You guys saved my life once again. This is the 6th video that showed me how and what to do with my 2008 rav 4. Thanks so much. I'm also replacing the valve body on the transmission as soon as it gets here. Time consuming but it has to be done. I prey it helps and fixes the issue. Thanks again guys. Your all so amazing. 😊
My Grandpa bought a 2010 rav4 a couple days ago, wheel vearing was bad from the start so i assume thtas why the last owners sold it. Now here i am warching the perfrct video on the same year vehicle and everything, perfect camera angles and demonstration. This should be an easy job thanks to you guys
OMG!!! This was an amazing video. Gonna need some extra tools but feel really confident in doing this myself. Toyota trying to charge me $1200 each side totaling $2400+ tax.
Awesome video.Have an 07 rav4 and doing this soon. Have done brake pads and rotor and everything looks the same. Thanks for the tips you gave for removal and reassembly.
For all asking about the rotor removing bolts, I have a 2011 V6 limited Rav4 and the bolts that worked for me were a M8x1.25 thread. Also don’t forget to remove your abs sensor. It’s expensive if you break it.
I've tried using the slide hammer, sledge and the it seems the part that holds the wheel/rotor is separating from the part that attaches to the knuckle. I tried heating up the part, all kinds of penetrating lubricant and no joy. I'm about ready to remove the knuckle with the hub.
I have to do this on a 2010. I live in the rust belt and I have a feeling it's going to take a little longer than the 8 minutes it took to remove it in this video and more than just a few taps with a mini sledge.
I have a whirling rotational noise on my RAV4 2011. I still get the noise after news tires, rotors and brakes. Going to put my winter tires/rims on and test for the noise. Thinking wheel bearings would be the next thing to replace? 112k miles.
I have purchased a rear bearings for the RAV4 09 from your company and I replace them last night and this morning when I was driving I heard a very weird noise and then all of a sudden the ABS light and antilock all those lights they came out in the dashboard I am thinking this has something to do with the sensors I took the sensors out I replace the bearing with the sensors back I make sure that the wires or whatever that sensor it’s not touched or pinched or whatever and now I don’t know what the problem is is it the bearing itself that’s causing this or something else
Order a AXLE NUT REMOVAL TOOL instead of using a punch. I tried what he did and it shaved some metal rearwards instead of upwards and clear of the threads. They make a perfect tool for this but only could find it online.
+Beanbag109 Thanks for checking us out! This is a 12 mm bolt that was used. This may vary depending on the vehicle and the size of that provision. 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto That is not a 12mm bolt. The head of that bolt takes a 12mm wrench doesn't mean it's 12mm bolt. There are also 2 to 3 different thread pitches for most metric bolts. Care to try again at a correct answer?
I'm not a mechanic but I'm guessing you shouldn't have to. Can't see why you would need to as you didn't change the alignment settings but I might be wrong
I need to change my from right hub on my 2010 rav4, should I also change the left at the same time? Only the right side has a problem, it sound like the beating is bad.
+Plamen Dobrev It's usually a good idea to do both at the same time if it would be more convenient for you. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I changed the front driver hub on my 2010 Rav about 8 months ago, and all was well again... until now, when the front passenger hub went bad. And the first thing I thought was "man, I wish I had just gotten a pair and done them both at the same time."
I use an air hammer to push in the axles with pb blaster, slide hammer on the hub, and a wobble socket to remove the hub bolts wish all cars were bolt on
Yes my RAV4 should have been done yesterday but I tried to do what he did with a punch and it smushed some of the metal on the nut back. So now I’m worried this lower hanging metal will damage my threads. I ordered a axle nut removal tool which what I should have used from the start. If it doesn’t allow me to bend the crimp upward I will be left trying to Dremel that notch off. I have read horror stories about people taking that nut off with the crimp still not fully dealt with and wrecking their treads.
One thing you don't mention is make sure your caliper slider pins move freely in and out, it's very important if you want even brake pad wear and not a spongy brake pedal!!!
I prepped, pre-prepped, and now im at post-prep because I DONT HAVE A *DEEP* 30mm 12 point socket... mine is a normal length good thing.. "Watches it spin the fkin axle. as the sun goes down".
+Man as We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
You guys saved my life once again. This is the 6th video that showed me how and what to do with my 2008 rav 4. Thanks so much. I'm also replacing the valve body on the transmission as soon as it gets here. Time consuming but it has to be done. I prey it helps and fixes the issue. Thanks again guys. Your all so amazing. 😊
My Grandpa bought a 2010 rav4 a couple days ago, wheel vearing was bad from the start so i assume thtas why the last owners sold it. Now here i am warching the perfrct video on the same year vehicle and everything, perfect camera angles and demonstration. This should be an easy job thanks to you guys
Thank you guys for posting the version with the PBlaster and the tappy-tap-tap and not a rushed "this comes off, figure it out"
OMG!!! This was an amazing video. Gonna need some extra tools but feel really confident in doing this myself. Toyota trying to charge me $1200 each side totaling $2400+ tax.
F THAT! Couple hours of your time and $200-300 worth of parts to save 2 grand sounds like a good deal to me 😅
how did you manage to line up the center nut to the same spot you had to punch it?
Great video. Andy did a good job with the explanations. Step by step and very detailed. Well done!
I just did this about 6 mo's ago on our 2011. Living in the midwest, you learn to leave the abs sensor alone and work with it/around it.
Very clear. Thank you for including details like torque pounds. Much obliged.
Great video! You can use a brass drift when you hit the axle and you never have to worry about damaging the threads.
+Chicken Wings Thanks for the suggestion! 1aauto.com
Awesome video.Have an 07 rav4 and doing this soon. Have done brake pads and rotor and everything looks the same. Thanks for the tips you gave for removal and reassembly.
Thanks!
For all asking about the rotor removing bolts, I have a 2011 V6 limited Rav4 and the bolts that worked for me were a M8x1.25 thread. Also don’t forget to remove your abs sensor. It’s expensive if you break it.
Thanks for these video tutorials, you saved me a lot of money.
You guys are the Best to make videos thanks alot
+Roberto Diaz Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I've tried using the slide hammer, sledge and the it seems the part that holds the wheel/rotor is separating from the part that attaches to the knuckle. I tried heating up the part, all kinds of penetrating lubricant and no joy. I'm about ready to remove the knuckle with the hub.
Do you recommend having both front wheels in jack stands when replacing one side of the wheelhub ? Or is 1 ok?
What drive is the Torque Wrench you used?
Thank you very very much, from Canada. This was a dream job with your instruction. :-)
I have to do this on a 2010. I live in the rust belt and I have a feeling it's going to take a little longer than the 8 minutes it took to remove it in this video and more than just a few taps with a mini sledge.
Excellent video quality.
I have a whirling rotational noise on my RAV4 2011. I still get the noise after news tires, rotors and brakes. Going to put my winter tires/rims on and test for the noise. Thinking wheel bearings would be the next thing to replace? 112k miles.
Howww? The bolts in the back are blocked and I can't get them out. The axle won't move back any for me to bale able to
Do the bolts seat the bearing? Or do I have to have them pressed in? I have a 2003 & need to replace mine. Thanks
Does the 30 mm 12 point socket have to be a deep well ?
I have purchased a rear bearings for the RAV4 09 from your company and I replace them last night and this morning when I was driving I heard a very weird noise and then all of a sudden the ABS light and antilock all those lights they came out in the dashboard I am thinking this has something to do with the sensors I took the sensors out I replace the bearing with the sensors back I make sure that the wires or whatever that sensor it’s not touched or pinched or whatever and now I don’t know what the problem is is it the bearing itself that’s causing this or something else
Thank you for an awesome video! Much appreciated!👍
+apagan65 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video! Doing this on my 2010 RAV4 this weekend. Do I need to get an alignment afterwards?
Yes, it's recommended. From what I know.
Order a AXLE NUT REMOVAL TOOL instead of using a punch. I tried what he did and it shaved some metal rearwards instead of upwards and clear of the threads. They make a perfect tool for this but only could find it online.
at 2:45, what size bolt do you use to “assist “ in the removal of the rotor?
+Beanbag109 Thanks for checking us out! This is a 12 mm bolt that was used. This may vary depending on the vehicle and the size of that provision. 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto That is not a 12mm bolt. The head of that bolt takes a 12mm wrench doesn't mean it's 12mm bolt. There are also 2 to 3 different thread pitches for most metric bolts. Care to try again at a correct answer?
I went and bought 2 bolts. Holes looked about an M8 so I got an M8-1.25 and M8-1.0. The M8-1.25 was the one that worked for me.
Do you need to get an alignment after doing this?
I'm not a mechanic but I'm guessing you shouldn't have to. Can't see why you would need to as you didn't change the alignment settings but I might be wrong
2018 toyota sienta front wheel hub fix like this?
+@user-zu8fm9nw1u We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I need to change my from right hub on my 2010 rav4, should I also change the left at the same time? Only the right side has a problem, it sound like the beating is bad.
+Plamen Dobrev It's usually a good idea to do both at the same time if it would be more convenient for you. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I changed the front driver hub on my 2010 Rav about 8 months ago, and all was well again... until now, when the front passenger hub went bad.
And the first thing I thought was "man, I wish I had just gotten a pair and done them both at the same time."
Great job!
What is the size of punch you are using?
Why did you install new rotors and pads? You didn't mention a thing about that during the video.
Thank you for sharing
What size bolt did you use to remove the rotor?
I believe it's a 12mm, that's what he used for the rear hub on another vid
I use an air hammer to push in the axles with pb blaster, slide hammer on the hub, and a wobble socket to remove the hub bolts wish all cars were bolt on
No rust here in Cali
dont forget to take the cap off the brake resevoir before pushing the caliper back in
Job well done, thanks
Thanks for this vid!
Thank you!
It appears you reused the old axle nut. Why? Aren't you supposed to replace those with a fresh, new one?
Right, it's recommended to replace it.
Same process with the 4wd.?
+Santy Gomez This video is applicable to all 09, 10, 11, 12, Toyota Rav4 models. Thanks for watching.
Why take the calipers off?
im surprised constant vibration doesnt loosened up those bolts...
+dsrevo79 Thanks for the feedback!
Correct me if I am wrong but aren’t you not supposed to double click it when using a torque wrench?
huh that's the driverside rotor your putting on the passenger
While you were at it you should have done a brake fluid flush that fluid was nasty black! It's full of water.
Whoever tries this,that nut is a bear to get off and the part that is driven into the slot doesn’t come out easy.
+fw1421 Thanks for the feedback!
Yes my RAV4 should have been done yesterday but I tried to do what he did with a punch and it smushed some of the metal on the nut back. So now I’m worried this lower hanging metal will damage my threads.
I ordered a axle nut removal tool which what I should have used from the start. If it doesn’t allow me to bend the crimp upward I will be left trying to Dremel that notch off.
I have read horror stories about people taking that nut off with the crimp still not fully dealt with and wrecking their treads.
Can you take the caliper brackets off without taking the caliper off first? So the caliper and brackets are still together.
yes, absolutely.
If hit the studs, don’t bworry, you change the bearing assembly anyways, thanks
One thing you don't mention is make sure your caliper slider pins move freely in and out, it's very important if you want even brake pad wear and not a spongy brake pedal!!!
Looks like he put new ones in anyway, so it doesn't matter.
How much?
Public enemy #1: rust
I prepped, pre-prepped, and now im at post-prep because I DONT HAVE A *DEEP* 30mm 12 point socket... mine is a normal length good thing.. "Watches it spin the fkin axle. as the sun goes down".
Is it normal for 2010 Rav4 wheels to move back and forth or little play when parked?
+Man as We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c