Been converting 223/5.56 for some time. A couple things: Trim after final sizing. Although it adds a step or two to the process, remove the decapping pin/ball expander from the 300 sizing die, then take the 223/5.56 case and size it before you cut with the saw. Then saw cut, debur, put the expander ball back in the 300 die then run them again for final sizing. This stresses the brass less in the new neck/shoulder area (better yet, anneal the brass before sizing and cutting). Be sure to make a dummy round with your bullet of choice and make sure it will chamber in your AR. You may have to push the shoulder back a little more than you think as the sizing die does not make a perfect neck, it still leaves a slight bulge at the shoulder/body junction because of 300's minimal neck. First firing will form the neck better. It's an added pain, but I've found doing the steps like that results in more consistent necks. After all your sizing, check neck thickness, each gun will tolerate different neck wall thickness and some brands of brass tend to be thicker. Trim the necks only on the ones that are too large. This will maximize brass life. As for dies, you don't really need the "tactical" small base dies unless your AR has a very tight chamber, I use Hornady dies and they work fine. No need to work the brass any more than you have to. Lee dies will give you problems as they intentionally have slightly large tolerances (according to Lee) so their dies work the brass as little possible.
Great tutorial. It will make shooting .300 BLK a lot cheaper. Quick tip: a ball micrometer is better suited to measure the neck thickness than a caliper.
Now measure your brass after size. It will be longer and you'll have to trim again. I cut then wet tumble to clean and knock down the burs then decap and size then chamfer/deburr then primer pocket uniform. Wet tumble again with limi shine and beautiful 300 blk brass. I also trim mine to 1.360 so I dont have to trim the next 2 or 3 loads
Just because the die box is black doesn't mean its a "tactical" set. Its a small base, taper crimp set for some AR's and lever guns that have small chambers. Most likely just overworking the brass.
You have the bolt upside down. The nut goes on the top that’s why the Allen bolt has a small head. Turn the silver nut around to the top side instead of the bottom and your saw will sit flush
Be concerned about neck thickness of 300 Blk converted case. Wall thickness is not the same for different head stamps. Finished wall thickness of neck on 300 Blk case should be .0135 or under to avoid chamber jam. Use of Hornady Neck Trimer works well. After neck trim, resize 300 Blk case again. Use universal deprime pin die to make sure tumbler media is not plugging primer hole as last step before loading.
I found PPU and HSM to be thicker. CBC, Winchester, Fiocchi, LC, AAC, etc have all been decent and stay under the 0.013" neck thickness on the converted case.
What should the Neck thickness be? I have a lot of 223 brass and I'm thinking about forming it into 300 blk. Also; what neck trimmer and brass would recommend? Thank you for making this video.
Most flash holes are punched rather than drilled, so there is often a burr left on the inside. It's beneficial to both ignition and accuracy to remove this burr.
Like Edward Lance said, sizing the brass makes it lengthen. You should trim after you resize/form the brass. If you make a video, make sure you’re providing the correct information. Reloading is dangerous. Providing incorrect information can be catastrophic.
If you don't mind me saying, you're creating more work than is necessary. If I may.... Set up your cutting jig so the cut brass will come out measuring the proper length AFTER you resize and reform. Just cut the brass, debur and reform. Done. Yes, it'll cost you a few cases to get your jig set up properly but once it's done, you're done. Oh, I only use Lake City brass.
Man...The one I got 3 years ago is no longer available...but it's still anchored in my Harbor Freight cut saw. I treat it as a shrine in my loading room. Do not touch under penalty of death!
I made my own jig that I could adjust and I tried to get as close as possible but I kept getting undercut (worst) or longer than needed which takes longer to trim later. Finally I figured out the hinge on that saw is the problem, it's not made to tight tolerance so I been meaning to rebuild mine and make it solid with no play.
Been converting 223/5.56 for some time. A couple things: Trim after final sizing. Although it adds a step or two to the process, remove the decapping pin/ball expander from the 300 sizing die, then take the 223/5.56 case and size it before you cut with the saw. Then saw cut, debur, put the expander ball back in the 300 die then run them again for final sizing. This stresses the brass less in the new neck/shoulder area (better yet, anneal the brass before sizing and cutting). Be sure to make a dummy round with your bullet of choice and make sure it will chamber in your AR. You may have to push the shoulder back a little more than you think as the sizing die does not make a perfect neck, it still leaves a slight bulge at the shoulder/body junction because of 300's minimal neck. First firing will form the neck better.
It's an added pain, but I've found doing the steps like that results in more consistent necks. After all your sizing, check neck thickness, each gun will tolerate different neck wall thickness and some brands of brass tend to be thicker. Trim the necks only on the ones that are too large. This will maximize brass life.
As for dies, you don't really need the "tactical" small base dies unless your AR has a very tight chamber, I use Hornady dies and they work fine. No need to work the brass any more than you have to. Lee dies will give you problems as they intentionally have slightly large tolerances (according to Lee) so their dies work the brass as little possible.
I trim to length after sizing, your ammo is more consistent that way.
Won’t the burs be a bit rough on the die?
@@TaintedMojo dechamfer and debur before sizing
@@TaintedMojo best order to do it is rough cut, de camfer and de bur, size, trim to length, then load em up.
Great tutorial. It will make shooting .300 BLK a lot cheaper.
Quick tip: a ball micrometer is better suited to measure the neck thickness than a caliper.
Now measure your brass after size. It will be longer and you'll have to trim again. I cut then wet tumble to clean and knock down the burs then decap and size then chamfer/deburr then primer pocket uniform. Wet tumble again with limi shine and beautiful 300 blk brass. I also trim mine to 1.360 so I dont have to trim the next 2 or 3 loads
Just because the die box is black doesn't mean its a "tactical" set. Its a small base, taper crimp set for some AR's and lever guns that have small chambers. Most likely just overworking the brass.
Excellent video. Could you please cover what you are doing with a neck trimmer ? Do you mean you are turning the outside of the neck??
Very concise and informative... exactly what I was looking for. 👌
You have the bolt upside down. The nut goes on the top that’s why the Allen bolt has a small head. Turn the silver nut around to the top side instead of the bottom and your saw will sit flush
Run the bolt for the center pivot up from the bottom and put the nut on the top side, your chop saw will sit flat on the bench.
Be concerned about neck thickness of 300 Blk converted case. Wall thickness is not the same for different head stamps. Finished wall thickness of neck on 300 Blk case should be .0135 or under to avoid chamber jam. Use of Hornady Neck Trimer works well. After neck trim, resize 300 Blk case again. Use universal deprime pin die to make sure tumbler media is not plugging primer hole as last step before loading.
Whats the name of the neck trimmer you used to thin the neck out? I cant find them online.
Where did you get your neck trimmer at
Where do you get the jig that you put the cases into? Thanks
Zep reloading. They have a website or you can order from Amazon. It's $40.
I glued one up out of wood.... check out short video... here are a few other Ideas.... ua-cam.com/video/3aHsvQJJ2HU/v-deo.html
TC stands for taper crimp, not tactical.
Now that is cool. I've never seen that.
Thanks
Good job mate!
What were you about to say about foreign brass thickness
Just avoid most foreign brass!, too thick..Stay with Lake City/ FC federal American brass, I never had a problem 1000s of rounds made..
I’ve found that PPU and Tulammo brass is too thick causing excessive chamber pressure.
I found PPU and HSM to be thicker. CBC, Winchester, Fiocchi, LC, AAC, etc have all been decent and stay under the 0.013" neck thickness on the converted case.
What should the Neck thickness be?
I have a lot of 223 brass and I'm thinking about forming it into 300 blk.
Also; what neck trimmer and brass would recommend?
Thank you for making this video.
where did you get the holder for the brass
De-burr the primer pocket? Never seen that before. What's that all about?!
Most flash holes are punched
rather than drilled, so there is often a
burr left on the inside. It's beneficial to
both ignition and accuracy to remove this
burr.
Meh. I used to do that early in my reloading phase. I only do it now on magnum revolver brass because I know I will retrieve the cases.
Military ammo has primers that are staked in position. You need to remove the crimps in order to seat new primers.
Cut, resize, then trim people...
Like Edward Lance said, sizing the brass makes it lengthen. You should trim after you resize/form the brass. If you make a video, make sure you’re providing the correct information. Reloading is dangerous. Providing incorrect information can be catastrophic.
where did you get the neck reamer for in inside diameter?
you can get one at midway usa www.midwayusa.com/.
If you don't mind me saying, you're creating more work than is necessary. If I may....
Set up your cutting jig so the cut brass will come out measuring the proper length AFTER you resize and reform. Just cut the brass, debur and reform. Done. Yes, it'll cost you a few cases to get your jig set up properly but once it's done, you're done. Oh, I only use Lake City brass.
TOBORE8THMAN I tried that but that jig for me had to loose of the tolerance
Man...The one I got 3 years ago is no longer available...but it's still anchored in my Harbor Freight cut saw. I treat it as a shrine in my loading room. Do not touch under penalty of death!
I made my own jig that I could adjust and I tried to get as close as possible but I kept getting undercut (worst) or longer than needed which takes longer to trim later. Finally I figured out the hinge on that saw is the problem, it's not made to tight tolerance so I been meaning to rebuild mine and make it solid with no play.
You may buy 1000 new brass cases?
$34 for a piece of plastic is ridiculous. I'll work one up for thingiverse.
ok where did you get the jig from?
Dominick Delfino Links for the saw and jig are in the video description. I am going to have to order both.