It's very popular to keep a spare white relay in glove compartment for this very reason, it happens a LOT! good job! Tip: in very hot weather the main fuel pump can quit and then work again fine after a cool down of 5 to 15 minutes. If that happens, but is fine in cool weather, you've got a bad in-tank pump which helps feed the main pump. Just sayin'.
Yes that relay is the #1 GOTO problem solution but here's another one that happened to me. My '91/245/Wagon developed a crank/no start condition but a squirt of quickstart ether into a vacuum hose port would start it and it would run! That turned out to be the crank position sensor on top of the bell housing/flywheel. I think it tells the fuel injection computer box to keep the fuel pump relay going. With no signal the relay is cut off. Possibly mine produced a weak signal on slow cranking that improved with engine rotation speed after starting .. Anyway a new sensor fixed it just fine. It wasn't expensive, around $20-$30 as I recall.
That was a good found right there. We all ways learn something different. Don’t meter if we work 1000 times in the same car😅😅 thank you. For you comment. 😊
Same here, replaced the crankshaft sensor cable and the car started right up, worked great for a month and now I am right back where I started. Cranks, No Start. Tried changing the sensor cable again thinking it was faulty but it didn't start. @1Wayfix gonna try replacing this relay.
This car ( Volvo 240's) is set up to cut power to the fuel pump whenever there is an ignition issue to avoid flooding the vehicle. In my case I had a bad spark plug wire.
@@jeannebenz If you got q jumper cables. Use those. Connect. The positive. Jumper cable to the. Positive. Terminal of the battery. Then bring it to the driver side. Then be carful not to touch the frame. Then get a short piece of speaker. O any wire. Clamp to the end of the jumper cable. Now touch 1 side of the fuse. Then the other one. If fuel pump is good. U will hear the zzzzzz. Noise.
Si su fusible esta bien. Entonces. Puede aplica corriente como se indica. En el video. Despues del minito 2:15. Si la bomba se activa entonces su bomba esta bien. El siguiente paso es verificar el relay de la bomba en el minuto 4:50
It's very popular to keep a spare white relay in glove compartment for this very reason, it happens a LOT! good job! Tip: in very hot weather the main fuel pump can quit and then work again fine after a cool down of 5 to 15 minutes. If that happens, but is fine in cool weather, you've got a bad in-tank pump which helps feed the main pump. Just sayin'.
Thank you for the tip😊
Man thank you I have the same problem, that relay cost me $37.
Nice. I glad that my video help u. 😃😃😃🙏
Great job
Yes that relay is the #1 GOTO problem solution but here's another one that happened to me. My '91/245/Wagon developed a crank/no start condition but a squirt of quickstart ether into a vacuum hose port would start it and it would run! That turned out to be the crank position sensor on top of the bell housing/flywheel. I think it tells the fuel injection computer box to keep the fuel pump relay going. With no signal the relay is cut off. Possibly mine produced a weak signal on slow cranking that improved with engine rotation speed after starting .. Anyway a new sensor fixed it just fine. It wasn't expensive, around $20-$30 as I recall.
That was a good found right there. We all ways learn something different. Don’t meter if we work 1000 times in the same car😅😅 thank you. For you comment. 😊
Same here, replaced the crankshaft sensor cable and the car started right up, worked great for a month and now I am right back where I started. Cranks, No Start. Tried changing the sensor cable again thinking it was faulty but it didn't start. @1Wayfix gonna try replacing this relay.
@@jordanwalsh1421 open the relay. And check the welding points. See how they look . Let us know. 💪💪💪
I might have the same problem with my Volvo 240. I’ll try this and hope it works.
Open the relay. The white one. And check the welding points
Any question leave here i will do my best to help. Thank you 😀
This car ( Volvo 240's) is set up to cut power to the fuel pump whenever there is an ignition issue to avoid flooding the vehicle. In my case I had a bad spark plug wire.
Good found. I glad you got it fix it. 😃
Well? What is the ignition issue? Please I’m desperate
Thank you I am going out to check now… problem is I do not know how to give power to the fuse 4 like you did to see if fuel pump will go on
@@jeannebenz If you got q jumper cables. Use those. Connect. The positive. Jumper cable to the. Positive. Terminal of the battery. Then bring it to the driver side. Then be carful not to touch the frame. Then get a short piece of speaker. O any wire. Clamp to the end of the jumper cable. Now touch 1 side of the fuse. Then the other one. If fuel pump is good. U will hear the zzzzzz. Noise.
ReLay my thanks
@@steveprudell9976 thank you. 🙏
Where can I get the wiring diagrams?
For. What specific system ? ?
Mi carro no le llega la corriente a la bomba de gasolina
Ya. Verifico el fusible #4?
El que se enseña en el minuto 2:10
Si su fusible esta bien. Entonces. Puede aplica corriente como se indica. En el video. Despues del minito 2:15. Si la bomba se activa entonces su bomba esta bien. El siguiente paso es verificar el relay de la bomba en el minuto 4:50
Buenos días, Donde puedo comprar el relay de la bomba. Como lo puedo solicitar?