I have been using Tru-Color for at least 15 years to paint N-Scale locomotives and rolling stock. I found thinning it with Tru-Colors thinner works best. I have tried other brands of paint and this is my favorite. I consistently get great results. If you use it you need a good spray booth and a respirator.
I went very cheapo , kinda ... Got to the automotive paint store.. asked for 150 grams ( min amount sold) of Sherwin Williams primaries poliester paint as well as some black , some white and then bought 30 , 15ml dropper , some reducer and mixed my own paint. I will never be able though to replicate the same tones . I just can't stand acrylics , but i recognize they have their place
You answered a question I had right away when I saw you using the Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. I just bought a couple bottles of Tru Color paint for an HO Scale Southern Pacific locomotive project.
I'm here because I followed Tru-Color's recommendations and couldn't get any paint out of the airbrush. I am going to pick up some thinner and try your recommendations. Thanks for the video!
Let me tell you I don't know where they got their instructions from but there was no way I could spray their paints using their guides. It requires plenty of thinning.
Thinner came this week. Got out the airbrush this weekend, thinned the Tru-Color 50:50, shot it at 22 psi and it came out just like I was hoping it would. Back in business! Thanks again for the video.@@barbatosrex9473
I’ve used TruColor Paints for years, and for best results as with you, I thin to the consistent of skin milk as well. However I always had the most consistently best results by using TCP’s thinner to thin, but cheap lacquer thinner to clean my airbrush. OTOH, I do not recommend brush painting with standard TCP. They do make a few colors for hand-brushing. “Dried-out” years-old goopy bottles of TruColor Paint can be restored simply by adding back in their thinner and shaking before use.
I plan to use this paint very soon. So you're suggesting thinning 50/50 or more w/20 PSI? Tru Color suggests no thinning and 28 PSI. What issues did you have using their procedure? Just curious what drove you to go 50/50. Thanks!
They're off by a mile. It's way too thick in the jar. I did it their way and it didn't work at all. I would even say you can thin them even more than I show here
Thank you so much for this. I shoot TruColor in the RR line and lately have been having some issues with shooting it and this video helped out a lot and now it does down like glass.
Great video. Thanks for posting this. I just ordered a bottle of the leveling thinner you are using. Several other people have recommended using it with this paint. I had just about given up trying to spray Tru-Color on my model railroad equipment. Lots of orange peel. It definitely does not spray well straight out of the bottle using any of my Iwata HP-C series guns. I'm going to buy some spoons and practice. This stuff definitely doesn't spray like ScaleCoat or Floquil, it has a very short flash time and it's hard to get it to flow out on the surface. Even though they recommend shooting it straight I seem to be cutting it about 50/50 with their ultra expensive thinner to get good spray characteristics. You seem to be using a lot of very light coats. I've been trying to get it on wet, but your technique seems to be working a lot better. Thanks again - DTJ
Best results CONSISTENTLY are to thin ONLY with TCP’s thinner mixed in. Go for the consistency of skim milk. I spray at 20-23 PSI on my airbrush. Adjust as needed. It should go on wet, but not runny. It should always dry to a gloss. No need to flash dry.. it dries to the touch within minutes and is ready to decal!!
I followed your advice and thinned the paint to about 50/50 @ about 22 PSI and it came out gorgeous. I also read that this paint likes to start out with a fairly wet first coat vs a light mist coat. I'm glad I found your channel.
Need a recommendation, I'm using Tru Colors RR paints for the first time, My cheap siphon brush isn't getting it. I moved to Arizona and the paint dries in the air no matter how I cut it. I need it to spray very wet just like you see in the automotive industry since I'm covering models 16" or longer. I was an auto painter Retired so I know the desired spray I'm looking for. What about a fan type gravity brush with a .5 needle will that get the medium to heavy spray I need, All the videos I watch yours and others the spray is way too light to Arizona. Any Ideas for brushes and shooting tips Thanks great videos ! I have a channel for music and I know how hard it is even to make the simplest video...
I would go with a Badger Patriot 105 with a 0.7mm needle/nozzle. For the record the 0.7mm needle is the silver one. They come black, blue and silver indicating the size they are. Get your Patriot airbrush here, there on sale for $70 spraygunner.com?aff=10
@@barbatosrex9473 Excellent. I love my splash paints. They lay down great. The other main paint I use is MCW finishes. He makes military and mostly car paints. He can mix ANY paint with the chip books he has. Plus he color matches all my nascar paints. Very good product.
These Tru Color paints are pretty nice. I recently got a whole set of them, 40 colors. I will probably do a updated video with the new colors. Their railroad line up is great too. Check out their website
I have been using Tru-Color for at least 15 years to paint N-Scale locomotives and rolling stock. I found thinning it with Tru-Colors thinner works best. I have tried other brands of paint and this is my favorite. I consistently get great results. If you use it you need a good spray booth and a respirator.
I went very cheapo , kinda ... Got to the automotive paint store.. asked for 150 grams ( min amount sold) of Sherwin Williams primaries poliester paint as well as some black , some white and then bought 30 , 15ml dropper , some reducer and mixed my own paint. I will never be able though to replicate the same tones .
I just can't stand acrylics , but i recognize they have their place
What kind of ventilation / spray booth do you need to spray these?
You answered a question I had right away when I saw you using the Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. I just bought a couple bottles of Tru Color paint for an HO Scale Southern Pacific locomotive project.
I'm here because I followed Tru-Color's recommendations and couldn't get any paint out of the airbrush. I am going to pick up some thinner and try your recommendations. Thanks for the video!
Let me tell you I don't know where they got their instructions from but there was no way I could spray their paints using their guides. It requires plenty of thinning.
Thinner came this week. Got out the airbrush this weekend, thinned the Tru-Color 50:50, shot it at 22 psi and it came out just like I was hoping it would. Back in business! Thanks again for the video.@@barbatosrex9473
Glad I searched this today. Had nothing but issues with the their paint today. Might even strip both models again.
I mix my paint in a small glass bottle with 2 bb's added as agitators. I get the same shade and consistency every time.
I’ve used TruColor Paints for years, and for best results as with you, I thin to the consistent of skin milk as well. However I always had the most consistently best results by using TCP’s thinner to thin, but cheap lacquer thinner to clean my airbrush. OTOH, I do not recommend brush painting with standard TCP. They do make a few colors for hand-brushing.
“Dried-out” years-old goopy bottles of TruColor Paint can be restored simply by adding back in their thinner and shaking before use.
Thanks for the info. I have to grab their thinner for sure. I have almost 40 jars of the auto paint. I have a huge collection of Splash Paints too
Can tamiya’s lacquer thinner be used to thin and airbrush
I plan to use this paint very soon. So you're suggesting thinning 50/50 or more w/20 PSI? Tru Color suggests no thinning and 28 PSI. What issues did you have using their procedure? Just curious what drove you to go 50/50. Thanks!
They're off by a mile. It's way too thick in the jar. I did it their way and it didn't work at all. I would even say you can thin them even more than I show here
lol those are old prices, a 1 ounce runs you 8$ now and 16 ounces is 99$
Thank you so much for this. I shoot TruColor in the RR line and lately have been having some issues with shooting it and this video helped out a lot and now it does down like glass.
Great video. Thanks for posting this. I just ordered a bottle of the leveling thinner you are using. Several other people have recommended using it with this paint.
I had just about given up trying to spray Tru-Color on my model railroad equipment. Lots of orange peel. It definitely does not spray well straight out of the bottle using any of my Iwata HP-C series guns. I'm going to buy some spoons and practice. This stuff definitely doesn't spray like ScaleCoat or Floquil, it has a very short flash time and it's hard to get it to flow out on the surface. Even though they recommend shooting it straight I seem to be cutting it about 50/50 with their ultra expensive thinner to get good spray characteristics. You seem to be using a lot of very light coats. I've been trying to get it on wet, but your technique seems to be working a lot better.
Thanks again - DTJ
that IS a great gundam red, you could probably do a justice with just different primer colors.
great looking colors.
had a horrible time with that Vallejo clear using it on a humid Florida vacation.
Where do you get your mixing cups from
Thank you... I was about to abort my RR paints because my airbrush keeps clogging. Will thin even more.
Thinning is the secret here. You really need to thin it out 40/60 at least. Paint to thinner.
Best results CONSISTENTLY are to thin ONLY with TCP’s thinner mixed in. Go for the consistency of skim milk. I spray at 20-23 PSI on my airbrush. Adjust as needed. It should go on wet, but not runny. It should always dry to a gloss. No need to flash dry.. it dries to the touch within minutes and is ready to decal!!
Thanks!
I followed your advice and thinned the paint to about 50/50 @ about 22 PSI and it came out gorgeous. I also read that this paint likes to start out with a fairly wet first coat vs a light mist coat. I'm glad I found your channel.
Glad I could help my friend
Need a recommendation, I'm using Tru Colors RR paints for the first time, My cheap siphon brush isn't getting it. I moved to Arizona and the paint dries in the air no matter how I cut it. I need it to spray very wet just like you see in the automotive industry since I'm covering models 16" or longer. I was an auto painter Retired so I know the desired spray I'm looking for. What about a fan type gravity brush with a .5 needle will that get the medium to heavy spray I need, All the videos I watch yours and others the spray is way too light to Arizona. Any Ideas for brushes and shooting tips Thanks great videos ! I have a channel for music and I know how hard it is even to make the simplest video...
I would go with a Badger Patriot 105 with a 0.7mm needle/nozzle. For the record the 0.7mm needle is the silver one. They come black, blue and silver indicating the size they are. Get your Patriot airbrush here, there on sale for $70
spraygunner.com?aff=10
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks I'm going to give this a try.
Great looking paints. I just ordered some of these to try out. Keep up the good work.👍👍
Since this video I got in 40 different colors of these paints. Good stuff. I just order a bunch of Splash Auto colors too
@@barbatosrex9473 Excellent. I love my splash paints. They lay down great. The other main paint I use is MCW finishes. He makes military and mostly car paints. He can mix ANY paint with the chip books he has. Plus he color matches all my nascar paints. Very good product.
Looks great! I'm a model railroader, I guess Trucolor is the way to go!!!
These Tru Color paints are pretty nice. I recently got a whole set of them, 40 colors. I will probably do a updated video with the new colors. Their railroad line up is great too. Check out their website
@@barbatosrex9473 will do thanks!