For everyone who has the same problem I had, where the toaster turns on as soon as it's plugged in, here's what I did to fix it. -Remove the black Lighter/Darker knob to expose the flathead screw. -Plug in the toaster without any bread inserted. -With the toaster on, use a flathead screwdriver to turn the exposed screw counter-clockwise. Turn it until the toaster clicks and turns off. -Using something non-conductive, press the bread lever in the "One Slice" slot down. The toaster should click and turn on, then shortly after, click and turn off. -Now, grab a few slices of bread, and insert one into the "One Slice" slot to test if the toaster is working correctly. If it still won't stop toasting, turn the screw counter-clockwise until it clicks off and try the previous steps again. -With a slice inside toasting, use trial and error and gently adjust the screw with the screwdriver to find your desired middle ground of toast-ness. -Once found, pop the knob back on the screw all the way, and you should be good to go. I hope this helps someone. I was unable to find a direct answer to this issue, and had to figure it out myself. This comment section was the only place where I found people with the same problem.
Thanks for the info ! I've got a T-20B for $2 at a yard sale.It wasn't working,so I took a chance and replaced the power cord with a 3 prong with the ground to the chassis. It's been working good now for the last 3 yrs. I read the history behind Sunbeam and the chief design engineer was an interesting guy.He wanted his stuff to last and well, my toaster is proof. Good toasting to you and thanks again for the valuable info. Skip J. Titusville,Florida
Thanks for the refresher, it helped! I just fixed up a T-40, and had a little trouble with it at first, seemed like it wasn't working. Found out that when all the way over to LIGHT, the toaster wouldn't fire up. I don't know if that's an issue or not, but when I had it set right for what I consider lightly toasted at the LIGHT setting, at the halfway point, it would almost make charcoal. In the end I settled for adjusting it to make nice, medium brown toast in the middle and called it good!
Found a $5 T-20 at a yard sale 9 years ago, had no idea how nostalgic they make people feel. I cleaned it inside and out, polished the chrome and sold it on ebay for $50 buy it now! I was sold too! Eventually, I realized that even $85 was too cheap for a buy-it now on a radiant control Sunbeam. The last T-20 I sold went for $124, I just let everyone bid. BUT that was a long while ago and ebay isn't what it was, plus I haven't found a T-20 since that last one sold, T-35 and T-40's, no T-20's
Great info!! The T-20 I have from 1951 burned up toast. I had to first adjust the rack and then remove the lighter/darker knob and turn it counterclockwise till finally I had the knob "centered." correctly. THan K YOU!!!! What's your opinion on the original cloth cords?? My wife thinks they are unsafe, I think they are fine.
Well, first off; see if it comes back up or not. And then if it does, does it just start over again? If so. Unplug and check the trigger in the one slot. Is it setting positively? If not (probably) tighten the screw in the bottom under the crumb tray till it does set positively. Then try again. Contact me for further issues. It'll probably work just fine with a little adjustment.
I've recently found one of these at a local flea market and I replaced the cord on it (it had the original cloth cord on it because the one I found was an original 1950 T-20A Sunbeam Automatic Toaster) anyways I have no idea what the working order of the toaster was before I replaced the cord as I didn't bother to plug it in because the original cord was so brittle that I was afraid that the cord would go up in smoke if I tried plugging it in. Anyways when I went to replace the cord I removed the "screw" for the toast color adjustment so I could get the bottom cover off and anyways when I did that I'm afraid I might have screwed up the adjustments on the toaster or something as once I put the toaster back together the together and plugged it in to test it the toaster would go engage itself without having any bread or anything in it, and then disengage itself after about 3-5 seconds, and it would repeat this process over and over again until I put in a piece of toast which then it would lower the bread down into the toaster and then it would just burn the toast and still keep toasting, until I unplugged and then it would disengage the mechanism and pop the toaster back up. I had figured out that part of the toaster's burnt toast issue was because of the toaster's thermostat setting (the dark and light knob) was way off so I readjusted that so that now it goes down and up on its own again without burning the toast. but I still have an issue with the toaster wanting to activate itself without any bread in it still, and I'm not sure why its doing that. Any ideas of how I could fix that issue?
I just cleaned up a T-48. On that model, darker=counter- clockwise, and the screw is a hex head. Also, one should be aware that something (bread, ideally) needs to fill the slot for this to be accurately set. Hence the "radiant control". I was trying it with an empty slot, and it shuts off way sooner than it should without bread in there.
only the t20 has hex. it shut off because there is no barrier between the heat winding and the bimetal spring that shuts it off. I kind of use the pressure on the rack for the proper tension on the rack. Rack has to stay up when second piece of bread hits. Probably could get a gram gauge to set but gave men away. Those toasters kind of went ballistic with price latey. Did you take the rack out and cleaned it too? Never clean the bimetal heat spring ass. or take it apart.
I was just talking about the self lowering toasters with the hex, Got interested in the t9 and bought a couple just to see how they work, pretty cool has a setting to keep the toast warm. Have not got a chance to figure them out but download all the info I could get on the net and ready when I get a chance
@@grc53atbland Pricing jump definitely from a UA-cam channel doing a long video on the clever mechanism & longevity of the build. I was watching eBay too & got a t20 for $50 which is a deal. Your knob pull adjustment is just what I needed as at the lowest setting the bread would cook very dark & just start to smoke. But now I can get a normal toasting. Thanks!
I have one of these and we don't keep it plugged in because, unless I just don't know how to really operate it, when you plug it in with no toast in it the rack goes down and the heating elements heat up. Why does this happen? I'm scared to leave it plugged in because I am worried it will just go down on it's own and burn the house down! :-( Please help Mr. Fix it Man!
You mean the screw on the side, is that the one with the allen wrench, I have some downstairs to look at if you need a hand. tried to answer yesterday but could not get to your reply,sorry. You burning the toast or not dark enough.
www.jitterbuzz.com/indtoa.html You sparked my interest and may buy a couple to see how they work site is the manual scroll down to the t9 If not the cord which probably not would be hard to find parts. I have many parts for t20 and all the toaster that operate like it. If you know how to use a mulimeter should be easy to find the problem. Gary
Bi metal strip,no way you can buy them now. It sucks I know but they went out of business in the middle 90's. That is the main part that goes out and no replacement. Just get the toaster? I know what you are going through. I was thinking of different ways to make it work but kind of just gave up. I loose interest in the toasters form time to time . Probably have bought about 60 from ebay and right now people are paying big bucks for them. I just buy the t20 and a and b. Starting with the t 20c they put rivets on the side panels. From there they kept making it cheaper and cheaper. More rivets and then weld on the joints the wires go too. Instead of the screws. Best thing for you to do is buy a t 20- a-b -or c that the bake lite is broken but a working toaster on ebay or where ever and take that part out. Normal cost may be a total 30 or 40. Might even get it for less because shipping is high. The toaster may only cost you 5 or 10 bucks.Gary.
I just got a t35, and I'm having an issue: When plugged in, the toaster automatically activates without having bread in it. Also, it does not shut itself off, and will continue toasting the bread until it is carbon, and even then, it will do its best to continue burning what was once bread. What can I do to fix this?
Sounds like the bimetal spring is bad or stuck. More likely it is bad. That is the only part that goes bad and does that . You could pull off the light darker knob and try to adjust it back and forth and maybe shake it upside down to see if any crumbs fall out. Can not buy one of those these days. If you take it apart and bend the side down a little unless you take the rivets off, you can see the bimetal spring and push it back and forth , it is suppose to lock in either direction . You could sell it on ebay they are going for a higher price since for about a year now.
Hi My T- 35 won't go down or trigger to go down and heat up ! Also tho if I turn it to darker the mechanism won't go down but it will heat up till Christmas any help would be good 😊 thx
Hi I've got a Sunbeam radiant heat toaster - 1960's model and I need to replace the electric cord on it - its the old no ground type plug & I dont feel that it's safe. Can you please guide me to where I can get a new cord? I have tried Sunbeam directly - they are discontinued and they wont help with a source. I REALLY do need a new cord on this. Believe it or not - I took another Sunbeam to the dump for the same reason. Had 2 - one was my moms and one was mine. Same issue - cord replcmt
My TA J model starts as soon as the power is on. I have adjusted the secondary set screw under the RH handle- no change. The screw under the crumb tray seems to turn with the round collar. The collar turning within the cross bar. This doesn't seem correct as nothing moves when the screw is rotated. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I have a T-35 that burns everything except for on the lowest setting. Tried removing the knob, but it won't come off as easily as it appears to in this video. Is there something else I have to loosen first? Don't want to force it and risk breaking it.
You have to use a small screwdriver ,that is what I use and do it slow. Sometimes hard to get it in between the area because no gap ,If you break it I will send you one. Gary
@@grc67atbland Thank you, that did the trick! Works like a champ, now. Where do you get replacement knobs, by the way? I don't need one now, but just in case I ever do and can't reach you.
I have cleaned over 50 of these type of toaster ,taken all apart cleaned each part and then put together bought over 70 on ebay before the price went up. Stopped buying about 2 years ago . Gave some parts to Tim lives in London Ohio who does what I did but he sells them . I never sold one of my toaster just give them to people I know and for weddiing and 50 years married. I still have many parts but gave most of the good one to Tim from Ohio.Only have about 20 left and since I'm 76 think I have enough till it is over and see my maker . Tim sold a t20 B FOR 910 bucks not sure about the bidding but who cares. Enjoy the day and take care. @@olive8604
I need to replace the center heating element wire. Can you tell me what kind of wire I need. Nichrome 80 or 60 and what gauge. I tired Nichrome 80 20 gauge and it melted within 30 seconds. Thanks....
I have not mess with these for a long time , I just put 5 videos because I thought people needed some guidance on how to fix these toasters they are so cool. I still have some extra parts because of trying to fix or rebend the bimetal spring and others with problems, , tried to clean it big mistake, away send me your address and picture of what you need and I will send it to you , I know I have center heating element email grc53j@gmail.com
More than likely the bimetal spring is metal fatigue and there is no getting one unless you buy another toaster on ebay and take the thermostat out and replace it. But there is a small chance crumb is stuck and maybe turning it upside down and shaking it hard will loosen it. Have you had the toaster long and it just started doing it? .
Gary Carson no I found 8 of them heaped into a box ready for the garbage outside someone’s house. So I have no history with them.. where’s the spring so I can see if it’s fatigued in half?
You just found a gold mine and don't know it. Any of them work ? I have 5 videos pretty much explaining just about everything. Were you at? The spring is in this video and the thermostat is the whole assemble . When you put the bread in the one side has a lever which pushes the bimetal spring one way and it heats the bottom has another spring and when it starts getting hot it bends and the bread goes down. When the bimeatal springs gets hot enough it bends the other way and turnds the heat off. Wen the heat is off the other spring gets cool bends back to normal and the toast comes up. After all that heating the spring just can not take it anymore and don't work. Toasters that do that to me are broken but people paid about 50 bucks for them on ebay. Ones that work are selling for about 250- 350 but I seen on sell for 910 bucks. They cost about 18-20 dollars to send in the mail if you do not pack it good the bakelite will break. You can not buy a spring anywhere. Looks like you got work to do ,need any help let me know ,you will have to jump in there and take it apart . Watch out there are sharp edges and you will cut ypurself if not careful, I have many wounds. Plus you can sell individual parts on ebay too.
What can be done for a radiant toaster that looks pretty new inside/out, but is not lowering the bread much, maybe an inchand then starts coming right back up again. I sure would appreciate some suggestions. Thanks
First thing you can do is have it unpaged get a long wooden spoon or something you can push the rack down with and see if it goes down ,should have some pressure against you. If you shake it does it rattle? Commom problem would be a screw fell out of the mechanism that lowers the rack or something is wedged in it. Lucky you toaster bi metal strip is working right . Because your bread is not blocking the strip and it will do that when nothing is in there or does not go down al the way . You can hold it upside down and push the wooden spoon on the rack too. Would be a easy for for me , let me know how it goes.
![Sunbeam Radiant Control Toaster - How to Impress Your Friends [with an Antique Toaster]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/iYBLlah_kGo/mqdefault.jpg)
For everyone who has the same problem I had, where the toaster turns on as soon as it's plugged in, here's what I did to fix it.
-Remove the black Lighter/Darker knob to expose the flathead screw.
-Plug in the toaster without any bread inserted.
-With the toaster on, use a flathead screwdriver to turn the exposed screw counter-clockwise. Turn it until the toaster clicks and turns off.
-Using something non-conductive, press the bread lever in the "One Slice" slot down. The toaster should click and turn on, then shortly after, click and turn off.
-Now, grab a few slices of bread, and insert one into the "One Slice" slot to test if the toaster is working correctly. If it still won't stop toasting, turn the screw counter-clockwise until it clicks off and try the previous steps again.
-With a slice inside toasting, use trial and error and gently adjust the screw with the screwdriver to find your desired middle ground of toast-ness.
-Once found, pop the knob back on the screw all the way, and you should be good to go.
I hope this helps someone. I was unable to find a direct answer to this issue, and had to figure it out myself. This comment section was the only place where I found people with the same problem.
David Something yes! That’s my problem thanks for sharing
Thanks for this! I've been having trying to find a fix for this issue for a bit, gonna try it as soon as I get back home. Cheers!
Thanks for the info ! I've got a T-20B for $2 at a yard sale.It wasn't working,so I took a chance and replaced the power cord with a 3 prong with the ground to the chassis. It's been
working good now for the last 3 yrs.
I read the history behind Sunbeam and the chief design engineer was an interesting guy.He wanted his stuff to last and well, my toaster is proof. Good toasting to you and thanks again for the valuable info. Skip J. Titusville,Florida
Thanks, David. For those of us just trying to fix the Lighter/Darker adjustment, your comments were perfect!!
It's basically impossible to find which way you turn the screw to make it darker/lighter. Clockwise is darker! Thank God for this video!
Thanks for the refresher, it helped! I just fixed up a T-40, and had a little trouble with it at first, seemed like it wasn't working. Found out that when all the way over to LIGHT, the toaster wouldn't fire up. I don't know if that's an issue or not, but when I had it set right for what I consider lightly toasted at the LIGHT setting, at the halfway point, it would almost make charcoal. In the end I settled for adjusting it to make nice, medium brown toast in the middle and called it good!
Just what I needed 2:39 to 3:00. Good for another 60 years now! Thank you
Found a $5 T-20 at a yard sale 9 years ago, had no idea how nostalgic they make people feel. I cleaned it inside and out, polished the chrome and sold it on ebay for $50 buy it now! I was sold too! Eventually, I realized that even $85 was too cheap for a buy-it now on a radiant control Sunbeam. The last T-20 I sold went for $124, I just let everyone bid. BUT that was a long while ago and ebay isn't what it was, plus I haven't found a T-20 since that last one sold, T-35 and T-40's, no T-20's
Thank you! The part about how to remove the knob and reposition it is exactly what I needed to know to get my toaster working properly.
Glad I could help, think I may have bought one from you on ,you name sounds familiar
Great video! A lot of people can use this info!
Great info!! The T-20 I have from 1951 burned up toast. I had to first adjust the rack and then remove the lighter/darker knob and turn it counterclockwise till finally I had the knob "centered." correctly. THan
K YOU!!!!
What's your opinion on the original cloth cords?? My wife thinks they are unsafe, I think they are fine.
Well, first off; see if it comes back up or not. And then if it does, does it just start over again?
If so. Unplug and check the trigger in the one slot. Is it setting positively? If not (probably) tighten the screw in the bottom under the crumb tray till it does set positively. Then try again.
Contact me for further issues. It'll probably work just fine with a little adjustment.
I've recently found one of these at a local flea market and I replaced the cord on it (it had the original cloth cord on it because the one I found was an original 1950 T-20A Sunbeam Automatic Toaster) anyways I have no idea what the working order of the toaster was before I replaced the cord as I didn't bother to plug it in because the original cord was so brittle that I was afraid that the cord would go up in smoke if I tried plugging it in. Anyways when I went to replace the cord I removed the "screw" for the toast color adjustment so I could get the bottom cover off and anyways when I did that I'm afraid I might have screwed up the adjustments on the toaster or something as once I put the toaster back together the together and plugged it in to test it the toaster would go engage itself without having any bread or anything in it, and then disengage itself after about 3-5 seconds, and it would repeat this process over and over again until I put in a piece of toast which then it would lower the bread down into the toaster and then it would just burn the toast and still keep toasting, until I unplugged and then it would disengage the mechanism and pop the toaster back up. I had figured out that part of the toaster's burnt toast issue was because of the toaster's thermostat setting (the dark and light knob) was way off so I readjusted that so that now it goes down and up on its own again without burning the toast. but I still have an issue with the toaster wanting to activate itself without any bread in it still, and I'm not sure why its doing that. Any ideas of how I could fix that issue?
I just cleaned up a T-48. On that model, darker=counter- clockwise, and the screw is a hex head. Also, one should be aware that something (bread, ideally) needs to fill the slot for this to be accurately set. Hence the "radiant control". I was trying it with an empty slot, and it shuts off way sooner than it should without bread in there.
only the t20 has hex. it shut off because there is no barrier between the heat winding and the bimetal spring that shuts it off. I kind of use the pressure on the rack for the proper tension on the rack. Rack has to stay up when second piece of bread hits. Probably could get a gram gauge to set but gave men away. Those toasters kind of went ballistic with price latey. Did you take the rack out and cleaned it too? Never clean the bimetal heat spring ass. or take it apart.
I was just talking about the self lowering toasters with the hex, Got interested in the t9 and bought a couple just to see how they work, pretty cool has a setting to keep the toast warm. Have not got a chance to figure them out but download all the info I could get on the net and ready when I get a chance
@@grc53atbland Pricing jump definitely from a UA-cam channel doing a long video on the clever mechanism & longevity of the build. I was watching eBay too & got a t20 for $50 which is a deal. Your knob pull adjustment is just what I needed as at the lowest setting the bread would cook very dark & just start to smoke. But now I can get a normal toasting. Thanks!
Glad I could help , that was just what I was trying to do with these you tube videos
I have one of these and we don't keep it plugged in because, unless I just don't know how to really operate it, when you plug it in with no toast in it the rack goes down and the heating elements heat up. Why does this happen? I'm scared to leave it plugged in because I am worried it will just go down on it's own and burn the house down! :-(
Please help Mr. Fix it Man!
i'm working on a '59 t40-1 already gone though 2 generations. I just having a little hard time with the little screw vs the side-slide.
You mean the screw on the side, is that the one with the allen wrench, I have some downstairs to look at if you need a hand. tried to answer yesterday but could not get to your reply,sorry. You burning the toast or not dark enough.
I have a Sunbeam T-9 no power now. Worked fine years. Great toaster. Any advice ever work on one?
www.jitterbuzz.com/indtoa.html
You sparked my interest and may buy a couple to see how they work
site is the manual scroll down to the t9
If not the cord which probably not would be hard to find parts. I have many parts for t20 and all the toaster that operate like it. If you know how to use a mulimeter should be easy to find the problem. Gary
Where are you? do you do repairs for a fee?
I LOVE my toaster- but it needs something- keeps burning the toast!!
garyatbland@gmail.com ,it is easier for me to communicate
Where can I get a new thermostat? Turned my T 20 C lightness knob all then way light and still burn the toast.
Bi metal strip,no way you can buy them now. It sucks I know but they went out of business in the middle 90's. That is the main part that goes out and no replacement. Just get the toaster? I know what you are going through. I was thinking of different ways to make it work but kind of just gave up. I loose interest in the toasters form time to time . Probably have bought about 60 from ebay and right now people are paying big bucks for them. I just buy the t20 and a and b. Starting with the t 20c they put rivets on the side panels. From there they kept making it cheaper and cheaper. More rivets and then weld on the joints the wires go too. Instead of the screws. Best thing for you to do is buy a t 20- a-b -or c that the bake lite is broken but a working toaster on ebay or where ever and take that part out. Normal cost may be a total 30 or 40. Might even get it for less because shipping is high. The toaster may only cost you 5 or 10 bucks.Gary.
You could try to make one. Old thermostats with mercury in them use a bimetallic strip wound in a coil.
I just got a t35, and I'm having an issue: When plugged in, the toaster automatically activates without having bread in it. Also, it does not shut itself off, and will continue toasting the bread until it is carbon, and even then, it will do its best to continue burning what was once bread. What can I do to fix this?
Sounds like the bimetal spring is bad or stuck. More likely it is bad. That is the only part that goes bad and does that . You could pull off the light darker knob and try to adjust it back and forth and maybe shake it upside down to see if any crumbs fall out. Can not buy one of those these days. If you take it apart and bend the side down a little unless you take the rivets off, you can see the bimetal spring and push it back and forth , it is suppose to lock in either direction . You could sell it on ebay they are going for a higher price since for about a year now.
Dylan Sandler I have this problem. Did you fix it?
Hi
My T- 35 won't go down or trigger to go down and heat up !
Also tho if I turn it to darker the mechanism won't go down but it will heat up till Christmas any help would be good 😊 thx
Hi I've got a Sunbeam radiant heat toaster - 1960's model and I need to replace the electric cord on it - its the old no ground type plug & I dont feel that it's safe. Can you please guide me to where I can get a new cord? I have tried Sunbeam directly - they are discontinued and they wont help with a source. I REALLY do need a new cord on this. Believe it or not - I took another Sunbeam to the dump for the same reason. Had 2 - one was my moms and one was mine. Same issue - cord replcmt
My TA J model starts as soon as the power is on. I have adjusted the secondary set screw under the RH handle- no change. The screw under the crumb tray seems to turn with the round collar. The collar turning within the cross bar. This doesn't seem correct as nothing moves when the screw is rotated. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Glad I could hep Clifton
Hi Folks my Sunbeam Radiant Control Toaster turns on as soon as I plug it in, regardless of whether or not there is bread in it, any suggestions?
I have a T-35 that burns everything except for on the lowest setting. Tried removing the knob, but it won't come off as easily as it appears to in this video. Is there something else I have to loosen first? Don't want to force it and risk breaking it.
You have to use a small screwdriver ,that is what I use and do it slow. Sometimes hard to get it in between the area because no gap ,If you break it I will send you one. Gary
@@grc67atbland Thank you, that did the trick! Works like a champ, now. Where do you get replacement knobs, by the way? I don't need one now, but just in case I ever do and can't reach you.
I have cleaned over 50 of these type of toaster ,taken all apart cleaned each part and then put together bought over 70 on ebay before the price went up. Stopped buying about 2 years ago . Gave some parts to Tim lives in London Ohio who does what I did but he sells them . I never sold one of my toaster just give them to people I know and for weddiing and 50 years married. I still have many parts but gave most of the good one to Tim from Ohio.Only have about 20 left and since I'm 76 think I have enough till it is over and see my maker . Tim sold a t20 B FOR 910 bucks not sure about the bidding but who cares. Enjoy the day and take care. @@olive8604
I need to replace the center heating element wire. Can you tell me what kind of wire I need. Nichrome 80 or 60 and what gauge. I tired Nichrome 80 20 gauge and it melted within 30 seconds. Thanks....
I have not mess with these for a long time , I just put 5 videos because I thought people needed some guidance on how to fix these toasters they are so cool. I still have some extra parts because of trying to fix or rebend the bimetal spring and others with problems, , tried to clean it big mistake, away send me your address and picture of what you need and I will send it to you , I know I have center heating element email grc53j@gmail.com
Hi Gary,
Hi mine goes down (without bread) and stays down and just keeps down red hot.
Any tips?
Cheers from Charlie Australia
More than likely the bimetal spring is metal fatigue and there is no getting one unless you buy another toaster on ebay and take the thermostat out and replace it. But there is a small chance crumb is stuck and maybe turning it upside down and shaking it hard will loosen it. Have you had the toaster long and it just started doing it? .
Gary Carson no I found 8 of them heaped into a box ready for the garbage outside someone’s house. So I have no history with them.. where’s the spring so I can see if it’s fatigued in half?
You just found a gold mine and don't know it. Any of them work ? I have 5 videos pretty much explaining just about everything. Were you at? The spring is in this video and the thermostat is the whole assemble . When you put the bread in the one side has a lever which pushes the bimetal spring one way and it heats the bottom has another spring and when it starts getting hot it bends and the bread goes down. When the bimeatal springs gets hot enough it bends the other way and turnds the heat off. Wen the heat is off the other spring gets cool bends back to normal and the toast comes up. After all that heating the spring just can not take it anymore and don't work. Toasters that do that to me are broken but people paid about 50 bucks for them on ebay. Ones that work are selling for about 250- 350 but I seen on sell for 910 bucks. They cost about 18-20 dollars to send in the mail if you do not pack it good the bakelite will break. You can not buy a spring anywhere. Looks like you got work to do ,need any help let me know ,you will have to jump in there and take it apart . Watch out there are sharp edges and you will cut ypurself if not careful, I have many wounds. Plus you can sell individual parts on ebay too.
forgot to tell you that if you have some that don't work when plugged in more than likely the cord is bad . Do you have a ohm meter ?
What can be done for a radiant toaster that looks pretty new inside/out, but is not lowering the bread much, maybe an inchand then starts coming right back up again.
I sure would appreciate some suggestions. Thanks
First thing you can do is have it unpaged get a long wooden spoon or something you can push the rack down with and see if it goes down ,should have some pressure against you. If you shake it does it rattle? Commom problem would be a screw fell out of the mechanism that lowers the rack or something is wedged in it. Lucky you toaster bi metal strip is working right . Because your bread is not blocking the strip and it will do that when nothing is in there or does not go down al the way . You can hold it upside down and push the wooden spoon on the rack too. Would be a easy for for me , let me know how it goes.