2014-2017 Subaru Crosstrek rear wheel bearing replacement
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2019
- How to unconventionally remove and replace a rusted in wheel hub bearing on a Subaru XV Crosstrek. These things are notoriously noisy, and are a bear to get off. Have a ball if you need to do this job. 2015 2016 14 15 16 17
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Rust Belt Auto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this video at your own risk. Rust Belt Auto recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. - Авто та транспорт
This is by far the most realistic mechanics view of a video I’ve ever seen! Loved it
Amazing video! I knew early on in the video I wouldn't be able to do this job myself with my lack of skills, equipment, and pony tail, but had to watch the whole thing for the entertainment value.
😂lol $1550 was the quote I received from Subaru. I had already been in there 2x before and they inspected it supposedly. It wasn't until the 3rd time I'm pointing this noise out. They are not the only one who didn't see it in inspection. I'm feeling that these and any part that may cause death or wrecks needs to be automatic check. Goodyear failed, mechanic I had finish my rear brakes even failed... I'm very unhappy with inspectors
This dude is so real. I knew all I needed to know 5 minutes in but had to stay around for moral support. Nice work buddy.
Man...being a 25+ year professional mechanic this was about the most real video I think I've watched lol
You guessed it, changing one now in the heart of the Maritimes in Canada...son bitch won't free up YET
I’m stuck with half the bearing out and watching your video is making me laugh enough to keep going and not lose my cookies on day 2! 😂 Great video!!!
Most fun I've had figuring out that I am better off paying a professional. No DIY here. Excellent vid!
Northeast salt sucks, I am about to do the wife's 14 Crosstrek again, the first time I replaced it at 70K miles I had to take the knuckle off both rear and one hub came off and the other i had to buy a used knuckle. it was a 4 days job and I am about to redo it again at 132K miles, I hope the anti-seize I put on last time will have some mercy on this old man.
this is the most accurate and informative how to video I've ever seen. now I know I need to have shop air and bring my air hammer. thanks for posting
You sir are a legend for knowing and saying what bolt size removes the rotor! Thank you so much! Happy New Years!
"One is never enough, two is never enough..." Holy shit thank you for saying that! This is what got this job done for me, I have failed at it before but because of your video I worked around it with a bunch of things instead of just one at a time and got it!!
Many videos about how to beat the thing off, which didn't work for my 14 Crosstrek. As a last resort I tried to wedge it off from the back, as you show. I couldn't budge the thing and didn't want to get too aggressive with it. Wish I would have found this sooner, I would have kept at it. Thanks for taking the time to do this, much appreciated.
Those things are ridiculous in the rust belt.
@@barbadosslimful I ended up at a dead end. I beat the heck out of the bearing for days and it never budged at all. Ended up putting my wheel on the badly bent bearing face and paying $150 for a tow to my local mechanic. He ended up using heat to break the rust seal and replaced both rear bearings for me.
On my 2014 Impreza I used a 1/4 NPT tap on holes after removing the bolt. Be sure to thread the tap almost all the way in for strong threads The hole is the right size for tapping.
Then install four 1/4 NPT plugs. Finally I used bolts from the front to jack the hub out. I had some 3/8x3/4 pins to put in the holes so I could use the mounting bolts. Take your time and turn each bolt a little at a time. And I used a slide hammer to remove the flanges first. But with the right length bolts you can leave the flanges in. Before you get the bearing housing completely out use a 3/8 punch to loosen the backing plates some.
Interesting recipe.
My 2016 Subaru Crosstrek is currently in the shop with a toasted rear wheel bearing (only 62k KM/38k miles). The shop quoted $781 ($CAD) to fix. The technician bent the backing plate trying to remove the seized bearing unit and now also has to be replaced. So thank you for this video in helping me understand why the labour charge is so high for this service. Also, I laughed out loud several times 😛🤣
$781 for one?? 👀
😁 1500 for mine. Now that better be both. Ima replace brakes and rotes myself. Not sure if I wanna take a change on the bearing
Excellent... Will be doing front and back on my 2014 outback. Picked up a hub shocker to see if it helps. Thanks again for the video:)
How did it go?
Wedging air chisels behind the backing plate worked for me. I had to add heat to the thinnest part of the knuckle, at the front and rear to get it to break free.
I sprayed mine w nut buster for a few days ahead of even trying. Then loosened 4 hub bolts and took a nice drive on the bumpiest roads around. Then beat it off w a 5 lb hammer. It eventually came off. I replaced what was left of the backing plate.
Thanks for a real video... about what the mechanics at shop said it was like doing. Have to replace abs sensor from all the banging around.
I’ve never been able to get one of these out without removing the whole knuckle. I then remove the spindle from the center of the bearings, then I remove the bearings to expose the bearing races. I then make a relief cut with the torches and air hammer the bearing housing out. These definitely suck to replace. Thanks for the video. My plan is to show it to the customers before I replace another one.
My plan is to deal with victims, instead of having customers. It makes more sense to me. Customers are a PITA. The service industry is not genuine.
Great video. Nice work on getting that thing to break loose.
First a shout out/high five to you, Rust Belt Auto. I've done quite a few Subaru wheel hubs and they're all different levels of unpleasantness. How you got it apart is exactly what I've done in the past & will continue to do. The only thing I'd recommend would be to slather on some never-seize during reassembly for the next guy (it could be me :). Yesterday I did a set of rear hubs on a 2015 Outback. The e-brake is incorporated into the disc brakes, so I didn’t have to deal with the e-brake shoes like on yours. Still an absolute bear to remove. I even have the LTI Hub Shocker that Drewg351 mentions. I swung an 8 pound sledge against that tool so many times until I couldn’t swing anymore, to no avail. I also have a CP717 Air Hammer that kicks butt. Finally, after lots of air hammering with it and destroying the dust cover plate I got the hub out. This was on the passenger rear. The driver side rear came off with about 6-7 large hits on the Hub Shocker. Also, the needed nuts to mount the Hub Shocker are 12 x 1.25mm and they don’t come with the kit as Drewg351 stated. I didn’t have any spare lug-nuts and I had to search high & low to find that thread size in my hardware stock. It was the first time I've used the Hub Shocker and it is a nice tool. I bought a 15lb. sledge for the next hub. We'll see…….
Keep up the good (and honest) videos. I'm a fan.
That was an amazing story. You are the zing in amazing. Thanks for watching!
CP Zip Gun is key
Working on one today. I used a hub breaker thing which bolts onto the hub and you beat the crap out of it with a sledge hammer and it still didn’t come off. I had to take the knuckle assembly off and bring it somewhere to press out. I think you got lucky.
Awesome.....cant wait to dive into this job....
thank you for posting this and showing all the horror - learned a lot thank you again
I've been wrestling with my wife's 2016 forester. What a pain in the ass. I see some of these guys pop 'em off because they are in Arizona or down south, easy, but here in the Northeast, rust sucks.
Just did my 2102 forester rear. Spray w nut buster a few times a few days before. Loosened 4 hub bolts and drove around bumpy road. Helped loosen it .
well edited video. thanks. I got 2 of these to do.
Great video I did it in about 25 minutes. Well 25 minutes of total work haha there were a few drinks involved and of course my dogs are wondering why I'm not giving them.all the attention
This was great to watch! thx for the laughs and good info!
Great Video!!! Yeah, as a Subaru mechanic for rear Subaru bearing replace I don’t even fight it anymore . I just unbolt the knuckle and either press out the bearing and replace the stone shield or just replace the stone shield and the knuckle . (The actual issue is the Stone Shield as there is a TSB on the Stone Shield actually causing the bearing Failure). It’s faster with no aggravation to remove the knuckle. That rust bond does not give up easy on that rear bearing with that long bearing sleeve. Southern climates I’m seeing where it just pops out. But not in the Rust Belt Climate.
TSB 05-70-19R SUBARU BACKING PLATE DESIGN CHANGE
The last one I did, unscrewed the hub bolts about 4 turns, and hammered on them with my new Thor air hammer. That thing is amazing.
Great as always, father's forester dumped a rear bearing 4k after warranty
Hopefully it will not be as rusted stuck as this Crosshair.
Great video. I have 3 family members with Subarus and have done 8 wheel bearings I believe in 2-3 years.
My friend work at Subaru Center, when i asked him about the weak wheel bearing assembly, he told me that if the wheel bolts were torqued not according to the manufacturer's guide( too tight ), it can affect the wear and tear of the hub assembly. I got a flat tyre on my rear right and fix it without any torque wrench and a few months later the same side made growling bearing sound.
They are week. Anything other than "normal" driving will damage them. I mean don't hit a pothole on accident or even kiss a curb when parallel parking .
@@uberdang830 I've tried Moog and Timken bearings with proper torque spec. Same result.
Not always, but no guarantee.
ah sheet, have a 2015 making a building hum in the rear. havent jacked it up but presume its this. curious why you didnt go for heat? im fond of propane torched and local heating to expand, upside down electronics cleaner to cool. i pray the two im about to do arent this difficult but thats not how the world works ;D i saw you recomment the ATD8629 hub tool, very interesting, essentially just a lever for the whole assembly. thank you for taking the time to share :D
Wow. That was a whole lot more entertaining for the viewers than it was for you. I'm getting ready to NOT do the right rear on my wife's 2013 Crosstrek. I don't have your air tools (certainly not quality ones, or a large enough compressor to push them), that many chisels to get stuck, etc., and wifey doesn't understand the colorful language when I'm asked to do stuff out of my league or that I don't have tools for. Thanks for inadvertently talking me out of trying. ...hey, I do have a maybe related or not related question (the bearing might not be the issue). There isn't noise coming from the famously bad bearing either side, but right rear eats tires faster than anywhere else. Being independent rear suspension, could it be maybe a control arm bushing or something else that would have the tire out of line, thus dragging a wee bit? I rotate tires when the car is around, but it's been her son's vacation trip vehicle for almost a year, and he had the same corner blow out a tire. All new tires early spring 2021, and right rear is worn again when we got it back recently. I haven't been under it because I don't have an indoor space to work on it, and there's already snow on the ground here in the Rockies. I discovered the tire wear when swapping out for snow tires the other day. Thanks in advance for any insight you might have. (She doesn't want a Tacoma, so that advice won't help).
...good luck getting a Subaru tech showing his face with these things.
Great video great tech.....I wouldn't put u on costumer desk lol God bless
You really made that look like fun!
Nice video style. Subbed.
I used a puller with my impact and it got it out no problem, and .ine was rusted aswell. I started off with about 2hrs of just hitting it with a hammer and found that wasn't gonna work then I found some of my botherss puller tools and it came out like it was nothing (they look like a claw) to give you an idea of what im talking about
I have one. Congrats!
Thanks for the video.
Omg you dat right Piece of ziitttttt design u dont see any subi mechanics doin dis forget about it ….nice job guy✌️👊🔥🔥🔥🔥
Gotta love rust free places. Bearing is glued tight here
I have this exact car and it was on another mechanic’s video that I confirmed the SOUND of a bad wheel bearing. A brief explanation, or maybe a video of you driving it with the horrible sound would have been helpful. Other than that, informative and hilarious!
I'd like to know what is sounds like and looks like as well. The mech said he could hear mine but I'm over here scratching my head like how? My muffler touches my hitch thanks to my liftkit install. How can you hear bearings over the vibrations of my muffler?
Years of experience.
I tryed to do one today using your method and had no luck..
Best thing to do is tap two of the holes in back with a 14mm 1.5 tap and screw in the bolts from the back side add 3 10mm bearings to the front and use the original mounting bolts to force that puppy right out. Works every time!
I think you are on to something, but don't quite follow.
@@RustBeltAuto essentially you’re using the existing holes that the hub/bearing is secured to knuckle with as place push that thing out from. I just use 2 of the mounting holes diagonally from each other and tap knuckle from the back side and put it in 2 14mm by 1.5 bolts just into the knuckle and then from the front i put in 2-3 ball bearings into each hole and then use then original mounting bolts put screwed in from the front and impact them each a little at time and it walks right out. Then I’m not damaging the brake rotor shield by having to use an air chisel. Hard for me to explain
@@jjm2948 i think i get it. Thanks!
I had same problem getting my 2014 Subaru Crosstrek rear wheel bearings out. I tried beating the snot out of the hub with 3 lb, 5lb, and finally a 10 lb sledgehammer to no avail. I rented 3 jaw pullers and tried the slide hammer. Slide hammer started to separate the bearing which I didn't want to do. Some guys go that route, but you're still stuck with the rusted hub stick in the knuckle so I don't recommend using a slide hammer. I also don't like "bending stuff that shouldn't be bent" as you state in this video by using pickle forks and hammering wedges. Not a good idea, especially when it's completely unnecessary. Finally, I broke down and purchased the $100.00 Hub Shocker / Breaker Bar tool and it took 2 minutes to remove the hub without having to touch any of the parking brake stuff. If you do these, spend the money. It's the only tool that's pretty much guaranteed to work. Simply bolt it on two wheel studs, and take a 10 lb sledgehammer and hit it a couple of times. It'll definitely pop out. Using this tool, I can now easily change these crazy stuck Subaru wheel bearings in under 1 hour complete and not mess with the parking brakes. Buy it. You'll be amazed !!!!!
Just for reference, I purchased the LTI Hub Shocker Tool. Unfortunately, the bolts that come in the kit don't fit Subaru's. So you'll need to go buy 2 x 12 MM very fine pitch bolts (or use two wheel studs) and 2 thick, large (preferably grade 8) washers. It's not a big deal. You can get um at any auto parts store or Menards. Best money spent if you do wheel bearings often.
Where do you live? Do you live in the rust belt?
@@RustBeltAuto, just outside of Minneapolis, MN. Trust me. I watched your video 5 times and felt exactly like you did. In fact, I swore I'd be selling this car because of these common wheel bearing problems. But that Hub Breaker tool is AWESOME !!!! Ridiculously priced for what it is: steel plate with a couple of holes and a steel bar welded to it. But it makes doing these stupid wheel bearings so easy. You have a shop and do these often, make one or buy one. You'll make the money back on the first job you do.
@@Drewg351 I just wanted to make sure you lived in a really rusty area. Never tried one of those before, and people comment on my channel all the time from unsalted places like It's all the same or something. Maybe I will blow some dough on one of those. I'm sure it would come off a lot easier if you lived in Texas or something. Subaru doesn't sell them. Wonder what dealers do? Swear a lot?
@@RustBeltAuto, yea bud. Lots of salty roads up here. If you have the capacity to "weld", I saw a clever UA-cam video where a guy took an old, used, Subaru rotor, welded a 2 foot square bar, and uses that. Ingenious idea. Granted, it would only work on Subaru's whereas this hub breaker works on all 4, 5, 6, 8 lug hubs so you can use it on other vehicles to remove hubs.
I was laughing at how aggravated you got as that was me too (LOL).
@@RustBeltAuto, you can buy these on Amazon and a lot of other stores. I purchased mine from Tool Discounter because the price was cheaper than Amazon and I got it the following day. They're located right next door to me in St Paul, MN. Here's the link:
www.tooldiscounter.com/product/lock-technologies-universal-hub-shocker-ltilt830a
Yep. I’ve done this a couple times in my driveway. Now that the entire mating surface is painted in neverseize I’ll never have to do it again.
I was thinking about doing this job on my 2017, but having watched this I'm starting to think paying someone might be the right call.
Or maybe I'll start hosing down the entire area with penetrating oil every day for the next few weeks.
@@CueBeanKa if you don't live in the rust belt, it might not be this bad. People that don't post comments, because it is easy for them.
There are ways to get them out faster but requires more brute force. So you may need to have a new nuckel and joint on hand. Depending on how the vehicle is stored. I tell customers I can save you money in labor if you just replace the nuckel and backing plate with the bearing. They have been so bad at time where you just destroy everything trying to get them apart. This video is no joke and this is one that cooperated.
If you ever go to a dealership the first thing you hear when you say i need a new wheel bearing is a huge sigh from the service writer because they know they are about to lose their shirt.
My thoughts exactly.
I have a subaru crosstrek. I got a wheel bearing replaced a few years about and guess what? Got to replace it again. I don't know much about cars but I no longer want a subaru. What car would yall recommend? I want one that has more space than a crosstrek and has good gas mileage.
Remove the carrier and hit it from the back side. Though i dont even bother i just replace the carrier, hub assembly and backing plate. Save my self the time and then it all gose back together painted and anti-seized.
Doing this next week. If its much trouble I'll just take the entire thing off and put it in the press.
Amusing video, but I'm going to say takin off the e-brake shoes might be better idea, in the scope of things how much longer would it have taken
I don't know.
Try using a good penetrating oil like Kroil, before you start hammering and chiseling next time. Saves a lot of time and aggravation!
This thing was rusted in so bad, I don't believe a little spray juice would do anything, unless maybe you hosed it down a few times a day for a half week. Maybe. That stuff never did anything for me when a reciever hitch is rusted in either. You could soak one of those for half a lifetime, and still won't come out. I like the idea of using that ATD 8629 hub tool a previous commenter made. Maybe I get one.
All the Subaru bearings are rusted so bad that nothing will go through lol
“I’m gonna torque it to a bunch!” OMGAWD 😂😂😂
I have done many of these, every one is rusted on. I always add 1.5 hours to the labor on every one i do.
I cried uncle and bought new knuckle and backing plate. And I had the thing you bang with a giant maul. A little anti seize would have saved me a few years
So... thinking of doing this one because i'm getting a bit of uncomfortable noise back there. Maybe I'll be hitting that with some creep for the next few.. months.
I just did 2 more, and used a Thor air hammer on the loose bolts. These can get really tight.
This guy is great 😂
What did I do?
Go buy some PB Blaster, and a couple longer M12 bolts, preferably allen socket head bolts, and an old allen wrench. Cut the 90° off the allen, put the bolts in the hub, and use the allen inside the bolt and with a decent sized mallet, tap it out. Pretty simple really.
Work smarter, not harder.....
You can use standard bolts and use the air hammer to push them out as well...
Would this be the same procedure for Subaru Impreza g4 2017 2WD? Excellent video by the way 💯
I thought Subaru's were AWD?
@@RustBeltAuto not all of them. I have a Japanese model. 2017 impreza g4 limited edition.
@@britonmarrett796 fun... I would guess it's about the same. You won't have an axle to deal with, and it may not be as rusted in.
@@RustBeltAuto it's a FWD. Are axles only on AWDs? 🤔 I appreciate the information tho man
@@britonmarrett796 There are only axles on the drive wheels. If you have FWD, there will be no rear axles.
Looks good to me boss it passes my inspection 😂
Use the hub shocker they sell in Amzon it’s a great tool. Hit it with a sledge hammer 5 times and it’s out.
Do it help to pray the night before i go to doo this job? Or just go to the shop and pay for a MAGNUM AIR HAMMER. Thank you for the video, showing it not just that easy every time.
God is just an observer. It doesn't fix cars.
Torquing to correct specifications is necessary to keep it from breaking again. As well as safety precautions. There's nothing wrong with Subaru.
When you have something rusted in, beat the piss out of whatever it is stuck in with a big ol' hammer. I've also made bearing pullers specifically for Subaru wheel bearings.
Enjoyed the realness I. This video. I’m about to tackle my wife’s. Maybe take to dealer. But probably not. I like torture. 😂
Mine was really bad too, i had to swing out the knuckle and beat it out from the inside
I used an otc hub puller and it always pulls the center of the wheel bearing out, then i take off e brake and hammer the casing off
I use a bigger air hammer now.
"right now alls I'm doing is bending a lot of things I probably shouldn't be bending..." xD
The exact words I used lol! And I didn't have an air hammer.
Thanks for doing this video. I would not want to have started this and get stuck then have to tow it to a garage. Note to self: unable to do without about $5K worth of pneumatic tools. I see why they want $650 for this.
Yo!
Damn, another piece... It needed a wheel bearing that soon?
This may have been your biggest fight in a while...
How do you like the HF swivel sockets?
...Damn crosshair.
They are really thick. I don't use them much at all. Havn't broke one yet.
@@RustBeltAuto I have a swivel adapter, do you think that is good enough? Or maybe I should look into a better set like you have? FapOn, I mean SnapOn?
@@BarnStangz it depends 😝
@@RustBeltAuto Yeah, maybe I'll just stick with the adapter. I don't work on junk all day long like you. You need that stuff for your living. I have to say, for a few bones, that adapter has got me out of a number of jams...
160nm or 118 ft lbs. is the axle nut torque. And make sure it's done with no load on the wheels. This torque is what seats the bearing properly and if it is not done correctly ( to loose, to tight, or while the axle is bearing weight) the new bearing WILL FAIL very soon.
✌️
It already failed very soon. Thanks!
🔥🔥🔥
Thanks. I will let the dealership deal!!!😂
I'd grease the hell out of the bearing body and knuckle before install so it comes out easier next time. :D
93400 miles on my XV, I think I hear a light growl , How do I rule out tread noise VS bearing growl ?
93K miles is that average life to get this job done ?
Thanks
Run your palm flat around the tire, and put your hand on the coil spring, and spin the tire.
@@RustBeltAuto Bearings it is, Noise did increase a little.
105K miles now Should I go for OEM replacement Bearing/Hubs (1 year Warranty) or aftermarket Duralast (Lifetime warranty)?
@@aarshmathur2909 the factory ones don't seem to last very long. I would assume that all the aftermarket ones are Chinese, and that is what I get, because they are cheap. You decide.
@@RustBeltAuto I still have some time to work out the details but I’m completely lost as of right now. Thanks
Lol great video
Love it,,,,,Brother,,,,Just had one on a outback yesterday,,,,,,,They "SUCK ASS" !!!!!!!
Always fit a new back plate with a bearing hub. 👍
2:26
"I'm bending a lot of things that shouldn't be bending, because Subaru's suck ass"
🤣😂
5:56
"Someone should get fired for building such nonsense.."
I feel your pain brother!
God dammit, I'm dreading doing this. 2013 that still has original equipment on it. All those years salt soaked in Wisconsin. FML.
How many miles Adam ?
@@aarshmathur2909 65K, still a baby
This is how it is done on a Subaru with very little rust.
I just did my 17 crosstrek in like 45 minutes…and I live in New England.
Did you need all those special tools?
@@RustBeltAuto nope. 3 lb sledge and some motivation lol 😂. Pretend you’re getting a pep talk from Mickey from the Rocky movies and swing lol.
Potential knuckle ID damage using that air hammer. Don’t recommend. But thanks for sharing this.
I like the lack of sugar coating. This looks like a real bitch of a job for a guy like me without an air chisel. Looks like I'm going to look into my options for percussive tools because a hammer and punch is going to make me want to die 💀
First one is painful , then copper anti seize.
I messed up my backplate badly using this air chisel hammer method....
Hammer it back.
@@RustBeltAuto can't hammer back what got chiseled off 🤷♂️
@@studiomtn okay. I'm sure Subaru has no shortage of backing plates.
@@RustBeltAutoyes but they are $100 and the down time of waiting without a car until the part comes in.
@@studiomtn wow!.
i change my Subaru 2017 i had to take off the whole spindle
I'm trading mine in the rear wheel baring is smoked and I'm not doing it. Lol,,
next time, try a quality built wheel hub puller. In the future, use the right tool for the right job.
Wrong is right.
NYC NorthEast here.. Same crap.
Couldn’t do anywhere near as well as you. But I’m sure I would have cussed even more had I tried.
Doesn't look like you used any penetrating oil or anything to help it free up? I spray the night before and let it soak in. Just saying ,your doing it dry and that's not the way ! Just saying!
I'm trading mine in the rear wheel baring is smoked and I'm not doing it. Lol
Hey! That wasn't that difficult at all! I didn't even bloody a knuckle or break a sweat watching you. lol
Seriously though, I can't count the number of times I've wished the engineer responsible had to do the repair job as a lesson in engineering.
No one likes to see how the sausage is made. It just needs to taste awesome.
What I did was wedge chisels behind backing plate, pb blaster, off in 10 minutes AFTER 400 (counted) wasted pulls with a 10 lb. Slide hammer and adapter, waste of $120.
Lol.lol. Job wasn't as bad as video but without the air hammer and patients you'll never get it out. Oil is your friend and instead of beating on the bolt in the back I used a port a pump and pushed while hammering with ( is enough).
Nice job , love your attitude, just one thing next time FUCKING USE SOME P B Blast . Nice video thought it helped a lot.
Pb blast stinks. Don't like the smell. Prefer deep creep.
I'mm a Subaru tech and we hate them too. Lol
I fucking hate them as much as you do🤣🤣 changed 3 on my Subaru and waiting for the fourth.
Got it off with a lot of heat and a big hammer doh.
Just did mine, 16 Crosstrek......your working way too hard....harbor freight sells a slide hammer that has a hub adapter, 59.99 here in TN, hooked to hub/bearing assembly and out with 5 slides......both rear bearings, rear diff fluid change and oil change, 2hrs start to finish, no lift, just in garage floor, all that chiseling and air chisel just not needed