Loving the videos guys! As an individual who too hopes to open a brewery someday, I am really happy that there is a brewery documenting their progress and specifying the subtle differences between brewing at home and brewing on a larger scale. Keep up the good work guys! I look forward to future episodes!
We're around 150 PPM for calcium, chloride, and sulfate for most of our hazy-hoppy beers. The rest of the minerals are pretty low. We have enough carbonate that we add phosphoric acid to hit our target pH.
Look forward to following you guys on the journey. How can you get around the contact time if it just takes that long (75mins)? Also gonna look out for the IPA book here in the UK!
An inline hop-back is the classic solution for shorter hot-side exposure for hops. I haven't found them to be especially efficient for aroma impact on either the home or commercial scale though. I actually like the character of whirlpool hops as a component of IPAs, even at home I was doing hop-stands of 30-40 minutes to increase kettle hop character. While it does chase off the delicate aromatics, these are what dry hopping imparts.
Thanks for the great video, please keep them coming. If you're listening on stereo headphones, Mike's voice only comes thru on the L channel, while Scott comes thru on both channels. Makes it hard to listen to. Might be due to mic location during recording.
Hmmm, not sure why Scott was leaking over onto my channel. We were both on lavalier mics. I didn't mess with them, but probably should have just converted both to mono.
Hello, ive been home brewing this style and the PH has been throwing me off. Ive seen that Tree House's Julius finishes with a PH of around 4.5 however with the amount of hops that go into this style (4+ pounds) drives up my PH to close to 4.8 in the finished beer. I target a mash PH of 5 to help drive down the final PH but is still isn't down to the 4.5 range. Do you guys have any insight into this?
@@sapwoodcellars8378 thanks! Had the pleasure of meeting Scott this past Saturday at Whitey's. You guys are doing great stuff (including these videos). Congratulations!
It should be the same percentages. We get a bit more color from the direct fire at the this scale, so your beer may end up an SRM lighter, but nothing I'd work to change! The hop scaling is a bit more complex given our longer/hotter whirlpool than most homebrewers.
I find a lot of NEIPAs to be under-bittered. I think there should still be a balancing amount of iso-alpha to offset the sweetness of the higher FG. We do lower the whirlpool temp for some lower gravity beers, but still usually 185-195F. The only time I go below 180F is for hoppy sours post-Lacto.
Can not approve of your fermentation in particular if you do not have any filtation after maturation, which is max 4 days long?! thats ridiculous. Than you cool your beer ve hearted at the end of your fermentation which prevents the yeast to dismantle diacetyl in a good rate, which means further you need an even longer time to mature your beer. And you keep it cold at 35°F for 4 days? Why so cold? And how should it help wiht your dry hopping. What do you mean a centrifuge speeds up the time a beer peaks, I dont think you want a centrifuge it destroys more then you gain. Then you talk again and again about your hops, but the body of a beer is the malt and I understood 10% wheat malt and then awkward stuff. Im worried if your beer has the body to cope with that amount of hops. To be clear it may sound a bit harsh but I wanna help cause I think there more people brewing the more people know how awesome beer is and how overrated wine is ;).
With this batch the first dry hop addition was made while fermentation was still active. That provides yeast that scavenge (the hopefully minimal) amount of oxygen introduced during dry hopping. Since this video we have added a pressurized hop doser to further reduce DO pick-up. Key especially post-fermentation. The beer is allowed to warm to 71F toward the end of fermentation. This allows the yeast to complete fermentation and convert diacetyl. So far we haven't had any issues with 6-8 days before cooling. We monitor flavor and FG before crashing. Nearly all craft breweries cold crash their beer post-fermentation. 35F is actually warmer than most, 31-32F is typical. Cold accelerates floculation and sedimentation. This allows us to get beer that is free of particulate without the need for filtration, which can strip hop aromatics and is a risk for DO pick-up. A centrifuge is essentially artificial gravity. It allows this sedimentation to happen quickly, dropping out yeast and hop particulate without the need for extended cold conditioning. Many of the larger breweries that specialize in hazy IPAs use them to fantastic effect! The key is a light hand, controlling the speed and flow avoid stripping everything out. The perception of mouthfeel is complex stuff. Water chemistry, yeast, malt, and hops all play a role in the texture of a beer. Rings of Light is probably the beer I'm most proud of because of the luscious body even under 5% ABV, Hope that helps to provide some clarity!
@@sapwoodcellars8378 ty for your answers, but if I look at the beer you drink and the haze I ve to say, that there is still active yeast in and that cold crashing is a good thing but if you dont let it mature in the tank for 2-3 weeks under min. 0.8-1,2 bar your haze and so your flavor will be flawed. Cooling doesnt prevent filtration, but if you decide to ve a hazy beer like IPA you need some time. Which brings me to the question how do you carbonate your beer? And if you are so in panic of oxygen, why you dont add some vitamin C during dry hoping? Centrifuge seems like a good idea but I dont like it. First, temperature exposure. Second, shear forces on proteins and dextrins. Third, CO2 has to be added afterwards. Perception is complex....rly xD. I brew beer now for 15 years and doing my master in brewery technology atm and I wish I could taste your beer because I really like what and how you brew I can see the love and dedication. Keep it. Would love to see a beer with bourbon smoked wood chips, think would hit your style!
@@sapwoodcellars8378 now I understand much more! you mature it in your kegs...well ever experienced autolyse (~selfdestruction of yeast cells)? And hop creep must be a pain cause every keg could be different. A centrifuge does make sense for you...so expensive :(. If you mean the long riping process in a tank not keg with "best german practices" you are probably right it doesnt fit your style but it would maybe help with some problems. but I am super happy with your barrels, tasted a wheat beer out of a sherry barrel in belgium, amazing! Good luck!
Never had any issues with autolysis. Most of our kegs are stored cold, which greatly reduces the chances of a significant amount of cells dying over the month from kegging to the beer running out. English yeast tends to be more flocculant than German strains, so most of it is left behind in the fermentor. The bulk drops out in just 24 hours.
Fart beer. Wine doesn't make you fart, it is better tasting, is easier to make (although it takes nine months vs nine days to make), is better for you, is less fattening, gives you a better buzz, and is less expensive to make (i.e. if you have access to fresh fruit). Don't get me wrong, I like beer but I like wine better.
Loving the videos guys! As an individual who too hopes to open a brewery someday, I am really happy that there is a brewery documenting their progress and specifying the subtle differences between brewing at home and brewing on a larger scale. Keep up the good work guys! I look forward to future episodes!
Cheers! Can't promise we'll have frequent episodes, but already banking footage for the sour beer program!
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. I'm really looking forward to the book!
I ended up buying your book and it was very informational! I'm excited to start aging hops as well.
listened to you guys on GBH, glad to see it is all going great. enjoying the videos.
Thank you for sharing your experience! Especially the comparison Homebrewer vs Big(ger) Brewer is great. Example: Heat difference, Maillard, etc.
Still learning ourselves! Always great to pass along what we learn as so many others have done for our benefit!
This was fun to watch. Thanks guys!
Cheers, thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and techniques. Great video, can not wait to come down from Northeast Pa and visit your brewery.
Excellent video. Thank you!
That background music sounds like someone forgot to turn off their mellow alarm clock. 😂
Loved the video lads. Hope you gave the "FedEx guy" a beer!
Pretty much all the delivery drivers who have been dropping things off the last year were excited when we finally opened!
That was fantastic thanks gents cheers
Great video Gents, very informative .. I was wondering what numbers you guys are looking at with your water profile for this style /recipe ?
Thanks
We're around 150 PPM for calcium, chloride, and sulfate for most of our hazy-hoppy beers. The rest of the minerals are pretty low. We have enough carbonate that we add phosphoric acid to hit our target pH.
Look forward to following you guys on the journey. How can you get around the contact time if it just takes that long (75mins)? Also gonna look out for the IPA book here in the UK!
An inline hop-back is the classic solution for shorter hot-side exposure for hops. I haven't found them to be especially efficient for aroma impact on either the home or commercial scale though. I actually like the character of whirlpool hops as a component of IPAs, even at home I was doing hop-stands of 30-40 minutes to increase kettle hop character. While it does chase off the delicate aromatics, these are what dry hopping imparts.
So your fermentation finishes out ok even after dropping your temp to 58 degrees after the dry hop at 4 days?
Thanks for the great video, please keep them coming.
If you're listening on stereo headphones, Mike's voice only comes thru on the L channel, while Scott comes thru on both channels. Makes it hard to listen to. Might be due to mic location during recording.
Hmmm, not sure why Scott was leaking over onto my channel. We were both on lavalier mics. I didn't mess with them, but probably should have just converted both to mono.
Hello, ive been home brewing this style and the PH has been throwing me off. Ive seen that Tree House's Julius finishes with a PH of around 4.5 however with the amount of hops that go into this style (4+ pounds) drives up my PH to close to 4.8 in the finished beer. I target a mash PH of 5 to help drive down the final PH but is still isn't down to the 4.5 range. Do you guys have any insight into this?
I think you said you were dry-hopping at a ratio of 4.5 lbs/barrel which, if my math is correct, that's 12 oz for a 5 gallon batch? (homebrew scale)
That's about what we do for DIPAs, for this and most IPAs we dry hop at 3.3 lbs per bbl (8.5 oz in 5 gallons).
@@sapwoodcellars8378 thanks! Had the pleasure of meeting Scott this past Saturday at Whitey's. You guys are doing great stuff (including these videos). Congratulations!
When is Scott releasing the book?
2019. Still going through review from several hop experts.
@@sapwoodcellars8378 Cant wait
hey guys, i have a (maybe not so smart) question, your grain bill is the same as a 5gal batch but proportional to 10 bbls? or is it different?
It should be the same percentages. We get a bit more color from the direct fire at the this scale, so your beer may end up an SRM lighter, but nothing I'd work to change! The hop scaling is a bit more complex given our longer/hotter whirlpool than most homebrewers.
@@sapwoodcellars8378 thanks a lot
Why not run through heat x back through whirlpool port until
I find a lot of NEIPAs to be under-bittered. I think there should still be a balancing amount of iso-alpha to offset the sweetness of the higher FG. We do lower the whirlpool temp for some lower gravity beers, but still usually 185-195F. The only time I go below 180F is for hoppy sours post-Lacto.
Plumbing is sometimes a limitation. In my system the only option to knock out back into the whirlpool is through the door which isn't ideal.
LIKED, SUBSCRIBED, AND COMMENTED! :D
Like the videos but the guitar music on repeat in the background is distracting.
Love the ending of the video, haha
Can not approve of your fermentation in particular if you do not have any filtation after maturation, which is max 4 days long?! thats ridiculous. Than you cool your beer ve hearted at the end of your fermentation which prevents the yeast to dismantle diacetyl in a good rate, which means further you need an even longer time to mature your beer. And you keep it cold at 35°F for 4 days? Why so cold? And how should it help wiht your dry hopping. What do you mean a centrifuge speeds up the time a beer peaks, I dont think you want a centrifuge it destroys more then you gain. Then you talk again and again about your hops, but the body of a beer is the malt and I understood 10% wheat malt and then awkward stuff. Im worried if your beer has the body to cope with that amount of hops. To be clear it may sound a bit harsh but I wanna help cause I think there more people brewing the more people know how awesome beer is and how overrated wine is ;).
With this batch the first dry hop addition was made while fermentation was still active. That provides yeast that scavenge (the hopefully minimal) amount of oxygen introduced during dry hopping. Since this video we have added a pressurized hop doser to further reduce DO pick-up. Key especially post-fermentation.
The beer is allowed to warm to 71F toward the end of fermentation. This allows the yeast to complete fermentation and convert diacetyl. So far we haven't had any issues with 6-8 days before cooling. We monitor flavor and FG before crashing.
Nearly all craft breweries cold crash their beer post-fermentation. 35F is actually warmer than most, 31-32F is typical. Cold accelerates floculation and sedimentation. This allows us to get beer that is free of particulate without the need for filtration, which can strip hop aromatics and is a risk for DO pick-up.
A centrifuge is essentially artificial gravity. It allows this sedimentation to happen quickly, dropping out yeast and hop particulate without the need for extended cold conditioning. Many of the larger breweries that specialize in hazy IPAs use them to fantastic effect! The key is a light hand, controlling the speed and flow avoid stripping everything out.
The perception of mouthfeel is complex stuff. Water chemistry, yeast, malt, and hops all play a role in the texture of a beer. Rings of Light is probably the beer I'm most proud of because of the luscious body even under 5% ABV,
Hope that helps to provide some clarity!
@@sapwoodcellars8378 ty for your answers, but if I look at the beer you drink and the haze I ve to say, that there is still active yeast in and that cold crashing is a good thing but if you dont let it mature in the tank for 2-3 weeks under min. 0.8-1,2 bar your haze and so your flavor will be flawed. Cooling doesnt prevent filtration, but if you decide to ve a hazy beer like IPA you need some time. Which brings me to the question how do you carbonate your beer? And if you are so in panic of oxygen, why you dont add some vitamin C during dry hoping?
Centrifuge seems like a good idea but I dont like it. First, temperature exposure. Second, shear forces on proteins and dextrins. Third, CO2 has to be added afterwards. Perception is complex....rly xD. I brew beer now for 15 years and doing my master in brewery technology atm and I wish I could taste your beer because I really like what and how you brew I can see the love and dedication. Keep it. Would love to see a beer with bourbon smoked wood chips, think would hit your style!
Other breweries that specialize in hazy IPAs have had them tested and consistently found a relatively low level of yeast cells (
@@sapwoodcellars8378 now I understand much more! you mature it in your kegs...well ever experienced autolyse (~selfdestruction of yeast cells)? And hop creep must be a pain cause every keg could be different. A centrifuge does make sense for you...so expensive :(. If you mean the long riping process in a tank not keg with "best german practices" you are probably right it doesnt fit your style but it would maybe help with some problems. but I am super happy with your barrels, tasted a wheat beer out of a sherry barrel in belgium, amazing! Good luck!
Never had any issues with autolysis. Most of our kegs are stored cold, which greatly reduces the chances of a significant amount of cells dying over the month from kegging to the beer running out. English yeast tends to be more flocculant than German strains, so most of it is left behind in the fermentor. The bulk drops out in just 24 hours.
Terrible glasses 🙄but a good video 😏
Fart beer. Wine doesn't make you fart, it is better tasting, is easier to make (although it takes nine months vs nine days to make), is better for you, is less fattening, gives you a better buzz, and is less expensive to make (i.e. if you have access to fresh fruit). Don't get me wrong, I like beer but I like wine better.