I have a Range Rover Evoque, I can hear it, oh poor man. I change my oil and filter every 5000 miles, I run the car on v power premium diesel and once a year I treat it to some Forte diesel additive. I never thrash the car especially from cold. Pay a little more money out now or a lot more if something goes wrong due to poor maintenance. It pays to do a bit of research on your make and model. My car thanks me for it. Great video.
I would concur with this comment. I have a Disco Sport 2.0 litre Ingenium. I am into my seventh year of ownership having bought it from new. If you are to believe the many online reviews they would give you nightmares. Top tips are, don’t believe the two year servicing intervals recommended by LR . No more than 10k or 12 months oil and filter changes. I use premium fuel not cheap supermarket fuel . Use an in the fuel DPF cleaner every few months.
Reliability is surely simplicity! The less the technology put into a car the less there is to go wrong. Unfortunately, gone are the days when failures were usually due to wear and tear, failures today can more often be caused by a faulty sensor or some other computerized electrical component - nothing to do with age or amount of usage!
I think just common sense and treating a vehicle like a machine and not an appliance to maintain a vehicle. People have this mindset today of install/buy and forget. Like people not doing proper oil change intervals, or let alone oil changes in the first place.
Just use your noggin. Get it serviced and inspected. If you have any doubt over any consumables, replace them. Understand different noises and what they mean. If you hear or experiencr something weird, address it rather than waiting for something to fully break.
My first car a Ford Fiesta from 2000, 60 horse Diesel 1.8. Never Broke down. Rust killed it with 99.800 km My second BMW 318ci from 2002, 143 horse had many problems but always made it home or in the next workshop- even only on 3 cylinders- Sold it with 164.000 km The third car Ford Mondeo from 2011 with 163 horse 2 litre Diesel never broke down- i crashed it in winter with 120.000 km My fourth an Hyundai i40 sedan from 2012 with 1.7 Diesel 116 horse never broke down i had it for 6 years and rode from 102.000 km to 260.000 km when the diesel particular filter was fully loadet- Sold it then. My actual car Ford Mondeo from late 2018 2 litre Diesel 200 horse never broke down so far in 2 years
Have had a 2010 Honda Civic for the past 5yrs, got it with 106k miles on the clock, no service history came with it, I’ve put about 55k miles on it since buying it so it’s got about 160k miles on it now, all I’ve ever done to it is oil change (fully synthetic) & filter every 12-14k miles with engine flush, air filter I’ve done twice, cabin filter done once, a new battery, rear brake discs/pads done once about 18months ago, front discs & pads done once a month ago & a drivers side wheel bearing & shock after I hit a massive pothole hard, everything else is original parts including the spark plugs (as far as I know) other than the light bulbs I’ve changed over the years I have always used cheap supermarket fuel, & use RedEx injector cleaner once every 2yrs or so, engine/gearbox runs perfectly except recently the revs at idle dip low, move around on idle after a cold start, throttle body probably needs cleaning & a new set of spark plugs, it’s not so bad since I used injector cleaner 2 weeks ago at twice the recommended concentration, also the wiring harness in the drivers door has broken wires from being opened/closed repeatedly so the electric windows don’t work but other than that it runs sweet, quiet & smooth, the suspension is a little worn but still fine, same with the clutch but it’s never broken down or needed a repair other than the consumables mentioned, handles very well, nippy 1.8L petrol (140bhp), iVTec, half leather interior, well built, sporty looks, can’t really ask for better for the £2100 I paid for it 5yrs ago. Newer cars are too complicated & temperamental & are made cheaply, headache & your paying silly money to replace simple plastic parts that cost pennies to manufacture, oil leaks, expensive timing chain problems, injectors failing far to soon, it’s like they want people to get sick of fixing cars & catch the bus instead.
@ I do them myself, usually about 12k miles but my last one was after 18k miles, had a busy year working loads so didn’t have time, it’s a Honda so can take the abuse, no problem, about 15yrs ago I had a friend who had a 1991 Honda Accord, he knew absolutely nothing about cars, only how to drive them, he owned the car for 4yrs & had never opened the bonnet of the car, no oil changes, nothing, just put petrol in it & drove it, never let him down ever, it had 288k miles at the time.
My old 06 2.2 Civic diesel, ran it from 75k miles to 227k miles in 11 years. IT NEVER EVER BROKE DOWN. I serviced it every 12.5k miles and changed the consumbles it needed. A year later after I sold it, it's had to have an alternator and a radiator. The thing is 18 years old now and still bloody running, used every day by my work colleague. It's also remapped to 190bhp. What did I replace it with? A 2013 2.2 iDTEC. Hopefully I'll get similar reliability out of that one.
So I agree with you on all the points except one: finding a group that has your model. Heres why: for the last 4 cars I've owned, I've joined a Facebook group about that car. And mostly they've been helpful and informative. Then I joined two groups for our new Nissan Rogue, and they are both full of people saying that these cars don't last, they are horrible, etc. But my neighbor has two; a 2009 with 140,000 miles and an 18 with 190,000 miles. To me, it's all about two things which you teach - maintenance and driving types. The dealer told me they have had two with engine failures, both people thought that “turbo” meant speed, but with these, it means minimum horsepower. So, I'd say that we need to be aware that what people say needs to be carefully annualized
Without any intention of advertising, I am very satisfied with Protec fuel additives and cleaners. Have been using a petrol additive that cleans the valves etc of the engine, top job (multipoint injection engine, not direct injection) . Also have been using the "Oxicat" product from the same manufacturer, cleans the entire exhaust system from soot etc - again, top product - a bit on the expensive side this one, but more than worth it. Again, I am not advertising; merely stating my experience with these products.
The most important thing (not covered) is that you should find out if your car has a timing belt and DO NOT MISS THE REPLACEMENT INTERVAL. Save up your money ahead of time if you must, but replace your timing belt on time. If you are going to get an OBD scanner and if you have an issue and are going to take your car to a mechanic DO NOT clear the codes. The mechanic needs these codes to help figure out what is going on with your car. If you clear them out, that information is lost.
I prefer belts over chains. Yeah you have to replace them but at least you know what's what. With a chain you never know what's gonna happen. I would always change a belt as soon as I got a car as a matter of course.
i've got a tdi 1.6 fabia, i do mostly short journeys, to and from work about 10-15 mins drive, to the shops and go for leisure drives, in winter it barely enough to fully warm up. i do however, give it a good run 3 times a week on faster roads to get the engine properly lubricated and warmed up.
In short: you need to do your own research and put some effort. If you are one of those "buy and forget" people - this video is not for you. You will be better off buying a brand new car.
Simple design is what I need. OEMs can keep all this turbo stuff. Give me natural aspiration and a couple more cylinders. I agree with the OBD2 dongle/apps. Learn what fuel trim means and it will give you insight into what’s happening with your vehicle.
I will say I used light blue devil radiator flush-only a good 30 or so minutes to help flush out. No more as it becomes corrosive with older gaskets. I have used fuel system cleaner. I believe it was Lucas... I will say I believe they helped clean the injectors but with injectors and many parts they need full cleaning or the soot/build up will occour very quickly as with cleaners the only thing that is cleaned is the injection path not the area around which is where build up starts.
bravo! These are really crucial points and many ppl never knew a lot of them, and many other ppl over the past decade or two were very neglectful of their cars, namely engine oil change interval which was far too long for most types of driving which is hard on cars, namely short trips, traffic jams.
I have started (in the last 3 years) using Millers Oils additives, with great results. EPS ethanol 'neutraliser' for my 2005 MB CLK 200K, and Ecoboost for my diesel Quashqai. The engines run noticeably smoother, are more responsive and pull better. Economy is also improved. I also use engine flush at every third oil change ( each change at 6000km), and Millers oils. I see it as a very cheap insurance to look after the insides of my engines. PS. I have no connection to Millers!
I use bg44k or redline si-1 fuel system cleaner in my car once a year i also use esso supreme 99+ or shell v-power. I also use an intake valve cleaner once a year as my cars engine is gdi.
For European diesel engine owners I can highly recommend Millers Diesel Power Ecomax fuel additive for deep cleaning and maintaining the cleanliness of fuel systems - also for smoother / quieter running. It essentially allows you to use the cheapest diesel and upgrade it to something approaching super / premium-priced diesel for the equivalent of about 1.5-2 pence per litre on top, so a good saving over for branded super diesel. You have to stick with it to get results though, it’s not going to work miracles on one or two tanks.
never buy the first generation anything. Buy a Toyota or Lexus. Never buy new. I like a 10 year old model, with proven reliability, at about 60,000 mikes / 100,000 km. someone took the 30-50% hit on value, just coming off warrenty, and if it is a lemon it will pretty obvious at that point. my theory, a Toyota or lexus, that was badly maintained, at that point would be fairly unusual. Then do all the maintenance as soon as you get it.
Totally agree with not being first in the queue for a new anything and especially not a BMW. Particularly a new model motorcycle. Lots of overcomplicated poorly tested tech, that once out of warranty....
"Never buy first generation anything" - 100% the best advice for reliability. I have never bought a new car, and probably never will, but the warranty usually makes up for any issues that arise. With courtesy cars provided. It's actually a good way to keep maintenance costs lower. But it depreciates massively.
The most unreliable car I have ever owned was a brand new 2005 Nissan Micra it was never away from the dealers for repairs under warranty one new steering wheel after 6 months because the leather began to Peel off the wheel 3 sets off key less entry door locks one new pedal box after it came loose from the bulkhead one alternator I gave up taking it to get all the rattles and squeaks fixed but just 6 months out of warranty and 35.000 miles the rear cracked shaft steel began leaking oil I had fixed out of my own pocket but I went again after 13 months so I tried the car in for I one year old 2008 1.4 pole TDI with 14.000 on the in clock was the Second most reliable car I have ever owned and after 12y and 112.000 miles and only one new battery it was coming up for some big jobs to keep the car going the way a like so I tried it in for my current car a 2015 1.6 diesel Astra j it had 40.miles on it when I got it I has now done 70.000 miles this year i have at to have the brake pads replaced and glow plugs and the expensive AGM battery it is probably the best car I have had for long journeys great fuel consumption and comfortable to ride in but the most reliable car I have ever owned was my father’s Warburg which he bought new in 1975 in orange my dads eyesight began to fall him so he gave the car to me I had for 6y and I took it to 170.000 miles I use the travel all around the country with my job back then in all that time it never let use down once I only had one battery and one dynamo and one set of brakes shoes it still had the original set of 3 points that feed the 3 coils I sold it because it was not the best car for fuel efficiency also the cost of mixing in two stroke oil with the petrol was costly it just goes to show you do not have to pay a lot to get a good reliable car but it is making sure it gets serviced regularly helps a lot
Except none of that really or usually matters in the UK / IRE / much of Europe or anywhere damp! No matter what you do it's always going to be rust and corrosion that kills the car; so what to do to prevent and inevitably have to deal with that to try and keep the car!? That's after most of the sensors have been replaced and trying to live with upholstery, vinyl and plastics deterioration and cracking; it could actually be rubber and plastic so called 'protectors' you've used that have speeded that up, especially if they're solvent / petroleum based, which are all about 'shine' not protection at all!?
@khalidacosta7133 or VW with their emissions, ford with their wet belt, BMW with their cars randomly going on fire etc etc I didn't say those companies were perfect but for reliability Japanese is generally the safer bet.
For some reason a Golf is twice the insurance of my Fiesta. I looked at getting shut of it and getting a Golf, slightly bigger and a better car overall. Insurance was double though.
@@barryphillips7098 what about Hyundai's? I keep hearing that they are reliable. Now i drive a Hyundai Accent from 2007 with LPG conversion and have no problems with it but I'm looking at a Toyota Auris/Corolla or Hyundai i30 (only petrol). Im european so toyota's and especially Honda's are rare where I live
I can tell you the real story about Audi. There's some firm, their truckers deliver their goods all over the Europe but mainly to Germany. And every single work day they send some package (by car) after the trucker, who waits in let's say Munich (400 miles away). They have students and unemployed whom they pay 100 euro in cash for the drive. The car is Audi A4 2.0 TDI which serves just for this jobs. These Audi is sold (and new one takes over) before it's 5 years old with more than 600.000 miles (1,000.000 km) on odometer. And it looks and drives like new, because it's monthly serviced and just highway driven.
There is a simple thing to do firstly buy a vehicle that has a reputation for been reliable as with Toyota's Mazdas or Suzuki's don't waste your money on British or European crap
Hi buddy can you elaborate a little. Same theme, same footage or just not enough variety in topics. I'm eager to please and I have struggled to keep up with one video a day this month so apologize. Also sometimes I do a newer better video and the algorithm will just recommend the older video right after. If you've got some topic ideas I'd love to hear them.
I have a Range Rover Evoque, I can hear it, oh poor man. I change my oil and filter every 5000 miles, I run the car on v power premium diesel and once a year I treat it to some Forte diesel additive. I never thrash the car especially from cold. Pay a little more money out now or a lot more if something goes wrong due to poor maintenance. It pays to do a bit of research on your make and model. My car thanks me for it. Great video.
I would concur with this comment. I have a Disco Sport 2.0 litre Ingenium. I am into my seventh year of ownership having bought it from new. If you are to believe the many online reviews they would give you nightmares. Top tips are, don’t believe the two year servicing intervals recommended by LR . No more than 10k or 12 months oil and filter changes. I use premium fuel not cheap supermarket fuel . Use an in the fuel DPF cleaner every few months.
Reliability is surely simplicity! The less the technology put into a car the less there is to go wrong. Unfortunately, gone are the days when failures were usually due to wear and tear, failures today can more often be caused by a faulty sensor or some other computerized electrical component - nothing to do with age or amount of usage!
I think just common sense and treating a vehicle like a machine and not an appliance to maintain a vehicle.
People have this mindset today of install/buy and forget. Like people not doing proper oil change intervals, or let alone oil changes in the first place.
Just use your noggin.
Get it serviced and inspected.
If you have any doubt over any consumables, replace them.
Understand different noises and what they mean. If you hear or experiencr something weird, address it rather than waiting for something to fully break.
My first car a Ford Fiesta from 2000, 60 horse Diesel 1.8. Never Broke down. Rust killed it with 99.800 km
My second BMW 318ci from 2002, 143 horse had many problems but always made it home or in the next workshop- even only on 3 cylinders- Sold it with 164.000 km
The third car Ford Mondeo from 2011 with 163 horse 2 litre Diesel never broke down- i crashed it in winter with 120.000 km
My fourth an Hyundai i40 sedan from 2012 with 1.7 Diesel 116 horse never broke down i had it for 6 years and rode from 102.000 km to 260.000 km when the diesel particular filter was fully loadet- Sold it then.
My actual car Ford Mondeo from late 2018 2 litre Diesel 200 horse never broke down so far in 2 years
Have had a 2010 Honda Civic for the past 5yrs, got it with 106k miles on the clock, no service history came with it, I’ve put about 55k miles on it since buying it so it’s got about 160k miles on it now, all I’ve ever done to it is oil change (fully synthetic) & filter every 12-14k miles with engine flush, air filter I’ve done twice, cabin filter done once, a new battery, rear brake discs/pads done once about 18months ago, front discs & pads done once a month ago & a drivers side wheel bearing & shock after I hit a massive pothole hard, everything else is original parts including the spark plugs (as far as I know) other than the light bulbs I’ve changed over the years I have always used cheap supermarket fuel, & use RedEx injector cleaner once every 2yrs or so, engine/gearbox runs perfectly except recently the revs at idle dip low, move around on idle after a cold start, throttle body probably needs cleaning & a new set of spark plugs, it’s not so bad since I used injector cleaner 2 weeks ago at twice the recommended concentration, also the wiring harness in the drivers door has broken wires from being opened/closed repeatedly so the electric windows don’t work but other than that it runs sweet, quiet & smooth, the suspension is a little worn but still fine, same with the clutch but it’s never broken down or needed a repair other than the consumables mentioned, handles very well, nippy 1.8L petrol (140bhp), iVTec, half leather interior, well built, sporty looks, can’t really ask for better for the £2100 I paid for it 5yrs ago.
Newer cars are too complicated & temperamental & are made cheaply, headache & your paying silly money to replace simple plastic parts that cost pennies to manufacture, oil leaks, expensive timing chain problems, injectors failing far to soon, it’s like they want people to get sick of fixing cars & catch the bus instead.
14k Miles oil change... Damm soon...
@ I do them myself, usually about 12k miles but my last one was after 18k miles, had a busy year working loads so didn’t have time, it’s a Honda so can take the abuse, no problem, about 15yrs ago I had a friend who had a 1991 Honda Accord, he knew absolutely nothing about cars, only how to drive them, he owned the car for 4yrs & had never opened the bonnet of the car, no oil changes, nothing, just put petrol in it & drove it, never let him down ever, it had 288k miles at the time.
My old 06 2.2 Civic diesel, ran it from 75k miles to 227k miles in 11 years. IT NEVER EVER BROKE DOWN. I serviced it every 12.5k miles and changed the consumbles it needed.
A year later after I sold it, it's had to have an alternator and a radiator. The thing is 18 years old now and still bloody running, used every day by my work colleague. It's also remapped to 190bhp.
What did I replace it with? A 2013 2.2 iDTEC. Hopefully I'll get similar reliability out of that one.
So I agree with you on all the points except one: finding a group that has your model.
Heres why: for the last 4 cars I've owned, I've joined a Facebook group about that car. And mostly they've been helpful and informative. Then I joined two groups for our new Nissan Rogue, and they are both full of people saying that these cars don't last, they are horrible, etc.
But my neighbor has two; a 2009 with 140,000 miles and an 18 with 190,000 miles.
To me, it's all about two things which you teach - maintenance and driving types.
The dealer told me they have had two with engine failures, both people thought that “turbo” meant speed, but with these, it means minimum horsepower.
So, I'd say that we need to be aware that what people say needs to be carefully annualized
Without any intention of advertising, I am very satisfied with Protec fuel additives and cleaners. Have been using a petrol additive that cleans the valves etc of the engine, top job (multipoint injection engine, not direct injection) . Also have been using the "Oxicat" product from the same manufacturer, cleans the entire exhaust system from soot etc - again, top product - a bit on the expensive side this one, but more than worth it. Again, I am not advertising; merely stating my experience with these products.
The most important thing (not covered) is that you should find out if your car has a timing belt and DO NOT MISS THE REPLACEMENT INTERVAL. Save up your money ahead of time if you must, but replace your timing belt on time.
If you are going to get an OBD scanner and if you have an issue and are going to take your car to a mechanic DO NOT clear the codes. The mechanic needs these codes to help figure out what is going on with your car. If you clear them out, that information is lost.
I prefer belts over chains. Yeah you have to replace them but at least you know what's what. With a chain you never know what's gonna happen. I would always change a belt as soon as I got a car as a matter of course.
i've got a tdi 1.6 fabia, i do mostly short journeys, to and from work about 10-15 mins drive, to the shops and go for leisure drives, in winter it barely enough to fully warm up. i do however, give it a good run 3 times a week on faster roads to get the engine properly lubricated and warmed up.
In short: you need to do your own research and put some effort. If you are one of those "buy and forget" people - this video is not for you. You will be better off buying a brand new car.
Yep very true. along with a bit of old skool common sense.
Simple design is what I need. OEMs can keep all this turbo stuff. Give me natural aspiration and a couple more cylinders.
I agree with the OBD2 dongle/apps. Learn what fuel trim means and it will give you insight into what’s happening with your vehicle.
I will say I used light blue devil radiator flush-only a good 30 or so minutes to help flush out. No more as it becomes corrosive with older gaskets. I have used fuel system cleaner. I believe it was Lucas... I will say I believe they helped clean the injectors but with injectors and many parts they need full cleaning or the soot/build up will occour very quickly as with cleaners the only thing that is cleaned is the injection path not the area around which is where build up starts.
bravo! These are really crucial points and many ppl never knew a lot of them, and many other ppl over the past decade or two were very neglectful of their cars, namely engine oil change interval which was far too long for most types of driving which is hard on cars, namely short trips, traffic jams.
I have started (in the last 3 years) using Millers Oils additives, with great results. EPS ethanol 'neutraliser' for my 2005 MB CLK 200K, and Ecoboost for my diesel Quashqai. The engines run noticeably smoother, are more responsive and pull better. Economy is also improved. I also use engine flush at every third oil change ( each change at 6000km), and Millers oils. I see it as a very cheap insurance to look after the insides of my engines. PS. I have no connection to Millers!
I use bg44k or redline si-1 fuel system cleaner in my car once a year i also use esso supreme 99+ or shell v-power. I also use an intake valve cleaner once a year as my cars engine is gdi.
For European diesel engine owners I can highly recommend Millers Diesel Power Ecomax fuel additive for deep cleaning and maintaining the cleanliness of fuel systems - also for smoother / quieter running.
It essentially allows you to use the cheapest diesel and upgrade it to something approaching super / premium-priced diesel for the equivalent of about 1.5-2 pence per litre on top, so a good saving over for branded super diesel.
You have to stick with it to get results though, it’s not going to work miracles on one or two tanks.
Most of it is 2-EHN with what looks like a lubricity modifier. (2-EHN will wreck your pump / inj otherwise). It won't clean your system at all.
@ the last statement is not my experience - but you’re entitled to your opinion.
Great channel here, your content is pumping. Every WRX, CTR, GR, FiST etc owner needs to subscribe
Thank you for your kind words. I'm just amazed people watch these videos, and I'm glad to be helping a few people out there.
Maintenance should be seen as an investment, not an expense.
👍👍
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
you want reliable buy a 2000 era petrol toyota ,,, ignore what the neighbours think of what you drive and be happy.
Engines are like your own cardio system. If you don't research and apply your findings, they will let you down soon or later.
never buy the first generation anything. Buy a Toyota or Lexus. Never buy new. I like a 10 year old model, with proven reliability, at about 60,000 mikes / 100,000 km. someone took the 30-50% hit on value, just coming off warrenty, and if it is a lemon it will pretty obvious at that point. my theory, a Toyota or lexus, that was badly maintained, at that point would be fairly unusual. Then do all the maintenance as soon as you get it.
Totally agree with not being first in the queue for a new anything and especially not a BMW. Particularly a new model motorcycle. Lots of overcomplicated poorly tested tech, that once out of warranty....
"Never buy first generation anything" - 100% the best advice for reliability.
I have never bought a new car, and probably never will, but the warranty usually makes up for any issues that arise. With courtesy cars provided.
It's actually a good way to keep maintenance costs lower. But it depreciates massively.
When should u change oil after buying a used car?
I would do it as soon as possible you know it's done then 👍
As soon as you get it home 👍
The most unreliable car I have ever owned was a brand new 2005 Nissan Micra it was never away from the dealers for repairs under warranty one new steering wheel after 6 months because the leather began to Peel off the wheel 3 sets off key less entry door locks one new pedal box after it came loose from the bulkhead one alternator I gave up taking it to get all the rattles and squeaks fixed but just 6 months out of warranty and 35.000 miles the rear cracked shaft steel began leaking oil I had fixed out of my own pocket but I went again after 13 months so I tried the car in for I one year old 2008 1.4 pole TDI with 14.000 on the in clock was the Second most reliable car I have ever owned and after 12y and 112.000 miles and only one new battery it was coming up for some big jobs to keep the car going the way a like so I tried it in for my current car a 2015 1.6 diesel Astra j it had 40.miles on it when I got it I has now done 70.000 miles this year i have at to have the brake pads replaced and glow plugs and the expensive AGM battery it is probably the best car I have had for long journeys great fuel consumption and comfortable to ride in but the most reliable car I have ever owned was my father’s Warburg which he bought new in 1975 in orange my dads eyesight began to fall him so he gave the car to me I had for 6y and I took it to 170.000 miles I use the travel all around the country with my job back then in all that time it never let use down once I only had one battery and one dynamo and one set of brakes shoes it still had the original set of 3 points that feed the 3 coils I sold it because it was not the best car for fuel efficiency also the cost of mixing in two stroke oil with the petrol was costly it just goes to show you do not have to pay a lot to get a good reliable car but it is making sure it gets serviced regularly helps a lot
Except none of that really or usually matters in the UK / IRE / much of Europe or anywhere damp! No matter what you do it's always going to be rust and corrosion that kills the car; so what to do to prevent and inevitably have to deal with that to try and keep the car!? That's after most of the sensors have been replaced and trying to live with upholstery, vinyl and plastics deterioration and cracking; it could actually be rubber and plastic so called 'protectors' you've used that have speeded that up, especially if they're solvent / petroleum based, which are all about 'shine' not protection at all!?
No additive but service every year. Find a garage you trust and stick with them.
1. Don't buy any overcomplicated techy car
2. Try buying an older car without stupid environmental chocking stuff
3. Buy Japanese
Like a Honda which lied about their defective airbags? Or a Toyota which lied about the sticking accelerator pedals?
Buy honda, Toyota, lexus etc don't be tempted by German rubbish which is designed to fail
Like a Honda which lied about their defective airbags? Or a Toyota which lied about the sticking accelerator pedals?
@khalidacosta7133 or VW with their emissions, ford with their wet belt, BMW with their cars randomly going on fire etc etc I didn't say those companies were perfect but for reliability Japanese is generally the safer bet.
Never use oil additives.
That's the post.
Dont buy a bmw expensive on parts and u need a specialist. By a Vw Golf petrol great cars
For some reason a Golf is twice the insurance of my Fiesta. I looked at getting shut of it and getting a Golf, slightly bigger and a better car overall. Insurance was double though.
Just buy a well maintained older bmw you won’t go wrong make sure it’s over 100k miles
Easy. By an ev
AVOID ALL modern German cars!! Buy Toyota or Honda, avoid these 1.5 turbo models non turbo BEST!!!!
@@barryphillips7098 what about Hyundai's? I keep hearing that they are reliable. Now i drive a Hyundai Accent from 2007 with LPG conversion and have no problems with it but I'm looking at a Toyota Auris/Corolla or Hyundai i30 (only petrol). Im european so toyota's and especially Honda's are rare where I live
I can tell you the real story about Audi. There's some firm, their truckers deliver their goods all over the Europe but mainly to Germany. And every single work day they send some package (by car) after the trucker, who waits in let's say Munich (400 miles away). They have students and unemployed whom they pay 100 euro in cash for the drive. The car is Audi A4 2.0 TDI which serves just for this jobs. These Audi is sold (and new one takes over) before it's 5 years old with more than 600.000 miles (1,000.000 km) on odometer. And it looks and drives like new, because it's monthly serviced and just highway driven.
There is a simple thing to do firstly buy a vehicle that has a reputation for been reliable as with Toyota's Mazdas or Suzuki's don't waste your money on British or European crap
My 1980 mk Austin Metro is ultra reliable, you just show it the key and it fires up instantly 👍
All your videos are the same.
@@rileycasey3801 thanks for watching
Hi buddy can you elaborate a little. Same theme, same footage or just not enough variety in topics. I'm eager to please and I have struggled to keep up with one video a day this month so apologize. Also sometimes I do a newer better video and the algorithm will just recommend the older video right after. If you've got some topic ideas I'd love to hear them.
No they aren't,
Not true