HOLY SHIT!!! I BOUGHT FUEL PUMPS, FUEL FILTER, Crank Shaft Timing Sensor, inertia switch, and payed for LABOR!! BUT YOU GOT MY TRUCK STARTED! GRACIAS VATO!
2000 Explorer, all these symptoms, tried a bunch of others before spending any money. Here I come across your video and what do ya know, one of these fuses was the problem. Thank you very much. 👍👍
Thank you so much! I was stuck at a gas station late at night in the cold. Thankfully there was a auto parts close by, and I was able to buy the fuse and replaced. Started up like a champ 🎉
Wow!!! I’m talking 2 years of pissing around with my explorer. New sensors, new fuel pump, new relays, hours upon hours of torture!!! My daughter and I shared this car. She had a set of keys and I had a set. She hardly used the car and when she did, she had problems, which I never did. It was the keys. Holy Hell. Thanks dude.
It happened to me twice before. I swapped two 20amp fuses under the hood and it worked. Next time my chip inside my key was needed cleaning as my key case was cracked. I cleaned it with a tooth brush and alcohol and it started.
Sit in the seat. Close driver's door (all doors closed). On the key pad, press lock... Press lock again to lock all doors. Press unlock. Place key in ignition, start engine. This should solve the problem at least temporarily. Repeat as necessary, but wait a few minutes between attempts.
That fuse is Maxi-fuse #111. It powers up the ignition switch. The switch, when in Start or Run, sends power to the Restraints Control Module (airbag module), the clutch pedal position switch and DTR sensor (neutral safety switches), your PCM, radio, and your PATS transceiver (key reader), and to your instrument cluster that also acts as your PATS module. That maxi-fuse does a lot! And without it working, you're dead in the water. By the way, your problem was fuse related, and nothing but fixing this fuse would have solved your issue. But if your problem was a PATS issue (keys, key programming, transceiver module, PATS module/instrument cluster, or network communication issue), then I could have deleted PATS for you in the PCM and solved that permanently. Now that the transceiver module (key reader) has been discontinued by Ford, we see these come in all the time to have PATS deleted because there is NO factory fix available, and it's nearly impossible to find a good used transceiver.
@@thekeyman2372 Most of the 96-04 Fords have discontinued transceivers. Mainly the vehicles with EEC-V PCMs, including 96-04 Mustangs and 99-03 F150's. And finding good used ones is extremely difficult. It's cheaper to have me delete PATS than it is to diagnose the issue.
I've got a early 2000s ranger. A shop rewired my trailer lights to tail lights. And now my anti theft is going off. Can't start it at all. Could it be there could've popped a fuse by doing that somehow?
I have a 2001 Ford F-150 4x4 7700 model. 5.4 triton v8 XL. This just started happening to me yesterday. At random times after I park somewhere and turn the truck off I go to open the door and realize I hear no dinging which means I have no power and the truck won’t start back up unless I mess with the driver side door lock. Sometimes I have to mess with it upwards of 20 minutes to get it out of theft mode. Not sure where to turn for a fix.
For anyone who just put in a new ignition switch (bar with prongs/not key cylinder) on a 02 Ford Ranger and all you get are dash lights and no crank and yer thinkin you messed up in the installation, STOP and before you start pulling fuses just (DUH) tap on the solenoid on top of yer starter! Mine cranked on immediately, I probably could have gotten more mileage out of the old switch but what concerns me more is the starter/solenoid failure as I replaced the starter a couple of years ago. I guess, what I'm saying is go with yer gut and keep it simple! Good luck! We learn as we go even without proper tools and training!
I just bought a cherry low miles 77,000 1999 f150 ex cab 2wd 4.6l. these trucks have so many codes and electrical issues. Now the speedometer is sticking at different mph, and then goes down like 5-10 miles an hour at a time. It runs fabulous and seems to drive fine, it's just seems that the gauges have issues? My theft light blinks also until you start the truck. I have manual door locks and no alarm system?
1999 ford expedition, insert key, even b-4 when I open the door sounds like a flasher is flashing, insert key , try to start and nothing, no crank , no turnover, was told by previous owner that I had to depress the remote and flasher would stop , then engine would start. I have made a bypass with solenoid to start but I still hear the flasher. is there a fix for this?
Have you check the starter? Might not be electrical. Put a screw driver between the 2 pole on the solenoid with key forward and see if it will turn. There is also a small box underneath the steering column that activates the thief light. Remove the column plastic and check there. If it has an alarm, some alarms will keep vehicle from turning on. There will be some wires by the foot brake on top that you can connect by switching them around. Normally there is 4 wires with quick connects. Don’t forget to check all breakers and fuses. Hope you will resolve the issue.
My 2004 ford focus is doing the same. Wont start nor will the engine crank. The only thing thats different is that my antitheft light does not turn on. Could you give me some advice, please???
2003 F150, receiving code 11 after an attempted theft. I replaced the transponder antennae under ignition switch and it removed the code and the truck starts. Use exact number match of transponder.
@@crawdoogieI have the same issue and replaced that transceiver around the ignition lock cylinder with 2 transceivers, one different part number but was supposed to be compatible and looks identical, then a matching part number transceiver. Still have crank no start, theft blink code 11
I have a question i have 1999 ford f150 4.6l triton and i changed the spark plugs and wire's and now it's spits and sputtered like it has bad gas its throwing codes po171 po141 po161 po303 po302 what should i do
When the theft light blinks rapidly it means there's a (Code) problem with the PCM system.....so when he turned on the key, it blinked fast for about 45 secs....then it paused.....then it blinked once (for 1).....paused...then blinked 6 times (for 6)....That means a code 16........and then it started over....once...then 6....and so on. There are other codes like 15, 17, maybe a 14 but it's usually a 16...that's means it needs a new "PCM relay" (under $20..00) from the dealer or salvage. easy fix. find the relays in the fuse box(s). see manual. UPDATE!!!!....I wasn't my PCM relays after all.... Had my charging system checked a few months ago when my 1 year old battery was failing.....turned out that the alternator's diodes were no good! (along with its bearings) ...allowing voltage back into the CPU when turned off, causing it to do all kinds of weird stuff. Went to Ford and bought a remanufactured Alternator ($215.00) and NO MORE ISSUES!!!!!!
2003 F150, receiving code 11 after an attempted theft. I replaced the transponder antennae under ignition switch and it removed the code and the truck starts. Used exact number match of transponder.
Watch til the end of it pops again pull the IGN 15 amp fuse box under the hood and try the solenoid on the firewall if it fires up you have a short to ground on your ignition system.
I wish I would have seen this a few weeks ago when my 99 explorer wouldn't start for the same reason. None of the tricks ifound online worked. I finally pulled the relays (6 i think) put them back in and it started. Also, I used my code reader once and it did work but when I tried that last time it wouldn't recognize it and it said my battery was irregular. So I got a new battery and it still said the same thing. After I pulled the relays and started it, I tried hooking it up again and everything was fine.
I have a 2000 5.4 2 valve 225,000 miles ....runs like a champ ...front end is squeaky as all hell and the ac compressor is bypassed .....and I can see your digital odometer dont light up either lmao....but by the grace of god it gets me and my family around...praise jesus!!
Hey guys, if PATS has you tearing your hair out and it isn't something simple to fix, you can send me your PCM and for less than the cost of a locksmith, I can permanently delete PATS. Your Ford will start every time, even if you don't have any of the PATS components installed.
I have 2002 f 150 and my theft light is doing like yours but it will turn over but won't start I put a new fuel pump and new fuel filter new battery and crank sensor and cam sensor and new key switch with no chip and it doesn't have no fule module where the spare tire is I don't know need help
Jesus is coming soon but not today. As for the f150, mine was a hairline crack fuse in the engine compartment. Have you check your relays? Also check in the passenger side front corner by removing cover. There should be a fuel pump switch. Make sure it is push in
I took my cluster out and changed the lights went to put it back in and this happened but no theft lights or nothing my gauges wouldn’t move but the truck would turn over but just not crank so I’m hoping I popped a fuse or relay because the truck was running great
@@brianishmael2290 yeah I’m so irritated I did the heater core and removed the dash earlier this year and changed out some more stuff put a big head unit radio in and a few week ago I changed the plugs and coils trucks been running great no problems. The odometer (Mileage) would go off and on so the other day I took the cluster out because I ordered some new LED lights as well changed them out and I touched up the solder for the ODO went to put it back in the truck and the damn lights didn’t make a change neither did the solder now I can’t see the mileage at all and I’ve lost my Right blinker Arrow for some reason and now the truck will turn over it just will not crank I checked the fuses under the hood and they’re good but under the dash some have lost power but the fuses are fine and so are the maxi fuses . Needless to say I regret messing with the cluster. Im gonna check my ignition connectors tomorrow I’m hoping 1 came loose
@@alexharper9786 mine was just cranking too and not starting but I remembered I messed with the brake safety switch on the pedal and checked it and it wasn't pushed all the way in, also my instrument lights don't work either. Mine didn't start thus until I gave someone a jump and up until then it ran like a new one
@@brianishmael2290 Wow smh that’s crazy and what do you mean brake safety switch? When I started to remove cluster I had to bring the shifter all the way down so I pushed in the E brake I never new about a switch that has me thinking now
If I counted right that was fuse 111 which goes to your ignition switch it was overloaded n separated if it was shorted out there would be a blck cloud inside the fuse
Make sure to check all under the hood fuses with a test light. Might have some problems in the steering column. Check to see if keys is not to worn out or ignition key replacement. Check or replace the small box under the steering column. These are the less expensive things to do first. Also check your cluster on the back wire connection. Might not be making proper connection if your odometer is not reading. If you have an alarm system that can also effect your problem with age.
That's a code 24 first a 2 followed by a 4... then a really long pause if other codes exist, the light will blink giving you the next code the same way
My 97 anti theft light also blinks when it's off but the truck does start. The problem is, it's draining my battery and killing it within 24 to 48 hrs unless I disconnected the battery. Any suggestions anyone?
@@sharondubon2547 I actually did find a solution to my battery draining. Turns out my key ignition I starting to go bad so if I don't turn the steering wheel till it locks, it eventually trickles a parasidic drain. I even checked my power door locks and power seat controls but they were fine.
@@whiteyfisk9769 yes, so far it seams it was the key ignition causing the drain. Still haven't ordered another after market from Amazon but I will soon.
I have a 2005 F150. I fixed a grounded brake wire to my lights and it kicked the anti theft on. I've pulled the #203 Relay and swapped it with my tow light relay #201. The anti theft light on the dash went away but still not starting
Relentless Remag sorry to hear that. I’m not sure what the problem can be other then what was my problem. Could have one of the relays that are bad even tho you swapped them and both run of the anti theft. Also check your fuse box to make sure that one of the fuses dont have a hair crack line. Sometimes you can not see it by looking from top of fuse. Pull them out and check. Also learn that under the steering column by removing the cover. There is a small black box that sits on the center of the steering cloumn. That’s your anti theft box. Try also disconnecting your positive pole from the battery and plug it back on in the morning. Best of luck. Hope this help.
HOLY SHIT!!! I BOUGHT FUEL PUMPS, FUEL FILTER, Crank Shaft Timing Sensor, inertia switch, and payed for LABOR!! BUT YOU GOT MY TRUCK STARTED! GRACIAS VATO!
🤣🤣
Damn
2000 Explorer, all these symptoms, tried a bunch of others before spending any money. Here I come across your video and what do ya know, one of these fuses was the problem. Thank you very much. 👍👍
Thank you so much! I was stuck at a gas station late at night in the cold. Thankfully there was a auto parts close by, and I was able to buy the fuse and replaced. Started up like a champ 🎉
What kind of fuse is that
Wow!!! I’m talking 2 years of pissing around with my explorer. New sensors, new fuel pump, new relays, hours upon hours of torture!!!
My daughter and I shared this car. She had a set of keys and I had a set. She hardly used the car and when she did, she had problems, which I never did.
It was the keys. Holy Hell.
Thanks dude.
Great Job. Sometimes its the simplest things. Thanks for the video 😉
As a locksmith, you greatly helped me in the field! Thanks man!
That’s why I’m here 😂😂
thanks for sharing, you nail it!
It happened to me twice before. I swapped two 20amp fuses under the hood and it worked. Next time my chip inside my key was needed cleaning as my key case was cracked. I cleaned it with a tooth brush and alcohol and it started.
How did you clean the chip
Sit in the seat. Close driver's door (all doors closed). On the key pad, press lock... Press lock again to lock all doors. Press unlock. Place key in ignition, start engine. This should solve the problem at least temporarily. Repeat as necessary, but wait a few minutes between attempts.
Yes, *God* IS good !!!! 👍👍🙏🙏
I'm having the same problem and yes God is good ..I hope it fixes mine. Thanks for your help .Merry Christmas
That fuse is Maxi-fuse #111. It powers up the ignition switch. The switch, when in Start or Run, sends power to the Restraints Control Module (airbag module), the clutch pedal position switch and DTR sensor (neutral safety switches), your PCM, radio, and your PATS transceiver (key reader), and to your instrument cluster that also acts as your PATS module. That maxi-fuse does a lot! And without it working, you're dead in the water.
By the way, your problem was fuse related, and nothing but fixing this fuse would have solved your issue. But if your problem was a PATS issue (keys, key programming, transceiver module, PATS module/instrument cluster, or network communication issue), then I could have deleted PATS for you in the PCM and solved that permanently. Now that the transceiver module (key reader) has been discontinued by Ford, we see these come in all the time to have PATS deleted because there is NO factory fix available, and it's nearly impossible to find a good used transceiver.
How do you delete the key security or pats from the computer I gotta get a key made and programmed or do this
What do you mean? I just went and bought a new transceiver at the ford dealer today for an 08 mustang
@@thekeyman2372 Most of the 96-04 Fords have discontinued transceivers. Mainly the vehicles with EEC-V PCMs, including 96-04 Mustangs and 99-03 F150's. And finding good used ones is extremely difficult. It's cheaper to have me delete PATS than it is to diagnose the issue.
@@thekeyman2372 I should have responded as Drag Radial Performance, instead of Steve.
@@Pontistevehow much to delete on a 09 f f15o
I've got a early 2000s ranger. A shop rewired my trailer lights to tail lights. And now my anti theft is going off. Can't start it at all. Could it be there could've popped a fuse by doing that somehow?
Thanks Mr Flores, Solved a problem I have been having.
Good video! Mine isnt doing quite this, so hopefully the theft isn’t the problem.
I have a 2001 Ford F-150 4x4 7700 model. 5.4 triton v8 XL. This just started happening to me yesterday. At random times after I park somewhere and turn the truck off I go to open the door and realize I hear no dinging which means I have no power and the truck won’t start back up unless I mess with the driver side door lock. Sometimes I have to mess with it upwards of 20 minutes to get it out of theft mode. Not sure where to turn for a fix.
May be a long shot since this was posted but did you find the issue?
I have to check this out I never thought it could be a fuse I thought it was the computer
Thanks for this wonderful video I will try it on ford ranger and I'm sure it should work fine ❤❤😊
Buen video a mí me pasó lo mismo,. Código 11 Ford Ranger 2003, le cambié antena receptora del transponder, y se solucionó la falla..
Amigo tengo problema con código 11 a veces detecta el chip y a veces no, que puedo hacer.
Saludos
For anyone who just put in a new ignition switch (bar with prongs/not key cylinder) on a 02 Ford Ranger and all you get are dash lights and no crank and yer thinkin you messed up in the installation, STOP and before you start pulling fuses just (DUH) tap on the solenoid on top of yer starter! Mine cranked on immediately, I probably could have gotten more mileage out of the old switch but what concerns me more is the starter/solenoid failure as I replaced the starter a couple of years ago. I guess, what I'm saying is go with yer gut and keep it simple! Good luck! We learn as we go even without proper tools and training!
You should have tapped the solenoid before you replaced the switch.
Thank you happened out on the sand dunes, glad next to camp
I just bought a cherry low miles 77,000 1999 f150 ex cab 2wd 4.6l. these trucks have so many codes and electrical issues. Now the speedometer is sticking at different mph, and then goes down like 5-10 miles an hour at a time. It runs fabulous and seems to drive fine, it's just seems that the gauges have issues? My theft light blinks also until you start the truck. I have manual door locks and no alarm system?
1999 ford expedition, insert key, even b-4 when I open the door sounds like a flasher is flashing, insert key , try to start and nothing, no crank , no turnover, was told by previous owner that I had to depress the remote and flasher would stop , then engine would start. I have made a bypass with solenoid to start but I still hear the flasher. is there a fix for this?
Have you check the starter? Might not be electrical. Put a screw driver between the 2 pole on the solenoid with key forward and see if it will turn. There is also a small box underneath the steering column that activates the thief light. Remove the column plastic and check there. If it has an alarm, some alarms will keep vehicle from turning on. There will be some wires by the foot brake on top that you can connect by switching them around. Normally there is 4 wires with quick connects. Don’t forget to check all breakers and fuses. Hope you will resolve the issue.
What if it cranks but doesn’t start and has theft light blinking
I see it now waiting haha
Same bruh
Thanks for posting the other fuses fix my truck
My does the same issue but the PCM relay clicks. I bought a replacement relay but same issue
How did you fix the pcm problem?
My 2004 ford focus is doing the same. Wont start nor will the engine crank. The only thing thats different is that my antitheft light does not turn on. Could you give me some advice, please???
2003 F150, receiving code 11 after an attempted theft. I replaced the transponder antennae under ignition switch and it removed the code and the truck starts. Use exact number match of transponder.
Would that work on 1999 f150
@@coreysmith1426 no
@@crawdoogieI have the same issue and replaced that transceiver around the ignition lock cylinder with 2 transceivers, one different part number but was supposed to be compatible and looks identical, then a matching part number transceiver. Still have crank no start, theft blink code 11
Thank you...
This is epic. Many many thanks. You def helped me.
Which fuse is the relay
Greatly appreciated
El fusible se miraba bueno de arriba pero lo cambié y se apagó el foco del theft.
Thank you this helped, my husband is experiencing the same problem with his 99 Ford F-150 XLT
I have a question i have 1999 ford f150 4.6l triton and i changed the spark plugs and wire's and now it's spits and sputtered like it has bad gas its throwing codes po171 po141 po161 po303 po302 what should i do
Did you purchase pregapped spark plugs? Most of them come pregapped but if not, gap them correctly.
When the theft light blinks rapidly it means there's a (Code) problem with the PCM system.....so when he turned on the key, it blinked fast for about 45 secs....then it paused.....then it blinked once (for 1).....paused...then blinked 6 times (for 6)....That means a code 16........and then it started over....once...then 6....and so on.
There are other codes like 15, 17, maybe a 14 but it's usually a 16...that's means it needs a new "PCM relay" (under $20..00) from the dealer or salvage. easy fix. find the relays in the fuse box(s). see manual.
UPDATE!!!!....I wasn't my PCM relays after all.... Had my charging system checked a few months ago when my 1 year old battery was failing.....turned out that the alternator's diodes were no good! (along with its bearings) ...allowing voltage back into the CPU when turned off, causing it to do all kinds of weird stuff. Went to Ford and bought a remanufactured Alternator ($215.00) and NO MORE ISSUES!!!!!!
Mine is giving the same code but all my fuses are good,still will crank but no start and theft light blinks.
Same on my 2004 Ford lightning
2003 F150, receiving code 11 after an attempted theft. I replaced the transponder antennae under ignition switch and it removed the code and the truck starts. Used exact number match of transponder.
@@svtbryan049 hey bro quick question how did you end up fixing the problem I have a 2001 ford lightning same issue
Muchas gracias. Great video!!!
My 2000 expedition went into theft mode nothing happens no beeping no nothing
All i did when this happened to me was lock and unlock your door with the key about 8 times and its fixed
Why isn't the digital odometer not lit up?
How did you find the code
Thanks life saver
Would it work for a 98 mustang
I havea 2000 ford f150 4.6l and the question is how tofiz cruise control did work but it quit
Great Job👍🏼
Your amazing thanks man
Thanks for posting you did a good video but that's not my symptoms
Hope you get it resolved
Oh man thank you so much for the video I got the same issues here my truck still sitting at home. Hopefully work for me too
I want to disable the starter relay by pulling the fuse. to prevent theft cause someone won't give me my key back. 2001 F 150. will this do it???
If you pull the 301 I think fuse it will put into theft and fuel pump will cut off and won’t start until you put it back in
Yes..or fuel pump relay.
Thanks bro
I have the same problem. Did you fix it
Watch til the end of it pops again pull the IGN 15 amp fuse box under the hood and try the solenoid on the firewall if it fires up you have a short to ground on your ignition system.
I changed ignition coil n turns over but doesnt start bc of theft. Anyone know easy fast fix to turn off theft?
Following I have same problem
Did you ever figure it out
@@DavidSmith-iz9fr no. Ended up just selling it and letting someone else deal with it
I wish I would have seen this a few weeks ago when my 99 explorer wouldn't start for the same reason. None of the tricks ifound online worked. I finally pulled the relays (6 i think) put them back in and it started. Also, I used my code reader once and it did work but when I tried that last time it wouldn't recognize it and it said my battery was irregular. So I got a new battery and it still said the same thing. After I pulled the relays and started it, I tried hooking it up again and everything was fine.
Glade the problem was fix
Urs is a 50 mine is 40 should it be 50
Might want to look at the back side of the cover or look at manual even might google it for your yr model.
If the 40 amp is not blown when put in. You can leave it. As long as it works.
I have a 2000 5.4 2 valve 225,000 miles ....runs like a champ ...front end is squeaky as all hell and the ac compressor is bypassed .....and I can see your digital odometer dont light up either lmao....but by the grace of god it gets me and my family around...praise jesus!!
Lmao. It is what it is
good job buddy
Mil gracias 😊 🙂 🙏
I have a 99 f350 7.3 I think this will help thank you!
You poor😂
How can you tell it was broken but the fuse and you could at least say what the panel said the fuse was
Change the PCM relay. It works.
what is the fix?
Hey guys, if PATS has you tearing your hair out and it isn't something simple to fix, you can send me your PCM and for less than the cost of a locksmith, I can permanently delete PATS. Your Ford will start every time, even if you don't have any of the PATS components installed.
How do we get a hold of you
How can I get ahold of you?
have the same problem I already see your video and I do not find any other advice that I should do
Lock and unlock your door with key 8 times and its fixed
I have 2002 f 150 and my theft light is doing like yours but it will turn over but won't start I put a new fuel pump and new fuel filter new battery and crank sensor and cam sensor and new key switch with no chip and it doesn't have no fule module where the spare tire is I don't know need help
Jesus is coming soon but not today. As for the f150, mine was a hairline crack fuse in the engine compartment. Have you check your relays? Also check in the passenger side front corner by removing cover. There should be a fuel pump switch. Make sure it is push in
Nice tokayo... 👌😑. Don't forget about that fuel pump.
You can start it by jumping it with a screwdriver on the firewall when it does that....hope that helps someone
I took my cluster out and changed the lights went to put it back in and this happened but no theft lights or nothing my gauges wouldn’t move but the truck would turn over but just not crank so I’m hoping I popped a fuse or relay because the truck was running great
@@alexharper9786 mine is doing the exact same thing just cranks and cranks and it keeps blowing fuses
@@brianishmael2290 yeah I’m so irritated I did the heater core and removed the dash earlier this year and changed out some more stuff put a big head unit radio in and a few week ago I changed the plugs and coils trucks been running great no problems. The odometer (Mileage) would go off and on so the other day I took the cluster out because I ordered some new LED lights as well changed them out and I touched up the solder for the ODO went to put it back in the truck and the damn lights didn’t make a change neither did the solder now I can’t see the mileage at all and I’ve lost my Right blinker Arrow for some reason and now the truck will turn over it just will not crank I checked the fuses under the hood and they’re good but under the dash some have lost power but the fuses are fine and so are the maxi fuses . Needless to say I regret messing with the cluster. Im gonna check my ignition connectors tomorrow I’m hoping 1 came loose
@@alexharper9786 mine was just cranking too and not starting but I remembered I messed with the brake safety switch on the pedal and checked it and it wasn't pushed all the way in, also my instrument lights don't work either. Mine didn't start thus until I gave someone a jump and up until then it ran like a new one
@@brianishmael2290 Wow smh that’s crazy and what do you mean brake safety switch? When I started to remove cluster I had to bring the shifter all the way down so I pushed in the E brake I never new about a switch that has me thinking now
That's what mine did thanks
My truck doesn’t get current on the fuse.
Follow that wire until you find the loose/broken connection
If I counted right that was fuse 111 which goes to your ignition switch it was overloaded n separated if it was shorted out there would be a blck cloud inside the fuse
Yes and no. There is times age gets hold of them.
Thanks Hector! I will Check It Out!
God is good!!!
Mine isn't throwing a code 11 only a code for misfire on cylinder 3 I keep hearing this weird beeping noise anything fellas
Help me f150 2003 code 16 ???
Make sure to check all under the hood fuses with a test light. Might have some problems in the steering column. Check to see if keys is not to worn out or ignition key replacement. Check or replace the small box under the steering column. These are the less expensive things to do first. Also check your cluster on the back wire connection. Might not be making proper connection if your odometer is not reading. If you have an alarm system that can also effect your problem with age.
Yeah, this is a pretty good video
😁😁😁😁😁😁you the best
Dude thank you so much 🙏
Code 11..what dies that mean .......ground wire or dead battery lol..
Fuse
if it cranks but wont start, sometimes it's the crankshaft sensor, or just clean the inside the plug, that's all mine needed.
Mines blink twice pause then four more times. So is it code 14 or 1,1,4 or 24 WTH is it. Lol
That's a code 24 first a 2 followed by a 4... then a really long pause if other codes exist, the light will blink giving you the next code the same way
Awesome
Fuse is broken, blown, burned same
Can you do one for 15
Put your key in the door lock and turn it half way and wait for a minute and then turn it the other way and do the same thing it should fix it
That's the key switch. Flip the key 🗝️ and push
Clean your grounds on battery frame an the body grounds
My 97 anti theft light also blinks when it's off but the truck does start.
The problem is, it's draining my battery and killing it within 24 to 48 hrs unless I disconnected the battery.
Any suggestions anyone?
Hey I’ve been having similar problems were u able to find a solution?
@@sharondubon2547 I actually did find a solution to my battery draining.
Turns out my key ignition I starting to go bad so if I don't turn the steering wheel till it locks, it eventually trickles a parasidic drain.
I even checked my power door locks and power seat controls but they were fine.
@@lrg863 did that stop the theft light from blinking??
@@whiteyfisk9769 yes, so far it seams it was the key ignition causing the drain. Still haven't ordered another after market from Amazon but I will soon.
@@lrg863 yep gotta pick steering wheel. Won't fix theft light blinking tho. Hope it helps
Didn't work...🤔🤔🤔😤😤😤
Thank you!
God is good brother!
All the time. Hope it help
ITS A KNOWN FORD ISSUE!!! THE FUSE SLOT NUMBER 27 IS BAD. YOU NEED TO BUY A 25.00 REROUTING THING AND SWITCH THE FUSE TO AN EMPTY SLOT!!
All fuses good still no start
Ignition switch fuse F1.111
Same thing to make your truck turn on clean out your camshaft sensor
Traducelo en espanis
GaD is god
Wireing for 1999
P
Help me out loud
Mine P0174 see my video 1999 f150 triton
You stay so long just to replace a fus , short videos are helpfull
I have a 2005 F150. I fixed a grounded brake wire to my lights and it kicked the anti theft on.
I've pulled the #203 Relay and swapped it with my tow light relay #201. The anti theft light on the dash went away but still not starting
Relentless Remag sorry to hear that. I’m not sure what the problem can be other then what was my problem. Could have one of the relays that are bad even tho you swapped them and both run of the anti theft. Also check your fuse box to make sure that one of the fuses dont have a hair crack line. Sometimes you can not see it by looking from top of fuse. Pull them out and check. Also learn that under the steering column by removing the cover. There is a small black box that sits on the center of the steering cloumn. That’s your anti theft box. Try also disconnecting your positive pole from the battery and plug it back on in the morning. Best of luck. Hope this help.
@@hectorflores6073 can I disconnect that anti theft box by the column?
I guess you could but I’m not sure if that will bypass the anti theft