Great video!. Was given a mid 90's Dynamark (murray) Machine in good shape but I discovered augers seized to shaft. Heat and air hammer worked fantastic in getting them off. I found that wire brushing the shaft and auger while still hot seemed to make them easier to clean. Did that with the second side and in less than 5 minutes was able to put the auger back on, spinning freely.
You and me both! They still use some of the parts in their newer machines. I don't know why they don't sell the gearbox as an assembly. The customer told me they had it for $75 for a new gearbox, but he was looking at the wrong parts because they don't make it.
Hey Mick, I'm doing well. We have had so much snow that this season has been my busiest to date. Love what you guys are doing with building the Small Engine Community. I don't know if you are interested, but it would be cool to get a channel on UA-cam with videos from all the guys on specific topics. Kinda like a library of everyone's videos. Pick the best videos on specific topics and have them listed under a topic (like analyzing spark plug color).
Yeah I see alot of those worm gears ⚙ shear due to poor lubrication, they only seem to break when you hit something hard. Sometimes even the worm shaft becomes damaged during impact but usually not the case.
@@doublewide6 that would be hard. Maybe just remove the gear completely somehow. Did you get lucky and not have to split the snowblower? Some of those older craftsman had removable side auger housings
@@fillslawncare My Craftsman is like that. Check the levels every year before winter and you shouldn't have to remove it if their correct. My Auger has a nut to fill so the worm gear is lubricated.
I really like your videos VERY informative and you speak in everyday language so even the most inexperienced person can tackle most of the repairs that you discuss and even more experienced people can always pick up a tip here and there !!!!!!
Good video sir. I like the homemade pry bar. Was the auger belt pulley hard to get off? Sometimes they can be tough as I'm sure you know already. You are correct it wouldn't matter if he put shear bolts back in it or not with the auger being rusted to the shaft that bad
The problem with bolts isn't just that they don't shear, they get solidly tightened so that there is no wiggle left as there is with shear pins. That little bit of looseness helps can be enough to prevent binding.
You should! I need a new torch and a better regulator on my oxygen tank. I would buy a used kit and make sure you can get the tanks refilled at your local gas shop before you buy it.
A friend had a bent shaft at impeller. I replaced the entire assembly including augers from another blower because the augers were rusted to the shafts of the replacement. He used it a few years and then moved to an apartment. He gave the blower to me. Old unit but with track drive it works good. I wonder if I should renew my effort to remove augers before I hit something. Hottest heat I have is mapp gas though.
I think they are set up where the engine senses the load and shuts down . I don't know much about them but old heavy icy snow may cause the engine to bog down and keep shutting itself down in protection mode. Fresh fluffy snow should be a good thing.
Do most 2-stage augers have any way to grease them without tearing down to this degree? I’d be tempted to weld a couple of bungs onto each side and add grease zerks.
Smear some antisieze on those auger shafts so they can't build up rust and seize up anymore. But it's dumb to put regular bolts in the auger holes instead of shear bolts. It can only lead to problems, usually more problems and more expensive ones in the gear box. It's like not putting oil in the engine - it's gonna break!
I have always used anti-seize. I use it on shear pins, on the axel with the tires off. The rest I use oil or grease. My snowblower is kept in the garage but I don't want to get to the point where the snowblower is a pain to repair.
When new, take the auger, impeller, rake, rake bushing apart and treat with anti seize. The auger shaft should also be treated with anti seize. Remove the impeller form it's shaft and treat it with anti seize. Repeat this ever 3 years to ensure the entire assembly does not seize allowing easy maintenance.
I picked this one up to replace the entire gearbox assembly. Found out after calling around that they don't sell it. Sometimes learning the hard way is the best way.
@@doublewide6 ya maybe not that long, but it wouldn’t hurt to put on products. What if it was only 5 years old and it did it? It would help, just saying.
@@doublewide6 It works that long if it stays in place. If it squeezes out or otherwise fails to stay where applied, it lasts. I have stuff from 1965 where it's still viable. I would not use it on those shafts. I use lube. Never seize is for components needing to be disassembled at a future date.
My goodness- that's major surgery on a snowblower, it would help if people did the maintenence on outdoor equipment- their would'nt be need for such major repairs like this!
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amzn.to/3rLah4q Oxy Acetylene Torch Kit
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Fiddy fiddy...made me lol! Thanks for sharing this information.
Funny stuff
You bet
Dang Bob you gotta get yourself a knee pad. I felt that pain in my knees when you were on the cold cement 👍 Great video thanks!
I have 2 good ones. I get so excited about my projects that I don't feel any pain.
@@doublewide6 🤣
I thought the exact thing when you only pulled off just one auger. "the other one is still frozen up."
Good video as always, Bob!
I was thinking the shear pins/bolts do nothing if they can't spin on the shaft, glad you figured it out eventually👍
Great video!. Was given a mid 90's Dynamark (murray) Machine in good shape but I discovered augers seized to shaft. Heat and air hammer worked fantastic in getting them off. I found that wire brushing the shaft and auger while still hot seemed to make them easier to clean. Did that with the second side and in less than 5 minutes was able to put the auger back on, spinning freely.
Suprised you can get the gears for them.. good video bud..
You and me both! They still use some of the parts in their newer machines. I don't know why they don't sell the gearbox as an assembly. The customer told me they had it for $75 for a new gearbox, but he was looking at the wrong parts because they don't make it.
Morning Bob.. hope you and the family are all doing ok..
Hey Mick, I'm doing well. We have had so much snow that this season has been my busiest to date. Love what you guys are doing with building the Small Engine Community. I don't know if you are interested, but it would be cool to get a channel on UA-cam with videos from all the guys on specific topics. Kinda like a library of everyone's videos. Pick the best videos on specific topics and have them listed under a topic (like analyzing spark plug color).
@@doublewide6 think it's already being done mate a channel called small engine community
Good video Bob
Glad you enjoyed it
How long did you heat it up for?
Yeah I see alot of those worm gears ⚙ shear due to poor lubrication, they only seem to break when you hit something hard. Sometimes even the worm shaft becomes damaged during impact but usually not the case.
They should design in so you can replace the worm gear without taking the whole thing apart.
@@doublewide6 that would be hard. Maybe just remove the gear completely somehow. Did you get lucky and not have to split the snowblower? Some of those older craftsman had removable side auger housings
@@fillslawncare My Craftsman is like that. Check the levels every year before winter and you shouldn't have to remove it if their correct. My Auger has a nut to fill so the worm gear is lubricated.
I really like your videos VERY informative and you speak in everyday language so even the most inexperienced person can tackle most of the repairs that you discuss and even more experienced people can always pick up a tip here and there !!!!!!
I appreciate that!
Thanks for posting all the links. That is very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Good video sir. I like the homemade pry bar. Was the auger belt pulley hard to get off? Sometimes they can be tough as I'm sure you know already. You are correct it wouldn't matter if he put shear bolts back in it or not with the auger being rusted to the shaft that bad
Thanks Bob. It was fun watching probably not doing.
And that’s what happens when you don’t pull your sheer pins, spin the auger and grease it at the same time!
Happy Friday! 🇺🇸🤙🏻🦅🔧
Most my customers think grease is overrated.
The problem with bolts isn't just that they don't shear, they get solidly tightened so that there is no wiggle left as there is with shear pins. That little bit of looseness helps can be enough to prevent binding.
Good job taking it off
Thanks.
Nice video Doublewide! I need to get a nice oxy-acetylene torch myself...
You should! I need a new torch and a better regulator on my oxygen tank. I would buy a used kit and make sure you can get the tanks refilled at your local gas shop before you buy it.
@@doublewide6 thanks for the tips!
A friend had a bent shaft at impeller. I replaced the entire assembly including augers from another blower because the augers were rusted to the shafts of the replacement. He used it a few years and then moved to an apartment. He gave the blower to me. Old unit but with track drive it works good. I wonder if I should renew my effort to remove augers before I hit something. Hottest heat I have is mapp gas though.
Mapp gas may work.
what do you think of the new snowblower that do not have shear pins?
I think they are set up where the engine senses the load and shuts down . I don't know much about them but old heavy icy snow may cause the engine to bog down and keep shutting itself down in protection mode. Fresh fluffy snow should be a good thing.
Also I almost forgot Thank You
No Problem.
Do most 2-stage augers have any way to grease them without tearing down to this degree? I’d be tempted to weld a couple of bungs onto each side and add grease zerks.
Most come with grease zerks.
Check if the auger is packed with grease or oil. Use whatever the manufacture used. I hate augers that don't have any way to lubricate.
Smear some antisieze on those auger shafts so they can't build up rust and seize up anymore. But it's dumb to put regular bolts in the auger holes instead of shear bolts. It can only lead to problems, usually more problems and more expensive ones in the gear box. It's like not putting oil in the engine - it's gonna break!
What do you put on the shaft to keep the parts seizing together?
grease will work.
I have always used anti-seize. I use it on shear pins, on the axel with the tires off. The rest I use oil or grease. My snowblower is kept in the garage but I don't want to get
to the point where the snowblower is a pain to repair.
When new, take the auger, impeller, rake, rake bushing apart and treat with anti seize. The auger shaft should also be treated with anti seize. Remove the impeller form it's shaft and treat it with anti seize. Repeat this ever 3 years to ensure the entire assembly does not seize allowing easy maintenance.
No suprise the gearbox broke with the auger welded to the shaft like that😐
That's what I was thinking, but I didn't realize it until I was halfway through the job. Learn new stuff on every one.
Neat fix Bob.
I picked this one up to replace the entire gearbox assembly. Found out after calling around that they don't sell it. Sometimes learning the hard way is the best way.
The parts and labor would be so much money for this . I would totally just tell them go buy a new one .
It is going to cost about $300. The new one they looked at was $899 so they decided to keep this one going.
@@doublewide6 wow thats pretty cheap .
Good video!!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Always irks me a little that makers don't put a grease zerk on those augers. Built to fail.
15 snowblowers in for repair. Busy, busy, busy!
Nice job. If only the manufacturer put anti-seize on at the factory. It would possibly make it a lil easier for us......
30 years I doubt anti-seize works that long??
@@doublewide6 ya maybe not that long, but it wouldn’t hurt to put on products. What if it was only 5 years old and it did it? It would help, just saying.
@@doublewide6 It works that long if it stays in place. If it squeezes out or otherwise fails to stay where applied, it lasts. I have stuff from 1965 where it's still viable. I would not use it on those shafts. I use lube. Never seize is for components needing to be disassembled at a future date.
Didn’t help me. The air hammer just wouldn’t budge it. Had to find another route that worked.
My goodness- that's major surgery on a snowblower, it would help if people did the maintenence on outdoor equipment- their would'nt be need for such major repairs like this!