IMPORTANT NOTE: at 15:50 where I talk about cutting and grounding the red wire, that ONLY applies if you have halogen tail lights (as found on Base, Big Bend, and Black Diamond trims). If you have LED tail lights (Outer Banks, Badlands, Wildtrak) DO NOT cut the red wire, you can skip this step. Also, see my companion video on modifications that you will need to make to the Curt wiring harness before using it on Broncos with halogen tail lights: ua-cam.com/video/q5srgkyzCYk/v-deo.html
I followed video and changed pins etc and the trailer lights don’t work. They work with my other vehicle but not the bronco. I am curious if I should reconnect the red wire…
Crap. Wish I’d have read THE VERY FIRST COMMENT. Cutting the red wire made no sense to me, so I left a pigtail of wire behind so I could re-attach it if I needed to, aaaannd I need to. The trailer lit up just fine, but no brake lights. Curt could do a better job with their instructions as well. Also, I recommend wrapping the wires in at least plastic conduit. Aircraft grade Kevlar wire wrap is both very expensive, and likely overkill. It took twenty feet of plastic conduit to cover all the wires. I suspect that the road salt back east is hard on things, but out here, just the air is hard on things.
I don’t even own a Bronco but love the fact you are using the base model. Most all other videos like this seem to use the top of the line, which some of us can’t afford. Really enjoy your videos.
Hey Budget Bronco I owe you a beer!!! I followed this video (and the one before it) today while installing a Curt trailer wiring on my Sasquatched base. Everything went fairly quick and relatively smooth. Most of all there were no unexpected surprises. Thank you so much for doing this tutorial video.
I was disappointed I couldn't order this through the dealership. But after seeing this video I'm definitely going to be getting this and using this video as reference to the instructions. Thank you for posting this. Great job!
Glad you found it helpful. Yes a lot of people are deciding to install this themselves because including it on your new Bronco build can make it take a lot more time to get scheduled. Thanks for watching!
@@richardgibbs3530 It wasn't an option on the Base model. Just like you can't get heated seats and stuff like that on the Base model. Stupid I know. All you gotta do is install it. I'll probably be doing this next year. Next step is 2" leveling kit and 35"s.
Love ur channel. These vids better still b available to rewatch when I get my ‘23 or ‘24 Bronco!!! Keep up the great content. PS. Adding this to my ‘09 Wrangler was 1000 times easier. But once complete, it was still a crappy Wrangler. Lol
Been following your build for a while on bronco6g, looking great so another option of running to the battery is on the inside running under the trim on the driver side to keep it inside the car
Thanks for the comment, yes I have been on B6G for a long time now! You are correct, that can be done, but involves a bit more effort removing interior trim panels. If you are working on another project that requires that, it would be worth it.
Just installed mine, got my kit from rough country and the bolts were sized correctly to allow me not to need any spacers. I think I will take mine off for the winters here in MN…. On every other vehicle I have these are the focal point of rust after they get used one time.
Cool....I am glad you got the right bolts. Winters same here and I have seen some very rusty trailer hitches so that is not a bad idea. Thanks for watching!
Interesting. Nice Job! Does that little black plastic box have a screw hole or mount hole molded in the plastic for the option of tex screwing it right to the frame? I also had no idea you needed to run a sep line to batt. The existing system isn't enough to piggyback the additional trailer lights? The main wire you ran (12 gauge?) for/to the batt... is that hot at all times now? I think I may run that one off one of the Ford toggle switches in the ceiling. This way I can put the kibosh on the wire whenever not in use. I don't think I will ever use all of them provided by Ford anyway. Thanks for your effort! Great video all around. A lot more work than the explained "Plug and Play" on the package, right? Sorry if you mentioned it in the vid somewhere, but is that the Curt wiring system?
1) Yes the box also has a screw mount hole, that is an option 2) Correct, separate 12V power is required. You can get it from other places, but it has to come from somewhere. Some people have successfully wired it to open connections found within the cargo area, but you have to remove a lot of trim to get to them. 3) Yes since I am going straight to battery, it will always be on. You could probably also use the AUX switch wire that is in the rear cargo area, you would just have to remember to flip that switch any time you use the trailer. 4) Agree not quite plug and play, but not too hard either. This is the Curt hitch receiver PN 13493 and Curt wiring harness PN 56468
@@BudgetBronco Thanks! Great work as usual! I ordered a Jeep roof sling for my garage for $145 from Amazon and I will def, in summer, do the white vinyl roof. My benefit is that my wife's dad used to own a sign store and she was the main vinyl person for his shop, so I will be cheating as a do-it-yourselfer on that one, but, man, that roof looks so awesome! Depending upon how well it all goes (and expensive)I was also kicking around every panel since they all come off and doing a color change.
Since you have all those Amazon links in your description, might want to link that companion video you noted. Despite subscribing to your channel, somehow I only saw this vid pop up; had to search for the other Still appreciate all the work you do; super helpful. I've also heard the Tekonsha harness allows us with the "poverty tails" to add wiring without the additional modification needed, FWIW...
Good suggestion! I have just added it, thanks. Good to know on the Tekonsha, I have heard conflicting information on that one, definitely test it before you hit the road.
I see on their website they are also now listing the application as "w/LED Taillights" so it looks like that one requires modification as well www.tekonsha.com/product/118849_tow-harness-t-connector-assembly#product-fitguide-content
This is incredibly helpful. Thank you. Especially the visual on how/where to route the 12 gauge wire to the battery. I was considering tapping into the power on the inner wall of the cargo - but, this honestly seems like less of a headache since I heard some of those tabs holding the side panels are a PITA. One question - why'd you route the red and white ground back under the vehicle? Is there nowhere to ground next to the tail light? I noticed the white ground wire itself is pretty short before pulling it away from the other three wires. Just curious.
I agree, unless you need to remove the cargo interior panels for some other reason, I think it is easier to route the power to the battery as I did in the video. On the ground, I did use a multimeter to test the ground on one of the bolts on the tail light and it was not giving me a very strong and consistent ground reading, so I decided to just drill a hole and ground right to the frame to make sure I had a strong connection. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you. Well done. Like your Bronco *Base* channel. Keep up the good work! I have a base model with the optional 6 switches (they have all have relays me thinks - need to check). Anyway, I wonder if the rear switch can supply enough current to the harness instead of the wire going to the battery. Might be a little 'cleaner'?
All bronco are wired for a trailer hitch. Look under the left side of the truck and you will see a taped up wiring harness with all the trailer connections. Then also the controller connection is under the dash.
If you mean inside the Bronco and behind the trim panel, then yes this is at least partially true. There is a wire there that can be used for power, but you have to remove several trim panels to get to it.
We had one installed after-market and now our right turn signal, in the back, only works part of the time - the rest of the time it flashes and double speed and doesn't light up - do you know why that would be?
Hmmm...I think the two most likely reasons might be 1) it is not properly grounded or 2) the connector on the right side is not fully seated. Also are you sure that you installed the right part number? Depending on what manufacturer you used (Curt for example), there are now two different part numbers one for Broncos with halogen style tail lights, and one for Broncos with LED tail lights. For more info on that, read my description under this video: ua-cam.com/video/q5srgkyzCYk/v-deo.html
@@BudgetBronco I’m and industrial mechanic by trade, and the both locks can interfere with each other, but flat washers or bushings make stronger spacers, especially if you are going to tow!!!
No issues, either way should work. The only thing you saw on my installation is that my bolts were a little too long and I had to use some washers under the bolt head in order to get clearance on the nut side.
This may have been addressed in another comment, but I have a question... If I have changed from the stock halogen bulbs, to LED bulbs, does the Important note regarding the Red wire apply, as if it has LED bulbs from the factory? TIA!! Great Videos!!
Good question: No, that comment is associated with the tail light housing option as supplied by Ford, not the type of bulb you choose to put in it. So if you your tail lights started as halogen, cut the red wire. A question for you: did you put in LED bulbs for the turn signal bulbs, and if so are they working? Do they flicker?
I like the idea of the Base trim level but with some exceptions that are excluded from it, the Black Diamond is a good alternative. What don’t like is some features are excluded from both the Base And the Black Diamond, one of which I know is available on the Big Bend, which are the signature headlights. ✌🏼
You can always buy signature headlights and install them yourself. I believe they are plug-and-play. Every now and then you see a set for sale on the Bronco6g marketplace. That is how I would do it: buy the trim that meets most of your needs/wants without having a bunch of stuff you don't care about, and then just fill in any gaps with aftermarket stuff.
@@BudgetBronco I did that with my Wrangler, swapped out factory parts for aftermarket ones and when I finally got my Bronco, I got exactly what I wanted. ✌🏼
Thank you. I figured it would be easy and was hoping it would bolt right up. I appreciate you doing this and showing us. It makes it way easier to plan. I ordered the base with only the auxiliary switches and got my bronco in only 4 months (Jan-May). I was looking at the harbor freight hitch for only $30, cause it'll only be for bikes and such. Where in PA are you? I lived in Uniontown in 1994-1995.
So I see the updated description for the wiring harness. So if we have the halogen tail lights and get the PN 56471 harness we do not cut the red wire? Is any modification needed?
If you have halogen tail lights and Curt 56471 harness, you do NOT need to make any modifications to the pins. As to the red wire, the answer is yes, you do cut and ground it. This is per the following line on the instruction sheet: "If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded".
Yes somebody else commented the same. Apparently in the new 56471 design there is no red wire (even though their own picture still shows it www.curtmfg.com/part/56471) . So, skip that and you are good to go!
Loving your videos. Im also in the Pittsburgh area and thinking about switching to a Bronco this fall when my lease expires. The towing capacity is the only thing that has me on the fence since i have a boat that is about 3350 pounds and really pushing the limit, although all of my towing is straight highway miles up 79 to Erie.
Hey neighbor! Thanks for the comment. I have not towed anything yet myself, but I did see a post by somebody on the Bronco6G forum that has towed a large boat, I will link it here. That is a pretty flat stretch so you might be OK but you would probably want to get a 4 door and 2.7L engine. www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/towing-yamaha-sx195-with-2-3l-black-diamond-bronco.27689/#post-950336
@@BudgetBronco im not really worried about the motor since I currently use a ranger with the 2.3L to tow. Its an amazing little motor! The short 2 door wheelbase has me a little concerned
Depending on which bronco trim you go for you should keep in mind that the towing capacity is different between the trims even. A Bronco Badlands 4 door with the Sasquatch package is only good for 3,220# while the same with a 2 door is good for 3,460#. A base without Sasquatch is good for 3,500# across the board. A lot of the seemingly low rating has to do with the new SAE J2807 tow standards and accounts for 150# driver, 150# passenger, and other things. FWIW the Bronco Raptor will be able to do 4,500# because of frame reinforcements to the rear bumper frame. PS- I'm also from Pittsburgh and my 4 door Badlands Sasquatch in Eruption Green should be here any day now. Go Pens!
Thanks for the video - my dealer just called to tell me the towing set up was holding up my order, just like you explained and after seeing your video I felt confident to tell them to proceed without it. Do you know if the kit you highlighted and the process is the same for the '23 model year? Thanks!
Yes should be same. The only thing that that has changed is that Curt now sells two different part numbers, one designed for halogen tail lights and one designed for LED tail lights, so you no longer need to make the pin changes I noted in my other video (see part numbers in my video description). Good luck, I hope you get a VIN assigned soon!
That is correct. See my comment section under the video where I have updated based on the latest information. That part number did not exist when I made the video. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
Awesome job! Thank you! I am looking to add the hitch, and wiring. I also have some 6" Rough Country lights I had considered adding under the bumper, as backup lights. Should I be able to tie into the backup light wiring, and run them off the power to those lights? I have the AUX switches, and will run power to the harness by way of the cargo area supplied wire.
Yes you SHOULD be able to, but I am more of a mechanical guy than electrical, so I can't help much on telling you how. Best I could find is some posts on Bronco6g where users have said they did this, but did not provide the details. Maybe message them on Bronco6g and ask: www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/rear-lighting-placement-ideas.33574/
This is great. Have a base sasq and put the same hitch on. Was going to take it to a hitch guy to wire, but this seems simple enough. Thanks also for the video explaining how to change the pin wiring on the harness to work with Halogen. Question - got the 2-door Cyber Orange (school bus yellow depending on the time of day...) and was thinking of having my hardtop white to mimic the yellow 60's Bronco. Did you have a paint shop do that?
Cool...ya the wiring is not too hard if you have some basic skills and tools for crimping wires and such. Also note that if you have not already purchased the wiring harness, Curt has now updated and sells a different part number that is properly configured for Halogen. See details in the video description. Lastly on the top, I wrapped mine, not painted. Check out my video list for '2021 Ford Base Bronco DIY Vinyl Wrap MIC Top For Under $200'. I have also seen several people have reporting good results with painting too, and they say that costs in the $1000-$1200 range.
That is probably an option as well if you purchase a fuse tap. The battery terminals and the fuse box are right next to eac hother, and the Bronco has extra battery terminal points available, so I am not convinced that would be any easier though.
I wonder if the hitch manufacturer intended for you to remove the plastic bumper temporarily to install the hitch bolts from the back side. That way bolt length would not be an issue, and that method would also prevent the bolts from ever backing out if the nuts were to loosen or come off.
Don't know if it makes a difference but most other videos show the bolts to the hitch going in from the other direction which may be the reason you have clearance issues.
My problem was that the bolts were a little too long to feed in from the back. The only way to get them in would be to take off the bumper, which I am told is not difficult, but just seemed like unnecessary work given it would work in the other direction. I would expect that by now they are probably shipping this hitch with bolts that are about 1/4 or 1/2 inch shorter.
The difference between a 4 pole and 7 pole connector is the 7 pole connector is for brake, the 4 pole does have reverse lights. If a vehicle vehicle like this is towing more 1,000 lbs. it is a good practice to add an auxiliary engine oiler and transmission fluid cooler. Additionally, most states require a trailer brake controller when towing more than 1,000 lbs.
Yes those brake requirements vary a lot by state. But I am pretty sure 4 pole does not have reverse lights. See here for example: www.etrailer.com/question-136174.html
If you have the halogen style tail lights like mine, then ground the red wire along with the white wire, this is per the instructions that come with the harness. If you have LED style headlights, do not cut the red wire, leave it as is.
Hi I really want to connect a KC Hilites rear light bar but they just have open wires. Where can I get that connector end that connects into the light bar and the taillight / body harness?
There are some available connections inside the cargo area that you can use, but you have to remove a bunch of trim panels to get to them, and I just didn't want to have to rip that much stuff off.
A few people have noted some difficulty, not sure why. But this would be the next-best approach, if you can't get a pin out, just cut and splice it....good job!
For those that feel that way, just check the box on your options list and add it to your order for $600! Unless you get a Base model, it which case it is not available as an option.
@@BudgetBronco Yeah unfortunately i got the base model thinking the wiring would be as easy as the aux switches....boy was i wrong. I'm hoping by the time i get mine a non modifying solution is available.
Another option for you, you can purchase them as Ford Accessories and have your dealer install them. The hitch is Part No: MB3Z19D520A and the wiring module is Part No: FT1Z15A416A. That should cost under $500 plus installation fees.
IMPORTANT NOTE: at 15:50 where I talk about cutting and grounding the red wire, that ONLY applies if you have halogen tail lights (as found on Base, Big Bend, and Black Diamond trims). If you have LED tail lights (Outer Banks, Badlands, Wildtrak) DO NOT cut the red wire, you can skip this step. Also, see my companion video on modifications that you will need to make to the Curt wiring harness before using it on Broncos with halogen tail lights: ua-cam.com/video/q5srgkyzCYk/v-deo.html
What happens if you do not cut the red wire? I have a base model and the lights work.
@@IGoProEVERYTHING Good question, I don't know! I did not try that. If you are working properly, that is good news.
I followed video and changed pins etc and the trailer lights don’t work. They work with my other vehicle but not the bronco. I am curious if I should reconnect the red wire…
Crap. Wish I’d have read THE VERY FIRST COMMENT. Cutting the red wire made no sense to me, so I left a pigtail of wire behind so I could re-attach it if I needed to, aaaannd I need to. The trailer lit up just fine, but no brake lights. Curt could do a better job with their instructions as well. Also, I recommend wrapping the wires in at least plastic conduit. Aircraft grade Kevlar wire wrap is both very expensive, and likely overkill. It took twenty feet of plastic conduit to cover all the wires. I suspect that the road salt back east is hard on things, but out here, just the air is hard on things.
Hey @budgetbronco. What if I bought the halogen kit and then come to find out i have the led tail lights. Is there a way to convert in that direction?
I don’t even own a Bronco but love the fact you are using the base model. Most all other videos like this seem to use the top of the line, which some of us can’t afford. Really enjoy your videos.
RIght?! Other channels start with a fully kitted out Outerbanks then add 50k in parts.
Thank you both! To each their own, but my style is definitely to avoid paying for something that I can do myself, and I enjoy the process.
Great video. I've seen a couple of these and the guys do not show the wiring set up. Thanks for taking the time to do it properly.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
You say "crawling around under your truck" like it's a bad thing! lol Great stuff, keep them coming!
HAHA I recently invested in a creeper and it has been a game changer! Wish I had bought one a long time ago.
Hey Budget Bronco I owe you a beer!!! I followed this video (and the one before it) today while installing a Curt trailer wiring on my Sasquatched base. Everything went fairly quick and relatively smooth. Most of all there were no unexpected surprises. Thank you so much for doing this tutorial video.
Great to hear that and next time you are in Pittsburgh I will take you up on that offer! My favorite this time of year is Hopslam.
I was disappointed I couldn't order this through the dealership. But after seeing this video I'm definitely going to be getting this and using this video as reference to the instructions. Thank you for posting this. Great job!
Glad you found it helpful. Yes a lot of people are deciding to install this themselves because including it on your new Bronco build can make it take a lot more time to get scheduled. Thanks for watching!
Why can't you get it from your dealership? I ordered mine through the dealer using ford points
@@richardgibbs3530 It wasn't an option on the Base model. Just like you can't get heated seats and stuff like that on the Base model. Stupid I know. All you gotta do is install it. I'll probably be doing this next year. Next step is 2" leveling kit and 35"s.
@@mawage666 no I meant ordering it off the accessories website at your dealership which is what I did for my base
@@richardgibbs3530 oh I gotcha. I did not see it on there I'll look again...
The curt hitch looks like a heavier piece than the one from ford. Thanks for the videos!
The Curt model does feel very beefy. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for another good one, Tim.
My blend date was Jan. 14 and tentative delivery of Feb. 3.
Can’t wait to get started.
I hope that date sticks for you! 🤞
@@BudgetBronco they got me again, Tim
Got pushed back to Feb. 28, which is basically the first week of March
💩 that is frustrating! Hang in there...
Thanks for you hard work documenting this!
Glad to help, and thanks for watching!
Love ur channel. These vids better still b available to rewatch when I get my ‘23 or ‘24 Bronco!!! Keep up the great content.
PS. Adding this to my ‘09 Wrangler was 1000 times easier. But once complete, it was still a crappy Wrangler. Lol
You will have lots of time to plan and dream about all the mods you want to do! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the taking the time to make this video. Very helpful
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info. Just ordered the Curt hitch and wondered about the best way to do the wiring. And Hokie, Hokie, Hi!
You are welcome! Go Hokies! Which trim level Bronco do you have?
@@BudgetBronco 2 door non-Sas OBX. Was extremely fortunate to get it several months ago, and starting to look at mods. Love your channel!
OK you won't need to make any modifications to your wiring harness, and skip the part in the video where I cut the red wire!
Thanks for the video I got the harness and hitch already modified the harness just need my bronco (in transit) hopefully the end of the month.
COOL! What kind did you order?
Great videos, please keep them coming
Thanks, will do!
Been following your build for a while on bronco6g, looking great so another option of running to the battery is on the inside running under the trim on the driver side to keep it inside the car
Thanks for the comment, yes I have been on B6G for a long time now! You are correct, that can be done, but involves a bit more effort removing interior trim panels. If you are working on another project that requires that, it would be worth it.
@@BudgetBronco yours definitely seems like the way easier method though that's for sure
just subbed, love your videos! keep up the good work!!
Thanks for the sub!
Just installed mine, got my kit from rough country and the bolts were sized correctly to allow me not to need any spacers. I think I will take mine off for the winters here in MN…. On every other vehicle I have these are the focal point of rust after they get used one time.
Cool....I am glad you got the right bolts. Winters same here and I have seen some very rusty trailer hitches so that is not a bad idea. Thanks for watching!
Interesting. Nice Job! Does that little black plastic box have a screw hole or mount hole molded in the plastic for the option of tex screwing it right to the frame? I also had no idea you needed to run a sep line to batt. The existing system isn't enough to piggyback the additional trailer lights?
The main wire you ran (12 gauge?) for/to the batt... is that hot at all times now? I think I may run that one off one of the Ford toggle switches in the ceiling. This way I can put the kibosh on the wire whenever not in use. I don't think I will ever use all of them provided by Ford anyway. Thanks for your effort! Great video all around. A lot more work than the explained "Plug and Play" on the package, right? Sorry if you mentioned it in the vid somewhere, but is that the Curt wiring system?
1) Yes the box also has a screw mount hole, that is an option
2) Correct, separate 12V power is required. You can get it from other places, but it has to come from somewhere. Some people have successfully wired it to open connections found within the cargo area, but you have to remove a lot of trim to get to them.
3) Yes since I am going straight to battery, it will always be on. You could probably also use the AUX switch wire that is in the rear cargo area, you would just have to remember to flip that switch any time you use the trailer.
4) Agree not quite plug and play, but not too hard either. This is the Curt hitch receiver PN 13493 and Curt wiring harness PN 56468
@@BudgetBronco Thanks! Great work as usual! I ordered a Jeep roof sling for my garage for $145 from Amazon and I will def, in summer, do the white vinyl roof. My benefit is that my wife's dad used to own a sign store and she was the main vinyl person for his shop, so I will be cheating as a do-it-yourselfer on that one, but, man, that roof looks so awesome! Depending upon how well it all goes (and expensive)I was also kicking around every panel since they all come off and doing a color change.
good point. was worried about the 'hot' wire too but I see it is fused. Over time, even if it shorts out, the fuse blows first.
Great video - thank you. Where do you stow the 4-pin connector when not in use?
Thanks! I later installed a connector, here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/H0PKvZPd0iU/v-deo.html
Since you have all those Amazon links in your description, might want to link that companion video you noted. Despite subscribing to your channel, somehow I only saw this vid pop up; had to search for the other Still appreciate all the work you do; super helpful.
I've also heard the Tekonsha harness allows us with the "poverty tails" to add wiring without the additional modification needed, FWIW...
Good suggestion! I have just added it, thanks. Good to know on the Tekonsha, I have heard conflicting information on that one, definitely test it before you hit the road.
BUMP! has anyone tried the tekonsha?
I see on their website they are also now listing the application as "w/LED Taillights" so it looks like that one requires modification as well www.tekonsha.com/product/118849_tow-harness-t-connector-assembly#product-fitguide-content
This is incredibly helpful. Thank you. Especially the visual on how/where to route the 12 gauge wire to the battery. I was considering tapping into the power on the inner wall of the cargo - but, this honestly seems like less of a headache since I heard some of those tabs holding the side panels are a PITA. One question - why'd you route the red and white ground back under the vehicle? Is there nowhere to ground next to the tail light? I noticed the white ground wire itself is pretty short before pulling it away from the other three wires. Just curious.
I agree, unless you need to remove the cargo interior panels for some other reason, I think it is easier to route the power to the battery as I did in the video. On the ground, I did use a multimeter to test the ground on one of the bolts on the tail light and it was not giving me a very strong and consistent ground reading, so I decided to just drill a hole and ground right to the frame to make sure I had a strong connection. Thanks for the comment!
What do you need the control box for
Good question, that is just how this Curt harness works, and you have to supply that control box with 12V power.
Thank you. Well done. Like your Bronco *Base* channel. Keep up the good work!
I have a base model with the optional 6 switches (they have all have relays me thinks - need to check). Anyway, I wonder if the rear switch can supply enough current to the harness instead of the wire going to the battery. Might be a little 'cleaner'?
Yes, that is an option, I think. Of course, you would have to remember to flip the switch any time you want to use the trailer.
All bronco are wired for a trailer hitch. Look under the left side of the truck and you will see a taped up wiring harness with all the trailer connections. Then also the controller connection is under the dash.
If you mean inside the Bronco and behind the trim panel, then yes this is at least partially true. There is a wire there that can be used for power, but you have to remove several trim panels to get to it.
We had one installed after-market and now our right turn signal, in the back, only works part of the time - the rest of the time it flashes and double speed and doesn't light up - do you know why that would be?
Hmmm...I think the two most likely reasons might be 1) it is not properly grounded or 2) the connector on the right side is not fully seated. Also are you sure that you installed the right part number? Depending on what manufacturer you used (Curt for example), there are now two different part numbers one for Broncos with halogen style tail lights, and one for Broncos with LED tail lights. For more info on that, read my description under this video: ua-cam.com/video/q5srgkyzCYk/v-deo.html
Make or get a spacer but should never double lock washers! But thanks for the video! I just got my 2 door!
Oh, why is that? Enjoy your new ride!
@@BudgetBronco I’m and industrial mechanic by trade, and the both locks can interfere with each other, but flat washers or bushings make stronger spacers, especially if you are going to tow!!!
Good tip, thanks for sharing that!
Any issues with putting the bolts in reverse for the hitch? I believe you’re supposed to take the bumper off to put them on
No issues, either way should work. The only thing you saw on my installation is that my bolts were a little too long and I had to use some washers under the bolt head in order to get clearance on the nut side.
This may have been addressed in another comment, but I have a question... If I have changed from the stock halogen bulbs, to LED bulbs, does the Important note regarding the Red wire apply, as if it has LED bulbs from the factory? TIA!! Great Videos!!
Good question: No, that comment is associated with the tail light housing option as supplied by Ford, not the type of bulb you choose to put in it. So if you your tail lights started as halogen, cut the red wire. A question for you: did you put in LED bulbs for the turn signal bulbs, and if so are they working? Do they flicker?
@@BudgetBronco I have not as yet, looking for some that are compatible that will not flicker. Thank you for the info, and for these great videos!!
Great walkthrough, thanks! Would getting the junction box submerged in water while offroading be a problem?
It is sealed with epoxy, so it is definitely water resistant. But not sure how well it would do if totally submerged for any amount of time.
How do I know if I have the hologen style rear taillight. I own a 2022 Bronco Badlands 4 door….never mind watched your other video. Lol
HAHA you got it, they do look a good bit different so it is easy to determine which you have.
I like the idea of the Base trim level but with some exceptions that are excluded from it, the Black Diamond is a good alternative. What don’t like is some features are excluded from both the Base And the Black Diamond, one of which I know is available on the Big Bend, which are the signature headlights. ✌🏼
You can always buy signature headlights and install them yourself. I believe they are plug-and-play. Every now and then you see a set for sale on the Bronco6g marketplace. That is how I would do it: buy the trim that meets most of your needs/wants without having a bunch of stuff you don't care about, and then just fill in any gaps with aftermarket stuff.
@@BudgetBronco I did that with my Wrangler, swapped out factory parts for aftermarket ones and when I finally got my Bronco, I got exactly what I wanted. ✌🏼
Thank you. I figured it would be easy and was hoping it would bolt right up. I appreciate you doing this and showing us. It makes it way easier to plan. I ordered the base with only the auxiliary switches and got my bronco in only 4 months (Jan-May). I was looking at the harbor freight hitch for only $30, cause it'll only be for bikes and such.
Where in PA are you? I lived in Uniontown in 1994-1995.
Glad I could help! Base is a great choice. I am in the Pittsburgh area..thanks for watching!
thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Do you have a link for the curt wiring harness? I can't seem to find this part from your part number on the curt website.
Here is the link: www.curtmfg.com/part/56468
Thank you!!!
So I see the updated description for the wiring harness. So if we have the halogen tail lights and get the PN 56471 harness we do not cut the red wire? Is any modification needed?
If you have halogen tail lights and Curt 56471 harness, you do NOT need to make any modifications to the pins. As to the red wire, the answer is yes, you do cut and ground it. This is per the following line on the instruction sheet: "If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded".
@@BudgetBronco the 56471 doesn't have a red wire though 🤷
Yes somebody else commented the same. Apparently in the new 56471 design there is no red wire (even though their own picture still shows it www.curtmfg.com/part/56471) . So, skip that and you are good to go!
Loving your videos. Im also in the Pittsburgh area and thinking about switching to a Bronco this fall when my lease expires. The towing capacity is the only thing that has me on the fence since i have a boat that is about 3350 pounds and really pushing the limit, although all of my towing is straight highway miles up 79 to Erie.
Hey neighbor! Thanks for the comment. I have not towed anything yet myself, but I did see a post by somebody on the Bronco6G forum that has towed a large boat, I will link it here. That is a pretty flat stretch so you might be OK but you would probably want to get a 4 door and 2.7L engine. www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/towing-yamaha-sx195-with-2-3l-black-diamond-bronco.27689/#post-950336
@@BudgetBronco im not really worried about the motor since I currently use a ranger with the 2.3L to tow. Its an amazing little motor! The short 2 door wheelbase has me a little concerned
I am very happy with the power of the 2.3, but like I say haven't tried to tow anything yet.
Depending on which bronco trim you go for you should keep in mind that the towing capacity is different between the trims even. A Bronco Badlands 4 door with the Sasquatch package is only good for 3,220# while the same with a 2 door is good for 3,460#. A base without Sasquatch is good for 3,500# across the board. A lot of the seemingly low rating has to do with the new SAE J2807 tow standards and accounts for 150# driver, 150# passenger, and other things. FWIW the Bronco Raptor will be able to do 4,500# because of frame reinforcements to the rear bumper frame.
PS- I'm also from Pittsburgh and my 4 door Badlands Sasquatch in Eruption Green should be here any day now. Go Pens!
COOL! Good comments. I love the green. Hope to see you around town some day....GO PENS!!
Thanks for the video - my dealer just called to tell me the towing set up was holding up my order, just like you explained and after seeing your video I felt confident to tell them to proceed without it. Do you know if the kit you highlighted and the process is the same for the '23 model year? Thanks!
Yes should be same. The only thing that that has changed is that Curt now sells two different part numbers, one designed for halogen tail lights and one designed for LED tail lights, so you no longer need to make the pin changes I noted in my other video (see part numbers in my video description). Good luck, I hope you get a VIN assigned soon!
56471 is curts product number for the halogen bulb harness... modification isn't necessary
That is correct. See my comment section under the video where I have updated based on the latest information. That part number did not exist when I made the video. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
Awesome job! Thank you! I am looking to add the hitch, and wiring. I also have some 6" Rough Country lights I had considered adding under the bumper, as backup lights. Should I be able to tie into the backup light wiring, and run them off the power to those lights? I have the AUX switches, and will run power to the harness by way of the cargo area supplied wire.
Yes you SHOULD be able to, but I am more of a mechanical guy than electrical, so I can't help much on telling you how. Best I could find is some posts on Bronco6g where users have said they did this, but did not provide the details. Maybe message them on Bronco6g and ask: www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/rear-lighting-placement-ideas.33574/
This is great. Have a base sasq and put the same hitch on. Was going to take it to a hitch guy to wire, but this seems simple enough. Thanks also for the video explaining how to change the pin wiring on the harness to work with Halogen.
Question - got the 2-door Cyber Orange (school bus yellow depending on the time of day...) and was thinking of having my hardtop white to mimic the yellow 60's Bronco. Did you have a paint shop do that?
Cool...ya the wiring is not too hard if you have some basic skills and tools for crimping wires and such. Also note that if you have not already purchased the wiring harness, Curt has now updated and sells a different part number that is properly configured for Halogen. See details in the video description. Lastly on the top, I wrapped mine, not painted. Check out my video list for '2021 Ford Base Bronco DIY Vinyl Wrap MIC Top For Under $200'. I have also seen several people have reporting good results with painting too, and they say that costs in the $1000-$1200 range.
Why didn't you wire into OEM fuse spot in the fusebox in the engine compartment at point 42?
That is probably an option as well if you purchase a fuse tap. The battery terminals and the fuse box are right next to eac hother, and the Bronco has extra battery terminal points available, so I am not convinced that would be any easier though.
I wonder if the hitch manufacturer intended for you to remove the plastic bumper temporarily to install the hitch bolts from the back side. That way bolt length would not be an issue, and that method would also prevent the bolts from ever backing out if the nuts were to loosen or come off.
Possibly, but the directions that came with the hitch showed to put them the orientation that I used.
The one from ford has you putting the bolts in another way because the nuts are welded, so the bumper has to at least be losses enough to push it up
Don't know if it makes a difference but most other videos show the bolts to the hitch going in from the other direction which may be the reason you have clearance issues.
My problem was that the bolts were a little too long to feed in from the back. The only way to get them in would be to take off the bumper, which I am told is not difficult, but just seemed like unnecessary work given it would work in the other direction. I would expect that by now they are probably shipping this hitch with bolts that are about 1/4 or 1/2 inch shorter.
On your base Bronco. Did you paint the top?
No, I wrapped it with vinyl. See video here: ua-cam.com/video/GRQr0BIP5Y4/v-deo.html
I just got my vin and build date today, I’m super excited. Question, will this affect the warranty?
I would be shocked if adding this wiring harness had any affect on warranty.
The difference between a 4 pole and 7 pole connector is the 7 pole connector is for brake, the 4 pole does have reverse lights.
If a vehicle vehicle like this is towing more 1,000 lbs. it is a good practice to add an auxiliary engine oiler and transmission fluid cooler.
Additionally, most states require a trailer brake controller when towing more than 1,000 lbs.
Yes those brake requirements vary a lot by state. But I am pretty sure 4 pole does not have reverse lights. See here for example: www.etrailer.com/question-136174.html
@@BudgetBronco , I apologize you're correct. The 4 pole needs the 5th wire for reverse lights.
All good thanks for watching!
my state requires a brake controller (> 1000.00 lbs) and patent leather shoes on my feet (socks optional). ain't doing either.
😂
A receiver hitch bike rack will not clear the spare tire.
Yes you will probably need an extension. They have them at Harbor Freight for $24 www.harborfreight.com/12-in-hitch-extender-69882.html
I’m still unsure of what you did with that red wire.
If you have the halogen style tail lights like mine, then ground the red wire along with the white wire, this is per the instructions that come with the harness. If you have LED style headlights, do not cut the red wire, leave it as is.
@@BudgetBronco thanks man, i appreciate the reply.
Hi I really want to connect a KC Hilites rear light bar but they just have open wires. Where can I get that connector end that connects into the light bar and the taillight / body harness?
Not sure what you mean?
Those things aren't pre wired for a trailer plug, most things are now days
There are some available connections inside the cargo area that you can use, but you have to remove a bunch of trim panels to get to them, and I just didn't want to have to rip that much stuff off.
1 pin on each side would not come out for me so I cut and spliced those wires.
A few people have noted some difficulty, not sure why. But this would be the next-best approach, if you can't get a pin out, just cut and splice it....good job!
Warning if you have a Badlands you will have to remove the bumper. Which really was not that bad.
Good to know, thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
That's bc you put the bolts in the opposite way that they are supposed to go...smh
True, but the only way to insert the bolt the opposite direction is to take the bumper off and I didn't want to bother with that. Thanks for watching!
Almost doesn't seem worth it.
For those that feel that way, just check the box on your options list and add it to your order for $600! Unless you get a Base model, it which case it is not available as an option.
@@BudgetBronco Yeah unfortunately i got the base model thinking the wiring would be as easy as the aux switches....boy was i wrong. I'm hoping by the time i get mine a non modifying solution is available.
Another option for you, you can purchase them as Ford Accessories and have your dealer install them. The hitch is Part No: MB3Z19D520A and the wiring module is Part No: FT1Z15A416A. That should cost under $500 plus installation fees.