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how is the ista+ set up, what else beside the software and a laptop does one need?

i tried pulling the fuse and it started on me but i did add 0.2 of a quart in the housing will i be ok i let it run to operating temps and nothing happen?

dope video same thing happed to me

Would you recommend going this ngk 1 step route on a BM3 stage 1 93, charge pipe, and M exhaust setup on 18’ N55…80k on the OG coils, 30k on current dealer plugs. Its the wife’s daily so i still need it livable for her

This is a great video, you are a true mechanic by properly diagnosing the vehicle keep up that type of work. That's what separates you from the rest. I watched the series and couldn't figure out how did you quickly decide that it was the Camshaft or Fuel injector... was it because compression was fairly good at 120? I'm a little dumbfounded on how 120 came up if the valve isn't opening all the way there should be a better PSI reading or at least the same as the other cylinder since air has less escape paths.. My engine cylinder 3 is reading 65 PSI would you jump to the same conclusion? I have inspected the cylinder head and they look sealed properly along with the valves

Great job! Why you didn't change the mechatronic unit oil since you were already there?

Great job ❤❤❤

You don’t have to remove anything in the engine bay just have to be good at working in areas you can’t really see. The perfect size extension socket and swivel is all you need. Same with the MHD engine bay flex fuel kit goes right back there as well did it all by feel. The way it’s designed you can pull the filter out without any oil dripping from it which is a plus. Start with loosening the filter and draining the oil after it’s done draining you should be good to go. If you are pushing the car hard I’d recommend 0w40 or 5w40 as well just depends on your power level and time of year winter or summer I’m at around 800 crank hp.

Hi there - new to this coding lark - having issues with a crank no start on 2006 E90 325xi - INPA shows fault when running "EWS start value comparison" getting a API Result text error #19 - No response from control unit - Continue with script process? Y/N? Hit Y and get error box with exclamation titled "Wechelcode_sync_DME" (CAS start value comparison runs just fine) - Question - would you know if this an INPA api error or EWS sys error? Many thx

Great video with the entire process, too bad you didn't mention the colors indicated on the crankshaft concerning the bearings. And thank you for this moment which relieved me 35:45

Nice video. I’m getting transmission temperature warning on my idrive S65 DCT. Di u think it’s low on fluid? Could low fluid cause over heat? TIA

Why do you fill an extra litre?

I had to check my intercooler if I founded the oil that I added all week 😅

what scan tool are yall using?

Had a belt fail and get sucked in trough the main seal. Followed your steps and so far I’m 100 miles in. I went with king performance. 130k and the rod bearings were pretty worn. Thanks 🙏🏽

Can I just fill the oil down the oil filter hole?

Thank you for these videos!! Could you please tell what kind of socket/ bit have used at 12:50 to remove the HPFP?

Question? Why would you unscrew the 02 sensor before disconnecting it? Wire twisting is never good lol

I changed my bmw 2006 325xi n52 transfer case actuator already and still got the 4x4! And break and dsc lights what you think went wrong I’ve also replaced the drivetrain and front driver side axel

Very good video, Im subscribing

does the m3 take 1L more than z4 35i considering its the same tranny?

What should a repair like this usually cost if done by a mechanic?

Thank you!

I don't think any suspension bolts need to come out for this job. Just undo the six bolts on the diff flange (move the joint upwards first to get it out of the "cup") then support the driveshaft off to the side somewhere. No need to undo suspension stuff and mess up the alignment. I don't think the driveshaft needs to come out of the hub either? And air hammer isn't the best tool to remove driveshaft from hub, it can damage the wheel bearing as there's no preload on it.

Very helpful, quality video! I used a seal puller instead of a typical pry bar, doing the driver side on jack stands with the exhaust hanging limiting room. Thanks!

Thanks, great Video, great mechanic, great tips. Excellent, you have skills

Hello, very nice video, description in detail, I like it very much, thank you for sharing! I have one detail to discuss with you. As I know the full oil amount is 8,5 l (DCT+pipes+cooler). When you exchanged the oil why dont you drained the cooler oil out as well? Thanks, Richard

that's a great trick with the direction of the fluid to the drain plug. I had a really big drain pan and just left a couple screws in at one end and removed the rest. Then loosened the remaining screws and pulled the pan down at the other end allowing the majority of the fluid to drain cleanly.

I was easily able to get to my pressure filter without removing the O2 sensor but that sure makes a lot more room.

Oh thank you soo much for telling me the vanos sprockets dont need to be at a specific angle or timing. I was freaking mid install. 🙇🙇🙇

Keep the good work up!

thank you for the great video - and many others. For the pinion nut I think you forgot to bend out the lock washer into the two half circle spaces made for that. For the little drain hole on the output shaft bearing covers, it is interesting that it is not at the bottom, but that is how it seems to be - on right side of diff. its at "10 o'clock" and on left side its at "2 o'clock". The drain hole position can be noticed from the outside of the bearing cover in the way that the cast indentation between each of the 8 bolt holes; where the drain hole is located the indentation is smaller.

Do you have dimensions for the alignment tool?

Super detailed, should have more upvotes. Here, have one. On another note, not sure you needed to replace the solenoids. A clean could have been enough, given the seal was broken obviously.

Great job where are you located

How do I calibrate with a foxwell scanner ?

In this case should i just clean the intercooler or do something else with the turbo??

Amazing video with showing the procedure and not cutting anything and with explaining everything you do. Don’t wanna think worst of the worst but What would the procedure be if when measuring with plasti guage it wasn’t within spec? Also what’s the reason for measuring again with the new bearings if you already measured the old bearings and the clearance was good?Ordered all the parts to do them using the standard size king bearings.

Great detail in the video, thanks for listing parts used/part numbers and showing the ISTA procedure.

What fuses/relays to pull to disable the fuel system? Do i need to do that? I have a crec model.

Logic follows you do the same thing after an oil change, right?

Excuse me, is it ZF DCT transmission? Sorry for the noob question.

😂 are you serious man The Intercooler shouldn’t be having oil inside or that’s mean you have a bad turbo problem The Intercooler supposed to be cooling off the air 😂

On my 2015 A7 they came out with the rail.... Should i be worried on reassembly? On both sides! I have put 80k since buying car with no fueling issues. Currently chasing a Cyl 5 missfire....

What scan tool are you using ? I replaced the actuator but i cannot calibrate it.

I changed the sensor on rear left and now the reading is funny. It jumps up and down and is not the same as other 3. Any ideas?

I will try and tackle this job soon with the engine installed and would greatly appreciate any tips/links/resources. I have not found much online regarding accomplishing this, let alone anything related to the issues I am having. Long story short, I thought oil was leaking from the VC, and when I went to replace the gasket, I found the boost solenoid and vacuum lines covered in oil. I did a little research, and someone noted that replacing the auxiliary check valve on the vacuum pump solved their issues after replacing a multitude of other things. The car has almost 190k on the dash, so I think it's about time the pump be replaced anyway, and I hope it is the Hail Mary I need. Any help is of utmost appreciated; from my research, I've gathered all I need to do is remove the intake, intake manifold, fan/shroud, tensioner, and HPFP. then carry on with the procedure in the video correct? I know some pull the alternator for more room, and understand I will not be able to see much without pulling the front end. My questions are (if I am not missing anything thus far) 1. Is draining fluids and removal of the alternator required? 2. There is a rod that comes with the BMW tool kit that is inserted through the sprocket to keep tension; I'd like to think the way you did it is all that is needed unless both are required. 3. do you ha[pen to have all the torque values or know where to find them? 4. I have the N55b30. Are there any differences in the procedure? My guess is they're exactly the same. Just trying to cover all the bases. Thank you in advance!

So if one wheel sensor is having big air gap between axle ring, or if sensor defective, it will show on the dashboard that is 4x4 and is not working?

This video guided me the whole way lol. Did you have to make sure cylinder 1 was at TDC after the install or does it not matter?

Great video, preparing to do this soon on my 335is. Couldnt find someone talking about the fill procedure but your vid was great.