How to tie ropes together for Rappel + Slings!
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- In this episode we go over how one ties their ropes together if they want to use a double rope rappel. Also how we tie our slings together. Always study the safest community standards before attempting anything you watch or hear.
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One thing I see missing in your description of knots for tying slings is a warning to never use a fisherman's knot on webbing!
Most experienced climbers should know this already, but for a new climber going from tying the webbing sling with a water knot to a cordlette sling with a double fisherman's knot could be misinterpreted to mean that you can tie either knot when making a sling regardless of the material.
One test I looked at said the EDK (single overhand) failed at about 8kn from rolling. It said that tying a double overhand (two wraps, not two separate knots) failed at the knot at about 11kn, which was at about 55% of the rope’s strength.
John Coleman great Info thanks! Most knots typically decrease rope strength by half but you are still well with in the safety margins. 🤙🏻
The EDK takes twice the force to roll the next time, so if there is enough tail there is no problem.
You do good work. Keep it up and I will keep watching
Henry Meyer thanks bro will do! 🤙🏻
These are great videos!
Been wondering about this
You can also use an Alpine butterfly as a connection. In that case you would have two tails instead of a loop.
raphael beinhauer wow honestly never thought of that. Might be more snag prone than the EDK though less than the fisherman’s, very interesting lol but I think I’d tie fisherman’s with the tails too anyway lol 😂 Also there is a wrong way to tie the alpine butterfly that looks deceptively like the right one so I’d shy way from it.
@@BetaClimbers Never seen the wrong alpine butterfly. How does that work? I'm pretty good at inspecting knots though, so I'll continue using it
Check this video I made It show how it can be mest up ua-cam.com/video/CuutMjtG1KA/v-deo.html
Yeah if your good at inspecting it you should be fine I’m not familiar in using it in that way I’ll give it a try
With ropes of different diameters (8mm and 10.5mm), would you use an EDK?
To pull a tag line maybe but wouldn’t put my life on it.
@@BetaClimbers okay, what knot would you suggest for rappel?
@@TonySpinach I would end up doing a figure 8 like I did in the video but I wouldn’t have those knots extra fisherman’s
@@BetaClimbers okay cool, thanks man! 🤙🏻
I thought fig 8 follow thru were at risk of untying?
Or you could do a double overhand flat, like this: ua-cam.com/users/shortsemncBqhOeAs Advantage-- just as easy to tie/untie as the so-called EDK and about as jam-resistant, but stronger. Conveniently also a good knot for tying single or both ends of the rappel line.
Why not just tie a reef knot?
jk
In your thumbnail, i think the Flemish bend shown in the left pane is not dressed properly. The black loop on top should be slipped over the green loop. The result would be tighter, if I'm not mistaken.
Eric Moss yeah I did notice that in the editing lol i did say I was alittle out of it haha also to be honest I put the EDK with the short tail in the thumbnail too, to make it a bit more clickbaity for people that know knots lol good eye!
Thanks a lot for these videos; learning a lot! As someone who's just getting into climbing knots, I have a theoretical question. Could the double-fisherman's knot be a better knot for joining two rappeling ropes in it's "drop form"? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_fisherman%27s_knot#Drop_form It seems like this would have the benefits of the EDK, but with added bomb-proofness.
Wow I have actually never seen that one done. I’ll have to look into this one.
@@BetaClimbers Thanks! Would love to hear your thoughts after you're able to do some research
I had read that water knotted slings can fail if the knot catches on an edge, so have always avoided making my own slings unless I am leaving them at an absail anchor or something and they are not moving. Is making your own slings common practice?
I was taught over 10 years ago by an abseling instructor to tie a prusik loop using the reef knot??? It's super strong, but now I'm not sure ? Any reply appreciated? Cheers
old video but you can tell your not feeling good welding sucks
Wasn’t expecting the fisherman backup that’s nice
Why knot make it a Gibbs bend instead of an EDK?
Putting away the jacket was great!
isnt the edk just an overhand on a bite
Would you trust a double fisherman's knot in static line to make a loop, like a sling, and basket hitch around a tree or rock?
Yeah that is pretty standard. You just need to make sure you have a 6 in of tail
🔥🔥🔥 I always use the double fishermans knot for slings & such.
Really dig the line connections for repelling. I've never connected two lines to repel so I'm curious to how you switch to the second rope with the grigri+ without falling due to releasing gear to switch ropes.?.
Free climbed a 250+ ft flat wall and was repelling down but only had 195ft of rope so I repelled to a shorter part of the wall then walked down to the start of the climb.
Sounds like an adventure. Usually with two ropes (or even with one rope doubled up) you would use an ATC for the rappel. If you didnt have one next best thing is a munter hitch (munters twist the ropes up a lot however) . But it's still possible to use a gri gir, you would have the rope go through the anchor and tie into the end and attach the gri gri to the other side of the anchor. You would then lower your self down similar to lowering some one down like a top rope except you are the one lowering and getting lowered. Also the rope is now sliding threw your anchor this is bad practice because it wears out trees, ect. However if it was with two ropes you would reach the Knot half way down your decent and have to pass the knot that can get pretty complicated and you would most likely need some prussiks. So plan on using a Munter or better yet an ATC.
@@BetaClimbers I use the grigri+ to repel so I can wander and look at stuff on my way down. Also I use a single rope 9.5mm and never double up just so I can get more distance.
Just did a full moon summit\ climb last night here in the Rocky Mountains. Started at 11.5k ft at 9pm and climbed to 14.5k ft. Crazy fun to use just the moon light to climb. Pics on my instagram
I’ll check that photo out sounds rad drop your tag for me again 🤙🏻
Thumbs up just for the stupid jacket joke.
thesoundengine 😂
Couldn't you just tie another EDK on top of the first one if you have any doubt?
Yeah you can I have seen they done. People do get scared that something is going to get stuck in that new loop though. So prob should tie the knots close together.
I did that to make a friend feel a little better....I did say DEATH KNOT several times though...
Thanks for the content! Hope the family is doing well
Sure is, thanks for asking! Hope everything is going good for you as well.