Mate you really seem to be happy and content sharpening your chisels , and it was nice to see you so happy , so as a selfless act of kindness on my behalf i would drop my chisels of at yours to be sharpened .
Most chisels absolutely are NOT flat on the back. They may be flat enough for a tradesman to shave something off here or there, but for furniture building and joinery you need them to be dead flat - and they absolutely are not. Therefore, you have to spend considerable time (usually measured in hours) on EACH chisel to lap the back and make it completely flat. That is where the hollow on the back of a japanese chisel comes into play. Because it's hollow it means you don't have to remove nearly the same amount of metal to get the back flat - and therefore it takes much less time to do so. You also touch up the back every single time you sharpen the chisels, so having that hollow there is really just about saving time during the sharpening process after the backs are made to be flat.
Robin, the reason for the concave back is because the cutting layer of steel (they're 2 layered) is harder than most western tool steel (much higher carbon content), and the reduced surface area helps to reduce the time taken for lapping the back sides. Japanese White Paper (and Blue Paper) Steel are renowned for their durability, keen edges and edge holding, but they can take a bit more effort to flatten, and sharpen than softer steels. I use these quite a lot for both fine work and general carpentry and they're equally capable for each. They're traditionally used with a metal mallet rather than a western wooden style and provided the end-ring is properly installed and seated the red oak handles will take a lot of punishment.
I got myself a set from Axminster 15 years ago. Great for hardwood. Less sharpening. The back milling reduces friction, it gets deeper as it goes back to the handle. It needs flattening to bring the bowl shape further back from the edge. Then sharpen it.
The blade actually has two types of steel in them just like the Japanese swords of old.The cutting edge is very hard to hold a sharp edge for longer with the bulk of the blade being malleable so it supports the cutting edge to reduce vibration and prevent chipping of the cutting edge. The harder steel is the part that is dished out and to constantly flatten the back during sharpening would reduce the thickness and the lifespan of the chisel. Not to mention that being hard it takes a lot of work. At college I had a fellow student who was Japanese and had qualified as a carpenter in Japan for many years. He used the hammer you show for actually beating the support bevel when regrinding the chisel in order to flatten the back cutting edge. He was a tremendous craftsman and his work is in many galleries around the word. In the 30 some years I have used Japanese chisels and planes I have never had a serious chip in the blades that couldn't be removed on a course water stone without resorting to mechanical grinding.
From the google: Oire Nomi chisels are the standard Japanese general purpose bench chisel. ... They come with the standard Japanese hollow grind on the back which keeps the back of the chisel free from the timber. As you flat the back, the hollow moves up the chisel, so you always have a flat back to the edge.Jan 31, 2012
You're gonna be working on only exotic and spotlessly clean wood with these, Robin - and in that arena, they will enable flawless craftsmanship. Use the good chisels to get you there - then these to finish it. I bet they'll hold an exquisite edge.
as robin said, metal distorts as it get heat treated, in japan good steel was difficult to come by which is why the Japanese chisels are so thick, to be more conservative with the use of their good (high hardness) steel they laminate a hard back onto a soft top, that way your cutting edge holds a good edge but doesn't waste this steel on the upper part of the chisel where it will never be used as part of a cutting edge. the purpose of stamping a hollow into the back is to stop a bump from forming on the back with would make paring cuts for joinery difficult, this was especially important as they never made a mechanical fixing such as a screw or a nail (going back to steel being a rare resource and it didn't want to be wasted) so they used very precise joinery to overcome this. as such a paring cut was a lot more important so that the joints held properly as they weren't assisted with a metal fastener. hope that helps anyone who was interested, hope even more that is makes sense XD
The hollow in the back is there, because the metal there is much harder than on the front and thus harder to sharpen. With the hollow theres just less material that has to be removed. If you flatten the back from time to time the holllow will "move back" and you will be able to use the hole length of the chisel. Just be careful that it doesnt get to hot while sharpening. Enjoy your japanese Chisels!
Yes. They are made with a thin layer of “hardened steel” laminated on the longest side. The shorter side is normal steel but the cutting edge has a layer of heat treated high carbon steel which allows it to take a very sharp edge but makes it super brittle. Mishandling Japanese chisel can seriously shorten their lives that is why they usually supply a hide wrap to protect them with. Do not treat them like site chisels.
I’ve always kept a set of these in my workshop,they are amazing things,the hollow is so when you flatten the back then your only removing a small amount of metal -also if you flatten the back then you’ll make a flat again on the back edge-there’s a lot of work goes into producing a chisel like that. I’ve read when guns came into japan the samurai sword makers work dropped off so they made chisels and planes instead
I bought my first Japanese chisel in 1976 whilst in Japan studying joinery. They are a laminated, rather like a Japanese sword, although it is not uncommon to find laminated plane irons from wooden planes in the UK. The backs are hollow ground, to facilitate faster flattening. However, quite often you loose registration when paring narrow joints particularly when relying on the back of the Nomi/chisel. To over come this problem they offer chisels with multiple flutes on the back. If you chip the edge it is possible to peen the metal from the back but it is not easy. When sharpening you need to maintain the single bevel, "Time consuming". I observe that the oak handle has been dressed over the ferrule, this indicates a good quality set of chisels. White paper, blue paper, quite honestly nowadays steel is not that expensive to justify wide ranging price differences. They are high maintenance. I admire their craftsmanship, they are not particularly comfortable ,chisel in hand. They are not my preferred choice of chisel.
Yes there is something therapeutic about sharpening chisels, I was taught to be able to shave the hairs off the back of my hand, that was sharp enough! Keep up the good work. cheers
Funnily enough I thought the same when I bought mine.. there's some good videos on UA-cam about it... Basically as you flatten the back of the chisel that hollow moves back so effectively you always have a straight cutting edge..
The chisel is made of two metals, a thin super hard one about RC65 that the back side is made of which includes the tip. The rest is a really soft iron that acts like a shock absorber. When steel is that hard it tends to chip easily so the soft steel absorbs the shock. Looking at the bevel you should see the two steels. The back is so hard it would take a really long time to flatten it so they add the dip or "ura" which reduces the surface area that needs to be ground down. When flattening the back I was taught to take a long piece of wood, about 12-18 inches and lay it on the chisel that's on the stone. Grab the chisel handle and the wood on one side and just the wood on the tip side. Bear down on the tip side and control it with the handle side making sure the flat side remains flat on the stone. Switch the chisel end to end to keep the grinding even or one side may become thinner. I do this on diamond stones as water stones will dip too much with this much pressure. When I switch to water stones I just use my fingers. I do this on western chisels that are made of really hard steel which don't have the dip on the back.
I love this, the tactile relationship between a master and his tools. I really appreciate your videos, they’re informative and well produced. I’d have you doing my extension if you weren’t so bloody far away! Take care.
I have used Japanese chisels for many years as a Luthier. Your question about the edge getting chipped or worn down to the end of the hollow. It should never happen because what you do if it gets close is grind down the back of the chisel. This is quick because of that hollow and that is actually the reason for the hollow so you do not have to remove loads of metal - just the flat edges at the sides of the hollow. This is a gentle and precise grinding done by hand on a Japanese Water Stone or water wheel. I always grind and hone all my Japanese chisels by hand. Much more accurate.
Hi all, i only use one type of chisel, i might even be a snob when it comes to chisels, i only use JW marples shamrock chisel sheffield england, and the reason for this and i know it doesn't even make a different but i prefer that all my hand tools are british made, so i go and hunt down the second hand and new old stock tools, i would rather use british made hand tools over any other tool purely because those tools there can never be replaced
I use my tormek water wheel on my tools.. Fantastic machine.. Once set up you can fly through your chisels /planes in no time..then my diamond sharpening plates for day to day use.
I claim full credit for your new acquisition !!!! The Japanese chisel topic (involving Roger as I recall) first came up during the thread I started about 6+9 hinge spacing on doors a while back - I remember recommending Oire Nomis and Kirschens.All you need now is a set of 3 nice Gyokucho Japanese pull saws (brilliant) and you're good to go. Enjoy :)
the hollow in the back is purely to remove the amount of steel that needs grinding/sharpening/flattening etc. When you eventually get to the hollow, it can be re ground to its original (shorter) state
The hollow grind is there to make flattening the back easier. Every time you grind the blade, (as opposed to honing), after sharpen the bevel, you flatten the back, to do it you put pressure on the front tip very slightly and you shouldn't run in to issues for a long time even of you ding the edge several times.
Regarding the hollow, others have noted that it's much easier to flatten the back. I don't remember who did the video, but they set up their own Japanese chisels which don't have the hollow originally, or had very little hollow. They use a hammer and small anvil ( I want to say specifically designed to create the hollow) to custom set where they want the hollow. That way, they can be more conservative about where and how deep the hollow is set. This person's chisels also had a metal hoop on the top of the handle and they liked to reset that too. Sorry I don't have the reference, but it was a good, thorough explanation of intended setup, maintenance, and use of Japanese chisels.
A B I was hoping someone would mention this. I have read the same a few times over the years and recall mention that care was needed to avoid fracturing or fatigue in the steel when re dishing the hollow. I have a few well used Japanese chisels that need this and haven’t ever gotten around to trying it out.
Oire Nomi means rabbeting chisel .You can pay over 4k for a set of museum quality Damascus steel Oire Nomi 's and even over 1k for a Slick . It would be a shame to use them after paying that lol . It took me about 5 hours to get 9 chisels and a Slick "Tsuki nomi "worked and polished to mirror finish but boy is it worth it . You would'nt want to do a lot of heavy pounding on the Oire Nomi because of them being so hard which means they can possibly break at the tip . "Tataki Nomi "is the Firmer Chisel which can be used for heavier duty work like beams and pillars.
Oire nomi does NOT mean rabbeting chisel numb skull. And an oirenomi is a tataki nomi. Why the fuck are you people using Japanese chisel when you don't even have a clue about the basics? You amateurs are the reason why are are so few Japanese blacksmiths left who make a proper old school chisel. You dumbasses use them in ways they aren't meant to be used. You chip the edge, complain with the seller (or blacksmith) and you know what happens? The blacksmith reduces the hardness so he doesn't have to deal with complaints from idiots.
@@Adrian-AosFotos-Irish Well, I speak and write Japanese so I think I know what it means. 鑿 is "nomi" which translates to chisel. The term "oiire" is made up of 2 characters, namely these " 追入れ". The first is 追 or "oi" which roughly translates to "to chase" or "to follow". The second one is 入れ or "ire" which more or less translates to "insert". The translation would be chase insert chisel. Or as Google translates it to "chase put chisel". It does not and will never mean rabbeting chisel.
@@Nico-bu6bj Good for you buddy ,If you're right you're right and if i'm wrong i'm wrong. You come across as being a bit of an impatient aggressive prick ,very un Japanese . I wouldn't wear your attitude for two seconds face to face . I hope your not a Woodwork teacher lol
Well, guys. I am not sure why this discussion is getting so heated, but let me add my two pence worth. Firstly, I can neither speak nor write in Japanese, I can however use the power of Google, which led me to a number of links that seem to imply that Adrian is correct. Here's one of them on Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_chisel . Now, I am prepared to accept that the Wiki page might be wrong, in which case Nico you might want to let them know. All the best to you both
Comparisons between Japanese and western chisels are not very useful, especially by those accustomed to abusing the ubiquitous bog standard plastic handled (frankly crap) tools. It should be remembered like western chisels Japanese ones come in a range of size and form, for different tasks. These ori nomi are most akin to a fine butt chisel, like Crown or Ashley Iles. It is the tradition to use a hammer(genno) rather that a mallet, ergo the forged steel ring. They normally come requiring some work before use, driving the ring on and mushrooming the wood some. As some comments observe the "ura" is to aid flattening of the hard steel. Only incompetence will see the edge encroach on the ura, it should recede at at an equivalent rate to the edge, as you hone. You never grind them, nor do you sharpen with a secondary bevel. Polish them up with good quality wet stones to 16,000g or so. If you can be bothered with all the faff they will reward you with sharp durable edges that are a joy to use. If you can't, go back to the pot metal and plastic jobbies.
Hi as gav2759 said they require some work to get ship-shape but are very good the hollow as people have said is an aid to flattening the back and in theory reduces friction, but the edge can be restored (re-lengthened) by 'gently tapping the 'bevel' area when the harder steel is eventually worn away! (UA-cam for info, its important you don't tap the hard steel it'll crack!). Finally as other folk have said use them for finer stuff they will chip and crack if you hit metal. Lovely set though. See some (variable quality) of UA-cam 'Suikoushya' videos he's a Japanese joiner who has a lot of videos on sharpening and joinery using nomi. You produce excellent videos, explanations clear and often pointing out the pros and cons of different approaches, Great!
A gennou usually has a flat and a convex side. The convex side is used to hammer nails in flush with the wood without damaging the surrounding surface. Takes some practice
I must be old for my years, only 29 and depending on how much usage i do to my chisels planes ect it is nice to have a Saturday morning to sharpen and clean it all up. Great hand tool work like chiseling an hand planeing is getting lost with all the house bashing rubbish. Robin check out the samurai carpenter his finish is stunning all Japanese stlye. Cheers.
All I use is Japanese Chisels. The more you flatten the back of these chisels the smaller the hollow gets on the back which means you can keep using it until it is a nub. This is a huge subject in its self and unfortunately, it is not easy to find a good quality Japanese chisel in the UK. Most firms buy these chisels from a large corporate manufacturer so they are machiene made. The best chisels are hand made but are ridiculously priced (e.g £100 - £300 each). Perfect if your a cabinet maker, japanese timber framer etc, but that is about it.
Exactly, hand use whetstones only to sharpen. They'll last forever. Never use a grindstone. They are much harder steel. I have a Hidari Ichihiro chisel that has been used for about 50 years and perfectly maintained but is only a few centimetres long now. The concave back is maintained if sharpened properly.
The japanese chisels have the "scoop" out the back because they're hollow ground. The idea is there is less material to remove when you flatten the back on the stone when new. These chisels tend to be made from laminated steel and will last longer than traditional hardened and tempered chisels, so the edge being close to the hollow grind doesnt mean they wont last. When used as a bench, (as opposed to a site) chisel their edge will last a lot longer and regrinding the angle is rarely needed.
You flatten the back each time you sharpen the chisel. That way the flat at the front edge of the back moves down the chisel at the same rate as the bevel.
I believe that the cut out on the back it to allow ease of honing the back side of the chisel so u do t spend ages flattening it every time u need to sharpen it of get a nick out
I think the concave is because the Japanese sharpen the chisels on the flat rather than the bevel. So with the concave there is less material to take out when sharpening. They are also made from extra hard steel so are suppose to require sharpening less frequently. I could be wrong but i think the Japanese have a long history of steel fabrication from the Samaria Days and could possibly be the reason for the superior steel. Would love a set of those. they're definitely one for the workshop tho.
Hello Robin, thanks for a great video. May I suggest the book Japanese Woodworking tools by Toshio Odate. a real insite into Japanese tools, and the hollow including plane blades.
Chisel manufacturers absolutely do NOT ensure that the backs are dead flat, not even most the high end ones. I have literally never purchased a chisel that was already dead flat
The reason why the back of the chisel ia hollowed out has more to do with reducing sharpening and set up time. And if you were to chip you would have to flatten the back of the chisel even more to save the edge. By the way you should flatten the back of your chisels. Use some sandpapper on a tablesaw and grind away until the back of the chisel has an even polish or scratch pattern.
Liked your video. I'm not a carpenter or a joiner but I often wonder why people use a metal hammer with a chisel. I know on site you have to use the tools you have to hand and a wooden mallet is a bit "school woodwork" but surely the dead blow from a mallet transmits more controlled energy to the tool. With a metal hammer you get bounce back and I think a bit less control so your work can suffer.
Japanese Woodworkers never use a honing system like this in the video they always sharpen by hand and you would grind the back of the chisel and much as the bevel to ensure you never run into the issue you mentioned, have a full set of 30 and always do it by hand as they keep an edge so well that I never need to use automated grinder to accomplish a good edge.
Robin, never sharpen these chisals one the grinding stone, use one sandpaper or wetstones and only sharpen ftom the back. Then just sharpening your secondary bevel on the beveled edge, these types of chisals are more for fine carpentry so keep them safe in your workshop and not on site where the bricky will use them to cut his blocks, 😂
Sharpening them is far different thing it’s a zen experience so when you flatten the edge each time you then flatten the back off usually using water stones which are very messy in my opinion I get the look of the Japanese and how nice they are but really in the real world there a lot of Hassle that I could do without
Hopefully this kind of chisel will never be damaged, only loose it's edge, and you obviously get that by the way you only bring them out for special occasions, the hollow on the back allows you to re flatten while removing as little material as possible, a 1000# plus stone should keep these chisels going for years, Record sharpening systems are amazing but are not for this quality of tool, I'd recommend hand sharpening on a Charnley Forrest stone (classically used for surgical instruments) to keep the best edge. Great video, hope I have helped you, you have taught me loads,
Love all your videos 👌 just curious what you make of that record power sharpening machine, as I am trying to decide between that or the tormek as big difference in price?
Its very satisfying seeing a tradesman sharpen his chisels without ridiculous wet stones and gear not needed, the old school carpenters just had a simple oilstone and stropped on canvas bag on smooth side, now in tech colleges they don't teach old school ways which still are better , its 5 times more time lost to sharpen with wet stones " a sales gimmick" a chisel that once you strop , you go back in day and re strop and razor sharp again , my chisel roll is sharp to shave with because old guys ensure passing on skills , I have apprentices who ask me how to get sharp chisels and handsaws and it seems lost in younger teachers today , the easy way .
I can’t see any benefit of hollow grinding a chisel, and if through time it is ground back to the hollow, it will not cut a flat due to the concave effect. Hollow grinding is generally reserved for scissor action cutting blades or a knife where both sides are hollowed in order to obtain a thinner cutting edge, but not for a chisel.
Well the purpose here is same as with the plane. To reduce friction and make the work more easier, but you will get that only if you work with the chisel for longer period of time like whole day. Then it counts every bit of resistance.
Try, The cornish little nomi shop, they sell shapton whetstones, japenese handtools and if you want to take it to the next level of sharpness Japanese natural whetstones.
I,ve fancied a set for some time now though I haven't taken the plunge as I just don't need them for the type of work I do. Now offer me a set of original Sheffield steel marples and il bite your hand off!
Totally of topic, but when you say spray the doors will there be an accompanying video? Just did a few doors with a roller and brush using Sadolin Varnish but i'm not happy with the finish.
If the hollows come too close to the edge, try putting pressure on the first third of the back when you plane this. If that doesn't solve the problem (the closer the plane is to the edge, the better the chisels cuts) you can (carefully) use a technique called "ura-dashi" ( www.youtube.com/watch?v= 0RGfiRghJ7I&t=1s ), but be very careful with narrow chisels - you will easily separate the steel from the iron.
It to mske sharpening easier. Ive used japanese chisles for years now. They remove the belly when make them ss they know its impossible to mske it dead flat, so better to belly in than out
They are not supposed to be ground out like we do with marples etc, the bi -metal is way harder than the steel we use There’s a two stage sharpening process for them on fine stones
Japanese tools should only be used ceremoniously with the utmost care to the strict rules of handling., and sharpened with a raw herring and salt from Mt. Fuji. Stick to German tools and never apologize for banging on them.
Mmmmmm I personally prefer a Indian oil stone , soaked in light oil , I was always taught to use the side of the grinder to sharpen , I honestly believe you get way more control (if you have a standard 6" grinder ) not a slow grinding stone careful not to blue the chisels , Always fancied a set of Narex chisels but cant get a 25mm one ??? The old Stanley 5002s (blue or black ) used to sharpen a treat
I have to say that I respectfully disagree with using the side of a grind stone. It can weaken them and cause them to explode. Also you have a different surface speed depending on how close you are to the centre of the wheel which would lead to a different surface finish along the width of the bevel. That being said, I'm no chippy I work in engineering so use the grindstone mostly for drills etc and not wood chisels. All the best.
most carpenters do not have the luxury of a slow stone , They will sharpen on a bench grinder , Many will not do fine work , that requires Japanese chisels , Although I respect Robin for his videos and posts , Some of the tools highlighted are way out of financial reach of the general trades person in the uk , There are many great tradespeople , that do not have Japanese chisels and Mayfell saws .
@@thulegezelschap5884 Japanese chisels are more of a joiners chisel though. I would love a set but I am constantly getting chips it them working on old door frames,,plus I like drinking a gazillion tons of beer
You grind the back down as you move down the chisel. That's why it gets thicker the further down you go. I have had mine for many years and when ever the top edge starts to get a bit short I take a bit off the back and everything is perfect again.
my brother was poking the fire coals with a huge old chisel , I was horrified so I cleaned it up sharpened it honed and it took me ages,it was an old spear and jackson 2" and the steel was superb my brother just didn't have the same thoughts as I did and never used it , shame
Those Iyoroi are cheap, nasty chisels. Not worth my money. And so much nonsense and completely useless information here. Japanese chisels have a hollow in the back called "ura" for a good reason. The hard cutting layer, aka hagane, is much harder than any Western chisel. A typical Japanese chisel has a hardness of 64HRc or higher whereas a Western Chisel in typically in the 58-60HRc range. If the entire back was flat it would take ages to flatten it. The ura reduces the amount of steel the be worked and this enables you to flatten the back in a reasonable mount of time. Getting the back in shape is a one time thing. When you sharpen a Japanese chisel you always end with polishing the back. This way the ura slowly reduces in size (gets shallower) and this ensures you can maintain a flat of metal (called ito ura) between the edge and the ura. Another benefit of the ura is reduced friction in the cut.
When you do eventually get to the tip of the hollow I would then flatten off the back untill the hollow creeps back down and the flat appears at the top again.
The chisels will be made of tamahagne steel and will be folded, creating a harder centre and softer outer rim that can be made much sharper but also more brittle ( like a katana) then when cooled the softer material warps around the stronger central iron creating the bend you see, if you get a chance watch forging a katana on youtube, it may help to explain it a bit more
Fuck me man, how clueless can you be. A Japanese chisels is made with 2 types of steel. One is the jigane (literally means ground iron) and the other is the hagane. The hagane forms the cutting layer and is forge welded to the jigane. The hagane is NOT made with tamahagane. it's typically made with shirogami 1 or 2 and in some cases with aogami 1 or 2.
@nico76 people would probably be far more receptive of your knowledge on this subject if you didn't speak to them on such a rude manner. Jeez I bet that if you have a wife or significant other they are bloody sick of you.
Your hammer might also serve a dual purpose to 'tap-out' the softer steel from the bevel side towards the back when the hard steel part get's too thin. For plane blades they call thus uradashi - see ua-cam.com/video/4pYi7P1ynw0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=FineWoodworking
Mate you really seem to be happy and content sharpening your chisels , and it was nice to see you so happy , so as a selfless act of kindness on my behalf i would drop my chisels of at yours to be sharpened .
Can we all appreciate what a great bloke robin is . But the intro to this was fucking hilarious 😂
Most chisels absolutely are NOT flat on the back. They may be flat enough for a tradesman to shave something off here or there, but for furniture building and joinery you need them to be dead flat - and they absolutely are not. Therefore, you have to spend considerable time (usually measured in hours) on EACH chisel to lap the back and make it completely flat. That is where the hollow on the back of a japanese chisel comes into play. Because it's hollow it means you don't have to remove nearly the same amount of metal to get the back flat - and therefore it takes much less time to do so. You also touch up the back every single time you sharpen the chisels, so having that hollow there is really just about saving time during the sharpening process after the backs are made to be flat.
P.S. thanks for the time you take with your content. I've learned a lot from watching your videos here and on your own channel!
Robin, the reason for the concave back is because the cutting layer of steel (they're 2 layered) is harder than most western tool steel (much higher carbon content), and the reduced surface area helps to reduce the time taken for lapping the back sides. Japanese White Paper (and Blue Paper) Steel are renowned for their durability, keen edges and edge holding, but they can take a bit more effort to flatten, and sharpen than softer steels.
I use these quite a lot for both fine work and general carpentry and they're equally capable for each. They're traditionally used with a metal mallet rather than a western wooden style and provided the end-ring is properly installed and seated the red oak handles will take a lot of punishment.
I got myself a set from Axminster 15 years ago. Great for hardwood. Less sharpening. The back milling reduces friction, it gets deeper as it goes back to the handle. It needs flattening to bring the bowl shape further back from the edge. Then sharpen it.
The blade actually has two types of steel in them just like the Japanese swords of old.The cutting edge is very hard to hold a sharp edge for longer with the bulk of the blade being malleable so it supports the cutting edge to reduce vibration and prevent chipping of the cutting edge. The harder steel is the part that is dished out and to constantly flatten the back during sharpening would reduce the thickness and the lifespan of the chisel. Not to mention that being hard it takes a lot of work. At college I had a fellow student who was Japanese and had qualified as a carpenter in Japan for many years. He used the hammer you show for actually beating the support bevel when regrinding the chisel in order to flatten the back cutting edge. He was a tremendous craftsman and his work is in many galleries around the word. In the 30 some years I have used Japanese chisels and planes I have never had a serious chip in the blades that couldn't be removed on a course water stone without resorting to mechanical grinding.
From the google:
Oire Nomi chisels are the standard Japanese general purpose bench chisel. ... They come with the standard Japanese hollow grind on the back which keeps the back of the chisel free from the timber. As you flat the back, the hollow moves up the chisel, so you always have a flat back to the edge.Jan 31, 2012
Many thanks for that information.
You're gonna be working on only exotic and spotlessly clean wood with these, Robin - and in that arena, they will enable flawless craftsmanship. Use the good chisels to get you there - then these to finish it. I bet they'll hold an exquisite edge.
as robin said, metal distorts as it get heat treated, in japan good steel was difficult to come by which is why the Japanese chisels are so thick, to be more conservative with the use of their good (high hardness) steel they laminate a hard back onto a soft top, that way your cutting edge holds a good edge but doesn't waste this steel on the upper part of the chisel where it will never be used as part of a cutting edge. the purpose of stamping a hollow into the back is to stop a bump from forming on the back with would make paring cuts for joinery difficult, this was especially important as they never made a mechanical fixing such as a screw or a nail (going back to steel being a rare resource and it didn't want to be wasted) so they used very precise joinery to overcome this. as such a paring cut was a lot more important so that the joints held properly as they weren't assisted with a metal fastener.
hope that helps anyone who was interested, hope even more that is makes sense XD
The hollow in the back is there, because the metal there is much harder than on the front and thus harder to sharpen. With the hollow theres just less material that has to be removed. If you flatten the back from time to time the holllow will "move back" and you will be able to use the hole length of the chisel. Just be careful that it doesnt get to hot while sharpening. Enjoy your japanese Chisels!
Yes. They are made with a thin layer of “hardened steel” laminated on the longest side. The shorter side is normal steel but the cutting edge has a layer of heat treated high carbon steel which allows it to take a very sharp edge but makes it super brittle. Mishandling Japanese chisel can seriously shorten their lives that is why they usually supply a hide wrap to protect them with. Do not treat them like site chisels.
I’ve always kept a set of these in my workshop,they are amazing things,the hollow is so when you flatten the back then your only removing a small amount of metal -also if you flatten the back then you’ll make a flat again on the back edge-there’s a lot of work goes into producing a chisel like that. I’ve read when guns came into japan the samurai sword makers work dropped off so they made chisels and planes instead
I bought my first Japanese chisel in 1976 whilst in Japan studying joinery. They are a laminated, rather like a Japanese sword, although it is not uncommon to find laminated plane irons from wooden planes in the UK. The backs are hollow ground, to facilitate faster flattening. However, quite often you loose registration when paring narrow joints particularly when relying on the back of the Nomi/chisel. To over come this problem they offer chisels with multiple flutes on the back. If you chip the edge it is possible to peen the metal from the back but it is not easy. When sharpening you need to maintain the single bevel, "Time consuming". I observe that the oak handle has been dressed over the ferrule, this indicates a good quality set of chisels. White paper, blue paper, quite honestly nowadays steel is not that expensive to justify wide ranging price differences. They are high maintenance. I admire their craftsmanship, they are not particularly comfortable ,chisel in hand. They are not my preferred choice of chisel.
Yes there is something therapeutic about sharpening chisels, I was taught to be able to shave the hairs off the back of my hand, that was sharp enough! Keep up the good work. cheers
Funnily enough I thought the same when I bought mine.. there's some good videos on UA-cam about it... Basically as you flatten the back of the chisel that hollow moves back so effectively you always have a straight cutting edge..
The chisel is made of two metals, a thin super hard one about RC65 that the back side is made of which includes the tip. The rest is a really soft iron that acts like a shock absorber. When steel is that hard it tends to chip easily so the soft steel absorbs the shock. Looking at the bevel you should see the two steels. The back is so hard it would take a really long time to flatten it so they add the dip or "ura" which reduces the surface area that needs to be ground down. When flattening the back I was taught to take a long piece of wood, about 12-18 inches and lay it on the chisel that's on the stone. Grab the chisel handle and the wood on one side and just the wood on the tip side. Bear down on the tip side and control it with the handle side making sure the flat side remains flat on the stone. Switch the chisel end to end to keep the grinding even or one side may become thinner. I do this on diamond stones as water stones will dip too much with this much pressure. When I switch to water stones I just use my fingers. I do this on western chisels that are made of really hard steel which don't have the dip on the back.
I love this, the tactile relationship between a master and his tools. I really appreciate your videos, they’re informative and well produced. I’d have you doing my extension if you weren’t so bloody far away! Take care.
A really sharp chisel is one of life's pleasures!
Best video ever I just bought a Mac Alister mitre saw and I’m 11 and I love carpentry pls can u reply
I don't think they replied :(
What are you in poland?
I have used Japanese chisels for many years as a Luthier. Your question about the edge getting chipped or worn down to the end of the hollow. It should never happen because what you do if it gets close is grind down the back of the chisel. This is quick because of that hollow and that is actually the reason for the hollow so you do not have to remove loads of metal - just the flat edges at the sides of the hollow. This is a gentle and precise grinding done by hand on a Japanese Water Stone or water wheel. I always grind and hone all my Japanese chisels by hand. Much more accurate.
Hi all, i only use one type of chisel, i might even be a snob when it comes to chisels, i only use JW marples shamrock chisel sheffield england, and the reason for this and i know it doesn't even make a different but i prefer that all my hand tools are british made, so i go and hunt down the second hand and new old stock tools, i would rather use british made hand tools over any other tool purely because those tools there can never be replaced
Where are some good sources for old tools in the UK that you use?
@@Charitza Hey, Ebay and bootsale, but you need to know what you are looking for to find the bargain
"...a gentlemanly way of doing woodwork." I like that.
These ones are especially made for the European market for the builders to add sugar to their tea. 😁
I use my tormek water wheel on my tools.. Fantastic machine.. Once set up you can fly through your chisels /planes in no time..then my diamond sharpening plates for day to day use.
I claim full credit for your new acquisition !!!! The Japanese chisel topic (involving Roger as I recall) first came up during the thread I started about 6+9 hinge spacing on doors a while back - I remember recommending Oire Nomis and Kirschens.All you need now is a set of 3 nice Gyokucho Japanese pull saws (brilliant) and you're good to go. Enjoy :)
the hollow in the back is purely to remove the amount of steel that needs grinding/sharpening/flattening etc. When you eventually get to the hollow, it can be re ground to its original (shorter) state
The hollow grind is there to make flattening the back easier. Every time you grind the blade, (as opposed to honing), after sharpen the bevel, you flatten the back, to do it you put pressure on the front tip very slightly and you shouldn't run in to issues for a long time even of you ding the edge several times.
Regarding the hollow, others have noted that it's much easier to flatten the back. I don't remember who did the video, but they set up their own Japanese chisels which don't have the hollow originally, or had very little hollow. They use a hammer and small anvil ( I want to say specifically designed to create the hollow) to custom set where they want the hollow. That way, they can be more conservative about where and how deep the hollow is set. This person's chisels also had a metal hoop on the top of the handle and they liked to reset that too. Sorry I don't have the reference, but it was a good, thorough explanation of intended setup, maintenance, and use of Japanese chisels.
A B I was hoping someone would mention this. I have read the same a few times over the years and recall mention that care was needed to avoid fracturing or fatigue in the steel when re dishing the hollow. I have a few well used Japanese chisels that need this and haven’t ever gotten around to trying it out.
You hone the back to bring the hollow back as you go along.
Robin your always a pleasure to learn from, keep it up stay blessed...💙👊😎
And as you hone the flat hollowed out back side to sharpen it, the scolloped out edge will also keep the same margin as you remove more material
Oire Nomi means rabbeting chisel .You can pay over 4k for a set of museum quality Damascus steel Oire Nomi 's and even over 1k for a Slick . It would be a shame to use them after paying that lol .
It took me about 5 hours to get 9 chisels and a Slick "Tsuki nomi "worked and polished to mirror finish but boy is it worth it . You would'nt want to do a lot of heavy pounding on the Oire Nomi because of them being so hard which means they can possibly break at the tip . "Tataki Nomi "is the Firmer Chisel which can be used for heavier duty work like beams and pillars.
Oire nomi does NOT mean rabbeting chisel numb skull. And an oirenomi is a tataki nomi. Why the fuck are you people using Japanese chisel when you don't even have a clue about the basics? You amateurs are the reason why are are so few Japanese blacksmiths left who make a proper old school chisel. You dumbasses use them in ways they aren't meant to be used. You chip the edge, complain with the seller (or blacksmith) and you know what happens? The blacksmith reduces the hardness so he doesn't have to deal with complaints from idiots.
@@Nico-bu6bj Literally means rabbeting chisel but its a bench chisel numb skull lol
@@Adrian-AosFotos-Irish Well, I speak and write Japanese so I think I know what it means. 鑿 is "nomi" which translates to chisel. The term "oiire" is made up of 2 characters, namely these " 追入れ". The first is 追 or "oi" which roughly translates to "to chase" or "to follow". The second one is 入れ or "ire" which more or less translates to "insert". The translation would be chase insert chisel. Or as Google translates it to "chase put chisel". It does not and will never mean rabbeting chisel.
@@Nico-bu6bj Good for you buddy ,If you're right you're right and if i'm wrong i'm wrong. You come across as being a bit of an impatient aggressive prick ,very un Japanese . I wouldn't wear your attitude for two seconds face to face . I hope your not a Woodwork teacher lol
Well, guys. I am not sure why this discussion is getting so heated, but let me add my two pence worth. Firstly, I can neither speak nor write in Japanese, I can however use the power of Google, which led me to a number of links that seem to imply that Adrian is correct. Here's one of them on Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_chisel . Now, I am prepared to accept that the Wiki page might be wrong, in which case Nico you might want to let them know. All the best to you both
I worked with an old carpenter who used to sharpen his chisels on an oil stone and strop them by slapping them on the palm of his hand!
Very pleasant to view ... Cheers and happy woodworking!!
Comparisons between Japanese and western chisels are not very useful, especially by those accustomed to abusing the ubiquitous bog standard plastic handled (frankly crap) tools. It should be remembered like western chisels Japanese ones come in a range of size and form, for different tasks. These ori nomi are most akin to a fine butt chisel, like Crown or Ashley Iles. It is the tradition to use a hammer(genno) rather that a mallet, ergo the forged steel ring. They normally come requiring some work before use, driving the ring on and mushrooming the wood some. As some comments observe the "ura" is to aid flattening of the hard steel. Only incompetence will see the edge encroach on the ura, it should recede at at an equivalent rate to the edge, as you hone. You never grind them, nor do you sharpen with a secondary bevel. Polish them up with good quality wet stones to 16,000g or so. If you can be bothered with all the faff they will reward you with sharp durable edges that are a joy to use. If you can't, go back to the pot metal and plastic jobbies.
Great information and thank you for taking the time to comment. We are all learning lots on this subject.
Hi as gav2759 said they require some work to get ship-shape but are very good the hollow as people have said is an aid to flattening the back and in theory reduces friction, but the edge can be restored (re-lengthened) by 'gently tapping the 'bevel' area when the harder steel is eventually worn away! (UA-cam for info, its important you don't tap the hard steel it'll crack!). Finally as other folk have said use them for finer stuff they will chip and crack if you hit metal. Lovely set though. See some (variable quality) of UA-cam 'Suikoushya' videos he's a Japanese joiner who has a lot of videos on sharpening and joinery using nomi. You produce excellent videos, explanations clear and often pointing out the pros and cons of different approaches, Great!
Great video as always. Hope you guys are doing well.
A gennou usually has a flat and a convex side. The convex side is used to hammer nails in flush with the wood without damaging the surrounding surface. Takes some practice
Nice Chinese music intro for the Japanese hand tools lmao 😂
I must be old for my years, only 29 and depending on how much usage i do to my chisels planes ect it is nice to have a Saturday morning to sharpen and clean it all up. Great hand tool work like chiseling an hand planeing is getting lost with all the house bashing rubbish. Robin check out the samurai carpenter his finish is stunning all Japanese stlye. Cheers.
You might like Grandpa Amu on youtube, I think he's genius!
@@superiorbeing95 You two should get a room !...
All I use is Japanese Chisels. The more you flatten the back of these chisels the smaller the hollow gets on the back which means you can keep using it until it is a nub. This is a huge subject in its self and unfortunately, it is not easy to find a good quality Japanese chisel in the UK. Most firms buy these chisels from a large corporate manufacturer so they are machiene made. The best chisels are hand made but are ridiculously priced (e.g £100 - £300 each). Perfect if your a cabinet maker, japanese timber framer etc, but that is about it.
Hey Robin, long time mate, good to see you doing well. Just about to invest in some of these chisels , they look real good. See you soon. Gav
Great video thanks
The hollow is for when you’re flattening the back. If you don’t have the dish a lot more metal needs to be removed.
Exactly, hand use whetstones only to sharpen. They'll last forever. Never use a grindstone. They are much harder steel. I have a Hidari Ichihiro chisel that has been used for about 50 years and perfectly maintained but is only a few centimetres long now. The concave back is maintained if sharpened properly.
The japanese chisels have the "scoop" out the back because they're hollow ground. The idea is there is less material to remove when you flatten the back on the stone when new. These chisels tend to be made from laminated steel and will last longer than traditional hardened and tempered chisels, so the edge being close to the hollow grind doesnt mean they wont last.
When used as a bench, (as opposed to a site) chisel their edge will last a lot longer and regrinding the angle is rarely needed.
A chisel sharpening tutorial would be great. Maybe for those with only the basic kit. Cheers
Slashley gibbins look up Paul Sellers (woodworking masterclasses). He deals with 99% hand tool methods including chisel and saw teeth sharpening.
@@richardeyre481 OK thanks
Also for basic sharpening look up the Scary sharp ( on u tube ) system from Workshop heaven
It’s cupped to reduce friction. The sharpening process ensures as it wears back it stays flat.
i just wanted to say that when you flatening the chisel it will regain new meat underneath, so you can sharpen it alot.
Well I’d say it’s not a site chisel robin..! It’s a finishing chisel for a lovely cosy workshop with carpeted floor and a nice wood burner...
You flatten the back each time you sharpen the chisel. That way the flat at the front edge of the back moves down the chisel at the same rate as the bevel.
Super sharp less power needed
I believe that the cut out on the back it to allow ease of honing the back side of the chisel so u do t spend ages flattening it every time u need to sharpen it of get a nick out
And because u home both sides of the chisel every time u sharpen it revives the size of that dish so u never wear through it
I think the concave is because the Japanese sharpen the chisels on the flat rather than the bevel. So with the concave there is less material to take out when sharpening. They are also made from extra hard steel so are suppose to require sharpening less frequently. I could be wrong but i think the Japanese have a long history of steel fabrication from the Samaria Days and could possibly be the reason for the superior steel. Would love a set of those. they're definitely one for the workshop tho.
No No, it's obviously there for your thumb to rest in when you're doing extra sensitive work and you need to feel what your chisel is doing.
@@lameduck3630 you sound like an experienced woodworker
Hello Robin, thanks for a great video. May I suggest the book Japanese Woodworking tools by Toshio Odate. a real insite into Japanese tools, and the hollow including plane blades.
Chisel manufacturers absolutely do NOT ensure that the backs are dead flat, not even most the high end ones. I have literally never purchased a chisel that was already dead flat
The reason why the back of the chisel ia hollowed out has more to do with reducing sharpening and set up time.
And if you were to chip you would have to flatten the back of the chisel even more to save the edge. By the way you should flatten the back of your chisels. Use some sandpapper on a tablesaw and grind away until the back of the chisel has an even polish or scratch pattern.
Flatten the back on a waterstone first so you have an edge at the top to sharpen.
Dogstar. Always used my forearm. Found it easier 😄
Liked your video. I'm not a carpenter or a joiner but I often wonder why people use a metal hammer with a chisel. I know on site you have to use the tools you have to hand and a wooden mallet is a bit "school woodwork" but surely the dead blow from a mallet transmits more controlled energy to the tool. With a metal hammer you get bounce back and I think a bit less control so your work can suffer.
To most people a chisel is also a crowbar etc. 😁
Japanese Woodworkers never use a honing system like this in the video they always sharpen by hand and you would grind the back of the chisel and much as the bevel to ensure you never run into the issue you mentioned, have a full set of 30 and always do it by hand as they keep an edge so well that I never need to use automated grinder to accomplish a good edge.
Whoop de do !,......
Love them stoner music breaks :)
If I showed you some of my chisels you would need to change the stone on your grinder 😂
If i showed you mine you would need a defibrillator !...
Robin, never sharpen these chisals one the grinding stone, use one sandpaper or wetstones and only sharpen ftom the back. Then just sharpening your secondary bevel on the beveled edge, these types of chisals are more for fine carpentry so keep them safe in your workshop and not on site where the bricky will use them to cut his blocks, 😂
Sharpening them is far different thing it’s a zen experience so when you flatten the edge each time you then flatten the back off usually using water stones which are very messy in my opinion I get the look of the Japanese and how nice they are but really in the real world there a lot of Hassle that I could do without
Great video, did you say you were spraying the doors?
Hopefully this kind of chisel will never be damaged, only loose it's edge, and you obviously get that by the way you only bring them out for special occasions, the hollow on the back allows you to re flatten while removing as little material as possible, a 1000# plus stone should keep these chisels going for years,
Record sharpening systems are amazing but are not for this quality of tool, I'd recommend hand sharpening on a Charnley Forrest stone (classically used for surgical instruments) to keep the best edge.
Great video, hope I have helped you, you have taught me loads,
Love all your videos 👌 just curious what you make of that record power sharpening machine, as I am trying to decide between that or the tormek as big difference in price?
Have a look at the Axminster one, similar to both the Tormek and Record ones.
Get a life instead !...... Buy a Space Hoper !
Its very satisfying seeing a tradesman sharpen his chisels without ridiculous wet stones and gear not needed, the old school carpenters just had a simple oilstone and stropped on canvas bag on smooth side, now in tech colleges they don't teach old school ways which still are better , its 5 times more time lost to sharpen with wet stones " a sales gimmick" a chisel that once you strop , you go back in day and re strop and razor sharp again , my chisel roll is sharp to shave with because old guys ensure passing on skills , I have apprentices who ask me how to get sharp chisels and handsaws and it seems lost in younger teachers today , the easy way .
I can’t see any benefit of hollow grinding a chisel, and if through time it is ground back to the hollow, it will not cut a flat due to the concave effect. Hollow grinding is generally reserved for scissor action cutting blades or a knife where both sides are hollowed in order to obtain a thinner cutting edge, but not for a chisel.
Well the purpose here is same as with the plane. To reduce friction and make the work more easier, but you will get that only if you work with the chisel for longer period of time like whole day. Then it counts every bit of resistance.
These chisels are not really meant for general site work where you may be in danger of hitting a hidden nail or screw, more for bench work (I think)
You need to try a 5k shapton whetstone after the 1k diamond plate and a piece of denim on your strop with chrome oxide.
Try, The cornish little nomi shop, they sell shapton whetstones, japenese handtools and if you want to take it to the next level of sharpness Japanese natural whetstones.
Yes , and you need to try a sence of humer ! .
I,ve fancied a set for some time now though I haven't taken the plunge as I just don't need them for the type of work I do. Now offer me a set of original Sheffield steel marples and il bite your hand off!
Totally of topic, but when you say spray the doors will there be an accompanying video? Just did a few doors with a roller and brush using Sadolin Varnish but i'm not happy with the finish.
If the hollows come too close to the edge, try putting pressure on the first third of the back when you plane this. If that doesn't solve the problem (the closer the plane is to the edge, the better the chisels cuts) you can (carefully) use a technique called "ura-dashi" ( www.youtube.com/watch?v= 0RGfiRghJ7I&t=1s ), but be very careful with narrow chisels - you will easily separate the steel from the iron.
I have my theories on the hollow in the back of the chisel, what I really like is that the question is being asked.
It to mske sharpening easier. Ive used japanese chisles for years now.
They remove the belly when make them ss they know its impossible to mske it dead flat, so better to belly in than out
They are not supposed to be ground out like we do with marples etc, the bi -metal is way harder than the steel we use There’s a two stage sharpening process for them on fine stones
Japanese tools should only be used ceremoniously with the utmost care to the strict rules of handling., and sharpened with a raw herring and salt from Mt. Fuji. Stick to German tools and never apologize for banging on them.
Ask Paul Sellers,he knows.
Paul is a master! Watch every video
Mmmmmm I personally prefer a Indian oil stone , soaked in light oil , I was always taught to use the side of the grinder to sharpen , I honestly believe you get way more control (if you have a standard 6" grinder ) not a slow grinding stone
careful not to blue the chisels , Always fancied a set of Narex chisels but cant get a 25mm one ??? The old Stanley 5002s (blue or black ) used to sharpen a treat
I have to say that I respectfully disagree with using the side of a grind stone. It can weaken them and cause them to explode. Also you have a different surface speed depending on how close you are to the centre of the wheel which would lead to a different surface finish along the width of the bevel. That being said, I'm no chippy I work in engineering so use the grindstone mostly for drills etc and not wood chisels. All the best.
Even the fine India oil stone is way to coarse for japanese chisels, i use shapton and naniwa waterstones
most carpenters do not have the luxury of a slow stone , They will sharpen on a bench grinder , Many will not do fine work , that requires Japanese chisels , Although I respect Robin for his videos and posts , Some of the tools highlighted
are way out of financial reach of the general trades person in the uk , There are many great tradespeople , that do not have Japanese chisels and Mayfell saws .
Most tradesmen are crap so use crap tools. Simple.
@@stevend9960 MOST tradesman???
If you don’t drink 5 hectolitre of beer every weekend you should be able to buy a 20-40 chisel and a stone 😁
@@thulegezelschap5884 Japanese chisels are more of a joiners chisel though.
I would love a set but I am constantly getting chips it them working on old door frames,,plus I like drinking a gazillion tons of beer
How do you rate the Record you are using to the tormek?
Tormek is a great tool.
You grind the back down as you move down the chisel. That's why it gets thicker the further down you go.
I have had mine for many years and when ever the top edge starts to get a bit short I take a bit off the back and everything is perfect again.
Good advice thank you.
@@SkillBuilder The least I can do for the million pieces of good advice you have given me!
ooohhh mate, sometimes you need to "plane" the back(back flat part) on a piece of glass and sand paper like you'd do on the head of the engines
I always test them on my leg.. so if I have shaved legs you know I’ve either sharpened my chisels or I went to work in a skirt
Oh hello 👋 m not on my own 🤣🤣 that was so cheesy
you are not wrong
But what a craftsman and good channel. Keep up the good work. 👍
was the chisel roll from axminster too?
yes it is a suggested purchase
I always thought the shorter chisel was for more control
cabinet makers chisels, not joiners chisels
my brother was poking the fire coals with a huge old chisel , I was horrified so I cleaned it up sharpened it honed and it took me ages,it was an old spear and jackson 2" and the steel was superb my brother just didn't have the same thoughts as I did and never used it , shame
Take a leaf out of Paul Sellers mate.. he will shown a thing or rwo about chisels / sharpening. Lol
Those Iyoroi are cheap, nasty chisels. Not worth my money. And so much nonsense and completely useless information here. Japanese chisels have a hollow in the back called "ura" for a good reason. The hard cutting layer, aka hagane, is much harder than any Western chisel. A typical Japanese chisel has a hardness of 64HRc or higher whereas a Western Chisel in typically in the 58-60HRc range. If the entire back was flat it would take ages to flatten it. The ura reduces the amount of steel the be worked and this enables you to flatten the back in a reasonable mount of time. Getting the back in shape is a one time thing. When you sharpen a Japanese chisel you always end with polishing the back. This way the ura slowly reduces in size (gets shallower) and this ensures you can maintain a flat of metal (called ito ura) between the edge and the ura. Another benefit of the ura is reduced friction in the cut.
When you do eventually get to the tip of the hollow I would then flatten off the back untill the hollow creeps back down and the flat appears at the top again.
The chisels will be made of tamahagne steel and will be folded, creating a harder centre and softer outer rim that can be made much sharper but also more brittle ( like a katana) then when cooled the softer material warps around the stronger central iron creating the bend you see, if you get a chance watch forging a katana on youtube, it may help to explain it a bit more
Fuck me man, how clueless can you be. A Japanese chisels is made with 2 types of steel. One is the jigane (literally means ground iron) and the other is the hagane. The hagane forms the cutting layer and is forge welded to the jigane. The hagane is NOT made with tamahagane. it's typically made with shirogami 1 or 2 and in some cases with aogami 1 or 2.
@nico76 people would probably be far more receptive of your knowledge on this subject if you didn't speak to them on such a rude manner. Jeez I bet that if you have a wife or significant other they are bloody sick of you.
Hollow ground on the back, absolutely not flat
yeah i would like to know about what happens with the Japanese chisels too. Yep, your chisel isn't sharp until you can shave with it.
Your hammer might also serve a dual purpose to 'tap-out' the softer steel from the bevel side towards the back when the hard steel part get's too thin. For plane blades they call thus uradashi - see ua-cam.com/video/4pYi7P1ynw0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=FineWoodworking
The hollow back reduces time flattening the back, working up to 16000
I thought it was something to do with the two different hardness of steels being forged weld together
Never heard of Paul Sellers?
Paul Sellers is excellent. ua-cam.com/video/GN4yr7vp4I4/v-deo.html
Skill Builder genius with wood 👍🏻
Won't be sharpening them on the 9 inch grinder turned upside down hey .................................
Why a record and not a tormek robin