Your channel is underrated. Hope your subscriber numbers go up because your material and content is nothing short of exceptional. keep doing what you doing.
I'd use hotmelt and cut the front to save vane glueing but great info man. I completely agree with bareshaft tuning. If you can shoot very consistently, a bullet hole bareshaft=broadhead flying true. Infact if I shoot my broadhead when its calm outside and it does not hit center on a good break, I immediate shoot paper with a bareshaft and see if my bow is out of tune. Almost always the paper tear reflects what a broadhead does down range. Because of that I always keep a bareahaft of all my setups as a test of my tune.
Dude you a good as teacher. Lol best channel for lessons by far. I always come to u in the end when watching others to learn but u simple worded and understandable
Just like, " Back in the Day" when you had to make sure that when I glued my nocks first, to orientate the grain of the wood , perpendicular to the riser, to have consist spine from arrow to arrow, and since shooting with fingers puts a horizontal flex into the arrow. Release shooting puts a vertical flex into the arrow.
Great explanation. Sometimes it's tricky to figure out if the fix is rest, shims, or spine but I guess you learn over time. Bare shafts are great to practice with because it shows any hand torque.
Would love to see what you do for pre season maintenance to keep your bow in tip top shape before you hit the field. I feel like that’s a subject that gets put to the side with most channels but could be the difference between success and eating tag soup.
I agree, it is a process. I do recommend to most people that they should error on the side of stiff though. Also keep in mind, most arrow spines, as far as I know, are determined at 28".
Also, can lean is normal. Bows with split yokes are designed to lean the cam one way or the other so you can tune without moving your rest inside or outside of center shot
love your videos! I'm also a lefty. the question I have is when I bare shaft tune and get a perfect bullet hole with the bare shaft from 6 to16 feet (and I mean perfect bullet hole. tiny even tears around hole no tear in any direction). I was surprised at 60 yrds that my groups were hitting left (4 to 10 inches) . At 20 yds my groups were hitting center. So I proceeded to group walk back tune and adjusted the rest accordingly. I got the groups to center at 60 yrds and 20yrds, but as I presumed I no longer had that perfect bullet hole with the bare shaft at 6 to 16 feet. So did I take my bow out of tune after walk back tuning . I was always curious about this. same question for broadhead tuning. Would love to get your input on this. thanks Scott
AT WHAT YARDAGE ARE YOU BEGINNING THE COMPARISON BETWEEN BARE-SHAFT AND FLETCHED. AND THEN DO YOU MOVE BACK TO CONFIRM AS YOU WOULD IN A NOTMAL PAPER TUNE
Do you add electrical tape to the back to compensate for fletching weight when you bare shaft? Correct me if I’m wrong but wouldn’t the lack of weight in the back of the arrow change the dynamic spine if that “fletching weight” is missing?
Yes, Everything makes a difference, feathers only weigh, a couple of grains by any plastic fletching, weighs "a ton" Even Nocks, can change the tune , considerably. Take a Easton X nock, on a 5mm F.M.J, bare shaft, tuned. Then put on a Nockturnal lighted nock, and watch your tune go out the window ! Guaranteed the spine gets stiffer, because of the weight difference and it will be Nock Low, because the dimension of the thickness, of the nocks are not the same. Easton X nocks are .160 and Nockturnals are .190 thick. Being a "Precision Machinist" for 45 years, I measure Everything !😊
So if I have to move my rest out of center shot to get a bullet hole with one arrow (Gold Tip Pierce) and planes like you said where it hits left but tail is right on target but then I shoot VAP TKOs and money. Any suggestions?
I’m shooting 300 spines. And my arrows go right down the middle at 70lbs draw weight. And at 31” in Length. Do you think bumping up to 75lbs will make my arrows too weak? I know I’ll just have to shoot it to figure it out maybe I’m just asking in you experience what’s ur thoughts?
At 31” and 75 lbs you’d be right on the verge of being too weak. Probably would notice much shooting field points, but broad heads might be a little erratic
You can use a lighter on the Victory TKO Rip arrows to remove the standard insert they use. I literally just took off two of them with a bic. Maybe 10 seconds tops to remove one.
I shoot black eagle arrows. I ran them through my spine tester and then did your nock tuning test. I noticed that almost all the arrows shoot a bullet hole when the nock is 180 degrees rotated.
So I just solved my arrow problem kinda similar to what your saying. 30 inch arrow with 150 up front and my rest was kicked out to the left hard. I'm rh shooter. I added another 50 grains and I got a tail left tear which ended up bringing my rest in some. So my bow likes a softer spine. Could of dropped to 340 spine but I don't have the money for another dozen. Total weight up front now is 210 grains. 507 total weight
Your channel is underrated. Hope your subscriber numbers go up because your material and content is nothing short of exceptional. keep doing what you doing.
Agreed
Your bare shafting tuning explanation, solved all my issues. Than on top of the broadhead tuning. thank you.
I'd use hotmelt and cut the front to save vane glueing but great info man. I completely agree with bareshaft tuning. If you can shoot very consistently, a bullet hole bareshaft=broadhead flying true. Infact if I shoot my broadhead when its calm outside and it does not hit center on a good break, I immediate shoot paper with a bareshaft and see if my bow is out of tune. Almost always the paper tear reflects what a broadhead does down range. Because of that I always keep a bareahaft of all my setups as a test of my tune.
Dude you a good as teacher. Lol best channel for lessons by far. I always come to u in the end when watching others to learn but u simple worded and understandable
Just like, " Back in the Day" when you had to make sure that when I glued my nocks first, to orientate the grain of the wood , perpendicular to the riser, to have consist spine from arrow to arrow, and since shooting with fingers puts a horizontal flex into the arrow. Release shooting puts a vertical flex into the arrow.
Really like this stuff! Thanks a ton Cal!!!
Tune a bow from the beginning to the end
If I used alll these techniques it would be a two week video haha. But from box to bullet hole is pretty easy, I’ll do it.
Thanks for a very informative and easily understandable lesson. I am going to my club today to try this.
Great explanation. Sometimes it's tricky to figure out if the fix is rest, shims, or spine but I guess you learn over time. Bare shafts are great to practice with because it shows any hand torque.
Awesome video thank you so much for all your content!!!!
This video is very well done , very good information ,and like all your video's they are all very helpful.
Would love to see what you do for pre season maintenance to keep your bow in tip top shape before you hit the field. I feel like that’s a subject that gets put to the side with most channels but could be the difference between success and eating tag soup.
Great video
Thanks for this.
Another great video, very well explained....
I agree, it is a process. I do recommend to most people that they should error on the side of stiff though. Also keep in mind, most arrow spines, as far as I know, are determined at 28".
Make a suggestion, you should use also a chalk board so you can explain your point. Excellent video
Just FYI, arrows can fly with the tail off center due to timing issues and, in my case, cam lean.
Yeah this video was made with the implication that cam timing is set and your bow is tuned through paper
Also, can lean is normal. Bows with split yokes are designed to lean the cam one way or the other so you can tune without moving your rest inside or outside of center shot
love your videos! I'm also a lefty. the question I have is when I bare shaft tune and get a perfect bullet hole with the bare shaft from 6 to16 feet (and I mean perfect bullet hole. tiny even tears around hole no tear in any direction). I was surprised at 60 yrds that my groups were hitting left (4 to 10 inches) . At 20 yds my groups were hitting center. So I proceeded to group walk back tune and adjusted the rest accordingly. I got the groups to center at 60 yrds and 20yrds, but as I presumed I no longer had that perfect bullet hole with the bare shaft at 6 to 16 feet.
So did I take my bow out of tune after walk back tuning . I was always curious about this. same question for broadhead tuning.
Would love to get your input on this.
thanks
Scott
Awesome info....dammit I just cut a dozen shafts 2 days ago
Thanks i am in the process now and i was doing it right thank got cause i cut all my arrow time to shoot and see what happens.
Yeah it annoys the crap out of me having to tune my compound bow every 500 shots .thinking of getting into recurve archery or real archery
To clear up confusion that is all over EVERY archery UA-camrs page regarding paper tuning.
make it simple: follow the point.
X10 Protours have no stiff side.
True! But nobody is going to hunt with pro tours
@@InsideOutPrecision nobody has tried it yet.
The glass is half full😀
AT WHAT YARDAGE ARE YOU BEGINNING THE COMPARISON BETWEEN BARE-SHAFT AND FLETCHED. AND THEN DO YOU MOVE BACK TO CONFIRM AS YOU WOULD IN A NOTMAL PAPER TUNE
Do you add electrical tape to the back to compensate for fletching weight when you bare shaft? Correct me if I’m wrong but wouldn’t the lack of weight in the back of the arrow change the dynamic spine if that “fletching weight” is missing?
I’ve never noticed it making a difference.
Yes, Everything makes a difference, feathers only weigh, a couple of grains by any plastic fletching, weighs
"a ton" Even Nocks, can change the tune , considerably.
Take a Easton X nock, on a 5mm F.M.J, bare shaft, tuned. Then put on a
Nockturnal lighted nock, and watch your tune go out the window ! Guaranteed the spine gets stiffer, because of the weight difference and it will be Nock Low, because the dimension of the thickness, of the nocks are not the same. Easton X nocks are .160
and Nockturnals are
.190 thick. Being a "Precision Machinist" for 45 years, I measure Everything !😊
Thanks man. Pretty sure I was one of the dudes that asked for this. Exactly what I ws hoping for.
Does this hold true for broadhead flight too? My broadheads hit to the right but the shaft crosses over to the left.. Left hand shooter.
Can you also identify what you consider a Microshaft is?
4mm or .166 INSIDE diameter is a microshaft
Axis arrows don’t have a spine because of how they manufactured though.
what about for bare shaft, going to top hats, for the bare shaft adjustments, versus moving rest? thoughts on that
Personally would say go for it. String is inline with the center just the same as the rest is.
So if I have to move my rest out of center shot to get a bullet hole with one arrow (Gold Tip Pierce) and planes like you said where it hits left but tail is right on target but then I shoot VAP TKOs and money. Any suggestions?
Always glad of free info I need every excuse possible... lol Thank you for taking the time and sharing...
I’m shooting 300 spines. And my arrows go right down the middle at 70lbs draw weight. And at 31” in Length. Do you think bumping up to 75lbs will make my arrows too weak? I know I’ll just have to shoot it to figure it out maybe I’m just asking in you experience what’s ur thoughts?
At 31” and 75 lbs you’d be right on the verge of being too weak. Probably would notice much shooting field points, but broad heads might be a little erratic
@@InsideOutPrecision I appreciate it!
Are those bows in cardboard boxs right above the targets you shoot at lol
Haha no they’re empty
Process indeed. How could Geronimo hit the side of a barn? This is very educational and I thank you for it.
Would you trust that 4mm for roosies???
I prefer the Victory RIP or VAP with a little weight. It'll go through two of them.
You can use a lighter on the Victory TKO Rip arrows to remove the standard insert they use. I literally just took off two of them with a bic. Maybe 10 seconds tops to remove one.
Great content bro like always. Thx 🏹
I shoot black eagle arrows. I ran them through my spine tester and then did your nock tuning test. I noticed that almost all the arrows shoot a bullet hole when the nock is 180 degrees rotated.
Very helpful, thank you.
So I just solved my arrow problem kinda similar to what your saying. 30 inch arrow with 150 up front and my rest was kicked out to the left hard. I'm rh shooter. I added another 50 grains and I got a tail left tear which ended up bringing my rest in some. So my bow likes a softer spine. Could of dropped to 340 spine but I don't have the money for another dozen. Total weight up front now is 210 grains. 507 total weight
What rest do you recommend and why?
Do you ever offer classes??????? Like lectures?
Pretty sure he does
Will you consider Superdrive Micro 4mm for your arrows? Will it be considered an improvement over Axis 4mm?
To the left , to left.. to the right, to the right..love your videos but this one was confusing like a Beyoncé song..
👍
Just fyi: You don't need - "A lot of Pro's say."
Hope it helps