Disgusting Beyond Belief: Restoring a Sunbeam Radiant Toaster (T-35)
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- Опубліковано 31 січ 2021
- So, after over 100gb of video recorded, and a few clips that didn't save properly, I decided to edit this down into a reasonably short video. The original plan was to also do some edited longer ones showing more detail but they would just be ridiculously long.
Thing was a lot of work, and unfortunately there were some bits I couldn't get quite right, like the corrosion in the center section that was super deep into the metal but overall it's still way better than it came in, and is now the only toaster I've ever actually owned, and the first time I've had toast in around three years.
Hopefully this shows enough detail even when heavily edited for anyone else who wants to try this on a toaster they have kicking around, or find for a bit of a deal due to being either just super dirty, or a bit broken (like mine with the center section being bent out of wack somehow which stopped the mechanism from working)
I Don't See the Branches, I See the Leaves by Chris Zabriskie is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Source: chriszabriskie.com/dtv/
Artist: chriszabriskie.com/ - Наука та технологія
I just received a sunbeam from my grandmother. It has been on her covered porch for the last 30 plus years. I will be referring to this video for my tear down and refresh. I hope it goes well.🤞
How'd it go?
Oh yeah, realized a while back, that shiny, odd looking insulation material is mica sheet.
I have to admire your dedication to completely rebuilding the Sunbeam.
This sort of thing isn't replaceable, given they are no longer made.
People should practice on a cheap crappy toaster first, get used to handling fragile mica. Plus you get some high temperature cables you can use on the good toaster.
Thanks, I couldn't do as good of a job as I wanted, but it was in pretty bad shape,and I also did it with limited tools, and this is my first restoration of an appliance. guess rebuild is a better term.
I had been considering getting the outside chrome redone to handle the spots where it wore through, but that would be fairly expensive considering the insides are still rough.
As far as i can tell the biggest risk is the thermostat, a full disassembly probably isn't the best for everyone, I did drop that super tiny spring a couple times.
I do wonder how different the construction of a modern toaster is, I can see why nobody makes these with how many different individual parts there are, it would be very expensive.
If you're going to give a thumbs down, maybe you should at least link to a video that does a better job of showing a detailed disassembly of these toasters, or make one yourself if you think it could be better. You know, actually be constructive for a change.
Sadly there are a lot of assholes on UA-cam who only exist to thumb everything down. They don’t even care what. I have a Sunbeam T 35 myself.
We need help please, we got one of these toasters at a thrift shop, we took it apart to clean it. However when we were putting it back together we are having a hard time having the mechanism go back up. No matter how much we tighten the screw on the bottom it just stays down. Any help would be much appreciated
Great work!
Very nice rebuild!! Good detail!!! I’ll watch it again when I work on my toaster.
I’m curious why you chose to rivet the case and not use the screws( in case you need to get back in)
Plus where did you find that cord. It’s perfect !
The cord is from a GE Designer extension cord, expensive, especially to cut up, but it does fit the toaster perfectly.
I used rivets to keep it simple, screws might back out or strip later on, and it's really easy to drill out rivets anyhow.
Awesome thank you very much. I looked up that cord and it’s a great match for the toaster
Wonderful repair video, my only issue is that there is too much fast forwarding to catch all the steps?
What should the air gap be on the reed power switch? what holds it
closed? what holds it open-surely not the teeny weak spring underneath
the little pin from the bimetallic reed? a magnet in the toaster side of
the switch maybe? (only asking because I'm trying to fix one someone
else fiddled with. If I hold the switch shut lightly it will run, but
the switch opens without pressure. looks like it's been bent or
something
I'm wondering the same thing. I believe the contacts were magnetic but mine have lost their magnetism so they will not stay closed. Thinking of adding a magnet to the back of one or replacing them if I can find ones the right size.
I tried sticking a tiny magnet to the back of mine with no success. @@aubreypwilliams
How did you adjust the thermostat and the tension of the wires in the center? I have a sunbeam that just activates on its own with no bread in it. I plug it in, and it just lowers and starts toasting with nothing in it. And then it'll constantly lower and raise itself nonstop. It doesn't matter if the bar the bread pushes in the "one slice" slot is down or not. I can get it to not go down by itself buy turning the darkness knob slightly, but then it doesn't do anything at all.
I have a similar issue. did you find a fix for this?
@@shaneratnatilake1974 like a moron, I had the darkness screw turned all the way in, it was essentially not letting the bi metal do its job. It needs to be able to snap back and forth from the heat. My bi metal strip is actually a bit weak and bends too early, but I was able to get it to work well enough by tweaking it a bit with a screw driver
What material is the sheet in between the center elements made of?
It just seems to be some thin aluminium, so getting oven cleaner on it would damage it badly.
i have also have one, i noticed that mine doesn't heat up the side with the radiant control sensor as much as the middle or even the other similar side. does yours does the same is it normal or wear of the elements.
That doesn't sound normal at all!
I wish you could have shown the process of replacing the power cord. Did you join the new cord with the toaster using solder or just Butt Connectors Crimps?
I actually re-used the butt crimps that were in place on the old cord. Soldering might work but the whole unit heats up a lot in use, so a crimp connection is likely safest.
What AWG size is the RADIX replacement wire you installed?
Hmm, good question, I can't find the bit of extra that I had leftover. There's really not much wire internally, so even at 15 amps it's not at a terribly long distance.
It was about the same size as the extension cord donor I used, which I think was 18awg.
What product(s) did you use to clean and polish the outside?
I didn't actually do anything much to the outside, just cleaned it with windex, but the exterior chrome was in really good shape.
I used autosol metal polish with that polisher on the inside and it would do a pretty good job outside as well though I'm sure.
that is bad 😮😮
What is this music?