**Digital Multimeter Testing Voltage** amzn.to/2KQwiuX **12 Volt Test Light** amzn.to/2ZbFT4D If this video has helped you out consider donating to the the channel with Paypal, thanks!: www.paypal.me/ozzstar
@@ozzstars_cars, In my search for an answer to a no crank no start problem I am actually working on, After having replaced the ignition lock cylinder and two new transponders keys ( Progamed) checked the fuel pump control module and all the fuses and relays related to the problem, I am now planning on checking the Transmission control module! I am not a pro mechanic and I am working by eliminating all possible causes for the ( no crank no start problem on my friend's 2005 f 150. 4.6 Triton 236,000 mi. The truck starts and runs fine every day until after driving it for a while, you turn it off and it will no start until something cools down! ???? Any suggetions before I go loco and pull the last four hairs on my head? Thanks.
@@pancholin1950 proper power and grounds at the starter solenoid. If it's a no start try "jumping" the solenoid and see if it cranks when the truck has a no crank.
@@ozzstars_cars, I will, The other day I got under it and tightened the starter solenoid cable connector nuts and my friend drove the truck most of the day! But the same problem returned! I didn't check the ground wire from the solenoid to the starter! It looked fine but it was connected with butt splice connectors! Thanks very much for your advice, Sir! Stay healthy!
Brilliant demonstration of drop testing, this is fast and elegantly simple! For guys who want to save time, at least a high amp test light for the end of the control wire and drop test of the pos wire will catch most wiring problems. I don't understand why some professional shops don't do this routinely.
how cool!!! I'm about to change my starter and I liked your video, I have a 2004 F150 Heritage and on occasion it does not start, however, after some time it will mysteriously again start. Not sure if it's my starter faulting or my ignition switch. I'm going to attach a wire for testing the "s" terminal (the one from the ignition) on the starter and run it up to beside my battery and leave it there for future testing when my engine again does not start. It will make a quick and easy test if I have a meter so I can see what is happening at the starter motor, if I get no power to my S terminal, then my next check would be the relay that feeds that terminal, do you know bout that???? thanks for your video....
Got a 1998 Ford F150 4.2L Have bought a new starter,new ignition switch,and new starter solenoid on firewall and I still don’t have no crank and no start And relays and fuses are good not blown and have continuity. What could be the issue?
Did you test any of the components like I show in the this video? You may want to watch my other video: ua-cam.com/video/gsVqarZiaUI/v-deo.htmlsi=cqwQw-_7xzujUzGw
@ Yes tested all the components but I’ll take a look at the video you linked sir. Man don’t know how I appreciate you replying it’s been 5 years, and you still helping us out here. Thank you so much
@@ozzstars_carsI did the test light part on the connector and got no light also, so could it be that wire or what could it be, I’m a newbie on cars on electric stuff lol
@@ozzstars_carswhen I turned ignition switch to turn on the truck and put the test light to the - battery post and to the boot wire and had no light coming on but the relays and fuses are all good Could the culprit just be the the boot thing
Looked like a 3 year old starter from NY or MA there! 😁 Great demonstration of voltage drop testing. In the old days I used to go scorched-Earth on any connectors that looked bad (like those did), but a voltage drop test would've saved me from wasting time cleaning things that didn't need it. I got 30 years, 222k miles out of the OE starter on our Grand Marquis. Ford built some quality in those days! 😎 I'm a bit late to the party, but great vid Glen! 👍🍻
Looking good Glen.. don’t miss the rust belt in fact don’t even take the Grand Sport out on rainy days... You earned your money on the one bolt alone.... thx
This is J.W. again, thought I might better explain that all fuses are good and the starter relay has been changed I have also did all the things that were mentioned on another forum and even installed a new neutral starter switch
Is there a relay for the starting system in one of the fuse boxes? Mine has an occasional thing where it wont start or do anything. I have to jump it from the relay to start it. I put a new relay under the hood and the same issue came back shortly after. I also replaced the starter thinking it was that. Is the new relay i installed defective or is there another relay somewhere that sends power to the starter relay when i turn the key?
@@ozzstars_cars no lol advance, but i'll be getting motorcraft this time. Just confirming there are no other relays in the fuse boxes that start the engine right?
@@chriss4365 I don't know what vehicle you are working on. Many cars have an ignition relay (from the key cylinder) in the power distribution box. A wiring diagram is a technicians best friend.
@@ozzstars_cars just Installed a new Motorcraft and again after several successful starts I had to jump it again. I wasted money on 2 relays and issue persists what the hell is it? Ignition switch?
I have aame issue!!, its my dads 1997 ford 150 lariat!, new battery!!, good video i need help too expensive here in California, to take it in a shop. Bern running good till now not starting 😢
I have same truck, but mines an 01 Ford F150 XL 4.2L V6 5-speed manual. The clutch pedal safety switch is bad/broken. I know I can replace it but how can I bypass it all together? Which color wire's need to be connected/jumped together. Switch has a 6pin connector
Great video thanks. My 98 has a no crank no start, the starter is only a few months old. I will use this later today to test my circuits. Do you have anything for the "other side" of the starter? From the key side to test for issue from that direction? Can that even be an issue? (my battery tested fine)
If the trigger wire works at the starter then all else is good with the key ignition, fuse and starter relay. What brand starter did you use and was it 'rebuilt' or new?
Awesome video. What would it mean if I try to jump my F150 from the top solenoid and don't get anything but when I jump the solenoid on the starter itself it starts?
I'm really stumped. I don't know if you'll see this but I really need help. My f150 v8 triton won't start won't crank. I started it yesterday and it made a funny noise. I went to the bathroom while it was running and came back and it was off. No crank no start. Occasionally I'll hear a click. I have full power everything works. I know very little about cars but I actually can't afford a mechanic to do tons of troubleshooting . I'm a father of five and just a regular working guy. I do framing and I have no clue whatsoever about cars. I did the things in this video but I can't draw any conclusions. Is there anyway to tell what the problem so maybe I can fix it?
A bad starter won't shut the engine off. You need to diagnose that the battery is good and the alternator is charging. Did you try jump starting the truck?
@@ozzstars_cars I have an update.... I'm heading some clicking noise going on inside even when the key isn't in it and my doors unlocked and lock at random. The source of the clicking noise is this fuse box under the steering wheel and I can feel one of the fuses jumping. I replaced that fuse but nothing changed
I have a 97 ford f150 xl it cranks over but won't start but if I try to start it and it doesn't start I'll leave it alone and go back to it and try to start it and sometimes it'll crank right up
Yes, the commutator can stop on a dead spot. That is why sometimes smacking the starter can make it work again. Keep in mind the remote starter solenoid on the firewall with Fords can also work intermittently. Have you seen the video I posted on that subject? ua-cam.com/video/gsVqarZiaUI/v-deo.html
@@ozzstars_cars thanks. I tried crossing the solenoid but it does nothing, I walked the starter and nothing. I would figure that even with a bad solenoid by crossing it, it should start
Great tutorial on how to check your circuits before condemning the starter. That dvom would look very nice in a museum 😅 Just messing with you man. Thanks for sharing Glen 👍
The Harbor Freight dvom museum piece worth $4 works like a champ! lol I'm trying to show the average guy has no excuse for not having the right tool to test. Take care Dylan, have a good weekend.
Totally agree. A lot of things can be diagnosed with a cheaper dvom and a test light. So very doable for the average DIY'er. You too have great weekend Glen.
Great video, I could be ignorant to this question lol. What actually told you it was 100% the starter? I understand you tested the battery and it was good. You checked ignition wire and it was good. You checked the 12v cable and ground and they were good. Does this automatically mean it's the starter? Could it have been some other wiring issue elsewhere? Could it be the anti theft feature ? My 2003 4.6 v8 is not starting or cranking, just one click under dash. Battery is good. I tried doing anti theft procedures to reset but that seems to not be the issue. Thanks for any info on this.
@@ozzstars_cars thank you. It turned out to be something totally different in my case. It was the shifter on the column. I guess it wasn't completely in park do to a loose cable.
Thank you for this video. I have a 2000 Ford F-150 4.6L. At a stop, the truck turned off and would not start. No crank, no clicking. Swapped the battery with a new one. When turning the key over, nothing. Just a little thump from under the hood. Any clue on what the issue might be? Thanks in advance.
I have a 97 f150 and the problem I haven't I put in the fuel pump in it new cool packs on it but I'm not getting no fire up from those cool packs and I'm told that that does a there is a cylinder with somewhere on on the firewall to fire them cool packs I miss you cool
I did a starter last summer. Wish I saw this video then lol. My issue today is My 99 F150 4.6 shut off while running a day ago. I started it back up and drove home. Today when I started it, the gauges maxed out (speedo, tach, fuel, oil, volts) and it shut itself off. Then I have no power in the cab at all no dome lights no headlights nothing. I try to crank, no cranking, no clicking, no sound to the fuel pump, no ignition chimes, just everything dead. I popped the hood to check the battery terminals everything tight. I notice the under the hood light is on, the one they put in so you can barely see to check the oil. That is the only thing that appears to have any power. I have no clue where to even begin looking
@@ozzstars_cars voltages all good grounds and fuses all checked. Everything seems to be pointing to a bad ignition switch. Seems like all the systems in the cab, even the dome lights go through that switch. Not sure what else to try. Lucky its a $30 part.
@@ozzstars_cars what happened to begin with is I was at a store and it started making a bogging sound type so I pulled over to cut it off and it wouldn't cut off I put it in first gear and pop the clutch to try to get it to cut off and it wouldn't cut off even with the key off it eventually did but it was kind of a loud thud
@@ozzstars_cars I don't think I miss the motor up it's turning over good when it cranks is it making any weird noises or anything just won't fire up.. apologize for blowing you up just trying to get this thing fixed pulling my last little bit of my hair out.
Okay, I put on a new starter and new solenoid. Still nothing. LOL.. I started to cry because I am an underpaid child therapist but realized this is embarring to the guys in the shop laughing at me. So I sucked it up. Well, I installed a new ignition solenoid and now when I put the positive on my batter and the other black on the solenoid I get 6volts, not 12? I do the positive on the solenoid to the battery ground and I get 12V? Weird. I have fusible links from the batter to the solenoid. What do you think?
Yeahh Great Video !! Ok... yeah I have a 2006 Ford F150... Replaced two batteries(Plow Truck) and now no start... no crank... no dash instrument lights... and anti theft light flashing steady fast... and pulled a code.. saying B1681 Passive Anti Theft System (Pats) Tranceiver Module Signal is not received..... So... opened up to see ignition Tranceiver.... and there is a small gauge wire looped around the tranceiver module..... so I am wondering if someone did that to try and match the resistance so that the key chip would pair to it? Help.!! lol
Make sure its actually in park. That helps them start...just replaced wires battery and starter, and still didn't want to start! Took shifter out of park all the way to 2nd then back all the way to park. Started! Lol
i just had to tell you my 01 f150 wouldn’t start, battery showed 99% charged. i found this video and read your comment, it was the first thing i told my boyfriend to try and it worked!!!! i couldn’t believe it 😂
Please forgive me for jumping in here but I have a problem that has me stumped ? I have a 2007 f150 stx automatic with the 4.2 litre engine, it will not start in neutral or park, but I can pull back on the turn signal arm while turning the key to the start position and it will carank and run, anyone with a fix :-)
Not everyone watching this video will be working on a Ford but if they did and the aftermarket bendix didn't meet the flywheel correctly it can be shimmed.
The only shim a ford has is the flex plate in between the engine block an transmission you cant but a shim for a ford unless you make your own I worked at a starter an alternator shop for ten years I know what I'm talking about belive me
@@tonythompson9049 lol imagine picking out one small detail in a 15 minute video of a guy helping hundreds of people and thinking "AHA! He made a mistake! Nows my chance to show the world how smart I am while simultaneously showcasing my lack of social skills."
**Digital Multimeter Testing Voltage** amzn.to/2KQwiuX
**12 Volt Test Light** amzn.to/2ZbFT4D
If this video has helped you out consider donating to the the channel with Paypal, thanks!: www.paypal.me/ozzstar
My 2001 Ford F-150 wont start, just clicks and smoke comes out of the new battery and engine 😞
Very professionally done! voltage testing and eliminating probabilities never fail! Great work both of you guys!
Thanks Fausto Obeso, we appreciate your comment. 👍
@@ozzstars_cars, In my search for an answer to a no crank no start problem I am actually working on, After having replaced the ignition lock cylinder and two new transponders keys ( Progamed) checked the fuel pump control module and all the fuses and relays related to the problem, I am now planning on checking the Transmission control module! I am not a pro mechanic and I am working by eliminating all possible causes for the ( no crank no start problem on my friend's 2005 f 150. 4.6 Triton 236,000 mi. The truck starts and runs fine every day until after driving it for a while, you turn it off and it will no start until something cools down! ???? Any suggetions before I go loco and pull the last four hairs on my head? Thanks.
@@pancholin1950 proper power and grounds at the starter solenoid. If it's a no start try "jumping" the solenoid and see if it cranks when the truck has a no crank.
@@ozzstars_cars, I will, The other day I got under it and tightened the starter solenoid cable connector nuts and my friend drove the truck most of the day! But the same problem returned! I didn't check the ground wire from the solenoid to the starter! It looked fine but it was connected with butt splice connectors! Thanks very much for your advice, Sir! Stay healthy!
@@ozzstars_cars ll)
Great demonstration of voltage drop testing and it led you to the culprit! Have a great weekend Glen! 😀👍
All fixed. Still getting used to the unique Malaysian starter whine when cranking the engine, dear I say it's almost Chrysler like sounding. 🤭
Excellent video I appreciate you have yourself a good New Year
Thanks, you too!
Brilliant demonstration of drop testing, this is fast and elegantly simple! For guys who want to save time, at least a high amp test light for the end of the control wire and drop test of the pos wire will catch most wiring problems. I don't understand why some professional shops don't do this routinely.
I agree Dave but we know ignorance runs rampant in all career phases. I don't like fixing things twice if I can prevent it. Take care
Good thing you have a helper. I always have to stick the meter under the windshield wipers and look at it threw the windshield.
Good help is hard to find but I got one. ;-)
how cool!!! I'm about to change my starter and I liked your video, I have a 2004 F150 Heritage and on occasion it does not start, however, after some time it will mysteriously again start. Not sure if it's my starter faulting or my ignition switch. I'm going to attach a wire for testing the "s" terminal (the one from the ignition) on the starter and run it up to beside my battery and leave it there for future testing when my engine again does not start. It will make a quick and easy test if I have a meter so I can see what is happening at the starter motor, if I get no power to my S terminal, then my next check would be the relay that feeds that terminal, do you know bout that???? thanks for your video....
Got a 1998 Ford F150 4.2L
Have bought a new starter,new ignition switch,and new starter solenoid on firewall and I still don’t have no crank and no start
And relays and fuses are good not blown and have continuity.
What could be the issue?
Did you test any of the components like I show in the this video? You may want to watch my other video: ua-cam.com/video/gsVqarZiaUI/v-deo.htmlsi=cqwQw-_7xzujUzGw
@ Yes tested all the components but I’ll take a look at the video you linked sir.
Man don’t know how I appreciate you replying it’s been 5 years, and you still helping us out here.
Thank you so much
@@ozzstars_cars saw that video and tested the starter solenoid with the 12v noco battery charger and had no click at all
Could the part be the culprit
@@ozzstars_carsI did the test light part on the connector and got no light also, so could it be that wire or what could it be, I’m a newbie on cars on electric stuff lol
@@ozzstars_carswhen I turned ignition switch to turn on the truck and put the test light to the - battery post and to the boot wire and had no light coming on but the relays and fuses are all good
Could the culprit just be the the boot thing
Looked like a 3 year old starter from NY or MA there! 😁
Great demonstration of voltage drop testing. In the old days I used to go scorched-Earth on any connectors that looked bad (like those did), but a voltage drop test would've saved me from wasting time cleaning things that didn't need it.
I got 30 years, 222k miles out of the OE starter on our Grand Marquis. Ford built some quality in those days! 😎
I'm a bit late to the party, but great vid Glen! 👍🍻
The party isn't over Smitty, it's just starting now that you are here. ;-)
@@ozzstars_cars - Sweeeeet! Well I'm glad I brought the 151 along with me! We're about to crank this thing up here - LOOK OUT!! 😁👍🍻
Looking good Glen.. don’t miss the rust belt in fact don’t even take the Grand Sport out on rainy days... You earned your money on the one bolt alone.... thx
That nut was hard to bust! lol Thanks man
This is J.W. again, thought I might better explain that all fuses are good and the starter relay has been changed I have also did all the things that were mentioned on another forum and even installed a new neutral starter switch
Did you test the ignition switch?
Good repair and diagnostics Brother
Is there a relay for the starting system in one of the fuse boxes? Mine has an occasional thing where it wont start or do anything. I have to jump it from the relay to start it. I put a new relay under the hood and the same issue came back shortly after. I also replaced the starter thinking it was that. Is the new relay i installed defective or is there another relay somewhere that sends power to the starter relay when i turn the key?
Did you use a Motorcraft relay like I have listed in the description? The aftermarket relays are junk.
@@ozzstars_cars no lol advance, but i'll be getting motorcraft this time. Just confirming there are no other relays in the fuse boxes that start the engine right?
@@chriss4365 I don't know what vehicle you are working on. Many cars have an ignition relay (from the key cylinder) in the power distribution box. A wiring diagram is a technicians best friend.
@@ozzstars_cars 97 f150 4.6
@@ozzstars_cars just Installed a new Motorcraft and again after several successful starts I had to jump it again. I wasted money on 2 relays and issue persists what the hell is it? Ignition switch?
Testing and replacement well done, Glen. You have a smart helper there too. He must take after his Mom. 😁
🤣😁🤣
Glen fixed it again! Love the beard wolverine😜
Part time mountain man, part time parts changer. haha 🤣 Thanks Dan, hope.you had a great vacation (holiday)!
I have aame issue!!, its my dads 1997 ford 150 lariat!, new battery!!, good video i need help too expensive here in California, to take it in a shop. Bern running good till now not starting 😢
That old starter looks like a mess. Nice work Glen figuring that job out !
It sure was rusty. See what I did there? 😁
Good job dad and straight forward info
Great step by step instructions and well edited.
Thank you Wyatt
Excellent video Glen👍 Got your moneys worth out of that original star.
I sure did. About 10 years ago I was wondering when it would let go. Craps out right in my driveway, how perfect.
Ozzstar I never get that lucky it always crapped out on me at the worst possible place. Lol
U probably just saved my life
Wow, me a lifesaver? 👍
Good stuff Glen and the shirt helps a lot with the motivation . 👍
I'm into fashion. 🤣
I have same truck, but mines an 01 Ford F150 XL 4.2L V6 5-speed manual. The clutch pedal safety switch is bad/broken. I know I can replace it but how can I bypass it all together? Which color wire's need to be connected/jumped together. Switch has a 6pin connector
Bypassing the switch is not a good idea.
Good video Glen.
Thank you kindly!
channeling Eric O with the Tee shirt! Nice video
Somebody has to look good while wearing an SMA shirt, might as well be me. 😁
Great video thanks. My 98 has a no crank no start, the starter is only a few months old. I will use this later today to test my circuits. Do you have anything for the "other side" of the starter? From the key side to test for issue from that direction? Can that even be an issue? (my battery tested fine)
If the trigger wire works at the starter then all else is good with the key ignition, fuse and starter relay. What brand starter did you use and was it 'rebuilt' or new?
Great job 💪🏼
Solid diag and repair. Cold hard cash. He knows what's up 😂👍
There is no doubt cash motivates Ryan, he knows what's up. haha
I changed my starter on my 2000 F150 and hooked up the battery and the starter engaged and wouldn't stop. What do you think?
Frozen starter solenoid? ua-cam.com/video/gsVqarZiaUI/v-deo.html
Shot solenoid
Hey bud, you're a badsss, thank you for your candidness. No BS. I appreciate your opposition. Needed!
Thanks Jacob!
Nicely done.
Awesome video. What would it mean if I try to jump my F150 from the top solenoid and don't get anything but when I jump the solenoid on the starter itself it starts?
That either the firewall solenoid or starter solenoid has failed or a starter ignition issue.
@@ozzstars_cars You are awesome!!!
Can you just add power to the starter and see if it turns ?to test if the starter is good or bad ? Thanks
Good question. Yes, bench test off the vehicle.
Great video Glen
I like that shirt. Nice diagnoses and repair Glen but where is the rust?
I'm really stumped. I don't know if you'll see this but I really need help. My f150 v8 triton won't start won't crank. I started it yesterday and it made a funny noise. I went to the bathroom while it was running and came back and it was off. No crank no start. Occasionally I'll hear a click. I have full power everything works. I know very little about cars but I actually can't afford a mechanic to do tons of troubleshooting . I'm a father of five and just a regular working guy. I do framing and I have no clue whatsoever about cars. I did the things in this video but I can't draw any conclusions. Is there anyway to tell what the problem so maybe I can fix it?
A bad starter won't shut the engine off. You need to diagnose that the battery is good and the alternator is charging. Did you try jump starting the truck?
@@ozzstars_cars yes it did nothing
@@ceogordo747 so that battery was tested, what were the results? Volts and Amps good?
@@ozzstars_cars the guy said they were. I watched him use testers
@@ozzstars_cars I have an update.... I'm heading some clicking noise going on inside even when the key isn't in it and my doors unlocked and lock at random. The source of the clicking noise is this fuse box under the steering wheel and I can feel one of the fuses jumping. I replaced that fuse but nothing changed
I have a 97 ford f150 xl it cranks over but won't start but if I try to start it and it doesn't start I'll leave it alone and go back to it and try to start it and sometimes it'll crank right up
Check for spark and fuel when it won't fire up. There is your direction to the problem.
@@ozzstars_carshow would u fix it?
Can the starter work intermittently? Mines doing the same thing but once in a blue it turns over
Yes, the commutator can stop on a dead spot. That is why sometimes smacking the starter can make it work again. Keep in mind the remote starter solenoid on the firewall with Fords can also work intermittently. Have you seen the video I posted on that subject?
ua-cam.com/video/gsVqarZiaUI/v-deo.html
@@ozzstars_cars thanks. I tried crossing the solenoid but it does nothing, I walked the starter and nothing. I would figure that even with a bad solenoid by crossing it, it should start
Nice job and thanks !
Thanks, you're welcome.
Great tutorial on how to check your circuits before condemning the starter. That dvom would look very nice in a museum 😅 Just messing with you man. Thanks for sharing Glen 👍
The Harbor Freight dvom museum piece worth $4 works like a champ! lol I'm trying to show the average guy has no excuse for not having the right tool to test. Take care Dylan, have a good weekend.
Totally agree. A lot of things can be diagnosed with a cheaper dvom and a test light. So very doable for the average DIY'er. You too have great weekend Glen.
Great video and great team work. Of course cash is the winner. 👍🏼👍🏼
Sure is, thanks.
love the south main auto repair shirt
Eric will tell you that I look better in it than he does. 😄
Hey guys just a quick tip. If you have a 1999 f150 and its not cranking try moving the shifter to the left a bit more
Neutral safety switch. 🤘
I didn't know what that extra wire was on new starter I just took it off
Ford Edge 20xx wont start, theft led blinking. Disconnect battery then try again. WORKS!
"Cookin' with Crisco." Obviously a man who shares my taste for all things fried...except starter motors of course.
Haha I do like good food but well done electronics isn't tasty.
Good info. Thanks.
Thanks for checking it out
Great video, I could be ignorant to this question lol. What actually told you it was 100% the starter? I understand you tested the battery and it was good. You checked ignition wire and it was good. You checked the 12v cable and ground and they were good. Does this automatically mean it's the starter? Could it have been some other wiring issue elsewhere? Could it be the anti theft feature ? My 2003 4.6 v8 is not starting or cranking, just one click under dash. Battery is good. I tried doing anti theft procedures to reset but that seems to not be the issue. Thanks for any info on this.
Had full power at the starter motor and good power at trigger and a good ground then the starter should spin. No spin = bad starter/solenoid.
@@ozzstars_cars thank you. It turned out to be something totally different in my case. It was the shifter on the column. I guess it wasn't completely in park do to a loose cable.
@@keithsr. the transmission range sensor did its job!
Thank you for this video.
I have a 2000 Ford F-150 4.6L.
At a stop, the truck turned off and would not start.
No crank, no clicking.
Swapped the battery with a new one. When turning the key over, nothing. Just a little thump from under the hood.
Any clue on what the issue might be?
Thanks in advance.
Sorry it is almost impossible to diagnose online. Did you test the solenoid like this vid shows... ua-cam.com/video/gsVqarZiaUI/v-deo.html
@@ozzstars_cars
Thank you for your timely response. Yes, we did test the the solenoid.
When jumping, no start.
I have a 97 f150 and the problem I haven't I put in the fuel pump in it new cool packs on it but I'm not getting no fire up from those cool packs and I'm told that that does a there is a cylinder with somewhere on on the firewall to fire them cool packs I miss you cool
Cool diagnostic! It all makes sense.
Are you sure about that Terry? lol
@@ozzstars_cars Makes me want to watch you do it again. lol
thank you
I did a starter last summer. Wish I saw this video then lol. My issue today is My 99 F150 4.6 shut off while running a day ago. I started it back up and drove home. Today when I started it, the gauges maxed out (speedo, tach, fuel, oil, volts) and it shut itself off. Then I have no power in the cab at all no dome lights no headlights nothing. I try to crank, no cranking, no clicking, no sound to the fuel pump, no ignition chimes, just everything dead. I popped the hood to check the battery terminals everything tight. I notice the under the hood light is on, the one they put in so you can barely see to check the oil. That is the only thing that appears to have any power. I have no clue where to even begin looking
Start with a voltage drop test on the battery terminal cables. Could be a bad ground. Check main fuses for power.
@@ozzstars_cars voltages all good grounds and fuses all checked. Everything seems to be pointing to a bad ignition switch. Seems like all the systems in the cab, even the dome lights go through that switch. Not sure what else to try. Lucky its a $30 part.
On a 99 it's easy enough to bypass the ignition switch to test. You can check to see if power is getting to the relay.
@@ozzstars_cars thanks for sharing your knowledge! I will keep you posted. I subbed to your channel.
motor current 530 amps? they usually draw 175 to 225 amps
Who knows who pulled that number out of there hat? 🤣
@@ozzstars_cars - I think they pulled that from a bit lower down, Glen ... 😃
I replaced my starter starter solenoid under the hood new battery new key switch box under the steering column still no crank...
Did you test the starter relay? I like to test before I guess.
@@ozzstars_cars thanks for looking out I don't have a tester like a dummy I have a little wall tester for 120 and 240 but I got to get me one
@@ozzstars_cars what happened to begin with is I was at a store and it started making a bogging sound type so I pulled over to cut it off and it wouldn't cut off I put it in first gear and pop the clutch to try to get it to cut off and it wouldn't cut off even with the key off it eventually did but it was kind of a loud thud
@@ozzstars_cars hey can I ask you one thing does this year have the mega fuse cuz I can't find it anywhere I know a lot of people say those go bad
@@ozzstars_cars I don't think I miss the motor up it's turning over good when it cranks is it making any weird noises or anything just won't fire up.. apologize for blowing you up just trying to get this thing fixed pulling my last little bit of my hair out.
Okay, I put on a new starter and new solenoid. Still nothing. LOL.. I started to cry because I am an underpaid child therapist but realized this is embarring to the guys in the shop laughing at me. So I sucked it up. Well, I installed a new ignition solenoid and now when I put the positive on my batter and the other black on the solenoid I get 6volts, not 12? I do the positive on the solenoid to the battery ground and I get 12V? Weird. I have fusible links from the batter to the solenoid. What do you think?
Have you considered that the cable can be bad? That's a 6-volt drop....possible resistance, hidden corrosion or broken wire, poor comnection.
Yeahh Great Video !! Ok... yeah I have a 2006 Ford F150... Replaced two batteries(Plow Truck) and now no start... no crank... no dash instrument lights... and anti theft light flashing steady fast... and pulled a code.. saying B1681 Passive Anti Theft System (Pats) Tranceiver Module Signal is not received..... So... opened up to see ignition Tranceiver.... and there is a small gauge wire looped around the tranceiver module..... so I am wondering if someone did that to try and match the resistance so that the key chip would pair to it? Help.!! lol
Anything is possible. You are going to need a wiring diagram to start the diagnosis.
@@ozzstars_cars Kk Thanks !!👍
Did that and it was a small 15 amp fuse that caused it
“Let’s see if Ryan’s sleeping” lol
@imgroot3450 lol. Today is that young man's 20th birthday!!
It took us a long time on the same nut
Lost key wat do I do to start it without chip key but I got it
a replacement programmed, preferably two keys.
lots of New England rust on that old starter. man, wish I had a kid sitting in the drivers seat sometimes...
Cheap labor. haha
Make sure its actually in park. That helps them start...just replaced wires battery and starter, and still didn't want to start! Took shifter out of park all the way to 2nd then back all the way to park. Started! Lol
Neutral safety switch a.k.a the transmission range sensor.
i just had to tell you my 01 f150 wouldn’t start, battery showed 99% charged. i found this video and read your comment, it was the first thing i told my boyfriend to try and it worked!!!! i couldn’t believe it 😂
Automotive would be a flexplate for the bendex
That internal ground on the back 🧐
👍
1st BOOM
Please forgive me for jumping in here but I have a problem that has me stumped ? I have a 2007 f150 stx automatic with the 4.2 litre engine, it will not start in neutral or park, but I can pull back on the turn signal arm while turning the key to the start position and it will carank and run, anyone with a fix :-)
You need a wiring diagram to find where the short is or do a visual inspection in the steering column.
Bad starter....got it.
Mlm
What is mlm?
ford f 150 engen vibrate end loses power
That ain't no good man!
02 f
150
Carquest...not a sponsor.
Nope, $110 out of my pocket and never have to pay again. haha
Put that winter beard away!
You are right, had to trim after seeing the footage! Haha
Ozzstar it’ll be ok in a few weeks, im just not ready for it yet! Lol.
Bro ford dont have shims buddy
Not everyone watching this video will be working on a Ford but if they did and the aftermarket bendix didn't meet the flywheel correctly it can be shimmed.
The only shim a ford has is the flex plate in between the engine block an transmission you cant but a shim for a ford unless you make your own I worked at a starter an alternator shop for ten years I know what I'm talking about belive me
@@tonythompson9049 lol imagine picking out one small detail in a 15 minute video of a guy helping hundreds of people and thinking "AHA! He made a mistake! Nows my chance to show the world how smart I am while simultaneously showcasing my lack of social skills."
2nd Boomish
😁
I have a2004 ford heritage 4.2 v six replaced starter and selanoid good battery just get a click no turn over could it be ingnition