I would say that with either the cheap or the expensive one, the most important thing is to know them well when you need to use them (as you need to know your camera better than any other one). If the cheap one is neither ND1000 nor ND 250 but ND 217, once you know it, you could really do precise calculation as well. As long as it the same density on the whole surface and the glass isn't blurring the shot, it is still pretty usable. And with actual camera, you could use the exposure metering to know it well enough. Same aperture and iso, expose well with and without and compare shutter speed to have actual ratio. Do it as lab test or in real situation (I tend to do the no filter shot anyway) and you could be quite sure of the kind of filter you have. At least, If you're not sure if this kind of photograph is what you want to take and just giving a try, better to have a 15£ unused filter than a 180£ unused filter. And for breaking issue, I would consider the cost of the risk instead of just saying "it's stronger". If it is less than 10 times more probable to break the cheaper one, the risk cost is still in favor of the cheaper one. The real pro for the nissi one, is not the filter but the filter system as a whole especially for graduated filters.
This is the most sensible review of nds that I have seen I use kf variable filters and all UA-camrs except for you are saying if you pay less than 100$ jyour filter is trash so yea thank you for this video
The problem for me ( apart from lack of cash to buy a B+W pro set ) is lack of room in my camera bag . Like all budget airline users , I'm limited to how much I can cram into my camera bag , before someone orders me to put it ( the bag /backpack) into the hold - so I bought a couple of cheap and cheerful ( ND ) filters ( 6 stop and 9 stop ) , plus a handful of step down rings ( 82 -77+ 82-67 mm) , so that I can use the same filters on either of my 3 lenses . As I only use the ND filters a handful of times a year , this for me is the best option
Great video, really good to see a proper comparison not just a "this is more expensive (out of a lot of peoples price range) so this is the only one to buy". I think we all understand you often get what you pay for, but it is a good way to start without a big cost to see if you like it. I know how you feel about "all the gear and no idea"
I agree,i use to have a cheap nd filter but i moved to the proper nisi filter and i walked away with some good long exposure and sunrise photos i have a nisi 10 stop 3 stop medium grad nd and a 3 stop nisi reverse grad nd for sunset and sunrise
Yes, just as it is advisable not to use the UV filter when taking photos, because it is best to have the least amount of glass / plastic in front of the sensor when taking the photo. Many modern sensors do not need a UV filter because it is already built in
I bought a cheap set of filters - they are 2 4 8 and 16 with all the rings and holders for about a tenner to try. Can I mix them up - say put a 2 with a 8 to obtain a ten stop, or any combination? And when would you use a 16 stop?
The 2/4/8/16 in description on cheap ones on ebay/amazon ect are not stops but the exposure time you get with that certain filter. ND2 Filter reduces the exposure by 1-stop; ND4 reduces the exposure by 2-stop; ND8 reduces the exposure by 3-stops; ND16 Filter reduces the exposure by 4-stops and so on…
Hi Marc, I have the Nisi screw on filters and love the results they give me , I am new to your UA-cam site and love the simple way you explain everything, I am now looking at the online courses to further develop my knowledge
Hi Brain , thank you, glad you enjoy our UA-cam. In this case I would recommend our membership service - click here for details www.theschoolofphotography.com/courses/membership Our members have instant access to all our high-quality online courses. This includes our Complete Guide to Photography, Long Exposure Photography, Guide to Studio Lighting, Portrait Retouching Course, Complete Guide to Lightroom, Photoshop Online courses and Fine Art Landscape Photography course. Plus, as a member, you’ll complete monthly assignments to challenge your skills and creativity. You then share the results with in our members only community. On top of this we add at least 2 new high-end pro courses every year. Hope this helps, any other questions, please let me know.
@@theschoolofphotography Hi Marc, thanks for your reply I have already checked it all out and shall be enrolling very soon and I watched one of your Q&A sessions last night , I love your approach 👍
When comparing price don’t forget about how the product ages. Unfortunately I don’t know of a shortcut to test this. Another factor is the environmental reaction, some filters will find dust in a clean room.
@@theschoolofphotography why is that?? I have a 10 stop circular filter which is threaded both sides. So it fits, is it just a focusing problem or something?
when I used the Cokin filter system , many moons ago , I had to watch out for vignetting when using a wide/ultra-wide lens , whereas (I'm guessing now ) , one doesn't have to worry about this problem when using the round ( cheap ) filters
Great video thank you! I have looked further into these and I have seen you can buy a CPL and an ND filter combined is that something you would recommend or would it be best to buy each separate?
with cheap and cheerful ND filters , you could always bracket (upwards / ie .more time ) the exposure in 50% increments . I agree wholeheartedly that trusting cheap to be cheerful is pushing things a bit , so on my ND filters , I always add a bit (of time ) to be sure - in other words, I guestimate the real exposure time based on experience and looking up Exif data from previous shoots ( that worked )
Over the last few years I also went over very cheap and very expensive filters and was also pleasantly surprised by a "Green.L" ND2000 filter. Paid 14 euros for it on 77mm. I have to say that most filters at this price range are not that good. Also de box is better than some Manfrotto professional or Hoya (but not as good as that of Polarpro or Canon).
F*CK. I was hoping to hear after all these years that I could use circular filters. Instead I'm back to using "Cokin" style as I call it. Truth hurts. Thanks for the informed expertise/opinion.
I would say that with either the cheap or the expensive one, the most important thing is to know them well when you need to use them (as you need to know your camera better than any other one).
If the cheap one is neither ND1000 nor ND 250 but ND 217, once you know it, you could really do precise calculation as well. As long as it the same density on the whole surface and the glass isn't blurring the shot, it is still pretty usable.
And with actual camera, you could use the exposure metering to know it well enough. Same aperture and iso, expose well with and without and compare shutter speed to have actual ratio. Do it as lab test or in real situation (I tend to do the no filter shot anyway) and you could be quite sure of the kind of filter you have.
At least, If you're not sure if this kind of photograph is what you want to take and just giving a try, better to have a 15£ unused filter than a 180£ unused filter.
And for breaking issue, I would consider the cost of the risk instead of just saying "it's stronger". If it is less than 10 times more probable to break the cheaper one, the risk cost is still in favor of the cheaper one.
The real pro for the nissi one, is not the filter but the filter system as a whole especially for graduated filters.
Enjoyed the fact that you can buy cheaply to experience long exposure photography before getting serious kit
At 2:00 it looks like your tripod is on giant wheels! Had a good laugh. Thanks for the helpful vid.
Thanks Sam 👍
This is the most sensible review of nds that I have seen I use kf variable filters and all UA-camrs except for you are saying if you pay less than 100$ jyour filter is trash so yea thank you for this video
You're welcome Adrian 👍
The problem for me ( apart from lack of cash to buy a B+W pro set ) is lack of room in my camera bag . Like all budget airline users , I'm limited to how much I can cram into my camera bag , before someone orders me to put it ( the bag /backpack) into the hold - so I bought a couple of cheap and cheerful ( ND ) filters ( 6 stop and 9 stop ) , plus a handful of step down rings ( 82 -77+ 82-67 mm) , so that I can use the same filters on either of my 3 lenses .
As I only use the ND filters a handful of times a year , this for me is the best option
Good point Dave 👍
Great video, really good to see a proper comparison not just a "this is more expensive (out of a lot of peoples price range) so this is the only one to buy". I think we all understand you often get what you pay for, but it is a good way to start without a big cost to see if you like it. I know how you feel about "all the gear and no idea"
Thanks Clive 😊
Thank you, sir. And ... Yes ... In the end, I prefer a picture with a cheap filter 😆
Great test. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
Great comparison video Marc.
Thanks! 👍
I agree,i use to have a cheap nd filter but i moved to the proper nisi filter and i walked away with some good long exposure and sunrise photos i have a nisi 10 stop 3 stop medium grad nd and a 3 stop nisi reverse grad nd for sunset and sunrise
Thanks for sharing Adam 👍
is it advisable to remove any UV filter on the lens before using the ND filter ?
Yes, just as it is advisable not to use the UV filter when taking photos, because it is best to have the least amount of glass / plastic in front of the sensor when taking the photo. Many modern sensors do not need a UV filter because it is already built in
Generally yes.
I bought a cheap set of filters - they are 2 4 8 and 16 with all the rings and holders for about a tenner to try. Can I mix them up - say put a 2 with a 8 to obtain a ten stop, or any combination? And when would you use a 16 stop?
In theory you can but not recommend. Thanks
The 2/4/8/16 in description on cheap ones on ebay/amazon ect are not stops but the exposure time you get with that certain filter.
ND2 Filter reduces the exposure by 1-stop; ND4 reduces the exposure by 2-stop; ND8 reduces the exposure by 3-stops; ND16 Filter reduces the exposure by 4-stops and so on…
Hi Marc, I have the Nisi screw on filters and love the results they give me , I am new to your UA-cam site and love the simple way you explain everything, I am now looking at the online courses to further develop my knowledge
Hi Brain , thank you, glad you enjoy our UA-cam.
In this case I would recommend our membership service - click here for details www.theschoolofphotography.com/courses/membership
Our members have instant access to all our high-quality online courses. This includes our Complete Guide to Photography, Long Exposure Photography, Guide to Studio Lighting, Portrait Retouching Course, Complete Guide to Lightroom, Photoshop Online courses and Fine Art Landscape Photography course.
Plus, as a member, you’ll complete monthly assignments to challenge your skills and creativity. You then share the results with in our members only community. On top of this we add at least 2 new high-end pro courses every year.
Hope this helps, any other questions, please let me know.
@@theschoolofphotography Hi Marc, thanks for your reply I have already checked it all out and shall be enrolling very soon and I watched one of your Q&A sessions last night , I love your approach 👍
When comparing price don’t forget about how the product ages. Unfortunately I don’t know of a shortcut to test this. Another factor is the environmental reaction, some filters will find dust in a clean room.
Can you not use the screw on filter under the holder system???
Hi Darren, no you can't I'm afraid.
@@theschoolofphotography why is that?? I have a 10 stop circular filter which is threaded both sides. So it fits, is it just a focusing problem or something?
when I used the Cokin filter system , many moons ago , I had to watch out for vignetting when using a wide/ultra-wide lens , whereas (I'm guessing now ) , one doesn't have to worry about this problem when using the round ( cheap ) filters
Some wide angle lenses will show vignetting.
For ultra wide angle I use a 'larger' filter system, with stepup rings for the filter holder, and thus avoid vignetting.
@@majamogens 👍
Great video thank you! I have looked further into these and I have seen you can buy a CPL and an ND filter combined is that something you would recommend or would it be best to buy each separate?
Not seen one like that Jay so couldn't comment I'm afraid.
Can you recommend a filter system for Micro 4/3?
Here you go Wayne, hope it helps www.theschoolofphotography.com/equipment/best-nd-filters
Thank you just seen this 🙈 I ended up buy the Lee 85 Deluxe kit I can’t wait to get out and have a go now, thanks again.
with cheap and cheerful ND filters , you could always bracket (upwards / ie .more time ) the exposure in 50% increments .
I agree wholeheartedly that trusting cheap to be cheerful is pushing things a bit , so on my ND filters , I always add a bit (of time ) to be sure - in other words, I guestimate the real exposure time based on experience and looking up Exif data from previous shoots ( that worked )
Each shot have different temp. Why not same?
Explained in the video.
The temp have been corrected on each to compensate for the color cast of each filter.
Over the last few years I also went over very cheap and very expensive filters and was also pleasantly surprised by a "Green.L" ND2000 filter. Paid 14 euros for it on 77mm. I have to say that most filters at this price range are not that good. Also de box is better than some Manfrotto professional or Hoya (but not as good as that of Polarpro or Canon).
Thanks for sharing 👍
Awesome video
Once I found an inexpensive 10 stop ND filter was actually 6 stops.
Thank Marc, That was my question for the next live Q&A.
No worries Jack!
I have polar pro filters .. after watching this I’m not sure I was wise .
That cheap filter didn't actually have a color cast. I'm fine with it not being exactly a 10 stop filter.
Did that cheep one have an nd number on it at all???
10 stop ND.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
F*CK. I was hoping to hear after all these years that I could use circular filters. Instead I'm back to using "Cokin" style as I call it. Truth hurts. Thanks for the informed expertise/opinion.