There are many folks and several tuning charts that disagree with moving the field point towards the broadhead. But you are 100% right. Your broadhead tuning video really helped me understand the tuning process.
As a newer shooter, I really appreciate your honesty and perspective on the whole tuning process...I am still working on grip, sight alignment, pulling through, keeping my shoulder down, etc....need to work on these before worrying about the micro tuning stuff!!
I appreciate all of your videos. You say you get a laugh when guys leave the shop with a well tuned bow and get home and change everything and come back a couple days later to tell you it's not shooting right, only to have you show them how far out of tune they've made it while tinkering. Having operated a bow shop in Utah for over 20 years, I can't believe how fast people are ready to throw down $250 for a new handheld release aid because they think it'll make them shoot like the pro guy on UA-cam, but if you suggest to them a $30 lesson and they scoff at you and walk out. The "Kiss" rule (keep it simple, stupid) is a thing because people tend to overcomplicate things - like tuning bows and building "adult arrows" - way more than needed. If we took as much time and effort to have good form, we'd realize that one could shoot an out-of-tune bow with incorrectly spined arrows and still shoot a generally good score.
Another good video. I appreciate you sharing your time to help archers. Let's get this video shared and liked. Let's get him to 50K. Already very fast growing channel.
I've watched this video before and loved it but I keep coming back to it because I'm thinking of selling my current bow and get a new one to start this whole process and gain confidence in setting my own equipment.
I can’t say it enough thank you for your videos. I was trying to bare shaft tune at 40 yard the other day and it was rather frustrating. But I got the bare and fletched shaft touching at 20 so I am good with that.
I do the same as you, except I don’t waste my time shooting fletched through paper. Bare shaft through paper, or bare shaft into a foam target to nock tune and forget the paper all together, then bare shaft tune out to 20 yards. Done. Check a broad head, but usually have to do nothing. Group tuning kind of shows that paper tuning is a starting place, not and ending place.
Agree,I'll start off sometimes with a paper tune to see if there is anything crazy going on initially (like tophats/shims beed to be changed and I won't be near a press)
I don't bare shaft tune because when fletched it corrects it. But everyone tune different. I start with paper tuning, then walk back then torque tune the rest by moving in n out to get the most forgivable setup.
Quick question, are the Trophy Taker Smackdown Pros really not as good as people mention? I recently purchased one, installed it, but haven't shot it yet. I will be using it for hunting but dont want it to fail out in the field. Any inputs would be great.
I like to Quick description but it's really hard for me not to continue messing with adjusting my bow because I have a problem of trying to be a perfectionist and I'm very stubborn and refuse to let anything beat me...
Love your videos. Question. How often do you check your tune throughout the hunting or 3D season or whatever where you're shooting a lot or hunting alot etc. AND, what do you do if you haven't shot for a couple of months? Do you retune every season? Your thoughts and ideas on that would be great.
@@InsideOutPrecision But do you shoot through paper again to check your tune or do you just shoot your broadheads and fieldpoints at various yardages to make sure they are still grouping together? I'm just curious what the pros do to keep checking their tune throughout the season(s)? Thanks again.
I’m confused about adjusting your rest to get a bullet hole through paper and then the next thing you do is shoot bare shaft at 20 yards and then adjust your rest even more. Wouldn’t that negate all the adjustments you just did to correct any tears?
Hey man had a question, my "pro" shop in my area is kinda sub par I'm getting a tail left tear, and they didn't really seem to want to help me out, just wanted your input on what I should tell them, even moving rest to the right still get a tail left, I have a mathews and wanted to confirm that I should get the cam spaced to the left to correct the issue I'm having, thanks so much appreciate everything u do bud 👌
@@InsideOutPrecision awesome I really appreciate this, this is what I thought and to start i asked them to move the cam left and they just moved the rest around and said it was good when its still tail left, going back tomorrow and just wanted to confirm with you which way to tell them to move the cam, they also tried telling me on paper to move rest with tail not point which i know is incorrect, thank you again
His advice is shit, turning a knock on a bare shaft is a waste of time also, you just use two or 3 bare shafts and you will soon see a pattern to correct, can’t stand these clowns giving useless advice. There are many better teachers out there.
@@steve8828 lol ok once or twice huh. You might want to shoot out to multiple distances like hunting situations using a fixed blade broadhead. I will shoot 10 thru 80 at least.
You’re both right. Bare shaft through paper at closer range will tell you the exact same thing as broadheads vs field points at extended ranges. Just comes down to personal preference and possibly saving some abuse on targets and arrows.
I disagree. I've seen several people struggle and struggle for a long time because they are so far out of tune (hand torque). If you're not close enough the rest doesn't do what one would expect with fixed broadheads. If they spent 10-15 minutes tossing a bare shaft through the paper, they'd catch the errors of excessive hand torque etc. If so, they then can make a form or cam adjustments to get the arrows coming off straight; they'd then be close enough that micro-tunning on fixed broadheads is all they need, followed by normal sight seting.
There are many folks and several tuning charts that disagree with moving the field point towards the broadhead. But you are 100% right. Your broadhead tuning video really helped me understand the tuning process.
You have a gift of breaking down archery talk into easy digestible language. Thanks!
As a newer shooter, I really appreciate your honesty and perspective on the whole tuning process...I am still working on grip, sight alignment, pulling through, keeping my shoulder down, etc....need to work on these before worrying about the micro tuning stuff!!
I appreciate all of your videos. You say you get a laugh when guys leave the shop with a well tuned bow and get home and change everything and come back a couple days later to tell you it's not shooting right, only to have you show them how far out of tune they've made it while tinkering.
Having operated a bow shop in Utah for over 20 years, I can't believe how fast people are ready to throw down $250 for a new handheld release aid because they think it'll make them shoot like the pro guy on UA-cam, but if you suggest to them a $30 lesson and they scoff at you and walk out.
The "Kiss" rule (keep it simple, stupid) is a thing because people tend to overcomplicate things - like tuning bows and building "adult arrows" - way more than needed. If we took as much time and effort to have good form, we'd realize that one could shoot an out-of-tune bow with incorrectly spined arrows and still shoot a generally good score.
Best advice I’ve ever heard on tuning . Thanks a bunch
Another good video. I appreciate you sharing your time to help archers. Let's get this video shared and liked. Let's get him to 50K. Already very fast growing channel.
I've watched this video before and loved it but I keep coming back to it because I'm thinking of selling my current bow and get a new one to start this whole process and gain confidence in setting my own equipment.
Thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge and experience with us, great video as always !
For me, a six inch group at sixty is pretty damn good.
I can’t say it enough thank you for your videos. I was trying to bare shaft tune at 40 yard the other day and it was rather frustrating. But I got the bare and fletched shaft touching at 20 so I am good with that.
Yes great information
Excellent points
It’s interesting your the only one I have ever See say to move the rest to the broad head impact. I guess I’ll have to try this for myself.
Can you do Matthews cam timing video?
Kind regards Robert
Awesome. Such good information.
I do the same as you, except I don’t waste my time shooting fletched through paper. Bare shaft through paper, or bare shaft into a foam target to nock tune and forget the paper all together, then bare shaft tune out to 20 yards. Done. Check a broad head, but usually have to do nothing.
Group tuning kind of shows that paper tuning is a starting place, not and ending place.
Agree,I'll start off sometimes with a paper tune to see if there is anything crazy going on initially (like tophats/shims beed to be changed and I won't be near a press)
Solid video as always
Thank you for doing this explanation
If you get a bullet hole with it fletched, why do you need to bareshaft tune it? That confuses me.
Paper is just a very rough start. Bare shaft tuning shows how the arrow is behaving down range
HELPFUL!
Good to see…Fellow lefty and will hopefully be up to the shop soon, if not, may have to ship it to you…👊🏻😉
I don't bare shaft tune because when fletched it corrects it. But everyone tune different. I start with paper tuning, then walk back then torque tune the rest by moving in n out to get the most forgivable setup.
Quick question, are the Trophy Taker Smackdown Pros really not as good as people mention? I recently purchased one, installed it, but haven't shot it yet. I will be using it for hunting but dont want it to fail out in the field. Any inputs would be great.
Thanks very very much. Perfect explanation
How far out from center shot (13/16) are you okay with moving the rest/arrow before you consider adjusting cams, shimming, etc? Thank you!
I like to Quick description but it's really hard for me not to continue messing with adjusting my bow because I have a problem of trying to be a perfectionist and I'm very stubborn and refuse to let anything beat me...
Love your videos. Question. How often do you check your tune throughout the hunting or 3D season or whatever where you're shooting a lot or hunting alot etc. AND, what do you do if you haven't shot for a couple of months? Do you retune every season? Your thoughts and ideas on that would be great.
Yeah check my tune pretty often. At least once every month and always right before hunting season.
@@InsideOutPrecision But do you shoot through paper again to check your tune or do you just shoot your broadheads and fieldpoints at various yardages to make sure they are still grouping together? I'm just curious what the pros do to keep checking their tune throughout the season(s)? Thanks again.
Good information brother, this will help alot of shooter's!!!!!
Practice Practice Practice is the best group tune then play with the bow
I’m confused about adjusting your rest to get a bullet hole through paper and then the next thing you do is shoot bare shaft at 20 yards and then adjust your rest even more. Wouldn’t that negate all the adjustments you just did to correct any tears?
The tear through paper is just a starting point.
@@InsideOutPrecision thank you very much for the response. Good to know
Hey man had a question, my "pro" shop in my area is kinda sub par I'm getting a tail left tear, and they didn't really seem to want to help me out, just wanted your input on what I should tell them, even moving rest to the right still get a tail left, I have a mathews and wanted to confirm that I should get the cam spaced to the left to correct the issue I'm having, thanks so much appreciate everything u do bud 👌
Yeah it’s super simple, they just have to push one or both cams to the left
There are three different sets so there’s really no reason you should ever have to move the rest out of center shot
@@InsideOutPrecision awesome I really appreciate this, this is what I thought and to start i asked them to move the cam left and they just moved the rest around and said it was good when its still tail left, going back tomorrow and just wanted to confirm with you which way to tell them to move the cam, they also tried telling me on paper to move rest with tail not point which i know is incorrect, thank you again
So if I bring my Bowtech bow to the bow rack can i request you to work on my bow? I ordered a new string and cable from Winner's Choice.
Yeah if I’m free I can work on it. We all do things the same way though so if I’m not here you’ll still be well taken care of!
On a v3x what cam is perfected to touch first with cam timing? They are super close but bottom cam touches first? Is this correct?
If bottom cam is touching first by just a hair then you need to add a half twist to the bottom cable. They need to hit at the same time!
You want them touching at the same time
Does the flex of the arrow throughout the shot affect the result through paper, especially at different distances?
If the arrow is spines correctly you should be able to get a bullet hole from 10 ft 20 yds in my experience
@@InsideOutPrecision awesome, thanks for the quick reply! Best to you on your new endeavor! You'll kill it!
How do I correct the ata length on my bow it its about 3/8" long?
What bow?
When u bare sharft what about the weight difference from the wraps or the fletchings? Do u put electric tape on the bare shaft to offset the weight?
I have heard both ways. I do not. I can’t tell any difference.
@@steve8828 100% agree, I have never noticed any difference
What stabilizers r u running?
Shrewd Onyx
i don't know what any of this means
Shooting a V3X 33 this year?!?
Why not just start paper with bs?
His advice is shit, turning a knock on a bare shaft is a waste of time also, you just use two or 3 bare shafts and you will soon see a pattern to correct, can’t stand these clowns giving useless advice. There are many better teachers out there.
Bareshaft tuning is a waste of time on a hunting setup. Still have to shoot broadheads and make sure they are hitting the same spot as field points
I disagree. I have to shoot a broad head once or twice to confirm what I already know. Way easier on targets and broad heads.
@@steve8828 lol ok once or twice huh. You might want to shoot out to multiple distances like hunting situations using a fixed blade broadhead. I will shoot 10 thru 80 at least.
You’re both right. Bare shaft through paper at closer range will tell you the exact same thing as broadheads vs field points at extended ranges. Just comes down to personal preference and possibly saving some abuse on targets and arrows.
I disagree. I've seen several people struggle and struggle for a long time because they are so far out of tune (hand torque). If you're not close enough the rest doesn't do what one would expect with fixed broadheads. If they spent 10-15 minutes tossing a bare shaft through the paper, they'd catch the errors of excessive hand torque etc. If so, they then can make a form or cam adjustments to get the arrows coming off straight; they'd then be close enough that micro-tunning on fixed broadheads is all they need, followed by normal sight seting.
@@JIM....... bareshaft is totally different than a fletched one. Paper tune fletched yes. Then broadheads compared to field points.
Callum have not seen you in ages mate,
Col
Take a silver sharpie and draw I fine line through your rest segments to know beginning setting