All that's needed on the auger shafts is anti-seize lube so they don't rust onto the shafts. They only need to spin when the shear pin breaks and you will replace it right away anyway. You should always install an impeller kit (rubber belting on the end of each impeller) so rocks won't get caught in the impeller and burn up your belt. It will also throw the snow farther and keep from plugging up when blowing wet heavy snow.
Yeah I was going to say before I read your description it looks like the PowerMax 824 because in the gearbox there is no automatic turn differential just a big gear. For some reason Toro didn't put the auto turn on there 824 models I don't know why.. I actually returned my e24 electric version to get the E26 just to get the auto turn that makes all the difference in the world. Even a 24-in snowblower without auto turn is a pain in the butt to turn.
I like to file on the spiral shafts around the shear bolt holes to allow the transmission housing and spirals to slide down the shaft without getting hung up.
Now is a great time to anti seize the axle and impeller shaft there’s not enough room in there to put a Zerk fitting. It’s too tight, so what you have to do is take the bolts off the outside and as you are doing or spray lock tite anti-seize spray inside the cracks on the auger shaft if you can take off the bolts on each side and get it inside the bolts area because they seize on there, and there’s just not enough room to put zerk fittings in because the axle is to tight on the augers
I think the graphite you're referring to that they put on was anti-seize. You know that gray stuff everyone uses on bolts, and on the wheel shafts.. That would actually be the best thing to use in most situations because the augers are not actually spinning on the shaft so you really don't need to have grease. You would think Greece is only necessary when something is spinning.. I guess another thing that would work really well would be film fluid that stops rusting but I don't know how long it lasts. Toro really should have put oil or grease fittings on the auger shafts so you don't have to rip things apart two lubricate them. Very odd cuz Toro usually is fantastic and ingenious when it comes to detail and knowing what matters and doesn't.
Alright .... this makes sense now .... If Toro bolted those auger shafts or even sheer pin shafts for that matter .... the shaft turns with the auger sleeve. It doesn't slide around it. There no need for grease in there, as said , except a lube like wd 40 or something to keep rust down .... but I asked at the dealer and he said..... "Why" ??? " They're both turning together " ..... The only reason a Toro would need to turn on that shaft would be for the let's say 1 in 5000 chance where something just strong enough will let it turn just enough that the engine doesn't stall, like the rock example... I hit a rolled up newspaper once ..... stalled immediately.... pulled it out , kept going !
Man ...... That was one heck of a disabling rock !!! I mean it sat in there with that force and got cut but didnt split away ...! And in that particular situation the stall from the motor couldn't take place like Toro claims ...!?!?? It was just enough to wedge itself in there and cause trouble... In situations like that.... especially if you regularly contact larger stones, It might be a better decision to find softer bolts to fit into those auger holes to act more like a sheer pin ...? Damned if you do, damned if you dont ???
Ya, pretty much. I couldn't believe how bugger it got for that rock. Much better if they used softer metal shear pins. Would much rather replace the pin once it breaks vs do that again what a pain. But i am sure it was just my unique situation. Thanks for watching.
I don't know the only 2 stage I've had is 20 yrs. Old ... a 2 cycle ... with power out the wazoo .... Never broke anything but hit mostly smaller stones .... I've never even had the augers greased... they spin and run every year ... The stupidest thing that broke was the gas tank, which was a molded thing ... $70. For that thing .... The plastic carbeurator... [ oh yeah that was a great idea ) $100. For a new aftermarket metal one with a governor screw on it !!! And a scraper blade.. Brought it in for new belts, friction wheel, and center bearing .... $235. But that's 19 winters of pounding.... heck there's no rust on the frame , The R-Tek 2 cycle was a beast .... I'll keep rebuilding this until there are no parts left ...Lol... 😁
I noticed there isn't any grease fittings on the augers to stop them from seizing to the shaft.. So how do you grease the augers on the shaft when there's no grease fittings. Do you have to take apart the whole thing all the time when you want to grease the shafts.
Lubricating spray on outer bushings/bearings ,low temp grease or antiseize on the auger shaft. Any lubricate applied once or twice a season is better than no lube at all. Grease a brand new unit also because seldom does the manufacturer grease anything.(and sheer pins).
Sorry for taking a while to get back to you, Had a bit of holiday time with the family. You should be able to get it out with 2 bolts on the shaft going directly to the rear, plus the 2 sets of bolts on either side of the auger shaft. Total of 6 bolt. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
![How to Fix a Snowblower Auger Gear [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k4rk8AZY7WQ/mqdefault.jpg)
All that's needed on the auger shafts is anti-seize lube so they don't rust onto the shafts. They only need to spin when the shear pin breaks and you will replace it right away anyway.
You should always install an impeller kit (rubber belting on the end of each impeller) so rocks won't get caught in the impeller and burn up your belt. It will also throw the snow farther and keep from plugging up when blowing wet heavy snow.
Thanks for the advice I will look into the impeller kit!
Yeah I was going to say before I read your description it looks like the PowerMax 824 because in the gearbox there is no automatic turn differential just a big gear.
For some reason Toro didn't put the auto turn on there 824 models I don't know why..
I actually returned my e24 electric version to get the E26 just to get the auto turn that makes all the difference in the world.
Even a 24-in snowblower without auto turn is a pain in the butt to turn.
I like to file on the spiral shafts around the shear bolt holes to allow the transmission housing and spirals to slide down the shaft without getting hung up.
That sounds like a good idea. Do you tapper the end? or just take off a little material to slide in easier?
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@TDLDIY just a little around the holes. The holes tend to flare from the lateral movement of the shear pins.
Now is a great time to anti seize the axle and impeller shaft there’s not enough room in there to put a Zerk fitting. It’s too tight, so what you have to do is take the bolts off the outside and as you are doing or spray lock tite anti-seize spray inside the cracks on the auger shaft if you can take off the bolts on each side and get it inside the bolts area because they seize on there, and there’s just not enough room to put zerk fittings in because the axle is to tight on the augers
I think the graphite you're referring to that they put on was anti-seize. You know that gray stuff everyone uses on bolts, and on the wheel shafts.. That would actually be the best thing to use in most situations because the augers are not actually spinning on the shaft so you really don't need to have grease. You would think Greece is only necessary when something is spinning..
I guess another thing that would work really well would be film fluid that stops rusting but I don't know how long it lasts.
Toro really should have put oil or grease fittings on the auger shafts so you don't have to rip things apart two lubricate them.
Very odd cuz Toro usually is fantastic and ingenious when it comes to detail and knowing what matters and doesn't.
Alright .... this makes sense now .... If Toro bolted those auger shafts or even sheer pin shafts for that matter .... the shaft turns with the auger sleeve. It doesn't slide around it. There no need for grease in there, as said , except a lube like wd 40 or something to keep rust down .... but I asked at the dealer and he said..... "Why" ??? " They're both turning together " ..... The only reason a Toro would need to turn on that shaft would be for the let's say 1 in 5000 chance where something just strong enough will let it turn just enough that the engine doesn't stall, like the rock example...
I hit a rolled up newspaper once ..... stalled immediately.... pulled it out , kept going !
The joy of having a garage
Me, I have a backyard and Canadian Weather -14c
Lovely, Just faxing Lovely huh
It sure is nice to have the garage to be out of the elements. I have done a bunch of work outside as well yes this Canadian winter get pretty cold.
Go online and the parts manual. Gives you drawings on how it comes apart
Nice Job,
Thank you
Man ...... That was one heck of a disabling rock !!! I mean it sat in there with that force and got cut but didnt split away ...!
And in that particular situation the stall from the motor couldn't take place like Toro claims ...!?!?? It was just enough to wedge itself in there and cause trouble...
In situations like that.... especially if you regularly contact larger stones, It might be a better decision to find softer bolts to fit into those auger holes to act more like a sheer pin ...?
Damned if you do, damned if you dont ???
Ya, pretty much. I couldn't believe how bugger it got for that rock. Much better if they used softer metal shear pins. Would much rather replace the pin once it breaks vs do that again what a pain. But i am sure it was just my unique situation.
Thanks for watching.
I don't know the only 2 stage I've had is 20 yrs. Old ... a 2 cycle ... with power out the wazoo .... Never broke anything but hit mostly smaller stones .... I've never even had the augers greased... they spin and run every year ...
The stupidest thing that broke was the gas tank, which was a molded thing ... $70. For that thing .... The plastic carbeurator... [ oh yeah that was a great idea ) $100. For a new aftermarket metal one with a governor screw on it !!! And a scraper blade..
Brought it in for new belts, friction wheel, and center bearing .... $235.
But that's 19 winters of pounding.... heck there's no rust on the frame , The R-Tek 2 cycle was a beast .... I'll keep rebuilding this until there are no parts left ...Lol... 😁
I had the same problem I was lucky enough to turn the blade and punch the old pin out and replace with new one
I wish mine was that easy. I was hoping that was all i needed to do.
I noticed there isn't any grease fittings on the augers to stop them from seizing to the shaft..
So how do you grease the augers on the shaft when there's no grease fittings.
Do you have to take apart the whole thing all the time when you want to grease the shafts.
Yes i believe so. I didn't notice any either.
Lubricating spray on outer bushings/bearings ,low temp grease or antiseize on the auger shaft. Any lubricate applied once or twice a season is better than no lube at all. Grease a brand new unit also because seldom does the manufacturer grease anything.(and sheer pins).
What turned out to be the minimum items to remove in order to get the auger assembly out? Thanks!
Sorry for taking a while to get back to you, Had a bit of holiday time with the family. You should be able to get it out with 2 bolts on the shaft going directly to the rear, plus the 2 sets of bolts on either side of the auger shaft. Total of 6 bolt. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Just apply heat ..... and penetrating fluid ....
Thanks for the tips.
It's not really clear where the spring hooks on the back end.
I had the same problem I was lucky enough to get the blade to turn find the pin punch it out and replace with new one little WD-40 elbow grease