How To Properly Replace BMW N54 Rod Bearings | In-car DIY
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2023
- This video shows how to properly replace the connecting rod bearings with the engine IN-CAR on a BMW N54. Below you will find lists containing all the Parts, Tools, Torque Specs used in this video as well as time-stamps for key job moments. We HIGHLY RECOMMEND watching the entire video rather than skimming through as there is vital information throughout the process. The beginning of the video describes the job and required parts and tools, highlights service information, and describes preliminary tasks. The middle of the video is the rod bearing replacement shown in full on all 6 cylinders. And at the end we overview the entire job, show important markings on engine internals, provide real examples of a spun bearing and the damaged parts associated with it, and talk about break-in after the repair.
If you have any questions regarding this job, ask us in the comments below and we'll happily answer them as soon as possible.
This video contains the information to do this on all N54 cars including:
- 2006-2010 e90/e91/e92/e93 335i/335x/is
- 2007-2010 e60/e61 535i/535xi
- 2007-2010 e82/e88 135i/is
- 2008-2010 e71 X6 (X-Drive35i)
- 2009-2016 e89 z4 (S-Drive35i/is)
There may be slight differences on non-Xdrive vehicles, but most things are the same.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. We are not responsible for any damage to your vehicle.
Welcome to BavhausTV!
**BLACKSTONE OIL REPORT **
www.dropbox.com/s/c6fj5be3jt2...
Key Moments:
- 0:26 Job Introduction
- 8:09 Initial Part Removal
- 12:56 Bearing 1 Removal/Measurement/Installation
- 25:26 Bearing 6 Removal/Measurement/Installation
- 35:18 Bearing 2 Removal/Measurement/Installation
- 40:44 Bearing 5 Removal/Measurement/Installation
- 45:13 Bearing 3 Removal/Measurement/Installation
- 48:56 Bearing 4 Removal/Measurement/Installation
- 54:35 Engine Markings, Damaged Engine Internals, Further Explanation
- 1:00:08 Oil Pump/Strainer/Deflection Plate Installation
- 1:09:27 Closing Statements
Parts List:
- Rod Bearings: King Part # CR222SV (3 boxes)
- Rod Bearing Bolts: BMW Part # 11247589671 (12 bolts)
- Pickup Tube Seal: BMW Part # 11417527092
- Oil Pump Hardware Kit: Part # 11410426427
- Oil Pump Sprocket Bolt: Part # 11417520144
- Oil Pump Module Bolts: Part # 11417549370 (2 bolts)
- X-drive Pickup Tube (Optional) # 11417556028
Tools Required:
(Sizes, "1/4,3/8,1/2" can be changed. Listed is what we used)
- 1/2" Ratchet + 22mm 1/2" Deep Socket (Turning Crankshaft Bolt)
- 3/8 T45 Torx Socket (Removing/Installing Oil Pump Chain Sprocket Bolt)
- Green Plastiguage (Measuring Bearing Clearance)
- Brake Parts Cleaner (Cleaning Bearing Surfaces)
- Notebook/Pens/Marker (Marking Bearings and Taking Notes)
- Flashlights (Visible Workspace)
- Oil catch pan (When Removing Oil Pump/Strainer)
- Motor Oil (Lubricating New Rod Bearing Bolts)
- Assembly Lube (For Installing New Bearings)
- 1/2" or 3/8" Torque Wrench (For Installing Bearing Bolts)
- 3/8 Ratchets/Extensions (For Removing/Installing Hardware)
- E10/E12 Inverted Torx Sockets (For Removing/Installing Rod Bearing Bolts/ Oil Pump/Plate/Strainer)
- Flathead/Prybar (Removing Oil Pump Sprocket From Oil Pump)
- Rags (Maintaining A Clean Workspace)
- Metal Dowel Or Small Allen Wrench (For Locking Chain Sprocket On Pump)
- Gloves (To Keep Your Hands Clean)
- Transverse Engine Support (Hold Engine From Above)
- Transmission Jack (Support Suspended Engine)
Torque Specs:
- Rod Bearing Bolts - 20nm + 70° + 70°
- Oil Pump Bolt (M8x123) - 10nm + 180°
- Oil Pump Bolts (M8x31) - 10nm + 90°
- Oil Sprocket Bolt - 20nm + 45°
- Oil Pump Chain Module Bolts - 4nm + 90°
- Deflector Plate Bolts - 4nm + 90°
- Oil Pickup Tube - 4nm + 90°
Enjoy! -Bavhaus - Авто та транспорт
These guys are beasts! Huge thanks to Mike and the team for helping me with my n54! Very knowledgeable guys, these guys who what they’re doing. Highly trust and highly recommend them. Thanks guys, I appreciate you!
Thanks for the feedback brotha! Happy to help 🍻
Thank you! Adding this to my list of maintenance items to tackle this summer while I’m playing mechanic in the driveway. E90 w/195,000
Absolutely would recommend this at your milage. Just take it easy! I normally plan to tackle most of the bottom end stuff at once. Waterpump and thermostat, turbo stuff, rod bearings, engine mounts, and oil pan gasket while I’m down there/as needed. Glad you enjoyed the video! -Mike
Great video, straight out for the book. If I ever get that m3 I’m gonna be back here for sure!
Thanks for the positive feedback! Hopefully we’ll have an m3 video up for you by then! -Mike
This is a great video. Very methodical and detailed.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. -Mike
Thanks so much for this my car is getting this done now e60 535i
Glad to help! Feel free to reach out if you need help along the way. -Mike
Amazing video with showing the procedure and not cutting anything and with explaining everything you do. Don’t wanna think worst of the worst but What would the procedure be if when measuring with plasti guage it wasn’t within spec? Also what’s the reason for measuring again with the new bearings if you already measured the old bearings and the clearance was good?Ordered all the parts to do them using the standard size king bearings.
Great video, doing this on my 08 335xi now with turbos. Thanks for the heads up about the two bolts for the front oil pump lmao once again another ecs tuning order for bolts. I swear this is the biggest pain about BMW is the damn aluminum tty bolts. It adds up real quick, crap you don't think about. Went with acl bearings since King was out of stock at the time. These cars are actually pretty easy to work on, gotta love German engineering. Just fyi it's hard to keep up with you at times, you talk fast and obviously have done this many times. Just some friendly advice, Peace!
Thanks for the feedback! The video was pretty long so we opted to make quick cuts and keep it rolling rather than drag it on forever. For the parts that are fast and hard to understand just go to the video settings and change the speed to .75% Hope this helps! -Mike
This video guided me the whole way lol. Did you have to make sure cylinder 1 was at TDC after the install or does it not matter?
Glad we were able to help! And engine position doesn’t matter. It’ll just run normally -Mike
what a fantastic video ! thanks a bunch for taking the time... one question I do have is when your replacing all the bolts { except con rod bolts } do you install dry ? or should you use a little oil on the threads ? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the feedback! All the bolts should be installed clean and dry aside from the conrod bolts. Dry torque specs are far different from wet torque specs so you run the risk of over/under torquing as well as hydrolocking the bolt/thread on any part that should be installed dry and is incorrectly installed lubricated.
Nice video! Does reusing the old rod bolt during the plastigauge process get you an accurate measurement? I thought once the bolt is stretched it's not going to be the same again. Maybe a good reason to use ARP bolts?
Thanks for watching! The BMW service manual says to reuse the old bolts for measuring so I’d say it’s safe to assume the amount of stretch on those bolts is accounted for within the specifications. I’d say the arp bolts aren’t necessary. The redesigned bolts have been significantly upgraded. -Mike
I believe the bolt is not safe to be reused in the engine, because it may break (as it was stretched) however once you tighten it to the same torque, it should be the same from the clearance perspective.... ie. in my view, once it's torqued down and it didn't break yet - it should create the same force like the new one.... just my thought process
hey thanks for ur time to make these instructions, if engine just started knocking sound is there any time left to still preform this procedure or once the sound is there this cannot be done? assuming the is no visible metal specks in oil/ oil filter.? there is no chance what would u recommend? ie rebuild/ purchase used replacement engine, or any other alternatives? lastly im assuming u cant supplement the engine brace with a 2X4? lol jk were pretty ghetto over here
If the engine just started knocking and it was caught fast you may be able to get away with repairing it. Only way to tell is to get in there and check things out. Rebuild is expensive most people just get a junkyard engine. I’d recommend servicing a spare motor completely while it’s out of the car. And haha don’t use a 2x4 you can get some engine braces from harbor freight pretty cheap
Thank you for posting this video, it a big help. I found the shattered connecting rods to be interesting. I have a question. Is this engine similar to the N52 used in 2009 328i Xdrive models?
I'm currently working on replacing my rod bearings. I bought this car with 85k from my neighbor who said the valve cover gasket was leaking. I checked the level through the oil level monitor, it was ok I drove the car down the road and parked it till the leak was repaired. Once repaired and oil changed, I test drove it only to hear a rod knock at 3500rpms. In watching this video, it was mentioned that the customer had a leaking cyl5 injector. I'm wondering if that contributed to the failure of my bearing. When I start the car it kinda seems like the first revolution of the crankshaft is slow then it cranks normally. Almost like hydro or vapor lock in one cylinder. I didn't know at the time I dropped the oil, so I don't remember if it smelled like fuel was mixing in.
I'm trying to figure out if the parts lists would be the same (I'm sure the part numbers are different)?
Also, if you know of any BMW techs that have a video on UA-cam for testing for injector leaks, didn't see anything on your channel?
Thanks for any help!
Glad the video was useful to you! The n54 and the n52 are extremely similar in design but fuel is actually not going to be the culprit on the n52 as it is port injected and not direct injection. The failure was more than likely due to something else, maybe contaminated oil, lack of oil change, driven too hard on a cold engine, etc. The replacement of bearings on the n52 is extremely similar and this guide should be close enough to get the job done on the n52 as there should be less tasks on the checklist rather than more. Hope this helps! -Mike
Yep gotta love BMW and the 15k mile oil change interval. Or the famous lifetime fluid haha. I can only imagine how many people drove them far longer than 15k. My N54 looked like varnish inside, just like that one. @@bavhaustv9795
Great job where are you located
Thanks! We’re in Ct. -Mike
Hi ,I heard you saying that king bearings are all same not as oem ones rod bearing are different than rod bearing cup ones so if i want to change my rod bearing to king or acl should not worry about 2 different sizes
The tolerances are so small I think King decided to just scrap the measurement and average them out. You should be fine with one bearing size across all caps and rods. Just make sure to measure! -Mike
Yo my guy ! So did you use a lift ? I’m assuming this job is significantly harder without one ?
Yeah the car was on a lift during this video. You can probably get it done on ramps it’ll just be a PITA -Mike
Hi So you use pasti gauge on old bearing or on new one?? for checking tolerance??
I check the tolerances on both the old and new bearings with plastigage
If a rod bearing spins - it it always game over, or is it possible to replace bearings if engine was only run for a minute or two after? Just occurred on wife's car - I'm tempted to open it up to take a look before giving up on the car...
I’ve taken apart quite a few engines where the rod bearing failure didn’t seem to cause any issues to the majority of the engine. Normally you’d want to check the oil filter to see how much metal was collected, drain the oil, check the valve train from above, check the oil pickup etc etc. Best case senecio you would need to machine the crankshaft, replace the single connecting rod, and all main/rod bearings. Engine and or trans will have to be removed, at this point I’d recommend purchasing a replacement engine. -Mike
@@bavhaustv9795so basically if you notice an issue, it's already too late, with the recommendation being to source another engine?
@@kurtm54 there may be some situational exceptions but more often then not the solution is to replace the engine. -Mike
If you are doing the work yourself, and it's a budget car you can open it up and take a look. If the crank journal isn't pooched you might get away with a shade tree type repair. I have used fine grit sandpaper and a shoelace to smooth out a journal. But this was on a beater mud truck, and it worked just fine. It is certainly a risk, but depending on circumstances may pay off. A takeout will probably be the safe bet.@@kurtm54
At what millage should i replace them? My 335IS is on 97k. Is it time?
We’ve seen bearings go at all ranges of milage. Not something that can be really be recommended by milage. Basically the only way to know what you have is to replace them or wait and see if they spin. -Mike
How much would be labour not including parts to do it at garag. I'm working a lot on cars but to take off the whole frame and front suspension is way too much for my skillset
@@miko4759 normally rod bearings are priced around 3k for the service by a reputable shop
Thank you
@@miko4759 no problem! Thanks for your interest in our channel. Enjoy that IS!
Is removing the oil pump the same process on n54 and n55?
It’s a little different but similar enough -Mike
@@bavhaustv9795 do you know the difference between the two? Can you lock it with a pin the same way as you showed here or do you need the special locking tool? Thanks!
@@Use2FACTAUTH if you can wait a few days I’ll film a video. -Mike
@@bavhaustv9795 okay thanks!
I did the job today and my oil pump sprocket skipped a tooth on the chain when I was trying to retighten the pump, have you ever had this happen, should I be worried before first start?
would a looser tolerance be better
Looser tolerance thicker oil. Tighter tolerance thinner oil.
Effin Eh Boys... Fabbo Video! My buddy just did his, and he was getting sick of my texts asking him questions, then I found you and it was like a light came on and your methodical approach is textbook.... Thanks. I Am now certain of the procedure band will do mine thanks to You
Now the one thing he mentioned is he had a high mlileage car, so did the oil test, it came back "DO IT". But when he did the job, all the bearings were fine and he wasn't happy. Did the job in his driveway on jackstands by himself.. on super rough concrete to boot!
So do you ever come across this happening? or even if you do, is it better done and maybe save your ass down the road?
It is not a small amount of time or money.
I always say if you’re there and you don’t know it was done, it’s worth doing. As long as it was done right! Thanks for the feedback! -Mike