I used to do it that way but bought this tool because of stubborn caliper pistons. It works well and less cumbersome than using the pads. But thank you for the comment!
Never compress the piston without first opening the caliper bleeder screw. This prevents debris in the fluid from being forced back into the ABS unit. Once the piston is fully depressed, the bleeder screw can be closed. After the pads and the calipers are secured in the mounting, the fluid can be topped off in the reservoir. Failure to do this the correct way can lead to issues. Preventing expensive, and sometimes dangerous problems, will make your customers very happy.
I appreciate the advice and useful for an older unit, but I've never had a problem doing it this way. The piston is moving in and out when in use anyway, as is the fluid. If you have debris in your fluid, then it's only a matter of time before it starts messing up your brakes.
@@dawveed26 As a ASE Master Technician for over 35 years I assure you I have repaired many (expensive) abs control units that have been destroyed by this exact technique. On older pre-abs systems you can get away with this, but I would confirm that this is NEEDLESSLY forcing fluid back into the valving of the metering unit. Force the fluid OUT of the bleeder. This prevents fluid flowing the wrong direction.
Then please explain to me how the fluid pressure releases from pedal depression, and the constant fluid moving back and forth when a rotor is warped, how that doesn't destroy an abs system? I'm not against your technic, but your making a bigger deal out of this than it is. I've been changing brakes on cars for 30 years and never had an issue doing it this way.
@@dawveed26 first of all the statement about brake rotors warping is incorrect. They loose parallelism . The pads wear unevenly causing pulsating. When working on brakes for any reason, do not force the caliper pistons back into the caliper without first releasing the caliper bleeder screw. The calipers are located at the lowest point of the hydraulic system and tend to collect particles released from suspension in the fluid. Compressing the pistons forces this contamination back through the system causing other component failures. If these contaminants make there way to the ABS module, then they can restrict the build, hold, and release pistons by lodging in the passageways or damaging seals. Worst case is the module needs to be replaced as many are not rebuildable. Best case is you will need to flush the ABS module to dislodge the contimates. Does this happen? Absolutely as I have replaced these modules when less then professional technicians have allowed this to happen. And I have helped other technicians diagnose and resolve these issues by flushing the ABS module. Save yourself the headache and loosen the bleeder screw allowing the fluid to come out there as the piston/pistons are pushed back into their caliper/cylinders. If these contaminants make there way to the ABS module, then they can restrict the build, hold, and release pistons by lodging in the passageways or damaging seals. Worst case is the module needs to be replaced as many are not rebuildable. Best case is you will need to flush the ABS module to dislodge the contimates. Does this happen? Absolutely as I have replaced these modules when less then professional technicians have allowed this to happen. And I have helped other technicians diagnose and resolve these issues by flushing the ABS module. Save yourself the headache and loosen the bleeder screw allowing the fluid to come out there as the piston/pistons are pushed back into their caliper/cylinders.
@@dawveed26 If these contaminants make there way to the ABS module, then they can restrict the build, hold, and release pistons by lodging in the passageways or damaging seals. Worst case is the module needs to be replaced as many are not rebuildable. Best case is you will need to flush the ABS module to dislodge the contimates. Does this happen? Absolutely as I have replaced these modules when less then professional technicians have allowed this to happen. And I have helped other technicians diagnose and resolve these issues by flushing the ABS module. Save yourself the headache and loosen the bleeder screw allowing the fluid to come out there as the piston/pistons are pushed back into their caliper/cylinders.
This is why I was watching the video haha I have 2 springs on my 2012 armada and my kit came with new springs but I didn't see at all where or how they were installed as they popped off when I took the caliper off, Not totally necessary as I've watched like 5 videos and not a single one has shown the v clips being installed or removed? Weird imo
@thehated5244 Only reason why I put the V springs on is to keep the pads apart while driving so it doesn't constantly rubbing the rotors while driving which causes brakes to wear out faster. I don't know if it makes any sense.
I liked video a lot. Camera angles were great and some nice little tips that I learned that I will use in the future
You can use the old brake pad to compress both pistons no need for the 2nd clamp
I used to do it that way but bought this tool because of stubborn caliper pistons. It works well and less cumbersome than using the pads. But thank you for the comment!
Use the same tool just with a pad between it and the calipers is what he is saying
Nicely done! Thanks for sharing...
I like your video. I wanted but couldn't see ever place you were greasing.
Thanks for watching! The grease goes where the pads sit in the groove of the caliper.
Never compress the piston without first opening the caliper bleeder screw. This prevents debris in the fluid from being forced back into the ABS unit. Once the piston is fully depressed, the bleeder screw can be closed. After the pads and the calipers are secured in the mounting, the fluid can be topped off in the reservoir. Failure to do this the correct way can lead to issues. Preventing expensive, and sometimes dangerous problems, will make your customers very happy.
I appreciate the advice and useful for an older unit, but I've never had a problem doing it this way. The piston is moving in and out when in use anyway, as is the fluid. If you have debris in your fluid, then it's only a matter of time before it starts messing up your brakes.
@@dawveed26 As a ASE Master Technician for over 35 years I assure you I have repaired many (expensive) abs control units that have been destroyed by this exact technique. On older pre-abs systems you can get away with this, but I would confirm that this is NEEDLESSLY forcing fluid back into the valving of the metering unit. Force the fluid OUT of the bleeder. This prevents fluid flowing the wrong direction.
Then please explain to me how the fluid pressure releases from pedal depression, and the constant fluid moving back and forth when a rotor is warped, how that doesn't destroy an abs system? I'm not against your technic, but your making a bigger deal out of this than it is. I've been changing brakes on cars for 30 years and never had an issue doing it this way.
@@dawveed26 first of all the statement about brake rotors warping is incorrect. They loose parallelism . The pads wear unevenly causing pulsating. When working on brakes for any reason, do not force the caliper pistons back into the caliper without first releasing the caliper bleeder screw. The calipers are located at the lowest point of the hydraulic system and tend to collect particles released from suspension in the fluid. Compressing the pistons forces this contamination back through the system causing other component failures. If these contaminants make there way to the ABS module, then they can restrict the build, hold, and release pistons by lodging in the passageways or damaging seals. Worst case is the module needs to be replaced as many are not rebuildable. Best case is you will need to flush the ABS module to dislodge the contimates.
Does this happen? Absolutely as I have replaced these modules when less then professional technicians have allowed this to happen. And I have helped other technicians diagnose and resolve these issues by flushing the ABS module.
Save yourself the headache and loosen the bleeder screw allowing the fluid to come out there as the piston/pistons are pushed back into their caliper/cylinders. If these contaminants make there way to the ABS module, then they can restrict the build, hold, and release pistons by lodging in the passageways or damaging seals. Worst case is the module needs to be replaced as many are not rebuildable. Best case is you will need to flush the ABS module to dislodge the contimates.
Does this happen? Absolutely as I have replaced these modules when less then professional technicians have allowed this to happen. And I have helped other technicians diagnose and resolve these issues by flushing the ABS module.
Save yourself the headache and loosen the bleeder screw allowing the fluid to come out there as the piston/pistons are pushed back into their caliper/cylinders.
@@dawveed26 If these contaminants make there way to the ABS module, then they can restrict the build, hold, and release pistons by lodging in the passageways or damaging seals. Worst case is the module needs to be replaced as many are not rebuildable. Best case is you will need to flush the ABS module to dislodge the contimates.
Does this happen? Absolutely as I have replaced these modules when less then professional technicians have allowed this to happen. And I have helped other technicians diagnose and resolve these issues by flushing the ABS module.
Save yourself the headache and loosen the bleeder screw allowing the fluid to come out there as the piston/pistons are pushed back into their caliper/cylinders.
You didn't put on the 2 little V springs that keeps the pads from rubbing your rotors while driving. I just put it in case, but maybe not necessarily.
Hmm. Mine didn't have those in the kit. Maybe a brand extra?
This is why I was watching the video haha I have 2 springs on my 2012 armada and my kit came with new springs but I didn't see at all where or how they were installed as they popped off when I took the caliper off,
Not totally necessary as I've watched like 5 videos and not a single one has shown the v clips being installed or removed? Weird imo
@thehated5244 Only reason why I put the V springs on is to keep the pads apart while driving so it doesn't constantly rubbing the rotors while driving which causes brakes to wear out faster. I don't know if it makes any sense.
thanks 👌
Thanks man!!
No need for brake bleed ?
I didn't open the system, so no.
Wat year
2010. But Im pretty sure they didn't change the running gear underneath until the next generation model. Mine is also 4x4
@@dawveed26 Interesting, I have a 2006 and it was 21mm sockets instead of the 17mm on yours for the calipers.
@@stephennicholson8259 thanks for that info I have to do brakes on a 06 in the morning