I just got this beer in the fermentor and I got about the same efficiency as you did which was quite a bit lower than what beer smith said it would be. Every time I brew a beer with a high percentage of flaked wheat or oats this happens and I would say this is why yours was low instead of the cold weather.
You make a great clear video step by step. The explanation in between you actually doing it at the time makes it very easy to follow. I would love to see more of the actual brewing though, it’s quite therapeutic haha. I’m just starting to get into pressure fermentation so zero air transfers are most definitely going to be my next step
I watch a lot of home brewing and brewing channels. You are the best at breaking down and teaching me things about subtle brewing terms and techniques I wouldn’t otherwise know or understand. Specifically for this one, hop burn. It just now clicked for me why one of my pale ales is “off”. It’s too many hops in a certain stage. Keep going! Stay safe!
Sounds good! Looks good! I think you nailed it. I just started using ascorbic acid in my last two batches. I've noticed a difference for sure. If you like what 2 row added I would check out great Western pale high color malt. They have "premium 2-row" and "pale high color" I have tried both and I love the high color malt.
You're right on - a premium pale would really do a lot of good for this beer! I just wanted to see how it would impact the beer style for a first try, but I would definitely do it again. Would be interesting to see what some British pale malts would do as well.
What difference do you expect from ascorbic acid? I just added some in combination to metabisulphite to try and improve the shelf life of a hoppy pale. My research suggested ascorbic acid on it's own removes free dissolved oxygen, but makes peroxide, which is a more reactive oxidizer. So you need the free sulphites to remove the peroxide, but they work great in combination. I also added citric acid hopping to make it more "juicy". I added too much so it was noticeably sharp/sour and had to balance it out with some isomaltulose.
I have made a similar receipe just not pressure fermented with cascade and mosaic hops. I have gotten creative with further dry hop infusion after it is in the keg by using a Randall on the out of the keg before the tap. After purging it first with Co2 of course. The results were incredible.
Sweet! Mosaic would definitely have been awesome in this beer but it's like $4/oz! I'm jealous of the Randall-thats an amazing thing, I bet it was awesome! Thanks for watching!
Another great video, thanks for posting! I started buying my hops around a year or so ago from Hopsdirect and Yakima Valley Hops and haven't looked back (still get all my grains/adjuncts from my local brew store). They're indiscernible in quality and freshness from the 1 ounce satchels I was getting but significantly cheaper. Definitely worth checking out if you're paying anywhere near the $3-5 an ounce mentioned in the description..
I love the Night Shift shirt! My Daughter lives in that neighborhood. They brew good beer! I'll have to have her get me one. Thanks for the vid, Cheers!
Hi! I like your videos. And even though I do not know the language (the translator will help me))) I am happy to follow the new products. I brewed the beer according to your recipe, but fermented on SAFALE S-33 yeast, they give a strong fruity flavor. But they do not reach the desired final density. To get it, I help the beer with SAFALE S-04 yeast. It seems to me that the problem is to find a middle ground. Between the maturity of the beer and the fading of the flavor.
Your thoughts on “no chill”/no dry hop with exact recipe to get close to your profile?? Still using 10G coolers and batch sparging with no good way to dry hop. I can’t wait to try 10G batch!!!
For a dry yeast pick I'd go with Safale S-04 or Voss kveik. I've had success with no chill methods before but dry hopping is pretty critical to this beer so I wouldn't skip that part.
Have an Azacca, Centennial and Cascade fermented with Voss Kveik Neipa on tap right now. Turned out good, slight pineapple and orange with enough bitterness to balance it, prefer some bitterness in mine...
Sounds awesome!! I agree, you want to have a balanced beer at the end of the day, not too sweet. I find you do tend to get a good level of bitterness from large whirlpool additions, but a small 30 or 15 minute addition would go fine in this beer style, even if its not the norm.
Nice video. It was interesting what you said about your previous NEIPAs losing perceived body. I just kegged a NEIPA that finished out at 1.01 and although lower than my target, it still has a good mouthfeel because of the 10% flaked oats and 10% white wheat. It will be interesting to see how that changes over time given your experience. I used GY054 for the fermentation, will have to play with some other strains in the future.
I think everyone has their own personal tastes. My first few NEIPAs were 1.012 and ended up trending a bit bitter for the style, but the extra residual sweetness on this was pretty well balanaced.
I'm new here but this was a phenomenal vid. I have been brewing for a few years now (and quite a new NEIPAs at that) but feel like I picked up a couple of awesome new tips here from someone who knows their shit. Really appreciate the effort man
@@TheApartmentBrewer Quick Q man, if you have a sec. I went and looked into ascorbic acid and SMB after this vid, is there any reason you favour one over the other, and have you ever run into the risk of ascorbic actually being oxidising (usually in the presence of metal ions which we prob shouldnt run into brewing beer but who knows). Cheers
So I don't actually use sodium metabisulfite in addition to the ascorbic acid. I'm not an expert on this at all, but the whole idea that ascorbic acid creates super oxidizers like peroxide comes from a study done on wine, not beer. Supposedly the grains in beer provide lots of free SO2 which prevents the superoxidizers from forming. Also, sometimes adding a metabisulfite at packaging can add sulfur aromas. Again, not based my experience or expertise, this all comes from people way smarter than I am.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Ok awesome, I hadnt actually gone as far as finding that study so that's really helpful, cheers! Just started a batch today with the ascorbic acid (as I was scared of the sulfur smells), so fingers crossed! Thanks!
I got mad yeasty notes on my last hazy, I gotta let it condition more next time, letting it sit can also help get rid of hop bite. Cryo hops are great for throwing in for full ferm, no grassy notes and you keep the aroma under pressure.
I had issues with IPAs when they first became popular. Massive heartburn. I'm going to have to give them a try again. The were so bitter and grassy per se. I'm hoping today's brews have balanced things out. I'll give this a try sometime.
Some of the old school west coast IPAs were pretty bitter! Sometimes I'll get some heartburn from certain beers too. Thanks for checking out the video!
With the healthy amount of adjuncts, did you have any concerns about a stuck mash? I notice you did not add any rice hulls. I use a 10 gallon mash tun/false bottom, not BIAB. Great video, thanks.
Thanks for watching! Since this system is essentially BIAB, I very very rarely get a stuck mash, even with 20-30% adjuncts. That being said, they definitely will increase your efficiency if you use them regardless. I would recommend always adding rice hulls when that gets over 50% or of brewing a wheat beer. I used them when I made my dunkelweizen with good results.
awesome dude! I've been wanting to brew a NEIPA for a while but price has been putting me off! Great to see that there are hops out there that we can create a cracking beer with that don't break the bank! Interested to know what you think the shelf life will be on this in a keg?
Hopefully a long time! I've yet to have a kegged NEIPA oxidize on me, it was just the bottled one that didn't last very long. I feel like this one will be long lasting since there was no second dry hop and it was a totally closed transfer to keg. Glad you enjoyed the video!
I watch all your video’s and get valuable information from them. I brewed my first all grain 3 weeks ago came out pretty darn good. 2 questions. Do you have your “flaked grains” milled? I see different opinions on that. Also, would you recommend the use of ascorbic acid in all brewing to prevent oxidation?
Thanks man! To answer your questions, no you don't need to mill any flaked grains. As far as the ascorbic acid, I've only ever used it in hop forward beers, I'm not sure whether it would be worth it for every brew.
@@TheApartmentBrewer ah OK. I have a Chinook Hazy recipe which I quite enjoy. Chinook is a fantastic hop for this type when used alone. it is tropical cheap and freshly available.
Great as always. Doing some last research before making my first hazy this weekend. Question- do you have a link to your brewfather account to browse your various recipes in one place? Just discovering how incredibly useful that app is.
Excellent video. What’s your latest opinion on massive flameout hopping since the grain basket “sort of worked”? Trying to figure out how to improve upon this for my brew day.
Its a tough call. If you just throw them in a hop spider or hop bag, you lose a lot of utilization and absorb a lot of wort. If you just throw them in the kettle straight, they can clog your bazooka screen if you have one, or they mess up your pump. At this point, I think I would probably just accept the wort losses and just use a large hop bag. Using the grain basket got great utilization, but there was just a green slush on the bottom that wouldn't let the wort through and it took like 20 minutes to transfer to my fermenter. Wouldn't 100% recommend.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Just found this, feel free to ignore my other comment! Isn't this what commercial breweries use the whirlpool for? Separating the solids from liquids before filling the fermenter? I've had success with no filter in the kettle, and using a hop spider to filter it as it goes into the fermenter. John Kimmich said you shouldn't pump beer with an impeller once hops are added because it "does something to the oils". I looked into it and found some suggestion that the high sheer forces can make a hypersaturated emulsion above the solubility limit of the hop oils in water. Also something about the sheer forces messing with the polyphenols or something, like breaking them up into other things maybe? John uses CO2 pressure to push the beer every step after hops are added. I tried adding lecithin as an emulsifier to create a stable emulsion with the hop oils for maximum flavour. It 100% worked way more than I anticipated. There is a problem though: you don't get to pick WHICH hop oils it emulsifies, and the high Alpha hops have the most flavour, so it emulsified the alpha acid and I ended up with the most bitter beer I've ever had by a country mile. WAY more bitter than Six Point Resin. If you could isolate the alpha acid from the flavour oils then it could be a useful technique.
Been watching a lot of your videos for the past year. Your beers look phenomenal and being a craft beer enthusiast I want to dip my toes in homebrewing. Any suggestions for equipment/beer style to start with?
I appreciate it! I would check out a starter kit from a site like morebeer.com, which should get you the equipment. For starter styles I would recommend amber/brown ales, pale ales or west coast IPAs, or a British beer.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Thanks for the reply! I'd like to get a setup that isn't crazy expensive but also isn't dirt cheap (I want my beer to be quality). I understand this is an investment and I'm not afraid to throw a little more money for something better that will last. I'll definitely check out morebeer, seems like a good place to start.
I would caution you not go all in unless know for absolute sure you want to do this sort of thing because of that initial investment. I would advise doing a couple starter kit type batches first before getting too deep. But of you really like it, then maybe check out some of the mid grade all in one grain systems like the anvil foundry or grainfather! Just don't fall into the trap that equipment makes the beer better. Practice and getting the fundamentals down is going to be a much bigger factor!
@@TheApartmentBrewer I can’t seem to make a mild without it tasting watery and thin (such low-gravity). it’s a problem for me for most session beers, especially ones that aren’t hoppy.
I like it a lot. I think its biggest strength over similar all in one systems is that it holds a lot of grain - I've put 18 lbs in. I have 120V system and the main cons are it is very sluggish to heat up and doesn't really make up many gravity points in the boil, however you could say the same thing about any 120V system.
This was one of the coldest brewdays I've used it during so I can't say if it made a big difference on this brew. That being said, obviously it's a big improvement over the bare metal though
Now that I’m doing 20Gal batches ( in 26 gal kettle using propane) recommendation for heating wort faster?? Your thoughts on adding portable element? ( to alternate between 15G kettle) Bigger burner? Reflectix jacket??
Hello. Great video. I am going to brew neipa also but I am wondering if I should do pressure fermentation from the start or after 3-4 days of fermentation. Do you think when I start with pressure fermentation from the start i would not get enough esters from the yeast ? I think when using ale yeast some esters are desirable anyway. If I want to get cleaner profile should I go for a us-05 or other clear profile yeast?
You can if you want to, but I've never really tried to do pressure fermentation for an ale. It does indeed make it lager clean and you're going to probably have a little lack of dimension in there if you cut out the ale yeast esters
@@TheApartmentBrewer Thank you very much for your reply. I really appreciate it. I think I am going to ferment under pressure after 3-4 days. On third day of the fermentation I would add some hops for aroma and then put 12 psi pressure.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Have you ever did. split batch and one part ferment under pressure and one ambient and then makes comparison of taste, esters etc. ?
Could you expand on "sort of worked" for the grain basket as a hop spider? I just did this on a Pliny the Elder clone and my boil off rate was WAY lower than expected. Ended up under target OG with too much volume by about four litres. I was thinking next time up the temperature and maybe blow a fan over the top to increase evaporation, or maybe collect less before the boil. I was happy with how the basket itself did.
So basically I had massive issues getting the wort to drain through the hop sludge at the bottom of the basket. While it certainly worked in getting the maximum hop utilization it made for a massive pain when it came time to transfer to the fermenter. I think I may use a large hop bag next time instead.
@@TheApartmentBrewer I've tried a brew in a bag, bag. It billowed up as the gases from boiling rose to the top. I tried a medium bag and let it float around tied off, but it was a pain to untie to add the next addition. I'm thinking there's a reason the pro's whirlpool?
@Leo Jackouski I think I'll be using a large hop bag next time. Having a legit whirlpool arm installed in the Kettle would be ideal of course but that won't happen for a while.
I brewed this with Citra, Sabro and Amarillo, 4oz each. Half in the whirlpool and half for dry hopping. Used Kveik Voss, which fermented to FG 1.017 in 3 days. OG was 1.069. I pressure fermented at 10psi after dry hopping, 24h in. Cold crashed, then did a close transfer to a purged keg. It's been carbonated 20h at 40psi and has been sitting chilled for 5 days now. My problem is that my beer is really bitter and leaves a long lingering bitterness on the tongue. What did I do wrong?
My first question would be what temperature did you do that whirlpool at and for how long? If its legitimate hop bitterness that may be why. However, its also possible this beer is just way too young and you're getting a lot of hop burn from a large dry hopping charge. If that's the case it will fade in a few weeks.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Sorry for the delayed reply, I was on holidays. I whirlpooled for 20 minutes at 180F. I'm happy to report, that the beer has lost a lot of bitterness over the course of 2 weeks. It has stabilized now, but there is still quite a bitterness that doesn't belong in a hazy. Overall it's quite drinkable though. Maybe adding the dry hop to the Kveik Voss yeast fermenting at 95F extracted some bitterness...
Its because its a full volume mash. In reality, you're taking an efficiency hit by not sparging, but it's worth the convenience factor to me in most cases. Plus I think brewhouse efficiency is kind of overrated on the homebrew scale.
Not super mainstream hops? Cascade and Summit are in just about everything, haha! At least they were a few years ago. Here in Washington state, almost everyone who has hops growing in their yard is growing Cascade.
Ha! I suppose you're correct, they are definitely mainstream, but not common in NEIPAs. I'm thinking of things like citra, mosaic, galaxy, azacca, you know
The way the clawhammer system works, the lid isn't closed during boiling but cracked which allows DMS to escape (i have yet to get DMS in any beer I've made on the system so far). I didn't happen to take any b-roll during the boil, so ended up mentioning the boil piece while showing a still from the mash
How does putting the citric in the mash/boil do anything. When you pitch you aerate to encourage colony growth, the yeast eat the O2 and when they run out they go into fermentation mode. Once fermented oxidation becomes an issue. So how is adding the citric so early on a factor after fermentation. Please someone explain this to me because all my problems exist after primary.
Acsorbic acid isn't citric acid. I don't think Citric acid does anything for oxygen protection. I'm also under the impression that Ascorbic acid turns free oxygen into peroxide that is a stronger oxidizer, so you need to use it in addition to metabisuplhite in order for that to remove the peroxide. I'd like to know this too, though! Why citric acid, and why in the mash/boil? Unless for pH adjustment, or because it adds that "juicy" characteristic, but then you could add it at any point between grain and glass...
So first of all, I don't claim to be an expert on this but I'll give my understanding and reasoning on it. A number of reactive oxygen species are formed in the mash and will persist through fermentation and make it into the final beer. The addition of ascorbic acid in the mash (not citric acid - thats a very different thing) cuts down on those ROS. To my knowledge adding a few grams doesn't scrub enough oxygen to negatively affect yeast reproduction. I've been following the advice of Genus Brewing and they advise putting it in the mash. Granted, conventional wisdom is to put it in in addition to some potassium or sodium metabisulfide with packaging. YMMV but I have yet to have any issues with doing it the way I did. I had a healthy fermentation that finished in 10 days so I really doubt it had any effects on the yeast.
@@TheApartmentBrewer I misspoke ascorbic is correct and sorry for the confusion. My limited understanding of the life cycle of yeast is this: Happy yeast, lots of nutes and O2 go into reproductive mode and make a bunch of daughters. (this is why we don't use an airlock on the yeast starter) We aerate our wort to introduce even more O2 so that the colony can grow further but we achieve fermentation only when the O2 runs out. Yeast need O2 to survive and as a survival strategy they have evolved this mechanism of stripping O2 from sugar molecules to produce ethanol molecules and CO2 which is why we airlock our fermentation vessel. It seems to me that any advantage gained by any O2 scrubbing would be gained when you transfer from primary to secondary and do your dry hopping (potentially introducing more O2). You don't want colony growth at that point you just want to continue fermentation. So my belief is that adding ascorbic in the wort is counter productive (because you are trying to build the colony at that point) , and adding it to secondary would be better advised (because this is where you really want to scrub O2) . But as you point out everyone puts it in the wort. This I don't really understand.
I'll admit I don't really fully understand the reason as well, and your logic is sound, but it still seems not to affect yeast health. I think a legitimate scientific study works be a great thing to have right now as it would help answer a lot of questions everyone has.
@@TheApartmentBrewer what’s your favorite NH brewery? Kettlehead and spyglass are my top ones. Also awesome videos! Very informative. Been thinking about doing my own grain to glass videos and pretty much have the same set up as you
That brew looks delicious. I have a homebrew series I call "Hop Therapy". I think I'm up to #4 in the series. Each brew featuring a different combo of hops, but essentially the same malt bill. I normally put a small write-up of my brews on my blog. If interested checkout: godsavethekeg.com
I just got this beer in the fermentor and I got about the same efficiency as you did which was quite a bit lower than what beer smith said it would be. Every time I brew a beer with a high percentage of flaked wheat or oats this happens and I would say this is why yours was low instead of the cold weather.
You deserve way more subscribers, really appreciate the videos and they massively help my development with brewing 🍻
I appreciate the kind words man! I'm glad I can help you out!
You make a great clear video step by step. The explanation in between you actually doing it at the time makes it very easy to follow. I would love to see more of the actual brewing though, it’s quite therapeutic haha. I’m just starting to get into pressure fermentation so zero air transfers are most definitely going to be my next step
Love the idea of creating a beer around a theme like mountains. Super creative!
Thanks Trent! Cheers!
well done. i'm really enjoying some south african hops these days. wife is from there, so I made a south african neipa that was amazing.
That sounds like an amazing idea! I'll have to try and remember to do something like that
South African New England Indian pale ale.. wow mixing of 3 counties
@@vellakoil_Kattuseval actually more than that lol. German grain, and Norwegian yeast! It’s a veritable melting pot in my brew kettle
@@brokentreebrewingco7034 great...have fun
I watch a lot of home brewing and brewing channels. You are the best at breaking down and teaching me things about subtle brewing terms and techniques I wouldn’t otherwise know or understand. Specifically for this one, hop burn. It just now clicked for me why one of my pale ales is “off”. It’s too many hops in a certain stage.
Keep going! Stay safe!
I'm glad you enjoyed it and got something out of it!
Sounds really good! I tend to go lower on the dry hops too as I don’t line the hop burn I get from higher amounts. Great video!
Yeah, I got it really bad with my last NEIPA, with 5 oz in the dry hop. 3 seems to be a good amount. Thanks for watching!
Sounds good! Looks good! I think you nailed it.
I just started using ascorbic acid in my last two batches. I've noticed a difference for sure. If you like what 2 row added I would check out great Western pale high color malt. They have "premium 2-row" and "pale high color" I have tried both and I love the high color malt.
You're right on - a premium pale would really do a lot of good for this beer! I just wanted to see how it would impact the beer style for a first try, but I would definitely do it again. Would be interesting to see what some British pale malts would do as well.
When is the latest stage to add asorbic acid???
@@tman9338 I've added it before with my dry hopping charge with good results
What difference do you expect from ascorbic acid? I just added some in combination to metabisulphite to try and improve the shelf life of a hoppy pale. My research suggested ascorbic acid on it's own removes free dissolved oxygen, but makes peroxide, which is a more reactive oxidizer. So you need the free sulphites to remove the peroxide, but they work great in combination.
I also added citric acid hopping to make it more "juicy". I added too much so it was noticeably sharp/sour and had to balance it out with some isomaltulose.
Love the Night Shift shirt. One of my go to spots--great beer and great taproom (in the before times)
im definitely going to try this. i love my hazy but a 5gal batch costs an arm and a leg to brew.
Another great video, massively appreciated. Thanks for the attention to details.
I have made a similar receipe just not pressure fermented with cascade and mosaic hops. I have gotten creative with further dry hop infusion after it is in the keg by using a Randall on the out of the keg before the tap. After purging it first with Co2 of course. The results were incredible.
Sweet! Mosaic would definitely have been awesome in this beer but it's like $4/oz! I'm jealous of the Randall-thats an amazing thing, I bet it was awesome! Thanks for watching!
@@TheApartmentBrewer details of a Randall?? Never heard of it??
@@tman9338 basically its an inline dry hopping system that runs beer through fresh hops as its served. It's awesome
I was deployed with 10th Mountain in Sadr City on COP Hope. :)
Another great video, thanks for posting! I started buying my hops around a year or so ago from Hopsdirect and Yakima Valley Hops and haven't looked back (still get all my grains/adjuncts from my local brew store). They're indiscernible in quality and freshness from the 1 ounce satchels I was getting but significantly cheaper. Definitely worth checking out if you're paying anywhere near the $3-5 an ounce mentioned in the description..
Buying in bulk is always going to be cheaper for sure.
👍🏻👍🏻🍺 Dude it looks absolutely amazing!!!!!! Cheers
Thanks Tom! Cheers!
I love the Night Shift shirt! My Daughter lives in that neighborhood. They brew good beer! I'll have to have her get me one. Thanks for the vid, Cheers!
Night shift is awesome. They have a great homebrewer to pro brewer story. You can get them from their website I think!
Cheers Steve......I love CTZ.... used it in my first ever neipa and need to return to it
It's such a great hop, cheers Jesse!
Nice job. Another great video and recipe!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
Hi! I like your videos. And even though I do not know the language (the translator will help me))) I am happy to follow the new products. I brewed the beer according to your recipe, but fermented on SAFALE S-33 yeast, they give a strong fruity flavor. But they do not reach the desired final density. To get it, I help the beer with SAFALE S-04 yeast. It seems to me that the problem is to find a middle ground. Between the maturity of the beer and the fading of the flavor.
Glad I can help! Safale S04 is actually a decent yeast for hazy IPAs
Super stoked to finally see a NEIPA IPA on a budget!!! (I only do 10 and 20G batches). Great color with the gran mix. Recommended dry yeast ???
Your thoughts on “no chill”/no dry hop with exact recipe to get close to your profile?? Still using 10G coolers and batch sparging with no good way to dry hop. I can’t wait to try 10G batch!!!
Forgot to ask for link to magnets you have used for dry hop in bucket ?? This might be best option for my cheap setup.
For a dry yeast pick I'd go with Safale S-04 or Voss kveik. I've had success with no chill methods before but dry hopping is pretty critical to this beer so I wouldn't skip that part.
Here's a link to what I use: www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYU3SX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_BM5BETK72X8RTSG7Q37G
@@TheApartmentBrewer Thanks! Just freed up a Corney so I’m gonna do a 5G batch just to replicate you NEIPA!!
Hey, great video. First time viewer hitting the subscribe button.
Awesome, I'm glad you enjoyed the video and welcome to the channel!
Have an Azacca, Centennial and Cascade fermented with Voss Kveik Neipa on tap right now. Turned out good, slight pineapple and orange with enough bitterness to balance it, prefer some bitterness in mine...
Sounds awesome!! I agree, you want to have a balanced beer at the end of the day, not too sweet. I find you do tend to get a good level of bitterness from large whirlpool additions, but a small 30 or 15 minute addition would go fine in this beer style, even if its not the norm.
Cascade is,for the price,a damn good hop.
100% true. Exceptionally versatile and one of my favorites
Nice video. It was interesting what you said about your previous NEIPAs losing perceived body. I just kegged a NEIPA that finished out at 1.01 and although lower than my target, it still has a good mouthfeel because of the 10% flaked oats and 10% white wheat. It will be interesting to see how that changes over time given your experience. I used GY054 for the fermentation, will have to play with some other strains in the future.
I think everyone has their own personal tastes. My first few NEIPAs were 1.012 and ended up trending a bit bitter for the style, but the extra residual sweetness on this was pretty well balanaced.
You're getting pretty damn good at this brewing thing. Definitely going to use this recipe
Thanks for watching and hope you enjoy the beer!
I'm new here but this was a phenomenal vid. I have been brewing for a few years now (and quite a new NEIPAs at that) but feel like I picked up a couple of awesome new tips here from someone who knows their shit. Really appreciate the effort man
Thank you so much, man! I'm glad you enjoyed the video, I certainly had a lot of fun making it!
@@TheApartmentBrewer Quick Q man, if you have a sec. I went and looked into ascorbic acid and SMB after this vid, is there any reason you favour one over the other, and have you ever run into the risk of ascorbic actually being oxidising (usually in the presence of metal ions which we prob shouldnt run into brewing beer but who knows). Cheers
So I don't actually use sodium metabisulfite in addition to the ascorbic acid. I'm not an expert on this at all, but the whole idea that ascorbic acid creates super oxidizers like peroxide comes from a study done on wine, not beer. Supposedly the grains in beer provide lots of free SO2 which prevents the superoxidizers from forming. Also, sometimes adding a metabisulfite at packaging can add sulfur aromas. Again, not based my experience or expertise, this all comes from people way smarter than I am.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Ok awesome, I hadnt actually gone as far as finding that study so that's really helpful, cheers! Just started a batch today with the ascorbic acid (as I was scared of the sulfur smells), so fingers crossed! Thanks!
No problem!
Well done on your brewing your best NEIPA. This video made me want to jump out of bed and brew it. Cheers
Soft crash to 50-55F before post fermentation dry hop to avoid hop burn. Works like a chizarm!
Awesome tip!
Great video! 👍
Thank you!
Awesome video mate. Love your content, cheers from ‘Straya.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I got mad yeasty notes on my last hazy, I gotta let it condition more next time, letting it sit can also help get rid of hop bite. Cryo hops are great for throwing in for full ferm, no grassy notes and you keep the aroma under pressure.
But expensive so I guess it kinda defeats the purpose lol
True, cryo is the way to go to avoid the grassy part!
Nice job
I had issues with IPAs when they first became popular. Massive heartburn. I'm going to have to give them a try again. The were so bitter and grassy per se. I'm hoping today's brews have balanced things out. I'll give this a try sometime.
Some of the old school west coast IPAs were pretty bitter! Sometimes I'll get some heartburn from certain beers too. Thanks for checking out the video!
@@TheApartmentBrewer nothing a scoop of good vanilla ice cream won’t fix.
keep checking with yakima valley hops. i bought a pound of citra and el dorado for 16 bucks each.
Buying in bulk is for sure the most affordable way to do that
Awesome video - you need to straighten up your picture frame at 15:56 - that or your camera is tilted 😂
Haha, yeah it looks a bit off I suppose
With the healthy amount of adjuncts, did you have any concerns about a stuck mash? I notice you did not add any rice hulls. I use a 10 gallon mash tun/false bottom, not BIAB. Great video, thanks.
Thanks for watching! Since this system is essentially BIAB, I very very rarely get a stuck mash, even with 20-30% adjuncts. That being said, they definitely will increase your efficiency if you use them regardless. I would recommend always adding rice hulls when that gets over 50% or of brewing a wheat beer. I used them when I made my dunkelweizen with good results.
awesome dude! I've been wanting to brew a NEIPA for a while but price has been putting me off! Great to see that there are hops out there that we can create a cracking beer with that don't break the bank! Interested to know what you think the shelf life will be on this in a keg?
Hopefully a long time! I've yet to have a kegged NEIPA oxidize on me, it was just the bottled one that didn't last very long. I feel like this one will be long lasting since there was no second dry hop and it was a totally closed transfer to keg. Glad you enjoyed the video!
I watch all your video’s and get valuable information from them. I brewed my first all grain 3 weeks ago came out pretty darn good. 2 questions. Do you have your “flaked grains” milled? I see different opinions on that. Also, would you recommend the use of ascorbic acid in all brewing to prevent oxidation?
Thanks man! To answer your questions, no you don't need to mill any flaked grains. As far as the ascorbic acid, I've only ever used it in hop forward beers, I'm not sure whether it would be worth it for every brew.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Thank you!
@@Bullsbrew551 anytime!
The info is great, but I find the text difficult to read. Maybe it needs a backdrop or something.
Thanks for the feedback, I'll try to add that in for the future!
When you cold crash proteins stick to the bottom on top of the yeast. If you want a fuller body just keep it at serving temperature. Cheers!
So while I said I cold crashed it it really wasn't a true cold crash at 33 degrees. My keezer sits around 42
@@TheApartmentBrewer ah OK. I have a Chinook Hazy recipe which I quite enjoy. Chinook is a fantastic hop for this type when used alone. it is tropical cheap and freshly available.
@@gokcenami5075 definitely a good one! A lot of the old school hops actually work really well in hazies
Great as always. Doing some last research before making my first hazy this weekend. Question- do you have a link to your brewfather account to browse your various recipes in one place? Just discovering how incredibly useful that app is.
I don't have a brewfather account, sorry. I use beersmith to build my recipes usually. Glad you enjoyed the video!
@@TheApartmentBrewer Oops, must've misheard. Thanks!
CLIMB TO GLORY!!!
I like to use ctz hop extract in my neipas
Thats a great move. I'm gonna probably start messing with either a hop extract or some cryo soon
Excellent video. What’s your latest opinion on massive flameout hopping since the grain basket “sort of worked”? Trying to figure out how to improve upon this for my brew day.
Its a tough call. If you just throw them in a hop spider or hop bag, you lose a lot of utilization and absorb a lot of wort. If you just throw them in the kettle straight, they can clog your bazooka screen if you have one, or they mess up your pump. At this point, I think I would probably just accept the wort losses and just use a large hop bag. Using the grain basket got great utilization, but there was just a green slush on the bottom that wouldn't let the wort through and it took like 20 minutes to transfer to my fermenter. Wouldn't 100% recommend.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Just found this, feel free to ignore my other comment! Isn't this what commercial breweries use the whirlpool for? Separating the solids from liquids before filling the fermenter? I've had success with no filter in the kettle, and using a hop spider to filter it as it goes into the fermenter.
John Kimmich said you shouldn't pump beer with an impeller once hops are added because it "does something to the oils". I looked into it and found some suggestion that the high sheer forces can make a hypersaturated emulsion above the solubility limit of the hop oils in water. Also something about the sheer forces messing with the polyphenols or something, like breaking them up into other things maybe? John uses CO2 pressure to push the beer every step after hops are added.
I tried adding lecithin as an emulsifier to create a stable emulsion with the hop oils for maximum flavour. It 100% worked way more than I anticipated. There is a problem though: you don't get to pick WHICH hop oils it emulsifies, and the high Alpha hops have the most flavour, so it emulsified the alpha acid and I ended up with the most bitter beer I've ever had by a country mile. WAY more bitter than Six Point Resin. If you could isolate the alpha acid from the flavour oils then it could be a useful technique.
Been watching a lot of your videos for the past year. Your beers look phenomenal and being a craft beer enthusiast I want to dip my toes in homebrewing. Any suggestions for equipment/beer style to start with?
I appreciate it! I would check out a starter kit from a site like morebeer.com, which should get you the equipment. For starter styles I would recommend amber/brown ales, pale ales or west coast IPAs, or a British beer.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Thanks for the reply! I'd like to get a setup that isn't crazy expensive but also isn't dirt cheap (I want my beer to be quality). I understand this is an investment and I'm not afraid to throw a little more money for something better that will last. I'll definitely check out morebeer, seems like a good place to start.
I would caution you not go all in unless know for absolute sure you want to do this sort of thing because of that initial investment. I would advise doing a couple starter kit type batches first before getting too deep. But of you really like it, then maybe check out some of the mid grade all in one grain systems like the anvil foundry or grainfather! Just don't fall into the trap that equipment makes the beer better. Practice and getting the fundamentals down is going to be a much bigger factor!
You should not dip your toes in. Sanitation is paramount.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Gotcha. Thanks for the advice man
I brewed a Kevik pale ale and it tastes good but has a corn flavour to it. Anyone know why and how to avoid this.
My LHBS stopped carrying summit because it was a slow seller... Any suggestions on a substitute for dry hop? They recommended Simcoe ?
Go with Columbus. It is a juice bomb in the whirlpool and is still very cheap
I do notice that you use way less hops here than you did in your basic equipment video. A pressure fermentor helps keep the hoppy goodness in?
Sometimes, but I also was doing a single dry hop and trying to actually keep the overall dry hop amount lower. It worked out pretty well!
If anyone can solve the mystery of the Mild, it’s you. Try it out sometime.
Milds are on my list! What's the mystery?
@@TheApartmentBrewer I can’t seem to make a mild without it tasting watery and thin (such low-gravity). it’s a problem for me for most session beers, especially ones that aren’t hoppy.
I'll give it a shot! I understand that can be a bit difficult with a 3% beer for sure
Great video!!! Sounds delicious, I want to try.... thanks!!!
Do you boil with the lid on? Or did the footage not match the voiceover
No, the lid is cracked open to allow volatiles to escape, but I didn't get good footage of this part so ots actually a still image
Nice video! How do you like the Clawhammer BIAB brew system? Was thinking of getting one myself. And did you get the 120v or the 240v?
I like it a lot. I think its biggest strength over similar all in one systems is that it holds a lot of grain - I've put 18 lbs in. I have 120V system and the main cons are it is very sluggish to heat up and doesn't really make up many gravity points in the boil, however you could say the same thing about any 120V system.
What pressure do you serve at!? That was rushing out!
How did the new jacket work for the clawhammer?
This was one of the coldest brewdays I've used it during so I can't say if it made a big difference on this brew. That being said, obviously it's a big improvement over the bare metal though
Now that I’m doing 20Gal batches ( in 26 gal kettle using propane) recommendation for heating wort faster?? Your thoughts on adding portable element? ( to alternate between 15G kettle) Bigger burner? Reflectix jacket??
All of those would help speed up the process, but a bigger propane burner is probably going to have the most impact
I miss Fort Drum.
Hello. Great video. I am going to brew neipa also but I am wondering if I should do pressure fermentation from the start or after 3-4 days of fermentation. Do you think when I start with pressure fermentation from the start i would not get enough esters from the yeast ? I think when using ale yeast some esters are desirable anyway. If I want to get cleaner profile should I go for a us-05 or other clear profile yeast?
You can if you want to, but I've never really tried to do pressure fermentation for an ale. It does indeed make it lager clean and you're going to probably have a little lack of dimension in there if you cut out the ale yeast esters
@@TheApartmentBrewer Thank you very much for your reply. I really appreciate it. I think I am going to ferment under pressure after 3-4 days. On third day of the fermentation I would add some hops for aroma and then put 12 psi pressure.
@@Nagellan anytime! That's pretty much what I did and it works out pretty well!
@@TheApartmentBrewer Have you ever did. split batch and one part ferment under pressure and one ambient and then makes comparison of taste, esters etc. ?
Sadly no, split batches are a bit tough to do right now with my current fermentation and kegging setup
Great video. Why 90 minute boil opposed to 60 minute?
This was a 60 minute boil, did you mean the mash? If that's the case its just some insurance on conversion
@@TheApartmentBrewer Yes, I meant the mash. Thanks.
Could you expand on "sort of worked" for the grain basket as a hop spider? I just did this on a Pliny the Elder clone and my boil off rate was WAY lower than expected. Ended up under target OG with too much volume by about four litres. I was thinking next time up the temperature and maybe blow a fan over the top to increase evaporation, or maybe collect less before the boil. I was happy with how the basket itself did.
So basically I had massive issues getting the wort to drain through the hop sludge at the bottom of the basket. While it certainly worked in getting the maximum hop utilization it made for a massive pain when it came time to transfer to the fermenter. I think I may use a large hop bag next time instead.
@@TheApartmentBrewer I've tried a brew in a bag, bag. It billowed up as the gases from boiling rose to the top. I tried a medium bag and let it float around tied off, but it was a pain to untie to add the next addition. I'm thinking there's a reason the pro's whirlpool?
@Leo Jackouski I think I'll be using a large hop bag next time. Having a legit whirlpool arm installed in the Kettle would be ideal of course but that won't happen for a while.
@@TheApartmentBrewer interested to see how it goes, let us know! 👍
What makes them more susceptible to oxidation?
The Flaked grains introduce oxidizing metals like Mg into to the mash, and then the dry hopping steps add a ton of oxidation potential as well
I brewed this with Citra, Sabro and Amarillo, 4oz each. Half in the whirlpool and half for dry hopping. Used Kveik Voss, which fermented to FG 1.017 in 3 days. OG was 1.069.
I pressure fermented at 10psi after dry hopping, 24h in. Cold crashed, then did a close transfer to a purged keg. It's been carbonated 20h at 40psi and has been sitting chilled for 5 days now.
My problem is that my beer is really bitter and leaves a long lingering bitterness on the tongue. What did I do wrong?
My first question would be what temperature did you do that whirlpool at and for how long? If its legitimate hop bitterness that may be why. However, its also possible this beer is just way too young and you're getting a lot of hop burn from a large dry hopping charge. If that's the case it will fade in a few weeks.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Sorry for the delayed reply, I was on holidays. I whirlpooled for 20 minutes at 180F. I'm happy to report, that the beer has lost a lot of bitterness over the course of 2 weeks. It has stabilized now, but there is still quite a bitterness that doesn't belong in a hazy. Overall it's quite drinkable though. Maybe adding the dry hop to the Kveik Voss yeast fermenting at 95F extracted some bitterness...
Going to brew this - is your recipe BIAB based since you use a clawhammer?
Yup!
What's the intended batch size?
5 gallons
Do you treat your entire water volume with the salts (Chloride, Gypsum, Epsom) before the mash?
Yup, that's how I do it. I weigh them out and add them to strike water once it gets warm. They dissolve a bit easier when it's warm.
Can you explain why you don't have to sparge with this system?
Its because its a full volume mash. In reality, you're taking an efficiency hit by not sparging, but it's worth the convenience factor to me in most cases. Plus I think brewhouse efficiency is kind of overrated on the homebrew scale.
Not super mainstream hops? Cascade and Summit are in just about everything, haha! At least they were a few years ago. Here in Washington state, almost everyone who has hops growing in their yard is growing Cascade.
Ha! I suppose you're correct, they are definitely mainstream, but not common in NEIPAs. I'm thinking of things like citra, mosaic, galaxy, azacca, you know
Looked like you boiled with the lid on ? That would explain your lower OG, and also risk not having DMS boiled off.
The way the clawhammer system works, the lid isn't closed during boiling but cracked which allows DMS to escape (i have yet to get DMS in any beer I've made on the system so far). I didn't happen to take any b-roll during the boil, so ended up mentioning the boil piece while showing a still from the mash
What did you input into BeerSmith for the equipment profile?
Clawhammer has downloadable equipment profiles for their systems on their website, that's where I got it
How does putting the citric in the mash/boil do anything. When you pitch you aerate to encourage colony growth, the yeast eat the O2 and when they run out they go into fermentation mode. Once fermented oxidation becomes an issue. So how is adding the citric so early on a factor after fermentation.
Please someone explain this to me because all my problems exist after primary.
Acsorbic acid isn't citric acid. I don't think Citric acid does anything for oxygen protection. I'm also under the impression that Ascorbic acid turns free oxygen into peroxide that is a stronger oxidizer, so you need to use it in addition to metabisuplhite in order for that to remove the peroxide.
I'd like to know this too, though! Why citric acid, and why in the mash/boil? Unless for pH adjustment, or because it adds that "juicy" characteristic, but then you could add it at any point between grain and glass...
So first of all, I don't claim to be an expert on this but I'll give my understanding and reasoning on it. A number of reactive oxygen species are formed in the mash and will persist through fermentation and make it into the final beer. The addition of ascorbic acid in the mash (not citric acid - thats a very different thing) cuts down on those ROS. To my knowledge adding a few grams doesn't scrub enough oxygen to negatively affect yeast reproduction. I've been following the advice of Genus Brewing and they advise putting it in the mash. Granted, conventional wisdom is to put it in in addition to some potassium or sodium metabisulfide with packaging. YMMV but I have yet to have any issues with doing it the way I did. I had a healthy fermentation that finished in 10 days so I really doubt it had any effects on the yeast.
@@TheApartmentBrewer I misspoke ascorbic is correct and sorry for the confusion.
My limited understanding of the life cycle of yeast is this: Happy yeast, lots of nutes and O2 go into reproductive mode and make a bunch of daughters. (this is why we don't use an airlock on the yeast starter) We aerate our wort to introduce even more O2 so that the colony can grow further but we achieve fermentation only when the O2 runs out. Yeast need O2 to survive and as a survival strategy they have evolved this mechanism of stripping O2 from sugar molecules to produce ethanol molecules and CO2 which is why we airlock our fermentation vessel.
It seems to me that any advantage gained by any O2 scrubbing would be gained when you transfer from primary to secondary and do your dry hopping (potentially introducing more O2). You don't want colony growth at that point you just want to continue fermentation. So my belief is that adding ascorbic in the wort is counter productive (because you are trying to build the colony at that point) , and adding it to secondary would be better advised (because this is where you really want to scrub O2) . But as you point out everyone puts it in the wort. This I don't really understand.
I'll admit I don't really fully understand the reason as well, and your logic is sound, but it still seems not to affect yeast health. I think a legitimate scientific study works be a great thing to have right now as it would help answer a lot of questions everyone has.
Great vid. Where are you from?
Thanks! Currently New Hampshire, USA
@@TheApartmentBrewer what’s your favorite NH brewery? Kettlehead and spyglass are my top ones. Also awesome videos! Very informative. Been thinking about doing my own grain to glass videos and pretty much have the same set up as you
@@mousetrapbrewing9566 I'm literally 5 minutes from spyglass. Glad you're enjoying the videos!
That brew looks delicious. I have a homebrew series I call "Hop Therapy". I think I'm up to #4 in the series. Each brew featuring a different combo of hops, but essentially the same malt bill. I normally put a small write-up of my brews on my blog. If interested checkout: godsavethekeg.com
That's a great idea, I'll check out your site! I love the name too haha
too much sophistication... not something that leser mortals like me can afford to do