What size fuse are you using on the constant true ignition and would you recommend this for all the holleys Red,blue and black. Oh by the way I did get my relay and the pigtail for it thanks. I really liked how specific your diagram is.
You'll have to review the instructions, it will give the recommended amperage rating. It's typically not very high. Make sure you ground the pump well.
Thanks for that sir! Just want to make sure... 87-To Battery(Fused) 86-Ground 85-Ignition 30-To Fuel Pump(or device being used). 10 Gauge wire sufficient? Thanks in advance for the reply!
@@AnthonyJ350 tbi is 12psi so no big deal regulating that down. On my current 77 C15 GMC, i run the Holley Red and has 5.5psi with no return, does very well no far.
Great video! straight to the point. My only question is, what do you do if there is no spot to get a switched ignition from? for example on my 85 C-20 the only wire that I could find that is a switched ignition is the distributor wire. Could you make a terminal block that the distributor wire feeds both the relay and the distributor?
@@AnthonyJ350 as I understand it, the relay only sends the signal when you turn the switch on (momentarily), the fuel pump needs the signal at all times. So how to?
Awesome video, great explanation. I would like to install that on a 1970 Chevy C-20. If I get constant power from the junction block from the positive side of the battery, then create a ground connection, where would I get the power from the ignition? Somewhere on the fuse box? That is what I am just not sure about. Where can I get power when the key is turned to the on position?
How do you bypass the return fuel line because my truck has a main line, vape line and the thinnest one is the return. Also, does the fuel pump have be closer to the tank or the engine?
Im having an issue where my new vane pump wont stop pumping and it floods my carb, it pressurizes but won't stop like my old diaphragm pump I had, what is the reason behind this? is there a way to wire in its own fuel pressure switch? im new to wiring my own truck so im still learning so please help if you can. - ian
Hopefully you still reply I was wondering I have a 79 camaro I bought it recently and it didn’t have the mechanical fuel pump so I bought an electric one but I am so confused on how to wire it since it doesn’t have an oil pressure cuttoff switch and I don’t know if it’s necessary to buy it or how to wire it. I was wondering if I could wire it to the neutral safety switch? Can you please give me an info on how to do it safely I was searching all over the internet and this is the only video I have sort of understood.
It is best if you can wire in the oil pressure switch. It will go on PIN 85 and provide a negative trigger. You can send me the diagram of the product you're looking at.
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you I wasn’t looking at any diagram since I never found one but In the videos I have seen they always say connect it to “the switch” I wasn’t sure what switch I always thought the neutral safety switch but now I know it’s the oil pressure switch. I have yet to order the switch I found a diagram on Jegs here it is www.jegs.com/installationinstructions/500/555/555-11200.pdf Do you have a video on installing an oil pressures switch? Or do you know where to install it? I can’t get much from that diagram. Thank you
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks , where did you get the fittings from? I tried three different auto parts , none of them had the fittings. Barbed, i guess a hardware store would be the place to go.
@@mohammedshahedhossain9627 It's possible. You might want to contact an aftermarket company the makes the fuel system you want to purchase, like Holley.
its just a base model v6 i replaced all the relays that support the pump and the pump itself (ccrm and fpdm) and still no voltage. i already hooked some power to the pump and it kicks on
@@quadmaster1954 I'd try to find where the break is and everything should just start working again. Look in areas where the wire is bent and inspect the length for any damage.
Hiya mate, please help if possible. Ok, I'll try keep it short for now. I bought a Suzuki ignis sport for rally / fun. With original tank / pump it started on the button 100% ...I removed the large under body tank / pump. I installed a 15ltr tank in the back. Bought an inline universal high pressure fuel pump. Cost £60 nearly from a motorsport shop. The first one I thought was faulty, sent it back, got a replacement after some haggling. The key point is that I have it wired off the original fuel pump wiring. Ignition = prime ..turn key. Car starts no problem .. BUT! As with the first one it started on install / test. But almost sounds like it's struggling and starts to either starve or I just felt it best to turn it off. So with the first pump and now this second pump. Both the exact same ...the next morning I try to start the car and its not starting. Pumps making noises like its priming but won't pump the fuel. When the motorsport shop took back the first pump it was tested and it pumped fine for them for 30 mins but said I just sounded a little noisy. But this is both pumps failing to start the next day! There is fuel, flowing.. as in if I disconnected the inlet on the pump @ 12mm it's flowing fuel into a bottle. After watching your video I believe it's got to be my wiring or something ..You mentioned the pump might require a different wiring / current or something ...Is it possible I'm coming to the correct conclusion? Why if instead they both worked fine but now it won't pump fuel. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out what I need to do. Battery I fully charged, zytech 12mm in out filter before the pump + plenty of fuel.. what could I be missing or not doing correct? Please help, any advice is greatly appreciated!! :)
@@AnthonyJ350 Hiya, cheers for the reply. Would this not only help if there is fuel pressure to gauge in the first place? ...this is my issue. When I first install pump as new out of the box it works no problem. Or seems to. But try it the next day and it won't ignite. When I brought the first pump back they tested it. Not in front of me though. They advised it pumped fuel for 30 mins no problem but was just a bit noisy. So I can only gather from this that the pump isn't getting the power it desires? I guess a test would be to put a volt sensor on the + - on the pump while someone turns the key? ...another point I was concerned about was the original pipe work was fuel sender line, a breather pipe and what we assumed was a return line but I could not get fuel to come out of the return line. Is this possibily an issue ...if the fuel gets sent continually but is unable to return then it would stress the pump out? Maybe causing this issue? But what gets me is the 'test' these guys did with the first pump they advised it pumped fine so I am just pulling my hair out trying to figure out am I completely stupid or am I just missing something simple? I'm a technical kinda person and I don't do anything which I know could potentially damage things so I like to ask questions before going and doing something you'll regret later kinda thing. I know this kinda thing is difficult over a keyboard but I'm just hoping someone somewhere might have the answers :) thanks in advance again Anthony !
@@blizteredthumbs7911 I would pull the pump out and try to run it on your bench. Don't run it dry for too long as the fuel helps lubricate it and keep it cool.
Hello from Oregon, I have a Holley blue that went bad so Summit Racing sent me another, I have no relay but I just bought an after market one and it does not show the same wiring as you explain should I follow it or the way you explain, it is not a Holley relay and it has 14ga wiring, I plan to run a 10ga wire to pump directly to relay, My relay shows pin 85 Ground, pin 86 switch, pin 30 is hot Battery, pin 87 to devise/pump should I follow this or as you explain?Al.
That was is correct and virtually the same if you saw how the internals of a relay work. Just follow their diagram and make sure to put a fuse inline where ever you get power from.
Your method obviously worked, but it's not a good idea to be teaching your students this way.👈 If the relay has a freewheeling/reverse polarity diode fitted, you will blow the diode.👈 Sandard practice is actually the opposite of what you showed.👈 For a traditional power side switched circuit: Pin 30 should be the fused power (+) supplying the relay. Pin 87 should be the switched output power (+) to the load/accessory being powered. Pin 85 should be the negative (-) terminal of the relay coil. Pin 86 should be the positive (+) terminal of the relay coil. 👍
@@AnthonyJ350 A diode in reverse polarity is sometimes fitted on some relays between terminal 85 + 86, commonly used if the relay is controlled by a transistor or some sort of electronic circuit, ECM etc. If you get the polarity of these connections incorrect, the diode will effectively be dead shorted and conduct, causing the diode to burn up. Look up quenching diode, freewheeling diode, snubber diode, flyback diode etc👍
@@simonilett998 The relays we're using I'm pretty don't have the diode internally. I've discussed adding one with a technician before but the majority don't bother. What application have you done seeing failure without the diode present for the coil?
@@simonilett998 Do you know what brand of relay has the internal diode? Because Tyco and Bosch don't. Also the other problem in the industry is every manual sometime 85 is ground other times it's the positive trigger. And no manual even discusses the diode.
AnthonyJ350 okay so I bought a Holley blue fuel pump fer my 454 78 Malibu right, and i also got the relay wire kit, comes with a already wired relay plug, different size wires n shit, also got the oil pressure safety switch so I did a bunch of research and figured it out but my main concern is where I hook up my ignition source/switched 12v it says run a wire from the NO on the oil pressure switch to the ignition I’m not sure where a good location is, that part has me the most confused
That's the key of wiring, you need to understand it before you wire so you don't light your car on fire. If you think having that mentality is bullshit, good luck in life to you sir.
Didn't know about inertia switches until I watched your video, you are literally doing a public service! Lol
So glad the video helped you!
Awesome video, very easy for people like me that knows nothing about electricity, thank you!!!
Glad it helped!
Seriously helped me out with this. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
What size fuse are you using on the constant true ignition and would you recommend this for all the holleys Red,blue and black. Oh by the way I did get my relay and the pigtail for it thanks. I really liked how specific your diagram is.
You'll have to review the instructions, it will give the recommended amperage rating. It's typically not very high. Make sure you ground the pump well.
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks. My first one
Thanks for that sir!
Just want to make sure...
87-To Battery(Fused)
86-Ground
85-Ignition
30-To Fuel Pump(or device being used).
10 Gauge wire sufficient?
Thanks in advance for the reply!
Yup and 10 gauge is more than enough. So sorry for the late reply, I just saw this one.
I used my TBI fuel pump and used a Holley regulator to give me 6psi for the carb
Great idea!
@@AnthonyJ350 tbi is 12psi so no big deal regulating that down. On my current 77 C15 GMC, i run the Holley Red and has 5.5psi with no return, does very well no far.
Great video! straight to the point. My only question is, what do you do if there is no spot to get a switched ignition from? for example on my 85 C-20 the only wire that I could find that is a switched ignition is the distributor wire. Could you make a terminal block that the distributor wire feeds both the relay and the distributor?
There's a switched ignition at the ignition switch harness.
Great video! So this relay wiring should eliminate the oil pressure safety switch?
It can or you can use it in conjunction.
@@AnthonyJ350 as I understand it, the relay only sends the signal when you turn the switch on (momentarily), the fuel pump needs the signal at all times. So how to?
@@shaolinmonk8620 Wire through an oil pressure switch to provide current once the engine is running.
Awesome video, great explanation.
I would like to install that on a 1970 Chevy C-20. If I get constant power from the junction block from the positive side of the battery, then create a ground connection, where would I get the power from the ignition? Somewhere on the fuse box?
That is what I am just not sure about. Where can I get power when the key is turned to the on position?
You can find an ignition wire typically at the fuse distribution. Just make sure to put a fuse inline.
Thanks for the info.
Great explanation! Will you be doing another video like this soon?
Best Access Doors Sorry for the late reply, just saw this. We're always making videos along these lines. What are you looking for specifically?
@Spun Tomato What didn't you like?
Awesome video ... Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Am l right in thinking that you only have the power wire going to the fuel pump because the pump is grounded to the frame?
Correct
I am installing a red holley electric fuel pump. My question is where to get the relay and the pigtail for it
An installation bay should be able to sell you the parts.
Just use the one in the truck car.
How do you bypass the return fuel line because my truck has a main line, vape line and the thinnest one is the return. Also, does the fuel pump have be closer to the tank or the engine?
I maintained it. Used a fuel pressure regulator with a return.
Im having an issue where my new vane pump wont stop pumping and it floods my carb, it pressurizes but won't stop like my old diaphragm pump I had, what is the reason behind this? is there a way to wire in its own fuel pressure switch? im new to wiring my own truck so im still learning so please help if you can. - ian
You can install a fuel pressure regulator with a return line.
Hey, when installing the pump how do you do lines from the tank to the pump itself?
I'm redoing my setup next year after the custom shop is built. I'll make a video for it.
@@AnthonyJ350 Alright thank you. I'm planning on fixing my current set up with a device like this and I'm just not sure how to do it exactly
Hopefully you still reply I was wondering I have a 79 camaro I bought it recently and it didn’t have the mechanical fuel pump so I bought an electric one but I am so confused on how to wire it since it doesn’t have an oil pressure cuttoff switch and I don’t know if it’s necessary to buy it or how to wire it. I was wondering if I could wire it to the neutral safety switch? Can you please give me an info on how to do it safely I was searching all over the internet and this is the only video I have sort of understood.
It is best if you can wire in the oil pressure switch. It will go on PIN 85 and provide a negative trigger. You can send me the diagram of the product you're looking at.
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you I wasn’t looking at any diagram since I never found one but In the videos I have seen they always say connect it to “the switch” I wasn’t sure what switch I always thought the neutral safety switch but now I know it’s the oil pressure switch. I have yet to order the switch I found a diagram on Jegs here it is www.jegs.com/installationinstructions/500/555/555-11200.pdf Do you have a video on installing an oil pressures switch? Or do you know where to install it? I can’t get much from that diagram. Thank you
@@elcuh7939 In the diagram you sent, the oil pressure switch replaces the relay. "Switch" would be ignition.
@@AnthonyJ350 Ohhh ok thanks for the help much appreciated 👍👍
@@elcuh7939 You're welcome
Could I wire it to my radio ignition? I'm having a nightmare on my foxbody
No not enough amperage on that circuit. Needs a dedicated true ignition circuit for safety
What fittings did you use coming out of the pump connecting to the fuel lines.
Barbed fittings with hose clamps
@@AnthonyJ350
Thanks , where did you get the fittings from? I tried three different auto parts , none of them had the fittings.
Barbed, i guess a hardware store would be the place to go.
Our local Lordco auto parts store has an aisle you can mix and match fittings then but the appropriate type of hose.
What size relay will i need for a weber? Says it pulls 6A at full throttle?
Just get a Tyco relay rated for 30/40 amp.
@@AnthonyJ350 general purpose relay from tyco? Or fuel pump specific?
@@Mroswaldo16 5 pin single pole double throw. They have 100% duty cycle and are made in Portugal and are based off Bosch relays.
Could you tell me how to wire motor,pump,screen and flowmeter with motherboard in diesel or gas pump?
thank you.
I highly suggest having a credible performance shop do the work for you on that one.
Which shops?
Could you suggest me?please
@@mohammedshahedhossain9627 Not sure, I only know Canadian shops in my area.
Could i get any help by online from this shops?
@@mohammedshahedhossain9627 It's possible. You might want to contact an aftermarket company the makes the fuel system you want to purchase, like Holley.
confusing!
Pay a professional
would i be able to do this in a 2000 mustang? i dont know if its gonna trip the ecu or something
You should be able to replace the one in the tank. Is the vehicle super or turbo charged?
its just a base model v6 i replaced all the relays that support the pump and the pump itself (ccrm and fpdm) and still no voltage. i already hooked some power to the pump and it kicks on
@@quadmaster1954 there's probably a break in the wire. I would do a continuity test.
@@AnthonyJ350 yeah i feel thats the case, u think i should find the open wire for safety reasons or is it fine
@@quadmaster1954 I'd try to find where the break is and everything should just start working again. Look in areas where the wire is bent and inspect the length for any damage.
Hiya mate, please help if possible. Ok, I'll try keep it short for now. I bought a Suzuki ignis sport for rally / fun. With original tank / pump it started on the button 100% ...I removed the large under body tank / pump. I installed a 15ltr tank in the back. Bought an inline universal high pressure fuel pump. Cost £60 nearly from a motorsport shop. The first one I thought was faulty, sent it back, got a replacement after some haggling. The key point is that I have it wired off the original fuel pump wiring. Ignition = prime ..turn key. Car starts no problem .. BUT! As with the first one it started on install / test. But almost sounds like it's struggling and starts to either starve or I just felt it best to turn it off. So with the first pump and now this second pump. Both the exact same ...the next morning I try to start the car and its not starting. Pumps making noises like its priming but won't pump the fuel. When the motorsport shop took back the first pump it was tested and it pumped fine for them for 30 mins but said I just sounded a little noisy. But this is both pumps failing to start the next day! There is fuel, flowing.. as in if I disconnected the inlet on the pump @ 12mm it's flowing fuel into a bottle. After watching your video I believe it's got to be my wiring or something ..You mentioned the pump might require a different wiring / current or something ...Is it possible I'm coming to the correct conclusion? Why if instead they both worked fine but now it won't pump fuel. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out what I need to do. Battery I fully charged, zytech 12mm in out filter before the pump + plenty of fuel.. what could I be missing or not doing correct? Please help, any advice is greatly appreciated!! :)
I would install a fuel pressure gauge, that will help you diagnose the problem.
@@AnthonyJ350 Hiya, cheers for the reply. Would this not only help if there is fuel pressure to gauge in the first place? ...this is my issue. When I first install pump as new out of the box it works no problem. Or seems to. But try it the next day and it won't ignite. When I brought the first pump back they tested it. Not in front of me though. They advised it pumped fuel for 30 mins no problem but was just a bit noisy. So I can only gather from this that the pump isn't getting the power it desires? I guess a test would be to put a volt sensor on the + - on the pump while someone turns the key? ...another point I was concerned about was the original pipe work was fuel sender line, a breather pipe and what we assumed was a return line but I could not get fuel to come out of the return line. Is this possibily an issue ...if the fuel gets sent continually but is unable to return then it would stress the pump out? Maybe causing this issue? But what gets me is the 'test' these guys did with the first pump they advised it pumped fine so I am just pulling my hair out trying to figure out am I completely stupid or am I just missing something simple? I'm a technical kinda person and I don't do anything which I know could potentially damage things so I like to ask questions before going and doing something you'll regret later kinda thing. I know this kinda thing is difficult over a keyboard but I'm just hoping someone somewhere might have the answers :) thanks in advance again Anthony !
@@blizteredthumbs7911 I would pull the pump out and try to run it on your bench. Don't run it dry for too long as the fuel helps lubricate it and keep it cool.
@@blizteredthumbs7911 Did you modify the intake unit for the fuel pick up?
I have a problem. My fuel pump doesn't power on when 87 is connected. But it powers on constantly when 87a is connected.
What's on 86 and 85?
@@AnthonyJ350 86 is terminator x trigger and 85 is ground
@@23steph13 87 is to battery and 30 to the fuel pump?
@@AnthonyJ350 now I have ran fuel pump to green wire on terminator x. Running fine now. Thanks again!
@@23steph13 Glad to hear you got it going.
Could you tell me what the name of the thing thats actually attaches the fuel lines to the pump ,anyone
The barbed fittings?
Sweet!
Thanks for watching!
Hello from Oregon, I have a Holley blue that went bad so Summit Racing sent me another, I have no relay but I just bought an after market one and it does not show the same wiring as you explain should I follow it or the way you explain, it is not a Holley relay and it has 14ga wiring, I plan to run a 10ga wire to pump directly to relay, My relay shows pin 85 Ground, pin 86 switch, pin 30 is hot Battery, pin 87 to devise/pump should I follow this or as you explain?Al.
That was is correct and virtually the same if you saw how the internals of a relay work. Just follow their diagram and make sure to put a fuse inline where ever you get power from.
Hi Anthony, I did figure out what I need to do but thanks for getting back.
Your method obviously worked, but it's not a good idea to be teaching your students this way.👈
If the relay has a freewheeling/reverse polarity diode fitted, you will blow the diode.👈
Sandard practice is actually the opposite of what you showed.👈
For a traditional power side switched circuit:
Pin 30 should be the fused power (+) supplying the relay.
Pin 87 should be the switched output power (+) to the load/accessory being powered.
Pin 85 should be the negative (-) terminal of the relay coil.
Pin 86 should be the positive (+) terminal of the relay coil.
👍
You're saying the diode is fitted between pin 87 and 30? Or 85 and 86?
@@AnthonyJ350 A diode in reverse polarity is sometimes fitted on some relays between terminal 85 + 86, commonly used if the relay is controlled by a transistor or some sort of electronic circuit, ECM etc.
If you get the polarity of these connections incorrect, the diode will effectively be dead shorted and conduct, causing the diode to burn up.
Look up quenching diode, freewheeling diode, snubber diode, flyback diode etc👍
@@simonilett998 The relays we're using I'm pretty don't have the diode internally. I've discussed adding one with a technician before but the majority don't bother.
What application have you done seeing failure without the diode present for the coil?
@@simonilett998 Do you know what brand of relay has the internal diode? Because Tyco and Bosch don't. Also the other problem in the industry is every manual sometime 85 is ground other times it's the positive trigger.
And no manual even discusses the diode.
@@simonilett998 If you're not using pin 87a at all. Does it matter if the power source is on 87 vs 30?
Boss man I need help I see you replying to recent comments
Sure what's up?
AnthonyJ350 okay so I bought a Holley blue fuel pump fer my 454 78 Malibu right, and i also got the relay wire kit, comes with a already wired relay plug, different size wires n shit, also got the oil pressure safety switch so I did a bunch of research and figured it out but my main concern is where I hook up my ignition source/switched 12v it says run a wire from the NO on the oil pressure switch to the ignition I’m not sure where a good location is, that part has me the most confused
no gas from tank to electric fuel pump out of tank electric fuel pump
Joseph Saiz Sorry can you retype that.
Confusing
Thanks for the feedback!
🤔🤪
Confused?
Lot of bullisht in this video Jesus we don’t need a PhD just show us how to wire it.
That's the key of wiring, you need to understand it before you wire so you don't light your car on fire. If you think having that mentality is bullshit, good luck in life to you sir.