yellow and a drop of clear red.
Eduard make some great kits but IMHO, I shy away from them because they are a bit too detailed for my taste. Just my two cents. But for you, great job!
Definitely, their newer stuff can be right on the edge of being overly detailed, but I still find them to be enjoyable builds and not frustrating.
大日本帝国海軍 第2航空戦隊所属 航空母艦 蒼龍戦闘機分隊長 菅波政治大尉 搭乗機
Yes, you are correct, thank you for watching.
Nice build. But. Drop tank was droped before fight. That´s why it´s called drop tank. ;)
So when your plane is after attack on Pearl Harbor, it´s don´t have drop tank.
Yeah, thats a good point I didn't consider whilst making it!