This video saved me a ton of time! One of the others said it was either the heat element or thermostat, said nothing about thermostat. I would have pulled the whole unit out and tested those things and been stumped. Thanks for the save!
Thank you for saving us the expense of a new dishwasher. It is an easy DIY repair, and now we can again look at taking a little vacation with the money saved.
To check that repair, I amp out the hot wire at the electrical connection underneath right side. I have seen other reasons why a heating element would not come on those GE dishwashers. The thermal over load underneath the tub and a control board malfunction. In the last 20 years of servicing appliances, I have only replaced one heating element. I have seen them have issues with the heater not coming on with an empty rinse aid as well.
Dang! ,👍👍👍You ‘Fix It John’ are the best! If not one of the best demo- Tutorial-Explainer I have seen on UA-cam. I am your new subscriber and I Thank You for your time and sharing👍
Thanks for the video. My float switch was full of gunk and cleaning it out didn't fix the no heat issue. Question on the schematics. Those show the therm on pins 3 and 5. You procedure worked for me and my sensor is reading at about 1k at room temp, so its gonna get replaced anyway. Just wondering about the schematic vs your instructions on which pin to measure. Thanks!
@@fixitjohn well either way I got a new part from a local supplier and the dishwasher is back to working order. New park measured perfectly at 11k. Old was under 1k.
I looked at your channel you got lots of videos but I don’t have time to figure out how you did the paper towel with the screw thing so I’m gonna wing it and hopefully have success I too am doing my own float valve and I’m 65 years old as well
@john, thanks for this video. I have a similar issue. Just ordered the replacement switch and hopefully it will resolve the issue. Question for you: my dishwasher is leaking from the door strike latch. I put silicon around it and it stopped leaking. This started after i replaced the door bottom gasket for which i had to unscrew the bottom door hinges to pull the door up slightly. I reseated the door and put the hinge screws back. Somehow it messed up the alignment of the door striker latch. Water enters from there and leaks from under the door handle on the front. I isolated the issue to the door striker latch and covered the edges with silicon and that stopped the leak. The door alignment seems to look correct though. The silicone works but i am wondering how to properly fix the issue. Any ideas?
I don't know other than make sure that your gasket is properly in place. That same dishwasher that I have leaked at the bottom. So I just moved the gasket back into place and that stopped the leak.
Great video! 1st wasnt getting water, replaced flood switch Now have water, but not hot water and no steam dry Any suggestions as to what to do next? thanks
You may want to pull the dishwasher out and check the resistance on the heating element. I am not sure on what the resistance should be but if it’s a open loop then you will know it is bad. Let me know what it ends up being because it will help me and my viewers. Thanks for watching.
I have a 2016 kitchenaid dishwasher and it hasnt been getting as hot as it used to. SO I tested the element and it came out at 12.8 ohms so OK, Then I tested the High limit thermostat. AT room temperature I got continuety therefore a closed circuit, then I placed it on a stove burner on medium and the curcuit opened with a click and lost continuity so therefore the thermostat seems to be working. Then I looked at the float switch mechanism and the switch seems to be clicking on and off so it looks good. I preceded to remove the turbidity sensor. It was extremely dirty. Cleaned it all up and reinstalled it. Not sure how to test that. Removed filter and cleened that too. Cleaned out the spray bars while I was at it too. After all of that I still have the low heating issue and now Im down to checking the control panel. Apparently its possible that the heater relay might need to be changed?? Anyways this has been really frustrating that I cant seem to find an easy fix so far. WHen I ran a Diag at first, I was getting a 7-1 error code and all the items that can cause that error seemed to testing out ok. Then I stumbled on a video where the guy said that on some models, an empty rince compartment can cause a 7-1 error code. I was like HUH?!?!? So I tried it and the error code dissapeared so I ran a normal cycle with Dry, High Temp and Rince and after close to 4 hours I still got no better tham warm temps. Totally stumped. Gonna check the control board next.
@@MrMartinpierucci I am sure that it is somewhere in the drain area. It may look different than mine. If you look up the model number and then the parts diagram you will find the location of the part that you are looking for. Good luck!
I have a GE dishwasher that is not cleaning dishes correctly and also isnt dissolving my detergent pods all the way. I thought i was having an issue with the lower sprayer not spraying right but now im wondering if its the float valve.
Hi Elizabeth, it is possible that your float is not working properly. The first thing I would check is to see if your filter is dirty. You have too take the filter off to get to the float. Clean your filter first and start the machine once you hear it drain off the water and it starts to refill with water open the door up before it fills up with water and pour a gallon of vinegar and let it run. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Let me know if that works.
John, I don't believe you fried your float switch with baking soda. I took mine out and there was a buildup of white crusties which I attribute to hard water deposits. Thank you for the great video.
Here is a link to the Technical Service Guide: After clicking on the link go to pdf 31-9233 and look at pages 1, 7, 8, 88, 91 drive.google.com/drive/folder... MODEL NUMBER; for my dishwasher is GDF520PGD2BB you can find your model number sequence below. MODEL NUMBERS: Starting with these letters or numbers. 1. BRANDS- H=Hotpoint G=GE P=Profile C=Cafe Z=Monogram L=Lowes D Adora S=Sears A=Americana 2. CONFIGURATION- D - Built-in P=Portable 3. CONTROL APPEARANCE- F=Front Control T=Top Control R= Top Control with Recessed Handle 4. Wash system- 3=Low 5=Mid 7=High 8=Monogram 5. Feature Pack- 0 to 99 6. Interior Material- H=Hybrid (Plastic Tub/ SS Inner Door) - P=Plastic Tub/Inner Door S=Stainless Tub/Inner Door 7. Exterior Finish- G=Generic Color (Gloss) I= Panel Ready M=Metallic - P=Pro S=Stainless 8. Model Year- A Letter In This Slot determines The Model Year. 9. Engineering Digit- 0 to 9 10. Color- WW= White CC=Bisque BB=Black II=Panel Ready SA=Silver Ready SS=Stainless SA=Slate
Just to let you know, your video saved me time and aggravation. My GE Profile series dishwasher (PDT760SSFSS) is back working. Had no heat , replaced DISHWASHER FLOOD SWITCH ASSEMBLY. PN WD21X10519. This unit does NOT a traditional heating element. The heating is a function of DISHWASHER VARIABLE SPEED MOTOR AND PUMP KIT . Thank you for work on these youtube vids. And of course you saved me $$$$. I am a retired GE engineer and I used to fix MRI's Cat scanner and PET scanners. I enjoyed getting "back" into it, but my hands are shot. So hopefully my repairs needed will be limited.
So a few things here. 1. Its "kilohms". 2. You can test the heater circuit without removing the dishwasher but you will most likely have to access the control board. 3. You said pins 5 and 6 but the pdf you gave out says pins 6 and 7. 4. The pdf says if the sensor fails open or short the control will go to the longest algorith, meaning it will still try to heat. Yours must not have been heating because of it still having a reading.
Thank You!! This 65 yr old granny was able to fix the float valve all by myself!
Great job!
This video saved me a ton of time! One of the others said it was either the heat element or thermostat, said nothing about thermostat. I would have pulled the whole unit out and tested those things and been stumped. Thanks for the save!
Great to hear!
Thank you for saving us the expense of a new dishwasher. It is an easy DIY repair, and now we can again look at taking a little vacation with the money saved.
Glad it was helpful!
That Google Drive you have set up is the best thing ever! Thank you, bro!
Ok
Awesome video man! Saved me $100’s on a new dish washer!
That is great. Keep the money in your own pocket.
To check that repair, I amp out the hot wire at the electrical connection underneath right side. I have seen other reasons why a heating element would not come on those GE dishwashers. The thermal over load underneath the tub and a control board malfunction. In the last 20 years of servicing appliances, I have only replaced one heating element. I have seen them have issues with the heater not coming on with an empty rinse aid as well.
Thanks for the tips. I am sure it will help others. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the great video! Got my washer back up and running!
Fantastic! Thanks for watching.
Dang! ,👍👍👍You ‘Fix It John’ are the best! If not one of the best demo- Tutorial-Explainer I have seen on UA-cam. I am your new subscriber and I Thank You for your time and sharing👍
Thanks, that means a lot.
Thank you so much!!!! You helped me save $500 repair fee!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for the video. My float switch was full of gunk and cleaning it out didn't fix the no heat issue. Question on the schematics. Those show the therm on pins 3 and 5. You procedure worked for me and my sensor is reading at about 1k at room temp, so its gonna get replaced anyway. Just wondering about the schematic vs your instructions on which pin to measure. Thanks!
Hi William, thanks for your question. I think that I found that information reading a thread on a forum somewhere. Thanks for watching. Fix It John.
@@fixitjohn well either way I got a new part from a local supplier and the dishwasher is back to working order. New park measured perfectly at 11k. Old was under 1k.
@@WilliamJSisti Good I am glad it is working again.
THANK YOU! IT WORKED !! 👍🏻👍🏻🤜🏻🤛🏻
Welcome 👍thanks for watching.
I looked at your channel you got lots of videos but I don’t have time to figure out how you did the paper towel with the screw thing so I’m gonna wing it and hopefully have success I too am doing my own float valve and I’m 65 years old as well
Way to go, Valarie. I like to hear that my video helped someone.
Thanks for watching.
@john, thanks for this video. I have a similar issue. Just ordered the replacement switch and hopefully it will resolve the issue.
Question for you: my dishwasher is leaking from the door strike latch. I put silicon around it and it stopped leaking. This started after i replaced the door bottom gasket for which i had to unscrew the bottom door hinges to pull the door up slightly. I reseated the door and put the hinge screws back. Somehow it messed up the alignment of the door striker latch. Water enters from there and leaks from under the door handle on the front. I isolated the issue to the door striker latch and covered the edges with silicon and that stopped the leak. The door alignment seems to look correct though. The silicone works but i am wondering how to properly fix the issue. Any ideas?
I don't know other than make sure that your gasket is properly in place. That same dishwasher that I have leaked at the bottom. So I just moved the gasket back into place and that stopped the leak.
Great video!
1st wasnt getting water, replaced flood switch
Now have water, but not hot water and no steam dry
Any suggestions as to what to do next?
thanks
You may want to pull the dishwasher out and check the resistance on the heating element. I am not sure on what the resistance should be but if it’s a open loop then you will know it is bad. Let me know what it ends up being because it will help me and my viewers. Thanks for watching.
Was it getting hot before if so you may have pulled a wire apart. I know they’re all twisted up and tight.
I have a 2016 kitchenaid dishwasher and it hasnt been getting as hot as it used to. SO I tested the element and it came out at 12.8 ohms so OK, Then I tested the High limit thermostat. AT room temperature I got continuety therefore a closed circuit, then I placed it on a stove burner on medium and the curcuit opened with a click and lost continuity so therefore the thermostat seems to be working. Then I looked at the float switch mechanism and the switch seems to be clicking on and off so it looks good. I preceded to remove the turbidity sensor. It was extremely dirty. Cleaned it all up and reinstalled it. Not sure how to test that. Removed filter and cleened that too. Cleaned out the spray bars while I was at it too. After all of that I still have the low heating issue and now Im down to checking the control panel. Apparently its possible that the heater relay might need to be changed??
Anyways this has been really frustrating that I cant seem to find an easy fix so far. WHen I ran a Diag at first, I was getting a 7-1 error code and all the items that can cause that error seemed to testing out ok. Then I stumbled on a video where the guy said that on some models, an empty rince compartment can cause a 7-1 error code. I was like HUH?!?!? So I tried it and the error code dissapeared so I ran a normal cycle with Dry, High Temp and Rince and after close to 4 hours I still got no better tham warm temps. Totally stumped. Gonna check the control board next.
Good luck, Let me know if you figure it out.
my dishwasher is just 2 years old and the part is not where you show it. I think it's in the side of the drain. Any advise is appreciated.
@@MrMartinpierucci I am sure that it is somewhere in the drain area. It may look different than mine. If you look up the model number and then the parts diagram you will find the location of the part that you are looking for. Good luck!
Trying to find your link to the Tech Data Sheet & don’t see it. Can you provide it for me? Thank you.
It may not be available anymore. I need to pull that out of the description. I just looked and it is still there.
I have a GE dishwasher that is not cleaning dishes correctly and also isnt dissolving my detergent pods all the way. I thought i was having an issue with the lower sprayer not spraying right but now im wondering if its the float valve.
Hi Elizabeth, it is possible that your float is not working properly. The first thing I would check is to see if your filter is dirty. You have too take the filter off to get to the float. Clean your filter first and start the machine once you hear it drain off the water and it starts to refill with water open the door up before it fills up with water and pour a gallon of vinegar and let it run. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Let me know if that works.
Do you have a Technical Service pdf for CDT706p2
No
John, I don't believe you fried your float switch with baking soda. I took mine out and there was a buildup of white crusties which I attribute to hard water deposits. Thank you for the great video.
Maybe a little bit of both. We do have crusty water. Thanks for watching
If you have the model # GDF645SGN3WW dishwasher that switch is not there. Figures.....
What’s going on with the switch.
Great help John, What is the link to the tech service bulletin ??
Here is a link to the Technical Service Guide: After clicking on the link go to pdf 31-9233 and look at pages 1, 7, 8, 88, 91
drive.google.com/drive/folder... MODEL NUMBER; for my dishwasher is GDF520PGD2BB you can find your model number sequence below.
MODEL NUMBERS: Starting with these letters or numbers.
1. BRANDS- H=Hotpoint G=GE P=Profile C=Cafe Z=Monogram L=Lowes D Adora S=Sears A=Americana
2. CONFIGURATION- D - Built-in P=Portable
3. CONTROL APPEARANCE- F=Front Control T=Top Control R= Top Control with Recessed Handle
4. Wash system- 3=Low 5=Mid 7=High 8=Monogram
5. Feature Pack- 0 to 99
6. Interior Material- H=Hybrid (Plastic Tub/ SS Inner Door) - P=Plastic Tub/Inner Door S=Stainless Tub/Inner Door
7. Exterior Finish- G=Generic Color (Gloss) I= Panel Ready M=Metallic - P=Pro S=Stainless
8. Model Year- A Letter In This Slot determines The Model Year.
9. Engineering Digit- 0 to 9
10. Color- WW= White CC=Bisque BB=Black II=Panel Ready SA=Silver Ready SS=Stainless SA=Slate
Thanks for watching.
Just to let you know, your video saved me time and aggravation. My GE Profile series dishwasher (PDT760SSFSS) is back working. Had no heat , replaced DISHWASHER FLOOD SWITCH ASSEMBLY. PN WD21X10519. This unit does NOT a traditional heating element. The heating is a function of DISHWASHER VARIABLE SPEED MOTOR AND PUMP KIT . Thank you for work on these youtube vids. And of course you saved me $$$$. I am a retired GE engineer and I used to fix MRI's Cat scanner and PET scanners. I enjoyed getting "back" into it, but my hands are shot. So hopefully my repairs needed will be limited.
@@eddipanfilo3688 Hi Ed, I am glad I could help. Thanks
Saved me! Thank you sir!
You're welcome!
Thanks man!
Happy to help!
You are fanny. I enjoyed your videos. Happy new year. Thanks
Thanks for watching.
Hey I set my meter to 20k oms and I am getting 0.95.
What's this mean?
Sounds like you have a bad element.
I tried to go to your link and the link is no good.
Hi Ed, the link will work if you click on it from the description. It is about halfway down. Let me know if it still won’t work. Hope this helps
So a few things here.
1. Its "kilohms".
2. You can test the heater circuit without removing the dishwasher but you will most likely have to access the control board.
3. You said pins 5 and 6 but the pdf you gave out says pins 6 and 7.
4. The pdf says if the sensor fails open or short the control will go to the longest algorith, meaning it will still try to heat. Yours must not have been heating because of it still having a reading.
Thanks
Warranty people have been out twice still no hot water....I bet a million bucks they didn't check this ! Ugh
I think they want there service call money and just tell you it can’t be fixed.
"... hit the thumbs-down button twice". Clever guy.
Hi Greg, Thanks for watching.