You Must Do This With Your 80cc Engone Before Your First Ride!!!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Here is a tip video regarding what to do before your first ride. Many first time builders will build the bike, follow the oil mixture ratio, and go for a few mile ride to enjoy their new ride, BUT THEY MISS THIS VERY OFTER OVERLOOKED STEP! Make sure you do these simple procedures to ensure a solid, safe build. Thanks for watching and be sure to Like + Subscribe!!! 👍
www.southerncustomcc.com
as a technician, i can tell you for sure, never tight the bolts of any machine while is still hot.first let it cool down!!!also when you do, tight it in an X pattern
Looks more like a 50cc
I agree. The metel expands in the heat and contracts when it cools down. Tightening down the bolt while it's hot can cause a crack in your block as it cools.
You're meant to retighten the main head bolts AFTER you first heat cycle the engine, yes... BUT AFTER IT HAS COOLED DOWN, this gives it a chance to expand AND contract before the bolts being retightened. YOU NEVER TIGHTEN HEAD BOLTS WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT and trust me - I'm a automotive mechanic by trade. The reason you do not tighten head bolts whilst the engine is still hot is because you WILL snap the bolts. ALWAYS LET IT COOL DOWN.
Never ever tighten a hot part. It would easily overtighten and ruin it.
Agreed. Loctite is a much better option
At rt torque when engine is cool!!!! Will be fine!!!
The best 2 stroke video I've seen today. Because my motor mount snapped and I need to be reminded on how great these kits are
I know I just recently did my first build and now waiting on second motor to do my wife a build and put a car seat or something on it so the daughter can ride too
Just don't tighten up the bolts while the engine is HOT and RUNNING ,,, let it cool down first,,, THAT is how you do a COMPLETE heat CYCLE !!!
Yes do this for your first ride, to ensure you don't have a 2nd or 3rd ride! 😆
What he means is cycle the engine hot to cold two or three times- then come back and do your final torque of all bolts ( optimally, on these machines, pull the bolts nuts and washers- all hardware- then JB weld in some grade 8 USA hardware- beyond that remove head studs if 6mm - drill and retap for 8mm all thread) .. then keep upgrading. These bikes take a lot of work. However when you get them right they are amazing machines
Don't listen to this guy you never tighten anything down when the motor is hot
@Garage 250 Yes, parts expand and contract during temperature change; that's why nut and bolts have specific torque specifications and should be torqued at room temperature (the neutral state) so that when there is a rise or decrease in temperature there is room for it to expand or contract. This is why it is necessary to bring an engine to normal operating temperature before putting it under load; all of this is considered when specifying the torque value from the factory. If you over torque and there is an extreme temperature either hot or cold the parts will be past their limits and something must give, usually at its weakest point. For instance a warped surface or a crack in the parts and so forth. By over torqueing, the life expectancy will be greatly diminished. There is no need to put undue stress on parts that were designed to work within their limits. I know a lot of manuals say to check for things that may become lose during normal use. but that's to prevent mechanical failure and or bodily harm. If any repairs are done that were not to factory specifications the warranty becomes void. if you still believe you are right then so it be, I'm not here to put you down... I'm just giving the laws of physics. Take care and be safe.✌
@@treetops665 Best answer yet 5 stars.
DirtyThug1 / DaChopster / David F. are 100% on point. Never ever tighten a hot bolt or part.
Thanks man, I was just about to do my first build with my dad later today, so this is unbelievable helpful
Please just don't, misinformation
It would indeed be helpful if the info was correct.... but it's a shame I can picture this is gonna be a case of 'the blind leading the blind' LOL.
@@user-kc2ru5xo4k what info was incorrect so I know where I went wrong?
@@blargh6143 don't tighten down any bolts or fasteners whilst it's hot, ALWAYS allow it to cool down first, otherwise you will snap the bolts.
@@blargh6143 tightening the bolts while the engine is HOT & RUNNING (metal expands when hot & vibrating is putting stress on bolts as is) when your engine cools if the bolts don't snap the gasket surfaces will shrink apart and it will leak worse than the titanic !!!
It's the chain with this type of build that why I like the one without the chain
These will be "loose" once the engine is warmed because metal expands when heated, not because of moisture in gaskets.
By experience please wait until the engine cools back down to tighten the exhaust bolts further. They will snap in half if you attempt to do this while hot
Thanks I needed that to add to my ride routine.
Please let your motor cool down first...
Nice looking build! What frame is that? Looks like a nice stout bike; good lines...
Eric Ellquist the bike in this video is hyper 7 speed beach cruiser aluminum frame Wal-Mart sell $174 some aluminum frame can't handle the speed and vibration of road and that motor and crack if u look gastank frame bike some of those crack i like the black hyper it has metal frame. Huffy nel lusso will crack where that rear rack is welded the frame
2:53 - just a "bit" more eh? Wow, I just got one and I am going to go through this procedure when I break it in.
Yes. It seals the gaskets. Just don't over do it or the bolts could snap. Just make it snug. You'll only have to do it once. Have fun and happy building.
@@SouthernCustomCC thanks and super video
@@SouthernCustomCC the bolts would only snap if you're a clown and tightened it when it's hot.
Totally snapped one of those jug bolts on the right side
Never tighten these engines when they are hot ALWAYS wait until they are cold you will strip the threads
Yeah, if you warm it and tighten your destroying the threads In the aluminum head, never tighten when hot or running. That's a bad move, this video showed nothing good.. instead of tightening the bolts why not put lock thread(blue) in them, and tighten to specs.
Hi! I appreciate your input--truly. One of the objectives of this channel is to discuss builds and methods. I completely understand your view and concern. Personally, I have NEVER had a stripped threading from this engine. Not on the intake, exhaust, or jug. Yes, I have swapped exhausts after use--and the treading is still very secure. Of course one shouldn't Popeye the bolt when tightening it cold or warm, but I have not had a blown gasket, air leak, or oil spray from the jug since I have been doing this. Once again, I understand your POV, but I personally advocate for this process. Thanks for watching and being a part of the community!
9 times out of ten you are correct
YOUR RIGHT NEVER EVER TIGHTEN BOLTS ON A HOT ENGINE
Or snap the studs.
Thanks for the reminder
? How is your bike idle so low my kit whe the lever is locked It seems to be very high idle
Which it's the brand of your bicycle?
do u don't need locktight if u do this correctly?
He thinks it's tightening more while warm but really hes just destroying the threads in aluminum casting.... What do you think happens when it cools? Theres a high likelyhood they are going to crack
I was wondering if you have an extra expansion chamber exhaust for a 80cc motorized bike.
Hello:
Sorry, I do not. However, Amazon has mz65 clones for $50 with free shipping if interested. Best of luck
Did you use Loctite Blue on all of your fasteners?
On the engine mount fastners and studs, yes! Thanks
@@SouthernCustomCC but tighten bolts while the engine is HOT and RUNNING ???
NOT one single certified mechanic would EVER recommend THIS !!!
Unbelievable how much you were able to re-tighten those intake bolts. This is some invaluable information and I thank you for it.
Tightening up the bolts should NEVER be done while it is running and hot 🔥,,, good way to easily snap your bolts or warp your gasket surfaces...
Run the motor, let it COOL down,,, THEN tighten up the bolts !!!
What's the make and model is this engine I got one like this and know nothing about it thanks
Lol they're all the same - crap.
Good to know.
I just finished build mine but when I turn the throttle it does not engage but when it starts up is as if the throttle is full open hit release clutch shut right off why is that
You might want to check that the throttle linkage and slide are installed correctly. I’d start there
@@SouthernCustomCC good day and thank you. Sorry for the late replay,I just got a part that order. Now I have one more thing to ask. it starts a fine when the choke is open but soon as you close the choke on it shuts right off? And thank you for your help
Your throttle cable end is installed incorrectly into the carbie plunger.
cool a bolt tightening video ha
On the first ride do I add oil or not I can’t find shit
Yes. You add oil to your gas mixture. It is a necessity!!!!
Southern Custom CC I was worrying I was going to blow the engine like my last one so I’m being extra careful once I seen it smoking I stopped riding it thinking I messed something up because smoke was coming out the exhaust I don’t have a stock exhaust on it
What kind of bicycle is this
How do you tell when you've tighten the head bolts to the right ftpounds lol
Honest question. By feel. I do mine to 12 ft/lbs when setting up the engine. When I retighten them, it doesn't add much. I have never had a problem with blown gaskets or threading with this method either. I appreciate your input and thanks for watching!
@@SouthernCustomCC Its a shame its a garbage bike. It doesn't matter what you do to it. It will need constant maintenance and fall apart within a year. Hey dont worry your friends and family will give you good comments though. I bet your mom told you you were special too. OMG! your going to hurt someone with this junk
@@rodgerstowell5703 it's obvious Mr Southern Custom has no idea.
@@SouthernCustomCC don't be cheap and get yourself a torque wrench !! They're not expensive.
@@rodgerstowell5703 why are you such a hater. If you take care of a stock kit they can Last Way longer than a year as you stated. That’s the point of the hobby, you need to maintenance the. Often and work on them. If it weren’t for that you would just have a Boring motorized bike that worked every time.
Don't forget to use blue medium loctite
Wow! Brilliant stuff! (like/subscribe)
Who is sells skyhorse never heard of one is this gas bike or kings motors
Hey, thanks for watching, and your honest feedback on videos. I buy this engine in bulk from Alibaba. I have also seen them sold @ WISH and on eBay, but I can't attest to the solidness of those sellers. I truly like this engine because it has a little more torque out of the box and I have NEVER once had a threading, power, or gasket issue with this engine. It has an allan bolt set up as well as m8 studs (2019). You just can't put a high compression head on it. Happy building!
Is that 50cc? just asking
Hey Jake! Thanks for watching. No, that is a single jug 80cc (69cc). These are actually more reliable and have a good amount of performance to them. I really like these, personally
@@SouthernCustomCC cool mine is 80 aswell and im still doing the breaking in on the bike
Bike type please or name bike? :D
Why u never do a reed valve build??
Matthew Cotton : I do them when people ask for them. Not many people want to spend the money for the extra parts. Anything in particular that you want to see?
@@SouthernCustomCC Yes the performance difference in action
Bad advice. You're supposed to let the engine run hit for about 15 min idle. Then let it cool then tighten the bolts. Secondly take off them fenders before they kill you. Get some of the safe plastic ones. that sit above t hgt e tires. They cheap too.
I highly recommend studs instead of bolts.
Do u know why studs are better than bolts ? A lot of people don't....
@@user-kc2ru5xo4k For me personally it has stronger clamping pressure and helps prevent stripping bolt hole. Especially for something like your exhaust that puts a lot of weight and stressors on the bolts especially repeated taking on and off.
@@JamesPicconeclamping force is in fact identical between bolts and studs.... not so much with the lower torque setting of our 2 stroke heads, but with the higher clamping forces required in a head bolt application in a traditional car engine, when tightening down bolts, the bolt threads actually 'catch' inside the block hence causing the bolts to twist and inconsistencies, this is why oil is applied to head bolts when tightening down. This does not happen when using studs as the point of applied force is at the nut external to the block material...
@@user-kc2ru5xo4k cool , in my experience with motorized bicycles studs are more reliable and stronger.
this ensures a -SOILD- mount"
lmao!!!
a must do get a better mufffler and get a better gaskit stack one is junk thay blow use a 02 hylander o2 sensor gaskit it a for sure fix for ever.
No you don't want to do that never tighten anything until it's completely cooled off those bolts will break and strip out
i would never use bolts for intake and exhaust to begin.. loctite studs in for intake and exhaust and yu wont have to worry you strip them
I fully agree. All.my builds i have replaced the bolts with studs ( called grub screws from your hardware store).
I agree. I use m6 grubscrews as studs.
Im a mechanic and I would prefer studs over bolts whenever possible. The difference is where the torque is applied. There is more chance of stripping the threads inside the component when using bolts as the torque is applied on the threads inside the component whereas with studs, the torque is applied at the stud and nut, reducing the chance of damaging the body of the component, especially if it's made of aluminium...
Don't fix what's not broken.... that warranty means something
Is that a 49cc?
No, it's a newer 2018 model Skyhorse engine with a 47mm high hole piston. Yes, it is a single piece jug--which means you can't put a high compression head on it--but this engine is much more reliable and has better torque out of the box than the other PK and Zeda style engines.
@@SouthernCustomCC isint the jug head the smaller engine the 50cc?
If it's a 47mm piston then it's a 70cc. A 49cc has a 40mm piston
Im getting my kit and bike in a week! I'll be sure to keep this in mind, thanks!
Did you break your bolts ? Good chance you would've if you listened to this tool and tightened them whilst they're hot.
Nah, I didn't tighten them too hard while hot, just I tiny bit to keep it from vibrating loose@@user-kc2ru5xo4k
@@unknown.5982 yea, you never wanna tighten or do anything while it’s hot. Let it cool, then tighten.
@@stleo6069 yeah, doing worry i know lol
worm up your engine and tighten the bolts YES! oh no it broke
Does anyone know if the head and jug combination off the BT100 engine can be used on the electric start BT80 engine 🤔 Thank-you in advance 👍 any help much appreciated. Happy riding, and keep the bugs from your teeth 😁😁😁
The head and jug off the BT100 are not compatible with the 80cc counterparts because the bolt patterns are different. The bolts are further apart.
@@user-kc2ru5xo4k Thank-you very much for your help 😀
You can put a yd100 jug on a bt100 because same size piston and cylinder bolt pattern... 80cc are about a 3mm smaller piston and smaller bolt pattern !!!
@@jeremiahdssdentmorgan3341 Thank-you very much for your help and information, 👍😀 this is the type of information I was after... 😎👍
@@dawvidben-huir8101 you're welcome,,, I've been doing these kits for a few years now,,, much easier than adapting chainsaws to run bicycles back in the day !!! And I just try to share what I've learned over the years,,, glad you found my info useful...
Best way to kill all your treads
Pretty sure this is a 49cc
Thanks for watching. This is the Skyhorse 80cc (69cc) engine. The 50cc looks similar, but this has the 47mm piston. Happy building!
✅🆒
i cut all the fins off my engine
Why would u do that ? Fins gives you extra surface area and extra surface area gives you extra cooling. A good mod to aid cooling is to cut slots into the fins to add to the surface area.
@@user-kc2ru5xo4k well, i have 3 of these 2 stroke engines now, the black 80cc engine i cut andfiled down the fins to make the engine look smaller, but also i want the engine to glow red. its fun, adios.
@@alanssnack1192 ok whatever gets u thru the night.
@@user-kc2ru5xo4k Rike
First time explained basically what needs to be explained.
Explained with incorrect info.
@@user-kc2ru5xo4k deflicted chompers!
I have been building motorized vehicles for over two decades in Maine. this is junk
I'm genuinely curious what you would recommend?
This is a garbage bike. Its going to fall apart on you within a few months of use. Not to mention 2 cycle motors are the biggest polluters out their. Any good comments you see on here are incestuous.
Not as big a polluter as the shit you're spewing on these 2 stroke videos comments. Long live 2 strokes, 4 strokes, and ebikes.
You're incestuous
@@sergioavalos5288 here here sir.