Awesome video! Just finished replacing my top bank spark plugs today! This video was very helpful in helping me prepare and plan the job. Took about 3 hours. On my 2010 Dodge Ram, the top bank is changed at 48K miles but the lower spark plugs don't get changed until 96K so I only had to do the top ones at the moment. They were difficult at times, but your video showed me what to expect. Thanks for putting it together.
Excellent video in showing how to change all 16 spark plugs on the 4.7L Dodge V-8 engine. Glad you pointed out the NEED for a Thin Wall 5/8 inch socket to reach the top spark plugs down inside the hole.
This is great. I have a 2008 Grand Cherokee with the 4.7L flex. This video is the most applicable to my need on UA-cam. Your meticulous attention to detail is really impressive and your comments about the boots tearing are likely to save me time and money, not to mention the contribution to the "cursing jar". I will comment back about my experience when I get it done.
FibreMike I sure hope it helps you, I didn't have a video to use so I made this one. You'll be a pro once your all done haha! Looking forward to any suggestions/comments.
Thank you for uploading this video. I purchased a 2012 ram 1500 with the 4.7L engine and had given up looking for a spark plug change how to last fall, then I looked again and found yours. I just can't bring myself to go to the dealer when the time comes.
Your right, there isnt a whole lot out there for the 08's. I just wanted to reinforce what I already suspected was the procedure. Your tips were helpful too. Thanks for posting it!
I have an 03 Ram and this is still the best video I've found for replacing plugs on the ram even though I have 8 plugs to replace :) not 16. I also like the fact you started with the hardest plug to replace 1st, while you still have all your energy and wits about you. How long did that take in in real time?
Good Video, I have noticed when I pulled one off to see how hard they would come off.. what happens is when these boots get soo hot and that don't have silicone they(rubber)when sitting on top of the spark plug they tend to mold itself onto the porcelain part of the plug..this is what I noticed when I pulled mine off it had a rubber ring on the porcelain part of the plug it glued itself to it, so this is what I believe is happening when the boot tears off. That's why its so important to apply that silicone on all rubber areas where they touch. Im getting ready to do mine. Im planning to even (check)apply silicone at the 15k mark, plugs are every 30k(top row) to make sure that silicone keeps it from gluing itself. Just FYI
This was useful. A few points I would add. The top and lower banks use different plugs. I used a set of Champions that cross matched to the Bosch, and I wish I had ordered and used the OEM Bosch. Second, I used 3/8" inside diameter copper tubing, which I beveled a sharp edge on, to slip over the plug, and inside the torn spark plug boot. I tore the upper boot closest to the driver. What a PITA. The 3/8" ID tubing was about $15 from Lowes. (Item 43501). I'm cross-posting this comment on KUSTOMBLACK GUNZ channel, another video of the 4.7L spark plug swap.
The upper bank of spark plugs are copper and are recommend to be replaced every 40k miles. The lower bank are platinum and are recommend to be replaced at 100k.
I just did mine today the hardest thing was disconnecting the coil pack plugs you can use a flathead screwdriver to depress the plug clips you can use a 8mm socket for the airbox clamps a 10 mm and a 5/8 plug socket the hardest 2 plugs are the farthest back plugs on a dodge ram 1500
Great Video, I managed to get a spark plug socket stuck in #2 plug hole. Any recommendation on how I might get it out. It will not budge. I don't think it made it to the spark plug. Any Ideas?
Nice. Thanks. Love your thoroughness and attention to detail. A couple of questions. Is that Craftsman 5/8" deep drive socket the standard Craftsman 5/8" deep socket or a special one? I have a bunch of these and am wondering whether what I have already on hand might work. Second question is what about replacing that lower bank of plugs? What does this look like? No coil packs to remove, of course. Easy enough to get to some of these, but it would nice to see the replacement procedure.
Steven, it might have just been luck on my part because the socket I used is not part of a set I own, but it is a thin wall Craftsman socket. As for your second question, replacing the lower set was not difficult but does require patience. I started in the back (most difficult) and moved forward, so it only got easier.
I can't thank you enough for going out of your way to respond to my question on a video you posted a while ago now. I appreciate it. And I'm off to change all 16 plugs...
just changed upper and lower plugs on 2008 4.7. plugs they were very tight. had to use freeze off to get several out. but they finally came. you will need that thin thin wall deepwell socket. we grinded one off to make work...suggest you have a few new boots and some long needle nose pliers to dig out boots that rip. suggest you use di-electric grease and anti seize just like this guy shows to make it easier the next time and to prevent those boots from ripping. now I had some small amount of oil on a few plugs and am trying to figure out if and what I need to do about that
Trying to make up my mind , Me or Dodge to change plugs . Must say after watching your video I feel much better about trying it my self . Hope everything on my truck comes apart as easy as yours and nothing is stuck after cooking for 100K . Thanks for your video , Spencer .
Spencer Boaz If you have any questions or run into a situation feel free to send me a reply and I'll do my best to respond promptly. One quick tip. I've heard that some people have trouble with the plug boots tearing. I would suggest compressed air if you have it, then some lubricant and let it sit a few minuted, then compressed air again. After that procedure give the boots a twisting motion, back and forth about an 8th turn, just enough to break the seal before you try pulling them out. Have fun!
Good Video but plan on a couple hour job and take your time. Lower Passenger back plug and Driver side back 2 plugs are most difficult but not real hard to get out. I put a small round magnet in a regular 5/8 Deep socket to get plugs out. The magnet holds the plug in the socket well. Truck runs great now after 123.000 miles on the old plugs. Also the Bosh plugs in this video is the same plug the factory used.
I got a 2010 and i being looking for videos to replace my spark plugs and i cant find any!!!! But i find this one i don't know if there's not a lot of this 4.7 flex fuel motor but your vidio is good tnx ( GRACIAS AMIGO SALUDOS)😉
v wilborn, It took me about 3.5 hrs. in real time. I tend to be pretty meticulous, plus I was often adjusting the camera to capture the right angles. It was also my first time so there's a learning curve there. Now I'm a pro and could get it done in about an hour, but I'm done so... lol
Great video - I'm due to change all 16 plugs here shortly. I attempted to change out the top bank of plugs on my own a few years back but I ran into an issue with the coil pack boots that connect to the top of the plugs getting stuck on the plug itself and wanting to rip apart in the spark plug chamber. I'm thinking that perhaps the compressed air being shot down into the chamber might loosen things up? I ended up going to the dealer to have them finish, it would have been a piece of cake if it weren't for the boots ripping on me. At any rate, thanks for sharing this.
Brandon, I didn't have an issue with the boots getting stuck but I can understand how that could happen. I would used compressed air to remove any settle dust and debris, then I would spray some lubricant in the socket (just a small amount) and give it some time to penetrate. Next, before attempting to remove the coil twist it a few times to help release the boot from the plug socket. You could even spray a little more penetrating fluid to get deeper into the socket. After you've removed to coil assy. use compressed air again but cover with a rag because you'll have the lubricant blowing out this time. Be sure to use dielectric silicone grease when reinstalling.
Great tips! It will definately help save me some time. I have 2009 Ram 1500, 135,000 miles. First time to change any plugs...😳. Could I put iridiums up top and extend change time? Thank you!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video....my question is , when do I know when I need to do this? I have a 111 k on my engine I have not done any tune up to it. I bought it when it had 32 on it 3 years ago this fall and its a 2008 . how much are the parts cost for the plugs and the coils and do I need to replace the coils too?
Hi David, I think I spent about $130 for the plugs. Unless you have obvious damage to your coils, they should be OK to keep.There is more useful information in the comment on this video.The spark plugs located under the coils are a standard plug and must be changed every 30,000 miles (50 000 km) The spark plugs located on the side of the engine are a premium plug and must be changed every 102,000 miles (170 000 km)." Also the plugs under the coils are Bosch FR8TE2 (Nickel Yttrium) Gap .039 The plugs that are connected to the wire are Bosch FR8T1332 (Iridium) Gap .051
Have a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7l FLEX. ** *A quick tip to everyone moaning and groaning over the back spark plugs, go under the truck to remove them from both sides, you have plenty of room.*** Way easier to remove and install. You'll have to use his technique to torque them from the top though.
Very good video. I think the bolts that hold the coil packs on have to be retorqued to spec..Do you know what the spec is? I will try to find it, and if I do I will post it here.
I bought Bosch Platinum Spark Plug Part Number: 6725 and Bosch Iridium Spark Plug Part Number: 9664 from autozone. Will these work? Can't seem to find good info on they actually take.
do you know if I can use copper plugs on both banks , upper and lower , or does upper needs to be copper plugs , and lower platinum plugs ? , great video BTW .
Very nice video mr!! Thank you so much! I'm thinking of changing mine. Is a 2010 Laramie 1500 should be about the same right?? Thankd once again for taking the time of making such a sharp video!!
Hello what means Upper and Lower Bank? 8 yttrium Plugs left side, and 8 iridium Plugs Right side? Or means Upper under the Coils and down under the coil cables? Thanks for help
The "Upper" plugs are the ones located directly (Under) the coil. When you remove the coils you are unplugging them from the upper banks of plugs. The "Lower" banks of plugs are the ones that are connected via the spark plug cable. Hope that helps!
Good video.. I'm going to try to change my first set this weekend. Quick question So the first set that need to be changed at 40k, is that the top 8 (four on each side)? Also I just need to change the spark plugs not the wires right?
Keepingitreal98 Yes, the plugs on top (upper bank) (the ones plugged into the bottom of the coil) change at 30k. The (lower bank) at 100k. Unless your cables are showing signs of wear or your experiencing rough engine performance or misfiring, the cables should be fine. Be careful when removing the coils. Use WD40 or similar along with compressed air to help penetrate the seal created by the rubber boot. You may need to work it a bit by rotating it incrementally and in small amounts to allow the penetrating oil to get in there before finally pulling it out. Take your time and you should be fine in most cases. **use dielectric silicone grease when reinstalling plug to rubber boot connections**
I would say yes, there are 16 total plugs. Remove the air intake manifold and you will see 8 ignition coils. Each coil plugs into a spark plug at it's base that is located on the top of the cylinder head. Each coil also has a cable attached that connects a spark plug located on the side of the cylinder head above the exhaust manifold. So each coil powers two plugs, one at it's base that the coil plugs directly into, and one connected using the spark plug cable. Look closely at the video and you will see two spark plugs for each coil.
Thank you very much for posting this it was incredibly helpful and intuitive. I did get a check engine light and the error code was P0113 after the tune up. This calls for the IAT sensor (air charge temp sensor) to be looked into. I simply purchased a new sensor and installed it in the intake cover/housing (large plastic bit with 4.7 Litre embossed onto it) and it worked a treat. I've popped in a link in order to possibly help someone else with the same issue. Cheers for your efforts. www.ramforumz.com/threads/iat-sensor-removal.56257/
you got the code because you unplugged the sensor. all you would have to do is clear the code. It happens with most sensor if you had to unplug them for any reason.
So I got the rubber piece that broke off the boot that was still around the sparkplug. Obviously I'm going to need a new boot. My question is how hard to u push down on the boot that's on the new sparkplug? I pulled one up a little to see how the suction was and it didn't seem to have the same strong suction as when I first took them off. Is it because I wasn't tightened down like it was before I changed the plugs. I hope it makes sense. Also mine is a 2010 and that first spark plug you did I did but I have the transmission dipstick in the way just a heads up if anybody else does their own plugs and has a 2010.
Keepingitreal98 The spark plugs located under the coils are a standard plug and must be changed every 30,000 miles (50 000 km) The spark plugs located on the side of the engine are a premium plug and must be changed every 102,000 miles (170 000 km)." Also the plugs under the coils are Bosch FR8TE2 (Nickel Yttrium) Gap .039 The plugs that are connected to the wire are Bosch FR8T1332 (Iridium) Gap .051
Hi Scott, sorry you're having this difficulty. I've heard the same from others, but didn't encounter the same difficulties. The preparation I went through may have contributed to helping me remove the coils without tearing the boot. I used an air compressor set at about 80 to 100 psi to thoroughly blast away any dust and debris from the base of each coil. I would also note that my engine was completely cooled down to ambient temperature. That's about all I did to remove the coils. Because your coil boots are tearing I would try doing the same procedure, but add and additional step. After you have blasted the coil base with compressed air I would try spraying some WD40 into the base and allow it to penetrate for a period of time. Do this to each of the eight coils. Then after maybe 10 minutes start at the first coil you applied WD40, and with the 10mm bolt removed, firmly hold the top of the coil and try to make small circular movements. As long as you can see a slight movement at the top of the coil you should be making progress. I would say do 100 small circular movements. all your trying to do is cause the rubber boot to flex slightly and help the WD40 penetrate the socket. Repeat the process to all coils. Now again starting with the first coil, try giving a slight twisting motion. This should also help the WD40 to go deeper into the socket. I know it's a bit of a process, but this is what I would have tried had I experienced the same challenge. Hope this helps.. Good Luck!
L DeRuntz liked your video . I have a 2009 ram 1500 . How did u access the lower plugs on the driver side ?? Those last 2 in the back on the drivers side are wayyy back there .what did u remove to get to then ? Battery ? I have same engine as u
Francisco, I'm not familiar with your engine, but I did a little searching and found that it looks like your engine also uses 2 plugs per cylinder. It's a bit different configuration but looks easy enough. I would go for it! I found some stuff online, one that seemed important was the plug wiring schematic, although I'm not sure I would remove the cables. I would do one cylinder at a time. www.ramforum.com/f76/spark_plug_change_diy-2163/index3.html www.wkjeeps.com/misc/LX/Spark_Plugs_5.7L.jpg Have fun!!
Yes, there are 16 plugs total - 2 per cylinder. Upper Bank uses (8) Bosch FR8TE2 (OEM Lower Bank uses (8) Bosch FR8TI332 Iridium (OEM) Replacement interval is based on miles driven so check your maintenance schedule.
do you know if I can use copper plugs on both banks , upper and lower , or does upper needs to be copper plugs , and lower platinum plugs ? , great video BTW .
+Israel Nino I don't suggest using any variations. I personally would go with the factory specs.Upper Bank uses (8) Bosch FR8TE2 (OEM) Gap .039 Lower Bank uses (8) Bosch FR8TI332 Iridium (OEM) Gap .051
You "could" use copper plugs on both banks, but would need to change them at 30-35 thousand miles intervals. Copper is actually a better performing metal. It just doesn't last as long.
Awesome video! Just finished replacing my top bank spark plugs today! This video was very helpful in helping me prepare and plan the job. Took about 3 hours. On my 2010 Dodge Ram, the top bank is changed at 48K miles but the lower spark plugs don't get changed until 96K so I only had to do the top ones at the moment. They were difficult at times, but your video showed me what to expect. Thanks for putting it together.
Thanks Jim, I'm really glad it helped. I looked everywhere for some help and only found reading materials, and is why I made this video.
Excellent video in showing how to change all 16 spark plugs on the 4.7L Dodge V-8 engine. Glad you pointed out the NEED for a Thin Wall 5/8 inch socket to reach the top spark plugs down inside the hole.
This is great. I have a 2008 Grand Cherokee with the 4.7L flex. This video is the most applicable to my need on UA-cam. Your meticulous attention to detail is really impressive and your comments about the boots tearing are likely to save me time and money, not to mention the contribution to the "cursing jar". I will comment back about my experience when I get it done.
FibreMike I sure hope it helps you, I didn't have a video to use so I made this one. You'll be a pro once your all done haha! Looking forward to any suggestions/comments.
Thank you for uploading this video. I purchased a 2012 ram 1500 with the 4.7L engine and had given up looking for a spark plug change how to last fall, then I looked again and found yours. I just can't bring myself to go to the dealer when the time comes.
I know right? Its a real pain in the pocketbook to take it to a dealer. I let them do the airbags for free and THAT's IT!!
Your right, there isnt a whole lot out there for the 08's. I just wanted to reinforce what I already suspected was the procedure. Your tips were helpful too. Thanks for posting it!
I have an 03 Ram and this is still the best video I've found for replacing plugs on the ram even though I have 8 plugs to replace :) not 16. I also like the fact you started with the hardest plug to replace 1st, while you still have all your energy and wits about you. How long did that take in in real time?
Good Video, I have noticed when I pulled one off to see how hard they would come off.. what happens is when these boots get soo hot and that don't have silicone they(rubber)when sitting on top of the spark plug they tend to mold itself onto the porcelain part of the plug..this is what I noticed when I pulled mine off it had a rubber ring on the porcelain part of the plug it glued itself to it, so this is what I believe is happening when the boot tears off. That's why its so important to apply that silicone on all rubber areas where they touch. Im getting ready to do mine. Im planning to even (check)apply silicone at the 15k mark, plugs are every 30k(top row) to make sure that silicone keeps it from gluing itself. Just FYI
Just a very important tip......... Make sure the spark plug socket is a slim 5/8. (Just like dude says in video)
Where u get a slim socket at?
Is just a smaller wall socket. Your local autozone etc. will have it
This was useful. A few points I would add. The top and lower banks use different plugs. I used a set of Champions that cross matched to the Bosch, and I wish I had ordered and used the OEM Bosch.
Second, I used 3/8" inside diameter copper tubing, which I beveled a sharp edge on, to slip over the plug, and inside the torn spark plug boot. I tore the upper boot closest to the driver. What a PITA.
The 3/8" ID tubing was about $15 from Lowes. (Item 43501).
I'm cross-posting this comment on KUSTOMBLACK GUNZ channel, another video of the 4.7L spark plug swap.
The upper bank of spark plugs are copper and are recommend to be replaced every 40k miles. The lower bank are platinum and are recommend to be replaced at 100k.
Thank you I've been looking for a video forever. Mines a 2010 4.7 L but it looks like it's still the exact same engine. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for a very informative video; clear and straightforward.
I just did mine today the hardest thing was disconnecting the coil pack plugs you can use a flathead screwdriver to depress the plug clips you can use a 8mm socket for the airbox clamps a 10 mm and a 5/8 plug socket the hardest 2 plugs are the farthest back plugs on a dodge ram 1500
Because of this video I save $400 dollars thank you
Thanks for the video. I have the exact same truck/engine. Very helpful,.. even 10 years after (2024) this was published.
I have to tackle this job soon. Thanks for the great video, very well filmed
Thanks for the great video lesson, keep the video going. Still using it in 2020 on my ole 2008
Great Video, I managed to get a spark plug socket stuck in #2 plug hole. Any recommendation on how I might get it out. It will not budge. I don't think it made it to the spark plug. Any Ideas?
Nice. Thanks. Love your thoroughness and attention to detail. A couple of questions. Is that Craftsman 5/8" deep drive socket the standard Craftsman 5/8" deep socket or a special one? I have a bunch of these and am wondering whether what I have already on hand might work. Second question is what about replacing that lower bank of plugs? What does this look like? No coil packs to remove, of course. Easy enough to get to some of these, but it would nice to see the replacement procedure.
Steven, it might have just been luck on my part because the socket I used is not part of a set I own, but it is a thin wall Craftsman socket. As for your second question, replacing the lower set was not difficult but does require patience. I started in the back (most difficult) and moved forward, so it only got easier.
I can't thank you enough for going out of your way to respond to my question on a video you posted a while ago now. I appreciate it. And I'm off to change all 16 plugs...
just changed upper and lower plugs on 2008 4.7. plugs they were very tight. had to use freeze off to get several out. but they finally came. you will need that thin thin wall deepwell socket. we grinded one off to make work...suggest you have a few new boots and some long needle nose pliers to dig out boots that rip. suggest you use di-electric grease and anti seize just like this guy shows to make it easier the next time and to prevent those boots from ripping. now I had some small amount of oil on a few plugs and am trying to figure out if and what I need to do about that
Trying to make up my mind , Me or Dodge to change plugs . Must say after watching your video I feel much better about trying it my self . Hope everything on my truck comes apart as easy as yours and nothing is stuck after cooking for 100K .
Thanks for your video , Spencer .
The Plugs alone cost me about $100 but in the end I saved a bunch of money. I'd do it if I were you.
Thanks think I will .
Spencer Boaz If you have any questions or run into a situation feel free to send me a reply and I'll do my best to respond promptly. One quick tip. I've heard that some people have trouble with the plug boots tearing. I would suggest compressed air if you have it, then some lubricant and let it sit a few minuted, then compressed air again. After that procedure give the boots a twisting motion, back and forth about an 8th turn, just enough to break the seal before you try pulling them out. Have fun!
Good Video but plan on a couple hour job and take your time. Lower Passenger back plug and Driver side back 2 plugs are most difficult but not real hard to get out. I put a small round magnet in a regular 5/8 Deep socket to get plugs out. The magnet holds the plug in the socket well. Truck runs great now after 123.000 miles on the old plugs. Also the Bosh plugs in this video is the same plug the factory used.
Nice! What was the gap settings for the intake (top) plugs? And the gap for the exhaust plugs?
I got a 2010 and i being looking for videos to replace my spark plugs and i cant find any!!!! But i find this one i don't know if there's not a lot of this 4.7 flex fuel motor but your vidio is good tnx ( GRACIAS AMIGO SALUDOS)😉
v wilborn,
It took me about 3.5 hrs. in real time. I tend to be pretty meticulous, plus I was often adjusting the camera to capture the right angles. It was also my first time so there's a learning curve there. Now I'm a pro and could get it done in about an hour, but I'm done so... lol
Thanks for the video! Question - where do I buy a thin wall socket?
Great video - I'm due to change all 16 plugs here shortly. I attempted to change out the top bank of plugs on my own a few years back but I ran into an issue with the coil pack boots that connect to the top of the plugs getting stuck on the plug itself and wanting to rip apart in the spark plug chamber. I'm thinking that perhaps the compressed air being shot down into the chamber might loosen things up? I ended up going to the dealer to have them finish, it would have been a piece of cake if it weren't for the boots ripping on me. At any rate, thanks for sharing this.
Brandon,
I didn't have an issue with the boots getting stuck but I can understand how that could happen. I would used compressed air to remove any settle dust and debris, then I would spray some lubricant in the socket (just a small amount) and give it some time to penetrate. Next, before attempting to remove the coil twist it a few times to help release the boot from the plug socket. You could even spray a little more penetrating fluid to get deeper into the socket. After you've removed to coil assy. use compressed air again but cover with a rag because you'll have the lubricant blowing out this time. Be sure to use dielectric silicone grease when reinstalling.
L DeRuntz btw, I like Tri-Flow lubricants but WD-40 would likely work just as well.
Great tips! It will definately help save me some time. I have 2009 Ram 1500, 135,000 miles. First time to change any plugs...😳.
Could I put iridiums up top and extend change time?
Thank you!
Don’t put iridiums on top, for some reason these engines don’t like them.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video....my question is , when do I know when I need to do this? I have a 111 k on my engine I have not done any tune up to it. I bought it when it had 32 on it 3 years ago this fall and its a 2008 . how much are the parts cost for the plugs and the coils and do I need to replace the coils too?
Hi David, I think I spent about $130 for the plugs. Unless you have obvious damage to your coils, they should be OK to keep.There is more useful information in the comment on this video.The spark plugs located under the coils are a standard
plug and must be changed every 30,000 miles (50 000 km)
The spark plugs located on the side of the engine are a
premium plug and must be changed every 102,000 miles
(170 000 km)."
Also the plugs under the coils are Bosch FR8TE2 (Nickel Yttrium) Gap .039
The plugs that are connected to the wire are Bosch FR8T1332 (Iridium) Gap .051
You should replace your coils every 100,000 miles.
Have a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7l FLEX. ** *A quick tip to everyone moaning and groaning over the back spark plugs, go under the truck to remove them from both sides, you have plenty of room.*** Way easier to remove and install. You'll have to use his technique to torque them from the top though.
Very good video. I think the bolts that hold the coil packs on have to be retorqued to spec..Do you know what the spec is? I will try to find it, and if I do I will post it here.
Just snug. Do not over tighten
I bought Bosch Platinum Spark Plug Part Number: 6725 and Bosch Iridium Spark Plug Part Number: 9664 from autozone. Will these work? Can't seem to find good info on they actually take.
Great job. I wouldn't have done this without seeing the video. Hope you make more videos.
do you know if I can use copper plugs on both banks , upper and lower , or does upper needs to be copper plugs , and lower platinum plugs ? , great video BTW .
You could, but would need to change all 16 every 30-35,000 miles.
Well done sir! Thanks for making and sharing this clip.
Almost done rubber part broke around the sparkplug.. any ideas how to get it out?
Very nice video mr!! Thank you so much! I'm thinking of changing mine. Is a 2010 Laramie 1500 should be about the same right?? Thankd once again for taking the time of making such a sharp video!!
Awesome video thank you for the info.
Type of spark plugs you used
Just wondering if anyone knows the Torque specs For the intake plugs and lower plugs ?
Hello what means Upper and Lower Bank? 8 yttrium Plugs left side, and 8 iridium Plugs Right side? Or means Upper under the Coils and down under the coil cables? Thanks for help
The "Upper" plugs are the ones located directly (Under) the coil. When you remove the coils you are unplugging them from the upper banks of plugs. The "Lower" banks of plugs are the ones that are connected via the spark plug cable. Hope that helps!
Great video!! thanks for sharing.
Great Video of the whole process!!
Good video.. I'm going to try to change my first set this weekend. Quick question So the first set that need to be changed at 40k, is that the top 8 (four on each side)? Also I just need to change the spark plugs not the wires right?
Keepingitreal98 Yes, the plugs on top (upper bank) (the ones plugged into the bottom of the coil) change at 30k. The (lower bank) at 100k. Unless your cables are showing signs of wear or your experiencing rough engine performance or misfiring, the cables should be fine. Be careful when removing the coils. Use WD40 or similar along with compressed air to help penetrate the seal created by the rubber boot. You may need to work it a bit by rotating it incrementally and in small amounts to allow the penetrating oil to get in there before finally pulling it out. Take your time and you should be fine in most cases. **use dielectric silicone grease when reinstalling plug to rubber boot connections**
Thanks!!! Your video is very helpful!
I have a question. Do all the cables go in numerical order? Or are all the cables the same?
All cables are the same.
Amazing video
Does a 2008 4.7L have 8 or 16 spark plugs and how can you tell?
I would say yes, there are 16 total plugs.
Remove the air intake manifold and you will see 8 ignition coils. Each coil plugs into a spark plug at it's base that is located on the top of the cylinder head. Each coil also has a cable attached that connects a spark plug located on the side of the cylinder head above the exhaust manifold. So each coil powers two plugs, one at it's base that the coil plugs directly into, and one connected using the spark plug cable. Look closely at the video and you will see two spark plugs for each coil.
@@TheRuntly appreciate it! 👌
excellent video wished I would of watched before I did my job
I have a 2013 ram with 4.7 and I can't find a socket that fits what Is the brand and model that you used any feedback is much appreciated.
Roland Sherman Hi, sorry for the late reply. The socket I used is a Craftsman thin wall 6 point.
Thank you very much for posting this it was incredibly helpful and intuitive. I did get a check engine light and the error code was P0113 after the tune up. This calls for the IAT sensor (air charge temp sensor) to be looked into. I simply purchased a new sensor and installed it in the intake cover/housing (large plastic bit with 4.7 Litre embossed onto it) and it worked a treat. I've popped in a link in order to possibly help someone else with the same issue. Cheers for your efforts.
www.ramforumz.com/threads/iat-sensor-removal.56257/
you got the code because you unplugged the sensor. all you would have to do is clear the code. It happens with most sensor if you had to unplug them for any reason.
Muy buena informacion! Pretty good information tnx again!!!
So I got the rubber piece that broke off the boot that was still around the sparkplug. Obviously I'm going to need a new boot. My question is how hard to u push down on the boot that's on the new sparkplug? I pulled one up a little to see how the suction was and it didn't seem to have the same strong suction as when I first took them off. Is it because I wasn't tightened down like it was before I changed the plugs. I hope it makes sense. Also mine is a 2010 and that first spark plug you did I did but I have the transmission dipstick in the way just a heads up if anybody else does their own plugs and has a 2010.
Husky brand worked for me
Anybody know where I can get the socket to do this from??
How many spark plugs for this engine?..is it 16
16... see the notes below the video.
What was the gap on the intake sparkplugs??
Keepingitreal98 The spark plugs located under the coils are a standard
plug and must be changed every 30,000 miles (50 000 km)
The spark plugs located on the side of the engine are a
premium plug and must be changed every 102,000 miles
(170 000 km)."
Also the plugs under the coils are Bosch FR8TE2 (Nickel Yttrium) Gap .039
The plugs that are connected to the wire are Bosch FR8T1332 (Iridium) Gap .051
So how do you remove the coil with out ripping the boot? I’ve tried it on three of them and the boot rips off every time.
Hi Scott, sorry you're having this difficulty. I've heard the same from others, but didn't encounter the same difficulties. The preparation I went through may have contributed to helping me remove the coils without tearing the boot. I used an air compressor set at about 80 to 100 psi to thoroughly blast away any dust and debris from the base of each coil. I would also note that my engine was completely cooled down to ambient temperature. That's about all I did to remove the coils.
Because your coil boots are tearing I would try doing the same procedure, but add and additional step. After you have blasted the coil base with compressed air I would try spraying some WD40 into the base and allow it to penetrate for a period of time. Do this to each of the eight coils. Then after maybe 10 minutes start at the first coil you applied WD40, and with the 10mm bolt removed, firmly hold the top of the coil and try to make small circular movements. As long as you can see a slight movement at the top of the coil you should be making progress. I would say do 100 small circular movements. all your trying to do is cause the rubber boot to flex slightly and help the WD40 penetrate the socket. Repeat the process to all coils. Now again starting with the first coil, try giving a slight twisting motion. This should also help the WD40 to go deeper into the socket. I know it's a bit of a process, but this is what I would have tried had I experienced the same challenge.
Hope this helps.. Good Luck!
L DeRuntz liked your video . I have a 2009 ram 1500 . How did u access the lower plugs on the driver side ?? Those last 2 in the back on the drivers side are wayyy back there .what did u remove to get to then ? Battery ? I have same engine as u
It's a good idea to replace the coils every 100,000 miles. Or you could just replace the boots only, cheaper that way.
Great video:)
Lets see A I do that shit..😂
Nice vid, thanks......
Thanks 💪💪💪💪🇵🇷 PR.
Francisco, I'm not familiar with your engine, but I did a little searching and found that it looks like your engine also uses 2 plugs per cylinder. It's a bit different configuration but looks easy enough. I would go for it! I found some stuff online, one that seemed important was the plug wiring schematic, although I'm not sure I would remove the cables. I would do one cylinder at a time.
www.ramforum.com/f76/spark_plug_change_diy-2163/index3.html
www.wkjeeps.com/misc/LX/Spark_Plugs_5.7L.jpg
Have fun!!
You’re a f*cking badass thanks you
looks to me there are only 8 plugs
Aren't there 16 plugs.
Yes, there are 16 plugs total - 2 per cylinder.
Upper Bank uses (8) Bosch FR8TE2 (OEM
Lower Bank uses (8) Bosch FR8TI332 Iridium (OEM)
Replacement interval is based on miles driven so check your maintenance schedule.
BRO I AM 8
do you know if I can use copper plugs on both banks , upper and lower , or does upper needs to be copper plugs , and lower platinum plugs ? , great video BTW .
+Israel Nino I don't suggest using any variations. I personally would go with the factory specs.Upper Bank uses (8) Bosch FR8TE2 (OEM) Gap .039
Lower Bank uses (8) Bosch FR8TI332 Iridium (OEM) Gap .051
Ok , i guess I'll have to return the 8 champion plugs I bought , lol , thank for answering my question .
You "could" use copper plugs on both banks, but would need to change them at 30-35 thousand miles intervals. Copper is actually a better performing metal. It just doesn't last as long.