GE Dishwasher Not Heating, Drying or Cleaning? Diagnose and Repair it Yourself!
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2024
- Dishwasher not doing its job? Are you noticing that the water isn’t getting hot, or the dishes come out soaking wet and, well, not clean? There are a few reasons your water isn’t getting hot. Check out the video to see how to diagnose and repair it yourself while saving a couple hundred dollars on a service call!
This video was made specifically for a GE Dishwasher, model GDF620HGJ0BB but I’m pretty confident that the diagnosis methods will work on most dishwashers.
Tools you’ll need
Multimeter amzn.to/3DI4WTV
Screwdriver
Adjustable Wrench
Parts you “may” need
Flood Switch (this was my issue) amzn.to/3HYN4qt
Heating element amzn.to/3HWqrTx
Pro Tips from the Comments Section!
1) Shut off the water supply and disconnect the water supply from under the Dishwasher (here's a video that shows how to do that: • How To Remove A Dishwa... . Thanks @jjsmnow for that tip!
2) Just because your thermal cut off didn't trip doesn't mean there's not an open circuit, use your ohm meter set at the lowest setting on ohms and you should read 0 ohms. If your meter has a beeper sound it will steadily beep. Thanks @mikescarano752 for that tip!
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Chapters
00:00 How to diagnose and repair a dishwasher that doesn’t heat up, dry or clean
02:32 How to remove a dishwasher
03:00 How to test and replace a dishwasher heating element
04:22 How to check the thermal cut off switch on a dishwasher
04:57 How to test and replace the flood or float switch on a dishwasher
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#dishwasher #homerepair #diy - Навчання та стиль
Thank you for such a detailed video, you saved me a lot of money 🙏
You’re very welcome! Glad it helped!
Thank you from Wales, UK
I think the logic of the float switch is to make sure that water is counter acting the element enough to keep it within safe operation. If there is not enough water that balancing of extreme temperatures will not happen.
THANK YOU! Mine wasn't heating and I watched a bunch of videos. I was confident I would know how to at least test the heating element, but, I wasn't 100% sure where to go next if that wasn't the issue. Turns out, my heating element was indeed fine and it was the flood switch. Even after cleaning it out, which improved the resistance, it still wasn't enough and I opted for a new part. I went with actual GE part and it was more expensive but worth it for that peace of mind. I just have completed my first cycle with my washer getting hot and cleaning things again. Your video helped lead me to the flood switch and identify that as the issue. THANK YOU!
You’re welcome!! Glad you were able to do it yourself! Woo!!
Thank yo so much! I've done so much on our dishwasher from replacing hoses etc. Then all of sudden the water wasn't "heating up." Found your video and did all the steps, and it was th flood switch! Save us from buying another dishwasher!!!
Oh great glad you found the video helpful!!
The reason why the element is connected to a float switch is to make sure the element is submerged or else you'll cook it. Same as boiling the electric kettle empty.
@9:21 i think the float switch also has a temperature sensor which controls the heating element.
Thanks for taking time to do this. As fate would have it my problem was the float switch.
Glad to help!!
Thank You!
Thank you so very much. This video was Incredibly helpful! 🎉
Oh good! Glad to help!
Float switch contains a thermistor used as a temp sensor and that signal is sent to a circuit board.
It begins at 1:48 minutes :)
When the water fills inside the dishwasher the float rises and completes or closes the switch allowing electricity to flow to the heating element
Ahh. Thanks!
This is incorrect! The float switch is closed without any water in the tub. The float switch is wired in series to the water inlet valve which is fed from the main control board with a voltage of 13.5VDC. When the water starts to come inside the tub, a 60 second timer inside the microcontroller is started. Once this timer expires, the main control board removes the 13.5VDC from the water inlet valve. The float switch is still in a closed condition. The float switch will only open such as when a drain pump doesn't remove the water and on the next water fill cycle the water level continues to rise. This is why it's called a flood switch.
The thermistor is a resistor that varies with temperature. The thermistor is fed 5VDC through a fixed resistor value inside the main control board. The voltage dropped across this fixed resistor is fed to an analog to digital converter which is inside the microcontroller. I think I'll do a video on this circuitry to fully explain its operation and how to diagnose this system. Great video in showing your honesty and helping other folks out there. Have a great New Year!
Keep up the good work!
Thank you!!
Thank you this helped alot
Awesome!
Thanks. This did the trick!
Nice!!
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video, I’ve watched several today, and no one else showed how to test the old part- I really appreciate the time you took for this detailed video, curious if you can tell me where you found the information to know which pins to test and what the values should be? I am a maintenance supervisor for an apartment community and I always want to test parts instead of just replacing them when possible, definitely going to subscribe to your channel, have a great day 😎
Thanks for the comment and glad you found this helpful!! Appreciate the subscribe.
Very helpful video you made, I just have a question: I don't want to pull the entire dishwasher if it is not necessary, so I pulled my float switch, cleaned up and checked with the multimeter. Initially showed 0,89 or around that number and I was very kind of happy that float switch was the issue, but after shaking it well and getting it cleaned with grease remover now it is reading around 13,5. I tested (acting as if it is in the dishwasher being exposed to the water temperature) by inserting into hot water numbers started dropping and putted into refrigerator to see if number comes back up so it did. Do you think or others who has some knowledge about it my rigorous cleaning did the job or initial reading (0.89) was incorrect and float switch is fine and need to check heating element? So making it short can dirt build up cause for it to malfunction?
Thank you in advance to any response.
When you do the temp checks are you hitting the heating element with the gauge or the water temp in the bottom.?
Hi! I was testing the temp of the water in the basin, it was supposed to get in excess of 130 degrees but it wasn't getting even close to that.
What size were the bolts holding in the float?
Oh wowie I honestly don’t know. They weren’t that big. Sorry can’t help on that one.
I ordered a float with online from Amazon but when received it the pins seemed slightly bigger even though description says it was compatible. Can you provide the link of the float switch that you purchased? Thanks
Hi! This is the one I purchased. amzn.to/3HYN4qt looks like it’s only available through third party sellers though. This one has the same part number and can be ordered from Amazon it looks like. Although I can’t vouch for that one. amzn.to/41NKko3 hope that helps!
Thanks I will purchase them and hope it works!@@MADEbyAP
You do not always have to disconnect the drain hose or the power supply if they have enough slack.
Good tip thanks for sharing!
So - check the float switch first, possibly save yourself pulling out and disconnecting the washer at all.
Totally could.
how to check that?
Maybe I missed it ,but you did not shut off and disconnet the water supply fill hose?
If U did not U shoud edit that back in before some viewer breaks the plastic fill hose connection when they try to pul it out and floods his house..
Ps I aways use a shop vac to suck the water out of the supply hose hose after shuting it off and to take the water out of the drain. Less towels to use.
So apparently I live dangerously as I did NOT turn off the water supply. Just turned off the breaker. I’ll have to see if there’s a way to add a disclaimer to the video. Thanks for painting that out. Yikes.
@@MADEbyAP You did okay as you do not need to turn off the water supply to replace the flood switch. In fact, you do not have to remove the dishwasher to replace the flood switch. It's a good idea to turn off the electrical supply when changing the flood switch.
What might the issue be if the water doesn't heat up, then it heats up one time then stops again.
Hrm. Not entirely sure. It could be a sign that one of the things I covered is about to go, ie the heating element or the switch. Maybe rub the diagnostics like I illustrated and see if anything jumps out?
@@MADEbyAP ok thanks. A neighbor is getting rid of a similar model so I grabbed it and tried to fix THAT one but no luck. (They said it was leaking. It didn’t leak for me but then it stopped with error code E25. We checked everything. It went away. Now it just flashes on and off and it’s got rinse aid. I’m thinking it could be an electronic malfunction)
My Zanussi does not have its heating element exposed like in the video 😢
Oh no! Yeah this is specific to the GE one. I’ve seen a few comments where the heating element isn’t exposed in other brands. Sorry I can’t help!
and if it reads 40?
After you changed it? Did you check the other items as well?
@@MADEbyAP thank you for the reply! yes sir it is a brand new heating element and it tests 40 ohms. There is also a brand new high temperature thermostat. Brand new motor and pump. Still will not get hot. Took apart the controller and there is no visible indication of faults.
I am going through the checklists and came upon your video which was very helpful. If you have any suggestions I am all ears.. thought maybe I had some wires crossed going from the element to the high temp sensor but swapping how they connect did nothing. Blue/white to one side, black and red to other. Both connections going to the high temp sensor are red and black however.. my model does not have a float switch. The float is separate from the filter.
Ah sorry for the delay! Was out of town last week and YT does a terrible job of notifying me of comments! This is an interesting one and I think beyond my knowledge (I’m just a DIYer not a pro installer). Really curious what your solution ends up being! Sorry I can’t help on this one!
Liked and subbed. Culprit was the float switch coming in at .55. Thanks!
Those crazy float switches! Glad this helped!
The float switch is included because if it was submerged it could, the element, electrify metal parts of the dishwasher. Remember water and electricity don't mix.
Not correct actually.
Everyone else on the planet has a float switch on their GE easily accessible. I open up the screen and find nothing in there except water. No float switch. 😖
Whaattt?? Yeah that's interesting! My dishwasher repair skills aren't advanced enough to help out on this one. Good luck and may the force be with you.
Thanks for the entertainment. Oh by the way just because the thermal overload did not trip doesn't mean it didn't have an open circuit. Just a appliance technicians thought '
Thanks for this info! Didn't realize that. Does that happen a lot? How would one identify if that's the culprit?
Just use your ohm meter set at the lowest setting on ohms an you should read 0 ohms.
If your meter has a beeper sound it will steadly beep
Thank you!
Why not use a straw to drink the water out, especially if you’re thirsty. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
That’s not a bad idea…. Or you can use it in the cookies you’ll make
@@JamesHannonAuthor don’t encourage this.
That’s the best idea ever. Want to be my tester?
@@MADEbyAP I think I’ll pass…. There’s prob milk involved - all yours to test
Get on with it, stop waffling
Who doesn’t like a waffle once in awhile?
To be honest This video has TOO mush BS non essential talk. So frustrating!
Sorry you didn’t find this helpful. Thanks for the feedback!