How to diagnose and fix a car with stuck windshield wipers
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- Опубліковано 10 гру 2021
- This video is a real world diagnosis and repair of a Chev Suburban with windshield wipers that would not move at low speed or at intermittent speed. High speed was working fine. There are many videos showing how to replace the wiper control module, but very few that show how to prove the diagnosis before ordering new parts. This video puts emphasis on diagnostics.
You’ll notice that I used a few specialty tools including a Power Probe and a special clamp to remove the wiper arms. These are used because they make the job easier, but you do not need them. A multimeter set to DC voltage, with a jumper wire attached to ground would work just as well, and most wiper arms can be removed without need for special tools. You can use a pin to do backprobing, with a jumper wire and alligator clips to gain access to the back of the connector while it is still hooked up. This technique allows one to safely penetrate the wiring without causing significant damage to the wires or connector.
The wiring and control of most cars are similar, but details such as which wire to probe and whether the module is under network control will vary. So, if you are serious about fixing your own car, a good first step would be to get a wiring diagram and a copy of the dealers repair manual. Fortunately these are available online from third party sellers like Alldatadiy, Mitchelldiy, and others.
Auto repair is inherently dangerous, both with respect to the chance of damaging the car and the risk of personal injury. Only you can assess your skill set, tools available, and stomach for causing harm. Very few repair efforts go by with no complications, so you need to have a skill set that can cope with unexpected problems. Any misadventure you encounter if you decide to accept the risk of DIY auto repair is your responsibility. - Авто та транспорт
Thank you so much for clearly explaining ever detailed diagnosis to explain the functionality of the unit!
Nice very good sharing
Thanks for explaining the entire procedure! Take care, winter is coming, intermittent wiper for road spray.
Thanks for another interesting and informative video!
Great video, thanks!
Inspiration and learning in the same channel...
Nice work, good communication skills. As is the case with all of your videos, that I have watched thus far.
What a kind remark, thank you.
Dave
These little faults makes for interesting videos , I wonder if changing the diode would have solved the issue or not..
Great job ! I bet that diode could be replaced and it would work fine again . Maybe down the road you can find one . Prob does not have to be that exact diode just as long as it is high enough amp .. ENJOYED !!
When I was filming this, I briefly considered putting antiseize on the wiper arm shaft because the splines were so corroded. Then I recalled the time my wiper connection was blown out in my first car, a '63 chev, over 40 years ago. Here I decided not to use antiseize, and I would NOT recommend it. The wiper arms are bound to the wiper shaft by a tapered press fit, held in place by the top nut. Antiseize has some lubricating properties, so under high torque the spline connection could break free and destroy the connection. One day when your wipers are frozen to the glass, you don't want those splines to jump over and mess up the connection. Corrosion can sometimes be your friend! Your only recourse at that point would be to replace all the hardware, which would be a serious, unnecessary complication. Just clean up the splines but don't put anything else on it. When you torque it down, make sure the splines are properly aligned, properly torqued to 18ft lbs, and consider retightening the nut after a first use.
Very well explained. Unfortunately the detail isn't in the wiring diagram for the module as to exactly what that diode is. They can be purchased very cheaply. On some of the older Dodge models, the primary point of failure was those troublesome bushings on the arms connecting the wipers and the motor; they're a press fit and usually fall apart after some years.
Great video!
Yeah. I had some high-current Shottky diodes on hand and even now I regret not dropping one in to that spot to give it a try. However with the uncertainty as to whether the ones I have are rated correctly I chose the safer approach, reasoning that a mistake could possibly fry the motor. It's working fine even today.
I think any hi power diode would be OK the size is a Good clue one out of a microwave may do I do electronic repairs and this may be used to stop back E.M.F. From the motor windings . Only a guess
You know its a genuine GM part when it says "Made in China" on it!