when I was learning how to do this my resizing die was around 1/16th inch to high. The round wouldn't chamber. I had to go and take apart 500 rounds. A case gauge is a must. This video is gold!
This is by far my favorite 300 Blackout reloading video. Straight forward and no, "You gotta buy this crazy expensive gadget that we just happen to have in stock." Thanks, Eddy.
Eddy this video is just exactly what I was looking for. I am gearing up to load 300 blackout for the first time. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, great video. it's been 2 weeks since I posted the first half of the comment: I reloaded just over 100 of the blackout rounds and test fired a few...thanks for your great videos, they really helped.
I'm just getting into 300 blackout and this video has helped me out a lot. I have a ton of used 223 brass with dents near the shoulder from ejecting out of some AR's, and this method will bring new life to formally unusable brass. Thank you for sharing your methods with us.
to Brian Cowan, The expander that I use is made by lee. It's called a universial case expander. It comes with two expanders. one is smaller for lower calibers and one large expander for the larger calibers. It expands the case mouth as much as you want. I expand my case just enough for the bullet to just start into the case to eliminate the case from shaving the lead or jacket off the projectile. Brian if I am not explaning this well, let me know and I will try another way with pics. Eddy
Your explanations include triple redundancies. It is clear, you have a history of teaching and instructing. Who needs a pappy or grandpa to learn reloading. We got UA-cam and you. Damn good stuff Eddy!
Eddie an excellent well done video on reloading the 300 blk. I like videos under 15 minutes and yours was perfect. Please keep up the excellent videos.
Great info Eddy. I’ve watch quit a few of your vids. I’ve been reloading for 20 yrs on the same Dillon 550. Now I’m doin 300 BO on it and I’m trimming and sizing all in same pull from Dillon trimming and sizing die. What a time saver. It does work well. I respect all u do and how u do it. But I’ve often wondered why no Dillon equipment. ...thanks for the info. And god bless Texas ...
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! It is very informative and is a lot of help in learning the process before laying out money for tools and materials.
I had issues with foreign brass, ppu, s&b because of the thickness of the case below the neck. I now use only american brass, LC, remington is the perfect case wall thickness for converting. .011 to .012 is whats needed. Thanks for the video.
Well Shoot! I need to get a 300 Blackout upper now. I have a couple thousand 5.56 once-fired brass and I want to get a .30 caliber upper for my AR. The fact that the .556 bolt will fire a 300 blackout and I can reload my 5.56 brass with 300 Blackout makes the 300 Blackout a winner.
I just started loading 300. Might be important to mention the wall thickness at the case mouth should never be thicker than 0.014. 0.013 or less is optimal. Might depend on your barrels chamber as some have tighter tolerances than others. You can either sort your brass to known good head stamps or just neck turn them all. A simple hand neck turner can be had for about $100 and as much as 300 ammo is these days it will pay for itself with the first 200 or so rounds. I have nor the time or patience to sit and check head stamps sometimes I can't even see so I just turn them all. You don't want to work the brass too much. I stay around 0.013 - 0.012. Also as you stated the neck OD should never exceed 0.334 after the bullet is seated. Don't solely depend on a case gauge. Use your calipers to measure. No need for a micrometer unless you're measuring for competition loads.I've had quite a few pieces of brass that were on the "bad" list and would get stuck in the chamber but once turned they were good to go. Great video!
@@chadparker8198 Thanks... The specs show a case length of 1.368" which is close to 1-3/8" (1.375"). Of course, the cutting length doesn't include the resizing yet (shoulder & neck forming).This is getting a little confusing.
@@eddycoleman1232 Hi Eddy Have done some 300. Found out a Lee Die will not completely form the brass. Bought Hornady Custom Grade die set and worked perfect. What is the reason to resize the 223 before cutting. I use the 300 case gauge to check. I will run into a few that will not pass the gauge. Same brass 223 brass manufacturer. Great Videos Harold
I know your video is older but I didn’t know if you said anything about swaging primer pockets on 556 brass or reaming out the pocket to get rid of the military crimp I know from experience it will smash the primer but I was lucky they didn’t go off
I'm a touch confused. OAL on this 100gr rnd is? Length of the case trimmed is 1 5/8" or 1.0625, or 1.3625. Factory ammo is at 1.355 So I'm getting lost. 2400 powder is 16.9gr I dropped to 15.3 but level is still near the neckdown part of the brass. Seems like a lot. I did a few neck downs by hand. Fun! Can you drop me a note, let me know your thoughts. I'm out of spring, tx.
When the brass is resized it is bending the brass to the desired shape, in doing this it will shorten the overall length of the case. So if you cut it to length before sizing it, the case will come out too short after sizing. Just remember once you remove the material you can't put it back. So you're better off being slightly longer because you can remove more material if needed. Hope this helps.
check your inside diameter of the case throats forming cases from another cases causes. build up of brass in throat a 308 inside reamer will help or outside case turning will solve problem been doing 300 whisper for years
Mr. Coleman, you mentioned an EXPANDER die prior to the powder measure, what did you use? Was it the expander rod from the sizing die or a separate die?
expander that I use is made by lee. It's called a universial case expander. It comes with two expanders. one is smaller for lower calibers and one large expander for the larger calibers. It expands the case mouth as much as you want. I expand my case just enough for the bullet to just start into the case to eliminate the case from shaving the lead or jacket off the projectile. Brian if I am not explaning this well, let me know and I will try another way with pics. Eddy
You made it very clear, thank you for the response. I was wondering if you used Powder Through Expander dies, but it looks like you used just an expander die and powder filling separately. Thanks!
I use powder thru dies mainly on pistol ammo, when I am working on the ap press I use the powder measurer, it does not require a powder thru die. I hope this makes since, if it don't get back to me and I will break down the powder measurer and try to show how it works in detail. eddy
Sir I have a question. I'm a new reader and I believe this to be a bit advanced for me. But wouldn't a bit of annealing post second(300 black out) resizing be a good idea? Especially if running fire 223 brass after a couple reloading sessions.
Great video Eddy! I was wondering though, have you found that resizing the 223 to a 300 Blackout reduce the life of the case? From what I've seen normal 223 loaded and reloaded properly will usually be useable for about 5 reloads depending on the circumstances, is this reduced when you change those cases to the 300 Blackout because you're doing additional resizing and trimming?
Eddy, I have three questions: 1. How did you check the length of the cartridge, if the cartridge is too long it won't go into battery? 2. Do .223 and .556 cases require a different powder charge if using the same brand of powder and grain bullet? 3. How many reloads do you get out of the .223 brass? I have tons of PMC .233 that I would like to cut down to 300 BLK. Nice video, but you need to be careful around that saw, I see you been cut at least two times recently before making this video.
If your shooting for accuracy competition you should develop loads for each, but for hunting and plinking you want see much difference, feet per second changes a little and might shoot a little high but not enough to worry about.
remove the handle on your cutting device, screw standard nut on instead. then you could simply use a drill or impact driver to zip them down to size. just an idea?
Hi Eddy! Could you please tell me what the meaning of the 'C' on the end of a measure in grains in a reloading chart? For example, 19.0C gr of IMR 4227. Thanks!
You might know by now but that "C" is used to indicate a "compressed" load. Meaning you will be seating the bullet directly onto the powder because the case will be full.
A quick suggestion, measure your inside dimension of your mazagine, just be sure the tip of the bullet clears the inside wall of the mag and you should be fine. Your reloading book will give you a minimum and maximum col. I try to set my bullets 1/3 of this distance off the minimum. Hope this help, if you are still confused text me jed47@etex.net.
hi ! Need help , i'm searching for my AR15 .300 AAC BLK + 220gn SMK and Vithavuori N110 powder , for SUBSONIC SUPPRESSED reloading data ? ( Not in Vihtavuori powder manual )
Just buy Hornady 190 gr Sub X and call it a day. It’s incredible and you won’t handload anything better. I’m an avid 300 BLK shooter, a handloader, and I don’t get paid by Hornady for any endorsements. By a box. You’ll see I’m right.
I respect your thoroughness, but if you are having to trim the cases twice, that means you didn't cut it right the first time. If you used an adjustable stop on your chop saw, and get the length set right, you wouldn't have to trim it twice. And your chamfering fixture for the drill press is cool, but why? When you chamfer a case, you aren't taking off much. Stick the tool in, spin it once and you are done. Using a power tool for chamfering looks like a recipe for short cases. If you are putting so much effort into chamfering that you need a power tool, it's a sign that you aren't chamfering, you are shortening.
You have to love reloading to make it worth the effort. For me life's too short and I don't mind paying for the expensive factory ammo. Don't get me wrong, I've great respect for the reloaders.
I belive at the end your talking about brass wall thickness, being able to use and resize foreign and some american brass will NOT work well or at all!. I use only lake city brass after cutting and sizing, I'm getting a constant wall thickness of around ten thousands, or a pinch less.. Iv'e seen some foreign brass at 12-13-14 thousands, and is way too thick to chamber or = go into Battery!.. So a .308 bullet at .308 + 0.10 + .010 for each wall = 0.328 thousands at your neck. you are correct at .333 + will start to be hard to chamber in most 300s or not at all.. Everyone should be checking their wall thickness at the neck right after forming, and chamfering inside and outside of thier cases..........
I need a pot of coffee and a couple of hours with this guy......
And maybe a few range days too..
I'm needing 2 pots of coffee and a note pad and a day with him i know he has alot more knowledge about reloading then most will ever have
@@mikebeddingfield2144 True.
when I was learning how to do this my resizing die was around 1/16th inch to high. The round wouldn't chamber. I had to go and take apart 500 rounds. A case gauge is a must. This video is gold!
I had to do the same thing, thanks for your comments. Eddy
Case trimmer and caliper
Also get go ,no go primer pocket gauges. Especially if using found range brass or re manufactured brass. At Brownells $25.00 for lg and sm pocket..
This is by far my favorite 300 Blackout reloading video. Straight forward and no, "You gotta buy this crazy expensive gadget that we just happen to have in stock." Thanks, Eddy.
Very good 👍 I like the detail and the explanation of everything. Talking slow and thoroughly. Very well done sir! Thank you
One of the best techniques videos I have watched on 300 blackout case development!
Eddy this video is just exactly what I was looking for. I am gearing up to load 300 blackout for the first time. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, great video. it's been 2 weeks since I posted the first half of the comment: I reloaded just over 100 of the blackout rounds and test fired a few...thanks for your great videos, they really helped.
I'm just getting into 300 blackout and this video has helped me out a lot. I have a ton of used 223 brass with dents near the shoulder from ejecting out of some AR's, and this method will bring new life to formally unusable brass.
Thank you for sharing your methods with us.
The dents will come out when you shoot it again, dented brass is just fine.
to Brian Cowan, The expander that I use is made by lee. It's called a universial case expander. It comes with two expanders. one is smaller for lower calibers and one large expander for the larger calibers. It expands the case mouth as much as you want. I expand my case just enough for the bullet to just start into the case to eliminate the case from shaving the lead or jacket off the projectile. Brian if I am not explaning this well, let me know and I will try another way with pics. Eddy
Your explanations include triple redundancies. It is clear, you have a history of teaching and instructing. Who needs a pappy or grandpa to learn reloading. We got UA-cam and you. Damn good stuff Eddy!
Eddie an excellent well done video on reloading the 300 blk. I like videos under 15 minutes and yours was perfect. Please keep up the excellent videos.
Awesome video! Better then all the other 300 beginner videos. No confusion and I understood exactly how and why everything works.
One of the best videos on 300 blk. Thank you!
Outstanding video Sir, thank you for making your video short, sweet and to the point.
Terrific video sir!!! Makes me miss my home town and the wonderful people back home
Thank you sir. Just bought my 300 AAC loading equipment. This was very helpful. God Bless America
Great class. Looks like a ton of money worth of equipment.
Thank you for passing the knowledge. Your passion is appreciated
Great info Eddy. I’ve watch quit a few of your vids. I’ve been reloading for 20 yrs on the same Dillon 550. Now I’m doin 300 BO on it and I’m trimming and sizing all in same pull from Dillon trimming and sizing die. What a time saver. It does work well. I respect all u do and how u do it. But I’ve often wondered why no Dillon equipment. ...thanks for the info. And god bless Texas ...
Imagine being this gentleman’s apprentice. Amazing knowledge. I hope they have a knowledge capture plan.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! It is very informative and is a lot of help in learning the process before laying out money for tools and materials.
I had issues with foreign brass, ppu, s&b because of the thickness of the case below the neck. I now use only american brass, LC, remington is the perfect case wall thickness for converting. .011 to .012 is whats needed. Thanks for the video.
Your shop is awesome!
Well Shoot! I need to get a 300 Blackout upper now. I have a couple thousand 5.56 once-fired brass and I want to get a .30 caliber upper for my AR. The fact that the .556 bolt will fire a 300 blackout and I can reload my 5.56 brass with 300 Blackout makes the 300 Blackout a winner.
Great video. I have the same saw and I use a jig to cut the brass and I use the plastic shield that came with the saw so I don’t cut my fingers off
well illustrated and i love your shirt
thank you, Eddy
Great video Eddy! I'm gonna be trying to load some 300 real soon. Thanks a million,
Excellent video. Will be diving into this when my next suppressor clears.
No wonder why this ammo is so expensive... 😂😂... All seriousness, great job and great video.
Nicely done!
thanks for the comment on the shirt, we tried hard to properly explain the problems encountered when reloading.
Excellent -Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Awesome vídeo! Congrats from Brasil! 👏🏻👏🏻🇧🇷
Thanks for the info. Please forgive my ignorance...but why do you need to size the case, before it is cut?
just to be sure it is sized correctly, the 300 blackout doesn't size as well around the base, my opinion.
Thanks for your time and knowledge!
Best 300 reloading video I found.👍🏾👍🏾. What is the name of the tool used at the end to measure to make sure it wasn't past 334?
Caliper
Thanks for the video, great job!
Great job on the video ..well done!!
Sir, you are absolutely amazing.
Cool video Eddy. Wish you were my next door neighbor!
Great video, thanks for sharing what to look out for. You're awesome. New subscriber
Fingers.... Fingers....Fingers....
He seems to still have all of them at his age and it looks like hes done this a few times. Dont be a rookie and load like an expert.
Yeah, I was having flashbacks to junior high woodshop where the dude behind me cut off four of his fingers with a bandsaw.
Yeah, that got me cringing too
I just started loading 300. Might be important to mention the wall thickness at the case mouth should never be thicker than 0.014. 0.013 or less is optimal. Might depend on your barrels chamber as some have tighter tolerances than others. You can either sort your brass to known good head stamps or just neck turn them all. A simple hand neck turner can be had for about $100 and as much as 300 ammo is these days it will pay for itself with the first 200 or so rounds. I have nor the time or patience to sit and check head stamps sometimes I can't even see so I just turn them all. You don't want to work the brass too much. I stay around 0.013 - 0.012. Also as you stated the neck OD should never exceed 0.334 after the bullet is seated. Don't solely depend on a case gauge. Use your calipers to measure. No need for a micrometer unless you're measuring for competition loads.I've had quite a few pieces of brass that were on the "bad" list and would get stuck in the chamber but once turned they were good to go. Great video!
Great vid, love the T-shirt.
sweet vid pops!! thank you!
Still waiting on the suppressor. Figured I'd start down the "Blackout" trail awhile.
You make it look so easy
Awesome video. What kind of bullets did you use?
Thanks for your video! Question from the 2 minute mark: The Closed Captioning says you sawed off at 1-5/8". Should that be 1-3/8"?
I think he means to say 1.58... still once he necks it down it will be less. My finished brass is 1.58 and has room to grow after firing.
@@chadparker8198 Thanks... The specs show a case length of 1.368" which is close to 1-3/8" (1.375"). Of course, the cutting length doesn't include the resizing yet (shoulder & neck forming).This is getting a little confusing.
just getting into 300 blk pardon my ignorance but I have to learn why not cut the case at the right length rather than cut deburgh then trim deburgh?
Hi Ed
Just getting back into reloading after 40 years. Starting with 300 BLK. Do you think 223 brass is better to make 300 blk cases?
Thanks Harold
yes I do.
@@eddycoleman1232 Hi Eddy
Have done some 300. Found out a Lee Die will not completely form the brass. Bought Hornady Custom Grade die set and worked perfect. What is the reason to resize the 223 before cutting. I use the 300 case gauge to check. I will run into a few that will not pass the gauge. Same brass 223 brass manufacturer.
Great Videos
Harold
When did Winnie the pooh start reloading blackout lol. Kidding aside good info!
I know your video is older but I didn’t know if you said anything about swaging primer pockets on 556 brass or reaming out the pocket to get rid of the military crimp I know from experience it will smash the primer but I was lucky they didn’t go off
Great video eddy.
I'm a touch confused. OAL on this 100gr rnd is?
Length of the case trimmed is 1 5/8" or 1.0625, or 1.3625.
Factory ammo is at 1.355
So I'm getting lost. 2400 powder is 16.9gr I dropped to 15.3 but level is still near the neckdown part of the brass. Seems like a lot. I did a few neck downs by hand. Fun!
Can you drop me a note, let me know your thoughts. I'm out of spring, tx.
Can someone explain why you'd check the length of the cartridge if you are just gonna cut it shorter?
Great video, how did you determine the 0.030" over cam on your single stage press?
trial and error
When the full length die touches the shell holder, thighten the full length die 1/2 turn more, you will be close.
Why is it a good idea to resize the brass prior to cutting it to length?
Thanks
When the brass is resized it is bending the brass to the desired shape, in doing this it will shorten the overall length of the case. So if you cut it to length before sizing it, the case will come out too short after sizing. Just remember once you remove the material you can't put it back. So you're better off being slightly longer because you can remove more material if needed.
Hope this helps.
Please, just tell us which and how much powder, over all length and bullet weight.
I guess I'm a bit late watching this video... but what great explanation and instruction.
check your inside diameter of the case throats forming cases from another cases causes. build up of brass in throat a 308 inside reamer will help or outside case turning will solve problem been doing 300 whisper for years
excellent suggestion
Mr. Coleman, you mentioned an EXPANDER die prior to the powder measure, what did you use? Was it the expander rod from the sizing die or a separate die?
it is a seperate die
expander that I use is made by lee. It's called a universial case expander. It comes with two expanders. one is smaller for lower calibers and one large expander for the larger calibers. It expands the case mouth as much as you want. I expand my case just enough for the bullet to just start into the case to eliminate the case from shaving the lead or jacket off the projectile. Brian if I am not explaning this well, let me know and I will try another way with pics. Eddy
You made it very clear, thank you for the response. I was wondering if you used Powder Through Expander dies, but it looks like you used just an expander die and powder filling separately. Thanks!
I use powder thru dies mainly on pistol ammo, when I am working on the ap press I use the powder measurer, it does not require a powder thru die. I hope this makes since, if it don't get back to me and I will break down the powder measurer and try to show how it works in detail.
eddy
If I am working on a single press then I will use a powder through die, thats the only time. Eddy
Great video!!
Sir I have a question. I'm a new reader and I believe this to be a bit advanced for me. But wouldn't a bit of annealing post second(300 black out) resizing be a good idea? Especially if running fire 223 brass after a couple reloading sessions.
How long do you cut the .223 brass too?
good stuff, getting the 300 reloads to chamber has been a problem
Great video Eddy! I was wondering though, have you found that resizing the 223 to a 300 Blackout reduce the life of the case? From what I've seen normal 223 loaded and reloaded properly will usually be useable for about 5 reloads depending on the circumstances, is this reduced when you change those cases to the 300 Blackout because you're doing additional resizing and trimming?
Anneal the brass. You will get more than 5 reloads.
Eddy, I have three questions:
1. How did you check the length of the cartridge, if the cartridge is too long it won't go into battery?
2. Do .223 and .556 cases require a different powder charge if using the same brand of powder and grain bullet?
3. How many reloads do you get out of the .223 brass? I have tons of PMC .233 that I would like to cut down to 300 BLK.
Nice video, but you need to be careful around that saw, I see you been cut at least two times recently before making this video.
In my opinion, no. Ck case length with a case gage. If you need help, let me know, I will do my best to make it clear.
The book gives you a case length, subtract .010 from the length and this will be your trim length. this is standard on all rifle cases.
If your shooting for accuracy competition you should develop loads for each, but for hunting and plinking you want see much difference, feet per second changes a little and might shoot a little high but not enough to worry about.
Well done sir!!!
Well done, instructional video.
remove the handle on your cutting device, screw standard nut on instead. then you could simply use a drill or impact driver to zip them down to size. just an idea?
Hi Eddy! Could you please tell me what the meaning of the 'C' on the end of a measure in grains in a reloading chart? For example, 19.0C gr of IMR 4227. Thanks!
You might know by now but that "C" is used to indicate a "compressed" load. Meaning you will be seating the bullet directly onto the powder because the case will be full.
Thank you Sir.
How long is the trimmed case. plus or minus thousands
Awesome info
I have reload 7TC decades, is the 300 any harder? (I use a power reamer to true casings, not a harbor freight chop saw)
hello I had quick question in regards to your reloads at 110 grain bullet what is total case length with case and bullet
I am not in my shop at present, will get back to you, thanks Eddy
A quick suggestion, measure your inside dimension of your mazagine, just be sure the tip of the bullet clears the inside wall of the mag and you should be fine. Your reloading book will give you a minimum and maximum col. I try to set my bullets 1/3 of this distance off the minimum. Hope this help, if you are still confused text me jed47@etex.net.
hi ! Need help , i'm searching for my AR15 .300 AAC BLK + 220gn SMK and Vithavuori N110 powder , for SUBSONIC SUPPRESSED reloading data ? ( Not in Vihtavuori powder manual )
Just buy Hornady 190 gr Sub X and call it a day. It’s incredible and you won’t handload anything better.
I’m an avid 300 BLK shooter, a handloader, and I don’t get paid by Hornady for any endorsements.
By a box. You’ll see I’m right.
Excellent! Thanks!!
Great video, Thanks
...curious why you crimp...I'm loading 220gr for subsonic and was told to not crimp...thoughts?
I don't want my projectile moving back into the case. this will cause the bullet to over pressure, could be a very bad day.
Eddy are you still reloading?
Good info. Thank you sir
When u remove the cut case, I cringe when ur finger get about a half inch from that blade. Dude, re-think your process !!!
If you have experience doing that… which you don’t based on your comment, it’s not that close.
I'm ready to do my insides
I respect your thoroughness, but if you are having to trim the cases twice, that means you didn't cut it right the first time. If you used an adjustable stop on your chop saw, and get the length set right, you wouldn't have to trim it twice. And your chamfering fixture for the drill press is cool, but why? When you chamfer a case, you aren't taking off much. Stick the tool in, spin it once and you are done. Using a power tool for chamfering looks like a recipe for short cases. If you are putting so much effort into chamfering that you need a power tool, it's a sign that you aren't chamfering, you are shortening.
What 300 blackout dies are you using?
God bless Texas.....long live the republic....if things goes south this november....break away.
I HEAR you, Eddy
Thank you good video.
thanks great information
hey i have a 300 aac blackout look to see if you would make some for me
Wolf primers...😬... never tried em but I bought a bunch of TULA and had many fails.
NICE THANK YOU
All I learned from this video is I'd rather pay 77 cents per round.
You have to love reloading to make it worth the effort. For me life's too short and I don't mind paying for the expensive factory ammo. Don't get me wrong, I've great respect for the reloaders.
why dont you prime it with the AP press?
I perfer to prime all my cases on a RCBS automatic primer. Many people do and nothing wrong with using Hornady primer tube.
Is annealing unnecessary?
Safety first!
cut to 1 5/8 or 1.360?
It is guys like this that make anti-gunners cry.. This old school guy could build a Glock in his shed with recycled water bottles and bar stock.
Save some time if you size them before you press and de burr, wont you? Seems like you double handle
I belive at the end your talking about brass wall thickness, being able to use and resize foreign and some american brass will NOT work well or at all!. I use only lake city brass after cutting and sizing, I'm getting a constant wall thickness of around ten thousands, or a pinch less.. Iv'e seen some foreign brass at 12-13-14 thousands, and is way too thick to chamber or = go into Battery!.. So a .308 bullet at .308 + 0.10 + .010 for each wall = 0.328 thousands at your neck. you are correct at .333 + will start to be hard to chamber in most 300s or not at all.. Everyone should be checking their wall thickness at the neck right after forming, and chamfering inside and outside of thier cases..........
hahhahaha 5:33 bullets screaming! lololol