How to Replace Spark Plugs Correctly • Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L •
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- Опубліковано 16 лип 2024
- I apologize for the wind noise and background noise in the video if it’s hard to understand me. I really didn’t think the microphone would pick up all of that with the filter on.
Quick walk through of the proper way to swap the spark plugs on your 3rd Generation Dodge Ram 1500 with the 4.7L engine.
This process can be applied to the 2002 to 2008 3.7L, 5.7L Hemi and 5.9L Magnum Rams as well, along with other vehicles.
• TYPICAL OBD FAULT CODES •
#P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
#P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
#P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
#P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
#P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
#P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
#P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
#P0307 Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
#P0308 Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
#P0309 Cylinder 9 Misfire Detected
#P0314 Single Cylinder Misfire (Cylinder not Specified)
Symptoms of fouling spark plugs can be hard starts, poor fuel mileage, misfires, poor power and performance.
• NOTE •
The HEMI engines are equipped with 16 spark plugs. 2 plugs per cylinder. 2008 + Ram 4.7L also are equipped with 16 spark plugs.
• TOOLS NEEDED •
Spark plugs of manufacture spec or equivalent
3/8 drive ratchet
3/8 drive extensions of various lengths
5/8 spark plug socket
10mm deep socket
Spark plug gapping tool
Dielectric grease
Anti-seize (copper or silver)
Magnetic extension tool
Torque wrench in foot pounds and inch pounds
Compressor with blower tool
• SPARK PLUG TORQUE VALUE •
3.7L Magnum Ram 20ft/ lbs.
4.7L Magnum Ram 20ft/ lbs.
5.7L Hemi Ram 15ft/ lbs.
5.9L Magnum Ram 30ft/ lbs.
Ignition coil pack nut torque spec for all above is 70in/ lbs.
• SPARK PLUG GAP VALUE •
3.7L Magnum .042 gap
4.7L Magnum .040 gap
5.7L HEMI .043 gap
5.9L Magnum .040 gap
• DIFFICULTY •
1 out of 10 (very low)
• DURATION •
45mins to 1 hour (depending on skill set) - Авто та транспорт
Liked and subscribed man thank you so much. I will be watching your channel daily. I just bought a 2009 ram 1500 single cab with 160,000 miles on it. One owner 4.7 L V8. Beautiful truck it has been babied is whole life. What do even better is that I got 2006 grand Cherokee for free and he was going to donate with only 110,000 miles
Planning on doing my plugs next, this was perfect and I'm sure I'll have no problem getting it done. Thanks man.
Right on, happy it’s gonna help you out. Appreciate the support.
Nice to see things being done properly by someone 👌👌
Thanks. Appreciate the support.
Great job !!! I went out and did the job with confidence. The back ones were a fight, but after lots of trying different extensions, I managed to get them. At least my spark plug socket had a good grip on the plugs. Thanks again. Keep making your videos.
Awesome, glad to hear the video helped you out. That’s the key, multiple style extensions and changing to different lengths as the plug comes out.
Definitely plan to. I have more to come later this Summer for the Dodge Ram series.
Clean, Clear and Concise...Super Helpful! Thanks Man!
Appreciate the support and props. Glad it helped ya.
Good video, nice tips and like the crickets in the background.
Thanks, glad it helped ya out. Haha yup, gotta love country living, better than shouting, emergency sirens and such.
Ty for your organization/preparation skills! This was simple to fallow!
Awesome glad it was useful and thanks for the support.
Excellent thorough video...thank you!!
You’re welcome. Glad it was helpful.
Glad to see that he used the plugs that the truck called for and checking the gap hood job and enjoyed the video I watch more of your videos ! Thanks
Thanks for the support, appreciate it.
Not a problem, keep up the good work
Great Tutorial. Doing a Dodge Ram 3.7 L this weekend. Anti-seize and dialetric grease, yeah I need to start using that.
Glad it helped. And definitely those two products have saved my ass and made jobs so much easier for me.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic putting the grease on the coil boot made it slip into hole some much easier. It was an adventure, and successful. The anti-seize gives me comfort as well. Aloha.
Stellar man! Big help thanks bro!!
Awesome, glad you found it useful
Excellent video. Thanks for the help!
No problem. Glad it was helpful for ya.
Nice and clean work..
Thanks 👍🏻
Instructions were great. Thanks. Did not use anti-seize on spark plugs. It is not recommended to use this on plugs and and the plugs taken out did not have it and no issues removing 10 year old plugs. Adding anti-seize can act as lubricant and allow to over tighten and cause issues. Most spark plugs are made with anti-seize metal, such as zinc or nickel.
Thanks brother, it’s really helpful
Glad it worked out for ya and helped out.
Great video.. Never thought about the compressed air before 🤦🏾♂️. Won't ever forget now!!
Yup it’s all about the little things that make a difference. Getting any type of debris in there could lead to bigger problems that’s for sure.
I’ve rebuilt a few engines where it looks like sand or debris got into the engine, literally sandpaper-ing the internals.
Major thing to do if you off-road or live in a sandy/ windy area where debris can get in there and build up.
Air will now be your go to for everything lol I use it no matter what job needs done even if just to clean it off at the end of it all or clean the motor off without water. Even clear out carb lines etc.
Exactly, I’ve got multiple tips and air line extensions I can put on my airline as well to get into places. Super handy.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic for sure its handy for a multitude of applications. He'll wonder how he ever did without lol
If u keep your engine clean you won't need it
Great video ! very simple explanation and video !' Thanks man you saved me about 300.00 bucks !!!
Right on, glad it helped ya and appreciate the support. 👍🏻
A lot of help. Thanks!
No problem. Glad it was of help.
Subscribed! Thanks man!
Thanks for the sub! And you’re welcome 🤘🏻
Man good Video i just wish you did the vary back ones to see the easy way to get them out . But yeah the grease use is a good call .
Thanks, yeah there was a storm coming in as you can hear by the crazy amount of wind noise so I was pretty pressed for time since I needed to get this done while working unsheltered outside.
I’m currently rebuilding this 4.7L right now and doing a power adder (supercharger or turbo) haven’t decided yet so I’ll be sure to do a quick Mechanic Pro Tip segment on how to do it. I’m still waiting to get ahold of a Ford F-150 to show the same trick as well to get the back ones.
nice video thanks for help me save money in this hard time
Not a problem, glad it was useful.
Great video!!
Thank you 🤘🏻
Thank you. That was helpful.
No problem. Glad it helped you out to make it easier.
Thanks bro! Much appreciated ❤
Not a problem. Glad it was of service to ya.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Just did a 2002 ram 1500 4.7l spark plugs.
Pain in the ass were the coil hold down nuts, all 8 were seized onto the studs!
Had to use a portable induction heater to get nuts off the studs.
Spark plugs that came out were.085" to .100" gap.
Amazing that the truck ran as good as it did.🤣
Yeah, I’ve definitely fought with some coil-pack bolts in the shop a few times. Thankfully have never had any snap *knocks on wood*.
And I can thank that to using an induction tool as well. They’re worth their weight in gold, even the cheap ones can still get the job done.
Yeah they’re a little outta spec for sure huh, haha. Definitely be a night and day difference now with a more true and solid spark/ tune up.
Good work
Thanks. What I aim for.
Clean, simple and to the point.
Good job I'm a new suscriptor
Thank you and appreciate the support.
I have used a piece of rubber hose that fits snug on the end of the plug to get it started in the hole.
Yup that trick is definitely a good one. Has helped me many a time back when I worked in the Heavy Duty field, even when it came to threading bolts in due to a tight space.
Thanks.
Appreciate the support.
I always wonder why everyone does the easy ones first ?
Personally for myself it’s always just been a thing to start with the front and work back. Also, should you have an issue with the rear plugs, at least you’ve got majority already swapped in, rather than fighting with plugs that wanna give you issues right off the bat. Like breaking one or the plug is stripped out and just spinning.
Thank you lol
No problem. Glad you found it useful.
How do you do the ones in the back? That would have made a great video.
Like I mentioned in the video, with various sized extensions and a ratchet. Then remove the ratchet and simply remove by using your hand to turn the extension to gain more clearance. You will need to use various sized extensions to get back there.
Next time use your ignition coil to remove/set the spark plug since your 5/8ths didnt have the boot
Great video!
Yup that’s another great alternative for sure. Slipped my mind to use it in this impromptu video.
Thanks for the support.
Here's the number one plug on the left or the right on an 04 Dodge Ram 4.7
On an 04 Dodge Ram 4.7 is the number one plug on the left or the right
The number one cylinder will be the driver side bank. Cylinder closest to the fan shroud.
Firing order can also be found on the intake manifold. It’s stamped into the plastic right in front.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanicmui
I have an 2003 1500 4.7 dodge ram. I am having that low idle engine running ruff and stopping problem. Some say it's "air idle control valve" on the throttle body others say replace the engine. Are you familiar with this problem? If so what would you suggest? Thank you in advance. Great video I plan to replace my plugs this week just to tune things up, I just bought this truck 83000 miles thinking it could be the original plugs...
Replacing the engine would be the extreme thing to do without some considerable proof the engine is no good for the reason of needing a heavy overhaul or rebuild.
The IACV is most likely the culprit in your case. You can easily remove it and clean it with MAF/ carb cleaner, don’t use brake clean as it’s pretty harsh stuff and can ruin sensor electrical/ plastic sensor housings.
Also, if you are pretty certain the plugs are indeed the factory ones, I would definitely change them as you can have some rough idle and running issues from fouled plugs.
With our 4.7’s you don’t need anything super fancy like the over the top expensive plugs. Our 4.7’s are just as happy to run the typical copper plugs. If you’re wanting something a little better, I recommend the ones I’m using in the video.
I’m assuming you have no check engine lights on during this. Other possible issues can be a dirty or blocked air filter/ filter box as well. Make sure the intake box inlet is clear as well, it’s just behind the passenger headlight.
Hope this helps. If you need any further information or other advice to follow up on if the issue is still persisting, feel free to reply back. Good luck.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic thank you! You are correct NO check engine light and it only happens at low idle when applying very light throttle. I did replace the air filter and cleaned the filter box but I didn't clear the actual intake behind the light.... I will check that out for sure.I am not a mechanic but my son and I are having a good time figuring all this out together. We did universal joints on the rear axle and ball joints (upper and lower) last week. We will remove and clean the throttle body and while it's nice and open replace those plugs. Thank you again I will be watching for more tips.
Very informative video. For some reason tho when I finished the truck would turn over but not start😣 any suggestions would be most appreciated
Thanks.
And I’m assuming there was no starting issues before you swapped the plugs? If that’s correct, I’m gonna assume maybe there’s a coil pack not connected fully or the chance a fuse popped for some reason or another.
Check fuses, confirm all coil packs are connected firmly and are snug on the spark plug as well, check crank/ cam/ air fuel sensors to make sure they didn’t become loose for whatever reason while working on the engine.
You can also cycle the key three times fast to the ON position (DO NOT START) and leave the key in the ON position on the third cycle, to see if there’s a code popping up. It will show in the odometer section of the dash once you’ve cycled the key to the ON position for the third time.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic Its not showing any codes. Mine is an 06(not sure if there's a difference) could it be possible I got the packs mixed up?
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic and yes sir it ran fine before I changed the plugs.
@@sportfishtexoma9 If the coil packs were mixed up on reinstall, you’d typically just have it run properly or have a misfire (if one of the packs were faulty) and that misfire would move to whatever cylinder it was switched to.
It’s really odd, I’ve never heard of or dealt with anything in regards to a no start situation from just simply changing plugs. Only way I can see such a thing happening is the sensors I mentioned before, fuse blew, to something was extreme as the fuel pump just happened to crap out at this time or the high end extreme the timing jumped and is now off.
The fuel pump issue I’ve dealt with personally on my Ram, drove for 2 hours with no issues, stopped at a gas station, filled up, washed windows, hopped back in and she flat out died 8 feet later. The pump crapped out. I changed it in the parking lot right where she died.
You can hear the fuel pump prime correct? Should be a buzzing noise from the bed area.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic okay, in the process I cleaned the throttle body while it was still attached with carb cleaner. Is this bad?
any tip on how to remove the spark plug socket when it get stuck or left down with the spark plug when you pull out the extension? i have to use a long nose pliers to pull it out and im worry that im not gonna have enough room if it happens on the spark plugs that is located way in the back. maybe there is a right way to pull the extension up with out leaving the spark plug socket ?
You may wanna check the locking pin (the ball bearing) on your extension. It should be enough to hold onto the spark plug socket and not allow it to get stuck.
Otherwise I would suggest a thinner wall spark plug socket for the job. They do have specific slim ones to avoid such issues as this from happening.
You can also buy true locking extensions that have a slip lock on them that you manually lock and unlock. I have two sets that work amazing for my chrome and impact socket sets.
Otherwise the other tried and true trick is to electrical tape the extension to the socket. Sounds ridiculous but it does work, I’ve had to do it when I was Heavy Duty working on forklifts and other equipment. Especially those where someone’s done damage to the spark plug cylinders.
Hope this helps.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic yes i was able to get that electrical tape tip yesterday here at youtube, i taped the socket today to the extension and looks pretty good. i dont have the courage to replace 8 spark plugs for my 2003 durango suv right now. there is an aluminun tube or pipe running right on top of one of the spark jpkugs, first one on the left if facing the car. i have not figured out how to remove it out of the way once i remove the airbox. thanks for responding.
I'm trying this myself cause the shop wanted $400 for plugs and wires and looks to be not too hard to do myself. Only misfiring on cylinder 1 and 5 but think the coils are fine. Try in tomorrow and see how it goes.
Yeah once you factor in shop labour and their markup on parts, it can get pretty same expensive. It really isn’t hard at all to accomplish.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic tried it this afternoon but was becoming too difficult to remove the connectors attached to the coil packs. I could try it again on Thursday if it won't hurt my engine to wait. If so, may have to get the shop to do the job.
Yeah those little connectors sometimes get clogged up with junk and they’re plastic too so they’re pretty brittle.
Sometimes if you get in there with a pick or very small screwdriver to help push the clip in that helps. Also actually pushing the connector inward toward the coil helps to release it as well.
You can also give it a shot of contact clean/ WD-40 to see if that helps. Doing this has helped me in the past as well.
Good luck.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic thanks, I'll give that a try.
HI I learnt differently about using anti seize in plugs; it is a bad idea because it affects the torque and it causes overtorquing of the plugs.
Yes there’s a wet torque and a dry torque value. This is why you only use a small amount and you do the classic “set the plug and snug it up method to a 1/4 to 3/4 turn” depending on plug size. Also using a proper torque wrench will avoid issues as well.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic Ok then thanks
Thx so much I just bought an 05 1500 with the 4.7. It hasent been started or driven for over 10 years. It has 10k miles and is in factory new condition. Would you please help me with a starting and maintenance procedure. Im changing all fluids dropping gas tank empty it clean it out with kerosene maybe? Then putting it back in with new pump and seals. pulling plugs and put a shot of some sort of penitrant in each cylinder then seal her up put in new battery and fire it off? Maybe run it for a few seconds look everything over then start again and run for a few min. Again im no mechanic just a dumb guy on UA-cam trying to learn how to work on my new to me truck. Thanks for any advice help or wisdom you can offer.
Awesome! Good to see someone saving another Ram from the crusher/ left sitting to rot away.
Excellent plan to drop the tank and replace the pump/ seals. I would drain any fluid left in the tank, flush with hot water and acetone. You can use a soft brush or equivalent remove any debris off the sides of the tank if you’re able to reach in through the pump opening. Let air dry to make sure there’s no moisture left in there before reinstalling. When it comes time to filling it up, I’d recommend some Premium fuel and fuel line/ injector cleaner.
Drop the oil and change it along with a new filter. Take note of any debris in the drained oil. You can also leave the drain plug open and run a fresh couple litres of oil just to help flush any old stuff that maybe still in there. Close the plug and top up the oil.
Pull all the plugs out and I suggest putting a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder to help lubricate. Then crank the engine over by hand with a long breaker bar and rotate the engine a few times (clockwise) when looking at the engine from the front of the truck. While doing so, listen for any noise you may hear or anything that could be of concern. Install new plugs and gap accordingly.
Make sure you have coolant.
Make sure the battery is good to go and has full voltage to crank her over.
Confirm there’s no debris within the intake air box and ducting (mice love to make homes in there). If the old filter looks “okay” then use it otherwise replace it.
Add the fuel like I mentioned above. Prime the fuel system a couple of time by cycling the key. You should hear the pump priming.
Now that she’s primed, start her up. Once she’s started, take note of any leaks immediately. Make sure you have oil pressure on the dash gauge (we’re assuming it works), if no pressure, SHUT IT DOWN ASAP, gauge could be faulty or you could not be circulating oil at all.
If all is well, listen for any odd noises, knocking, hissing, does the engine run smooth. Are there check engine codes/ lights on the dash.
Hope this helps as a start to get ya going.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic yes this is very helpful thanks so much. I'll keep you updated. Ive been spraying all the bolts down with pb blaster and letting em soak, just noticed oil all down the rear diff, looks like its coming from I believe its called the pinion seal? Where the driveshaft mates to the rear diff housing. Im going to get it running first, then b4 I drive it or move it ill tackle the diff issue. Looks like there may b a recall on them. I did find that it seems I lucked out with a 3.92 rear end which should pull my 5 quads very well on mostly flat lands with a few minor hills that being said I am watching your other vids and was wondering if you ever came to resolution on that forced induction option?
That’s a solid plan, snapping any bolts will definitely be a headache and you can guarantee they’re probably gonna be seized up since she’s sat for so long.
Yeah she’s most likely leaking from the pinion seal, it’s not a massive job to replace but can be accomplished in an afternoon and a good chance to replace other bearings/ seals in there as well. Also a chance to inspect the rear differential gears for damage or issues.
And for my truck, I’m leaning towards a supercharger. Utilizing a modified GM 3.8L Eaton M90 supercharger. Should gain me around 65HP across the power band at 6psi. Only downside will be added fuel consumption but I own a truck to be used as a truck haha, I also plan on building a flat deck unit for it this Summer and adding a slip tank in the rear for added fuel as well.
The turbo charger setup is still appealing though, but the instant power of a supercharger will benefit me more in the offroad. I’m at the point right now where I’m just doing a lot of research on other guys that have done both power adders and weighing the pros and cons from their experiences. Out of the two, the supercharger setup is cheaper, will run me around $4,000CDN all said and done.
Could bad spark plugs be the reason that sometimes my truck kinda bogs down a little at a certain RPM?
I've had some people state that it could be the reason, just want to get some more confirmation.
Yup, a fouling spark plug can definitely cause your RPM to bog down while stationary.
Although, other reasons could be a poor condition/ failing spark plug coil, air filter being in poor condition, failing can/ crank sensors etc to name a few.
The cheapest and easiest to deal with off the bat are the spark plugs. They’re abused daily/ they’re continually firing when the vehicle is running and can foul pretty easily if you’re vehicle is running rich especially.
I would start with the plugs especially if your truck hasn’t thrown any codes for the other things I mentioned above.
Hope this helps.
Also, once you’ve pulled the plugs, you can inspect them to see if there’s an other issues going on inside the engine such as say a fouling head gasket (you’ll notice the plug is green tinged or smell of coolant). Etc.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic Thank You for the reply man, I'm defiantly going to start with the Spark Plugs. Also a few months ago I did have to change the Crankshaft Censor if that would have anything else to do with it?
If you already had to change that, then there shouldn’t be an issue. Unless the harness got damaged or the connector didn’t fully clip and is now coming loose. I mentioned this in my Crank and Camshaft sensor install videos as I personally have dealt with this as a mechanic when people have replaced theres or gotten others to do so and the clip wasn’t fully engaged.
i just did the tune up myself and when i was done i got a code of P0303 and I dont know what that is.
Misfire on Cylinder 3. You may have not connected the coil pack completely or the plug is gapped wrong.
It can also be caused by a faulty fuel injector. Make sure the connector for the injector is okay and connected properly still as well.
Reset the code and see if it comes back.
Greetings and good video, I have a Ram 1500 4.7 2004. when I start the engine. I have this problem, the RPM does not rise more than 600, I do not have the engine light on, it could be something related to the spark plugs. Is it necessary to check some sensors that can make this failure? Thank you, I await your comments.
Hello, so the idle stays at 600rpm and doesn’t fluctuate at all, even with input from the throttle pedal? How long has it been doing this and is there any idle/ rpm issues while driving? Does it stall out at all when shifted into neutral or drive?
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic I have a similar issue to this. I have a 2006 Ram 1500 5.7L HeMi 4x4, It starts and runs normal, everything work fine it just sits at 500, sometimes 0 and goes up to around 1500-1600 rpms when going about 60-70. Other than it not showing the correct rpms, it runs just fine and I have no issues in any gear. I figure it's the dashboard motor or the sensor chip in the instrument cluster. Everything else reads correctly. But also I'm not a mechanic so I don't know for sure lol
Hey man, I have a 2004 5.7L, got a misfire code and noticed water in one of the spark plug when about to change, could this be something serious?
Yup it most definitely can be, it can be a sign of a blown head gasket which is now allowing coolant into the cylinder.
But! It can also simply mean water got up into the engine bay somehow (going through large/ deep puddles) and it flooded the spark plug cylinder. Less likely but it happens.
I’m leaning more towards a head gasket issue being a possibility. Did you notice any discolouration like green and did it smell of coolant? That would confirm my diagnosis. Also checking the level of the coolant within the system (when it’s cold! Do not open the reservoir when hot) can also confirm there’s coolant leaking out of the system.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic thanks, mechanic couldn’t figure out where water came and said most likely from head gasket. I plan to replace that just hope the engine wasn’t damaged too bad, runs fine just won’t start at times unless I give it some gas, fingers crossed
You may have just caught it as she’s started to fail which is a good thing. The issue hasn’t snowballed into something much more serious to the extent of causing further damage.
Hello question. I have a 2011 ram 1500 4.7L 110k. Never charge spark plugs before. I call the dealer they told me I need 16 plugs 8 for intake and 8 cylinder. They told me both are different. Of course dealer price was $$$ so I went to. Advance autoparts the person at the counter told me the yep I need 16 but the are diferent part # ok. This where I get confused. Went to autozone and orreallys and the toldme the 16 plugs are the same part number. That is the same sparkplug in all the cylinders. So I don't know now. Can u tell me is all 16 are the same. If the do. What part # is. Or if are different. With parts # are. Preference mopar o NGK. Thank u so much.
For the newer 4.7’s (2008 and up) they are indeed a 16 plug setup like the Hemi 5.7L Rams. Spark plug change interval is 48,000 kilometres on those 4.7L Rams.
Bosch single Platinums are a heat range and a half hotter than the OEM Champions and from reviews on that engine Ram, they’ve given most users better idle stability, acceleration and mileage. If you’re comparing MOPAR and NGK as an option, I would honesty just stick with NGK and keep on top of the spark plug changes. Better performance and cash savings that way instead of shelling out a lot for higher priced MOPAR dealership plugs. Even better is if the plugs go on sale at your local parts store, buy a double set so you can swap them out and have another set in a drawer ready to rock when the next change comes up. This is what I do with our personal vehicles including for oil changes.
Make sure to use a little anti-seize on the threads, copper ideally if you can find it. Hope that helps. And there is no difference from intake to exhaust side on the plugs if memory serves me right.
FR8TE2 is the top plug, bottom plugs are FR8TI332. Get them cheap on Rockauto.com these are the Bosch plugs that came from the factory.
@@jasonbeatty9567 perfect. Thank u
@@adrianmartinez5260 lowers only need changed every 100k miles.
How long do these 4.7 engines last and how many miles does yours have?
Basically comes down to maintenance honestly. Can go forever if you keep up on it and don’t beat on them too hard, as with any engine.
Mines got 732,000kms on her. All original and the engines never been opened up. Pretty good seeing as when I bought her at 420,000kms she was barely running on 6 cylinders and in rough shape.
Since then I’m daily commuted her on the highway, plenty of long trips on the highway, off-roading, towing and hauling mixed in as well.
I’ve had her parked now for the last two years, I did finally blow a head-gasket, have a little bit of the milkshake action in the oil pan one morning when I went to start her and she fell on her face after backfiring hard. I ran her hard scrap hauling for about three months straight, several loads way overweight I should add haha. I take full blame.
Planning on doing a full rebuild later this summer and have her good to go for the Winter. Doing a down to frame restoration and rebuild along the way. Videos will be made and shown on here to aid those in need.
2007 1500 @275k
You know that socket that fit my spark plugs won't is too big for the hole were it goes the spark plug so I can't take it out to replace it ...!!
Are you using a specific spark plug socket? They are thin walled and designed to go into the spark plug cylinder. You can’t use majority of regular chrome sockets since they are thicker walled in design.
Most socket sets will come with two spark plug sockets that cover many makes and models.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic yea that's the problem I'm just using a regular socket .will need to get 1 of those today..
Did you say you got it for $750? How many miles etc.?
I paid $1,600 for my Dodge Ram and she had 420,xxx kilometres on her, roofing company that was selling her originally wanted $5,500 but she was barely running.
She’s now got 732,000kms on her as of last year. I haven’t driven the truck in the last year as I’ve been rebuilding her and the OEM head-gasket has started to let go.
I paid $750 for one my CRV’s though if that’s what you’re referring to maybe?
Is 8 sparks plugs? Or 16 ?? Dodge ram 4.7 1500 2011
4.7L Rams are 8. The 5.7L are the 16 plug design.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic mine has 16 plugs and it's 08 4.7l
Nicholas Smith Ahh good catch, I didn’t notice the year that he’d posted, replied in a hurry more than likely.
Correct, 2008 + 4.7L Rams have the twin plug design so 16 in all for the new designed engine. Copper plugs on the intake and Iridium plugs on the exhaust preferably.
On no I need a 10
What happened to the description of the tool that you buy on Amazon did I just not see that I looked twice
Which tool are you referring to? I mentioned purchasing the spark plugs at your local parts stores or online.
All other tools required are displayed and pointed out at the beginning of the video.
I apologize it was a different video channel guy was telling you to buy a special tool on Amazon for 10 bucks it makes it so much easier to get that back spark plug I thought it was this channel but I found the correct channel thanks for answering though I appreciate it
Oh okay haha, no worries. Using the various size extensions like I show on the table at the beginning can get the job done including accessing those rear plugs.
If need be, you could also use a universal joint paired up with a 4-6” extension and ratchet to get them out of there as well. Personally I just use the shorter extension and has never given me issues.
List of tools plz
List of tools is in the description of the video in the information section.
Update saw that. Can you do a full guide from Start to finish. As I am a complete noob at auto care and trying to save 300
This video is the complete guide from start to finish. But in short form. It is a little hard to hear me, I didn’t realize the microphone picked up the slight wind/ breeze that much till I uploaded it.
Using the tools I provided in the description, and following the video. That should help ya out pretty quickly in saving that $300 for something better.
And don’t let spark plugs scare ya. They’re honestly one of the easiest car care things the average person can do. Especially with these older Rams.
My truck's 2001 ?
Pretty much the same process as my gas 2003 Ram 4.7L.
1990 Doge truck Dakota
Phuk this! Give me back my 300 Ford, or my Slant Six.
Haha true in regards to the older stuff where you could literally hop in the engine bay.
@@That_Bearded_MechanicThat tech was also MUCH less expensive to maintain over time vs. this over-engineered wunderkrap. It might not have been as "efficient" in terms of emissions, but in terms of the footprint they consumed in manufacturing, they were a decent trade off in practicality. My mint condition 77 Dodge Aspen wagon got 23 mpg at 4,000lbs, plus a family camping load, and never skipped a beat. Forgive me, but I do miss that car.
As for those who argue that air pollution is less now because of all those sensors and chips, I would argue that it's partially that, but a lot more because of the export of the industries that produced the smog - to China - were it continues to this day. If all we're now making is paper work, then there should be no surprise the air quality is better. And that Garbage Patch out in the Pacific? That didn't come from the Ohio River Valley Rust Belt.
Good video, but could hardly hear your commentary on what you were doing.
Yeah I didn’t realize the wind was so bad on the mic, I even had a special cover on the microphone to help with that, didn’t work as great as I wanted.
And greasy hands needed no desposable needed!
only 8 plugs?
On the older V8 4.7L engines yes, on the newer 4.7L V8 Dodge Rams, they have the same plug design as the HEMI engines so 16 on those ones.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic thank you very much. i have 2009, looks like i have coil pack ones on top and 8 in the traditional plug spots by the exhaust manifolds
darn technology...lol...no its been a great truck
How do you get to the 2 closest to the cabin?
You’ll need to use the spark plug socket, an extension that’s 4-6” long and ratchet. You’ll be able to reach both of these closest to the firewall/ cabin in this manner.
Once you have the air box assembly removed at the throttle body, you’ll see there’s plenty of room to swing a ratchet.
That Bearded Mechanic I ended up reaching in as far as I could and got em done. My shoulders are killing me and my knuckles have seen better days lol but I got it done. BTW this is the only video on UA-cam I could find that shows my exact engine layout. All the others are for HEMIs. Thanks for the reply man
No problem. Sorry for the late reply, would’ve been sooner but working out of province. And yeah I’ve noticed that, hence why I’ve kinda started this 4.7L Dodge Ram series for people that can find it useful.
That Bearded Mechanic it’s too bad I’m getting rid of my dodge. Your videos apply to my model exactly. Thanks again man. Have a good one
Bro the wind in the background is so bad I could not hear anything you were saying
Yeah I apologize for that. It really wasn’t all that windy that day but the wind that was there got picked up by the microphone even with the buffer on it.
I’m gonna do a voiceover sometime or the next time I do plugs I’ll record it within my shop.
Just one plug
What about just one plug??
I changed all 8 but there’s no sense in a video showing all 8 being changed as that would be long and drawn out, therefore boring to watch. The steps are literally the same for all 8 if that’s what you’re trying to point out.
You can see I have a full set in the beginning of the video and I state the process is the same for the rest including how to access the rear “hard to reach” plugs.
Where's your gloves dude
Haha I typically just wear thin mechanics gloves whenever I’m doing anything in which I’m looking to protect my hands against, suspension work etc.
Spark plug work, not too worried especially since the engine wasn’t hot.
Hes not a liberal, real men dont wear pussy gloves
I honestly believe that, if you are going to make a video to show people how to do something, you should give all details from beginning to end, not that anyone is dumb! But there is a lot of kids trying to learn mechanics, and the only people that understand this video have more knowledge than beginners.
Your criticism is noted for future videos. But this is about as straight forward, to the point and step by step as it gets besides me actually coming and doing the job myself haha.
But I would also like to point out I’ve linked this video to several people who have zero experience when it comes to cars and working on them and they’ve stated this video has helped them with their Dodge Ram.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic it's a good video, it definitely helps, but you know, there is some guys that can't even change a tire or put oil in their car. 😊
But your video definitely helps!!
Ngk that truck well run like crap put autolite and if u use a ext with a wigler on it
Interesting as it runs amazingly well and has since I’ve always used NGK since buying it back in 2014. Hauls and tows on the regular, does off-roading as well along with highway commuting 3 hour round trip every day. Truck has 732,000kms on her and not an issue.
To each their own, but I stand beside what I use on my vehicles as it’s proven and doesn’t give me an issue.
@@That_Bearded_Mechanic u are no mechanic if u do not use oem .O u so stupid u well not know what that means