Do This Before Giving a Painting to Your Client!
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- #oilpainting #framing #varnishing
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I don't put the certificate on the backing, but directly on the back of the picture (I'm doing photographs, not paintings though). The certificate is meant to certify the authenticity of the picture for decades to come and should not be removable from it, also I don't trust the owners to keep the original backing all the time. If the buyer wishes it, I cut a window in the backing where the certificate is.
Additionally, in this times and date, I number my certificates and take a picture of the photograph and the certificate side by side and add it to my database of work sold. With this I can proof the authenticity of the certificate anytime it is challenged - or proof along the consecutive order of listed numbers in the database that a certificate is illegitimate.
I'm not an internationally known artist who might actually profit from that, but it is satisfying to do such a thing at the highest possible standard, especially since it costs close to nothing, just a little time.
I'd permanently affix it as well. Of course, with knowledge, anything can be removed from anything. However, my work isn't Rembrandt, or Monet, or even Basquiat (I wouldn't do anything that looked like that anyway), so I'm pretty sure that no one would try to reproduce any painting I've ever done 😁
Oh heck just right out of the back of your canvas with a sharpie. Forget the certificates.
@@aprildegele1510it doesn’t matter
Your work is unique special. Works (hundreds life time of works), from someone were stolen and falsified -
Sign and deter thieves. Their end is not good, so help them avoid it just the same
I was married to an artist and picture framer for 14 years, meaning I had my own professional framer. My only cost was materials. After we separated, I was shocked when I took something to be custom-framed & found the frame would cost twice what I was planning to ask for the painting. I ended up having it matted to fit a standard frame. Then I taught myself how to cut mats, bought a shrink wrapper, and purchased frames in standard sizes on line. I also bought UV protective glass from a frame supplier where I bought my matboard & occasionally moulding. It came in packages of 10 or 20 sheets & was less expensive than having it cut individually. (Every time I tried cutting glass myself, I either broke it or got rough edges.)
They also sell hangers that I love. They go in the corners, are triangular with saw-teeth. Because there are 2, the nails don’t even have to be level to hang it levelly. The frame never shifts or gets out of level and the frame doesn’t hang away from the wall. They come in 2 versions, one for wooden frames & one that fits the slots of metal section frames.
The easiest frames are metal section frames, which mostly have simple clean lines that don’t detract from the image. I generally stick to black, gold, or silver, but they come in many styles & colors.
Now, I always create art that fits standard-sized frames. That way I can either buy a fairly inexpensive frame for the customer or the client can buy a reasonably-priced frame online or at a store (in the U.S.) such as Michael’s or Walmart that will fit. For work on paper, I create art that fits standard-sized mats. I usually sell the work matted in shrink-wrap, but will provide a frame if wanted.
Also, I occasionally buy a cheap but sturdy frame in good condition at a yard sale or at a 2nd-hand shop and then create something to fit.
Reason #1 not to end your marriage except for very serious reasons.. it usually doesn't work out economically.
@@cg8397 Actually, we worked out a financial deal that benefited both of us for several years after we separated until our state passed no-fault divorce. That was in the early 1980s. Then I learned how to file my own divorce (easy without joint property or children,) That cost me a total of $35 filing fees.
May I share a couple of tips in the hope it will be of some help and inspiration. Firstly, I'd like to suggest a dust free environment to house the painting when drying the varnish.
For small paintings, I often use a Tupperware tub and place it upside-down over the painting. It helps to drill some holes on the bottom of the tub, in order to help with airflow. Otherwise, for larger projects, I suggest building a box-frame and surround it with clear plastic and install a door at the front. Since most of my paintings don't exceed more than 3 feet in height, my frame is a 3 x 3 foot square and can accommodate most of my work. On the odd occasion I make anything larger, I risk it. The reason why I started using this method had to do with laying out a painting once to dry and despite being careful (with no pets), a clear amount of dust had settled. So, I adopted this method, which ensured I was safe, but not sorry.
My second suggestion has to with the string for hanging the painting. Perhaps you could tie your bow more to the left or right of the painting. Having the knot in the centre could prove problematic when hanging the painting because the knot can get in the way when hanging the painting and you wish to balance it. This means if you want to get to the other side of the knot you must remove the painting and rehang it. If the knot is placed to the side, it eliminates this issue effectively. Guess I'm too much of a perfectionist and wish to avoid any little issues a client may have with my work.
Hope this helps. Love the painting. Clearly, you're a talented artist.
I like Walmart for frames. I can get a 16x20 in frame for $13 and then you can spray paint it and put texture on it and all sorts of stuff and it's really a lot of fun too. And you could be totally creative about the color you use. I really am kind of into gold and silver but I will put other colors on it too and maybe splatter some spray paint. The frame can be just as much fun as the picture
first smart comment here! bloody nauseating - the video!
I think it would be good to do a video about copy writing artwork, there are a lot of people around that are more than happy to steal and rip off artists creations. Thanks for your video, very interesting.
Might be a good idea to photograph all your works before they leave your studio if you don’t already do that. Handy for future use in perhaps a book or promo piece for instance. 🤔 I enjoyed the video. Thanks 👍🏻🙂
Thanks 🙂 yes I do that too
I always had a little blurb about the copyright, so they don't think it's their image now and can make note cards or something. I learned a different way to do the back, to use brown kraft paper and double sided special tape, the paper covered the whole back. Great that you show artists how to present their painting after it's done so it looks professional.
Thanks! That's a really good point, I think include a bit about copyright on my future paintings
@mary mcandrew7667
I agree with this important comment about the need to add a copyright to your work. Also, I would like to add to this comment concerning another often overlooked mention that there is no actual copyright on ideas as such as many people can have similar ideas and produce work that can appear similar naturally. For example; a painting of a Cow, or a Lion, or a painting of a seascape, etc.
However, that said, it is equally important to be aware that if one is basing their artwork on something genuinely produced by someone else. Then, ideally, one must first obtain permission where possible, and if this is so, then the original artist must be credited in recognition of the original copyright. It is important to use terns like "Thus artwork is based solely on an original artwork by Name, Date, and Title or simply use: "After artwork by..., artwork title, and dated. " I would also like to add that copyright issues can be complex, and it is always best to check online to keep informed of any changes to copyright laws of the country one resides in Ashwell as the addition of the copyright laws of any country that ones work may be sold in.
I hope this information is helpful. 😅😊 16:14
Interesting point. I’ve sold photographs and naturally assumed the copyright was mine alone because I hadn’t taken them specifically for people but just offered prints for sale. One magazine actually contacted me to use a photo they spotted on a guy’s mantelpiece and payed me. But if someone strikes a deal beforehand to paint a picture for them surely the copyright is theirs? Same as a newspaper taking on a photographer/writer to cover an event for them, which I’ve also done: the payment was specified up front.
@@TerryMcGearyScotlandThey're purchasing the painting/image not all rights associated with the painting/image unless otherwise specified.
@@Not_Attached It's not unless they specified that in the contract of the commission. It's still the intellectual property of the artist. The subject and the medium aren't relevant.
I add an inventory number that looks like a code, so it might be 344-A-24. That would be my 344th piece, A for January, 24 for the year. And I also physically sign the side or back of the canvas where it can’t ever bleed through. If a panel, sign the back, with a permanent marker.
That's good to know, thanks for sharing :)
I add an inventory number too and list them in a spreadsheet. Sometimes I change the title of unsold paintings for different exhibitions or clients but the inventory number never changes. You never know you might be famous one day and people want to know your back catalog of early works!
Ooh I like codes. Maybe sometimes you could try Morse code
I also give an inventory number. For example, #240204AP-WL3
That stands for the year, month and day completed (2024 Feb 04) AP is for acrylic painting, and the WL3 is for the title, in this case “Winter Landscape 3.” I usually don’t need to add that last part for the title, but occasionally I complete more than one piece of art on the same day, so that differentiates them. So I add that to all.
I keep a database with info about each piece of art with more info such as the size and weight (in case I have to ship it.) I list the materials I used, basic color scheme, estimated cost of materials, sale price, buyer’s name & contact info.
I also keep a file with photos of each piece as I complete them.
I have a standard form I include with each sale. It has my short bio and general & specific info about the piece. I have the basic form saved by medium and usually only have to plug-in a few pieces of info. For example, I create some 3D works made from many different materials, so I mention if they are or are not waterproof and how to clean them.
In the U.S. I have to pay income taxes on art sales, but I can subtract the cost of materials, shipping, etc. so I keep a detailed database of art supplies when I buy them. For example, if I buy a dozen canvases, I list the total cost, then the price of each. Sometimes I have to guess how much I used of something, such as paint.
I admit that I hate this part of being an artist and always feel like it takes too much time away from what I love, creating.
I always clean the glass with Isopropyl alcohol and give it time to dry. I also wear lint free gloves when handling anything so I don’t leave finger prints on the glass or picture. Great video by the way
I would suggest two certificates, one affixed to the back of the panel or canvas the other to back of the frame.
great idea
I've been looking at having a Stamp made with my logo and name, a maker's mark, to stamp the back of my handmade panels,I will now include the Certificate of Authenticity info with it. Brilliant, thank you.
Great informational video. I also take several photos of the art for my records.
I thought this would be about curating and keeping records of your work, lol. This is an important step in making your name as an artist...a database should be set up to have the following...a unique accession number for every work, the buyer, their contact info. (buyers become collectors, and should be part of your marketing), the price sold for, details about when painting, inspiration, etc., a good clear photo, the measurements, etc. I have a great big notebook of my dad's work, having curated it...even if nothing else happens with your career, your nearest and dearest will be glad to have a record of it. If you are serious about reproductions, a professional image should be taken (including the name of the work, measurements, date, and your signature ON the transparency or high quality digital image). This is all VERY difficult to do after the fact, and if you are serious about having a career should be a part of your routine...there should also be a contract with the owner about who has rights of reproduction (it should be you) and that you approve all reproductions if you care that people don't do weird things with your work. Just some thoughts off the top of my head, might be good to look in to and do a video on.
A family friend is an artist. In the early days starting out he learned how to build frames and cut mats to save money and maximize his profits. Even after all his years of success and accomplishments he still does his own framing.
That's cool! I know a few artists who make and gild their own frames. It's an art in itself! Definitely if you know what you're doing it saves money from going to the framer and the artist normally has a good feel for what goes best with their painting
Wow That is a fantastic thing to do, certainly would love to know how to do frames.
@GeorgeFrederickThomas I knew artists who did their own framing when I worked for a molding distributor. They would come pick up the pieces they had precut and some came by to have prints heat mounted on foam board. I learned quite a bit at that job and had a lot of fun.
@@TriniRoyQuiReyesDomestika does a really good free online picture framing course.
This is not only good advice, its one of the most important for artists. Thank you.
Thank you! I'm happy it was helpful :)
Very good to know. Even though I’ve only sold two paintings ( and one of those was to my son who insisted on paying money into my account for it!😂) you never know what commissions might come my way. Still even for home and friends this is good practice.
Thanks! I hope it's helpful and many more sales come your way :)
For framing tape use a credit card to work it into the corners then lay the card across the tape and pull up from one side like you're tearing it, it will tear along the line created by the card.
Use an awl to start your screw holes.
Making it loose will not cause the painting to hang further from the wall but it should be loose enough and the anchor points high enough that a 120° slack will bring it almost to the middle of the top of the frame. This makes it easy to hang, easy to center, and having it hang close to the top means that if you're hanging it underneath another frame, like it might in a gallery it's easy to judge the distance you need to put the mount.
I also use picture wire, but string is fine.
-17 years art restoration and framing. 29 years as an artist-
Thank you, that's good to know
Yeah, no problem I work in art restoration with my grandfather, who has almost 60 years of experience. When he got out an old gift card when putting framing tape up I thought, 'not a bad idea, get out the wrinkles, etc.' Then he used it to tear a perfect line in it and I was mindblown, so I always keep a gift card or two in my toolbox sometimes they send you the little fake ones in the mail and I save those too.
When framing use a soft cloth to lay down on your table first so you do not scratch the frame. Very nice video also.
That's a good idea. I'll do that next time. Thanks :)
I use a bath towel :)
Good info about labeling a painting in a frame. I like to place paint layer and color info directly on the backside of the painting with a soft grahite pencil. The graphite can be sealed in and will be detectable forever. The use of a gimlet helps in starting the screws. The gimlet makes it easier to keep the screw straight.
Thanks! that's a nice touch. That makes sense using a gimlet before screwing
I use thin nails and bend them into loops behind the frame because I always have that problem with screws going in crooked and sometimes splitting the wood. Didn't know about a gimlet and I absolutely need one now, thanks!
I find retouch varnish gives a lower gloss, helps protect the painting, dries fast and helps intensify colours. Your painting is lovely and you framed it well.
Thank you so much :)
The big takeaway from this is the fabulous advice of including information about the painting with the painting. That is super helpful to collectors and painting conservators.
However, I’d never use that varnish. It contains damar which yellows, darkens, and gets brittle over time. Conservators strongly recommend against any damar-based varnishes. Instead, wait until the thickest part of your painting won’t budge under fingernail pressure then apply a modern synthetic varnish like Gamblin’s Gamvar. Gamvar is permanent varnish but is easily removable with mild odorless mineral spirits which has little to no effect on a fully oxidized oil paint film.
Happy painting!
Thanks! I've heard good things about Gamvar that it's a permanent varnish and you don't have to wait as long to use it as most other varnishes I'll have to try it. Happy painting!
I had no idea there was such a thing as "framers tape". Thank you for the tip!
I usually get started with the frame. I collect them at flea markets, preferably old gold frames.
It's often necessary to restore lacking parts. Then I cut the panel, add some layers of gesso and try to find a motif that corresponds to the frame.
I always use picture hanging eyelets. I can imagine that with your method it's rather difficult to get some pictures of the same size in a line. Thank you for all that good ideas!
Thank you, that's cool! I sometimes come across really nice frames in charity shops here for really good prices and cut a panel to fit the frame too
That was very helpful. Presentation is everything. Thank you!
Thanks you're right! I'm glad it was helpful :)
Immediately after varnishing, cover the painting with a larger panel propped up on books above the painting so that dust or any other floating debris, such as hair in the room doesn’t settle on the painting
Excellent video and great work. I’m painting again after 25 years so I’ve forgotten 95% of everything. I’ve subscribed. 😊Many thanks. Kathy.
Thank you so much. Happy painting! 😊
I absolutely love liquitex high gloss varnish it's amazing. But I don't do oils anymore because I don't have the patience I love acrylics they dry and you varnish and you give away your paintings to your family and friends. I do have some people that pay for my paintings but I'm not sure about that
Very nice George! No doubt those touches are appreciated by the client. I am just getting started with one sale and I know what to do now, Thanks brother!
Normally, if you want a hair and dust free varnish , you let it dry under an elevated glass panel ..
I thought he was going to suggest the cat would see the note and know it was wet varnish haha
Thank you!
You're welcome :)
A nice personal touch, careful and very thorough. BTW that painting looks like a photograph, outstanding work! Subs here for sure.
Thank you :)
So much good advice. Thank you George! Not forgetting to mention your beautiful artwork. 😊
Thank you! 😊
I usually put a note in the back where I say that they can do any copy as they want. Just maintain the correct attribution.
This was so useful!! Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you 😊
Thank! I'm happy it was helpful :)
What a beautiful painting
Thank you :)
£550 for a small bottle of varnish?!!
It was £15.50. £550 would be a bit steep! 😅
The UA-cam subtitle text and transcript got it wrong then (I'm glad to see)!@@GeorgeFrederickThomas
He said £15.50
I was taught that oil paintings should not be covered because they need to breath or continue to dry over time. This is a great video for water colors.
Yes oil paintings don't need to be covered, the frame I use here doesn't have any glass in it so only the edges of the painting are covered. For watercolors I would recommend putting a mount board and then glass in the frame.
What do you use to varnish? I’ve never used it… is it possible to find at Michaels or on Amazon? I heard what you said, but can you type a reply out 🙏🏻 it doesn’t yellow or anything years later either ? Does it help protect against UV and anything else? The label on the back too, only on originals right? Not the prints ?
In this video I used C Robson Exhibition varnish but I've actually started using Gamvar gloss varnish now which is a permanent non yellow varnish which can be applied to touch dry paintings. The varnish will protect the surface of the painting and can be removed and re-applied at a later date to protect the painting. For prints you can still use a certificate of authenticity but you would need to change the description stating that it's a print. I hope this helps
I would personally advise against pouring varnish directly onto the piece. It's better to dip your brush into the varnish from a container and then apply it.
I've tried that but I find I cover the painting better by pouring it straight on to the painting as depending on how quick drying the varnish is it can start drying in the container (perhaps I hadn't put enough varnish in when I tried it) whereas this way there's no time for that to start happening. I imagine that way would still work well though as most varnishes recommended doing it your way I just find this way a bit easier to do
Oh heck no just like pour that crap right on the top of the picture it's so much fun
@@jmdenison Ask an art conservator how they feel about that.
Ever use braided metal wire instead of cord for the hanging loop? Is there an advantage one way or another?
Often if I go to the frames they will use metal wire instead of string. I'm not sure if there's a particular advantage to either. I find string a little easier to attach myself.
so i can create my own certificate of authenticity?
Yes certainly!
I like the suggestion of making the dimension of frame slight larger than the canvas size
I frame very similarly. I tend to use wire instead of cord and I put the certificate into an archival safe cellophane sleeve and then attach it to the back.
I always frame under glass because I sell watercolor originals. Thank you for sharing your source for frames- that will be so helpful!
Thanks for sharing your process, I'm glad you enjoyed the video :)
How do you fasten the certificate on a painting with NO frame ? Do you glue it directly on the back of the canvas itself ?
Without the frame I would stick it straight on to the back of the panel using the double sided sticky tape. I haven't stuck it on the back of a stretched canvas before though
I put my info into a flexible plastic credit card sleeve, and staple it to the frame in the back.
The certificate should *always* be attached tot he back of te painting, not the frame, as it is the painting which is being certified, and if the frame and back are changes ,the certificate will be lost. For this reason, it should be printed on acid-free paper and attached with an acid-free glue so that there is no discolouration over time which could affect the painting itself. The same applies to the backing board and the tape used to fix it in place.
@@GeorgeFrederickThomas See my reply to Edouard. :)
@@DanSwanson2070 See my replu to Edouard about this. 😊
This is very good info that most never think about...also an artist could include info like what type of varnish, if any, was used in case someone needs to know that in the future. Beautiful work!
Thank you! That's a good idea 😀
🎉🎉🎉 brother man 😂 wow congratulations you made new Friends from Europe 😂. Thank you for this beautiful video it's well rendered 😂👍
Thank you 😁
@@GeorgeFrederickThomasThank you Sir😃
Hi George, thanks for posting your very helpful video on varnishing and framing. I use removable varnish, is this similar to exhibition varnish, please? I particularly like your way of varnishing using pads and your information on leaving it flat for varnish bubbles to disapear.as an alternative to hairs landing in the varnish. Regarding the bow you tie at the back, does this work okay for putting the painting 9n wall hook; I usually put the knotted join about 2 inches from the side. Once the initial screw hole is in, I use a T-square to line up the second screw hole. I use Belle Arti poplar panels from Jackson's in London, which ones do you use, please? Have subscribed today. Thanks and Regards Joe
That's an excellent idea. Thanks for sharing. Joe
Hi Joe, I'm glad you found the video helpful and thanks for your comment. I imagine that your removable varnish is similar but most permanent varnishes are also removable with white spirit so it's hard for me to say, which brand are you using? Re-touch varnish also has the same effect as exhibition varnish as it can be applied to a touch dry painting although the one I tried I found it stayed sticky for longer and the finish wasn't as nice as the C Roberson exhibition varnish. The bow will work fine for hanging a painting over a 9n wall hook you can slide the string so that the bow isn't in the center so that it's easier to rest the string on the hook but what you're doing sounds good. I'm using panels that I get cut at a hardware store then I seal them with wood primer on both sides and then apply gesso primer which I mix with grey (or sometimes brown) acrylic paint to give them a mid tone value. I've used Bella art canvas panels before but I found the particular ones I got warped over time. I hope this helps
👍
Is there any advice for acrylic paintings?
I haven't painted with acrylics for a long time but you can present the acrylic paints in the same way shown in the video. However if you choose to varnish the painting you will need to use a varnish specifically made for acrylic paintings. I hope this helps
@@GeorgeFrederickThomas thank you for your advice.
Is varnish necessary? For acrylic painting? Because we don't have good varnish here in store...they are mostly for wood and they yellow over time...
I'm not sure if it's necessary for acrylic paintings. I think it is more important for oil paintings especially if it has a lot of dark tonal values which can lose their impact when the paint dries and look grey. So varnishing brings back out the dark values. Also it acts as a protective film over the painting which can be carefully removed using the right solvent in the future to clean the painting. If you decide to varnish the painting it's important to get the right varnish for the particular painting medium that you're using
@@GeorgeFrederickThomas thanks for the quick reply
A varnish on acrylic paintings is a good idea. But it is highly recommended that you apply in isolation coat between your finished acrylic painting, and the varnish applied on top of it. This allows the varnish to be removed later without risk of damage to your actual painting. Golden Paints has more information on isolation coats on their website.
When I do smaller paintings I am used to add a passepartout out of home-made, tactile paper when there is need to for one. Stay curious!
How do you package the painting? To prevent any wrapping from sticking to the varnish (even though it's dry it can still be tacky with paper or bubble wrap attached to it?) have you got any packaging videos? 👍
I use corrugated cardboard to wrap around the painting and the frame as it's a bit ridged it won't press against the painting surface like bubble wrap might and it protects the corners better. I don't have any videos of that but that could be a good one to make in the future 👍
@@GeorgeFrederickThomas Thanks George, that would be really helpful to see a video on how you package and wrap your painting safely
@GeorgeFrederickThomas Subbed 👍😎
Thanks for the tips! I applied 2 coats of gloss varnish on one of my acrylic paintings with a brush and it ended up looking terrible. I think I’ll try one of these sponges to apply it or a roller, I feel like 2 coats is overkill and makes it unbearably shiny or maybe I just used too much varnish idk
Do you mean gloss varnish as in DIY varnish? If so, it's not not a good idea as it isn't designed for the purpose of sealing a painting. Please use a proper art varnish? Also, acrylic paint doesn't need sealing, as acrylic is a plastic, and seals itself (source is the Smithsonian, which recommends not varnishing acrylic paintings and gives reasons.)
@@MrsBarnabasI tried Liquitex gloss varnish, which is the same line of acrylic paint I use. I agree that you don’t have to varnish an acrylic painting, but then they are more susceptible to UV or dust damage.
@@brandonmagnus4414 Thanks for explaining, Brandon! 😊
@@MrsBarnabasI read the Smithsonian web article and I’m surprised. Their solution is no solution, that is, “don’t varnish, let your painting get dirty, and we don’t know how to clean it”. Instead, I’d proceed with what is recommended by Golden Paints, which is, apply an isolation coat between the finished acrylic painting and the varnish. That way the varnish can be replaced without risk to the painting. An isolation coat is not even discussed by that Smithsonian article, a shame.
“Terrible” is too vague to provide specific advice, but if you ended up with brush strokes, your brush may have been too stiff. Or some acrylic varnishes are actually concentrates (such as Golden’s). If the results is too glossy for you, you can easily add a little of the matte version to your gloss varnish then apply that-just mix it thoroughly.
I’m not a fan of foam brushes myself, I find that they easily introduce bubbles that may not go away.
I like the painting of Rocko. You are quite talented. Can I copy the certificate writing or download it from you?
Anybody using this varnish to coat silver-gelatin photo prints that have been hand colored with Marshall Photo Oils?
Actually forget the screws of the d-rings. Put a very thin 1 inch board across the back and put an eye hook into it and that's a much easier way to hang a painting. All you have to do is make sure the eye bolt is right in the middle. That's what I do much easier easier to hang no kind of BS.
UA-cam is known for creators lying and when you request proof they are unable to provide any proof. ....these people people do research to a extent but not sufficient I wonder what name he uses on his paintings..if he is a real artist we can actually find out if he realky exists...within the network of artists...
And on the back of your pictures don't use straight scissors that are totally accurate. You can get all kinds of wavy scissors crazy scissors whatever go ahead and use those. Show the world you're really an artist You don't conform to anything and your creative
Really? You're painting a dog why are you so serious? And you supposed to be an artist and creative. I want to see that back of that painting glow is something that no one would ever think about
Hello - Quite frankly, all the owner of the dog needed to do was to have a colour enlargement of a photograph made. Best wishes.
Photograph the condition of the frame before it is released from your possession to client or gallery
Forget the certificate I just directly sign the back of the painting with a sharpie and I always come up with the creative name and some details and that makes it so much more fun in artistic. You might even try a poem on the back too that would be fun. I've done that. Have also made some pretty crazy silly comments about the picture too and how long it took me and if the cat walked on it and how many times the cat walked on it
You’re probably fine due to the lack of light exposure, but I’d recommend a pigmented pen/marker versus a dye-based Sharpie. Marks made with Sharpies fade and develop a yellow “halo” over time.
@@andrewlenz that might look cool! thanks. I like the idea of an auto halo around my name. proves Im from the angelic realms with my art
I don’t have the time or patience to wait for a paint to dry when is a commission so clear coat vanish spray it’s and done. Sorry not sorry.. people would not way that long and certainly I won’t wait 6 months to a year to get paid, specially when you need to ship it.🙄
That's why I use exhibition varnish because you only need to wait until it's touch dry so normally just a week or 2. That's cool you find spray varnish works well I haven't tried it before
@@GeorgeFrederickThomasBe careful, a spray varnish applied too early can cloud and/or fissure.
i just got a commission for a pet portrait as well but i figured i shouldn’t have to worry about a frame to accompany it….should i be supplying the frame too?? 😵💫
I would check with your client first if they want you to frame it. I normally offer it as it makes your painting more presentable and is less work for the client but make sure you take the cost of the frame into account when quoting them the price. If they haven't specified then I would give it to them unframed as it will be an extra expenditure for you. You could provide one price for your artwork unframed and an additional price framed
Do you have a pdf of the certificate of authenticity?
Great work George! Will try this next time.
Thank you :)
120 degrees loose? Are you trying to say the line should be slack enough to allow for balance? I mean it sounded smart what you said till you actually read it a second time 😂 then you realise in all your years of building you have referred to “degrees” in context of angles and temperature… never “loose” 😂
Personally I find the photographic look not arty enough.
your dog is so perfect people will think its a photo.
But I get it as the client wants to recognise the dog. Nice.
I get it, I normally prefer to work from life and experiment a bit more in my personal work but with commissions normally I don't deviate much from the reference
Obvs your cats or dogs need to he able to read…😉
That helps 😆😂
Painted on my birthday
Godsend! I always assumed I'd have to wait six months before sending away my paintings!
Enjoyed tthat, quality. informative and well presented.
Thank you I'm happy you enjoyed it :)
I'm glad to have found your channel. Have never had professional art training, but started watching youtube artists during the pandemic. I have always been able to draw, have used acrylic fairly successfully (according to non-artist friends ;) but I don't like the finished look of acrylics. Recently retired and bought a starter set of water soluble oils to try. Will be watching your tutorials and thank you!
I'm glad this was helpful, hopefully my other tutorials will be useful for you too. Thanks for your comment! :)
I'm curious if the acidity of the double sided tape will eventually seep through the cardboard backing and affect the longevity of the painting in any way.
The backing is wood and the painting is primed on the back too so I doubt it would have any effect
Video look a little blurry
Thank you! This was very helpful.
❤ SayessDesign
Thanks! I'm happy it was helpful :)
so, do you tell your buyer they should put a more permanent varnish on the painting in six months, or just let it fly with just retouch varnish?
It depends on the painting. For paintings which are quite bright high-key like this one I just give it to the client with the exhibition varnish on. If the painting has a lot of darks I normally tell the client that I can add another layer of permanent varnish later on as with dark paintings the varnish is much more important as without it that darks can sink in and loose their impact
Thanks so much.@@GeorgeFrederickThomas
You are wrong about the foam brushes as I have had little black specks come off into my varnish. Make sure your foam brushes aren't just unused but new. Old ones can start to disintegrate.
I haven't had that problem with the foam brushes I use. However when I use them I use a new brush to varnish and then dispose of it after varnishing
Why'd I read the thumbnail as
"STOLE A PAINTING? "
This is really helpful, thanks. That’s a very cute pairing of the little dog too! What do you think about siding spray varnishes?
Thanks I'm happy it was helpful! I haven't used spray vanishes before but I know some artists who like to use them
For instance he doesn't talk about the dog portrait he sold on what type of canvas...brushes he used...paint brand...I've met artist that can describe the canvas the brushes and type paint they used on each painting they used.. that's a real artists....
This is the video of me painting the dog. I'm not sure why you would think that I'm not a real artist ua-cam.com/video/VQqNJUgdWfM/v-deo.htmlsi=knGE35hG3eTrxhfI
Any tips for acrylic? I was so disappointed when my efforts dried and completely changed colour!
You could try a varnish for acrylic paint sometimes it can bring back the paint to colour that it was when it was wet. Also perhaps it could be the brand of paint your using as some are known to change a bit overtime especially if the painting is in sunlight
I can't believe you put the bow in the centre where the string is. Right where the hook would attach and you can't slide it to get it hanging straight. But the info was great.Thabks.
@@glendamclachlan2537 you're right it's best not to tie the knot in the middle. I've actually changed the way I tie the string. This is a video of how it tie it now: ua-cam.com/users/shorts8UjN9sRg4TM?si=1kzX6UYnbTW6QUcA
Wonder if these are actually his or someone elses...and that person paints and get credit for his work...
All the artworks on my channel are my own. There are literally videos of me painting the paintings
Nice video with some good advice...In the U.S., we frequently use a SPRAY 'retouch' varnish, which enables us to varnish the painting very soon after it is completed (if for example if you have to deliver a commission, or you want to exhibit the painting immediately). If you are using a drying medium like Liquin, it can literally be spray-varnished 24 hours after you were actually working on it. If you brushed on a varnish (even a lighter retouch or 'exhibition' varnish) that soon, if could easily smear or 'pull up' wet areas of paint (especially cadmiums which take longer to dry). The cord seems quite odd and awkward to me...I use metal picture hanging wire and make it fairly tight (but of course it is adjustable). Some people like the wire that is coated with plastic. Also I think the label should be affixed directly to the back of the panel itself. I paint on canvas and always sign, title and date the painting (and also use the 'copyright sign', that little 'c' in a circle) directly on the back of the canvas in permanent marker (of course also the painting is signed in oil paint on the front). And if it is 'papered' there can also be a label affixed, as you have done. The point being that the label you use could potentially become separated from the painting, if it was reframed in the future. It seems that the label could be very safely glued to the back of a panel.
If you keep a catalogue of your paintings, use a money note with its serial number. Bond half of it to the back, and keep the other half in your catalogue, with a photo of the original work, and its certificate of authenticity. It should be a foreign note of good quality. Zimbabwean notes are like toilet paper, but modern polymer-paper notes are very hard to replicate. Some dollar, lira, dinah, shilling, rupee, notes cost only 20 cents. Get a hundred of them for great PROVIDENCE.
Very good bar one detail... when hanging the knot must be to one side. It can really get in the way if it's in the middle and make it impossible to hang straight. Keep up the good work 😊
Thanks! you're right, I've actually changed the way I do the string on the back so that the knot is on one side and it looks a bit nicer too. I've made a part 2 to this video with a few improvements: ua-cam.com/video/K7LKAaVkUbk/v-deo.htmlsi=7W6ko-BzsSZPskiy
zzz zzzzz
Can watercolour paintings be varnished and mounted in a similar way?
With watercolours I don't varnish them. When framing them I put them behind glass and I put a mount in to separate the painting from touching the glass
Nice video. Painting is great. I usually order my frames from Jackson's Art Supplies, my main art shop. Is that exhibition varnish is any better than damar retouch varnish? I usually use Zest-it damar as smells less than others. Thank you for sharing!
So if you want to do a final varnish in the next six months, you can't cause it's already tightly framed.
You can apply varnish if you carefully tape around the edges of the frame, alternatively you could take the painting out of the frame to varnish it and then put it back in the frame after. It doesn't take that long to do, I've done it before
Good info in your video as well as in the comments. Thank you George. New Sub
Do you not want to miter the tape? I love your voice! It's so relaxing. Great video, very informative. Thank you for sharing!
Many thanks George.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching :)
Did you know there's a whole bunch of satisfying video on the internet or they show varnish being applied to paintings? It's really funny
I'm a painter. I wish I could do realistic paintings from photographs. Your paintings are so sweet and not contrived.
this is for the clients who are wealthier than you but still peasants, the local yokel who wants to support the local scene but a real artist doesn't need to ensure you know all the details with a designer label to sell the brand name, the art should speak for itself
The certificate of authenticity isn't a selling point for the client, it's just an extra touch of professionalism.
I used to pull cuticles back too far and get "clouds" on the fingernail. You have them too.
Here's a really funny story I like to do healing art with the stars and zodiac in the background for my clients. So one time I put the stars on the background and a varnished it too soon but it was really cool because of varnish Streakedthe stars and so I just went with that and created a really cool effect. When I was done those stars were definitely in movement