Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
How to SHARPEN a new JAPANESE CHISEL - (SUPER POLISHED & DEADLY SHARP!)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 1 гру 2018
- Thank you for watching!
If you enjoyed, consider subscribing!
• Social Media Stuff
-Instagram - Seths_Project
•Where do I get my Japanese Tools From?
I will search around on eBay for cheap tools, but if
I'm looking for something really high quality I will
Visit "www.Noborihamono.com". The Website is in all
Japanase, but you can figure out how to navigate the
site very easily.
If you would like to contacts me for offers, or want
to ask me quesiton you can do so by sending me a DM
on instagram listed above!
Thank you for posting this video. It helped me in sharpening my Japanese chisels.
I recently attended a timber frame class at EcoNest in Oregon. Robert LaPorte spent nearly an entire day on how to sharpen a NEW Japanese chisel. What a wonderful experience.
I just acquired some very old Japanese chisels and I am now only learning that it takes more skill than conventional western chisels to create the sharpness.
Your method of sharpening is like I do. Norton has a great video on this method of sharpening.
I never sharp on grindger too fast mount a wheel on drill press run on losest belt speed.
I would lay the back on the length to flatten pressor at the primary. This way you remain planer.
Minor techniques, but not all shops can afford Sharpton plates! I do all mine on granite grind and sharping and honing on glass with rough. No micro and no strop!
Is it common practice to use water? Or is it dependent on the type of stone? I was looking at an Arkansas stone kit with honing oil, not sure if thats ok or is water better? Thanks!!
Woodworking Noob lol
Looking to buy a quality set of oire nomi chisels...what brand or maker would you recommend?
fascinating - but im suprised youre using a dry stone grinder - temper and all that. ive just bought my first japanese chisel, initially the edge is holding much better than my current paring chisels (sorby and Isles) - they were 9 inch shanks, but they are now 7 or less and have become difficult to temper. interesting your comments about secondary bevels - we often get used to such things without question - could it be that secondary bevels save time when you are under pressure? There is a tendancy to "Worship" the old which often brings up the question, are those who are asking the question, makers or just tool enthusiasts? For instance i use a fiber wheel with polishing compound on my lathe - here everything is done by hand
Great video. I just bought a few Ouchi chisels, second hand ones and will follow your advice for sharpening these.
I need to make an updated video on my sharpening method. It has changed slightly lol
@@SethsProjectPlease do, I am very interested!
When you prep the blade for the fist time, you need to get the back to a mirror finish first and after that you get to the bevel and work on the ura just to remove the burr. In case you have to tap out the ura ,you've worked on the bevel and now you have to hit it with a hammer and it may go out of flat.
you didnt mention what angle japanese chisels should be. 30 degrees?
Thanks a lot for the video, very informative. What's the brand/maker of your new chisel?
passg1 The makers name was Masashige "正繁". He passed away sometime in November. There is a very limited number of his chisels left. I believe the set I bought this chisel from is the last ones. I plan on buying a few more before they are all gone! Beautiful chisels :)
Seth, very informative video. What style/brand of flattening plate do you recommend
Trend diamond plate. I found it's the best. I need to buy a new one actually!
Hi, I'm curious why you think a micro bevel will ruin the chisel?
If you do freehand you developed a feel for when you are seated on the primary, and you can see the trace path. Too high too low you will hear, feel and see a difference. It's like playing an instrument it takes some practice, skill, and knowledge by observation!
For newbies, go to glee market but a chisel for a dollar and practice first, then play with the expensive chisles! By then you will be ready 'grasshopper'!
I would like to know the woods you most commonly use this chisel for, and the actual angle of the bevel is. Do you use different bevel angles for different woods? Thanks
radius north I use this chisel in everything but white oak. The angle is about 27 degrees, and yes I do! For pine I use a 17 degree chisel. It usually gives me a cleaner surface :)
@@SethsProject why not use it on white oak? Just curious as a lot of fine Japanese joinery is done on American and Japanese white oak.
i don't know how i ended up here, I know nothing about any of this but this was some soothing 9 minutes and 46 seconds of my life I'm very happy with.
Sharpening is much easier when you relax a bit. There's no need to press down that hard on the bevel like you do. It also makes it much easier to put pressure where you want it, the hagane.
Seth, are you right or left handed? Where to find those chisels?
I am left handed, and you can find the chisels here ----> noborihamono.com/zansetu-pg.html
So, it seems you can only sharpen then so much before you run into that big hollow in the back of the chisel? I have some of my father's very old chisels and they are noticable shorter than younger chisels of the same make/model.
Once you sharpen and grind to the hollow on the back...You then have to hammer out the top bevel on the soft steel to push the cutting edge down. Look up tapping out japanese chisel on YT
@@adamtoth7474 wow, that's crazy. I wouldn't expect chisel steel to be that soft. Does it need to be heat treated again? Are they hear treated to begin with?
@@MrApru1 ya they are heat treated really high, the steel is actually known to be so high it will chip a little easier than normal less expensive chisels. But they get more sharp and cut like a dream. They dont need to be treated again, just dont use a speed grinder and ruin them in the first place. It's kinda crazy how it work, hitting the soft metal pushes the hard metal down, I'm not really sure of the physics behind it... but that's how they do it
So what happens when you sharpen the chisel bevel back far enough to get to the curved b part under the base?
a) that will take a very long time b) time to buy a new one (or don't buy a japanese chisel)
If you flatten the back a little every time you sharpen then the flat back will also slowly move back.
Tapping out, but with chisels, in practice you need to grind the hollow bigger more often than having the hollow run out to the cutting edge. I have used chisels that have had at least 2" sharpened away (mostly by previous owners in Japan).
I find that I’ve developed a step in the back of the chisel and it catches and damaged the stone so I personally flatten the entire back.
Hi, what stone (brand) do you use?
MrBorrego23 Shapton Glass for sure. They are the best for me.
Brilliant, I am thinking about buying japanese chisels, I looked at Fujikawa or kakuri, those adapt to my budget, have you ever used them? Can you recommend some on the same price range?? Cheers
I don't ever recommend buying a set of Japanese chisels. The best way to buy chisels in my opinion is to buy only the chisel you need for a certain task. Like I do really small work mostly, so I started out with a 3mm and a 6mm chisel. They cost me about $100 a piece, but I think it is well worth it. I generally look for blue steel chisels. I really recommend the Matsumara blue steel chisels, or go to Nobori's site that is listed in the description and have a look at the chisels he has listed. They are high quality :)
Seth's Project Woodworking thanks, yes I am looking for 3,9,18,42 mm as they adapt to the work I am normally doing, matsumura is a bit out of my budget but I will look into it The ones that i want to avoid are speed steal,
Julio Pizano I don't think you could go wrong with the kakuri chisels!
Seth's Project Woodworking I think I will go for Fujikawa and share my thoughts with you, your wood projects are brilliant. Cheers
@@superjulio891 Thank you :)
Pleased I watched this as I was about to buy a set of the shapton pro series as couldn’t see any andvantage to the glass stones and they look so thin that I was worried they’d wear out. So was going to 1000 5000 10000 ones but think I’ll go with the glass ones now. Just the lapping plate that I’ll have to sell a kidney for😂 good video
Can you tell me how much the chisel cost that you were sharpening? It was an awesome chisel. Nice vid! 👍
B Souza with shipping and everything it costed me $110
Why do you think a micro bevel destroys a Japanese chisel??? I have worked with Japanese chisels for 30 years and always used them with a micro bevel. Japanese (traditional) chisels have precisely the cutting steel embedded in the mirror side, in addition, the chisel will generally last much longer with a micro bevel. And after I came across a honing jig in 2004 I've been using one ever since - I'm trained in "freehand honing" but see so many advantages in using the jig that I've "converted". And now that we're at it, using a dry tinder on a Japanese chisel is (for me) a no-brainer -since it's precisely at the tip on the mirror side that the hardening is important, it doesn't take very much before the hardening is gone.
I've learned quite a bit since making this video. I still try to avoid a secondary bevel if I'm going to freehand sharpen because eventually the secondary bevel will get too large and it will have to be ground, and I'm not a big fan of grinding unless I absolutely have to (personal preference).It most certainly won't destroy the chisel lol. I also use a jig for sharpening now. Some of my japanese tools are too odly shaped for the jig though, so I still do freehand from time to time. Thank for the comment!
@@SethsProject Ha ha - I only see now that your film is 4 years old - my bad 😂
Thorough video. Did not quite understand the point about a microbevel ruining a Japanese chisel, why is that a problem?
It's pretty hard to explain, but it's the way the soft iron is laminated on top of the hard iron (White steel). I used to add a micro bevel to the chisel, but once I stopped doing that I instantly noticed a difference. The Japanese don't do micro bevels either. I'm sure they have a good reason.
Thanks Seth. This question would be an interesting video if you are going to make more of your in-depth tool videos
What make is the chisel and what make is the plane as . Thanksnin advance 👍
emlyn budds The chisel was made by Masashige 正繁, and the plane was made by Tsunesaburo! Masashige passed away in early November, and I would like to get a few more chisels before they are all gone!
Seth's Project Woodworking thanks so much for the info got some oire nome ones but even tho can’t touch or feel ones in you vid they look amazing quality steel. Cheers bud
emlyn budds Honestly I don't know how good the steel holds up because I haven't used it yet, and I have no idea when I will either x)
@@SethsProject Plenty of Masashige stock here: www5e.biglobe.ne.jp/~ttoishi/sub11.html
Ummmmm so i went to that website and I was like, "hey! that set of chisels looks amazing!" *adds to cart* *not understanding Japanese*...and then I was like, now what do i do?
I've been wondering : why are people so opposed to secondary or rounded bevels on japanese chisels?
A flat blade bevel is far easier to sharpen and maintain freehand on a japanese chisel compared to a western counterpart IMO. Even though the hardness of a japanese chisel may be higher at the cutting edge, only 1/4 to 1/5th of the bevel is that hard steel compared to the western chisel that has hard steel for the entire bevel. Micro bevels leave the hard steel unsupported to a degree as the other reason for the softer steel on a japanese chisel is a support structure for the main cutting steel that can take some of the forces from a heavy blow. all IMO :)
@@hurcorh I heard all of this before, however I noticed no difference in toughness when sharpening them with micro bevel.
To be fair I use natural stones for finishing and the ones I have are very slow and tend to stick the blade. A slight rocking motion allows for a 2-4° rounded micro bevel. If the blade is very flat as well as the stone, it only takes a minute.
@@iotaje1 For sticking stones, maybe trying building up a slurry and use less water on the surface. I have found with the higher grit natural stones typically they require less water to operate smoothly and a light slurry from a nagura or a diamond plate helps reduce the friction for me.
@@hurcorh On waterstones it works very well. Lately I tried using a small Belgian Coticule as a nagura stone, it works very well. The grit cuts very quickly with a smooth finish, and is washed away very easily for a mirror finish.
Lately I've been sharpening on a natural turkey stone, and it's very sticky.
@@iotaje1 Thanks for sharing. I'm yet to try a belgian Coticule. I do certainly want to!
Why would a microbevel ruin the chisel ? It's simply for convince.
I found a site, www.japanwoodworker.com/categories/chisels, that is in English.
Have you been to this site before, and if so, what are your thoughts of the products available for the prices listed compared to Noroihamono?
I'm very familiar with the site! They have some great tools from some great makers, but they also have some not so great tools, so you might need to be a little careful. Nobori's makers are incredible blacksmith. It's all about what you are looking for specifically. Here are some links on japan woodworker that I can personally recommend .
• bit.ly/2LyNQvx
• bit.ly/2BGrWSr
• bit.ly/2EODyWD
• bit.ly/2GIGg2y
You will be greatly impressed by any of those :)
@@SethsProject thank you! And thanks for the links.
@@SethsProject These links no longer work. I was wondering if they still have your recommendations on the site?
Woodprix comes with very useful plans with all the details you need.
First of all, it is in Japanese. So, it is hard to spend close to 80 Eur for something you do not even understand properly.
Dale brotherton and Toshio Odate have great books i'd highly suggest you read. blog-diyjapanesejoinery.com is another good asset.
I'm probably a pervert... I'm coming for watching your the chisel again and again LOL. yeah really good chisel. and also your sharpening technique is outstanding. Umm... I also want to buy it very much.
You're coming for watching his the chisel? What the fuck does that even mean?
@@slappy8941 yeah I came here againg LOL! Of course Seth sharpening technique is outstanding! But, this chisel is the highest peak. Seth judgment is also wonderful.
Japanese tap their chisels with a hammer and anvel to get the ednge in the don't grind it
Using a bench grinder will fuck up any japanese chisel. The heat will destroy the integrity of the metal.
Kongen Gorm Heat will mess up any steel tool not just Japanese chisels. Key is to not let it get too hot. The Japanese use bench grinders to repair chisels all the time. In fact they use them in the making process as well. I've been doing this for awhile, and seen no difference in edge sharpness or hardness. That all being said I try to avoid having to use the bench grinder at all costs. It can certainly be risky.
You are using the word flat a lot of times but in fact flattening the stone like you do with another stone is not make it really flat. In fact you make it convex.
Everytime you go over the edge of the stone you want to make flat you lower its edge. Bit the same as making mirrors for a telescope. At least you have to give pression in the middle of the flattening stone and not keep it in your hands with your fingers over the edge of the stone. That way you will not give pressure on the edge of the stone.
That is likely to happen in the way you describe. It should be easier to flatten the stone on an abrasive surface. Like sandpaper on a glass plate. But then again, I don't think it matters. First, like Seth is using the stone, he is tending to make it concave again. And as long as the radius of the convex is larger than what you can allow on your object to sharpen there is no harm done. So concave is much worse than convex.